October 2002 Message Board

Oct 1, 2002 - 11:56 - From: Owen
Title: Wishbones
Message: My rear wishbones have seen better days. They're not bad, the car's just past it's MOT, with nothing more than a "they could do with a bit of waxoyl" from the examiner, but I'd still like to prolong their life for as long as possible, and they are 12 years old (car is a 1990 G plate). So I was thinking about removing them, wirebrushing them and painting with hammerite or similar. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? How hard is it to remove them? Assuming everything goes back on the same way it came off (with new bushes, obviously) then would the suspension need setting up professionally? Also, since I've got the S2 wheels on, what bits would be worth replacing due to the heavier wheels?

Oct 1, 2002 - 15:38 - From: Laurence
Title: Wishbones
Message: Owen, Regarding the rear wishbones, I'm not sure just cleaning up outside is enough, I should think internal waxoyl injection is just as important for these items. Personally if I was going to the trouble of removing them I would put Peter Bently's new stainless ones on. Regarding upgrading see my post of the 20th further up the board for full details. On the back all you can do is make improvements to geometry adjustability with S2 top links and go to the slightly stiffer S2 dampers (or adjustable alternatives) but then you should probably do that all round rather than just at one end. Laurence

Oct 1, 2002 - 17:26 - From: Ian
Title: Bloody car
Message: Er.... my car is stuck outside with headlights that won't turn off! When I turn the switch on the dash, the dash lights go off and the side lights go off, but the headlights refuse to go down or turn off.... anyone got any ideas before my battery runs flat?

Oct 1, 2002 - 17:56 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Bloody car
Message: Pull the fuse for the headlights. Temporary but effective.

Oct 1, 2002 - 21:11 - From: Dean G
Title: LOG was fun
Message: Had a great time at LOG, 2800 miles worth! The auto-x brought out at least 7 M100’s that I counted. The course set up allowed me to baby my bad first gear and do most of my run in second. This is the first time I was consistently able to slide the rear end. The Dunlop SP9000s screamed bloody murder (37 psi front, and 35 rear. I think I could safely lower the rear pressure but I need to “chalk the tires” before I go any lower on the fronts. At Blackhawk Farms Raceway I was able to get about 1/2 hour of touring time. Lots of fun even though touring had a 70 mph limit. I spent most of my time in 2nd gear. My ride with Dave M was all 3rd and 4th, much quicker! Thanks Dave. I also managed to get a ride for a few laps in a Europa. Its amazing how different two Lotus can be. I hope to have the car better prepared for LOG23 (Buffalo NY August 15-17), definitely a new transmission, eliminate pre-cat, larger K&N filter.

Oct 1, 2002 - 23:46 - From: Doug
Title: Castrol TAF-X in the USA
Message: Here is the response to the inquiry I sent to Castrol USA about where to get Castrol TAF-X in the USA: "Castrol TAF-X 75W-90 GL-4 gear oil is made in the U.K. and sold only in Europe. However, the equivalent in the U.S. is Syntorq LT. Having said that, Syntorq LT SAE 75W-85, API GL -4 is a premium high performance, synthetic gear lubricant for synchronized manual transmissions. The all new "clean slate" approach enables Syntorq LT to provide consistent performance and durability under the most severe operating conditions due to its unique polymer free formula. It has been designed primarily as a problem solving gear lubricant for manual transmissions to provide reduced gearshift effort at low temperatures. Syntorq LT is available through General Motors (Part #12346190) and Chrysler (Part #4637579) dealerships. Please contact your local dealership."

Oct 2, 2002 - 00:55 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Wheels
Message: Hi guys. A few days after my 2nd Track Day, I am sure that the best thing to do is to buy a set of (cheep, 2nd handed, iron) wheels accompanied by a set of tires to rest in my garage and wear them for the track days. I found out that our S2 16" wheels are 7Jx16H2, PCD:4x100, ET:60. All except ET are quite common, but my tire(d)-man could not find a wheel to match ET:60. The usual ET for all car models is 35-40, and the biggest ET he found was 51, far less than 60. Does anyone know if there's a car model (preferably European) that uses these sizes? Or a wheel's brand that makes them? Far more, if I use ET:40 (for example) the wheels will be outer than stock. Would that be a dramatic change at Elan's geometry that makes this solution forbidden? Thank you all. :)

Oct 2, 2002 - 07:08 - From: Laurence
Title: ALDL Software
Message: Hi Alan. What would be the minimum laptop spec to run your software? Rob C has been looking for a spare laptop to experiment with and I have found one at work that is working but it's very old. An Acer 780C (colour screen) which I think is a 486 and it's running Windows 3.11. It may be possible to wipe it and install windows 95 but I'm not sure if it's even worth the trouble. What do you think? Laurence Laurence

Oct 2, 2002 - 08:53 - From: Dave M.
Title: computer interface
Message: What is everyone doing for their ALDL to RS232 connections? I have e-mailed Andy W. about his pre-made pieces, but no reply. My friend Sanj (who has done lots on the Esprit side of datalogging) is out of circuit boards and can't make any others. I was given the following to check with, but not sure what exactly I need to know if it would work. http://www.wotelectronics.com/cables.html  I'd really like to have something to test in 1 1/2 weeks at the last track day. I'll have a couple electronics guys around, too to help sort any problems that may arise. I don't even want to talk about when Kyle from BHP showed me his VR-4 Galant's datalogging system this weekend...running through his Palm! Those DSM buggers...same goes for the Hon-duh folks! ;)

Oct 2, 2002 - 11:09 - From: Philbo
Title: ALDL laptops
Message: Laurence, the ALDL program is written in Delphi and is a 32-bit application. So it will only run on Win95 and above. Generally it will run about as well as Windows itself runs. Win95 and a 486 is just about do-able, but it will be zero fun if it's a SL type chip of less than 50Mhz, and especially if the RAM is less than 16Mb. My advice is, don't bother, it'll be a world of hurt :-) Find a cheapo laptop that's a bit more up to date elsewhere. They're out there.

Oct 2, 2002 - 14:05 - From: Dave M.
Title: wastegate arm
Message: The turbo BHP built has a similar turnbuckle to Tony V's old Elan's MBC. Basically you shorten the actuator arm so the wastegate opens by a smaller amount. MBC without the bleeder. As I'm having a problem getting my car over 17 psi, I thought I would use this adjustment to determine where my issue is (the ball/spring bleeder valve or the HKS pressure relief unit or other). I'm assuming by "shortening the arm" you actually expand the diaphragm within the actuator so it only moves a shorter distance under boost, thereby opening the wastegate less. Does this sound right? Adjusting the arm on the car is nearly impossible, so I thought I'd yank the actuator, adjust, then put it back in. I figure the only way to get the "shorter" arm to reach the wastegate clip is to expand the diaphragm by pulling on the arm. Thoughts?

Oct 2, 2002 - 14:24 - From: Doug
Title: wastegate
Message: Dave, I agree with your reasoning, but (shaking my finger) shouldn't you have tested the actuator diaphragm and visualized the wastegate motion before you assembled them? That way you'd know at what pressures things move and at what pressure the gate is really fully open. Sounds to me like, using the MBC still, you have two variables. You could adjust either one to allow more max boost, but then if your MBC is open and you can't get higher boost then I agree you'll have to adjust the rod so it doesn't open the w-gate as fully! In the OE set-up you are correct that shortening it will do this, but be sure your new set-up is the same way.

Oct 2, 2002 - 15:26 - From: Fiona
Title: Overheating
Message: Can anyone help? I've got a 1995 S2 which keeps overheating, sometimes it goes for days without any problems and others it just goes crazy with a few minutes of starting. I've been back to the dealer 3 times now and they say they can't find a problem. Some weeks I have to put a litre of water in every day. I can't see any leaks and the dealer says the fans are working ok. Has anyone got details of someone who really knows about my car rather than just fobbing me off? I've been using the dealer in Sheffield and I'm not best pleased so far its cost me nearly 200 pounds and the best part of a week for them not to fix my car. Fi

Oct 2, 2002 - 16:35 - From: Laurence
Title: Overheating
Message: Fiona, have the garage changed the thermostat? I would have thought that would be the first thing to do. It may also be worth checking the state of the filler cap on the header tank (I found the rubber seal missing on my car) I live down South so I can't help with a dealer recommendation but it's probably also worth asking on www.british-cars.co.uk  on the Lotus elan technical bulletin board. Most of the members are M100 owners. Good Luck Laurence

Oct 2, 2002 - 17:23 - From: Fiona
Title: Overheating
Message: Thanks Laurence, they changed the thermostat about 3 months ago and it made no difference in fact if anything it got worse. I've since had the system flushed through and pressure tested. The seal on the cap looks fine as I see it almost every day now! Funny thing is I can drive for miles and miles or be stuck in traffic and the gauge behaves itself but start up next day to nip down to the shops and the gauge is off the scale in minutes. My heater has been playing up as well. I'll try that other site. Thanks Fi

Oct 2, 2002 - 17:38 - From: Ed Miller
Title: computer interface
Message: Hi Dave, I have the ALDL from http://www.wotelectronics.com/cables.html  and have used it with my Esprit successfully. I haven't tried it with the Elan, but will do so today or tomorrow. I'm also anxious and curious to know if it will work. When I find out, I will certainly report it back to you...Ed

Oct 2, 2002 - 19:44 - From: Ed
Title: crush washers
Message: Where can you buy crush washers for the oil drain plug?

Oct 2, 2002 - 21:26 - From: Ed Miller
Title: crush washers
Message: Try JAE at www.jaeparts.com  -- that's where I got mine.

Oct 2, 2002 - 22:55 - From: Don Ferrario
Title: wastegate arm
Message: Dave M: Changing the length of the wastegate arm is exactly how I did my boost modification, when I bought my car new, 11 years ago. This was before anyone was talking about bleed valves. Through the back door, Lotus engineering advised us how much to change the length, as a starting point. We cut the rod, and installed a turnbuckle. Unfortunately, I can't now remember if it was shortened or lengthened, but I believe it was shortened.

If you look at the Lotus service manual, you will see that the original design included a waste gate rod with an adjuster. That was changed to a fixed rod, before any USA cars were shipped.

That method of boost control has worked fine for me. I have seen no peaking or such. It just goes up to 0.8 and stays there (until I take my foot out of it!). I am concerned, however, that after my exhaust is changed to 2.5", the turbo will flow more, and the setting will be wrong.

Oct 2, 2002 - 23:27 - From: Doug
Title: boost
Message: Don, your concerns are probably right. You will get a much better boost response and a bit higher flow which may make your car hit the cut-off. Certainly the mods are for the better. You can lengthen the rod a tad and all will be fine, assuming you have microscopic heat-resistant hands and can reach that rod to adjust it.

Oct 3, 2002 - 00:21 - From: Doug
Title: West Coast Lotus Meet
Message: Hey guyz, who's going to the WCLM??? For those who have been spacing out it is October 24-27 and info and registration can be found at GGLC's site ( www.gglotus.org )!! I will be there on Saturday the 26th. We should all plan to meet up somewhere . . . I will drive down Friday nite and buy beers for who ever puts me up! I'll do show-and-tell with my Laptop with Alan's ElanScan program running and let you use it to check your car if you are nice. Any of you SoCal boys up for the drive?

Oct 3, 2002 - 01:17 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Brake upgrade costs
Message: For those that are considering upgrading their Front Brakes, I've come up with the following costing for a DIY kit of Wilwood parts to fit 16" wheeled Elans. (The costs are contingent of batch runs of 5 car sets). 4-piston Calipers, 12.19" dia x .81" thick Rotors, custom Aluminum Hats & Brackets, Porterfield Pads, Anodizing, Bolts, plating and New front S/S Hoses = approx $750 per car. Please let's hear your comments on this so we can judge if it's worth pursuing as a group. To do this individually the cost would be closer to $900 unless you can machine the brackets and hats yourself.

Oct 3, 2002 - 02:48 - From: Alan
Title: ALDL Software
Message: Laurence, Philbo hit the nail right on the head. It needs a 32-bit operating system and a slow PC (486) with little memory would probably not be a good idea. It uses quite a lot of memory when a big log file is open. I reckon a PII minimum would be advisable, the more memory the better. I use it on a 1.2GHz PIII with 256Mb of RAM. I haven't tried it on anything less powerful. The next version (with an 'overlay' facility so you can compare logs!) is in the pipeline. I've identified a few more parameters including spark advance, air control valve state, waste-gate duty cycle & injector pulse width (some are a bit speculative).

Oct 3, 2002 - 04:13 - From: owen
Title: Fiona
Message: Fiona, Chris Foulds is an independent Lotus specialist in Huddersfield, and is very good. I live near Leicester, and would still sooner take my car all the way up there than let any main dealer look at it. But from Sheffield, it's only 20 miles or so.

Oct 3, 2002 - 04:33 - From: owen
Title: Oil leak
Message: I got a small oil leak, originating from somewhere underneath the front bumper on the drivers side. I think it may be the oil cooler, and have taken the inner wing shield off to look at it. There's quite a bit of oil around there, but I can't really see where it's coming from. I tried to tighten up one of the hose connections at the top of the cooler, but it was as tight as I could get it (i couldn't reach the other one without being deformed!). I know the oil cooler was replaced by the previous owner due to a low speed shunt (or so he claims), so i don't think the cooler itself is damaged. Has anyone else had a similar leak?

Oct 3, 2002 - 04:40 - From: owen
Title: Number plate cover
Message: Me again - bored in work. I have got a perspex cover over my rear number plate, and was tempted to remove it and replace the number plate surround with the updated open one, until I saw the price - about £130! I don't suppose anybody knows where I could get a cheaper one, from a breakers or something? Incidentally, the perspex cover apparently reflects speed camera flashes, which is why they are no longer available - so if anyone wants to swap their more recent one for my perspex one to preserve their license, then drop me a line!

Oct 3, 2002 - 05:14 - From: owen
Title: A pillar seals
Message: My A-pillar seals have one or two very small tears in them. I've only had the car for a month, which just happens to be one of the driest septembers on record (good timing?) so i'm not really sure how much the car leaks, but i'm guessing that these tears are not going to help. So does anyone know of a cheap or second hand alternative to paying Lotus about £200 for the pair?? I really should do some work now....

Oct 3, 2002 - 05:33 - From: Laurence
Title: Number plate cover
Message: Owen I spent the money and changed mine on the SE - personally think it looks better. I don't think you have an option unless anyone wants to swop you. If you do change you also need rubber gaskets (from Lotus) to go under the number plate lights and make them water resistant. Don't try pulling the perspex off it's mounting (like I did) without heating the joint with a hair dryer the perspex will crack - it's anyway best to remove the whole unit with perspex in place and not difficult! Laurence

Oct 3, 2002 - 05:54 - From: Laurence
Title: Seals
Message: Owen, get back to work! You could try patching them with black Sikaflex 221 (humidity curing polyurethane sealant and adhesive)( www.sika.com ). There is a distributor of this product in Southampton called Blake Marine Paints - 02380 636373. It's very messy to use, you need wet hands and it can be sanded down when dry but beware the old seals are soft and easily damaged when sanding the Sikaflex! Laurence

Oct 3, 2002 - 06:12 - From: rudz
Title: overheating
Message: fiona, obviously you're loosing coolant & hence, unlikely to be just a thermostat problem. if it was, you could look up the diagnostics for overheating problems on this site. my guess would be an intermittently operating pressure relief valve on the header tank cap. get it tested with a coolant system pressure tester (just a pump with a gauge), which allows you to pressurize the cap & see what pressure it can hold. very likely it's unable to hold up to 110 kPa (1.1bar) needed for our car. as a clue, if this cap is the culprit, you'd probably see green (or whatever coolant colour you use) traces of the coolant on the header tank. good luck

Oct 3, 2002 - 06:22 - From: rudz
Title: leaking oil cooler hoses ??
Message: owen, i had a similar leak when i bought the Elan some years ago. the first problem i had - leaking oil cooler feed/return hoses. apparently, it was leaking at the point where the rubber hoses are crimped/swaged to the metal portion. you can inspect this better with the RH front wheel jacked up & the wheel & arch liner removed. my leaking hose was the one that had to go through a small aperture into the engine compartment bay but i had both the hoses changed anyway. don't wanna risk having the oil cooler hose burst on me when i'm going full bore !!

Oct 3, 2002 - 06:25 - From: Andrew
Title: Seals
Message: Owen, thanks for distracting me from work! Norman of NTC Cars (01322 229111) has been promising for about 3 years to produce better than standard 'A' pillar seals with proper drain holes etc. They should be about half the cost of the Lotus ones. When I last spoke with him he told me that he was hoping to have them in production 'by the Autumn' - I want some, but he works very slowly! Give him a call and hassle him to hurry up with them!!

Oct 3, 2002 - 06:30 - From: john
Title: elan s2 1996
Message: Can anyone help with their opinions please. whats a elan S2 1996 l.h.d. in A1 cond. very low klms worth.

Oct 3, 2002 - 07:35 - From: Alan
Title: Elanners anonymous
Message: Owen, Four consecutive posts on unrelated subjects in 1hr1min! I'm impressed but you need help:)

Oct 3, 2002 - 07:49 - From: owen
Title: number plate cover, oil leak, seals
Message: Laurence - thanks for your advice about the number plate cover, i thought i'd probably have to shell out the £130. Still worth a try! Rudz, i'll check the oil cooler hoses again, i wiped everything clean last time i looked, so perhaps it'll be easier to tell where the oil is coming from this time. Andrew, i phoned Norman at NTC cars - he said that the Apillar seals are "in development", but they've been concentrating on the hardtop lately as apparently they've "had a breakthrough" with it, and are expecting some considerable progress over the next 6-8 weeks. Then they'll get going again on the seals.

Oct 3, 2002 - 09:10 - From: owen
Title: sad, i know
Message: Alan, you're right, but it beats working! Douglas valley have got a number plate surround off an S2 for £47. Anyone know of any reason why this wouldn't fit or would look stupid?

Oct 3, 2002 - 09:51 - From: Dave M.
Title: overheating/boost/ALDL
Message: Fiona, I had a very similar problem (intermittent hot, then cool for no apparent reason) with an MR2. It was attributed to air in the system (the MR2 had a weird bleed system). You may want to flush it yourself using the write up on this site. It could also be something plugging up the system, then working itself loose. That would cause overheating, and possibly excess pressure in the system which causes loss of fluid. *hanging head in shame from Doug's finger-wagging* Yes, I should have checked wastegate operation when out. I did verify the gate made a solid seal before install, and theoretically wouldn't open using the ball-and-spring MBC until a given pressure. Kyle thinks after a few heat cycles (and I've had a few of those!), it may need retightening. The MBC is fine...tested it with my compressor last night. Ed, thanks for the info on the cable. Did yours come with the ALDL connector, or did you splice like they showed on that site?

Oct 3, 2002 - 10:17 - From: stephen
Title: funny sounds
Message: Has anyone experienced a hiss/squelch noise from the steering when turning lock to lock at low speeds. also has anyone ever had an over heating battery (intermittent).

Oct 3, 2002 - 10:54 - From: Darren
Title: funny sounds
Message: Stephen, the hiss/squelch noises from the steering are perfectly normal, I've never got to the bottom of what they actually are (Bellows ?) but every SE I've ever been in/driven has them. Mine sounds like feeding time at the reptile house when I'm parking.

Oct 3, 2002 - 11:50 - From: Doug
Title: LOL
Message: "feeding time at the reptile house"--now I'm gunna bust a gut each time I am parking. Yes, the sounds are the reptiles running on the treadmill within the power steering pump . . .

Oct 3, 2002 - 12:17 - From: Dave
Title: seals and hardtop
Message: Owen don't hold your breath. The seals have been in development for about 5 years now, same story with the hardtop but, having said that, me and a mate had a really good look at one at Donington earlier this year. It was parked well away from the main car park for some reason mainly we decided because they do look a bit naff :) For a start the seals used look no different to those on the existing hood with a scabby spongy surface ripe for water absorption. The brackets for holding the hardtop down looked very agricultural as well. On the car we saw, the windscreen top seal had been covered with silver gaffer tape, probably to cut down on water ingress. So full confidence there in NTC's capabilities! In terms of exterior design lots of it seems to be shaped around constant radius curves, especially the plan form of the rear screen area. The view from the front and side is sort of ok, the back is a complete nightmare. The worst bit in my eyes was the shape of the rear screen. Call me a nitpicker, but the flimsy thin plastic screen on the Lotus cloth hood is shaped to taper towards the top for a good reason, it looks good. For some reason the hardtop has a rear screen with parallel sides. Combine this with the curved rear to the hood and from almost any angle it looks awkward and nothing like the elegant original that Lotus did. We've took some digital camera shots and back home, unprompted, her indoors says "there is no way you're having one of them it looks so *****" I do agree with her for once! Fortunately, touch wood, my hood doesn't seem to leak and the car is only used in the summer so we can live without it. From what I remember at Donington a few years ago when they had a stand it was really expensive. I can't remember exactly how much as we only had our +2 then and didn't pay much attention, 2000 quid maybe? I could have bought a complete, but sound, +2 for restoration cheaper than that, plus it wouldn't look like an ugly duckling.

Oct 3, 2002 - 12:44 - From: Adam
Title: Insurance
Message: Thinking about buying an elan as i've wanted one since I was about ten but I'm abit concerned about insurance costs. I'm 21, have zero no claims bonus and the best quote so far is £1550. Anyone got any recommended insurance companies that might beat this quote?

Oct 3, 2002 - 12:49 - From: stephen
Title: LIZARD MAINTENANCE
Message: thanks for the reassurance folks i thought it sounded expensive. but now who can tell me what i should feed my steering lizard and how do i get access to change its water.

Oct 3, 2002 - 13:08 - From: Candles
Title: Insurance
Message: I am only a couple of years older than you Adam and found: Jardine Faber Insurance Consultants Ltd. Address: Saxon House 39 Marefair Northampton NN1 5SR. Tel: 01604 639011. Fax: 01604 611700. To be quite good. They offer limited mileage policies which is handy if you are using it as a second car.

Oct 3, 2002 - 13:26 - From: Laurence Kettle
Title: Number plate cover
Message: Owen, well done - go for it they are exactly the same. Laurence

Oct 3, 2002 - 14:09 - From: Derrick
Title: great deal on tires.....
Message: just thought Id pass along some info on a great deal on Yokohama AVS tires in a common Elan size, 235/40/17 at tirerack.com, $63 a piece.

Oct 3, 2002 - 15:46 - From: Doug
Title: 235s
Message: Go Derrick! Just know that you can and likely will get an occasional rub of the tire on the wheel well liner with 235s. At the limits (turned and loaded suspension) there is just the slightest scuff of my 225s (on +47 offset wheels). If you have +40mm offset 17" wheels you will be similar to mine.

Oct 4, 2002 - 03:00 - From: Alex
Title: 2.5 - 3 inch Exhaust
Message: Anyone recommend where to get one of these oversized exhausts in the UK? - are they excessively noisy? Cheers Alex

Oct 4, 2002 - 04:01 - From: Philbo
Title: Exhausts
Message: Alex, do you want a fat tailpipe, a less restrictive backbox or a complete system? Fat tailpipes you can get from anywhere and do virtually nothing. Less restrictive backboxes in S/S can be obtained from lots of places, but try SJ Sportscars. The best complete system I know of is the Paul Matty Sportscars system, 2.5" in S/S from the downpipe, straight through silencer for £400 fitted. Only available for SE's though (not S2's).

