Nov 1, 2001 - 04:38 - From: Jeremy
Title: brakes Joshua
Message: Must agree with Doug. My car had also stood for a few years before I got my hands on it. I tried new OE pads on the front, stripped and cleaned calipers and a bleed and there was some improvement. Tomorrow however new ATE power discs and greenstuff pads go on the front. Would have changed the rear discs too, which are a bit pitted until I found out they are 100ukp EACH! Cant wait to see if my car will stop like it goes. ps. my drivers side window is struggling to get up that last inch. Anyone know what's going on?

Nov 1, 2001 - 07:32 - From: Philbo
Title: Brakes
Message: Joshua, You will certainly need to bleed the brakes. With the Elan, you seem to need to bleed them a number of times before completely flushing the system. Mine were bled twice initially, then the car sat for a week and was bled again, only then did "proper" pedal feel return. As for upgrades, better pads and discs are almost non-optional items. My experience hasn't been quite the same as Doug's, if with new discs and pads my car went from a 2 to a 8, then with 4-pot racing calipers and steel brake lines it went to 20! Seriously the difference was that great - even with new pads and discs you don't get to 8/10ths of the possible braking performance.

Nov 1, 2001 - 14:05 - From: Dave M.
Title: possible yummy item
Message: The link to Kip Anderson's site ( http://www.kipanderson.net/rs/rs.htm, if you missed it earlier) has me thinking and searching. This is a dangerous thing. I've noticed a number of Isuzu folk are using the Haltech E6GM ECU. It basically gives you a programmable ECU. Has anyone been down this avenue yet? See http://force-efi.com/e6gm.htm  Don't know if this works with the Elan, but it could be a possible answer for you Matt as well as anyone like me looking to boost a bit more without fuel problems.

Nov 1, 2001 - 15:03 - From: Scott
Title: Headlights
Message: Kev: Is it both headlights or just one? If its both, then its probably the headlight control module. See Doug's section on common repairs. If its just one, you can test the motor by providing it 12 volts from another source. If it goes up with one wire and down with the other, again, its probably the control module. Also, you can manually put the light pods up by turning the black knob on each motor. No reason to be stuck in a Mini for goodness sakes!!! -Scott

Nov 1, 2001 - 17:40 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Haltech computer
Message: Dave, that looks promising. I wonder if the pin locations on the ECU connectors correspond with our stock ECU. In other words, will the Haltech computer plug right into our wiring harness, and do all the input/output pin locations accept & receive the same info (MAP input, injector timing output, etc.) as our stock computer. That is no doubt too much to ask for, but, just maybe? I do know our car uses a totally different ECU than the Isuzu though. After I get my "MAP output limiter" installed the guy who did the Nitrous install is going to put the car on the dyno to check the fuel/air ratio & other things. Remember though, that I automatically get more fuel injected thru totally separate ports, and it gets squirted in along with the nitrous, independent of our stock fuel injectors. I did pick my car up today, it's a frikin' JATO rocket of a ride, even though I can't use the nitrous very long right now.

Nov 1, 2001 - 19:39 - From: randy maurer
Title: seat heaters
Message: I have tried following the links on the seat heater write-up, and they are all dead ends, including the author, Jamie. Does anyone have any idea where I can find either Jamie or the seat heaters? thanks, randy

Nov 1, 2001 - 20:07 - From: Jamie
Title: Re: Seat Heater
Message: Randy, actually it was Doug that did the write-up. Although I too have installed the seat heaters. I just tried the link and it worked fine for me. Hum...Maybe there was something wrong with AOLs service earlier today??? Anyways, here a direct link if your interest in purchasing some seat heater, or what I call butt warmer. LOL! http://www.katzkin.com/SITE/HTML/index.html  If you have any Q's drop me an email.

Nov 1, 2001 - 21:12 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: poor brakes (thanks!)
Message: Well, what a great group! Thanks for all of the replies on my poor brakes. I will probably wind up upgrading the front pads & perhaps rotors. Maybe I will take it to a shop in town here to have them "power bled" as well. Sure hope that is the problem, right now they are so bad the car is unsafe to drive! Thanks again, Joshua Lawrence

Nov 1, 2001 - 22:05 - From: Doug
Title: nitrous
Message: Matthew, Yes get us some numbers--I'm sure I am not the only one drooling. How is the tranny handling the traction??

