September 2000 Message Board

Sep 1, 2000 - 03:16 - From: Richard S
Title: Re: Heater Controls
Message: Rod, I think the 6 position control was fitted to the 92 year build (Oct 91) but it may have been at the same time as the revised hood (July 91). Mine is April 91 and has the 4 position switch. The 6 position switch includes recirculating (can't remember what the other position is). Anyone out there with a VIN after M8114 (July 91) to N6001 (Oct 91)?

Sep 1, 2000 - 06:44 - From: Steven Matthijssen
Title: heater controls
Message: according to the manual: all '90 and some '91 MY cars are fitted with 4 position control switches, whereas all USA models and other cars as a running change have 6-position controls. The two extra positions are: recirculation and demist.

Sep 1, 2000 - 07:03 - From: Rod Little
Title: Softops
Message: I tried www.softops a little while back and they said they had stopped making them for the M100. ( I wonder if they ever started ? ). They advised contacting Trim Mania 01189 758700 or Auto trim 01189 868470, I never bothered. The expensive Lotus price is because I believe you get a new frame with a new softop ???

Sep 1, 2000 - 07:05 - From: Jason
Title: Overboost
Message: Thanks all, Took it on the A38 to Smiths yesterday, seemed almost back to normal on the run down. They confirmed it was sticking & lubed accordingly. The mechanic that took it out to test came back saying (quote) "F*ck me that's quick!". Now I know why you're always harping on about 1 bar of boost & MBC's. Anyway, back to normal now. Cheers, Jason

Sep 1, 2000 - 07:09 - From: Rod Little
Title: Heater Controls
Message: Mines an August 1st 91' registration and has the 6 positions. I do know that I have the revised roof and door seals, but don't have the VIN number to hand at the minute. On my car its hard to get airflow through the heater unless I have the control in the re-circulate position. So have always wondered how people with the 4 position control manage to clear the windscreen, or get enough hot/cold air into the car ? Perhaps I have something blocking the airflow into my heater system, but the car has always been like this, since 1991 ?

Sep 1, 2000 - 07:12 - From: Rod Little
Title: Overboost
Message: So you cancelled the order for the Elise then Jason :-) Now that you realise just how quick the M100 is.

Sep 1, 2000 - 08:03 - From: jason
Title: Overboost
Message: He he - NO!. I must say I was surprised (scared?) when I overtook a car & all that boost came from nowhere. If I was going to keep it I'd probably have the mod done, it really transforms the performance. I'm convinced the Elise is slower in gear than my elan anyway, but once the warranty is up it's either a TT supercharger or lotus 135/165 mod & CR box (hence a std rather than a VVC). Car should arrive in late September. I'll still talk to you all - or will I be snubbed at Donnington ;)

Sep 1, 2000 - 08:15 - From: Richard
Title: Re: Heater controls
Message: Rod, I have the 4 position switch and I just turn the control to screen and it blasts the screen. I've always been impressed by the power of the fan unit. My recently acquired new lotus support vehicle is a VW Golf GTI Turbo and the fan seems very weak unless on re-circulate especially the A/C, however the brakes are something else and when I change from one to the other I have to be very careful and remember how poor the standard Elan brakes are.

Sep 1, 2000 - 08:22 - From: Richard S
Title: Re: Heater controls
Message: Rod, I forgot to say that the revised hood can be identified by the amount that the material covers the seals on the top of the side windows. The later ones come much further down and cover the seal slit lines which is where is can leak on the older hoods. Lotus also altered the sealing at the joint of the hood to the rear of the side door area above the door release catch again to improve water ingress. I believe that if you want to replace an earlier hood with a later one you have to change the door seals and there is some fettling of the outer door skin.

Sep 1, 2000 - 10:12 - From: Rod Little
Title: OverBoost
Message: Jason, you will be more than welcome at Donnington, and will value your impressions after having owned both cars. Many Elise owners discount the M100 without ever having driven one. I have driven both ( but only on a track ) and cannot say that the standard Elise impressed me. The 111s feels better to me, but still would stick with a good M100. Are you close enough for that meeting at Newark I mentioned above ? I cannot say I am tempted by the Elise, but the Exige is winning me over, and now I am not sure about the future of my Elan. Would love to keep both, but something will have to go :-( I favour keeping the M100 and swapping company car for a Lotus Carlton, but g-f does not like the Carlton and would like me to swap the M100 for an Elise of Exige.

Sep 1, 2000 - 10:23 - From: Craig Diment
Title: Casual Lotus Owners Get Together, this Sunday
Message: There will be a casual get together this Sunday, Sept 3rd in the South West of the UK. The outlook is Sunny and we'll be looking at a foresty style drive with stops for beverages. E-mail Craig.Diment@Virgin.Net for meeting times and places. So come along!!

Sep 1, 2000 - 10:25 - From: Rod Little
Title: Heater Controls ( now brakes etc )
Message: I must have a problem with my heater ducting then, as its hard to get air into the car, even on highest fan setting. Another job for the weekend ! I changed the seals on my doors and A pillar etc a few years back, so worked out I had the later ones. I noticed the seals changed again for the S2's as they are better at the end of the door where the lock is.

Sep 1, 2000 - 14:21 - From: Jason
Title: Seals & overboost.
Message: Down at PS yesterday, one of the mechanics said that you could only get the S2 seals now - apparently much better - but (surprise) still leak. I love the appearance of the exige (orange is stunning), but it's a lot more money than the Elise, much more track orientated; and like you with the Carlton, I'd never get my wife in one! As for the lotus show you can count me in - you can all mock the new motor!

Sep 3, 2000 - 11:49 - From: Ian
Title: various questions...
Message: Was wondering if people could help me with the following little questions. Twice in the last few days I have had what appears to be the engine cutting out under hard acceleration, I say appears because what I get is quite a hard shunt and then my natural reaction is to lift off and it's hard to tell whether the engine was actually cut or not. Anyway... I am assuming this is due to overboost and that the wastegate might have seized (this from my very basic understanding of the workings of turbos). Armed with the knowledge from the write-up on checking errors codes I went to try and establish the exact problem. I found the unit fine and the plug, but I cant actually find where the flashing light is (which I assume to be a little LED somewhere) and as such, when I short the pins as described, I get nothing. Can someone shed some light? Other quick questions, upon the advice of a couple of very helpful people on here, I upgraded the brake discs at the front and the pads to EBC greenstuff. The braking is improved.... but still only just better than awful for a car this quick. Would the next sensible step be to upgrade to steel braided brake lines? The pedal is also very spongy... and if coming down a hill and braking relatively hard (but not an emergency) I get the brake warning light coming on just as I come to a halt. What exactly is this indicative of? Because I had previously assumed that would imply the pads were worn down, but they are brand new... there is a LOT of pedal travel at that point as well. Finally... and I know this is a little contentious (sp?) so can someone recommend good replacement tyres. I don't mind spending on them, just want to know I'm getting the right thing... I have standard UK 15 inch wheels so the Yokohama AVS tyres I saw suggested don't seem to be a possibility as they apparently only do 16 inch minimum.... Sorry about the long post, I really appreciate all the help I get here, and I'd be lost without this board, not to mention dead broke having to pay Lotus service costs to get stuff like a headlamp replaced! Many thanks in advance...

Sep 3, 2000 - 12:18 - From: Rod Little
Title: Engine Light / Brakes / Tyres
Message: Do you get the yellow engine light coming on when you feel the engine problem ? This would be an engine check and would be logged. You then use the process you have been trying, to find what code this engine check was. I always assumed the light you would see, was the engine light on the dash board. My problems with brake pedal travel were solved by new brake fluid and lots of time and effort to bleed the brakes, I did fit braided hoses at the same time though. I have never seen the brake warning light on, and would suggest you check your brake fluid level very soon ! I don't know much about tyres, except they can make a dramatic change to the car. Apparently the Mich that were fitted standard to the UK cars, were specially designed and the main thing they were designed for was low weight. Hence keeping the unsprung weight down.

Sep 3, 2000 - 14:46 - From: Oats
Title: problems about the spare parts
Message: I just got my Elan not so long ago. I really love it, but I got some problem. The Lotus Dealer in Thailand has the financial problem, so they gone. I cannot find the spare parts in my country. I would like to have your suggestion about where can I order the spare parts such as some part of suspension. I will be thankful if you can help me out and please give the the email or http of others lotus dealer that provide the Elan's spare parts Thank you for your times, Oats

Sep 3, 2000 - 14:47 - From: charlie
Title: tyres
Message: lotus recommend the Goodyear F1's (same size) to replace the GS-D eagles, i like them a lot, but they aren't the cheapest. You can get GS+D's still , but they are increasingly hard to find ( which is why i switched to the F1s )

Sep 3, 2000 - 21:36 - From: Doug
Title: Ian
Message: Hey, Ian, the light to watch for is the check engine light and it is a little yellow/orange light in the bottom right of the gauge cluster. It will flash even if there is NO engine trouble code stored as explained in my write-up--likely you are shorting the wrong 2 leads if you do not see a light. The check engine light comes on always steadily when you put the car in the "run" position right before you turn it to the start position--this way you can be sure to see it and know the bulb is not burned out!! To me it is obvious your brake lines need some attention. When is the last time your brake fluid was changed?? If this is a hard question to answer then you need to get it flushed slowly and well just like Rod said. You pay for a lot of fluid and then first have one of the rear brakes bled until *ALL* the old fluid has emptied from the system (and master reservoir) and you see only fresh fluid which will be a different color!! This can take a LONG time! Then you go to the other 3 brake calipers and bleed them until the fluid gets fresh like the other. This is the only way to know you have fresh fluid free of air and water contamination. This should improve the pedal feel and performance! I am not a brake expert but this is the basics of how it is done. You can go to ANY mechanic who is willing to do it right!! Ian, do you have the boost increased? Your symptom sounds like the fuel cut defense for overboosting like you mentioned--this exact phenomena is also experienced when the rev-limiter kicks in!!. If your Elan was going like a rocket at the time then perhaps it was the boost, or you can decide if it was the rev-limiter. Can you get Kumho tires there?? They are actually Korean and are well made and get great reviews. They come in seriously almost ANY size and are an excellent price! I am getting the Kumho Ecsta Supras soon--George got them on his Elan last month and gave them a very good review. Personally I see the GS-Ds as "old tire technology", just like a Macintosh Plus is "old computer technology"--The GS-Ds are surely the EXACT same tire designed more than 10 years ago which cannot be as good as most tires produced today. Sure if you are satisfied with the GS-Ds then pay too much to get some; or you can get a better ride with something else. Not wanting to be a pain about tires, but I just can't see the reasoning for keeping old technology in the face of better stuff. Hope this helps ;-)

Sep 3, 2000 - 22:10 - From: Al Balmer
Title: Cooling fans
Message: Well, it has been a HOT summer in Texas! My elan has been getting hot when I sit at a light with the a/c running. My car has about 66,000 miles and runs great in every other way! Let me tell ya'll what the problem is so that if you have this problem you can save some time and money. I noticed that only one fan was going on so I tested the other fan by running 12v directly to the fan hook up and nothing happened. I then tested the fan leads and did not get conductivity through the non-working fan. I spent 3 hours pulling the fan out of the car and I never want to do that again because the fan is in the worst position. I discovered that the fan has two radio noise suppressers that are wired into the wiring. I clipped the noise suppressers from the wire harness and then checked once again for conductivity and this time I had a closed circuit. I rewired the fan without the noise suppressers and spent another 3 hours putting it back in to the car. One month later I noticed the car getting hot again. I checked the fans and this time the other fan went out! There was no way I was going to pull the other fan! I cut the noise suppressers out of the wire harness and again rewired the fan. All is good and I did not have to remove anything. If your fan is not working and you have checked everything else try cutting the noise suppressers out and rewire, the problem is that the leads from the noise suppresser and the fan burn out at the solder joint. Good luck, I hope this helps.