Oct 4, 2002 - 05:57 - From: PaulN
Title: High Rev at gear change
Message: Hi guys, Im not sure if this is a problem or not so here goes, I've noticed when the stereo is off (not very often) when I change gear I hear a whizzing noise like reving the engine out of gear. This could most likely be down to short journeys and the car hasn't warmed up properly. Any idea's or confirmation would be great. cheers PaulN

Oct 4, 2002 - 06:11 - From: Owen
Title: Revving out of gear
Message: PaulN, i have the same thing, the car revs when changing up. I find that it stops after the car has warmed up, so i assume it's due to the richer mixture used when cold. I'd have thought an ECU would be programmed to account for this though? Still, it doesn't seem to do any harm, so I wouldn't lose any sleep over it!

Oct 4, 2002 - 07:49 - From: Laurence
Title: High Rev at gear change
Message: Paul, if it's just a noise and not the actual engine rev's building. I think you may be describing the noise the Turbo makes when it stalls temporarily on changing gear or sometimes just on deceleration. This is quite common on the Elan and not necessarily a problem. This does not happen if you fit a dump valve or re-circulating/by-pass valve - which is a good idea if you don't have one. Laurence

Oct 4, 2002 - 08:30 - From: Owen
Title: tyre pressures
Message: I'm sure that this has been asked before, but what tyre pressures should i be running - i've got the S2 wheels and tyres on an SE Turbo - is it 26.5psi front and rear? I'm only talking about normal road use, so don't want too harsh a ride that you can get from higher pressures!

Oct 4, 2002 - 15:58 - From: SD
Title: isuzuperformance parts
Message: Does anyone have Bill's upper intercooler pipe w/ valve? I was wondering if it had variable pipe diameter or is it merely a bent pipe. Any comments on the which valve to buy with it? Thanks:)

Oct 4, 2002 - 16:58 - From: Dave M.
Title: intercooler pipe
Message: I have Bill's pipe. The diameter is different at both ends of the pipe as the throttle body opening is slightly larger (~2.5") than the pipe coming from the IC (~2"). I have the larger HKS valve but it appears under less than 1 bar of boost either the standard or larger valve would work just fine. Above 1 bar *may* be an issue as the valve may open under serious boost (I'm in the process of testing this now-but not by choice!). Bill thought it would open (hence the different HP ratings he gives). If you're not planning on running more than 1 bar, go with the standard. It'll fit a little easier in the engine compartment, too. Can you still get one? Beware of promises from Bill...I'd get a definite delivery date before sending any money.

Oct 5, 2002 - 07:59 - From: Alex
Title: exhaust
Message: Philbo, Back box and pipe gone, so thought might as well get a full system and boost that power at the same time. Straight through job sounds good, but don't want to set too much noise, Cheers Alex

Oct 5, 2002 - 09:05 - From: Don Ferrario
Title: bov valves
Message: Re the selection of bov, like several others here I am using the Bosch OEM part. It costs about $30US. It works great, and is OEM for Saab and Porsche.

In installing the valve, it actually can go in either way, as it simply opens and closes. I installed it so the valve spring is *not* holding against the boost pressure. That is, on my car the pressure side comes into the side port of the valve. It really doesn't matter if I'm running 10psi or 100, the spring doesn't see it. If the pressure was extreme, I suppose the valve could stick from side load, but that hasn't been the case.

With all the discussion about which spring to use on the racing valves, I assume those are installed with the spring holding the valve shut against boost pressure. I suppose installing it that way would mean that pressure might make the valve open quicker, as boost pressure would push one side, and vacuum would pull the other - but my installation works just great. For a short while, I ran it the output open, so I knew every time it opened. Well, it opened every time I was in and out of the gas, even slightly in normal driving - not just on shifting. To me, that means it's working optimally.

Installed my way, spring pressure doesn't need to be great, as it isn't working against the boost. It closes very fast.

I do seriously believe that any bov output should be ducted back into the air cleaner or a second air filter if that is easier for you. When the valve closes, I believe there will be some short time (probably 1/10 sec or less) where air will be sucked back in through the valve. That would be unfiltered air, going right into the throttle body. If you were driving in a dusty environment, that would be enough to cause wear or damage over time. I ducted mine back into the original air cleaner box. The outside of the box is the air flow *after* the filter element, so it simply goes around the air plumbing racetrack. If that isn't possible with your valve, you could always rig up a small filter element. One possibility I thought of, is the old "breather element" used on Chevy's back in the 60's and 70's. It's a simple foam filter that was mounted inside the air cleaner, with a rubber hose to the crankcase ventilation valve. Those are typically around $2US. The model is an FB-59 AC filter. That filter had nipple on it that fit a hose of about 1/2" ID. It would be easy to duct that to the output of any BOV.

Oct 5, 2002 - 09:18 - From: Don Ferrario
Title: bov follow-up
Message: Follow-up to my message above... Probably would not be a good idea to use the FB-59 on the bov output. Yes, it would filter the air that got sucked in, but when the bov output is dumped, it likely would blow the foam element right out of the FB-59!

Oct 6, 2002 - 01:40 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Bosch BOV
Message: Follow this link for an interesting account of using a Bosch BOV, and an inexpensive alternative, often these used BOV's can be found on E-Bay, but for peace of mind I'd go for the new part. http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov.html 

Oct 6, 2002 - 09:49 - From: Robert Veltz
Title: lamp holders
Message: Does anyone know where I can get side marker lamp holders for my M-100? It appears that larger wattage bulbs were installed at some point and melted only the lamp sockets. The lenses seem to be ok. Thanks, Bob

Oct 7, 2002 - 03:49 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: RE: Pressures (Owen)
Message: S2's tire pressure is 29 psi both f/r...

Oct 7, 2002 - 06:40 - From: Brian
Title: Esprit Sports 350 Magnesio rims: What size are they?
Message: Esprit Sports 350 Magnesio rims: What size are they? I wnat to get them and then adapt them for my Elan M100. Also, if you know the tire size they need let me know. Thanks.

Oct 7, 2002 - 07:00 - From: Brains
Title: RE: Brian
Message: Brian, Do you type in the Dark, or were your eyes closed?

Oct 7, 2002 - 11:04 - From: James Flack
Title: Hi-Spec Brakes
Message: Last week I experienced complete brake failure in the Elan (foot straight to floor – thought I’d hit the clutch pedal!). Fortunately it occurred where I had enough time and space to slow the Elan without external assistance (cars, trees, walls etc). Found there to be no fluid in the reservoir (no tell-tale light warning) so put more in only to find it was quickly draining by the front left wheel. On inspection found the hose had been ripped away from both fixings. The coil that Hi-Spec fitted to provide extra protection for the hose had ironically caused it’s failure. The hose had been mis-directed through, rather than past, the suspension fork positioning it right next to the driveshaft. The end of the coil must have attached itself to the shaft, wrapped itself around it a few times before giving the entire hose a catastrophic tug. Since the other side is perfectly fine and the hose is positioned past the suspension I put Hi-Spec in the clear on this and suspect that when the local garage took the suspension apart to sort the geometry they misplaced the hose when putting it back together. I recommend that anyone with this upgrade checks the position of the hose after any work which has remote potential to misplace it. Undecided as to whether it’s a good idea to keep the coil on the other hose now. Cheers.

Oct 7, 2002 - 12:10 - From: jeremy
Title: side repeaters
Message: Robert, I fitted clear side repeaters with orange bulbs from Demon Tweeks (www) this weekend. They look great. They are the same as the metro - montego - maestro units.

Oct 7, 2002 - 12:15 - From: jeremy
Title: James Flack
Message: Sh*t man,... close one!

Oct 7, 2002 - 12:57 - From: Ian
Title: Hi-Spec Brakes
Message: Er... that sounds extremely scary.... I don't suppose you could take some photos of this could you so I can compare against my own setup. I've had the Hi Spec brakes for about a year now but this has got me rather concerned

Oct 7, 2002 - 17:30 - From: Lotus Judge
Title: Hi-Spec Brakes
Message: Words almost fail me. You did tell your insurer that you were changing the brakng system I suppose?
Was there an accurate assesment of the design requirements and method of installation made as 4 pot calipers with huge pads do not necessarily mean "better brakes"
Does the supplier really have the ability to competantly engineer a new brake caliper into an existing vehicle without introducing other unwanted side effects?
Believe me you almost certainly haven't found them all just yet.
Brake development takes months and months of work, even going out and fitting an AP or Brembo Formula 1 caliper costing some thousands of pounds each to the Elan is no guarantee of performance and in a matter of weeks would almost certainly offer lower braking performance than the original installation.
Bear in mind the standard braking system has been properly engineered so that the brake hose at its mid point is restrained to the top wishbone to avoid such circumstances. and with a standard installations there is no way you could fit the hose through the front damper yoke. A single spring, with no mid point restraint is absolutely no way to fit a front brake hose on the Elan.
It is quite evident that two scenarios are possible:
The original engineering of the Hi-Spec Brakes was faulty or whoever fitted them did so incorrectly.
When will people realise that engineering is a complex task and that in uprating your braking system you might have had a manslaughter charge brought against you.

Oct 7, 2002 - 17:47 - From: Doug
Title: postings
Message: Banter is fine, but if you can't leave your name and identify your beef, then you can be censored if needed. We don't need name calling. It is clear that James understands his problem and what happened. Perhaps the faulty telltale light is the culprit? It is clear you have never seen the design of the single-piston slider mechanism of the Elan. What R&D can you confirm on printed paper about any companies upgrades for the Elan or other cars? Unlikely. Yes they may do 110% of everything possible or they may just size them and install? Also, finding a competent mechanic these days is like finding a law-abiding policeman or a non-crooked lawyer. I can show you the scars on my car resulting from "factory trained Lotus mechanics" performing service on it! I like how you just point the finger at everything and hide behind stupid names . . . (end of discussion, by the way!!)

Oct 7, 2002 - 19:36 - From: very happy
Title: kill the CAT
Message: I have recently done the upgraded exhaust using Bill Sun's PreCat eliminator, 2.5 piping, hi flo cat, and Magnaflo free flo muffler. Was it worth it? Well, it sounded better, there was an improvement @ over 3500 Rpm's and @ speeds over 45 mph, but they were slight. Nowhere night and day, worth the $900 cost, only if you had something in the exhaust chain that was in need of fixing. Well as fate would have it, something came loose in the exhaust system this weekend. I brought it back to the shop (nameless to protect them) and they found a piece of the Hi Flo CAT came loose. That was odd since it was in for only 3weeks..long story short, I got them to remove the CAT (only legal for off road, where I live) and there is a tremendous all around, no doubt about it improvement over the entire RPM range. My car is faster, and altho I haven't timed it, I am almost certain 0-50 has been improved significantly. If you can find a shop or don't need a CAT, it brings the exhaust upgrade from the "something to do when something needs fixing"...to "must do to get the most out of your Elan"

Oct 7, 2002 - 22:31 - From: Don Ferrario
Title: brake hose saga
Message: James, your story struck home with me just today. I am in the process of completing a brake upgrade from Dave Turner, in CA, using Wilwood components. We've been struggling with fitments, because I'm using the stock 16" wheels. The cars Dave has previously done all had aftermarket wheels. We originally tried to use 13.2" rotors (335mm), but ended up with 12.7" (320mm). I'm just starting to drive the car now, and I'll have a more complete report for you all later.

Anyway...the reason for this comment here, is that we almost had a similar brake hose dilemma. In moving the car around the shop, we heard a clicking sound. Since we had been having clearance problems with the wheel spokes, we thought it was that - but didn't see anything. After some time, we finally found it. We had fixed the brake hoses through the original suspension bracket, but one wasn't hanging just the right way. The noise was one of the wheel balance weights touching the braided hose when the wheel was turned far to the right.

We discovered our error before any road testing began - but I can see how you'd better pay special attention to such things when you begin modifications.

Oct 7, 2002 - 23:30 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: very happy
Message: You've just re-validated why European cars tend to overboost with performance exhausts while US cars do not. Cars, especially those with dual cat converters and turbos, benefit the most from removal of legally mandated exhaust restrictions. I've noticed this on many cars I've owned, the Elan being just one of them. The difference, surprisingly enough, was most striking on a Triumph TR8 and least so on a Nissan 300Z. The difference in each case hinged on how much time and money the OE manufacturer spent in getting the original exhaust to flow. The 300Z OE exhaust was primarily not even made from regular exhaust TUBING, but was custom cast in exotic shapes for almost its entire length. They must have killed all the bean counters in the room to get away with making it.

Oct 7, 2002 - 23:58 - From: Andy Y
Title: Engrish or English
Message: You tell'em Doug! Very well worded too. Not everyone has a BS in English. Seems Mr. Anonymous doesn't realize that you don't have to capitalize after a comma. May I ask why you cap the D in dark? Perhaps your intention was to merely emphasize the word dark? Not as effective as possibly underlining, putting quotations, or parenthesis. Hek, I catch myself doing the same thing as Brian. Seems liek our brains wokr fasters thna our fingners sometiems...Who knows, with the recent anonymous postings, we just might have to assign everyone a password. Or just ignore it and have Doug edit once in a while...Don't wanna give mystery man the satisfation. Thanks for letting me vent.

Oct 8, 2002 - 01:12 - From: Mark
Title: paint
Message: found a great website for buying touch-up paint, www.paintscratch.com  for my elan, the website showed a yellow, but it wasn't the right color. So i sent in the OEM norfolk yellow paint code and ICI formula # (courtesy of Doug) and ordered a small bottle of brush-on paint. for my old ford van, they reproduced the OEM color in an aerosol spray can. both cases, the colors matched about as close to original as i could have asked for. They turned around the orders very quick also - was delivered in about 3 days.

Oct 8, 2002 - 03:44 - From: Philbo
Title: Lotus Judge
Message: Ha! Some "Judge" you turned out to be. I was one of the first (if not the first) to install the HiSpec system as the Elan braking system is quite simply not competitive with modern braking systems, and completely gives up on the track. If you try and assert otherwise you will just look more like a fool.

As the first customer, HiSpec had my car for a good few days while they tried different configurations. It was not a "one design fits all" approach. And, despite your stupid assertions, having a decent sized pad pressing equally from both sides onto a decent disc does actually make "better brakes" in nearly every case. The installers would have to be total arseholes to do a worse job than the old Elan standard items, and HiSpec are no arseholes. They wouldn't be recommended for so much clubman racing systems if they were. As for "in a matter of weeks the braking system would revert to worse than the original", care to explain just HOW this would be the case? Are you saying AP Racing calipers are no good, that the pads will fall off or that the discs will disintegrate? I've had my HiSpec gear for more than a year and it's as good now as the day it was fitted...can't say that for my "standard" Elan brakes as certain parts of those needed continual overhauling. I checked my installation minutely when I got it and my brake lines are in no such danger of fouling anything. You obviously decided to completely ignore the fact that the installation in James' case was almost certainly due to another third party incorrectly routing the lines after maintenance.

You say that words almost fail you. I wish they had completely failed you. Apart from scaremongering your post is full of FUD and misinformation. And yes, I have informed my insurance company of the change of brakes. Finally, as for manslaughter charges, I suspect that there are many more Elan drivers unwittingly driving around with zero rear brakes because the standard items are so prone to seizing. I wouldn't argue with most of the engineering work on the Elan but I really don't think that the original designers would stand up now and say that the standard fit braking system is the best you could fit to your car.

Oct 8, 2002 - 06:41 - From: owen
Title: wobbly seat
Message: Still whiling away my working day by thinking of jobs that need doing to the car! - My seat backs, driver and passenger, have quite a bit of play in it, and will rotate forwards and backwards quite a way. Is this normal? Because I have the seat adjusted fully rearwards, the back of the seat rubs against the B-post trim, and squeaks. I am on a mission to rid my car of squeaks, and this is the number 1 culprit!!

Oct 8, 2002 - 06:46 - From: owen
Title: the quest continues...
Message: On the quest for a rattle-free way of life, i'm missing a few fasteners for the trim around the steering column, between the wheel and the dash. Does anyone know where the lotus parts list for this is, as i've looked on the site and can't find it in the interior trim section, and don't really fancy going through several million tif files to try to find it. Also, does anyone have an easier version of the parts manual, or some sort of index to it?

Oct 8, 2002 - 07:04 - From: James Flack
Title: Lotus Judge
Message: These boards are a tremendously valuable resource to owners when they are used properly ie for sharing experiences and helping others out with problems which would be tough to solve otherwise. I would probably have given up on Elan ownership by now if not for them. They are unfortunately occassionally blighted by individuals who have nothing better to do than make groundless/ill-founded comments and accusations in an attempt to entice unnecessary conflict whilst hiding behind false identities. Is it too much to ask to properly read others' notes before responding to them and to identify yourself so that genuine concerns can be debated further? Words clearly failed you long before you even started writing your response as you failed to comprehend the english of my original note. Doug and Philbo have covered most of what I wanted to say so I just want to mention a few things. Firstly, Hi-Spec is a well established and reputable brake system SPECIALIST not some tinpot part-time cowboy operation you seem to imagine it to be. Is it not conceivable to you that braking technology has moved on since 1990 and that a brake specialist is able to improve on original design taking into account original design considerations and more still?? Seeing as you are a Lotus expert, perhaps you can tell me how many design changes were implemented on the Elan between the first and final production vehicles? Or was the first one absolutely perfect when it rolled off the production line? 10 years on we still see high volume production cars from the biggest manufacturing names recalled on safety grounds - the TT is a fine example. Hi-Spec correctly fitted the hose in the same manner as the standard Lotus one (to the top wishbone). In addition they have engineered calipers that not only offer LONG TERM improved braking performance over the originals but also don't require constant TLC to keep them functioning (btw it was failure of the original calipers which was the catalyst for me upgrading them). I clearly stated in my earlier posting (please re-read) that it was a third party whose unwitting misplacement of the hose was to blame. I would absolutely still recommend Hi-Spec to anyone thinking of upgrading their braking system my only concern is the coil placed around the hose. In normal circumstances it would appear that this is perfectly fine but any misplacement of the hose can be dangerous in what might very well have been exceptional circumstances in my case. My note was merely recommending that regular inspection should be made of the fitting which is applicable to every other system of the car whether standard Lotus specification or not. Ian - I will try and get some photos done this weekend (too dark when I get home from work these days). Doug - The tell-tale light did come on but after the event. I imagine that the light is only triggered by fluid level in the resevoir?? Since this was full before the event not enough fluid could have been lost until some time after the hose broke.

Oct 8, 2002 - 07:36 - From: Paul D
Title: Not breaks again
Message: Yep, I have had my car for a month now, turned the boost up fitted a bailey dump valve, all I need to do now is stop the car?... I fitted greenstuff to the front, with new sliders as oneside was seized and flushed the system with new dot 4 fluid. 300 miles later, Its still not right, they must be better than this, I cant lock the breaks, the first part of the peddle feels fine then it seam to hit a hard wall, Its slows down well but from other cars I have had it is not up to scratch, The back pads need changing (look like they have seized), do you think this will help with stopping. or is it the Master Cylinder ( i hope not it costs a bomb). Thanks...I have done all the above jobs from info on this site. Paul

Oct 8, 2002 - 08:04 - From: Andrew
Title: Brakes
Message: Hi Paul. My brakes work in exactly the same way as you mention. My local Lotus garage have told me that the front calipers need a full over haul to get them anywhere near where they should be. With this in mind I am going to go for the Hi-Spec solution later, probably early next year. From what I have heard/established the master cylinder is the problem with this system, the main culprits are the front calipers, as they do most of the work in the Elan.

Oct 8, 2002 - 08:53 - From: Dave M.
Title: master cylinder
Message: When researching my current braking system, I read that some felt the master cylinder wasn't up to the task of supplying enough pressure to lock the fronts. While it may be the case with OEM sized pads, this is not totally true (at least with a MC that is working properly). I can lock at will with various types of pads. For the record (so I don't fear the rath of any attorneys), my brakes are stock Lotus calipers running stock Lotus pads. I just had an AP Racing caliper housing made to fit over the whole thing. Kinda like "rice" for your brakes. ;) PS- got my computer cable yesterday and will have it wired by the weekend to test things at the track!

Oct 8, 2002 - 09:19 - From: Paul D
Title: Caliper
Message: Is there a kit to overhaul the caliper, or is it worth getting exchanged ones.

Oct 8, 2002 - 09:24 - From: Philbo
Title: Reconditioned calipers
Message: Paul, you can get reconditioned ones (try SJ Sportscars in the UK) but they cost £100+ each for the rears and I'm guessing more than that for the fronts. At that sort of price I'd really suggest going for the HiSpecs, it's a bit more money for a LOT more result.

Oct 8, 2002 - 10:54 - From: Darren
Title: Reconditioned calipers
Message: Very apt thread as the man at Paul Matty's has just advised me that one of my front calipers needs a rebuild, so I've just this minute checked and SJ do a reconditioned front for £52 (+VAT I think). So I can get the stock fronts rebuilt for £140, plus circa £60 for new slotted rotors, circa £40 for new pads, £30 for braided hoses and £7 for Dot5.1 or opt for the HiSpec kit at circa £460 + fitting/VAT. I've got a bit of time to think as the red rocket will be spending the winter months in the garage. Dilemma, Dilemma.