Nov 2, 2001 - 08:44 - From: Gian
Title: CAS problem
Message: I unscrewed the CAS cover to have a look at the CAS. It seems the notched wheel scratches against the magnetic pick up, because I noticed stripes of black colour on the face of the wheel itself. As far as I know the wheel should keep a constant distance from the pick up in order to work properly. Any comments/help appreciated.

Nov 2, 2001 - 10:07 - From: Dave M.
Title: more goodies from the Isuzu world
Message: A few things I found on an Isuzu board. 1) something practical: http://home.kscable.com/ssutton/miata/engine/toluene.html  This could help Doug and others out in CA with the octane issues. I'm picking up some on my way home and will let you know. 2) something not so practical: http://www.acpt.com/driveshaft/driveshafts.html  Expensive way to increase FWHP. On the fuel delivery side, I received feedback from a knowledgeable source who said the stock fuel pressure regulator runs between 45-65 psi and should provide enough pressure for up to 20 psi of boost. The fuel pump is OK, too. The injectors, however need upgrading. Our injectors (I believe) are 323cc. One of the Isuzu guys runs 450s on the stock computer supposedly w/o any problems. Above that and you need different computer control. Matt, what kind of pressures are you seeing out of the regulator you are using? I imagine that was necessary for the additional injectors? I'm with Doug...I'm drooling to hear the results of the dyno run. As for the Haltech, I'm researching the applicability to our cars. Even if the pins don't match, I would think using the wiring schemes of each we could make a plug-in adapter that routes the inputs/outputs to the correct locations. It would take some time, but hmmmm...when the snow starts flying here...

Nov 2, 2001 - 11:41 - From: Ed
Title: another Octane link...
Message: http://members.aol.com/bluetalon2/octane.html  I found it quite some time ago when I was looking for information on octane boosters. I'm not sure how old the information is, but this one suggests mixing the toluene with a little mineral oil and transmission fluid (as cleaning and lubricating agents respectively). Though given the additives in modern gas, I don't know that it would be needed anyway. I haven't tried the toluene thing myself yet, but I must admit that it has had me curious.

Nov 2, 2001 - 13:28 - From: Simon Mooney
Title: LOOKING for an ELAN
Message: Hi everyone, I hope someone might be able to help me. I'm living in Northern Ireland and I'm looking to buy an Elan. Problem is there isn't any available here...even to test drive or compare. Can anyone advise me where the nearest dealer/specialist would be.... Is it Scotland????? I would also be interested to know about any clubs etc.. If anyone is reading this from Ireland please contact me.

Nov 2, 2001 - 15:59 - From: Richard A Clifton
Title: NI Elans
Message: Simon, Agnew Lotus, 19 Boucher Crescent, Belfast, BT12 6HU (028 90686006) is the only official NI dealer. I would suggest though that you get a copy of Club Lotus News or Autotrader or Top Marques, 'phone up a few in the rest of the UK and spend a weekend over here viewing and driving them. Otherwise you could spend a lifetime waiting for the right car to become available somewhere near you. I would guess that people who contribute to this board from all over the UK might be prepared to have a preliminary look at any you might be interested in, to save you a wasted journey. Thinking about it, you couldn't do much worse than just popping over to Paul Matty Sportscars for the day might be enough. He always has good cars in stock and at fair prices.

Nov 3, 2001 - 07:04 - From: Robert
Title: loose rear hub bearing
Message: Has anyone else had a rear hub suddenly go VERY loose without warning? Mine were fine when I bought the car (1600 miles ago) but last night one suddenly went very noisy (not the high whining noise I've had from dodgy bearings before, more the sort of bang-bang-screech-bang-screech sound that usually spells imminent disaster.) Anyway, upon jacking the car, the left-hand rear wheel had about 3/16" of wobble in the hub. Removing the hub this morning, the split pin was still in place, but the hub nut was very slack. When I took the brake disc/hub off the car, both bearings came off with it in fact the outboard bearing literally fell out of the hub. Both bearing races appear to be undamaged, but I thought they should be "tight" on the stub axle!? I've reassembled the hub with the old bearings and it all seems OK (I.E. no noises and the wheel didn't fall off during a 6 mile test run.) It just seems strange to me that it should go from feeling fine to suddenly having a horrific amount of play, without any warning. Comments, anyone?? By the way, thank-you to this site for the excellent instructions on how to adjust the bearing.