Sep 4, 2000 - 06:59 - From: Craig Diment
Title: Lotus Outting
Message: To those who missed yesterdays (sunday 3rd Sept) Lotus Owner get together in Wales. We will be holding another casual get-together in the near future some where in the South West of the UK and a preplanned route. If you want to be e-mail well in advance for the next occasion please e-mail me with the e-mail address you want to be contacted at and I'll add you to the list. Please also spread the word to any of your Lotus owning friends who may not have e-mail. Mail me at Craig.Diment@Virgin.Net PS. Who was the in the Green Elan on Caerphilly mountain, didn't you see us trying to wave you down by the hair pin bend! :-)

Sep 4, 2000 - 09:28 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Radiators
Message: I've read numerous complaints about cooling ability and will mention again that I can have aluminum radiators built for the Elan for about $500 per radiator. One and a half inch thick core, aluminum side tanks, increased coolant capacity, drastically increased cooling efficiency. If anyone is seriously interested, I can look into patterning. We already have these set up for the Isuzu cars._ _ _Bill Luton

Sep 4, 2000 - 10:53 - From: Dean
Title: LOG 20, The Glenn, Headlight Motor
Message: Comrades; Had a wonderful time at LOG 20 in Ottawa, and am getting ready to visit the Vintage GP at the Glenn. We will do track day on a new set of tires (Dunlop SP 9000). I have replace the left side headlamp lift on Saturday and did a write up which can be found on my site http://home.att.net/~giacopassid/index.html  The existing write-ups were used as a starting point. It only took me 2 hours to do the whole job.

Sep 4, 2000 - 13:03 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Slick50
Message: Just wondering if any one has any feelings or testimonials related to slick50 or other additives. I am not intending on using it but I am really wondering if that stuff really works and if so, would it wok as well in a turbo. I would think that the higher temps found in the turbo would cause the stuff to have problems. Thanks for your input, Al.

Sep 4, 2000 - 15:42 - From: Steve P
Title: Slick 50
Message: Ahhh, good old Slick 50, it made a huge difference in an old mk1 1256cc Vauxhall Cavalier I bought during my college days with 86,000m (treated with Slick 50) and was still running smoothly with 160,000m on the clock when I sold it. I don't think I'd put it in my Elan though, I'd sooner use a high quality oil and change every 3000m. My experience is that is makes no difference in a decent engine (V6 Mazda), and have read that it can cause higher levels of wear in some engines. The gearbox additive made no difference in the Mazda either, I flushed it out and put some Castrol Syntax in which made a real difference in lowering noise and increasing smoothness. Personally I'd refrain from putting anything foreign in unless it's knackered!

Sep 4, 2000 - 16:12 - From: Joe S.
Title: Slick 50 and other stuff
Message: I have discussed oil with the "owner" of this site many times and have refrained from leaving my personal (and in most cases) lubrication industries inside experiences. I have spend 13 years in the Lubrication business working for the number 1 producer and marketer of motor oil in the US.......and as some of you may know Slick 50 was bought by Quaker State a few years ago, and just last year all of Quaker State and it's subsidiaries were purchased by by my company - Pennzoil. This is not a advertisement for Pennzoil - although it is an excellent product, but more than a warning for other oil supplements. Many companies have been banned by the FTC, and for good reason(s), for making such claims on reduced wear, increased mileage etc..........................In fact, Slick 50 (Pennzoil Quaker State) just paid fines and were forced to change their claims and advertisements. If you want more, I can give it to you, but as an avid Lotus fan and owner, due yourself a favor and stay away from ALL oil enhancers. Oil companies spend millions to formulate a product that balances their base oil with certain additives.................all you do is ruin that balance with one pour of your $15.00 super snake oil. For those who need proof - I have many years of ASTM test data I can send................... Joe S.

Sep 4, 2000 - 16:32 - From: Roy Bailey
Title: Knock Sensor/4k rev cut out
Message: I found the plug for my knock sensor - It was hiding under the wiring loom ! I now seem to have developed a 4000 rpm cut-out ! If I sit in the car at rest and press the accelerator (gas pedal) and take it up to 4000rpm, something takes control and cuts the gas, therefore lowering the revs, until at 3500rpm it tries to raise again (foot still on the pedal)- Sounds like I am rapidly stamping my foot off & on the gas ! I have recently been frigging with my CAS - A coincidence ? Any ideas Anyone ?

Sep 4, 2000 - 16:40 - From: Rod Little
Title: CAS
Message: Yep, sounds like the sort of thing a bad CAS would do.

Sep 4, 2000 - 19:55 - From: Doug
Title: Roy
Message: I second it--it sounds like the CAS to me. Remember that futzing with the CAS directly changes the timing too!!

Sep 4, 2000 - 20:09 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Motor Oil
Message: Well, this is probably a lousy question but here goes nothing, what motor oil are people currently using? I use Castor synthetic 10/30. Al

Sep 4, 2000 - 21:25 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: oops
Message: Well, this is probably a lousy question but here goes nothing, what motor oil are people currently using? I use Castrol synthetic 10/30. Sorry, I did not correct my poor typing on the last e-mail. Al

Sep 5, 2000 - 06:54 - From: Matthew - Colchester UK
Title: Can anyone help
Message: Hi, I have just purchased a 1990 Elan and have the following questions. Firstly on driving the car, under breaking I get a red light with a circle and exclamation mark. I think this means I need to top up the break fluid, if so which do you recommend ?? Secondly being a total fool I didn't read the handbook when I bought it and have driven the car and then turned the ignition off straightaway. As this car is a turbo have I badly damaged it as I have read about carbon build up etc. I am hoping and preying that I have wrecked my new car already. I appreciate any info anyone has Cheers Matthew

Sep 5, 2000 - 10:19 - From: Rod Little
Title: Help for Matthew
Message: Welcome to M100 ownership Matthew ! Certainly get your brakes checked out, I don't think I would have bought a Lotus unless EVERYTHING worked perfectly, as servicing can be quite expensive. As for turning the engine straight off, don't worry about it, having just done it a few times. Mostly I just make sure the last part of my journey is steady without using the turbo and then I take seatbelt off etc etc before turning engine off. its only if I have had a "bit of a session" that I actually leave the engine running for a few minutes. Oh would recommend the first option, as you also want to cool your brakes down, by not using them, but still driving, so cold air gets into them. I wonder what car(s) you owned before the Elan and what made you go for an Elan ?

Sep 5, 2000 - 13:10 - From: charlie
Title: slick 50 and tyres
Message: Long molecules forget it =) just a way to gunk up the car.. Ask them one thing, does the FAA allow them to add them to aircraft engines, and the answers no because any additive to be added to an aircraft engine has to prove without a doubt that it does what it says it does, none of the additives can prove anything other than a bit of showmanship and proof in engines that are replaced almost every use anyway.. As for the GSD's being old technology, that's why GSD's are no longer available and were replaced recently by the GSD+'s and the GSD F1's..

Sep 5, 2000 - 13:12 - From: charlie
Title: oil
Message: i use Mobil 1, but many people say its too thin for the elan these days, and i do get a bit of leakage (and i had all my gaskets replaced recently) very small amount though.

Sep 5, 2000 - 13:15 - From: charlie
Title: warning light
Message: yes its the brake fluid level light. Make sure you read the manual before putting in new fluid though ! As for turning off the engine, don't worry it'll be ok, it just coats the turbo with oil after a long run, so as long as you do it more often than not, it'll be ok. I installed a turbo timer so the car turns itself off after 30secs to 10minutes which ever i want ( which turns out to be very handy if you ever let your battery go flat and you need to charge it, you can just leave the timer running for 10 minutes) of course turbo timers are illegal for use if you leave the car unattended..

Sep 5, 2000 - 16:09 - From: Jason
Title: Message for Mathew
Message: Mathew - you can email me if you have questions. You have nothing to worry about with the turbo - but it's sensible to let the car run for say 20 seconds to get oil in to it before you switch off. The light you're getting means you need a bit more fluid - usually a tiny amount. It was totally flushed about 4 months ago. It's got dot 5 or 5.? fluid in there at the moment. Halfords sell it. You'll notice it makes little to no difference to the braking efficiency but the sensor is extremely sensitive. If in doubt though check it out. For info I used Mobil 1 oil. Hope you enjoy the car as much as I did.

Sep 5, 2000 - 16:13 - From: jason
Title: Message for Rod
Message: Rod, so where did you find the elusive lotus where EVERYTHING worked perfectly ? :). This is surely an oxymoron.

Sep 5, 2000 - 16:33 - From: Roy Bailey
Title: The dreaded CAS
Message: How do I position my CAS so that it performs as it should ? I've read through the CAS repair procedures (All of them) and must be missing something - My CAS 'appears' to be fixed (Little or no movement for adjustment). Sorry to be a pain - I've ordered a new one from US and will need to know that I'm fitting it correctly. Happy Elaning Matthew !

Sep 5, 2000 - 18:44 - From: Rod Little
Title: Honesty
Message: Ok, so I have to admit that at no one time in 8 years of ownership has *everything* worked on my car. But was down at the dealer last week, and Elise owners were bringing in new cars for first services with quite long lists of minor trim type niggles. Oh the joys of Lotus ownership :-) My dealer has also told me stories of actually putting of people buying Elises' and sending them to Rover/Mazda dealers if they have expectations that the Lotus product does not feature. There is no way a car made with a very light curb weight will drive like a Porsche / BMW.

Sep 5, 2000 - 18:53 - From: Rod Little
Title: Jason's' car goes to a new home
Message: Does this mean 114 has a new home Jason ? If you have that nice red car Matthew, we expect you to look after it, and bring it along to the Lotus show at Donnington next spring ! If my wild assumptions are correct Jason, does this mean you are living without a Lotus - are you sleeping and eating ok ? Withdrawal symptoms ?

Sep 6, 2000 - 04:44 - From: jason
Title: Yup - it's gone
Message: .....but I don't want to talk about it.......Matthew bought the car on Sunday, and Monday was one of the nicest day's of the year. I keep telling myself I have 2 new cars coming (hopefully) by the end of the month & getting by with my one remaining car. My neighbour has just been told he's going to have to wait another month for his Elise so I feel better already. I'm really sad to see it go, but having heard stories of carpets being put on garage walls I think it's gone to someone who'll look after it. As for dealers sending people to look at alternatives, it makes good customer care sense - though I guess your average MGF candidate would realise an Elise probably wasn't ideal for them within about 5 mins of a test drive. Having owned & dealt with lotus, my expectations have changed. I expect it to rattle, make noises & have bit's of plastic come loose every now & again. I'll prepare the database now to compile the list of minor niggles to be rectified at the first service :-). Having said that, with the new Elise being announced at Geneva who knows how long I'll keep this for - won't do wonders for the resale though.

Sep 6, 2000 - 04:50 - From: Matthew
Title: Looking for good Dealer/Lotus Specialist
Message: Hi All, Can anyone advise me on a good Lotus dealer/specialist in the Colchester area ?? I will obviously travel but just need advice on who is good and who is not so good etc. Look forward to your views/opinions. Cheers Matthew

Sep 6, 2000 - 04:54 - From: Rod Little
Title: New Elise
Message: I'm also getting itchy feet about changing car, but in my case would love to get rid of the company car. The Exige and then the M250 look great, but what's this about a new Elise ???

Sep 6, 2000 - 05:00 - From: Rod ( Yes, me again ! )
Title: Dealers - UK ( SE )
Message: Matthew, I use Haydon Cars in Salisbury and am very happy with them, believe they have a setup in Cambridge. No idea if they do servicing, and probably the service at the two places would be unrelated, but worth going along for a chat with them maybe ?

Sep 6, 2000 - 05:12 - From: Richard S
Title: The dreaded CAS
Message: Roy - Have you identified which sensor is faulty from the error codes?, if its the Hall Effect sensor then it can be repaired very easily and you won't have to disturb the relationship of the other sensor.

Sep 6, 2000 - 09:39 - From: MartinC
Title: Dealers near Colchester
Message: Matthew, I use a chap called Barry Ely in Leyton near Stratford. He is a Lotus specialist, but not a dealer. He is however very good and I believe more reliable and probably cheaper than a dealer. As an example I have just had a blown turbo; apparently some debris had got into it somehow and scored the inner casing of the turbine and fans making a bit of a mess - incidentally that was what all the blue smoke pouring out of the exhaust was about in the message I posted a while back when I thought the piston seals had gone. A lotus dealer would have not thought twice about putting in a new turbo by saying that it is a sealed unit which cannot be fixed (at a cost of £1,300), however, Barry managed to get it reconditioned for £600 and it is practically new apart from the outer casing. I might just hold off on the next track day at Brands Hatch for a while! To be honest he seems a real enthusiast which always helps. By the way I've just read the review on the M250..........I want one!

Sep 6, 2000 - 10:04 - From: Ray
Title: FM reception
Message: Hi all, My FM reception in my car is really poor and as I’m in the process of upgrading the stereo I thought I’d try and sort this out also. Is this a common problem with the Elans and can it be fixed with a signal booster or do I have to consider replacing the aerial. Any Ideas?