Oct 8, 2002 - 11:08 - From: Darren
Title: Reconditioned calipers/HiSpec Prices
Message: These are the latest HiSpec prices - "" On standard 15" wheels we can offer a 275x24 Billet 4 Kit. The ‘Billet 4’ Kit comprises of: 2 x Cross-Drilled or Grooved Discs 2 x Hi Spec ‘Billet 4’ Calipers 2 x Mounting Brackets 1 x Hardware Pack (all nuts, bolts etc required to fit the kit) This kit costs £420 + VAT Braided Hoses cost £15 per line DOT 5 Fluid is £6 per ltr Fitting costs are £30 per hour and a front kit takes an average of 3-4 hours. Kits do not include pads, as an estimate EBC Greenstuff pads (ideal for fast road use) cost £33. ""

Oct 8, 2002 - 12:03 - From: Mike Lane
Title: Elan Brakes
Message:

Just an introduction I've owned a number of cars from Lotus over the years, an original Elan S3, an Excel, an Esprit GT3 and two M100 Elans. The first having been comprehensively crunched at just less than a thousand miles by a Volvo driver not knowing the limits of his vehicle's performance, the second still going strong at 160000 miles alongside the GT3. I currently work as a freelance design engineer but my background over the past twenty three years is almost exclusively in the brake system field. Previously I have worked as a development engineer for a number of brake manufacturers and more recently on anti-lock and traction control systems at Ford and Jaguar. Seeing the conflict of views on here I feel I must offer my opinion. Despite the preaching from writers in the performance car press and to some extent posters on here the simple expedient of bolting bigger calipers and discs to the front of a vehicle is no guarantee of better performance, for sure you might generate more torque at the disc but that has to be in balance with that generated by the rear and the tyre-road interface has to have enough mechanical grip to ensure inadvertent lock up is not a problem. From what I recall from the Service Notes the Elan went through about three or four changes in the braking system to alter the front - rear balance. This balance under heavy braking is actually quite critical and you can get a feel for what the designer was ultimately trying to achieve by looking at the progresive change in response curves of the proportioning valves, something that incidentally very rarely makes it into the public domain. There are lots of design parameters that can affect the performance of the brakes both initially and when subject to wear. What might at first seem like a compromised factory fit braking system may well have been done for very good reasons besides the obvious that people seem to jump for - saving money. By apparently improving one area of performance you can inadvertently cause problems in another. In simple terms the direct replacement of a caliper of differing mechanical dimensions without a change to the proportioning valves and / or master cylinder could, in some circumstances, be dangerous. You might only find out about this under extreme conditions, exactly the situation where you need to know before the event exactly what the brake system will do. An end user might try to test the system with a few rapid stops and it would appear ok on a flat road, but change that to an incline, an adverse camber or with partial rear wheel unloading and you could have a brake inbalance that leads to a loss of control of the vehicle. Without looking at the Hi Spec design in detail and comparing it against the original caliper it would be difficult to criticise it and from what has been said it would appear to be a competent design. But the system needs application engineering to make even the best design fit for use. If the caliper is, as I believe it to be, an off the shelf design that 'fits all' then the caliper could introduce unwanted nuances into the braking system and in extremis possibly compromise the upright integrity. For instance the cylinder area and swept volume of the caliper may differ significantly from the original causing balance, feel and wear problems. The quoted example from the 'Judge' of the F1 caliper not being suitable for road use is actually true. All too often brake systems are incorrectly specified in the aftermarket. A few weeks service on the road in the wrong environment could easily see the F1 caliper braking system degrade to the point at which it was worse than the standard road caliper in every respect, maybe to the point of total failure. What might be exceptionally good on the track is, in almost all circumstances, not suitable for extended use on the road. The standard system is not quite right in my eyes, but despite my background [maybe in spite of !] I see no reason to fundamentally change it as it is perfectly suited to road use and the occasional track day. Sliding caliper systems are not perfect by any means but regular use and more importantly the use of correct lubricant on the slide pins makes a huge difference to performance. I have, however, moved away from the original front pads to a modified compound pad from my former employer for two reasons. One the original Lotus front pads lack initial feel and progression in slow speed situations and two, I get them cheap via an old colleague. Mike Lane

Oct 8, 2002 - 12:32 - From: Doug
Title: brakes
Message: Mike, so then it appears you are the 'judge', though you never admitted it??? Well if so then it is much better to just post as you did now. Interesting how you and the judge share the same post formatting skills? I will point out that the brake parts on the Elan are, well, ALL G.M. "off the shelf" parts! I'm sure extensive design changes went into transforming Astra brakes into Lotus parts; and those rear calipers, well we all heard about the class-action lawsuit in the US about them a few months ago. Surely, there is more about brakes that I don't know than that which I do know, but still with the knowledge I have I feel even I can design a better front brake set-up than the OE one! It is all just physics: pressure, flow, friction, area, torque, heat, etc. Interesting how the AP upgrade kit pads are the same or maybe smaller than the OE pads too. Here I'm sure the evenly balanced clamping force of the 4 pots is plenty the reason they work so much better. If you honestly think that Lotus did any more Elan brake development than slapping on some "off the shelf" G.M. parts and then test driving around their circuit to test them out, then you are naive in your wisdom. Please remind us about all the factory support to us Elan owners and all the great performance parts developed to enhance our cars by Lotus. All that said, welcome to the site and it looks like you may have some valuable info to pass on.

Oct 8, 2002 - 13:10 - From: Lotus Loopy
Title: brakes
Message: Not even close to the mark Doug, the real Judge would never reveal their true identity. To keep this almost on topic the front calipers might at first glance have the appearance of a standard GM offering but they aren't. You already have sufficient information to hand to discover that for yourself. There is lots of good info in Mike's posting though, but I do know he's not been near the M100's braking system other than as an owner. Mike, we met once at SIEPG if you remember? '87 or '88 BTD?

Oct 8, 2002 - 14:06 - From: Doug
Title: waste of time
Message: Mike, sorry about the accusations, but the similarities and timing is still interesting. And to the other, I don't think we care what you have to say.

Oct 8, 2002 - 15:00 - From: stephen reid
Title: different brake story
Message: thanks for the advice philbo but in the end i decided to go for a pair of sports/grooved discs, greenstuff front pads and a s/s braided hose kit. i bought it all from www.christopherneil.co.uk (both online and over the phone). they were very helpful and the whole lot cost £177 inc vat and post to paisley. my local garage fitted the kit and now my brakes are great. they feel more resposive and progresive now and much more confidence inspiring than the standard. now that it can stop faster i can turn my attention to making the car go faster. cheers, stephen. ps. does anyone know if lotus ever made a boot lid mounted luggage rack like the ones i have seen on the elise, problem is i can fit my snowboard in. cheers again stephen

Oct 8, 2002 - 16:40 - From: Philbo
Title: Brakes
Message: Mike, I bow to your superior experience, although I was taking contention with the fact that an AP Racing kit would degrade within weeks rather than an F1 braking setup. Obviously the F1 braking system isn't appropriate.

However I would be really interested to understand exactly how a braking system that provides better feel, more stopping power and less fade could be so compromised. What are these limits that would cause it to suddenly behave so much worse than the standard items? And I would like to understand how a "better" system would degrade to be worse than the originals. What engineering aspects are involved?

Oct 9, 2002 - 00:15 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: Annonymous blowhards...
Message: Doug, as I sent you the info last year, the calipers are IDENTICAL to the models I listed! (IE, Pontiac Lemans 2.0 GSE....rears to countless others) I have had them side by side, and in fact the ONLY way I was able to match them up with a U.S. model is by the CASTING NUMBERS stamped into the caliper itself! Further, the slider pins as well as the piston are EXACT matches. There is NO difference whatsoever! This guy is (as usual) a blowhard trying to look smart. Incidentally, doesn't AOL give you control over IP addresses & access? Joshua Lawrence

Oct 9, 2002 - 04:33 - From: Steve P
Title: Postings
Message: Guy's I think it's important that boards such as these allow for "open" discussion - otherwise you just end up with a core of regular posters and informed progress is slow! Anyone with engineering experience should be welcomed with open arms, particularly when they are prepared to put time and effort into an informed posting such as Mike's. I've recently carried out a complete overhaul/replacement on my cars standard calipers and have to say the brakes are really quite effective - once they are working properly! I checked through the braking efficiencies using the MOT results on all the cars I've owned and the Elan is now as good as or better than them all (Opel/Honda/Mazda/Mitsubishi).

Oct 9, 2002 - 04:55 - From: Steve P
Title: "Standard"
Message: Just to clarify "Standard"! Standard system with the exception of EBC front discs + Greenstuff pads - they do push up the braking efficiency.

Oct 9, 2002 - 05:07 - From: Owen
Title: brake debate
Message: I'm not against people modifying their cars, and i don't want to antagonise anyone who has done so, but I think Mike Lane made an important point - a braking system is designed as exactly that - a system - and changing some components will affect the operation of other components within that system. Doug, I really don't want to offend, but if you think that the extent of Lotus' brake design was to "slap on some off the shelf GM parts and drive it round a test track" then I don't agree - just because a part was chosen off the shelf, doesn't mean it isn't ideally suited to a different application. For instance, the front calipers were probably taken off the UK Astra GTE because of both cars being of similar weight (Elan 1020kg, Astra 1032kg). To tailor the system to the weight distribution of the Elan, the brake proportioning valves would be designed accordingly, taking into account the rear braking power available. So any changes to the front brakes is immediately going to upset the braking balance of the vehicle. I think to slag off Lotus for simply "slapping on GM brakes", and then to advocate massive aftermarket calipers without considering their effect on the remainder of the braking system, is slightly hypocritical. I'm certainly not saying that the original braking system is great, but I personally would not attempt to alter it without considering the system as a whole. By the way, I have a degree in Automotive Engineering, so am not just talking out of my @rse just to fuel this argument! (but it does pass the time!)

Oct 9, 2002 - 05:12 - From: owen
Title: Steve P
Message: just read Steve P's message, and agree entirely - the stock brakes are actually pretty powerful. The fact that people have complained about poor feel (assuming that their system is working optimally, as steve suggests) is probably more an issue of servo assistance as opposed to caliper design. I think this is exacerbated when comparing the Elan with new cars, which in some cases (in my experience the Alfa 156 is a good example) have extremely sensitive, over-assisted brakes. Whilst these brakes may feel more effective, this does not necessarily mean that they will stop the car any quicker.

Oct 9, 2002 - 05:17 - From: Darren
Title: Rear Brakes
Message: Joshua, I'm trying to track down the donor origins of the Elan rear brakes and would be interested in your findings i.e Pontiac Lemans 2.0 GSE. I also read somewhere that they could also be off a '87 Chevvy Lumina or a GM "wide body" (what ever that is). Mine will need an overhaul next year and I was wondering what my options are open to me, as the man at Paul Matty advised me that the only repair kits he can get hold of are from Lotus directly and we all know what their mark up is. Also, I noted that SJ's rear re-build price has gone up to £106.12 + VAT.

Oct 9, 2002 - 05:26 - From: Alan
Title: Contradictory opinions
Message: I'm with Steve P on this. I think people with opinions or thoughts against the general trend of the group should not be discouraged - especially if they have relevant background/experience. The fact that some of these postings also come with a payload of petty sniping perhaps does more to detract from the poster's message than anything else - its easier to ignore an unpopular opinion expressed in that way. Brakes ARE kind of important. Last time I was having my own troublesome (stock) brakes examined at Foulds Motors I had a chat with Chris Foulds about the Elan's brakes and he reckons that well maintained they are good brakes - even for track days - and he doesn't fit any upgrades (although I have sent him details of the Hi-spec brakes for his perusal). Having said that my standard brakes are being nothing but trouble (new front discs & brake piston (front offside caliper sticking), another new brake piston (the seals went on the replacement - went back to the manufacturer as faulty), new rear calipers are required soon as the handbrake is past maximum adjustment, scraped through MOT with pull to right (probably shouldn't have, its lethal under heavy braking) so its back to Foulds Motors.

Oct 9, 2002 - 05:50 - From: Jeremy
Title: The Judge
Message: I could be wrong, but if my hunch is right, Isuzuperformance arent too busy at the moment.

Oct 9, 2002 - 07:39 - From: James Flack
Title: Can of Worms
Message: Starting to wish I'd kept this brake experience to myself!! I hope, and believe, however, that despite the heated debate it ha caused it was correct to post it since its purpose was to make people a little bit more informed about Elan. I appreciate Mike Lane's posting 100% - it is his opinion and he is willing to identify himself to allow follow-up discussion to take place. I come to this board to learn as much as I can about the car I drive and postings, whether based on opinion or fact (as long as they're constructive), allow and help me to do that. There will always be people who want to upgrade the car and others who don't and I think this is fine so long as they respect and appreciate each others opinions and support each other in Elan ownership. Back to the debate then! I would argue that unless the driver has tested the standard car to the limit he cannot know exactly how the car is going to react in an on-the-limit situation anyway, and thus the situation is similar with upgraded brakes. Drivers should always ensure that they drive within their own and their car's limits and should assume the responsibility of appreciating the differences upgrades make by testing the new setup of the car thoroughly. I recall having seen a number of postings of potentially dangerous on-the-limit characteristics encountered in completely stock cars. These may be deemed perfectly safe characteristics to a manufacturers test driver under optimum conditions (of vehicle components) but they are inherently made dangerous by driver (in)experience and the age and condition of all the components on the car. Also, I believe that the brake balance is little altered with higher performance front brakes because the balance is so biased on the Elan anyway. This is particularly true of my car where the rears develop considerably less than the 30% force (or whatever the exact figure is) that they are meant to (without adverse side effects I should add). I would also like to point out that Hi-Spec do not just develop brakes for the track and them sell them to customers for road going cars (the F1 brakes example). Hi-Spec adapt their racing caliper design for the road taking into consideration such factors as the need for proper dust sealing to ensure that performance doesn't degrade over extended periods of time. BTW, I've discovered Mr 'Lotus Judge' had a posting in the August 2002 archives (on brakes again) as Mr 'Lots of Trouble' - look for the phrase "words almost fail me" in both). Could this be a lead to discovering his identity?

Oct 9, 2002 - 07:55 - From: Philbo
Title: Brakes
Message: As most reasonable people do, I welcome informed information and opinions. And, without gainsaying anything that is said about the engineering aspects of the Elan standard system, all I can say is that my experience of the standard system (which was well maintained and fully operational) over the years is that it pales by comparison to the HiSpec setup I have now. Stopping distances are far shorter, with a more positive feel and they don't fade. I have photographic evidence of what a hard track day did to the standard system, and it isn't pretty. It just isn't up to the task of hauling down a 1 ton car from speed repetitively - end of story. I drive my car pretty hard (in safe, off-public-road areas) and have yet to come across any deficiencies in my braking setup.

While I fully accept that a braking system is just that, and is engineered to the car (and a price), I would still like an explanation of the engineering aspects that would cause a new system to "degrade and become worse than the original items". It is just my experience that the originals performed worse and degraded themselves far more quickly than almost any aftermarket system would! Apart from that, maintenance on the HiSpec system is about 1000 times easier than the originals.

Oct 9, 2002 - 08:07 - From: PaulN
Title: Brakes..
Message: Hi Guys, Just adding my thoughts on this whole matter. I agree with Alan, having ago at each other doesn't help much, but it makes a really good read during work, and i'm sure everyone involved enjoys flexing their typing finger and smilling while having a dig at someone else. Concerning the standard brakes I don't go round like a mad man but they seem OK. Like everyone i've had problems. But on the whole the standard brakes are fine for a car with the standard performance. wouldn't it make sense though to improve your brake system when your performance is improved? And finally A top of the range Elan Cost £30k similar to a boxster costing £30-35k, how do these two's standard brakes systems compare? Not too good. So to sum the Elan brakes up "Not the best in the class, trys hard but could do better". PaulN

Oct 9, 2002 - 08:35 - From: Laurence
Title: Contradictory opinions
Message: I agree with Steve and Alan, as long as people refrain from personal criticisms and insults! This week I heard on the news that a UK company chairman is taking legal action against some of his company's shareholders that he claims have been making libellous/untrue statements about him/the company on a financial web site bulletin board! On the braking front, quite a few folks on this board seem to have modified cars (with much increased power output) that get regular and hard track use. I think it's understandable that the standard braking system and pads are not necessarily going to be optimised for this kind of use. Laurence

Oct 9, 2002 - 09:01 - From: Darren
Title: While we're on the subject of brakes.
Message: For starters, good wholesome conversation never hurt anyone and I agree with the majority that personal attacks should be performed off line i.e via email. Now, I was wonder if you engineering techies could answer a question for me, I've been looking at the Hi-Spec upgrade for sometime but have been waiting for my current system to give in before shelling out. My concern is more to do with fluid capacity i.e the current master cylinder is an Elan specific item (?), the front calipers are single piston, so put simply, is there enough brake fluid capacity to operate four pistons ? Ok the four pistons are physically smaller than the single piston but do the four use the same capacity as the one and if not could this be a problem ? I'm not an expert, hence why I'm hanging around this site for answers. BTW great site, great people, don't lets spoil that. Darren.

Oct 9, 2002 - 09:02 - From: Dave M.
Title: good discussion!
Message: Just for the record, the AP kit I have is a road kit with dust seals. Thanks for the info Mike, and glad to have you on board. You make a good point about the braking system, and I think that "system" could be expanded to include the suspension, tires, etc. The Elan has a soft, compliant, yet sporty suspension. This is great for a comfortable ride and spirited handling, but when pushed, rolls heavily. The front end dives pretty good under braking, too. This suspension behavior has to be taken into account in the brakes. The serious weight transfer necessitates a lighter rear bias or the rears would lock under the unweighting. One of my goals is to firm up the suspension with some higher spring rates and install an adjustable proportioning valve for track use. To me, the fact I've gone through 6 sets of front pads and am still on the stock rears indicates a design and performance compromise (my rears have been tested and operate properly, BTW). Will I affect the car's wonderful balance and forgiveness in doing this? Most likely. Will it improve? I won't know until I try. Then you all will know. As for tires, the AP kit works wonderfully with the sticky Kumhos now. The locking threshold is much higher now. Again, one "system" change affected others. My dive is worse and I needed new tires to appreciate the brakes. I know there are those against upgrading to the extent some of us have. For the road, it *is* overkill and would hurt braking performance in some instances (if I left my track pads on for the street, for example). I still say for strictly road, get the calipers rebuilt, use the stock rotors with Greenstuffs, and you'll be very happy. However some of us use our cars in ways the systems weren't engineered for. No wonder the systems fail, and in turn we make compromises. Frankly, I'll never go back to stock brakes (on either of my cars)...but that's my experience. More power to everyone else as it provides us more options and testing of what does and doesn't work. Now if you'll pardon me *Dave steps down from his turn on the soapbox*, I have some Lotus butt to kick at the track this weekend. ;) Should be interesting to see how my times improve as it's the first track I've been back to since the power and brake improvements. I should be near 20 psi, too!

Oct 9, 2002 - 09:08 - From: Dave M.
Title: fluid capacity
Message: Darren, good point. Someone may correct me, but I think there is plenty of capacity. I ran my front pads down to nothing (not by choice, mind you) and found even with all 8 front pistons fully extended, there was still fluid left in the reservoir. As long as that's the case, I can't see any problems.

Oct 9, 2002 - 10:06 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: brakes, identity
Message: My car has not even rolled up 30k miles yet. The brakes are functioning perfectly with original pads, etc. I have Greenstuff pads waiting in the wings for when replacement is due. Based on my car's condition I am in a position to comment on the original braking performance of the Elan. To call the stock brakes "powerful" is laughable. The brakes on my Maserati were powerful, the 300Z was very good. The Triumph TR8 was adequate. The Elan's brakes remind me of the brakes on my old 1973 Mazda RX-2; you achieve maximum braking and then "float" to a stop. I too welcome any & all opinions, as long as the individual is willing to identify themself. My grandfather was mayor of a small town called Kearney, Nebraska. In the 1930's the Klu Klux Klan applied for a permit to have a parade down main street. My grandfather agreed as long as they did NOT wear their hoods. The Klan was very powerful then, and he lost the next election over that issue. Nevertheless I still agree with him. You stand up as a man and take your shots. It is just the right thing to do. Thanks everyone for your input.

Oct 9, 2002 - 10:31 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: just a question
Message: What is the price of Bill Sun's pre-cat eliminator?

Oct 9, 2002 - 13:14 - From: Steve P
Title: Brake Efficiency
Message: I think it's all too easy to rubbish the standard brakes because their performance fades quickly as the components age. All our cars are at least 6 years old(?) and most a lot more! The bottom line in this is how many kgs of force can the braking system generate relative to the cars weight. Obviously if you're doing track days cooling becomes an issue and the standard system is just not going to cope, that said I've done quite a few track days over the years and providing you keep things sensible and don't bake the system it's OK. Guess I'm not quite in Philbo's league yet ;-) Anyhow, what I'm trying to get around to is this: The standard system gives good efficiency figures 80-90%, now are we saying that modern cars give a much higher figure??? Having driven some of the newer generation cars I find the bias (as others have mentioned) towards high servo assistance on models such as the Audi A4 and Volvo S60 difficult to control in a progressive manner - sometimes you only want to skim off a few mph, not thrust yourself towards the screen at high negative G! It's interesting that the early reviews of the Elan were very complementary about the cars brakes - even a second hand car article I found in a 1997 CAR magazine comparing a used Audi RS2, Elan S2, Merc SEC AMG'd and Porsche 968 Club Sport said this (and I'm not kidding) - "With added miles the brakes have got better too, moving from mush to munch. They're terrific." Now in making this point I'm not trying to defend the brakes - when they are below par they're simply not up to the job and if left unattended can be dam right dangerous - however unless you are doing track days on a regular basis they are in my view nicely matched to the car and give the progressive braking characteristic you'd expect of a sports car. To finish off, the conclusion of the CAR article - "What would I choose? I'd go in search of a Lotus. But I might just come back with a Benz"

Oct 9, 2002 - 13:40 - From: Philbo
Title: Brakes (what else)?
Message: There is another UK owner who did a lot of track days and who used to contend that the brakes were fine and he couldn't see what I was on about when I said that the brakes weren't up to track days. Then he installed a MBC and straight after his next track day ordered the HiSpec gear as suddenly his brakes couldn't cope! Again, I just have to say that my experiences of the Elan standard system was simply that almost any modern car could outbrake it. Under heavy braking, after the initial bite they would bleed off speed gradually until coming to a gradual stop, rather than really losing the speed. I came quite close to rear-ending perfectly ordinary hatches (not even "hot" ones) simply because they outbraked me. Maybe it's because my car's been modified, but I would be scared witless to be driving around in my car now with the stock system.

Oct 9, 2002 - 14:07 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Phil's comments
Message: Here, here Phil. I take extra precautions when driving the Lotus because the car in front of me CAN stop faster than I! Which means I try to leave a cushion or have a means to steer around the other cars. Everyone judges anything based on their other experiences. When I find myself changing my driving style based on a car's brakes that is a major statement! I am hoping when I install the Greenstuff pads (front & rear) I will notice a major improvement, but only putting on 3 or 4 thousand miles a year it might take quite a while to wear the original pads out! Also, as the car does not pull or do anything else undesirable I am loath to mess with the brakes just yet. I am an intelligent interface (YES I am!), and adjusting to the machine is sometimes easier... this from a guy who's made other major mods! What an enigma, eh?

Oct 9, 2002 - 17:08 - From: Don Ferrario
Title: master cylinder capacity
Message: Darren: I have just finished installing Dave Turner's brake kit which uses Wilwood calipers/rotors. As noted previously, my rotors are slightly larger than those HiSpec is normally using, and required a lot of fitting to get them to go inside the stock 16" USA wheels. I am quite familiar with the AP Racing calipers commonly used, and the AP and Wilwood are quite similar. I haven't seen the HiSpec in person, but from photos and description, I am sure all three of these are of similar capacity and fluid volume. (I said similar - not identical - so unnamed contributors, please keep a sock in it)

Anyway, I too shared the concern about master cylinder capacity. We're going from 4 pistons (2 front/2 rear stock) to 10 (8 front / 2 rear). I don't know the amount of fluid each one takes, but it seems reasonable that the new system would require more fluid, for a given amount of piston movement.

In setting up the new system, we did have to work with the bleeding to get every last bit of air out. Of course, you always want to do that, but we had to do it 3 times, to get it right. When bleeding the Elan's brakes, you *must* work the parking brake lever several times to position the rear pistons. If you don't, you won't get a hard pedal (don't ask me why I know this). It's in the service manual. You always read that, don't you?