Nov 3, 2001 - 10:15 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Dave's Links
Message: I cautioned Dave about some questions he raised to me directly, that his new found links are a very good source of very inaccurate information. He has stumbled upon a group of mostly very amateur but vocal braggards with one or two people who do know what they are doing but stay silent because they do not want the rest of the group to learn how to build their cars as fast as the one or two. Imagineering is the mainstay of this group, hence the drive shaft link, since none of the braggards are breaking drive shafts, that is something for them to dream about._ _ _Octane is gasoline's resistance to igniting, not a measurement of how much power is in the gasoline. Increased octane is useful only for reducing and preventing detonation. If a car is not experiencing detonation, raising the octane is a waste of money. Mixing solvents in the gas tank of a car is a good way to peel the lining off the inside of the gas tank, which will destroy the fuel pump when those little pieces of coating lodge in the fuel pump mechanism. Funny thing, when I stopped trying to mix jet fuel in my gas tank, I stopped having to have the inside of my gas tank stripped recoated every year._ _ _450 cc/min injectors will cause sputtering, flooding, and stalling in a 1.6 liter Isuzu turbocharged engine due to their inability to close small enough to allow the engine to idle and the fact that the computer goes to its preprogrammed map at WOT at which time it will be telling the injectors to spray based on the calculations for the 322 cc/min stock injectors. It will flood and stall. Larger injectors up to about 370 cc/min can be used with the stock computer _if and only if_ the engine has been built up to the point that it can use the fuel and will not flood. Translation: a couple thousand dollars in porting and running boost well above the fuel cut point._ _ _The fuel pressure regulator has nothing to do with the ability of the fuel system to keep pressure at greater fuel demand, it will hold the same pressure curve regardless of fuel demand. The fuel pump's ability to pump fuel from the tank to the fuel rail is what determines if the fuel system can keep up with greater demand. The fuel pressure regulator would need to match the idle pressure setting and rising curve needed by the engine, which is why an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is always recommended for fine tuning fuel delivery._ _ _There is a very good link on the ISUPAGE showing the injector sizing fuel system constraints of the various Isuzu engines._ _ _Don't expect any dyno testing from the braggards, There was a long standing debate on the correct pipe diameter for exhaust systems, type of muffler, and header design which this group would never put their own money toward dyno testing for an answer. My company published our testing and many of the braggards disagreed, claiming they would do their own dyno testing. Over the past six months, they have not, and I do not expect them to, because they do not have the funding or resolve to back up their claims._ _ _Please be careful with some of the information out there, in only those few examples, a person could end up spending hundreds and thousands of dollars in replacing fuel pumps, replacing or relining gas tanks, and buying fuel injectors that can't be used on the car._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 3, 2001 - 11:26 - From: Robert
Title: rear hub bearing
Message: B*llocks - it's gone again. The bearing's obviously shot and now everywhere's closed and I can't get new ones till Monday!!

Nov 3, 2001 - 12:15 - From: Steve
Title: Lotus Life Article
Message: Anyone seen the new issue of lotus life yet ? they actually have given some page room to the Elan, a whole article and a nic pic, it's on the cover too !!!! I would be more than happy to send you a copy Doug but I don't know about copyrights and all that depressing boring stuff......let me know.

Nov 3, 2001 - 12:24 - From: Doug
Title: Elan Drive
Message: Okay Orange County and L.A. Elan owners, I have been granted "block time" by the boss for next Saturday, Nov 10th!! I know I will be hanging out with my Elan. How about we see who wants to meet up and perhaps do some Elan tech and discussion and/or lunch and a drive??!! Contact me via email and I will get a plan together. . .