Sep 6, 2000 - 10:12 - From: Ray
Title: Dealers
Message: Mathew I bought my Elan in Cambridge and the previous owner had been taking it to a Lotus specialist called GST Performance (01638 742946) who he recommended as being good/reasonably priced.

Sep 6, 2000 - 11:27 - From: jason
Title: new elise
Message: It's a strong rumour at the moment. I had a chat with someone recently (I'd consider a good source) who suggested that Geneva was the realistic announcement date. As the VX is doing so well in the reviews, (effectively an elise 2 with all the mods improving it over the original - eg better roof, alloy parts etc), lotus need to do something with the elise. Rumour is of a longer, wider (undoubtably heavier) car, possibly with the 2.0litre rover KV6. This would create a different type of car, and I don't believe they could make it lighter than the current car (moving it nearer to the 250 concept, or the Noble elise equivalent). This moves it away from the elise concept (I hope this is wrong), but they need something new. Geneva may turn out to be a restyled car, with styling more akin to the M250 - ie lighting, more angular etc. I think it's certain something will happen, it's just case of what. My ideal would be something like the elise (eg minimalist) with honda power.........best news of the week - my car goes in to production next week, ready for collection in 3!!!!!!!

Sep 6, 2000 - 11:32 - From: Rod Little
Title: FM Reception
Message: I think the radio is poor and the car is plastic. The bigger the bit of metal the more radio waves you receive. Don't think there is much you can do about it. But maybe try some sort of booster, however note that you will probably also boost unwanted noise at the same time.

Sep 6, 2000 - 12:51 - From: Peter Seow
Title: Message to Oats
Message: Hi this is Peter from Singapore. I drove up from S'pore to Thailand (phucket etc) last year wow what a stir the elan caused everybody what to look at it. It's not that hard to get spares in Thailand if you know the spring force, you could have them custom made (the thai people are excellent at that) I can give you the shop list some parts could be gotten from s'pore ... you can email to me.

Sep 6, 2000 - 18:45 - From: Rod
Title: Trax2000 Silverstone Sunday
Message: Anyone going to Silverstone this Sunday ? I have secured tickets and some limited track time.

Sep 6, 2000 - 19:26 - From: George
Title: Look at the appreciation.
Message: Looks like our Elans are on its way for extremely appreciation in price: I just found this black on on the net. Check out the price: http://www.dupontregistry.com/display.taf?car=12865&_UserReference=27A10550F564F3F539B6D1B1 

Sep 6, 2000 - 20:31 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: You must be joking!
Message: At 714 miles this car has never provided any body any type of fun! With that type of mileage I would think that is a minus unless you are a museum and never plan on driving it. Al

Sep 6, 2000 - 21:42 - From: Doug
Title: 714 mile Elan
Message: What a dull owner--with that type of usage he should just give it away to someone who will use it! Unless it has been actually "properly stored" I agree with Al (Doc F) about it being a drawback--look for tires with cracking and flat spots, gummed up oil in the engine, rust in the coolant system and fuel system, cracking and leaking seals, frozen wastegate parts, etc.

Sep 6, 2000 - 23:04 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: museum pieces?
Message: I always have a hard time understanding why people buy cars and then store then for years only taking them out when the sun it at the right angle in the sky and the humidity is "perfect". You pay all that money for a car DRIVE IT! Life it too short and 90% of all cars are bad investments for your money. Think of what that fellow could have gained in interest at the back alone on $40,000.00 for 1991 until now. I hope I am not preaching to the masses but the Elan is a car that should be enjoyed, so DRIVE them. I realize that I am spoiled in Texas because I can drive mine year round without allot of the bad weather elsewhere.

Sep 6, 2000 - 23:36 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Wheels
Message: Does any one out there know where I can find Fondmetal rims? I would like to find a dealer in the US but the UK may work. Please let me know, I have found some wheels that I want but now just have to locate a dealer. Al

Sep 7, 2000 - 07:29 - From: Steve
Title: Re:wheels
Message: Fondmetal have a web page at http://www.fondmetal.com/english/homepage.htm  with a contact facility. May be worth asking them for your nearest dealer.

Sep 7, 2000 - 10:25 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: off set
Message: ok ya'll, I need some help form the experts. I have found my wheels (Fondmetal 5800) and I am ready to order but they only come with a 38 off set! Does anybody have any experience with these wheels or do you think that off set will work? Let me know your thoughts. Al

Sep 7, 2000 - 14:56 - From: Rod
Title: Offset
Message: Personally I would want something with an offset *much* closer to the standard wheels on the car. I would also check on the weight, as unsprung weight is rather important to how the car will drive. See Doug's write up on wheels on this web site.

Sep 8, 2000 - 10:00 - From: George Swetland
Title: British Car Day, 10/1 Bonsall
Message: The Plan... This could be a fun Lotus weekend with lots of driving. We'd like to meet early (08:30-9:00) in San Juan Capistrano at Sarducci's at the Capistrano Depot on Verdugo for breakfast. From there we head up Ortega Hwy.(twisty and tight) to Lake Elsinore. I-15 south will get us to Bonsall and the car meet. You can see most everything at Fairall Farms in a couple of hours or so... From here we can head south to Julian for an early dinner and world famous Apple (American?) Pie ("This one time, at Band Camp..."). Buffy and I did this run on the Laverda over labor day. From our place at the top of Ortega Hwy, round trip to Julian and back is 160 miles, a perfect day run. We hope to see some LA Elans join us! For more and directions to breakfast reply to Pointman@mail.direcpc.com. George & Buffy Swetland

Sep 8, 2000 - 11:35 - From: Raja Patel
Title: Interior Light ON
Message: Last night on my way home I actually used the interior light and I couldn't get it to turn of. Anyone had this problem before. Both the lights are always on now no matter which position the switch is in.

Sep 8, 2000 - 11:42 - From: Scott
Title: Interior lights
Message: 3 ways to turn on the lights. The first is the most obvious. By opening the doors, the lights go on and should go off when the doors close. The second is using the toggle switches on the rear view mirror. The 3rd, and least obvious, is the switch used for the headlights. By pulling on this knob/switch, you turn on the interior lights, until the knob/switch is pushed back in. Many posters here have reported a previous owner pulling the interior light fuse because they could not figure out how to turn off the lights. I bet this is your problem. Later -Scott

Sep 8, 2000 - 12:51 - From: Doug
Title: Interior Lights
Message: Raja, sounds like a problem with the headlight/interior switch that needs to be pushed in; if there is a switch problem then you may need to pull the fuse as Scott recommended. Another trick to turn the lights off is to put the little rear view switch in the middle, between the two positions of the switch--this may work too.

Sep 8, 2000 - 14:03 - From: Joel
Title: 3 weeks and counting to GGLC Thunderhill Track Day!
Message: Yes, the clock is ticking--maybe even a bit faster now--as we approach a full day of on-track fun at Thunderhill (about 1 hour N. of SAC city). The Date is Friday, September 29, and the cost, including a dinner/chalk board session Thursday pm followed by track day and lunch on Friday is a very reasonable $215. All info, schedules and a downloadable entry form are available on the Golden Gate Lotus Club web site . CLOSING DATE FOR ENTRIES IS FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 15--so the time to act is NOW! As I have said before, it would be great to have an M100 "presence" there. I'll be driving up Thursday (28th), leaving the bay area around 2-3 pm, and will stay in Willows (about 5 miles from the track). Anyone interested in a caravan? Joel

Sep 8, 2000 - 14:33 - From: Joel
Title: GGLC web site
Message: Re: message above-in case you don't know, the GGLC web address is - www.gglotus.org  - sorry that did not make it in the last message. Joel

Sep 8, 2000 - 14:37 - From: Gary
Title: Lowering the car
Message: I keep reading about replacing the Elan wheels with larger diameter wheels ...in part to fill in the over sized gap between the wheel and the body. Has any one tried lowering the car? Either new springs, cut springs, or even with spring compressors, we could lower the car by an inch...make it look better, lower the center of gravity, and be 2 inches lower than a Porsche Boxster!.

Sep 8, 2000 - 16:05 - From: George
Title: Re: lowering the car
Message: Gary, what are you thinking? Cutting the springs??? :-) Nah, personally, I do not think modifying springs on the Elan is a great way to go. The Elan's suspension sys. is set for extremely high handling limits already; doing anything else would be overdone in my opinion. By getting stiffer springs, you will no doubt get a much harsher ride and more bump-steer. 2" lower than the Boxster? Not necessary. The Elan is low enough as is. Any lower than the current clearance, you will be scraping your front bumper on any small incline. Just remember that you will always look better when you blow away those awful prick-o-mobiles at any stop light and on any turn. By the way, chicks dig Elans more than the Boxsters. ;-)

Sep 8, 2000 - 17:04 - From: Doug
Title: Wheel Size
Message: Gary, even with larger wheels you end up getting smaller height tires so the total circumference stays the same--this will not change the wheel well gap! You could get higher profile tires with any size wheel to accomplish this but it would change the drive gearing and the speedo. You CAN get adjustable shocks/springs and then change the ride height according to if you are doing street or track driving.

Sep 8, 2000 - 18:55 - From: Rod
Title: Lowering
Message: Don't do it ! The Elan only has a 5" clearance in standard trim, and as Doug says, if you add bigger wheels then you should go for skinny rubber ( so speedo reads roughly correct and handling stays ok ). I would love mine to really look stuck to the ground, but I already have troubles with town driving and car parks etc.

Sep 9, 2000 - 10:00 - From: Ray
Title: Amps in boot
Message: Has anyone got any tips for mounting an amplifier in the boot as the panel between the boot and the hood storage compartment is not very flat. It's has two flat surfaces but they are only about 7" wide.

Sep 9, 2000 - 10:49 - From: Rod
Title: Audio
Message: I have not done it yet, but think best place for amp would be behind the seats. Either just a vertical mounting, or a custom box behind each seat, for rear speakers/sub and also amp(s). Routing cables into the boot would be a pain ( I installed my autochanger in the boot, and just getting the cable through for that was fun ).

Sep 9, 2000 - 15:34 - From: will
Title: amps
Message: in my opinion, mounting an amp in the boot is going to be a pain. to start. the thickness of the rca cable is enough to make running it through the center console difficult. and another reason is that amps get extremely hot. so when you put the top down it will probably melt the rear window. i am now on my third setup. i hope this is the key to my music problems. i am pushing eight hundred watts through two amps. i have one amp and the crossover under the passenger seat, and the other amp under the driver's seat. my sub's are mounted behind each seat. they are ten inch mtx blue thunder's. it sounds pretty good now. but i know i will change my mind. i am having separates mounted in the doors. i warned the installers about the notorious orange clip. so i hope things go well. oh before i forget. i ran the the rca's under the carpet. so you can't see them. it was pretty easy. i am planning on changing the interior of the car soon. so i think the sound system set up will change. this car is such a challenge. i love it.

Sep 10, 2000 - 13:44 - From: Roy Bailey
Title: Biggo Problemo
Message: I have a big problem. Is anyone here running their elan on Mobile 1 ? If so, what's your oil pressure like ? I just put some in mine after changing a head gasket and on start-up the pressure is fine (5Bar), after a while the pressure gradually decreases until, eventually, the oil light comes on !! I will try different oil first, but I may have to drop my sump to check out the suction strainer and relief valve. Richard - Yes my engine fault is pointing to hall effect sensor (Code 41), but, I've fixed it a couple of times already ! Am I fitting it back incorrectly ? I have a new one on order from the states - Is there a 'special' way to fit it ? They look unmovable (ie: fixed in their fit position) One day I'll get everything to work ! Matthew - I have found that Haydon are good people to deal with.

Sep 10, 2000 - 15:45 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Biggo Problem
Message: I do not think your problem is the oil! It sounds like you have some blockage in the oil way or at the pump. Of course you check for any leaks, right? Question, when you removed the old gasket did you have to scrape it off the block? If yes, maybe some of the old gasket feel down the oil ways, just an idea. Al

Sep 10, 2000 - 21:23 - From: Tony D
Title: ENGINE SWAP
Message: I own a 91 isuzu impulse xs (n/a) and am swapping for an RS turbo. What other modifications can i make once i install the motor to get some extra hp? Anyone know where i can get an isuzu-lotus valve cover? Thanks

Sep 11, 2000 - 05:17 - From: Jason
Title: Mobil 1
Message: Roy, It wont be the "oil" causing the problem - I ran mobil 1 all the time in the car. The only common problem with Mobil 1 is it's so thin you might get a little leakage from the plug on the side of the block - ie the seals can't cope (perishing rubber & early 90's tolerances). Look at the pump or the sump filter.