The result is exactly as we both expected - that is, the brake pedal must travel slightly more before contact is made. It isn't a large amount, and when contact is made, the pedal is good and hard. You get used to the feel in 2 minutes of normal driving, and thereafter don't think anything about it.

So, the short answer is that yes, the stock master cylinder has plenty of capacity. In testing the system, and bedding in the pads, this thing will *really* stop! In a full-on stop from 100mph, the Elan feels like a boat anchor went out. You better brace your body against something in the car. With the weight transfer to the front, there is absolutely no tendency to lock the wheels. In my maximum effort tests, the rears actually would lock first, only because the weight transfer was so great. Regardless, the stopping distance is greatly improved - at least equal to any other street car I've ever driven. I don't normally use my brakes hard - this was only to test.

I'm leaving tomorrow on a 2,000 mile road trip with the Elan, so I'll have a better long term road test when I get back, but for now, I can't imagine any negative side effects. Installation was *not* easy, but only because Dave Turner's previous customers used aftermarket wheels with more clearance. Kits that he ships in the future will include the spacers I ended up using, which will fit the stock wheels, or others.

And, yes, the hydraulic brake line is attached to the upper suspension arm, as original!

Oct 9, 2002 - 17:21 - From: Doug
Title: starting to get tired of brake talk
Message: i can remember vividly how poor my brakes performed from the day I got the car used from a Lotus dealer. I used to drive so far behind the car in front of my just cause my brakes were horrible! FWIW every Elan I have ever seen damaged has front damage from hitting the car in front of it--I do not know what happened in these events but I have always assumed it is most likely due to the poor braking of the car. I agree the parts are not horrible in theory, and it is true that the Elan stopped 60-o in about 115ft when new (I have the video Motorweek evaluation). Regardless, the components do not age well and the designs are prone to getting hung up and poor performance. I was so happy to get the EBC parts in there as they gave me confidence in the brakes so I can drive normally. At the same time I agree that with the go-fast bits on the car that it is still lacking in braking ability. I do plan to address this soon.

Oct 9, 2002 - 18:16 - From: Dave M.
Title: one last bit
Message: FWIW, Dave Schmidt who raced his Elan used the stock brakes with cooling ducts (see the pics of the adjustable Konis under upgrades and you'll see the ducts). His was an N/A model.

Oct 10, 2002 - 05:39 - From: alanshort
Title: I have'nea got de power !!
Message: hi guys. Ive had my elan for about 6months now and am pondering towards a few upgrades. The local lotus dealership is offering the bbr chip for about £550 and a stainless exhaust for £600ish. I'm tempted but it seems a little expensive. I'm looking initially to get a dump value fitted. But, rather than hacking the black rubber pipe i was wondering if anyone knew of a supplier that has a nice shinny stainless steel pipe with dump value for the elan ? cheers A.

Oct 10, 2002 - 05:55 - From: Philbo
Title: Upgrades
Message: Hi Alan, check out this site for upgrade information, although a number of the companies it references (Bill's Isuzuperformance & TopEnd) are no longer in the Elan market. Also see www.informatica.zen.co.uk/elan  and click on "Staged Upgrades" for some more detail on your options for increasing the power of your car. DON'T go for the BBR kit, it's way overpriced and a Rob-C valve is much better value. Also £600 for a S/S exhaust is pretty pricey, Paul Matty do a good full system (wider bore, straight through exhaust) for £400 fitted. On my car a combination of the BBR kit and this exhaust was good for 225bhp, however you *will* need to examine your braking options (argh! I hear everyone cry!). Finally the 2 companies above that were doing mandrel bent pipes for the plenum chamber <-> intercooler feed aren't doing them any more, but Steve Sharpe in the UK makes excellent carbon fibre parts that fit perfectly and have a connector for a dump valve. All details are on the informatica site above.

Oct 10, 2002 - 06:54 - From: Darren
Title: I have'nea got de power !!
Message: Alan, I fitted a Bailey DV24 over the weekend but went the budget approach and fitted it into the existing silicon hose for no other reason than I had a spare hose, from a bag of bits I bought and the valve was second hand and came with a 'T' piece. The installation itself doesn't look too bad, as I cut a hole in the tube for the dump valve take off and then half split the hose to insert the 'T' piece itself and hose clipped it all back together. I then ran the vacuum hose round the back of the engine bay (1m will do it easily). The car went in for a service at Paul Matty's on Tuesday and he didn't really notice the dump valve until he took it for a spin. Now, a word of warning, if you don't want to get noticed then buy Bailey's re-circulating valve as the DV24 defiantly lets you know it's doing it's job i.e it off loads the excess pressure in a very dramatic way .

Oct 10, 2002 - 10:28 - From: Grass_snake_man
Title: Newbie
Message: Hiya everyone, this board has got my interest 100% at the moment (am at work and bored!) I am looking to buy an Elan SE in the next 3 months (credit pending) and had a couple of questions, same old newbie stuff, sorry! 1. What should I look for when checking an Elan over? Is there a top 10 things to check? 2. What are the tyres fitted to the SE as standard and what should they be kitted with these days? 3. Is there an Elan club of any sort in the UK? 4. What are the best resources for sourcing an Elan? Is it the usual Loot/autotrader type affair? 5. Insurance . . . I currently have a company car and have never had my own insurance before, I saw one posting re: insurance, are there anymore recommendations out there??? Cheers!

Oct 10, 2002 - 10:34 - From: Paul M
Title: BOV
Message: As a relatively new USA Elan owner, my winter project was to install a BOV. With Top End and Joe no longer the supplier of kits, is there any other kit out there? If the hand made approach is the only approach, what is the source of the valve? Paul

Oct 10, 2002 - 10:36 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Elise
Message: http://www.prototyperacing.com/ 

Oct 10, 2002 - 11:16 - From: Dan Giani
Title: Hi
Message: The Elise has V.Good brakes so why do not some of you trade up? Especially if you do TrackDays. The Elan is not a graet track car, to heavy says my boss who dose some racing. My boss has both and says Elan for road, Elise for track. I ave an old Esprit and the brakes no good it also give me many problem. Bye Dan.

Oct 10, 2002 - 11:39 - From: Darren
Title: BOV
Message: Paul, most people in the UK opt for a Bailey dump valve ( http://www.baileymotorsport.co.uk/ ) either the DV24 or the re-circulating type. You can either fit it by 'adapting' the top silicon pipe to take a 50mm 'T' piece or purchase the excellent carbon fibre pipe on offer from Steve Sharpe (check upgrades area) which basically replaces the top pipe and has a dump valve take off point.

Oct 10, 2002 - 13:38 - From: Philbo
Title: Elise brakes
Message: Dan, your boss is right in general, the Elise is a better/more fun car in standard spec. However with very little effort (MBC) the Elan can be made to be faster than an Elise round all but the very slowest tracks (Elises have the advantage coming out of slow corners). As for brakes, the Elise brakes actually aren't fantastic, on a heavier car like the Elan they'd struggle on track too. Brake upgrades for tracked Elises aren't unheard of. Plus, the aftermarket brake upgrades for the Elan are considerably cheaper than a set of Elise calipers would be.

Oct 10, 2002 - 15:03 - From: Dan Giani
Title: Track
Message: I ask my boss he say to tell you Brembo brakes V.Good with the right wheel and some modification. He also say wider wheel give good grip and better stopping on Track with Brembo. He race Elan before he get Elise. I try Esprit on Track it need good driver because I spin off to easy! Lot of fun but easy damage car! Sorry I write but ave no Elan. My English also not good. Sorry. Bye Dan.

Oct 11, 2002 - 01:09 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Women Drivers
Message: Hi Guys, Let's all have a break from the brake subject... http://www.diadiktyo.net/fun/fun.php?page=girldriver  :))) http://www.minca.cz/suzuki/  :)))

Oct 11, 2002 - 02:56 - From: Mike
Title: Elan vs. Elise
Message: i concur with dan's boss, the elan is no sort of a track car, even with upgraded brakes. i have upgraded brakes and altered suspension to make the car handle better, but, although it fun it isn't a track car. however it is eminently suitable for the road. it has the ability to thrash an Elise (not as difficult as you may assume) and hold it's own with the clubman cars. the esprit won't get a look in on the twisty bits. it may be possible to radically alter the elan, however the drivetrain setup and the weight are the limiting factors. the correct tyre pressures make a very significant difference. the Elise is no sort of a novice's car on the limit. good at slower speeds, fun, but pretty delicate on the limit. the big difference is that there is a lot that can be done to the Elise and it's only limited to the size of your racing budget. we have a few ferociously fast Porsche beaters in Oz which can be put together and stay in one piece with the right amount of money spent. the esprit can be made fast, but it's a big ticket item and it ain't much of a ride.

Oct 11, 2002 - 03:56 - From: Philbo
Title: Not really Elan vs Elise
Message: Don't want this to become an Elan vs Elise thread, the cars are too different. IMO: Elan=very fast road car, can be made to be an OK track car, ultimately limited by FWD and weight distribution. Elise=good fun drivers car, not great on road, subject to snap oversteer making ultimate on the limit fun less obtainable. The main "problem" with the Elise is the K series engine, IMO. Yes it's incredibly light but the cooling is minimal. You can get to 180-200bhp by spending a few £000 mainly on head work but the engine will need rebuilding occasionally. The absolute maximum is about 240bhp with some major bottom-end work and major expense. Compare this with another mass produced unit, like the Vauxhall 2litre lump which is somewhat heavier but can be made to give upwards up 250bhp with just head work, and it will run all day long.

Oct 11, 2002 - 04:36 - From: owen
Title: comfy arse
Message: I replaced the seat hooks on my driver's seat last night - i now appreciate how comfortable the car is!! I can't believe i've been driving around with one arse cheek on the floor since i bought it...

Oct 11, 2002 - 06:08 - From: Paul D
Title: Gatso
Message: Got flashed twice while showing another turbo car my beautifully crafted lotus behind, I remember reading a few posts about the plastic number plate cover reflecting the Gatso camera, any truth in that, has anyone got away with it!

Oct 11, 2002 - 06:15 - From: Owen
Title: Speed cameras
Message: Paul - It was Chris Foulds who told me that the rear number plate cover reflected gatso flashes, which was why the revised open design was introduced, and replacement covers are not available. Haven't tested it out yet though! I have bought a second hand open design plate holder, which i was planning to fit this weekend, but you've made me think twice!!

Oct 11, 2002 - 06:21 - From: Paul D
Title: Speed camera
Message: I think the camera I went through is one of the proper ones, will let you know if I get anything back, if in london watch out for the bus lane cameras, I got a £40 ticket 6 months later, and the cameras can be up to 1/4 mile away, I still cant find the actual camera that got me and I have the pictures.

Oct 11, 2002 - 07:13 - From: Laurence
Title: Speed cameras
Message: Why not try radar detectors? They are apparently legal in the UK and should pick up the standard radar based Gatsos OK. The only problem with the Elan is that in the optimum position on the bottom (middle) of screen you won't be able to reach the detector to mute the false alarms (which will be frequent even with a top of the line unit). Laurence

Oct 11, 2002 - 09:38 - From: Dave M.
Title: boost update
Message: I adjusted the HKS pressure relief valve and it is the boost leaking culprit. A few twists and I bumped up 2 psi from the 17 I was stuck at earlier. So it apparently does open under boost as well as when you lift the throttle (manifold vacuum). Unfortunately I don't have lots more adjustment to the HKS remaining, but instead will likely just eliminate the piece when I do some sort of FMIC and reroute the IC piping (so if anyone wants an Isuzuperformance upper IC pipe w/the big HKS BOV, it'll be for sale sometime next early spring). It's probably good I'm limited as I'll be needing some additional intake air cooling once I'm over 20 psi, anyway. Actually, the HKS works as a sort of external wastegate now. The actual turbo wastegate isn't opening at all at this point but is there if something goes wrong. Two lines of defense, if you will. At 19 psi I'm seeing 1,400 F on the EGT (got it fixed - broken probe) and 9.6-10.5:1 on the A/F (still VERY rich, but safe!). It's creepy how much more headroom I've got as long as I can control intake air temps. Maybe 25-30 psi isn't such a crazy thought... Just thought I'd share the good news. I'm still geeked from driving to work this morning in the cold - top down when it's 45 degrees with my ski hat on! Gotta love it.

Oct 11, 2002 - 09:49 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: Brakes, brakes, brakes!
Message: My turn to climb up onto the proverbial soapbox and chime in. First let me preface by saying that I have owned my M100 for the past 10 plus years and have never thought very highly of the stock brake system. More than once I had the car taken in to my Lotus factory authorised dealer to have them look at my brakes, as the pedal never felt good and the stopping distances were too long. Several times pads, rotors and even calipers were changed under warranty or at my expense. Nothing seemed to work. Eventually they dismissed my complaints over the brakes with a "that's just the way the brakes are designed to work" (inefficiently?!). One day it caught me out on the highway when I had to panic brake. The tires never locked-up, even standing on the pedal, and I ended up damaging the bonnet slightly (paint only fortunately) as I slid the nose under a very large Chevrolet. After that I never really trusted the brakes on the car. After reading about the effects of track usage on the brakes, I knew I had to do something before heading out with my friends from the Florida Lotus Club ( www.floridalotusclub.com ) to Homestead for a track day the weekend of 18 Oct. I opted to shell out a few dollars and go with the AP Racing kit, which Dave M. has spoken so highly of. The kit arrived from B.G. Development as and when promised and I just had the system fitted a few days ago (BTW, a masterful job, by Paul & Dave @ Foreign Toys in Ft. Lauderdale, FL). Though I've yet to bed in the brakes, my initial impression is that I should have done this long, long ago. The pedal is now higher and sits perfectly for heel & toe downshifting. The car stops MUCH shorter than ever before. The pedal feel is perfect. This weekend I'll bed-in the brakes for the track days the following weekend. The only real negative is that there is SO much more weight transfer under braking, that the nose dive is really exaggerated. Coil-overs are next on the list. I will let you all know how the system works on-track later this month. OK, I'm off the soapbox... who's next?! CHEERS! Jose M. Armengol

Oct 11, 2002 - 13:32 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: R/H headlamp motor for sale
Message: See "items for sale". This is the right hand side headlamp motor good for any M100 Elan. It will NOT fit on the left hand side. I rebuilt it using the "3-roller" rebuild kit, fastidiously cleaned out ALL the goo and re-lubed it to boot. It should last as long as a new one at less than half the price and I will guarantee it for 90-days, only because that is how long Lotus guarantees one! Price of $90 includes shipping in USA.

Oct 11, 2002 - 14:20 - From: Steve P
Title: Amazing!
Message: Just been out for a spin to Goodwood to let my 17 month old boy to watch some Ferrari's going around at a track day. Might book myself in for a drive as they had some real classics like a 911RS, D-Type Jag and AC Cobra. Ended up following the D-Type in the Elan after the instructor took it out on the road for a spin - no problem keeping up ;-) Anyhow if you know the circuit there is a perfectly smooth very large car park on the right with a tree in the center - today it was empty and I just couldn't resist taking the Elan in and giving it some welly! Could I unstick the car? I went faster and faster and all I could do was make the car slide gently - the back just wouldn't come around unless I stabbed the brakes. It's the first time I've tried this flat out (there's usually something to hit if I cook it on a track!) but today I was truly amazed just how sticky and safe this car is on a good surface (and I thought it was good before). I also tried to simulate what you guys experience with autocross - I can see how rapid changes of direction could be a bit difficult with front drive. If you get the chance to try high speed circles in a SAFE location I suggest you give it a try - only problem is you have even more confidence to go faster around the bends!

Oct 11, 2002 - 15:22 - From: Doug
Title: BOV Help
Message: Dave M and all (myself included)--just wanted to point out the BOV function you may not know about! The HKS for sure (and the others I do not know) has another port for a vacuum line across from the one we connect to the manifold pressure. Dave you should connect this as I think I will! What you do it connect this port to the pressure within the upper intercooler pipe--this positive pressure will help keep the valve closed under pressure!! You can tap a line into the metal pipe (my plan). Dave, this may help or completely eliminate your bleed from the valve.

Oct 11, 2002 - 17:02 - From: Dave M.
Title: BOV
Message: Mine valve is already connected it appears. See http://www.lotuselancentral.com/images/parts/IPupperICpipe.jpg  I need to look into this a little further...hmmmm. As I got thinking about this, I was wondering if those of you with MBCs and the HKS could actually control boost using the BOV? If all pressure was diverted from the turbo wastegate, the HKS would operate like a wastegate (and a ball and spring MBC) by holding all pressure until a given point was reached (14.7 psi, say), then it opens. Don't know if it can be dialed back that far, but since mine was opening at 17, it may be entirely possible. Just a thought...

Oct 11, 2002 - 17:10 - From: Dave M.
Title: From HKS:
Message: "HKS Standard and Racing Bypass valves are push type valves that utilize calibrated spring pressure and vacuum line pressure to remain closed against the pressurized air in the charge pipe. As the throttle is closed, creating vacuum in the line, combined with the force of the pressurized air in the charge pipe, the bypass valve pushes opens and allows the pressurized air to escape. The HKS Standard Bypass Valves are adequate for the airflow associated with engines producing upwards of 300hp. HKS Racing Bypass Valves function similar to the Standard Bypass Valves, but incorporate an additional pressurized port to aid under severe boost conditions. The Racing Bypass Valve can also be used as a safety "pop-off" valve if the second port is connected to a pressure source that does not see vacuum. For added flexibility and function, HKS Racing Bypass Valves are offered in various adjustable boost pressure ranges that are determine by a specific spring pressure." I'll check to see what (if any) other springs they have besides red (apparently lighter duty) and blue (heavier duty)...

Oct 11, 2002 - 17:32 - From: Dave M.
Title: interesting...
Message: ...what a little searching will turn up. HKS Racing bypass valve springs: 3.5 - 9 (psi) White / 7 - 14 Blue / 12 - 18 Red / 6 - 12 Yellow...also noted: "Pressure rated valve springs for HKS Racing Bypass & Pop Off Valves. Springs are color-coded for a specific adjustable boost range to "pop off" boost. For Racing Bypass vavles, springs affect "pop off" function only and are not directly related to the valves' boost holding capacity." I'm guessing that means for the Racing valve, Blue will hold more than 14 psi (which it does in my case). Looks like red may be the one for me to have. Anyone still have one from a prior replacement with Blue they'd like to sell?

Oct 11, 2002 - 18:42 - From: Doug
Title: HKS BOV
Message: There is a write-up in the LEC site about how to change the spring. FYI, The spring it came with should be noted with a dot of colored paint on the set screw. You can contact your HKS dealer to get a different spring.

Oct 11, 2002 - 19:54 - From: Mike
Title: Disney Elan Fate Determined
Message: The two Norfolk Yellow Elans at the Disney MGM backlot are shell cars-two of 6 Elans sold to Disney by Lotus for the "Honey I blew Up the Kids Movie". They have no running gear and were used as props for camera mounting, misc. scenes, etc. The other 3 shell cars' fate is unknown. However, the real McCoy is alive an well-the one car used in the movie that actually ran (it was in the scene where the car pulls up on the LV Strip). This car currently is in Atlanta, in the hands of the second owner and is for sale. This car also was the Lotus show car that ran the US car show circuit in 1990 when the Elan was introduced, so it has quite a history. The Elan was sold to a dealer in NJ after the movie and a podiatrist there owned it for a year or so and put 12,000 miles on it. The current owner purchased it in 1994 and it now has 81,000 miles with 55,000 on a replacement engine supplied by Lotus USA due to an oil leak (no dealer was in Atlanta to service it at the time so the mother hen did the duty). For pictures, details and contact info go to www.geocities.com/merk14bex/lotuselan . The documented history of the car is there as well, with a letter of authenticity from Lotus.

Oct 12, 2002 - 05:48 - From: Laurence
Title: BOV instead of a wastegate
Message: Dave, I'm not sure it's a good idea to completely stop the wastegate opening and just use a BOV. Doesn't the wastegate stop the turbo from spinning faster than you need/want and therefore ultimately extend the life of the Turbo? Laurence

Oct 12, 2002 - 06:55 - From: stephen
Title: leaking roof
Message: i've had my elan for a couple of weeks now and loved every minute of it. i have enjoyed some unseasonably good weather for scotland but now the weather has broke. it is p**sing down and i don't think i will get the hood down for at least 6 months. now i see why most convertible owners keep a towel i the glove box, my hood leaks like a sive. the water is coming in through the seals at the top of the windows where the hood seals open to allow the hood to fold. is this normal or is there anything i can do apart from wait for ntc to bring out there hardtop. cheers, stephen.

Oct 13, 2002 - 16:35 - From: Alan
Title: ElanScan update
Message: The new version of ElanScan is ready: http://members.lycos.co.uk/mcnica01/M100_ALDL.html. I've also added a stripboard layout of the interface circuit as I made it: http://members.lycos.co.uk/mcnica01/ALDL_circuit.html. Let me know if you have any comments.

Oct 13, 2002 - 21:53 - From: Dave M.
Title: track report
Message: Saturday at Grattan was awesome. After a foggy and slippery start to the day, things turned out sunny and warm. All you can hope for in Michigan in October! I finally was able to compare lap times after improvements as this was the first track I'd repeated at since all the work was done. How does 9 seconds faster on a 2.0 mile track grab you? I credit the tires big-time, but now running just a tweak under 20 psi the car flat flies. For comparison sake my 1:37 compared fairly well to the 1:31 an Elise 190 in a different group was running. I was able to run a bit faster than most everyone in my group (including a few Esprits, some VW GTIs, a 944 turbo, one Audi TT, and a particularily fun race-prepped Miata that liked to dice). Jason from the Geo Storm gang was good enough to hang on with me for a ride and his wife got some video. See the links at: http://www.kipanderson.net/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Kills;action=display;num=1034517474 The track gave the suspension a work out, so I'm very interested in your spring upgrade, Phil! I'm already sold on the adjustable struts from the other good reports. All in all, I'm absolutely thrilled with the car. Bugger I've got to put it away in another 1 1/2 months or so... But not before I get the exhaust fitted. Hopefully this week I can get an appointment at the shop...that should help the lag issue (it forced me to shift into 2nd twice per lap on track just to get some thrust exiting). The only regret of the track day was I didn't run in group B. There was a 360 Modena...uuhhhhh, yeah...not driven too quickly, but who cares. It's gorgeous. ;)

Oct 14, 2002 - 09:30 - From: Owen
Title: short shift kits
Message: Are the short shift kits still available? I think I remember reading somewhere on the site that they had been discontinued, but i'm not sure.

Oct 14, 2002 - 09:30 - From: Owen
Title: short shift kits
Message: Are the short shift kits still available? I think I remember reading somewhere on the site that they had been discontinued, but i'm not sure.

Oct 14, 2002 - 10:09 - From: Debby
Title: Looking For BRYN!!!
Message: If you read this and you know of Bryn please could you ask him to get in touch with me. He gave me a part number for the (Vauxhall) master cylinder and I have mislayed it.