Sep 11, 2000 - 07:37 - From: Richard S
Title: CAS
Message: Roy - I removed the cover from the CAS and removed the Hall Effect sensor leaving everything else in-situ, before removing the sensor I marked it on both flanges in 2 places with white paint and just realigned them when refitting. The holes are circular and there is some limited movement. As long as the rotating vane passes through the slots in the sensor it should be O.K, I'm not sure how position sensitive this sensor is relative to the cam angle, but there is very little margin of movement and unless you remove the whole CAS assembly (housing, reluctor disc, both sensors) you shouldn't have disturbed the assembly to camshaft setting.

Sep 11, 2000 - 07:45 - From: Steve
Title: Carbon residues
Message: Since installing a bypass valve and MBC the spark plugs are carboning up v. quickly as well as the tail pipe. Does any one have any similar experiences or is this a coincidence? The MBC mod is defiantly worth it, at approx £20.00 with a standard valve from the Manchester valve company, with acceleration beyond expectations.

Sep 11, 2000 - 11:08 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Steve
Message: Sounds like you are not getting complete combustion and running a little rich

Sep 11, 2000 - 14:03 - From: Steve
Title: Spark Plugs
Message: In the Spark plug replacement write up the initial gap stated for NGK BKR6E's is 1.143mm. This then changes to 1.4mm further on? The Owners Handbook (UK) states a gap of 0.8mm for these plugs? Does any body know which is the correct figure? mine are currently at 0.8mm.

Sep 11, 2000 - 15:51 - From: Joe S.
Title: Mobil 1 too thin ??????????
Message: Get a grip - all U.S. and now international (ILSAC) motor oils have to meet certain vis requirements for certain vis grades.........ie........if you have a 10w-30 you have a 10w-30........regardless of what company, base oils and additives you use. There a many myths with oils and in particular synthetics being too thin, but it's just that, a myth. HOWEVER........so that all know, synthetics do offer better low temp. pumpability, which makes the likes of Mobil 1 (and other good synthetics) flow at low temps without the aid of low temp. pour enhancers (additives) but that does not mean it's too thin, it just does not gel like conventional (hydrotreated) mineral base oils. When new, and oils are heated in the engine for the first couple of times, you may see small drop in pressure, but this is very common in most oils. Viscosity improvers (which makes a 10wt. oil have the vis of a 30wt. oil at 210f) takes a while for the polymers to expand and to slow the thinning process - Hence a multi-grade engine oil. But do not be fooled...........all of this is regulated by the SAE, ASTM, and ILSAC............and a 10w-30 is just that. A 10w-30. Joe S.

Sep 11, 2000 - 16:10 - From: Andy V
Title: Replacement M100 wanted
Message: It's time now for me to get a replacement set of wheels, and what better to replace my '91 M100 with another M100! I'm looking at a late S2 in the darker blue colour (Steel Blue or Azure Blue? Someone please tell me what the darkest one is). I need a low miler, since mine's about to clock 60,000 miles. A good price will be paid for decent condition, and it must be located somewhere in the UK. A/C and full leather interior are preferable. Cheers, AV

Sep 11, 2000 - 21:24 - From: George
Title: oil
Message: Since lots of us have been talking about oil, I though I would share some of my favorite brands of oil. I have tried everything out there (Include additives), trust me. So far, I like two of them: Castro Syntec and Royal Purple. Both are systhetic oils. Also, I run 5w/50 in my car. So far, I really think these two are the best out there.

Sep 11, 2000 - 23:30 - From: Brian MDB
Title: biggo problemo
Message: Roy, it sounds like your oil pressure drops as the engine warms-up ? You've said that the Head Gasket has been replaced, was the Cylinder Head Torqued down properly? And have you checked the Torque figures again after the engine has been run and allowed to cool completely ? Is the oil disappearing either outside the engine or into the water system? How far was the engine dismantled ?

Sep 12, 2000 - 10:28 - From: Ian
Title: Theoretical Question
Message: How difficult would it be to disconnect the speedo cable so as to avoid exceeding the limit on a limited mileage insurance policy?

Sep 12, 2000 - 11:39 - From: Docm Fizzix
Title: Theoretical Question
Message: Theoretical I think it would be better to get a new insurance policy

Sep 12, 2000 - 14:22 - From: Raja Patel
Title: Interior Lights
Message: Thanks Scott and Doug. Scott you were correct I had accidentally pulled the headlight switch out and remarkably when I pushed it in the lights went out. Doug I had rigged the switches on the mirror in the middle to keep the light from draining the battery..

Sep 12, 2000 - 16:00 - From: Roy Bailey
Title: Biggo Problemo
Message: Brian - I took the head off, cleaned everything up and put it all back how I found it, except with a new head gasket. I torqued the head to the specified value, then after a couple of runs, I re-torqued the head. I will first check the oil pump relief valve to ensure it hasn't gunked up and then, if I don't find anything there, I'll drop the sump to check the suction strainer. I have checked all around the engine for signs of leaks, and believe it or not, I don't have any ! (Externally that is !). The only place it could possibly be going after checking that lot is INTERNALLY ! I think you guys have quoshed all my fears on Mobil 1 oil being too thin !

Sep 13, 2000 - 04:13 - From: Ian
Title: Fuel
Message: Given my question regarding speedo cables obviously didn't go down too well, let me ask a more topical question. Is it possible for a 1990 UK spec Elan to use LRP? Given that is apparently all that is left in London at the moment, normally I just put regular unleaded in, but as I understand it, the original Elan has no catalytic converter and so should be able to use LRP. Or am I seriously mistaken?

Sep 13, 2000 - 06:15 - From: Craig Diment
Title: Lotus Car Owners Get Together, South UK
Message: We have now set up a new web site to carry on the Lotus Car Owners get together Southrun. Visit the site now and spread the word. http://www.southrun.co.uk 

Sep 13, 2000 - 07:06 - From: Rod
Title: LRP In Elan
Message: Certainly if you do have Cats then its a very bad idea to put LRP in the tank. However as you say, earlier Elans did not have Cats, the law changed after J-reg cars, however cats are fitted on some 1991/2 cars. I was concerned to see on another board I read that there may be other things that LRP could mess up though. A Lambda sensor was mentioned for instance. I am not sure what sensors are fitted that might be affected on the Elan though. I'm staying at home, rather than risk any damage to my car.

Sep 13, 2000 - 07:16 - From: Richard A Clifton
Title: Saving money
Message: Reading the post from Martin C about using specialists rather than dealers prompts me to post a similar tale. London Lotus Centre said that the Turbo Wastegate Shaft was broken and, as Lotus didn't list the part separately, would mean a new 1200 quid turbo plus fitting plus VAT. I took the car to Chris Foulds who removed the offending part, had a new one made at a local engineering firm and bob's yer uncle. FOURTEEN POUNDS PLUS A BIT OF LABOUR. Makes yer think, dunnit?

Sep 13, 2000 - 07:57 - From: Steve P
Title: LRP
Message: I'm putting LRP in my S1 Elan. It runs well, and I can't see why there should be any problems as the car was set-up to run on both unleaded and 4 star. No CATS or sensors in the euro. S1 exhaust system :-) I've never seen more classic cars on the roads! Guess everyone had the same idea when the unleaded dried up, what a country, maybe the next step is to convert our UK Elans to L.P.G. ?!!

Sep 13, 2000 - 08:07 - From: George
Title: Excuse my ignorance..
Message: Just curious, what is LRP? Does it stand for Lead Rated Petroleum?

Sep 13, 2000 - 08:57 - From: Richard A Clifton
Title: ****
Message: I have been assured on a number of occasions over the last ten years that the Elan will take either 4* or unleaded. I will use 4* if needs be.

Sep 13, 2000 - 09:00 - From: Richard A Clifton
Title: LRP
Message: Lead Replacement Petrol

Sep 13, 2000 - 09:44 - From: Ian H
Title: Rear Brake Caliper
Message: Can anyone out there help. I am in need of a new piston for my rear caliper but I cannot find one anywhere. The rear caliper has a clutch mechanism that adjusts itself to keep the handbrake working (this has collapsed). However this does not effect the normal braking so I am OK until my MOT. Apparently this is a common problem with the Elan and parts are non existent in the UK. The rear brake calipers are from a Pontiac does anyone know if there is any of these parts about. Please. As for LRP I use about once in every 3 tanks full and have never had any problems. Thanks Ian.

Sep 13, 2000 - 10:14 - From: Richard A Clifton
Title: Rear Caliper Pistons
Message: My usual brake part supplier (Lee at www.classicbrakes.co.uk ) couldn't source these earlier this year when I needed them and I ended up having to get new calipers from Lotus. You could try him to see if he has now found some.

Sep 13, 2000 - 17:12 - From: Dean
Title: M100 at the Glenn
Message: I took my M100 out on the Lotus Ltd. track day at Watkins Glenn. I was the only one to take the car on the track of three M100's in the coral. Kyle is didn't run his M100, he drove the pace car so the rest of us could run. Some notes: I think 42 psi on new Dunlop SP 9000's was a bit too high. The internals of the muffler went bad on the way up to the Glenn. Intermittently things shifted so I couldn't pull full power at all times. Feathering the throttle on the up hill "S" curves made the rear end a bit squirrelly, but not bad. I was running with a Europa and a 7 in the last of three sessions. They admitted that they could keep with me but not do anything more. Ignoring the question of driving ability I think it means that I had a greater reserves of power than they did. I did the track session in 3rd gear except for one brief attempt at 4th in the back straight leading to the "buss stop". Wow what a deal for $5

Sep 13, 2000 - 19:04 - From: Roger
Title: Header tank hose
Message: Hello all, I have to replace the hose that comes from my header tank it began to leak. Haven't seen a hose like this before it has a flare in it so that it will fit the header tank. Does anyone know of a replacement?. Thanks in advance for any help. regards Roger

Sep 14, 2000 - 04:27 - From: Ian H
Title: Header Tank
Message: My header tanked cracked where the pipe joined so I had to replace it. I obviously could not run the car until it was sorted so I was lucky enough to find that a Vauxhall Nova has exactly the same header tank. I am not sure if the hose is exactly the same but, it is worth a look at your local scrap yard as I got my header tank for 5UKP, which came with half the hose as they just cut it. Hope this helps. Ian.

Sep 14, 2000 - 10:41 - From: George & Buffy
Title: British Car Day, Julian Pie dash-10/1
Message: Just over two weeks to go! We have four Elans coming so far, what's' yer excuse? We will meet early (08:30-9:00) in San Juan Capistrano at Sarducci's at the Capistrano Depot on Verdugo for breakfast. From there we head up Ortega Hwy (twisty and tight) to Lake Elsinore. I-15 south will get us to Bonsall and the car meet. You can see most everything at Fairall Farms in a couple of hours or so... From here we head south to Julian for an early dinner and world famous Julian apple pie. Buffy and I did this run on the Laverda over labor day. From Lake Elsinore to Julian and back is 160 miles, a perfect day run. (Yes, its a long way from Santa Monica, but you guys need to get out in the country more often ;-)! We hope to see some of the LA Elans join us! Precise directions to breakfast will follow. If your arse can handle an all day drive, reply to Pointman@mail.direcpc.com.

Sep 14, 2000 - 15:49 - From: charlie
Title: mobil 1
Message: ok so being too thin is a myth then which is something i'm glad to hear because I keep getting people telling me on alt.cars.lotus to switch from mobil 1 because of this and i don't want too. Your oil pressure will be lower when you run Mobil 1 (amongst others presumably).

Sep 14, 2000 - 22:28 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Red Line
Message: Ok ya'll, as I have said before it has been one hot summer in Texas! I drained my coolant and followed Doug's suggestion on his coolant page. I tried adding Red Line Water Cooler to my coolant mixture and I want to tell you that it really did appear to work! The biggest thing I noticed is that it takes a long time for the temp needle to rise when I am in stop traffic, in fact it has NEVER gotten to the 3/4 mark since I have added Red Line. I will let you know if things change. Al

Sep 15, 2000 - 00:56 - From: Joel
Title: Clunk/Clunk ?
Message: I'm trying to help a friend, David, diagnose his sick M100, and thought I would check if anyone has experienced similar symptoms. With about 38,000 miles on the clock, the car, which is now a daily driver, suddenly started making a rather loud clunk/clunk sound which is most noticeable after slowing down--just at the end of the braking cycle. The sound is definitely coming from the front, but the brakes themselves, CV joints and differential don't seem to be at fault. You sometimes hear the noise when turning (slowly), like into a driveway, and over some bumps. On first inspection, jacked up/wheel off, the suspension mounting points seem secure, but I wonder if there could be something not obvious that happens when the suspension is loaded and then has to handle the load transfer from a braking transient. Sure would like to hear if there's any similar experience and/or ideas out there? Joel

Sep 15, 2000 - 01:46 - From: Doug
Title: Clunk
Message: Joel, my clunk was the front anti-roll bar ball joint coming apart!! I'd look at these and the bar pivot points too. Other than that you should listen real careful as he drives it slowly to pinpoint the origin area of the sound. Need more info to suggest other things--how about engine mount points or a loose suspension bolt?

Sep 15, 2000 - 03:45 - From: George
Title: Clunk
Message: I had that clunk thing before. Does your friend's car has an alarm system installed? My clunk was because the horn of alarm system that was shaken loose. After tightened it, the clunk is gone.

Sep 15, 2000 - 05:10 - From: Richard S
Title: Clunk
Message: I had a clunk when reversing and braking which turned out to be one half of one the front brake pads had come unstuck from the metal mounting plate.

Sep 15, 2000 - 14:57 - From: will
Title: intercoolers
Message: I have a question about intercoolers. Why is the intercooler on the elan soooooo small? I see other turbo cars theirs are really big. and are there any suggestions about adding a larger one. cool air mixed with fuel means more horsepower.

Sep 15, 2000 - 17:39 - From: Rod
Title: Intercooler
Message: Wow, you mean I have had an intercooler all this while and didn't even know it ! Where is it located Will ?

Sep 15, 2000 - 17:49 - From: George
Title: intercooler
Message: Will, the reason why the intercooler is so small is because that the available space for it in the engine compartment is really limited. I've been wondering if I could find a bigger one myself, we should do a little research on that. Rod, the intercooler is located in the very front of the car on the driver's side. Hummm, when I say driver's side that means left for me. For the UK RHD, I am not too sure which side it is. But it's way up front located just behind the grill.

Sep 15, 2000 - 18:02 - From: Rod
Title: Intercooler
Message: And here was me thinking it was the air con rad.

Sep 15, 2000 - 18:20 - From: Alan
Title: Trackday at Croft 26th Oct 2000
Message: North Yorks Lotus Owners Club [uk] are hoping to run a track day at Croft on above date. Great track, easy to get to, just off A1 near Darlington. Good mix of Lotus and other interesting motors expected, just need a few more entries to make it viable. Come and meet a bunch of real enthusiasts, with plenty of track day first-timers! Cost £90 for the full day, if interested mail me, alanaqs@aol.com At least 3 M100's promised among the Elises, Caterham and classic Lotuses. Other makes welcome.

Sep 15, 2000 - 23:43 - From: Joel
Title: intercooler + clunk
Message: Rod's reference on the "intercooler" may stem from the fact that the official, and correct, name for this component is a Charge Cooler. A fact better known in the UK than on this side of the pond. Thanks all for the suggestions on what to look for re: David's clunk--I will be checking the car out more closely this weekend and, hopefully, will come up with some answers to pass along.

Sep 16, 2000 - 04:54 - From: Peter Seow
Title: Help!
Message: This isn't an elan input... but I can't find much boards on mercedes . My 1974 benz almost stalls on second gear ... like there is no fuel... any help or any boards you know ....thanks.

Sep 17, 2000 - 11:22 - From: Doc Fizix
Title: Boost MBC
Message: I ordered the MBC that Top End sells. I had a self made valve but I like the looks of the one from Top End. It really hooks up nice and is much easier to adjust. You get a lot "finer" control of your setting with the commercial version. Here is my question, the people at Top End told me that I should disconnect my vacuum solenoid, it is the little round sensor that the vacuum line from the air filter box goes to; it has a clear resin top. Did anyone disconnect theirs? and if so, do you know what this does, or why they told me to disconnect it? Al

Sep 17, 2000 - 11:45 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Boost MBC
Message: Please refer to my above message. After doing some research I have found that the part I mentioned to disconnect is only found on US turbo cars, therefore it probably has something to do with emissions. let me know more if you know about this part. Al

Sep 17, 2000 - 18:09 - From: Barry Berman
Title: Directions/Address for Bonsall 10/1
Message: George/Buffy, could you please up directions and address information for the meeting place for breakfast? I like probably many others don't know where any of these places are. Heck, I had to look up where San Juan Capistrano;) Anyway, I plan on attending, just need to know how to get there. Barry.

Sep 18, 2000 - 11:13 - From: George & Buffy Swetland
Title: Bonsall 10/1 Julian Pie Run
Message: Directions to the start as follows. Take I-5 south towards San Diego. Exit in San Juan Capistrano at Hwy 74. Go Right to 'T', this is 'Camino Capistrano', go Left. The first light is Verdugo. At Verdugo, go right. Verdugo dead ends at the railroad tracks, Sarduccis' is on your right. Park either in the public parking structure on the left, or the lot to your right. We will gather and begin breakfast between 08:30 and 09:00 am. Please come fully gassed up! Bring lots of sun block! If you come late, and we are gone, head east up Hwy 74, to the I-15, and then south to Bonsall. Exit at Bonsall, and go right to Fairall Farms, look for the signs to British Car Day. If you get lost, call 714-319-1130 which will be my cell phone. See you there! Please RSVP to this E-mail address as Tom will be setting up tables for us at the restaurant.

Sep 18, 2000 - 12:00 - From: Matthew Taylor
Title: Carbon Steering Wheels
Message: Hi, I have just taken delivery of a carbon fibre steering wheel to reduce all that excess weight that the Elan has !! It cost me £550 and really looks the mutts nuts (if you pardon the expression). It obviously is very light but looks a lot better than the standard Lotus number and also weighs a lot less !! I just wanted to find out if anyone is interested in such an item as they make a big difference to looks and style. If your interested I can send you pictures etc from the company that supplied me. Matt - Colchester UK

Sep 18, 2000 - 13:34 - From: Steve
Title: Recommendations?
Message: On a chance meeting another Elan owner recommended a Julian of J&B Autos in Beeston Nottingham for Elan repairs. Apparently he specializes in race preparing Elise's! Does anybody else have any experiences with this outfit?

Sep 18, 2000 - 17:28 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: MUTTS NUTS
Message: "MUTTS NUTS" That's a new one! I guess that means it looks good, right? Has any one replaced a steering wheel on a U.S. Elan? I am looking at a Momo wheel but worry about the airbag and disconnecting it. Al

Sep 18, 2000 - 18:33 - From: George
Title: steering wheel.
Message: I believe Charlie has his steering wheels replaced with a Momo one. It does look good. However, I am not too sure about replacing it. One, knowing how hard everyone drive their Elans, I would personally want that airbag in front of me as an added protection. Also, I think there is some kind of federal regulation against that modification (blah blah blah)... :-)

Sep 18, 2000 - 19:03 - From: will
Title: intercooler
Message: there is a guy here is will to manufacture the intercooler for me. he is a little expensive though. i trust him. we is one of the fastest four-bangers in the u.s. his quarter mile time is around the 9 sec area. i will find out how much.

Sep 18, 2000 - 19:15 - From: Joel
Title: clunk resolved!
Message: Well, Doug had it almost right. The clunk coming from the front of David's M100 was a cry for help--it seems that one of the Grade 8 bolts holding the subframe to the chassis had gone missing! Hard to believe that this almost 4 inch long, about 7/16 diameter bolt, that helps locate the subframe and threads into the chassis, could work its way free. Not only that, but most of the other bolts near by were way below their torque spec (55 ft-lb); and yet another bolt that should have been fitted with a locking nut was just dangling--the nut long gone! In effect, the chassis, subframe and suspension raft bits were able to move relative to each other in ways Lotus engineers had not intended. A new bolt and nut and some loctite from the local parts store put everything right and David's car is now clunk-free. You can be sure I'll be putting a wrench on all those bolts/nuts before I run my M100 on the track at Thunderhill--just to be on the safe side--even though I don't currently suffer from the clunk syndrome. Checking for loose bolts/nuts in that area is probably something others out there might consider in the interest of Happy (Carefree) Lotusing. Joel

Sep 19, 2000 - 03:23 - From: Andy
Title: Fuel Consumption?
Message: Can anyone tell me what sort of mileage a standard Elan SE should be doing to a gallon of fuel? Mine seems very thirsty at the moment!?!

Sep 19, 2000 - 04:28 - From: Rod
Title: J*B Autos - Nottingham
Message: I have not heard of this place in Nottingham, but do know several owners in the area - have you an address for them, I can ask around. Most Nottingham people go to Peter Smith Sports cars over towards Derby - but I was very unimpressed with them.

Sep 19, 2000 - 04:30 - From: Rod
Title: Consumption
Message: Andy, sounds like you are driving it to its full potential :-) I can get into the 30's on a steady motorway drive if turbo not spinning, and down well below 20's on a cross country, turbo spinning, fun day.

Sep 19, 2000 - 05:26 - From: jason
Title: J*B Autos
Message: Never heard of them I'm afraid, but personal recommendation is always a good sign. For non-service work I occasionally used Simon Gamble at Smalley (North of Derby). He's a Lotus & Ferrari Specialist & does fibreglass repairs. The attraction was the labour rate - about 50% of Smiths.........Jason.........Who gets his Elise on Saturday :)

Sep 19, 2000 - 08:20 - From: Steve
Title: J&B Autos
Message: Was recommended them by a Jim Orrell? of Hucknall (information is at home apparently he went to Donnington last year). After speaking to directory enquiries and calling them (0115 9221242) it is a general repair place with a Chilwell address having a single lotus specialist called Julian. He is on holiday until a week this Friday but at this time I shall call him and try to find out more. Jason concerning Simon Gamble, any good? I have historically used Christopher Neil and found the standard of their work poor, i.e. Not tightening transmission oil drain plugs then informing me it would be ok to drive back to them with no oil, replacing a front caliper due to it sticking taking nearly 3 weeks to do this and the caliper was still sticking. I stripped this down and found grit around the piston. I am therefore looking for an alternative garage around the Manchester or Notts/Derby area. Cheers Steve

Sep 19, 2000 - 15:19 - From: RICHARD
Title: Water Ingress
Message: Does anybody else experience water running from the drain holes at the bottom of the doors on the Elan M100, and then gathering on the plastic trim on the door frame. Under heavy rainfall the water then goes over the edge and into the footwells of the car, and soaking the carpets, making them impossible to dry out in the winter! If so have you got any fixes how I can get round this???

Sep 19, 2000 - 18:23 - From: charlie
Title: loose nuts , water, wheel
Message: thats the joke everyone has about lotus owners, spending their weekends retightening all the loose nuts.. I guess its somewhat true, specially for the trim... I too had the same water problem, i just don't drive it in the rain anymore. Yes i have a momo wheel, when i got the car the airbag was removed, i've had two momo wheels since then and i would rather not swap it back, i've heard abut the regulation a few times, but have no concrete evidence, no doubt it'd be the dealer at fault not me =) Personally I hate airbags, I think seatbelts are enough. There is a story i've heard that airbags were invented for the american consumer because they rarely use(d) seatbelts. Lotus also supply a non airbag wheel for non american use, which is similar to the momo one, but smaller. the momo i use is the "top power colour" there is pics of it on my website, its around $300 if memory serves, which it probably doesn't.

Sep 19, 2000 - 22:11 - From: Doug
Title: stuff
Message: Don't quote me but the airbag reg is for new car sales rules only, and the consumer could therefore remove it if desired--just as one can drive an older car without an airbag or can decide not to have the airbag replaced if it goes off and the car is fixed!! I agree with Charlie about the origin of airbags and am also pretty sure it is true. And I agree with Rod's mileage figures--if your are lower than start checking easy things like plugs, plug gaps, TIMING, O2 sensor, plug wires, etc. Richard, your answer is to move to California where it never rains and the top can just stay down!