Oct 14, 2002 - 11:36 - From: Rather not say just yet
Title: Accident repairs
Message: Hello, hope you guys don't mind me keeping my identity quiet while the insurance is sorted out. Had a major incident this weekend with rear suspension failure (I think you know what I refer to), needless to say I am now looking for a suitable place to do some major repair work to the front of my car, any could suggestions in the south you would recommend for insurance work. Thanks guys sorry for the anonymity, but please all check your rear suspension ASAP ;)

Oct 14, 2002 - 12:19 - From: Dave M.
Title: red spring
Message: Heard from HKS...I need the red spring. Does anyone have an extra or do I need to order through a dealer? PS - Had a chuckle at Lotus Judge's 10/7 post. The brakes were incredible AGAIN from 120 mph at Grattan. Even had enough grunt to lock DOT competition tires (I pulled that boner twice-I can appreciate that term "flat spot" now). Yep, in "a matter of weeks" they still continue to blow away the stock ones.

Oct 14, 2002 - 12:57 - From: robert collins
Title: Robert is a happy man
Message: 2 reasons. First the Elan passed its MOT - phew! Second, I finally took delivery of my laptop PC today. Wired up my ECU interface, booted up Alan's Elanscan and... it works!! Excellent work Alan - I owe you a beer!

Oct 14, 2002 - 15:29 - From: stephen reid
Title: hyper presuit mode
Message: evening gent's. i am planing to take my motor to AVA a tuning shop next glasgow airport. it is a turbo specialist and has a 2wd & 4wd rolling road. the plan is to stick my elan on and and see what she can do, then add a K&N element filter and a bleed valve. once fitted what kind of power can i expect, the only other mod i have at the moment (apart from the brakes) is a s/s exhaust from paul matty which the prev owner had fitted. should i fit anything else or does this sound like a good balence? P.S. thanks for the advice about the seals alan, i will try it once they dry out.

Oct 14, 2002 - 15:32 - From: Doug
Title: ElanScan
Message: Go Rob, and Bravo Alan!! I hope to get the program running myself soon (salivating). Then if you all send me your files I can post them under our names and we can compare . . .

Oct 14, 2002 - 15:34 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: re: leaking roof
Message: Stephen, you might want to try applying some heavy silicone to the seal. I had big issues with the front seal leaking from the left (driver's, in my case) side with the stock hood. Subsequently had hood (fabric) replaced about 3 years ago and had the hood frame checked & tightened. The leak was better, but still there. Since then I have applied a thick clear silicone marketed for tires ("Black Magic") and only get a slight drip under the most torrential South Florida rains. Cheers, Jose M. Armengol Calypso Red '91 M100 (LHD, federal)

Oct 14, 2002 - 16:32 - From: Bryn
Title: Master Cyl
Message: Debby, wasn't me I'm afraid but I can tell you that the part number stamped on the underside of the master cylinder is '23838882 made in France' (presume this in not the same as the Lotus part No.), maybe that will help ID the part at the Vauxhall dealer. If you find it, do let the board know. The advise I was given recently by a brake refurb specialist was that the cylinder is a Bendix unit only found on the Elan (but that does seem unlikely) and with Lotus charging £260 for a new one, be good to know if there is an alternative. I have a cylinder off the car so let me know if you need to check other distinguishing marks to ensure the Vaux part is same should the part numbers not tally. Oh yeah, I believe that the cylinder is not especially prone to failure, but other problems like difficulty in bleeding can give similar symptoms to a seal failure, presume other options have been exhausted? the master cyl is a REAL pig to remove and replace.

Oct 14, 2002 - 16:46 - From: Steve T
Title: Petrol leak
Message: I didn't realise I'd bought a hobby, I guess life was getting too easy. Petrol appears to seep from around the area that the filler pipe meets the fuel tank, runs down the tank and drips underneath. Has anyone heard of it before ? Any suggestions ??

Oct 14, 2002 - 19:52 - From: Doug
Title: fuel leak
Message: Steve, you have just described the main features of one of the Elan's common faults--in this case it is a "recognized" defect. The good thing is that this has become (with the help of this board and networking) a "formal" issue with Lotus USA (though I still have not received the notice)--the bad thing is that it is just in the US!! I recommend you email and/or call Lotus HQ in Hethel to inform them of your problem and inquire about it--if lucky they may direct you to a dealer and pay for the inspection, and if even luckier they will pay for the new part, and if you are a lotto winner they may comp the whole thing??!! We have talked about this a lot this year before the US recall notice in this board if you have time to kill reading the old Archived notes. Perhaps someone your side of the lake can help out as there have been others there with this problem!

Oct 15, 2002 - 00:54 - From: Doug
Title: PCV valve
Message: FYI, FWIW I can confirm (holding them in my hand) that the "Fram FV430" PCV from the 91 Isuzu Impulse 1.6L-T DOES NOT cross reference to the Elan.

Oct 15, 2002 - 01:18 - From: Doug
Title: whoops
Message: the correct part number above is "FV340"

Oct 15, 2002 - 04:49 - From: Laurence
Title: hyper presuit mode?
Message: Hi Stephen. If you don't have one and you're going to up the boost, you could get a dump valve (or recirculating valve) for the sake of your Turbo. www.baileymotorsport.co.uk is one place to go - to save a bit of money you can use a Bailey T piece and hose with a Bosch dump valve from a Saab dealer. See the upgrades area on this site. Good luck with your seals ! Some folks treat the actual hood material with Fabsil (from a camping shop) to keep it water tight and help water run off - doesn't help the seals though! Laurence

Oct 15, 2002 - 04:59 - From: Owen
Title: Hood patches
Message: My hood, despite being fairly new, has started to wear where the frame is rubbing. I tried some duck tape over the worn bits, bit it's not really sticky enough. Does anyone have any advice on what type of material to use for patches, and the glue to stick it on? I don't want to mess up my hood at this early stage of winter! Also, the first proper rain since i bought the Elan, drove to work this morning, and DIDN'T GET WET!! Nobody at work would believe me i had no leaks though :-)

Oct 15, 2002 - 05:06 - From: Owen
Title: ELanscan
Message: Also, does anybody know where I could get an interface cable to connect my Elan to a laptop? I'm feeling a need to play with the Elanscan software (good work Alan!) but attempting to solder the interface board myself will end in tears. I know my limits!!

Oct 15, 2002 - 05:30 - From: Laurence
Title: Short shift kit vs gear knob option
Message: Owen, I'm not sure you can get the shift kit now but a ball (Momo racing style) shape aftermarket gear knob can have the effect of shortening the gear stick qite a bit. My S2 has one, I think it looks better and feels like a much shorter throw - the only thing you would have to consider on the SE would be the gear stick and/or centre arm rest/storage box thing getting in the way of your arm. Laurence

Oct 15, 2002 - 05:42 - From: Chris P
Title: Debby master cylinder
Message: Debby I sent you the part number a while ago here it is again, 3492616 it was £110.50 when I got it, I suppose if Vauxhall can tell you exactly which car it comes from, then you could get a cheaper part from a motor factors it was an exact replacement, but turned out not to be the main problem I don't know whether doug wants to / could add this to the parts list?

Oct 15, 2002 - 05:58 - From: Owen
Title: Knobs!
Message: Laurence - i was thinking about getting a new gearknob anyway, i quite fancy the chrome ball type in the elise, which has got the lotus badge on the top. Should be easy to get secondhand too.

Oct 15, 2002 - 06:21 - From: Paul D
Title: Hood patches
Message: Owen, there is material tape in halifords, I taped the two prone hood ripping areas a few weeks ago with it, and it has stuck firm.

Oct 15, 2002 - 06:21 - From: James Flack
Title: Some Answers (Hopefully!)
Message: 'Rather Not Say Yet' - Sinclaires in Romford are a Lotus specialist and experts in body repairs in particular. They get a lot of good press on the Lotus BBS (www.british-cars.co.uk) from Elise and Elan owners alike. I've not tried them myself yet but am intending to take my car for it's B&C service there. Sorry to hear about your incident - I had a similar failure a couple of months ago but was lucky enough to avoid oncoming traffic/trees etc. I agree everyone should have their wishbones checked properly ASAP especially if they have an SE - this is a very serious risk. Owen - My roof has worn through either side where it rubs so I use some Halfords fabric tape to cover the holes until I get a new roof. It's sticky enough that it lasts for a while and more importantly for me it keeps the rain out. Not sure how good it'd be on its own to stop the hood wearing though. When I bought the car it had patches glued to the roof - these didn't last as long as the tape even and only served to ruin the fabric to which it was stuck (gone hard from the glue). I know of 2 solutions other people have used. 1 is to tape (Halfords stuff should serve this purpose) some foam to the inside of the hood where it rubs. The second is to tape the foam to the frame to sto pit rubbing. When I get a new hood I plan to try the second option. Gear Knob - I've got the Momo Racing Air Leather knob on my car now which I think looks loads better than the standard part and it does serve to shorten the shift slightly. I must have shorter arms than everyone else as I find the storage box to be perfect for resting my elbow and most useful for storing CDs - would miss it if I had an S2! Cheers, James.

Oct 15, 2002 - 06:26 - From: rudz
Title: ALAN's ELAN FREESCAN
Message: great job, Alan. haven't got around to playing with it but would love to do so soon, once i get my hands on the required hardware. i'm sure i'm not the only one here who appreciates your effort. thanx, again, dude !

Oct 15, 2002 - 07:51 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re; Hood Patches
Message: Owen, I have used hood material that Lotus sent me and stuck it on with Evostick contact adhesive, I've only used the type you have to ask for that gets locked away not the safer water soluble type. Cut the patch to shape, hold it over the tear and mark around the edges with tailors chalk and apply the Evostick to the hood, wait for the surface to become dry and then press the patch on. My last patch lasted 5 years and this time I squeezed Sikaflex into the tear before apply the patch. There are lots of places that sell hood material if you have a look in one of the classic car mags. I have looked at the Fabersil product but it does say on it that it is not suitable for rubberised materials and the hood material has a rubber central core sandwiched by a cotton top and bottom layer. I've decided not to chance fate!

Oct 15, 2002 - 07:53 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Debby master cylinder
Message: Chris P, Is the number you've supplied a GM code? Richard

Oct 15, 2002 - 09:03 - From: Dave M.
Title: ALDL cables/PCV
Message: Owen, I got mine here: http://www.wotelectronics.com/cables.html Maybe they'll ship to the UK? Rob, Can you do a quick write up on the wiring? Did you use an ALDL plug or just tap the wires behind the car's plug? I've heard a question on whether the power lead should be 5V or 12V...what did you use for power? FWIW on the PCV, the Elan uses a different system than the "twin" Isuzu. The Isuzu does not have the oil separator (the black-topped box behind the CAS housing).

Oct 15, 2002 - 10:50 - From: stephen reid
Title: to many valves
Message: im a confused man. as i posted a day or two back im puting my car on a rolling road and haveing a mbc fitted. question is whats the difference between a manual boost controler,boost valve, bypass valve, bleed valve, dump valve, blow of valve and all the rest. i have been told that a dump is needed but then i was told its unnesasery and that they are only fitted to make a nice noise. can someone help me understand, posibly with the use of diagram? short of the mbc do i need to fit anything else to balence things out, or should i us the opertunity to fit any thing else that would give me big bang for bucks?cheers, stephen.

Oct 15, 2002 - 12:24 - From: Paul D
Title: Valves
Message: Stephen: In the UK, the two valves are 1)DUMP VALVE.(Blow of valve)and 2)BLEED VALVE. (Manual Boost Controller) 1)Lets pressure out of the turbo air system, it does make a loud noise on the elan becuse the turbo is small and builds up pressure quickly,... people either love of hate the sccchhhhh sound, but you can recycle the pressure back into the sytem to eliminate the noise. It has been said that it can prolong the life of the turbo, because the pressure that is released does not go back and stall the turbo, therefore it helps keep the turbo spinning, when changing up through the gears, ( I have noticed no increse in power, I just like the noise... 2)Bleed Valve helps you control the boost level...its is the cheapest performace upgrade and you can really feal the difference.

Oct 15, 2002 - 12:46 - From: Bryn
Title: Valves
Message: As a P.S to Pauls concise round-up, if you add a dump valve with no bleed valve, you will see a quicker spool up of the turbo as a result of the turbo not being 'stalled', means you get back on full boost quicker between the gears. Dump valve is a wise addition fitted in conjunction with a bleed valve.

Oct 15, 2002 - 12:47 - From: robert collins
Title: ALDL interface - Rob's crude version
Message: Dave, I built the 2-transistor interface, exactly as shown on Andy Whittaker's site. My rough-and-ready prototype consists of an exposed circuit board, dangling from two groups of 3 tangled wires. One group leads to a serial plug, which I soldered myself (badly) as per the diagram on Andy's site, the other group I shoved straight into the sockets on the ALDL connector. I tinned the end 1/2" or so of the wires with solder to make crude "pins" out of them. The more elaborate MAX232 interfaces tend to take the +12v supply off the ALDL, then use a 7805 voltage regulator to bring it down to +5v. My next project will be to build a better quality interface setup (now that I know the circuit works!) To make life easier, I'm looking for an old serial cable that I can cut in half and solder the individual cores onto my circuit board (for the PC side). For the ECU side, If I can't get hold of an ALDL plug cheaply, then I'll probably use the cigarette lighter socket for my +12v / gnd connections, then splice a single connector into the data wire at the back of the ALDL plug.

Oct 15, 2002 - 13:09 - From: stephen
Title: result
Message: nice one guys, thats cleared up a few doubts. i think i will fit the mbc and a dump valve. is it just the recycling type that keeps the turbo spining? cheers, stephen.

Oct 15, 2002 - 13:52 - From: Laurence
Title: Results
Message: Hi Stephen, you don't need to re-cycle to keep the turbo spinning it's mostly just a noise thing. Without re-cycling it will sound like the air brakes on a truck everytime you change gear - just peronal preference really. Personally I would buy a valve that can be re-circulated if you want then you can try it to atmosphere first and always re-circ later - if you get fed up with the noise. The Bosch is the cheapest at about £30 but you need a T piece and a little bit of 1" hose from Bailey to fit it (about another £25), I think the T is 2" with a 1" outlet. It makes a noticable difference when changing gear on full boost - instant response. Laurence

Oct 15, 2002 - 17:01 - From: Doug
Title: Update on my little problem
Message: Well, I replaced the CAS last weekend, and the short of it is that it was the problem. No symptoms since, and the car passed the CA smog test after! Clearly the CAS is very crucial in the exact timing as my problems were when the engine wanted to advance or retard the timing it seems to me (this was normal driving conditions not anything under high boost). The Anecdote here is that my CAS was only 6 years old, AND I never could get it to give an error code, so it was not that bad yet. Still, if your Elan has some weird symptoms do not count the CAS out!!! I also rebuilt the RH headlight motor (easy) and added comments to the bottom of the online write-up already there about that job.

Oct 15, 2002 - 17:25 - From: Robert Collins
Title: Stephen - MBC
Message: Stephen, check http://www.mardibloke.co.uk/Cars/Lotus_Elan_M100/Upgrades/Rob-C_Boost_Controller/rob-c_boost_controller.html for a write-up of a cheap and very effective MBC option.

Oct 15, 2002 - 17:41 - From: Alan
Title: Will I ever stop going on and on about this boring ALDL stuff?
Message: A slightly tweaked version of ElanScan is now available. I squashed a couple of bugs and added a distance parameter - calculated from the speed and time - to the list (and probably introduced another 50 bugs or so in the process). I also added some links to places you can buy interfaces on the ALDL interface page (I don't know for sure what works, so if you have bought an interface that works let me know and I'll endorse the link to that effect). See my homepage and follow the links. If you use ElanScan let me know if you hit any bugs and feel free to make suggestions for future versions. I'm looking forward to seeing lots of log files! Thanks for all the helpful E.mails and kind words.

Oct 15, 2002 - 19:41 - From: Scott
Title: Hey Dave M....
Message: Dave: Did anyone respond to your request for a red HKS spring? If not, email me and I will get it out via USPS. -Scott

Oct 16, 2002 - 00:09 - From: Sully
Title: not that it matters anymore...
Message: but http://ret0027h.eresmas.net/sb011.htm

Oct 16, 2002 - 04:18 - From: owen
Title: sideways action
Message: Jesus, i thought the Elan was supposed to be an extremely safe handling car! I've just managed to go round the roundabout into work sideways! Fair enough, it was wet, but i wasn't going that fast, and the rear end just slid out, quite gently - it didn't snap out suddenly like i've managed to do in other FWD cars, usually ending in a crash. No, it was quite smooth, and fun after the initial shock, but i wasn't expecting that sort of behaviour - i thought understeer would be the main problem, with the back end only coming out by lifting off at silly speeds?!?!? I think a strong cup of tea and clean pants are needed....

Oct 16, 2002 - 04:55 - From: Alan
Title: Slides
Message: Owen, I had problems just like you describe when one of my front brakes was binding (well not so much tail slides as just slides). I found that under power it gripped like crazy but off the power, even at quite low speeds, it would slip about in the wet. Next time you drive somewhere touch the wheels and make sure one's not warmer than its opposite number (after you stop, obviously, otherwise it might be quite dangerous:)

Oct 16, 2002 - 05:13 - From: Chris P
Title: Master cylinder
Message: Richard yes the part number I gave was a British GM part number that showed up on the receipt from Vauxhall.

Oct 16, 2002 - 05:14 - From: Owen
Title: Brown trousers
Message: Cheers Alan, i'll check that out when i get home, assuming i actually get there without crashing! The car's in for a service next week anyway, so hopefully any problems will be sorted then.

Oct 16, 2002 - 06:42 - From: PaulN
Title: Re: Brown trousers
Message: Hi Owen, My father-in-law had a similar problem once with our Elan before we bought it. Someone suggested the tyre pressure could have been the fault, he had a slow leak and the pressure was way too low.Just a thought. Also where did you decide to take the passion wagon for the service.... Storm? Cheers PaulN Ps I take it the trousers weren't Brown before the near spin? :-P

Oct 16, 2002 - 06:54 - From: owen
Title: trousers
Message: Cheers Paul, i'll definitely check the tyre pressures. I had a puncture repaired in a rear tyre a couple of weeks ago, wonder if that could be dodgy. Incidentally, what are people's opinions on puncture repairs? I know it's not ideal, but at £100 each i didn't fancy replacing a nearly new tyre. The wagon of passion is going to Chris Foulds for it's service next week, my girlfriend's parents live in sheffield, so it's not too far out of the way from there. An A service at Chris Foulds will cost £120. Peter Smith quoted £255, and Storm quoted £350!! We could stay in a five star hotel in Huddersfield (if there is such a thing) and still save money!

Oct 16, 2002 - 07:46 - From: rudz
Title: slipping & sliding
Message: owen, it only caught me out once before & i have to admit it was the first real run after i bought the car (unfamiliar), the road was wet & i was probably driving it a tad too fast(trying to defy physics). during that moment of truth, i was negotiating an increasing-radius corner (didn't see it was such before entering the corner), when i realised that i came in a little too hot & the car began to understeer.....natural reaction then was to turn the steering wheel more, tap the brakes and ... you guessed it ...wrong reaction & the back overtook the front. i did a 180 degrees faster than i can say whoa !! in hindsight & with some experienced advice, i probably shouldn't have backed off but instead keep a cool head, turn the wheel a little more & accelerated out of the corner !! easier said than done especially when you've just had your dream car for less than a month. though battlescars are nice to show off, i'm thankful i came out of it without any !! learn the car & you'll be duly rewarded.....cheers

Oct 16, 2002 - 08:00 - From: Paul D
Title: Sliding
Message: I can not get the back out, not even in the wet, the front will just slide, i have had that problem before on my first car a mini, it was the back brakes that caused the problem, they where slightly locked so when you went around a corner it was like you were putting the handbrake on, made a few seats brown with that one.

Oct 16, 2002 - 09:27 - From: Owen
Title: sliding
Message: I know what you mean Rudz, i've had lift off oversteer before (twice, both Rover Metros - don't laugh) and this didn't feel the same. I'm fairly sure i didn't lift off the throttle, and it was a fairly gently slide, not the sudden snap i've had before. Perhaps it was just the road camber or something, but i'll be checking the rear brakes all the same, from Paul's experience.

Oct 16, 2002 - 12:55 - From: tom santora
Title: ecu
Message: any suggestions on how or where i might obtain an ecu (new or rebuilt/remanufactured) at less than full price? also the glovebox plastic opener has broken, is there a replacement part or do i need to replace the whole door?

Oct 16, 2002 - 13:13 - From: Mike K
Title: Missing Disney Cars
Message: I own one of the missing "Honey I Blew Up The Kid" cars. I didn't realize there were that many (6)! My car was used for the "Shake & Bake" scenes ( southern US term used for fried chicken). The babys brother & his girlfriend (Felicity in a later life) are picked up by the baby & swung around the 'strip' in Las Vegas. The car was altered abit. The floor was cut out, the chassis was cut in half, the 'back seat' was made out of plywood & carpet for the Cigar Store Indian. Also, 4" X 8" steel tubes were welded to the chassis and other brackets to enable some type of hydraulic(or other) platform to tilt the car in all directions. It seems it could be a preproduction prototype as there are no serial numbers anywhere. Also, it was a Euro spec with the US spec trunk/spoiler done by cutting & glassing up the Euro trunk and adding wood posts to hold up the spoiler. Sprayed Norfolk Mustard over the green original paint. Ten or so years in the Florida wet & sun left most non metal or non fiberglass parts shot. As it was a shell, no engine, trans, gas tank, etc.

Oct 16, 2002 - 13:19 - From: Mike K
Title: Fuel Pump
Message: What is a good source of the fuel pump/sending unit apparatus? SK does not list one in their parts list. And how much is a good price?

Oct 16, 2002 - 13:56 - From: Doug
Title: fuel pump
Message: Mike, welcome, as I don't remember you from before. So you fixed the Disney shell back to a car then? Well, I had my fuel gauge sender go out for the last few years and reluctantly replaced it a few months ago as it is integral to the fuel float/pump assembly! Lotus has the unit but it is about $300 or so.

Oct 16, 2002 - 15:09 - From: Joe s.
Title: Recall
Message: I have been on the buisness trip from.......(4 weeks) and just got back to recieve the Lotus recall notice on the fuel tanks............... My car has never had any noticable problems - but my closest dealer - 3 hours away - said to still get it checked. Anyone with a similar situation and results from dealer test ? thanks - Joe S.

Oct 16, 2002 - 15:12 - From: Laurence
Title: Glove box catch
Message: Tom you can get a replacement catch from Lotus but only the non-locking version which I think is from the Esprit. It's held in by a plastic collar slipped around the catch body on the inside. Easy to fix unless it's broken in the locked and closed position like mine was. Then it's a different story. ADVICE TO EVERYONE - It's not a good idea to lock the glovebox if the lock mechanism breaks it's VERY difficult to get it open again without causing damage! Laurence

Oct 16, 2002 - 17:12 - From: stephen
Title: oily stuff
Message: hello folks, i just fitted my K&N filter element and i found that the inside of the induction hose(the one from the filter to the turbo) had a dirty oily residue in it. is this normal? cheers, stephen.

Oct 16, 2002 - 17:44 - From: Doug
Title: oily goo
Message: Stephen, it's normal. It's the goo that creeps in from the 2 little lines attached to that pipe. One is from the boost solenoid valve and likely is not to blame. The other is from the oil separater (I think) and is the goo condensed from the crankcase gases. It is to vent the gas back into the system and the goo is just a by-product. Another reason to do Spring cleaning each year.