Sep 19, 2000 - 23:40 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Air Bags
Message: My understanding of the last round of news reports I heard on the air bag story was that the driver could apply for a permit to disable (not remove) the driver's side air bag if the driver could show/prove to the appropriate government official that they sat too close to the steering wheel to safely survive an air bag inflation without injury (decapitation) due to being small in stature or sitting closer than a certain distance to the steering wheel. I believe they could apply for a permit to disable (not remove) the passenger side airbag as well if they could show the passenger would be a child or small adult that would be injured by air bag inflation. Disabling consists of wiring in a key controlled switch that would be mounted under the dash. Getting the permit is only the first hurdle. The work must be performed by a authorized and licensed shop and dealerships and repair shops have universally refused to perform the work because they fear liability if someone is injured in a car with the air bag disabled. In any event, the bag, explosive that inflates the bag, wiring, and trigger switch must remain in the car and remain functional and re-activateable by key switch so that the bag can be reactivated any time the vehicle is driven by anyone other than the person who has been given the permit to disable or whenever a passenger other than the one with the permit to disable is riding._ _ _Bill Luton

Sep 20, 2000 - 05:04 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Water Ingress
Message: Richard - I can't quite remember the relationship between the door drain holes and the bottom inner trim but I thought the door seal pressed against the door opening and any drain holes were between the seal and the outside of the door. I have seen some rubber nipples stuck to the bottom seal so that it allowed any water to seep out if it got onto the inner trim. I also think that post 92 cars had a larger upstand on the inside trim. Can you correct me about the drain hole positions? Is the outside edge of the bottom trim masticed to the body as water can get in through capillary action? I'll see if I can draw a cross section after looking at my car. Richard S (have I got your car in my register?)

Sep 20, 2000 - 05:27 - From: Jason
Title: Water ingress & Simon Gambles
Message: I know that water ingress problem! Open your door, look at the rubber seal that runs across it. On some cars the seal is so good (honest!) that water cannot run out between the sill (grey plastic) and the seal. The fix is to cur 2 small holes (triangles out of them, and allow it to run through. Capillary action is the best solution - cut some small strips of chamois and attach them to the seal (so when the door is closed the chamois is in contact with the grey trim, and the other end goes over the edge of the grey trim (ie lower) - water is then drawn down the chamois! Works a treat. If the car is parked across a slope the problem is worsened, as the water runs down the inside of the door, through the holes, on to the grey trim and in to your footwell!........ Simon Gambles, I've had just one unhappy incident when they scratched a wheel fitting new disks & pads. Otherwise they seem OK. I think Simon himself has stopped working on cars now, and last time I went there were a lot of "school leavers" doing the servicing. Ah and when they replaced my exhaust they made a balls up (another school leaver!). Hmmmmmmm, not very positive, but apart from that they were good.

Sep 20, 2000 - 08:33 - From: Dan
Title: Airbags
Message: The airbag is a supplement to your seatbelts and are useless if you're not wearing your belt. At 60 mph you're traveling at 88 ft/sec; unbelted you'll hit the steering wheel in less than .02 sec (that 2 hundredths!) in a frontal impact. Anyone have the stats on how long it takes an airbag to fully deploy? (my guess is right after your head hits!)

Sep 20, 2000 - 09:13 - From: Craig Tomes
Title: MBC and Boost results
Message: Please could those of you who have an MBC give me a rough idea of the cutoff point for the bleeder valve. 0.65bar at present, 0.95bar max cutoff - so whereabouts in between should I be aiming for and approx. what HP should I get out of it afterwards - so I know if I've gone high enough ? probably already had that many discussions on this already, but this info will help the guys who are fitting/testing it for me.....cheers

Sep 20, 2000 - 10:27 - From: Doug
Title: airbag, MBC
Message: Craig, put the boost where you like it anywhere in the range. You already know the limit. I don't think we have any dyno HP results. The Superchips company literature "claims" 225HP at full boost but this is questionable and is certainly flywheel HP not HP at the wheel anyway. A basic rule is about 10HP increase for each pound of boost increase in our engine category. Dan, the airbag deploys faster than you can say "mutts nuts"--ever see the slow-mo video of a crash where the airbag is inflated before it even looks like the collision occurs?! The airbag is advertised as a "supplement" and yes it is but it does work as a stand alone. How many of you know that your airbag works?? And how do you know? Is that little light even connected to something? How could anyone (the law) prove your airbag was disabled other than it being removed visibly? And who would care? Just take it off if you want and put it on if you sell it or fully disclose to the buyer what you did and leave it up to them.

Sep 20, 2000 - 10:52 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Air Bags
Message: The air bag system can be checked using a diagnostic tool plugging into the air bag diagnostic plug, right next to the ALDL plug which is used for the engine diagnostic tool. The diagnostic circuit will tell if the sensor is working, if the air bag is functional, and if there are any problems with the system, just like the trouble codes for the engine. Checking the air bag circuit with the diagnostic tool can be part of the vehicle safety inspection. There were some stories recently on several news programs about cars that were involved in accidents and supposedly repaired to OEM spec. However, it was found to be common practice for several shops to skip replacing the air bag, replace only the steering wheel cover, and stuff a big rag into the hole where the air bag goes. The shop owners and workers are faced with numerous charges including violation of federal law for disabling a vehicle safety system, insurance fraud, and manslaughter for several vehicles which were later involved in accidents which should have triggered the absent air bag to protect the driver from injury and death. Best bet is not to speculate on who might find out or what the law might be and talk to a lawyer or someone in the transportation department (DOT or state)._ _ _Bill Luton

Sep 20, 2000 - 10:52 - From: Rod
Title: MBC - Boost Setting
Message: I have had a "real" boost gauge to try and measure the boost I am running, but never bother to hook it up. The MBC is a trial and error thing, and even the best one in the world will need resetting now and again. Set it to what you are happy with.

Sep 20, 2000 - 14:19 - From: will
Title: boost control
Message: in my opinion, the boost controller from blitz is the best way to go. i know a lot of quarter mile runners (i don't know the conversion for you uk cats) and they use manual only so they can hold the boost at a low while driving to the track. then they just crank it up at the track. they all use air pumps from fish tanks.

Sep 20, 2000 - 16:30 - From: Dan
Title: airbag
Message: =====from NHSTA/GM study on the net=====........................... "The crash sensing algorithm used in 1999 model year GM vehicles decides whether to deploy the airbags based on calibration values stored in the SDM reflecting that vehicle model's response to a variety of impact conditions. This predictive algorithm must make airbag deployment decisions typically within 15-50 msec (.015-.050 sec) after impact." Doug - I haven't seen those videos, but the above says the system takes 15-50 msec to DECIDE to deploy -- for the bag to deploy before the impact reaches the cockpit would require a very absorbent "crumple" zone (longer the better) and up-front sensors. I did, however, see a site that said they had a side bag that would deploy in 3 msec. In any case, I'll always wear my seatbelt and hope I never have to test the theory on our Elan.

Sep 20, 2000 - 17:49 - From: Doug
Title: airbaggage
Message: Not really caring about airbags as I drive defensively and wear my seatbelt. Dan, I got this stat for you: "Consider this: airbags must be fully inflated in approximately 5/l00th of a second, or 0.05 seconds, in order to position themselves to restrain the occupants as they are carried forward by their inertia in a severe frontal collision. Airbag deployment is literally faster than the blink of an eye." As a doctor I've seen people saved by them and others hurt by them--I have no clear opinion.

Sep 20, 2000 - 22:00 - From: HARLAN
Title: SPOILER
Message: DOES ANYONE HAVE A US SOURCE FOR THE BLACK RUBBER FRONT SPOILER AND THE PLASTIC RETAINING STRIPS FOR THE ELAN THE SPEED BUMPS HAVE DESTROYED MINE. THANKS HARLAN

Sep 21, 2000 - 03:05 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Water Ingress
Message: Richard, I looked in my manual last night and in section BK Addenda it talks about the following points where water may get past the primary door seal - Door glass inward tilt angle, Door mirror flange seal, all screw heads holding the inner trim panel, check the speaker polythene sheet, primary door seal retaining clips, access panels on inner door skin. Have you also checked the door seal to make sure it hasn't perished. I checked my car last night and the drainage holes are between the primary door seal and the outer door skin. Try taking the inner trim panel off and get someone else to spray a hose on the door, window, mirror areas and see if you can spot where the water is getting in. Richard

Sep 21, 2000 - 08:44 - From: George
Title: Stuff.
Message: Guys, I have been extremely addicted to this website called epinions.com I did a a little review on our beloved Elan. This site is great, you can search through products and find out what people think about them. Anyway, some guy did a review on a M3, saying it: "The Best Handling Car in the World." Yeah, whatever, we all know who wins the handling competition. Anyway, I need to vent a little... This same guy down rated my opinion on my old P.O.S. 93 740i, he also have a lot of rating power (epinions has an interesting system, check it out) in this epinions community. Therefore, my previously loved and highly recommended review became a crappy one with his single vote. I thought that I made a good effort in warning people about how unreliable the bimmers are. Apparently, this dude is some BMW fanatic, he used to fix them up and stuff, and he now sells them. What a jackass, ignorant MOFO can't handle reality and bash people's opinions. Ok, sorry about the venting speech, I am done... By the way, try the "Clay Bar" on your Elan's paint next time you wash/detail the car yourself. This stuff makes the pain smooth as a mirror.

Sep 21, 2000 - 11:44 - From: Dave Schmid
Title: Koni Shocks / Eibach Springs
Message: Hey folks, Doug put up my racing suspension system under the "Aftermarket Enhancements/Upgrades" If anyone is interested or has questions, let me know, it was a 10 month project. It is pricey and probably not for everyone, but has been a great handling option. I'm working on urethane bushings now, hopefully it will take less time to develop.

Sep 21, 2000 - 14:22 - From: Richard Dart
Title: Thanks For the advice! & Misfiring problem
Message: Thank you to those of you who replied, it is the first time I have used the message board, and I am amazed at the response! I will try the solutions suggested to cure my water problem, Jason, your fix will be my first try, as the problem you experienced in the past with the seal being so tight that it stops the water getting out is identical to my problem! Richard S, I don't have my Elan on your register, what info do you require?

Sep 21, 2000 - 14:28 - From: Richard Dart
Title: Misfiring problem
Message: As you have been so quick to respond to my last problem, I am also currently experiencing a misfiring problem, the car misfires on start up, but the problem is intermittent, after a few seconds, or if you rev the engine, the misfiring goes and the car appears to run normally. Anybody got any ideas on the possible cause/ solutions?

Sep 21, 2000 - 15:23 - From: Scott
Title: Misfire...stutter
Message: I've had my Elan for 1 year and never have I been able to start it up cold and race it out of the garage. The very first push on the accelerator always gives me the stutter, but only once. I have always chalked this up to the Elan's personality rather than a problem. Since others seem to report the same thing, I actually feel better and less concerned. Just my 2 cents. -Scott

Sep 21, 2000 - 18:58 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Front Brake Rotors
Message: I've managed to source cross drilled front brake rotors through SMC and have added them to the online catalog at: http://www.isuzuperformance.com/bills/brakes.html#smc ._ _ _Bill Luton

Sep 21, 2000 - 20:41 - From: John
Title: Euro 2000 Auto Festival
Message: For you East Coast USA Elan owners, BMW is sponsoring an Auto Fest at their factory in Greenville, SC from October 20 to 22. Any european cars are welcome. There will be a car show as well as tours of the BMW plant. Sure would like to see some other Elans there. Check out their web site at WWW.EUROAUTOFESTIVAL.COM .

Sep 21, 2000 - 21:25 - From: Doug
Title: Misfiring
Message: Richard, I always find myself posting this, but the timing is notorious for being off on the Elan and can cause misfiring, hesitation, poor mileage, loss of power, etc!!! If you have not reset the base timing in over a year then it is probably off a few degrees minimum! It has been a year for me and I will be rechecking it soon even though my car runs fine. Last time I checked it my Elan was running fine and the timing was off by 6 degrees!! Check out my write-up on how to do this yourself! Cheers.

Sep 22, 2000 - 04:13 - From: Craig Tomes
Title: Misfire/ Stutter - my experience
Message: Just to update you all on the same problem I had with this. I had the same issues on startup, but also whilst I was accelerating hard sometimes it was a real stutter bunny, and it was becoming a real pain. Answer - spark plugs, got them replaced with platinum tipped plugs (probably didn't need to be platinum!) and tested. The car has never run so well - completely solved the problem and it is soooo smooth!! Get those plugs changed........also, don't forget those of you in the mid to south UK that the next "southrun" is on soon... www.southrun.co.uk  for more details and subscribe to the mailing list.

Sep 23, 2000 - 01:09 - From: Joel
Title: airbag revisited
Message: I don't "check in" every day, but I thought the comments a few days ago about airbag deployment times needed a little clarification (from an engineer's standpoint). Dan's suggestion that your head would hit the steering wheel before the airbag deploys is pretty obviously wrong just based on the manufacture's general success with these systems and the crash test videos we have all seen--but why is it wrong? Very simply, although it is correct that your body and the car are both moving at, say 88 fps, before a frontal impact, it is not physically possible for the car to stop instantaneously while you go "flying" forward into a steering wheel suddenly at rest. For that to happen the car would have to experience an instant, rigid body, infinite, negative acceleration (sometimes called "de"celeration). Sorry, real materials deform and absorb energy, and real impacts are very complex 3-dimensional problems. If you instead assume a very rapidly achieved, and then constant, negative acceleration of say -100g's (i.e., a step function input 100 times the acceleration of gravity that stops the vehicle) you will find that it takes about 0.23 seconds for the vehicle to come to rest from a constant velocity of 88 fps. Although still based on a gross oversimplification, this result tells us that airbag deployment times of a few milliseconds are virtually instantaneous compared to the time it takes for the vehicle and its parts to come to rest. In a nutshell, that's why they work and that's why there is enough time for some logical decisions to be made by "smart" airbags prior to deployment. Incidentally, the -100g acceleration is probably a high estimate given the energy absorption capacity of a well-designed modern car chassis--even the "black boxes" in Indy/CART open wheel cars and NASCAR sedans rarely record more than -100g's when they encounter very stiff objects like the walls of an oval race track. Sorry that this explanation took so long, but hopefully it will help put to rest some the questions that arose in the earlier discussions. Me? I don't even back out of the garage without my seatbelt on! Joel

Sep 26, 2000 - 17:34 - From: Tony V
Title: Tires...
Message: A friend of mine with an Elan asked me about Tires...What kind are you guys suggesting now....I have Yoko Intermediates... and I wonder if 225 x 50 x 16 would fit...as the right size is discontinued. Anybody know...?

Sep 26, 2000 - 18:38 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Tire Sizes
Message: OEm tires are 205-45-16. You are asking how 225-50-16 tires will fit. I don't know if they will physically fit into the wheel wells, but that tire is four inches larger in diameter than the OEM tire. Sort of like going from a relatively low profile tire to a offroad, ballon tire. Serious speedometer error of around 6 MPH at legal highway speed. Check: http://pw1.netcom.com/~sgalaba/tiresize.htm#TireSize  . 225-40-16 would be closer on diameter if it will clear the body work, but keep in mind, that much tire is going to slow the car down because of added friction._ _ _Bill Luton

Sep 26, 2000 - 20:44 - From: Tony V
Title: Tires
Message: What I know about tire sizes is not much...I was under the impression that the 225 meant just a wider tire...and I figured that the 50 would be the same height as the 205x50x16 that I have on my car ....Yoko doesn't make a 45 or 50 series in that tire anymore...so I thought a 225/50 might work...

Sep 26, 2000 - 22:27 - From: Doug
Title: Tires
Message: Tony, the OEM size in the US for the 16 inch wheels is 205/45-16. The 205 is the tire width in millimeters, and the 45 is the "aspect ratio of the height", meaning in this case that the height is 45% as tall as the tire is wide. There still are tires at 205/45-16 out there--notably are the Yoko AVSi's and the Nitto 555's which both are nice tires. I am switching to 225/45-16s soon! This has a tiny bit more rolling circumference but that will actually help my 5MPH speedo error change to about 2-3 MPH error. This size is also rare and not too many tires come in it. 225/50-16 is a very common size and very many tires can be found for this. This will fit but the speedo error will be likely 4MPH (check this on a size calculator online) since it will be a bit taller than the 225/45 so will have yet a tiny bit bigger circumference. In theory all these tire WILL fit the rims and the car. You can make arguments about the circumference stuff and the handling, but I am looking forward to putting a bit more rubber on the road with the 225s! Check the owners' listing to see who is using what brand and size tires.

Sep 27, 2000 - 02:36 - From: George
Title: Doug
Message: Doug, you haven't upgrade your tires yet??? lol Gotta do it man, it's a nice switch. I spoke to HRE wheels the other day. Their claim about "customizing" is pretty BS; I guess they can customize your finish and color..etc. They could not do anything about the unique offset the Elan has. Bummer, I was thinking about getting some 17" rims for X'mas.

Sep 27, 2000 - 05:21 - From: Matthew - Essex UK
Title: Re: Car Accessories (Carbon Steering Wheels etc) !!!
Message: Hi Guys, Just wanted to pass on this company that I have seen that sells the carbon steering wheels www.reverie.ltd.uk  They really are awesome but I don't have any pics. I think they may also have brochures etc for you to receive. If anyone else knows of any good accessories sites can you let me know. Cheers Matthew

Sep 27, 2000 - 05:56 - From: Chris Schrobilgen
Title: Looking for a Elan!!
Message: I'm looking for a Elan. I prefer it in Yellow, then Silver, then Red. I would like to find one in excellent condition, with low mileage (ie under 15,000). Also if anyone has any comments on having this car I would love to get some inputs. Thank you

Sep 27, 2000 - 08:12 - From: John Earl
Title: Why buy an elan?!
Message: Wouldn't buy an elan now if you paid me, had one for 6 months and nothing but problems. You name it I had it go wrong. Brakes were crap, gearshift failed and was never put right by Lotus dealer, exhaust cracked, driveshafts went capput, windows failed, roof leaked, new Cam sensor, new MAP sensor, pop up's didn't pop up, drove around on sidelights for 3 months! the car rattles and is dam noisy on the highway. My worst car experience ever, do youself a favour and look elsewhere. Even the sun visors failed to hold up!!!!! John.

Sep 27, 2000 - 09:46 - From: Dom
Title: Try before u buy.
Message: Might have been worth looking at it before you bought it...

Sep 27, 2000 - 10:21 - From: Alex R.
Title: We have 24 Lotus Elans....
Message: in our database. I work for www.classicdriver.com and maybe you will find your Lotus here. http://www.classicdriver.com/uk/find/4000.asp 

Sep 27, 2000 - 10:34 - From: Rod Little
Title: Why buy an Elan
Message: Hmmm, I have had mine going on 9 years and 50k+ miles. I really cannot find anything I would rather own, and I do keep test driving other cars. I agree Brakes are not good at low speed, but once warmed up are fine for normal road use. You can upgrade to better discs and pads for the same money as Lotus parts and get a great improvement ( I use Tarox, others use EBC parts ). Gearshift cables is a well known problem, mine failed at 15k miles and were replaced with the later Lotus design and have been fine since, again if you are still worried you can upgrade to Isuzu parts, but in this case the standard ( fixed ) Lotus part has been fine for me. I don't know why your Exhaust failed, mine lasted the same sort of time as any other car, then I replaced for a stainless system that is still looking and sounding good. I have NEVER heard of driveshaft problems and am starting to wonder if you bought the car with good history. If it was driven with the driveshaft "rubbers" split then sure the driveshafts would eventually fail. Windows and roof problems just need some TLC and a good dealer should be able to adjust/clean as necessary, or you just need to spend some time ( couple of hours ) once a year doing simple maintenance. The sensors appear to fail, but not for me yet. I think one of the USA guys had a pop up problem, solved by a scrap yard part. Some cars appear to rattle much more than others, anyone considering buying one should a) ONLY buy one with full history - the regular oil changes and dealer maintenance is VERY important b) drive a few cars, a well maintained/loved car is the ONLY one to consider. Treat any car badly, with little maintenance and it will just cause you trouble, but when its a performance car this will be triple trouble ! We don't have highways over here :-) But mine was a daily driver sitting at motorway speeds ( 70mph +/- 20% ) for a couple of hours at a time without bothering me. The sun visor design is the most stoopid thing I have ever seen, removed them on second day of ownership and have never considered putting them back on.

Sep 27, 2000 - 10:48 - From: Andy Y
Title: C'mon it's a used car...
Message: John Earl, you pretty much named all the common problems (minor inconveniences) we have identified, except for the drive shaft (front wheel drive?). Considering most are around 10yrs old, it's not too bad, esp if you can turn a wrench. As for the visors, it's a matter of popping off the covers and torquing the screw bolts.

Sep 27, 2000 - 10:59 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Best car ever!
Message: WOW, John you must have never had too many sports cars. I have had just about everything and by far the Lotus Elan is the best driving machine and the most reliable vehicle I have owned! Yes, you have mentioned some of the common problems seen with the Elan but it sound like you bought one that was not maintained very well with its previous owner(s). I would hate to have to begin listing all of the problems I have had with my Porsche, Alfas, Fiats, MGs, and even my Ferrari 308. Granted my Ferrari was a 308 but still you would think for that type of money you would really get some quality, wrong! The Lotus Elan is the most fun I have had from all the cars that I have owned. Some times when you find a couple of problems you just have to say "MUTTS NUTS"

Sep 27, 2000 - 13:20 - From: Craig
Title: Elans are great cars
Message: John. I sympathize with the problems you had with your Elan, indeed I can agree with many of your experiences. However the Elan is still a GREAT car - supercar performance, handling, looks, economy all rolled into a convertible !! It is still the best car I have ever owned. Mine is a company car so it is easier to justify costs of repair admittedly, but look at TVR's track record for problems !! That is why this site is so good though - the standard car does need some tweaks beyond the standard parts to make it what it should be and this site offers the opportunity to enhance a sometimes quirky but ultimately fantastic Lotus and share these experiences. My advice to new buyers, just drive one!! (and take a very close look at the history ;)

Sep 27, 2000 - 14:29 - From: Richard
Title: Leather Restoration
Message: Can anybody suggest any good product for the restoring the colour of my leather seats in my elan. The seats are Red and Grey, I have cleaned and nourished the leather with auto glym products, but the colours could do with some revival, and in places the pigment has come right off leaving just the original brownie colured leather, this has has mainly occurred on the drivers seat where you get in and out. Is there any colour replacement products available?

Sep 27, 2000 - 14:30 - From: Dave Schmid
Title: Tires
Message: Tony, I have Michelin Pilot SX GT 215/40/16 on the black Elan and am very happy with them. The wider tire is offset with the 40 profile and the height is only slightly less. I got them from Tire Rack at $140. The picture gallery will show you some views of the car with these tires. Good Luck

Sep 27, 2000 - 14:44 - From: John Earl
Title: Elan a good buy?
Message: I don't want to upset anyone it's just that my Elan ownership was not an enjoyable experience, probably because I'm no spanner head and the two Lotus dealers I tried to fix my problems were just not interested. FYI the car had full dealer history and I paid good money for it! That was 3 years ago and I've since had a mitsubish GTO and mazda RX7. Both in my opinion have better engines than the lotus, and have superior engineering integrity. When I've had problems which have been very rare the dealer takes an interest in fixing them. The mazda is every bit as much fun as the lotus and is also great on the track. The Elan I'm sure would have been a much better car if someone other than lotus had done the production engineering. John.

Sep 27, 2000 - 18:49 - From: Barry Berman
Title: Bummed Repair City/Can't go to Bonsal
Message: I was just getting a tune-up today and having a few things looked at today, and found a big repair reeling its ugly head. Question for y'all, if the following repair could be done on your own. CV Boots for the front need to be replaced $25 a piece, not too bad, till you add the $650 in labor on top of it. I'm also replacing the Headlamp Motor, and Brake Pressure assembly for the rear, B-Service, but those are trivial in comparison. Of course these means, the car is in the shop till Monday/Tuesday, so I'm missing the car show:( Please reply to the list, and my e-mail address if you don't mind. Barry.

Sep 27, 2000 - 21:20 - From: Tony V
Title: In defense of Elans and Lotus
Message: I usually don't get involved in this type of discussion...but Yes...all those things can go wrong...and invariably some do, but it it rare that they all happen on one car..but you see..taking all that into account, owning an Elan or any Lotus ( and I have owned a lot of them) is worth it when you drive it...and if you don't feel that way...then you are just not driving it the way it was supposed to be driven. And to compare it to a Mazda or a Mitsu..well that comparison is so far off the mark...it is almost absurd Driving a Lotus is like making love...everyone thinks they know how to do it...but few really do. Sounds like a good line for a Tee Shirt!!!!!