Oct 16, 2002 - 18:19 - From: paul
Title: Vacuum Operated Heater Control Valve
Message: Recently found my Elan was losing coolant. Eventually found my vacuum operated heater control valve had virtually corroded away. No probs I thought as I'd seen them advertised in the 'SJ Sports cars'parts list for about £18. Unfortunately they are now obsolete and apparently there is one left in the UK. I didn't believe this and phoned around to find this was indeed true and whoever has this last valve wants £120 for it!...... so I thought ''sod the robbing git'' and did some investigation. Basically the valve from a Jaguar XJ6 fits and works a treat and cost me £32 inclusive of VAT from a main Jag dealer. Even better though, i've Just found a company specialising in new and used Jag parts at www.classiccomponents.co.uk  who sell the same valve for £17.95!....... Hope this helps someone.

Oct 16, 2002 - 18:32 - From: Doug
Title: heater valve
Message: Paul, bravo! Was your part number C41051A ? http://www.classiccomponents.co.uk/price_list/heating/heating.html  If so I'll add the info to the site. If you have installation tips/experience to add then you can email me the info too and I'll post it.

Oct 16, 2002 - 18:34 - From: Paul
Title: Stainless Steel Exhaust
Message: Just fitted a S/S sports exhaust system supplied by 'SJ sport cars'. Complete system less the short downpipe from the manifold cost £200 inc VAT and delivery. System is well made but a bit of a sh*t to fit....Why?..... because all exhausts are!. What's it like? I can honestly say it has transformed the car. It now sounds sporty and meaty (but NOT obtrusive and boy racer-fied), acceleration is hell of a lot quicker and the car just so much nicer to drive. The turbo boost gauge now reads 0.55 bar instead of 0.45 (ish) bar so it is definitely more free flowing. People at work have even commented how good it sounds!

Oct 16, 2002 - 23:02 - From: Mike Kennedy
Title: Disney Car
Message: Doug, yes this was my first post. Had purchased a wrecked M100 about 4 years ago. Then the Disney car. And now am just looking at the project. The Disney car has no interior "driveshaft tunnel", as the chassis is cut in two. The floor was cut out & lowered by substituting plywood. Thus the actors could sit lower in the car. It's parts only. Back to the fuel pump/sending unit. It says "Made in Germany" on the top. Were any other makes of cars supplied with this unit?

Oct 17, 2002 - 04:23 - From: Laurence
Title: Disney
Message: I've not seen this Disney film with the M100's, is it recommended viewing for all M100 owners? Laurence

Oct 17, 2002 - 05:18 - From: Owen
Title: Stone chip
Message: I've just found a big, nasty stone chip (about 4mm diameter) right in the middle of my front bumper, it nearly reduced me to tears!! Does anyone have any advice for touching up the chip? I've seen SJ sportscars sell touch up brushes, and seeing as I'm going into the Lotus dealers at dinnertime I thought I might see if they've got any in stock. But with the paint being metallic (silver), what sort of repair can you make with a touch up brush? The bumper hasn't long been resprayed, so it's otherwise perfect so i don't want to respray the whole thing. Please help to stop a grown man cry!!

Oct 17, 2002 - 05:28 - From: PaulN
Title: Vacuum Operated Heater Control Valve
Message: Hi Paul, This sounds exactly the same as a problem ive got. Where was the leak? Looking from the front of the car mine is to the right of the engine bay slightly back from the Rad... Ish. After reading your post im really keen to sort my little leak out, So any info would be great, £120 down to £18, your the bargain finder of the month. Cheers PaulN

Oct 17, 2002 - 06:37 - From: Laurence
Title: Stope chip
Message: Owen, you could always try with a touch in brush for now and if you can't live with it take it back to whoever did the respray work before. Another possibility is www.chipsaway.co.uk . but I'm not sure it's so economic to call them out for one stone chip. Laurence

Oct 17, 2002 - 07:23 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Heater Control Valve
Message: Paul, The original Lotus price was £14.45 + VAT. I'm sure that a plastic replacement had been found before but I don't have the details with me.

Oct 17, 2002 - 07:32 - From: Owen
Title: chipsaway
Message: Laurence, have you (or anyone else) used chipsaway? I've just looked on the website, and it looks reasonably impressive. There's a few other little chips dotted around my car, so it may be worthwhile, but i'd be interested if anybody had any experience of them, and what sort of prices they charge.

Oct 17, 2002 - 09:31 - From: Laurence
Title: Chips away
Message: Hi Owen, I've not personally used them but I think a typical cost range for small job like yours is in the region of £75 to £100 (they will quote you first). My neighbour has used them (or a similar service - there are a few) and he has always been very happy. As they come to you they have to do the work outside or in your garage and quickly so it's not going to be a perfect situation. I would say still miles better than I could ever achieve with a tin of spray paint or a touch up brush etc. but probably some way off from the results of a Lotus approved professional body shop using the paint and special procedures specified by Lotus for fibreglass bodywork. It is a compromise and I guess it depends if you are an absolute perfectionist about your pride and joy on not! Laurence

Oct 17, 2002 - 09:56 - From: Dave M.
Title: exhaust
Message: Glad to hear the good news, Paul! My car just went in this morning for measurements on a 2.5" system. The only piece I have at the moment is Bill Sun's PCE, but I've got a good shop that's working on a high-flow cat/free flow muffler set-up. Although the guy is chewing his nails about going through the narrow engine mount piece! I'll check and see if he's interested in making copies if anyone is interested in this part of the country. I should have prices tonight. Vroom, vroom!

Oct 17, 2002 - 09:59 - From: Dave M.
Title: duh
Message: This part of the country = Michigan/midwest

Oct 17, 2002 - 10:00 - From: Owen
Title: puddle
Message: There was me thinking my Elan didn't leak - i've found a puddle, just behind the driver's seat (RHD) in the outboard of the two little indentations in the floor. Does anyone know where this might be coming from?

Oct 17, 2002 - 16:49 - From: PAUL
Title: Heater control valve
Message: PaulN. The vacuum operated heater control valve is situated at the rear of the engine bay, just right of centre. You'll see (this is from memory and I can't be arsed going into my garage at this time of night!) 2 x 3/4'' (approx) hoses going into the rear bulkhead. These are the feed/return lines to the heater matrix. The valve is fitted in line to one of these. Half of it is black plastic, the other half cadmium plated steel with obviously a vacuum unit on top. Hope that helps. By the way, its easy enough to fit and you'll only loose a liter or so of coolant.

Oct 17, 2002 - 17:23 - From: PAUL
Title: Manual Boost Control Valve
Message: Just fitted an MBCV and chuffed to bits with it. Turbo boost pressure is now between 0.7 - 0.85 bar and the car flies!. As I mentioned last night, I have a SJ Sportscars s/s sports exhaust, i'm expecting a K&N 'drop in' filter also from SJ tomorrow and I recon that'll do me nicely. The total cost for the 3 mods has been about £250 and I would recommend them to anyone, especially when you do not have money to burn. If anyone in the UK is interested in my MBCV, I'll take a few photo's of it tomorrow and E-mail if requested. I've looked at a few pictures posted on this webside and I recon mine is the neatest and most professional yet! I live in Loughborough and will sell MBCV kits complete with fitting instructions for £25.....anyone interested?(inclusive of postage and packaging)

Oct 17, 2002 - 19:06 - From: Tony V
Title: Elan Seats
Message: I am back amoung the M100 owners... Anybody have some seats they want to sell...?

Oct 18, 2002 - 00:35 - From: Doug
Title: various
Message: Paul, if you want to send me some tips for heater valve fitting I can post them up. Also I can post a pic of your MBC if you like. Dave M., be preparred for a sh!t-eating grin when you get that exhaust installed--I bet your turbo will just love it! Only problem is you'll be that much closer to really neading the quaife. BTW which ocean are you closer to in MI? Shouldn't they call it the mid-East (LOL) Just a West Coast joke . . .

Oct 18, 2002 - 04:29 - From: Owen
Title: Paul
Message: Paul - i'd more or less decided that i wanted to keep my Elan as standard as possible, and then you go and offer me an MBC for £25! In two minds now - since we work in the same place(!) could i have a look at yours before i decide? Cheers.

Oct 18, 2002 - 09:22 - From: Dave M.
Title: big grin
Message: I haven't yet lost the grin from 20 psi, what are you talking about? ;) Remember the feeling Paul mentions about the first run with an MBC? Multiply that kick in the shorts feeling by about 4 and you've got an idea what twice stock boost feels like. Oh, and I agree...the "midwest" should be somewhere around Denver.

Oct 18, 2002 - 11:37 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Isuzu (not) in the USA
Message: This is from yesterday's USA Today newspaper... ISUZU STRUGGLES IN U.S. MARKET American Isuzu sales will be about half this year of what they were just 2 years ago. Jim Hossack at consultant AutoPacific says Isuzu culd be gone (from the US market) in 2 years, and surely won't last more than 5. Dealers are nervous because Isuzu hasn't given then peeks at future models, something automakers often do to prove they have a future. GM, which owns 49% of the Japanese company, isn't supportive. "Whether they should be in the small SUV market is a question mark," GM CFO John Devine said earlier this year. Isuzu Motors proposed a restructuring plan in August. As part of that, GM would cut it's stake to 12%, while taking majority ownership of the profitable diesel engine operations.

Oct 18, 2002 - 11:38 - From: Ade
Title: Steering wheel
Message: Hi, everyone, I have not posted any messages for a long time due to been hit by a virus which I did not want to risk passing on. My system is now completely clear, so hear we go. Has anyone changed there steering wheel. I have just place an order for a nice looking Momo but I am unsure what boss to get. I am told the boss is the same as the old elan and have placed an order for same, but I find this difficult to believe as most the switch gear is vauxhall. Any ideas. Regards, Ade

Oct 18, 2002 - 11:38 - From: Ade
Title: Steering wheel
Message: Hi, everyone, I have not posted any messages for a long time due to been hit by a virus which I did not want to risk passing on. My system is now completely clear, so hear we go. Has anyone changed there steering wheel. I have just place an order for a nice looking Momo but I am unsure what boss to get. I am told the boss is the same as the old elan and have placed an order for same, but I find this difficult to believe as most the switch gear is vauxhall. Any ideas. Regards, Ade

Oct 18, 2002 - 13:16 - From: Ade
Title: Video
Message: Forgot to mention, There as just been released a video called the best of british. Produced by Duke videos. It is a full and in-depth story of Lotus. There is a feature on the M100 and I am pleased to say my M100 is included. It is the white elan K9JEA, for anyone interested. It really is a good video and well worth a look for all things Lotus, not just the M100.

Oct 18, 2002 - 13:30 - From: Ade
Title: Me being stupid
Message: Sorry folks, forget the steering wheel post I have just found it in the upgrades. Should have looked there first. I did say it had been a long time.

Oct 18, 2002 - 14:06 - From: Rick Moss
Title: Difficult starting
Message: Hi All. My car '90 H SE starts first crank of the engine when it's cold, but if I leave it for 10 minutes after a run it is not so easy. Normally 6-7 seconds of turning it over will get it running when it's hot. I have no fault codes and everything else is fine. I suspected a clogged air filter causing a rich mixture and have ordered a K&N... any ideas??

Oct 18, 2002 - 17:26 - From: robert collins
Title: Isuzu stuggles in US market
Message: Sounds more like, "Isuzu struggles due to being treated as a competitor by its own parent company." Bastards.

Oct 18, 2002 - 17:35 - From: robert collins
Title: rick - hot starting
Message: Rick - maybe a problem with the coolant temperature sensor? This item seems to be a quite common problem. Reasonably easy to test if you have access to a multimeter... Rob.

Oct 18, 2002 - 17:35 - From: Doug
Title: Isuzu
Message: To my recollection Isuzu is a subsidiary of Fugi Heavy Industries, as is Subaru. Clearly Subaru is advancing in the automobile industry, but I think Isuzu became more of a truck specialist within the last 10 years. I'm sure GM is not helping them either . . . they tend to assimilate technology and then discard (a la Lotus).

Oct 18, 2002 - 18:50 - From: robert collins
Title: Isuzu / GM
Message: Not sure that GM even assimilate the technology before discarding. Early Vauxhall Cavalier diesels had an excellent reputation due to their Isuzu engines. Later cavaliers and also the vectras which replaced them, had vauxhall engines which, as I can state from personal experience, are crap in comparison. For example, the 2.0 litre vauxhall vectra diesel engine has a single garrett T15 turbo with NO intake cooling and 1" outlet pipe size. Need I say more? Rob.

Oct 18, 2002 - 19:20 - From: Mike Kennedy
Title: Honey, I Blew up the Kid
Message: The movie has move M100 scenes than any other I know of. See if you can rent it. The plot is all in the title.

Oct 19, 2002 - 01:59 - From: Doug
Title: M100 Laptop
Message: Guys, I got my laptop a few days ago and now just awaiting the cable before the ElanScan frenzy starts!! Tony V. was kind enough to help me get a used laptop for a wholesale price. All it needs now after the cable is some BRG paint and Lotus stickers to make it my official Elan slave!

Oct 19, 2002 - 13:44 - From: Gregor Grobe
Title: Moore boost - but no power !!
Message: NEED HELP... I have increased the boost to aprox. 0.80 / 0.85bar by a MBC, but I was astonished during the dynorun. The dyno reads only 154hp :-(( I´m not really happy with this result... There is no other tuning like an sport exhaust or air-filter. Do you have an idea about this problem? Maybe the ECU has no program for the higher pressure? It is an Elan SE Turbo build in 12/90 (model of 1991). It´s a German version wiht catalyst. Can someboby help me ?

Oct 19, 2002 - 14:42 - From: Martyn
Title: Thermoman
Message: Hi, first time caller :-) H3LAN ( 130,000 miles, S2 engine - don't ask ) Done about 14,000 on the new engine and seems that the thermostat's heading for the great scrapyard in the sky. The car takes forever to warm up etc etc. With both its engines the car's always run cool, with the guage rarely creeping beyond one third of its travel unless I'm stuck in cross town traffic, when it rises to 3/4 and the fans kick in. Anybody had any experience fitting thermostats higher rated than the O/E 180 degree F product? If I fitted a 190 degree opener would that improve the emissions and miles per gallon ( not to mention getting feet warmer and the screen demisted quicker! ) or would it cook some bitsa the engine's innards. TIA Martyn

Oct 19, 2002 - 16:07 - From: Paul
Title: Elan dyno
Message: Martyn, I had my nearly stock USA 91 Elan turbo with 13,000 miles and a tuneup dyno tested in the USA. The only thing not stock was that I had the secondary catalyst replaced with a Lotus factory Euro straight pipe. It registered 125 HP SAE net at the tires. There is about 15 HP lost in the drive train, more with the flywheel. The spec on the Elan turbo says about 165 HP DIN. I don't know for certain what DIN test requirements are. I assume this is an engine on a factory dyno with optimum exhaust flow and possibly no flywheel or a light flywheel used just for establishing the HP spec. What does this mean? My car has good performance, so I assume the numbers from the factory are optimistic and don't mean much. It could be the dyno was not calibrated or had other problems. I did my dyno run to get a base point on which to do some performance mods like an MBC. So I guess I will be more interested in the HP increases and not so much the absolute numbers. Paul

Oct 19, 2002 - 16:16 - From: Laurence
Title: Thermoman
Message: Martyn, your guage is reading like they all do, but my experience (with 2 cars now) is that the heaters work really well. Are you sure it' really the engine temperature or could it perhaps be a problem with your heater valve or the control flaps? Laurence

Oct 19, 2002 - 16:33 - From: Laurence
Title: Dyno
Message: My UK spec 1990 SE (no Cat) had been dyno tested (stock with no tuning mods) before I got the car and I recall from the printout that it had registered about 167hp. I now have a standard (so far) S2 with a Cat and the factory spec is 155hp, it seems to have a similar 0 to 60mph as the SE but then quite a bit slower when accelerating/overtaking at higher speeds. I just wonder if the Cat on Gregor's car could be partially blocked up internally and causing reduced exhaust flow? Laurence

Oct 19, 2002 - 16:57 - From: robert collins
Title: Dyno
Message: As a matter of interest, how much is it for a dyno run these days?

Oct 19, 2002 - 22:40 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Dyno $$$$$
Message: My dyno tuning was $125-USD. That was for 3 pulls not just to get a power reading but to test for A/F ratios and adjust the nitrous jetting.

Oct 20, 2002 - 00:13 - From: Doug
Title: ElanScan Pages
Message: ElanScan is here to stay! Thanks again to Alan, the God of ElanScan, for all his ongoing hard work on this project!! I have added some ElanScan pages and even its own MB to the site. I figure we will have a lot to post and discuss, and rather than clog up this MB with all that, we can do it in another room. Cheers!

Oct 20, 2002 - 06:49 - From: Philbo
Title: Dyno runs
Message: Unless you take the engine out, dyno's produce an "accurate" figure only at the wheels, whereas the standard way of quoting engine bhp is at the flywheel. The power at the wheels is subject to losses through the drivetrain. Most dyno's try to establish these losses by measuring power at calibrated points for the dyno, but the reading that is extrapolated back to the flywheel from the reading at the wheels is always going to be subject to some errors. Also, dyno's vary considerably in their accuracy and type of build - there are several different types of dyno's and as you'd expect the most accurate ones are the most expensive by far. Therefore readings on the same dyno after mods CAN be useful to show relative gains, but the figures can't be wholly compared from dyno to dyno.

Gregor, if you've been quoted a bhp figure at the wheels of 154bhp then I would say that that is about what would be expected. The 90/91 SE's had a quoted flywheel bhp of 167, without cat. The cat will strangle the power by at least 5 bhp, and the drivetrain losses of about 12% would account for the rest, giving a Philbo guesstimate for your car in standard boost of about 143bhp at the wheels. A boost increase from .65 up to about .8 would give you about the extra 11bhp at the wheels you see. As a guide, my car with boost of .85 and a K&N did 185bhp at the fly, about 162bhp at the wheels, so only about 8bhp more than yours with a freer-flowing air filter AND no catalyst, so the upshot of all this I guess is to say that your 154bhp is pretty much OK.

Oct 20, 2002 - 06:52 - From: Philbo
Title: Dyno costs
Message: Oh yes, the place in Dorking where I get my dynos done is about £45 per hour; last time I got 2 runs for £30.

Oct 20, 2002 - 10:14 - From: Gregor Grobe
Title: Last Dyno Run
Message: @ Philbo As you know, the dyno measure the wheel power at first with a positive curve at the diagram. At the end of the test, (lets say during the "rollout") the necessary power to move the gearbox, tyres and so on. This is the negative curve at the diagram. Both lines together will give the complete power at the flywheel. And the results for my Elan where: 154hp at the flywheel and 121 at the wheels!!! You can imagine my surprised face after the dyno-run :-() I expected a minimum of 170 to 175hp, and now this! I don't know what to do. I can't believe that only the exhaust can drop the power so much, but maybe. If anybody have an idea - PLEASE LET ME KNOW... Thanks a lot.

Oct 20, 2002 - 10:42 - From: Gregor
Title: Dyno costs
Message: For comparison some prices from Germany: The last run was only 16€ (special price). But normally one run is around 30€. I use the Dyno at our local "Bosch Service". But a run at a special tuning shop is around 50 - 75€.

Oct 20, 2002 - 13:31 - From: Joel
Title: caravan to WCLM?
Message: Also posted on the Social Board: I'll be driving to the West Coast Lotus Meet at Monterey this Thursday, Oct. 24 from the Bay Area. Probably will be in the San Jose area in the 3-4 PM timeframe. Looking for anyone else headed to this event about that time to form a little caravan of M100's. Cheers, Joel

Oct 20, 2002 - 13:50 - From: paul finn
Title: non starter
Message: i have just bought a 1991 lotus elan about 3 months ago. its being great so far but i didnt use it for about 10 days and now i cant get it started. ive changed the battery, checked the sparkplugs and air filter all seem ok. does any one have any suggestions

Oct 20, 2002 - 14:04 - From: Philbo
Title: Dyno's et al
Message: Gregor, OK I assumed you meant 154 at the wheels! 121 at the wheels is pretty bad, you need to check: the timing, the sparks, the mixture, whether you are down 1 cylinder, the leads, the CAS, ... any of these could lead to low power. Also, the cheaper the dyno the less accurate it will be, so you might want to get a second check elsewhere or calibrate the dyno you used against another car.

Paul, one thing that might have done it is the inertia switch next to the battery. Does the engine even turn over? Or do you have no electrics at all?

Oct 20, 2002 - 14:22 - From: paul
Title: non starter
Message: no the engines turning over but just not firing. weather is pretty bad are they prone to damp starting

Oct 20, 2002 - 17:06 - From: robert collins
Title: damp starting
Message: Paul - I've just completed 12 months' daily use (22k miles) in all weathers. No starting probs at all on a car with 97k miles on the clock. It it trying to fire at all, or just turning over on the key? Rob.

Oct 20, 2002 - 17:18 - From: Philbo
Title: Not firing
Message: Paul, if the engine is turning but not firing then you need to check the fuel and ignition systems.

Oct 20, 2002 - 20:58 - From: SD
Title: Paul
Message: Hey Paul, do the power doorlocks work? If not, then your fuel cut-off switch is probably tripped. They used to mount this switch near the battery but apparently when you slam the convertible top cover, it trips the switch. Check if yours is still located there. It might also be located behind the drivers seat or on the backbone in the battery compartment. It's a little black box with a round indicator that pops out when activated.

Oct 20, 2002 - 22:14 - From: Doug
Title: Falling in Love Again
Message: Well the wife and kids are away, so I took the Elan out for some fun today. Mind me it has been 2 months since the last "real" drive (longest ever) and now that the NEW CAS is in I found all my problems solved (anecdotal here please note). I spent the last 2 days detailing and waxing the Elan for the upcoming WCLM in California (along with surprise cosmetic enhancement installed especially for WCLM!!)! Went on some ""FABULOUS"" roads thru Sonoma county wine country at some ungodly speeds (repenting now)! Also, be it known that I have replaced (for the meantime only) my K&N intake and HKS BOV with the STOCK inlet and filter AND stock upper IC pipe for emissions testing. Overall impressions: (1) I had a bit too much wine tasting (don't tell the wife); (2) The car still REALLY flies despite the OE intake, filter and upper IC pipe--I can only attribute this to the 2.5" exhaust and pre-cat replacement that I do have--the boost response is superb and allowed me to pass slower targets at will on winding 2 lane roads! (3) the EBC pads and rotors ARE adequate for daily+ driving (though I still hanker for more!); (4) The suspension IS aging and I need to order the adjustable struts and some new bushings; (5) the Elan handles incredibly and allows the driver to exceed the handling which he should be allowed; (6) What could be better than an Elan in wine country?? Sorry, but I had to vent--I am really impressed with the Elan and I have to point out that as far as I am concerned the #1 upgrade is the MBC, followed by #2 as the 2.5" exhaust WITH the precat eliminator (what awesome boost response!!). Cheers!