Sep 28, 2000 - 02:52 - From: Mike
Title: Yo John Earl
Message: John you are either a moron (or unlucky)... I've had my Elan for 6 years (and a Viper for 3) They both rattle and are not by any means built like a Mazda. If I wanted a Mazda I would have bought one! but they are also very low in production and were made for different purposes: Handling and speed. I have never had a mechanical problem with either one of these cars. I have a feeling you bring these negative energies upon yourself (what goes around comes around). You need to quit whinning and buy a Cadillac. I'm sure you will retire in Florida and become a Snow bird after you ripoff enough of the neighborhood childrens baseballs for finding there way into your yard. Mazda RX7's are cool, but they also produce 50,000+ a year, if they can't get it right at 50,000 THEN... you have something to bitch about!!! Lets face it, from all I have read and experienced, this car has no less problems than a 10 year old Nissan, but with 20 times the resale value and 100,000 times the rarity. John, These aren't furnaces or refrigerators, they are 10 year old limited production sports cars and this is part of the prestige in which most people on this site find respectable. I don't usually speak up on this site but....Man this guy bugs me! (been awhile) Mike

Sep 28, 2000 - 03:00 - From: Mike
Title: PS John
Message: I'd never take my Elan to a Lotus dealer just like I'd never take my Viper to a Dodge dealer. (do the math). Plus, Engineers don't make the decisions, CEO's unfortunately do. I am glad you wouldn't buy an Elan again frankly if you would like I'll pay you not to post here again... The typing is killing me.

Sep 28, 2000 - 03:16 - From: Steve
Title: Mazda's and Mitsi's
Message: Mmmmmm, i thought Mazda RX7's had a rotary wankel ( i said wankel ! ) engine that was virtually guaranteed to blow up at 50k on the clock, not that reliable then. As for Mitsubishi, well the Japanese government are currently investigating claims that they have been hiding problems with cars and not recalling them. Like i said mmmmmmmm..........

Sep 28, 2000 - 03:22 - From: Steve
Title: MBC
Message: Will the MBC work ok on a S2? I presume there's no reason. Has anyone in the UK fitted one, if so what bit's did you source and where ? Was it as easy as it sounds ? Any problems with aftermarket exhausts ? God i'm scared !!! Bloody expensive mistake to make !!!! Thanks in advance, Steve.

Sep 28, 2000 - 05:03 - From: Richard S
Title: Brake Valve and Exhausts
Message: Has anyone else had to replace either of the rear brake proportioning valves?, I have to do one of mine as its weeping slightly. Is this a common problem? Steve - I replaced my S1 (no cat) rear box with a Double S stainless straight through about 3 years ago, noisier than standard but otherwise seems O.K. Richard

Sep 28, 2000 - 05:05 - From: George
Title: Elan a bad buy?
Message: John, I appreciate your sincerity that you clarify the fact you do not want to offend anyone here. However, it would be difficult since this is a Lotus Elan message board, with Lotus enthusiasts. Also, it would be difficult to justify your actual motive, no offense. If you owned an Elan for 6 months, 3YEARS AGO, may I ask you what are you still doing hanging out here? If you have a general interest for the Elan, that's great. From what you have written, it does not seem like that's the case. If you just detest the Elan so much and love your Mitus & RX7 with all your heart, why don't you just move on to the Mitsu and RX7 message board? Granted, you had a bad owner's experience, but as you can see here, this is not the case for all other owners. I truly sympathize your misfortune, but just with your bad experiences, it does not make Elan a POS car. For most owners, Elans are one of the most reliable cars we've owned. Yes, your Elan probably was not as reliable as you would've like, but I think the previous owner(s) has a lot to do with it, not the car. I wish you the best with your new rides, and I hope you can see the actual truth from majority owners' points of views.

Sep 28, 2000 - 05:57 - From: Louise
Title: Waterlogged!!!
Message: I have owned my Elan SE for 4 weeks now, and have been utterly delighted with it, I hadn't stopped grinning until it started to rain last week. Both the front footwells are completely sodden, the water seems to be coming from under the door as well as come where else at the front of footwell. I phoned Lotus, who basically told me these leaks are standard features on the Elan and that some people drill holes in the floor to let the water drain out!!! I don't have a garage and am not having much luck with rain covers, I was hoping to have the Elan as my only car to use for work etc, is this just completely impractical, how do other owners manage this problem?

Sep 28, 2000 - 06:51 - From: Craig
Title: Servicing / leaks
Message: Can somebody tell me the Official service requirements for a 1990 SE turbo - is it 6000 miles or 10,000 miles as I am getting conflicting info from Lotus on this one !! By the way Louise, my Elan is for everyday use too (parked outside as well!) and mine doesn't leak into the footwell at all (although the window seals are notoriously a bit drippy whilst stationery or round town!). I can't believe it is "standard" for a car to leak water to the footwell - so ring Lotus back and tell em' to sort it !! ;)

Sep 28, 2000 - 08:37 - From: John Earl
Title: Goodbye
Message: I'm not sure why you resort to calling me a moron simply because I offer my own experiences to someone's posting?!!! I have an interest in sports cars and was killing time reading some postings on this site. The fact you can't accept any opinion other than your parocial view is rather sad. It's about time some of you accepted that sports car design has moved on. I shan't post in future. John.

Sep 28, 2000 - 08:44 - From: Stephen Jones
Title: GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
Message: Unfortunately I have had to sell my Elan, I need more mundane transport, but I will say I have enjoyed the vehicle tremendously and would recommend them to anyone. Thanks to everyone who replied to my plea's for help etc. This site is an excellent source of all things Elan! Happy Elan'ing All.

Sep 28, 2000 - 09:00 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Elans and Reliability
Message: Lotus is a hand produced car. They do things like manually trim pieces and panels when assembling the car. it is a bit different than ordering 100,000 parts or panels from a Southeast Asian subcontractor and then setting them up on a line to slap on as cars go by. That said, the overengineering done on the Elan has distinguished it as the first car built by Lotus that is reliable enough to be used as a daily driver, and there are enough people here doing just that to disprove any doubt._ _ _ Reliability? Isuzu is renowned in the industry for making cars, engines, and transmissions that just keep running and running and running. They take plenty of abuse and just keep going. Despite this, Lotus stocked up on engines and transmissions from Isuzu anticipating the same failure rate as their previous Renault and Ford engines and transmissions. They were wrong. They had enough left over after all was said and done to produce a second generation, the S2. After that, they still had so many left over that they started unloading them below cost and are still trying to sell off overstock, ten years after first production ended. That says a little something about reliability. You can't say that about most manufacturers, especially Mitsubishi, ask any Eclipse racer how many transmissions they have blown up in the last year and they will usually count more than you have fingers on one hand. That little Isuzu transmission will take 400 HP, nothing Mitsubishi makes will take that._ _ _ Regardless of if a car is driven every day or if it is hermetically sealed and stored, after ten years, things will wear out or fail from atrophy. Seals dry up, belts and hoses deteriorate, etc._ _ _ Brakes? Says something pretty impressive about that little engine and transmission when they can propel the little car along at such a rate of speed to overpower the brakes._ _ _ Bill Luton

Sep 28, 2000 - 10:22 - From: Dave M.
Title: Momo/Airbag
Message: I'm not sure if it's still an issue, Doc, but I have replaced my stock wheel with a Momo. If you have any questions on install, etc., I'd be happy to chat. Turns out the hub adaptor needed is from the Isuzu Impluse (go figure), and I had to slightly modify it to get the turn signal cancel to work. I have a 350mm wheel on at the moment and I'd never go back. The "feel" and input difference, especially on track is fantastic. I'm 6'0" and can't see numbers at the top of the speedo without dipping my head slightly, but have plenty of view on where the needle is. As for the airbag, I've kept the original wheel in case I ever, perish the thought, sell the car. Then it would go right back on. As for safety, remember that the airbag is a supplemental device. They were designed to save people who DON'T wear seat belts. For peace of mind (and for the track) I've installed a rollbar and four-point harnesses, anyway. I've got lots more protection than the little device awarded me in the first place. Good to see the Elan community alive and well. Keep up the good work everyone!

Sep 28, 2000 - 14:54 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Thanks
Message: Thanks for your input Dave, it helps. AL

Sep 28, 2000 - 15:35 - From: Rod Little
Title: MBC
Message: Would recommend that you consider upgrading front brakes and adding compressor bypass, before an MBC. Take a look at the boy racer mag's in WHSmiths - demon tweaks and many other advertise in the back of these sort of mags. Or just try a few boy racer car shops - they will either understand what you want immediately or not at all.

Sep 28, 2000 - 15:38 - From: Rod Little
Title: Waterlogged - NOT :-)
Message: Louise, check back a little in this months board, someone mentioned the fix of cutting a couple of v-shapes in the door seal. In the very heavy rain the last few days, I get a bit of water on the floor, but certainly not that bad. If this does not work, check the general condition of the seals, when mine was my daily car I fitted new seals as mine were damaged.

Sep 28, 2000 - 16:25 - From: Rod Little
Title: Service Interval
Message: 6,000 miles or 12 months. I think I am going to learn how to change the oil myself, as no harm at all in 3,000 mile oil changes.

Sep 29, 2000 - 05:21 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Louise & Water Leaks
Message: Louise, Water in the passenger footwell is probably caused by a faulty seal between the fresh air intake and the fan box. Get someone to hose the windscreen above the bonnet point on the passenger side (RHD) whilst you look inside for water dripping from a large black box (heater fan) behind the glove box. The seal is a classic Lotus design of tarred (or something else) foam that cracks with age and when water runs off from the windscreen it drips onto the foam seal, through the cracks in the seal and into the heater fan box and then onto the floor. The seal should have been a rubber concertina type joint but the foam one was probably cheaper and would survive until a day after the warranty period. Sorry for the cynicism but when my hood ripped due a design fault Lotus told me it was only warrantied for a year as was every other part of the car!

Sep 29, 2000 - 08:06 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Rod door Seals
Message: Rod, I think glueing small rubber nipples onto the door seal at the bottom is preferable to cutting them as they are open cell foam filled that will absorb water. The seals are bad enough without making them worse. I have seen this done by Lotus from new.

Sep 29, 2000 - 08:59 - From: Rod
Title: Door Seals
Message: Fair comment Richard. I have not had to modify mine ( yet ) but had heard a few people used the small cuts to great effect. Your idea is much better though, and may do it to mine. Refresh our memories - the actaual problem is that water runs down inside of the door seal, and as the seal is such a good fit, the water cannot run out of the car, instead running down onto carpets ? I have noticed that after washing the car and vigorous hose pipe usage, when I open the drivers door, quite a bit of water "falls" out of the car at the bottom front edge of the door.

Sep 29, 2000 - 15:13 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Intercooler Pipes
Message: At long last and after great toil, the Elan intercooler pipes are back from being polished and plated. _ _ These are a pipe that goes between the intercooler outlet at the left front fender next to the radiator overflow tank to the throttle body inlet. The main pipe is constructed of three pieces of mandrel bent 16 gauge steel pipe with two weld joints. We did not try to hide the weld joints, though the weld joint where the pipe expands on the inlet side from 2 inch diameter to 2 1/2 inch diameter did smooth off quite a bit while removing any high spots. The intercooler pipe is designed to use the HKS Racing blow off valve (the blue spring model) and is plumbed for the pressure reference line on the back side of that valve. The pipe and fittings are all welded construction with 1/4 inch thick waterjet cut mounting flange for the valve and is polished to an obscenely bright reflectance and finished in chrome plate so it looks like a mirror in the shape of a intercooler pipe. It includes vacuum hose to connect to the intake manifold to control the pressure release when the engine builds vacuum (when the driver takes his foot off the gas pedal to shift) as well as hose for the pressure reference line in the back of the valve itself. Connections to the intercooler pipe and the throttle body are made by two pieces of gloss red turbo hose, Burke brand, fiberglass wrapped for added heat and pressure resistance, and stainless steel hose clamps. _ _ I will have to order in some more blow off valves and additional vacuum hose (deciding on red or black now). _ _ _ Bill Luton

Sep 29, 2000 - 23:23 - From: Tony V
Title: AutoWeek Ad
Message: I am sure that many of you get Autoweek, I do, and in this weeks issue, if you do not get it...There is an excellent ad from Lotus about the Esprit. Basically, is says that the car doesn't compete with other cars..It competes with SEX. and then it goes on to describe really well the experience of owning and driving a Lotus.. I think it is really a great ad. I am going to ask them if I can put it on my site...

Sep 30, 2000 - 02:12 - From: Skyler
Title: 90-91
Message: Hello. I am looking into buying a new Elan and I was wondering why everyone seems to be selling 91s? Is there something wrong or strange??? Sorry for sounding so stupid. -Skyler Skyler10n@hotmail.com