Oct 20, 2002 - 22:22 - From: Doug
Title: Monterey. CA WestCoastLotusMeet this weekend !!
Message: Time to ante up--who's going to the WCLM this weekend?? Myself, Joel, Mark, Peter, and who?? I will be there Saturday all day only. Email me if you are going and we can compile cell phone numbers and plans, etc . . .

Oct 20, 2002 - 22:47 - From: Tony V
Title: Engine Swap...
Message: I have a blown engine in the elan I just purchased...and I thought I had all my bases covered. I just bought a 91 Isuzu Turbo motor to use a replacement for the block, head and crank. I was under the impression, after talking with people that I know..that the engines were the same. I just got an email from a friend that says "he doubts it"....Is there anybody on this list that confirm this one way or the other. I have the engine shipping Tues..and still can stop it..

Oct 21, 2002 - 01:24 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: RE: Difficult (NO) starting
Message: Another thing that I would check is the Alarm's immobilizer. It seems that it sometimes fails and the car acts like it has a fuel delivery problem. But it also could be the fuel pump or the general reset switch (located behind the driver's seat).

Oct 21, 2002 - 04:11 - From: Philbo
Title: New engines
Message: Tony V, sorry to hear about the blown engine, sounds expensive. The actual Isuzu engine number is 4XE1-T(urbo). The best place to ask about compatibility is here: http://www.kipanderson.net/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl  as they are always trying to swap engines/heads/cranks/etc from all engines in the Isuzu range!

Oct 21, 2002 - 07:20 - From: Tony V
Title: Engine Swap
Message: Thanks Philbo....That is the engine I have on the way...I guess I am all right. Hopefully it will bolt right up to the Lotus ancillaries. Thanks for the link. Will check it out.

Oct 22, 2002 - 02:02 - From: Doug
Title: My own--personal--ElanScan
Message: Many thanks to my laptop cable source out there !!! Well I got that sweet little cable today; and how could I go to bed without trying it out? I posted some runs in the ElanScan area. Interesting my Elan Superchip is "PROM ID=5DB" . . . Haven't looked at the data yet except to see my half-hearted 0-60 run in 6.6 seconds with sh!t going on all over like hitting the rev limiter then the boost cut all with the laptop glare in my face on a dark road . . . I'll have the program with me at WCLM this weekend for others to try out if they wish! Cheers.

Oct 22, 2002 - 07:42 - From: Paul D
Title: Rubbing Noise
Message: I am getting a rubbing noise only when i turn left and not all the time, it is coming from the passenger side (RHD car) sounds like the tire hitting the inner arch wall, but I cant see any rubbing and the brake line is securely fixed. Does this sound like a bearing?, I have put new brake pads in recently.. Thanks

Oct 22, 2002 - 12:33 - From: PAUL
Title: Rubbing Noise
Message: Paul D. Ref your rubbing noise, I had exactly the same symptoms as you. Turned out the rear silencer pipe was rubbing on the shock absorber (visable marks on the shock casing) My pipe was u/s anyway so replacing it and the mounting rubbers solved it for me. Hope this helps

Oct 23, 2002 - 13:26 - From: Bryn
Title: Rubbing Noise
Message: Paul, if its not what PAUL suggests, do check the arch liners again, my tyres catch on both sides just before full lock (goes off on full lock). Place they catch is in front of where the liner is moulded around the metal to rubber brake pipe join.

Oct 23, 2002 - 14:05 - From: PAUL
Title: MCBV
Message: If any one is interested in purchasing a Manually Controlled Bleed Valve (MCBV) I can supply them complete (within UK) for £25. If interested E-mail me for pictures and details

Oct 23, 2002 - 18:27 - From: Derrick
Title: anyone using 235/40/17s?
Message: I just recd some 235/40/17s which I intend to use on my Elan. Compared to the 205/45/16s, these look HUGE and WIDE.....I haven't found the 17in rim I will use yet, but cant imagine these things on my car....anyone out there running this size? I saw a setup @the TopEnd website owned by Seamus Blackey who was using 235/40/17s on 8.5 in rims. I really cant see who the tire will clear the wheel well... fyi: tirerack.com, has Yokohama AVS Intermediate 235/40/17s for $63!!! each.

Oct 23, 2002 - 23:13 - From: SD
Title: tires
Message: Hey Derrick, My car's previous owner had 225/45R17 tires mounted on 7.5" wide wheels w/ a 35mm offset. They didn't work too well, the rears left heavy rubber marks on the tops of the wheel wells and the front tires hit the fenders causing an uneven door/fender gap. You could push the fenders back into position, but one decent bump would cause the fender to hit the door when you got out. The elan's springs are way to soft - the large gap was put there because it was needed!

Oct 24, 2002 - 06:42 - From: Ben
Title: Rear light assembly
Message: Hi guys, I'm looking for either a set of rear light housing/assembly (ie all plastic parts) or just the left hand one. If anyone has any spares or second hand ones in decent condition I'd be really appreciative. I'm in the UK at the moment but depending on the price I'd be happy to have them shipped from just about anywhere. Thanks.

Oct 24, 2002 - 08:15 - From: Tony V
Title: Engine Swap...and Jim Manson's Elan
Message: Hello all...Well...yesterday...we (not me doing the physical work...but I was there the whole time) got the engine out of the Elan and started to swap the parts to the "new" block from the Isuzu Impulse Turbo...looks like the same block to me..will know more later. I also just purchased Jim Manson's Red Elan...the one he crashed at Watkins Glen...Picked it up on Tues. nite....Jim has spent quite a bit getting this car put back to almost as good as new. Now...the car is tweaked here and there..and will never be "straight" again...but it looks nice...is RED (I never really liked White)...and runs like a bear...handles well...and for what I want it for...a daily driver that I can share with my 16 year old son..(don't have to insure it for collision, for those that have 16 year old sons...you know how much that saves)...suits me fine.. I might even drive it through the winter....here in UpState NY...salt and all.....I will be selling the white one once we get the engine back running. I will be posting pictures of the engine swap project on the lotusowners.com website...

Oct 24, 2002 - 10:54 - From: jeremy
Title: dump valve?
Message: Any of you UK chaps have a dump valve and the necessary plumbing you want to sell? Please e-mail. Cheers.

Oct 24, 2002 - 17:49 - From: Aris Bertsatos
Title: ECU
Message: Dear friends, i would like to know if elan S2 uses the same ecu with SE. In other words if i gave up my ecu or after being "broken" replaced it with a used one from an SE should i have a problem? Or is it risky?

Oct 24, 2002 - 21:24 - From: Jeff
Title: Welcome back Tony V.!
Message: Welcome back to the M100 fold (although you never really left:)

Oct 24, 2002 - 21:49 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Headlamp lifting
Message: Right on cue for the end of 'daylight saving', both of the headlamps decided not to lift, just wondered if anyone out there has had a similar experience and can shed some light (sorry!) on the subject. I'm guessing it may be the switch or perhaps a relay, as both lamps are effected. Each lamp motor has its own fuse so those are unlikely suspects? Any ideas?

Oct 24, 2002 - 22:26 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: "Dude looks like a Lady"
Message: Page 50 of your December Sport Compact car mag features a 1993 Isuzu Impulse (direct quote here) "that uses the same 1.8 liter powerplant and suspension found in the Lotus Elan. The car (stock) weighs 2200 pounds." Man, those Impulses are just Elans with coupe bodies, huh? I'll keep that in mind and save some dough the next time.

Oct 25, 2002 - 00:36 - From: Tony V
Title: Thanks guys...and a question
Message: Nice to have all the welcome backs...but you are right ..I really never left..This is what makes Lotus ownership so GREAT....Great people....who are always willing to help one another..... Dan Miller and I were talking today..and I said we had pulled the engine on the white Elan and were transferring parts..(and when I say we...I mean them..I watched...not that I don't have the expertise..I just cannot lift heavy things anymore..)..Dan said that he read somewhere that there was one place that had to be filed/ground down on the Impulse engine to make something fit. He said it was in a book..He is looking..but as the guys are starting to assemble...does anyone else know. Now that I think about it..I think I remember something as well..like it was in the turbo area..or at the back..any body have the book that mentions this...or remember.

Oct 25, 2002 - 01:01 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: RE: Headlamp lifting
Message: Dear Brian, I had this problem a couple of times, and the first thing I did was to manually raise the headlight pods to the half and try the switch again. If it works, then it might have been a low battery problem (the motors need quite a bit of power). If it doesn't work, try to check the relays and connections located under the cover on the top of your driver's console. If you are able to use a multitester, unplug the motors' connectors and measure if there are 12V when you turn the headlight switch on. If not, then you have a relay or similar problem.

Oct 25, 2002 - 06:28 - From: robert collins
Title: headlamp lifting
Message: Brian, I had a headlamp problem only last week. The lights lit up, but the pods would not raise. I cured it by jiggling the electrical plugs on the headlamp control module. The module is a black box mounted in the engine bay on the bulkhead, just to the right of centre (as you look at it from the front of the car). It has 2 vertical rows of about 5 or 6 wires plugged into it - I just unplugged them and shoved them back on with a bit of a wiggle. Cured it for now at least.

Oct 25, 2002 - 07:26 - From: Laurence
Title: ECU
Message: Aris, I'm no expert on this subject and would also be very interested to know the answer. However, Alan (From Thailand) who tunes Elises did mention to me that on an Elise the ECU on cars with Air Con is different to those without and you can't just fit a tuning chip for a non Air Con car to an Air con car as the wiring loom is quite different. I have no idea if this kind of thing would apply to an M100 but the other thing to consider is that S2's have Catalytic converters and additional emissions control features that at least UK spec S1's don't. I would have thought that this could have implications for the Engine Management system. I would also be interested in any other opinions! Laurence

Oct 25, 2002 - 07:48 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: RE: Headlamp lifting
Message: Cheers Robert, I did that too, but I forgot to mention it! (aging problems???). The location is where you say it is on RHD cars, and on the opposite side on LHD cars. :)

Oct 25, 2002 - 09:33 - From: Laurence
Title: Bolt sizes
Message: Doug, For the record I purchased 6 stainless socket head cap screws recently (for the black cover that goes over the spark plugs) and discovered the size given in the bolting list on this site is wrong. The correct size is M5x10mm not M4x10mm.Regards Laurence

Oct 25, 2002 - 10:45 - From: Dave M.
Title: anti-roll bars
Message: After recently finding suspension parts for my other "odd-to-fit" car (my Scooby Legacy) including a used, thicker anti-roll bar, I got thinking about the Elan. Does anyone know of a fabricator that might want to take a stab at thicker anti-roll bars? I'm not sure who Bill was thinking of using when he wasted my time and money having me send my bars to be "prototyped", but either we could try them again if someone knows the name, or use someone else. I think a thicker bar in front mated with an adjustable in the rear and some new struts would REALLY help the car. After the lean I continue to get on the track, I've got to do something. E-mail me if you're interested in either front and/or rear bars so I can get a number and I'll check some shops in my area, too. Might as well pull the bars again this winter while the rest of the suspension is out...

Oct 25, 2002 - 11:33 - From: Doug
Title: bolts
Message: Laurence, Matthew will update his list soon. I have it listed correctly here though: http://www.lotuselancentral.com/commonparts.htm#endcap  Matthew, you can add that the nut which holds down the windshield wipers are M8 with M8 lock nuts under them.

Oct 25, 2002 - 12:22 - From: Scott
Title: Headlights
Message: Gentlemen, I was one of the first to experience the dreaded headlight control module failure. I was able to confirm it was my module quite EASILY. I removed the module (2 screws) and then opened it up. The smell and sight of burned circuit board told me all I needed to know. If you don't want to go to that extreme, the other option was to use a 12volt electic source (I used my battery charger) and made direct temporary connections to each pod motor. Connect it one way, they go up, the other way they go down. That one test made me feel better than it was not the motors. By the way, my write up about this in on Doug's site. -Scott

Oct 25, 2002 - 13:07 - From: Dan
Title: Headlights
Message: Brian - check out Scott's write-up: the modules are Firebird parts. Tony - after reviewing Mark Hughes book I found a not that the transmission had to have a "boss" (part of the casting) removed to fit - not the engine....I believe this is the only mod.

Oct 25, 2002 - 13:30 - From: Philbo
Title: Roll bars
Message: Wow Dave, I didn't realise Bill didn't actually produce anything for you! What did he do, get you to send the bars to him and then he sent them back with a "sorry can't do this after all" note? Sheesh. I'd be pretty interested in some bars, but I guess the transport costs over here would mean it would be easier/cheaper to find a local fabber. You really would have to go with stiffer rear as well as a stiffer front otherwise the front on it's own would lead to greater understeer.

Oct 25, 2002 - 13:50 - From: Laurence
Title: Roll - over - bars
Message: Personally I would quite a like roll over bar (or hoops). I have tried all the major suppliers in the UK and the MX5 specialists (as it's a similar cockpit size). No one seems to have ever developed anything for the M100 in the UK. It seems the hoops I have seen on Mx5's are 'Styling Hoops' as no suppliers are prepared to warranty that the would actually work if it came down to it! A lady I have met in the UK managed to roll her M100 (fairly slowly) and survived but demonstrated in the process that the windscreen pillars do not do the job of a roll over bar! Has anyone else come across a company in UK or Europe that has made a roll over bar for the M100 (suitable for road use)? Laurence

Oct 25, 2002 - 14:05 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Laurence, bolt size list
Message: Bolt, Spark Plug Cover, already says M5 x 10. You must have read M4 x 10 from some other part of the list. Like OJ, I am innocent. Umm, I mean UNLIKE O.J., I am innocent!

Oct 25, 2002 - 16:07 - From: Aris Bertsatos
Title: Re: ECU
Message: Dear Laurence, thank you for answering to my message, the last information i ve got from the two out of three people that service lotus and maserati cars in athens, greece, was that the ecu is the same so i placed the SE Ecu on my S2 and checked everything with the TECH1 diagnostic...and everything looks ok...i hope that they know what they are doing....otherwise i think i ll be in a lot of trouble....thank you again

Oct 25, 2002 - 16:20 - From: Doug
Title: Bars
Message: I am fond of bars, and even those on cars. Dave, count me in for sure--as long as I can powder-coat them yellow! I spoke to Ed M. about finding a way to make an Elan roll bar in the Lotus 340R style with oval tubing in arches--I feel it would look the best on the Elan and make it look current in style--if anyone has any leads for this let us know--can Surrey Welding do anything like this??

Oct 25, 2002 - 17:27 - From: robert collins
Title: Aris' ECU
Message: Aris, when you put the replacement ECU in, did you use your original MEMCAL chip in it? The computer program on the chip will definitely be different between SE and S2, because the S2 has a catalyst and oxygen sensor, which the SE doesn't have.

Oct 25, 2002 - 18:14 - From: Philbo
Title: Roll bars
Message: Let's be clear here that Dave and I are talking about anti-roll bars as part of the suspension and handling and are found underneath the car, as opposed to roll bars which are found on top! The main issue with installing some into the Elan would be finding some parts of the chassis that are strong enough to take the load. A simple pair of hoops behind the seats aren't enough, they'd need to be stayed fore or aft. That would result in quite a bit of intrusion and disruption to the cockpit. However, some circuit users in the US must have done it (isn't it a regulation over there)?

Oct 25, 2002 - 18:58 - From: Tony V
Title: Roll OVER Bars
Message: As long as we are talking about Roll Bars...as in the kind that go in the cockpit. I know that Dave Meyers has one from Auto Europe...and I bought one with my Green Elan..that I sold to Randy Maurer...then Randy and I sold the Roll Bar to Mike Kennedy in Florida...(you guys all following this) I now have another of the Roll Bars from Auto Europe with the car I bought from Jim Manson. The bar is out of the car if any body wants me to take pictures of it, let me know and there are also pictures of it (installed in Jim's car) on the http://www.lotusowners.com  website..in the Repairs Section. I am going up to Auto Europe soon on other business, and have sort of a business relationship with them.....I know the bars are about $600 or so...(don't know the exact price) I would be happy to handle the purchase and shipping if a bunch of the guys in Europe all want to get together and pay for the cheapest way to get them over there.

Oct 26, 2002 - 14:51 - From: stephen reid
Title: 4wd
Message: hello folks, I've just bought the road test/comparisons book and read a bit about the the nice men at lotus thinking of developing a 4wd elan. did they ever make one or has anyone thought about building one? cheers, stephen.

Oct 26, 2002 - 15:26 - From: Laurence
Title: Bolts & Rollover Bars
Message: Firstly, Matthew my apologies, I think I must have looked at the Cam Cover blow-by box (what ever that is)! Philbo, I did realise you were talking about anti-roll bars it just got me thinking about the other type. Tony, thanks for the info. Nice site and you even have pictures of Maggie's rather flat car - which is exactly the one I was talking about! That Rollover bar looks like the real thing to me, but probably not an easy thing to ship over here. Would it be practical for you to measure it up for us and take a picture or two of it out of the car? Regards Laurence

Oct 26, 2002 - 21:58 - From: George
Title: Visiting U.K.
Message: Hi Guys, I'll be going to England, I think, sometime next month. I'm wondering if anyone has good connections with some travel agents that can get me some tickets cheap! I was looking around the internet for ticket prices, I found some ridiculously expensive quotes... Like around $7,000 for business class round trip from San Francisco to London... I can get a new turbo system, suspension, and bunch of other crap with that money... By the way, when I go to England, I'll be in London for a couple of days, and probably in Yorkshire for 10 days or so. Hopefully, I can meet up with some of the fellow Elan brothers there! Take Care, George

Oct 27, 2002 - 00:53 - From: Dave M.
Title: I can't stop shooting myself in the foot!
Message: "What did he do, get you to send the bars to him and then he sent them back with a "sorry can't do this after all" note?" Um...part one is right. Part two was me requesting them back after 3 months. I received no explanation. Par for the course, eh? ;)

Oct 27, 2002 - 11:41 - From: Mark
Title: roll over bars
Message: I'm told by Auto Europe that I bought the last roll bar they in stock about 6 months ago. they still have the jig, so if there is enough interest, they might produce another batch. Its designed specifically for the M100 - AutoEurope is a Lotus dealer and the owner had one designed for his personal M100 when they first hit the US. The bar drops right into the car and bolts onto 5 attachment points. The only modification required is to cut a small opening in the bottom of the convertible top storage compartment because the rear attachment plate bolts to the frame under the compartment.

Oct 27, 2002 - 15:48 - From: Tony V
Title: Roll Bar
Message: I would be happy to take pictures.. May I suggest( with the permission of Auto Europe) that you guys pay to have me take it to a draftsman...to do a drawing..Perhaps the Auto Europe guys would want something for the "design"...I could ask..

Oct 27, 2002 - 17:10 - From: robert collins
Title: George - visiting Yorkshire?
Message: George - Where in Yorkshire are you planning to visit? It's a big place but there are one or two of us in Elan owners in the area and a couple of Lotos owners groups who meet every month. Drop me a line or check www.norlog.net 

Oct 27, 2002 - 17:36 - From: David Langdon
Title: Insurance / Tappet noise
Message: A few people were discussing insurance a couple of weeks ago. I live in the UK, I'm 29 and found Lancaster Insurance a £100 cheaper than Footman James. For £270 I got a 3000 miles a year fully comp policy (it's a second car so restricting mileage was OK for me) on my 1990 Elan SE. Being more than 10 years old it's regarded as a classic or cherished vehicle. This policy doesn't consider no claims (its all on my main vehicle anyway) and even includes a pretty good breakdown cover. Glad to hear the hissing/wheezing PAS is normal by the way! Is it also normal for the engine to sound a bit 'tappetty', particularly when cold at revs just above idle?

Oct 28, 2002 - 00:23 - From: Doug
Title: West Coast Lotus Meet
Message: Had a great time at the West Coast Lotus Meet. Thanks to George for letting me crash at his place. Met some Elan owners and saw lots of great cars. Got to drool into a new Elise and even see Gordonie's updated Mellow Yellow V8 Esprit back in one piece. Did 2 laps of Laguna Seca in the (painfully slowly paced) Lotus parade--with I'm sure the slowest lpa time ever posted on the circuit (logged it on ElanScan for the fun of it). Everyone liked my surprise = the yellow stripes I put on the Elan--good enough to help me win the Concours trophy in the Elan/Elise class! See my pictures here: http://www.lotuselancentral.com/images/WCLM/Dscn3156.jpg  and
 http://www.lotuselancentral.com/images/WCLM/Dscn3145.jpg  
More to come when I can post a proper page for the event! Learned some things on the trip: The new CAS also rectified my slowly decreasing MPG I noticed over the last year. Got a hair over 30MPG on the trip. Decided my struts are most certainly shot--felt like I was driving an old Caddy (Cadillac for you right hookers) riding over some undulations a few times. I still love this car . . .

Oct 28, 2002 - 00:24 - From: John
Title: High Mileage Elans
Message: Do Elans boast the highest mileage on their clocks of any Loti? Seen several examples with 200k+. All the classic Lotus cars seem to be in pieces getting retrofitted powdercoated Spyder chassis. And a lot of the Elises are being put into hibernation for the Winter it seems. So the Elans appear to be the workhorses of the lot:) Cheers.

Oct 28, 2002 - 01:11 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Anti Roll Bars
Message: Dave, here are a few Chassis shops in your area (MI)that may be able to custom build some parts for you: - www.chassisShop.com 800-530-9494. A&A Manufacturing 616-846-1730. Howe Racing Enterprises 989-435-7080 Wheel to Wheel 810-757-1961

Oct 28, 2002 - 05:40 - From: Owen
Title: overboosting
Message: As i've mentioned before, my car suffers from very occaisional overboost. It went for a service at Chris Foulds last week (excellent place, highly recommended!) and he's checked that the wastegate actuator rod is free, so i'm suspecting that it's just due to the stainless exhaust. Would an MBCV stop my occaisional overboosting as well as putting an even bigger grin on my face every time i drive my elan?

Oct 28, 2002 - 06:00 - From: robert collins
Title: Owen - overboost
Message: Owen if anything a MBC valve might make you more likely to hit the fuel-cut, because you'll be driving closer to the overboost limit all the time. There are a couple of proven options for preventing fuel cuts due to overboost. One is to swap the sports silencer for a quieter, baffled silencer. This cured the problem on my car. Another alternative, with probably the worst cost / benefit ratio is to take your car to BBR and let them fit their overboost kit. Cost from memory about £300 for probably about £20 worth of components. Another option is to take your car to a tuning shop and have them fit a "fuel-cut defender" which I'm guessing will cost you about £150ish. Again for about £20 worth of components. Last (and definitely least in cost) build your own fuel-cut defender for about £20 with components from Maplin. I've done this and it works. If you have Elanscan working, take a look at my last batch of files to see it in action. Rob.

Oct 28, 2002 - 06:46 - From: Paul D
Title: Fuel Cut Defender
Message: Thanks Paul and Byrn, still trying to locate rubbing noise but I don't have a garage and the weather has been so miserable that I have spent most of my time in the pub. Doug.. nice stripes, never seen them on a elan before, looks great. Robert cool stuff... what does (boost abs) mean and how does your FCD work does it give greater performance or just help fueling.

Oct 28, 2002 - 06:59 - From: Matthew welsh
Title: color
Message: Nice touch the green spark-plug cover. I rechristen your ride the Irish-mobile, the elf-mobile, or perhaps simply, "the four-leaf-clover"! Those yellow-stripes removable or permanent? I'm glad to see I'm not alone in striking out on a vastly different color sceme for the engine. Good work!

Oct 28, 2002 - 07:23 - From: robert collins
Title: Boost abs, FCD
Message: There are two different ways of defining pressure measurement - gauge and absolute. Gauge pressure means the pressure is measured relative to atmospheric pressure, like your tyre pressure gauge. Absolute vacuum means the pressure is measured relative to absolute (total) vacuum. On the absolute scale, atmospheric pressure is equal to just over 1 bar (abs). In gauge pressure, atmospheric pressure is equal to 0 bar (gauge). In Elan terms, the fun gauge on your dashboard measures boost in bar gauge where the MAP sensor on the engine measures in bar absolute. _______Oh no, I've gone crosseyed!_______FCDs work by interfering with the signal from the MAP sensor, fooling the engine management into thinking you're getting less boost than you actually are. The MAP sensor sends a voltage signal to the ECU, which rises with increasing boost pressure. The FCD intercepts this signal. It's a voltage limiter, preventing the signal voltage from going high enough to trigger the fuel-cut. Standard fuelling is conservatively rich while on-boost. By increasing the boost pressure, you burn more of that fuel, hence gaining higher power. The danger is that if you increase boost too much, bye-bye engine:(

Oct 28, 2002 - 09:04 - From: Dave M.
Title: fun with boost
Message: "The danger is that if you increase boost too much, bye-bye engine:( " Whatever do you mean, Robert? I was just at 21 psi yesterday! ;) just kidding Owen...I've got different fuel injectors and a 3-bar MAP. It's killing me not having datalogging yet as I'd love to see what intake temps are as well as what the computer is doing to timing. All gauges look good (EGT at ~1550, fuel still quite rich), however the car reaches triple digits SO fast now I can't look for long. As for the boost, I installed the red HKS spring (thanks Scott!) and it got me up to 21 psi (from 18). Thanks to Laurence for making me think about overspinning the turbo, too. What I'm planning for now is to set the HKS for as high as it will go, then back off the MBC until boost goes down a touch (say, 19 psi). Then I'll have wastegate operation to control boost plus a "safety valve" if the wastegate fails. I'll get to the 25 psi level apparently after re-doing the intake path when I do the FMIC. At that point I'll likely eliminate the HKS and do a vacuum-only operating BOV. Until then, once I get the datalog operational I'll tend to all the little concerns at 21 psi. I may have a dyno lined up for this weekend, so I'll get a good base number to see what the exhaust, leaning out the fuel mixture, and more boost does. I'm hoping 270-275 HP for now...

Oct 28, 2002 - 09:06 - From: Dave M.
Title: Doug's stripes
Message: Love 'em! Nice pic with the vintage Elan in the background, too. A 26R? I'll add to Matt's suggestion and call it the "four-leaf clover EATER". ;)

Oct 28, 2002 - 09:08 - From: Dave M.
Title: nope
Message: Re-looked at the pic. Not a 26R (drool)...no fender flares.

Oct 28, 2002 - 11:20 - From: robert collins
Title: too much boost
Message: Of course I was talking about just cranking up the boost on an unmodified engine! Judging by the Elanscan data I've seen so far, 0.95 bar is as much as is sensible with standard fuelling.

Oct 28, 2002 - 12:57 - From: Philbo
Title: Boost
Message: Of course the safety level of boost, even on a stock engine, depends on how much fuel is being dumped into the cylinder to avoid detonation. My gauge reads around 1.1+bar at max boost, and my exhaust emission lambdas are still rich. Of course, this could mean anything - that my CO pot is turned right up, that my gauge is inaccurate (could be I've stretched a spring or summat by going beyond the vertical!), or anything else. The main thing is obviously to ensure you don't lean out the engine, and I'd suggest that keeping things below .95bar unless you KNOW you're still rich at higher boosts is a sensible guideline. If all goes well I might get MY new turbo on tomorrow :)

Oct 28, 2002 - 13:48 - From: Adam
Title: want an elan
Message: I am looking to buy an elan asap so has anyone got any ideas where the best place to look is. Prepared to spend~£8500 and don't really want to travel more than 100 miles or so from nottingham,uk. Any advice would be mucho appreciated.

Oct 28, 2002 - 14:08 - From: Jade
Title: AC Evaporator
Message: After years of no use I have decided to revive my elan. I have found the AC Evaporator is dead and need a new one. Does any one know who makes the one we use so that I do not need to get it from Lotus. Thanks Jade

Oct 28, 2002 - 14:37 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: Track Day Recap
Message: Hello, all! Just thought I'd pass along a few comments regarding my M100 and its performance at track days held last weekend at Homestead-Miami Speedway. First and foremost the brake upgrade (AP Racing 4-pot calipers, AP slotted discs, as supplied by B.G. Developments). The brake pedal went soft midway through the first 30 minute session on Friday. I half-expected this, even though I bedded the brakes in thoroughly the week before. I backed off for a few laps and the pedal came back. The tyres (Kumho Ecsta V700's - heat-cycled) performed VERY well. The provided incredible levels of grip under braking & cornering. Saturday was better yet, as I gained confidence in the brakes and the chassis. The brake balance was perfect. I had to really try to get the rear end to want to come around by jumping on them entering the faster corners or releasing them quite abruptly mid-corner (trail-braking). The M100 outclassed everything on the track under braking & in the twisty bits, except for Ferrari Challenge cars (Modenas w/slicks, wings & HUGE Brembos fitted) and IMSA GT Porsches (Gunnar Racing Team entries). It was ton-of-fun passing everything from 400 HP Vipers to assorted "F" cars to Vettes and Boxster S's. The Elan actually closed under braking, and stayed right with the Ferrari Challenge cars through turns 9-12. BTW, they were being driven hard and well by veteran pilots. As for the tyres, they were cooked after 2 track days (10 thirty minute sessions total). The rather hot weather (87 Deg. F) and nature of the track took a heavy toll on the Kumhos. They are completely slick and a bit lumpy (harsh vibration over 45 MPH) - but I'm ready to order another set, they were that good! Anyway it was fun to have SO many folks ask me about the M100 and look bewildered when told it is a FWD four-banger turbo that made those other much more powerful and expensive machines look a touch silly on the track! Cheers! Jose M. Armengol Calypso Red '91 M100 (Federal spec)

Oct 28, 2002 - 20:28 - From: Doug
Title: track, stripes, spring
Message: Jose, your track tales have me a little light headed and sweaty. Wish I was there to cheer you on! I hope you did this too with the top down? Is your boost turned up? And were you using 205-16 V700 tires? Send me some track pictures if you can ever. As for the stripes, they are 'vinyl racing stripes' ordered online and put on by me in about an hour--like a huge bumper sticker. I waxed it up good first to aid with removal--though I may leave them there for the Winter? I got the inspiration from the new Elise type 25 (SCHWING!! see here: http://www.pistonheads.com/lotus/elise/default.asp?storyId=4769 ) I included the classic Elan in the picture on purpose. Dave, where did you get the 'red spring' cause I may decide to get one?

Oct 28, 2002 - 22:41 - From: Kris Y
Title: New CAS Head scratcher
Message: Hi guys...just got a new CAS through www.isuzuparts.net for $85 including shipping. Went to put it in and the center spindle with the two teeth doesn't turn (just makes a big thud noise when I try to move it). The old one spins like a demon. I'm guessing my new part is defective. Can anyone confirm that before I send it back. Is there some sort of safety or release that I don't know about that they use for shipping? Many thanks in advance!

Oct 29, 2002 - 01:19 - From: Doug
Title: CAS
Message: Kris, I just installed a replacement Isuzu one myself. I did notice the new one turned with more friction than the one I took out, which spun freely. You should be able to turn the wheel by hand though!! You don't need to take off the black cover cause the CAS can only install one way. There is no trick otherwise so it may be defective if it won't turn?

Oct 29, 2002 - 07:23 - From: Richard Steele
Title: New CAS Head scratcher
Message: Kris Y - If the shaft doesn't turn, take off the big black plastic cover and check that none of the sensors are touching the big silver rotating disk that has cut out's in it. If everything is clear then the shaft should turn. From memory I thought there was some magnetic force exerted by either one of the sensors or the big disk so try turning the disk rather than the shaft.

Oct 29, 2002 - 07:45 - From: James
Title: re: want an elan
Message: Adam - you've picked a great time to buy! Prices have crashed since I bought last year and now that it's winter (well feels like it) they're even lower. The fact that you've found this site before buying also puts you in a very good position - there's a ton of useful postings on here (try to get through all the archives) which will help you make the right choice. Make sure you read the purchasing an elan section (I'm sure you already will have). Then checking the 'for sale' section would be a good start - there's a couple of recent postings for England based cars. Once you have an idea of what to look for get yourself around and see as many Elans as you can - that way you'll get an idea of what wear and tear to expect on the car beyond its 10th anniversary and what not to accept. Take your time - its on your side until spring - and you'll find the perfect Elan for you. Good Luck!

Oct 29, 2002 - 11:07 - From: owen
Title: Adam - buying an elan
Message: Adam - James is right, prices are definintely a bit lower now winter's on it's way. I've not long bought an elan, and went to see a couple beforehand. I'm based in loughborough, not far from you, and travelled quite a way, but less than the 100 miles limit. Try www.autotrader.co.uk , there's 22 on there at the moment, less than 10k and within 100 miles of loughborough. Depends what colour you want too, most are BRG or red (or pink!), if you want anything other than that you may have to be prepared to wait or travel a bit further - i drove all the way to manchester for my silver one. Any other questions, email me off line if you want

Oct 29, 2002 - 11:25 - From: Doc Fizzix
Title: Need a NEW ELAN
Message: I am looking for a yellow Elan in the states, if you got one that you want to sell send me an email. Sold mine a year ago and regret it everyday, what the hell was I thinking????

Oct 29, 2002 - 13:44 - From: Dave M.
Title: repeat buyers
Message: First Tony, now Al...let this be a lesson to everyone: don't sell your Elan. ;) I'll keep my eyes open for a yellow one around here... Jose, great to hear the good track report. What pads are you using and how did you like them? Doug, a fellow Elan owner was good enough to give me his spring. I will return it if I go to a different BOV over the winter, so maybe it could just "bounce" to you. I may caution against installing it unless you are running higher boost (18-21) however. The spring also controls the opening of the valve when you lift the throttle. I'm not sure it is opening and relieving pressure under anything but high boost situations right now in my car due to it being cranked as far in as it will go. I'm taking off the BOV-to-intake rerouting I did to see when I get the "phoosh". In order to gain more boost, I may be defeating the purpose of the BOV function under lighter loads (15 psi as a lighter load?!? Odd how frame of reference changes...).

Oct 29, 2002 - 13:53 - From: Doug
Title: BOV
Message: Dave, I think I have the red spring actually (red paint dot on the HKS screw--was yours a blue paint dot???). Thus I think I need to plumb in the other port on the valve to help keep the valve closed under boost.

Oct 29, 2002 - 15:25 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: Re: Homestead Track Days
Message: Doug, you bet - top down, boost up (.80 BAR for track, .90 BAR for street) 205/45VR16 Kumho V700's slowly wasting away! Fortunately there was a professional motorsports photographer at the event, and he got some great shots. I've ordered a few, and should have them next week. I'll let you know when I have them in (my personal fave is one of the M100, with passenger going past a Fly Yellow Modena Spyder). Being an open wheel and shifter cart racer, the coolest thing about this event is they allowed passengers in the "touring" group. Many of my fellow ALOOF (a.k.a. Florida Lotus Club) members made it to the event, even though mine was the only Lotus on track. I took those who were brave enough out on track - a great time was had by all. As an aside, though my water temp climbed and stayed at the 3/4 mark (and on a couple of occasions past 3/4), even when running in clean air. The coolant had been changed, and there was no air in the system - the ambient temp was 87 Deg. F I suppose the radiator capacity is not up to the task of cooling the engine for extended high rev track use. Has anyone had similar experience w/cooling system? BTW, the stripes look great. Cheers! -Jose

Oct 29, 2002 - 15:38 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: Pads
Message: Dave M, I used Ferrodo pads recommended by Dave B. @ B.G. Developments (I dont remember the Ferrodo part/compound number). I haven't checked for wear yet, though I intend to do that this weekend when I get around to fitting new SSR GT1 wheels I should have in from Tirerack by Friday. The actual performance on track was great. Good power from cold (though they work best at temp, of course!) and not much in the way of brake dust (which leads me to think they may not have worn much, but may be rough on the rotors). I'll have a clearer picture over the weekend and will post my findings (including the actual Ferrodo pad type) next week. Cheers! Jose

Oct 29, 2002 - 16:23 - From: Kris Y
Title: New CAS Headscratcher
Message: Thanks Doug & Richard. I'm glad the new one didn't fit in or who knows what would have happened if I started her up. Decided not to open the thing as they're sending a new one out. Once again it's nice to get some support and info before making a bonehead move.

Oct 29, 2002 - 17:27 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Anyone want a 2.5" exhaust?
Message: I am buying one of Milan Ivancevic's stainless steel 2.5" downpipes he makes for the Impulse. He is giving me a special price because he wants to know what mods he must make to have it fit an M100 Elan. Once I have paid (a shop) to have this done I will ship it back to him so he can take measurements of it and be able to produce them specifically for M100 Elan's. My question is, while my car is in the shop does anyone have any interest in me having a custom ceramic-coated mandrel-bent 2.5" exhaust put on it, just to be taken off and shipped to you? The total cost including the aforementioned downpipe will be just under a grand. If so, let me know in the next 2 weeks. This system can be made with or without a cat and will be superior in quality and fit to the one formerly sold by IsuzuPerformance. I know as this shop made an exhaust for my XR2 which is head & shoulders above Bill's.

Oct 29, 2002 - 21:20 - From: Don Ferrario
Title: exhaust
Message: $1,000 just for the downpipe?!!

Oct 29, 2002 - 21:54 - From: Doug
Title: exhaust
Message: Don, I think he means for the downpipe AND the entire exhaust with I'm not sure how much ceramic coated. That price is pretty darn good!! I did not get my exhaust parts ceramic coated, but now that I plan to keep the car another 10 years, I wish I had!!

Oct 30, 2002 - 01:24 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: $1000 for ENTIRE exhaust
Message: Stainless Steel down-pipe with rest of the exhaust ceramic coated. We are talking a ball park figure here. If you want a cat, it might be $1100. The point is, it will be a FIRST rate system that not just any muffler shop could do. It is being done at a "speed" shop that specializes in custom work, especially custom turbos. I would only be charging you cost on it, no profit on my part involved... so I really don't care one way or the other if anyone wants to do this. I just thought I'd make the offer since my car will be in the shop anyway.

Oct 30, 2002 - 01:28 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Riverside, California
Message: If there is anyone who lives near here who has the time to test drive and look at a car which is for sale there please let me know. Once I have heard from the owner that you checked out the car I'll send you a $50-bill in the mail for your trouble.

Oct 30, 2002 - 05:30 - From: Owen
Title: stoneleigh lotus show
Message: I've seen an advert for a Lotus parts fair at Stoneleigh? Anybody know where this is, and if it's going to be worth a visit for Elan bits? Also, does anyone have any ideas where the puddles behind my seats are coming from?

Oct 30, 2002 - 06:07 - From: Andrew
Title: Puddles
Message: Owen, maybe this will help? http://www.spydercars.co.uk/event_calender.htm  The puddles behind the seats could be from the water going under the door seal (where it meets the sill) and then running over the small lip on the sill and into the car. Is your car parked facing up-hill when this happens?

Oct 30, 2002 - 06:11 - From: Owen
Title: stoneliegh and leaks
Message: Cheers Andrew, looks like that Stoneleigh will be mainly older Loti. Still, Coventry's not far from me, so i might take a look anyway. As for the puddles, the door seals have had v's cut in them to allow the water out, so it's not that, but i haveb't got a clue where else is could be coming from.

Oct 30, 2002 - 08:37 - From: Dave M.
Title: spring, water temp, and pads
Message: Doug, the spring itself is actually lightly sprayed red or blue. I had no dot on my adjustment screw, although it could be an indication of what's in there. You may want to shoot an e-mail to HKS to see if that's what they used to do (you've had yours for quite a while, right?). Jose, I never had an issue with temp on the track...I always got the usual 1/4 mark reading just as if I were on the street, even after a hard 20-30 minute session. I may have to try those pads (actually I think Dave is sending me some). All the sets (Greenstuff, Redstuff, Hawk Blue, Mintex) I've used have thrown horrible dust. I don't know if there should be that much difference between my cross-drilled and your slotted rotors?

Oct 30, 2002 - 09:08 - From: Greg Choules
Title: S2 throttle position sensor
Message: recently my S2 started leaping around like a mad thing, but only under certain conditions. I took it into my local service agent this morning and got one of their guys (Dave @ Haydon) to come out with me, armed with a Tech1 tool. It turned out that the throttle position sensor is breaking down at a certain point - about mid-throttle opening. When it does this the car lurches wildly. Naturally they didn't have a replacement in stock, but reckoned that one from Lotus would cost about £180. Does anyone know if this sensor is available from elsewhere cheaper? UK please. Perhaps it's a stock GM/Isuzu part? when I get a new one I'll take the old one to bits and see what the problem is, if anyone's interested. thanks, Greg

Oct 30, 2002 - 10:56 - From: Owen
Title: throttle position sensor
Message: Greg, douglas valley breakers (www.douglashave a couple of S2's in, maybe worth a phone call to see how much they want for a TPS. Not ideal, i know, but neither is £180!

Oct 30, 2002 - 10:57 - From: owen
Title: tps
Message: sorry, forgot to finish typing the URL, it's www.douglasvalley.co.uk 

Oct 30, 2002 - 12:14 - From: Doug
Title: TPS
Message: Greg, as far as I know the TPS should be the standard Isuzu part. Dave M. can you check your Isuzu manual? If so it should be available in the US for about $20-30 !! I'll check into the price if we can confirm it is Isuzu. . .

Oct 30, 2002 - 12:26 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Doug, ceramic coating
Message: You can still get your exhaust ceramic coated. I plan to remove mine and send it off to Jet Hot.

Oct 30, 2002 - 13:50 - From: Ade
Title: Stoneliegh
Message: Owen, I went to Stoneliegh last year and found it to be quite a good show although not as big as Donnington. It catered for all type of lotus just like Donnington.

Oct 30, 2002 - 15:02 - From: Doug
Title: exhaust
Message: Ah, yes, another $$ project, Matthew! Well I guess I could when I disassemble the suspensions and do the brakes and struts! I just need to find a box that is 10 feet long and 1 foot wide! All parts were welded except at the rear crossmember, just in case I ever wanted to remove it . . . Does JetHot "dip" them or is it done like powder-coat? If they dip it that would not be good for the cat.

Oct 30, 2002 - 16:30 - From: Doug
Title: TPS
Message: Greg, retail price for the Isuzu TPS is $62US. Any US Isuzu dealer has access to the parts which are usually available in a few days from their central wherehouse.

Oct 30, 2002 - 17:33 - From: Greg Carpenter
Title: Elan Heater Valve
Message: I have confirmed that the vacuum-operated Elan Heater Valve is identical to that used in Volvo's 740/940 models. This may or may not make it cheaper, but will certainly help with availability.

Oct 30, 2002 - 19:35 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Doug, exhaust info
Message: If you are truly serious about wanting your exhaust ceramic coated the first thing I would do is have at least 2 exhaust flanges (very little money) welded into the system so you can take it apart in shorter, boxable pieces. Jet Hot does not dip their parts, they first sand-blast them to remove any crud then cross-sand-blast them to create an adhereable surface, then they "paint" them with 2 coats of their ceramic compound. They likewise "flow-coat" the interior surface with their ceramic concoction, but you can request that they not do that. Then they bake the whole thing for like 6 hours at 650 degrees F. Anyway, hope that clears up any questions you had.

Oct 30, 2002 - 19:43 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Dave
Message: Left a message with "my" shop but maybe it was too late tonight. I will try them again at 10am when they open to explain what you want to do. Once I have talked to them I will E-mail to let you know what he said. The "main-man", but also the hardest one to get ahold of on the phone is Dwight. Their phone number is (904)777-3250, but let me grease the way first before you call them so they know you are not just another yahoo wasting their time. Getting Dwight on the phone can be difficult, and he is the only one who remembers the underside of my car well enough to give you a quote.

Oct 31, 2002 - 00:41 - From: Mark
Title: Yellow Elan
Message: Doc, there is a yellow elan for sale on hemmings.com. i think its down in florida

Oct 31, 2002 - 00:59 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Ground Problem
Message: Hi guys, I recently experience this annoying noise of a relay trying (several contigous times) to close when the valve gives the signal to close the relays in order to turn the blowers on. It must be a ground problem near(?) the relay that is located in the dashboard (upper place). I opened the cover, unscrewed the relay board and checked the wiring, but I no difference. Any ideas? Thanks!

Oct 31, 2002 - 09:22 - From: Dave M.
Title: TPS & WOT
Message: Oh, the acronyms! I'll check on the Isuzu piece in the manual but I'll bet it's identical. Maybe Tony V wants to part-out his extra engine? Also, for those who haven't been to the ElanScan board yet, the WOT Electronics cable now works with the program. WOT sources power for the cable from the laptop, not the ALDL. Thanks to Alan for working with Steve at WOT to get thing worked out. All you need to do is download the appropriate program version, order the "fully assembled cable" ($65 at http://www.wotelectronics.com/cables.html ) and you're good to go. E-mail me with any questions.

Oct 31, 2002 - 12:29 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Dave, exhaust
Message: I talked to Dwight (904)777-3250. He can do what you want. If you want to give him a call ask for either him or Vincent. The price might be less than we thought! Any questions, E-mail me back, Matt.

Oct 31, 2002 - 17:39 - From: Derrick
Title: Alarm and Stereo question
Message: I am in the process on upgrading my audio system and adding an alarm to my Elan. Ive been to a few shops who when they see the car state that installation of the alarm and car amps and wiring is more difficult therefore are charging a premium. For example, a Viper Alarm that they advertise as "$249,installed", turns into $500. A $100 amp and crossover install, becomes $350. Is there any secret magic to installation of alarms and audio in the Elan?

Oct 31, 2002 - 19:20 - From: Doug
Title: Installs
Message: Derrick, I suggest you not go there and find a place that will "do the job right." Yes, this might entail more money, but you don't want someone to rip the car apart and ruin pieces that are hard to fix. The bottom line is that it is as easy as any other car, but the car is less forgiving to prybars and monkeys! I searched for 6 months to find the right place. Don't go to some drive-thru place where all they care about is how fast they can do it. . .

Oct 31, 2002 - 23:48 - From: Tony V
Title: Parting out spare engine
Message: Yes..I will be happy to part out my spare engine..as soon as the "new" engine is running in the car. Should be next week some time.