Nov 4, 2001 - 01:27 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: Front Caliper Rebuild Kits?
Message: Hi everyone, I was just wondering where to get rebuild kits for the front calipers in the US? I checked the archived messages and found few posts by owners who have done this, however I would imagine the kits are probably more readily available in the UK. Is this something I should try to get through a Lotus dealership? Thanks, Joshua Lawrence

Nov 4, 2001 - 04:58 - From: Guillermo
Title: Clutch
Message: Hi all, just one question on the clutch. My car is lifted and the wheels are off - I recently replaced my discs and pads - , and today I started the motor - gear disengaged -to let it run 5 minutes ... then the front hubs begin to rotate !! Is this normal ? Or does that mean the clutch has to be adjusted ? Thanks in advance

Nov 4, 2001 - 13:48 - From: Bill Luton
Title: clutch
Message: adjust the clutch cable. The clutch cable moves the point in the pedal throw that the clutch catches. It must be adjusted after the clutch is replaced. In all likelihood, it would have been adjusted out to allow more life out of a worn clutch, and must be adjusted in to properly work with a unworn clutch disk that is full thickness._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 4, 2001 - 18:03 - From: Guillermo
Title: clutch
Message: thanks Bill .. I will try to do that !

Nov 4, 2001 - 20:38 - From: Winston Cuenant
Title: Oil Everywhere!
Message: I just got back from a 300 mile trip with my Elan and I discovered oil has speewed all over the air box, inside the airbox, and all over the electronics . I am thinking it may be the oil filter. Also, when I open the airbox it seems that there is oil in the hose to the turbo! I can't figure it out and the car is going to lotus tomorrow, but if anyone could help me sleep better tonight with some helpful information to what this catastrophe could be it would be greatly appreciated.

Nov 4, 2001 - 20:44 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Dave, nitrous info...
Message: He used a variable pressure fuel regulator, Holley part number 12-501, which can be set from 4.5 to 9 PSI. I can't say where he ended up setting it, but the reason he used it is that he needed to REDUCE the fuel pressure of our injected car down to a carbureted level, as that was in tune with the nitrous system he selected to install on my car. He went for a very precisely metered amount of only 12HP per nozzle. Most applications spray 50HP per nozzle, or more. By the way, looking at the intake plenum from left to right, the ports you want to tap are 1, 4, 5 & 8. The others have the butterfly valve in the lower part of the intake tract and are closed below 4800rpm. The current setting I have activates the nitrous between 3200 & 6600 RPM, although I can change this very simply by plugging in a different 'pin'. I received word back that the fuel cut defenser will be shipped to me on Wednesday. Oh, you will also need an MSD tach adapter, part number 8920, if you use an RPM window switch. As for the tranny Doug, it is holding up just fine, although I haven't driven the car much as it has been rather damp in Florida the last few days.

Nov 4, 2001 - 21:49 - From: Scott P.
Title: instrument/parking lights out
Message: Driving in the dark tonight I noticed my instrument lights were not coming on. They have blinked a couple times before, but fiddling with the dimmer has always brought them back on. Not this time, then a lady shouted to me that my tail lights were off! Into a parking lot, I turned the light switch a couple times and everything came back on. Back at home in the driveway neither parking nor instrument lights work. I've jiggled all the connections behind the switches, and the fuses, but the lights stubbornly stay silent. I've checked the archives and didn't see a similar situation. Any help would be greatly appreciated...it's starting to be dark all the time! Scott

Nov 4, 2001 - 23:08 - From: Scott
Title: Clutch follow-up question
Message: Bill: I too have had the car up on blocks, wheels off and the car running and noticed the hub spinning. Just a touch of my sole of my shoe to the hub would stop the rotation. My question to you is this...if the tranny is in neutral, how does the clutch adjustment affect the free spinning hub? I can understand if your suggestion to adjust the cable was in response to having the clutch fully depressed and still seeing the wheel spinning...but I think the question referred to being in neutral. Just wondering. Thanks. -Scott

Nov 5, 2001 - 00:02 - From: Doug
Title: oil spill, lights out
Message: Winston, there are two 'breather' lines that go back from the engine into the intake pipe line. My money says one of these has spilled the oil into there. You should refer to the manual for the exact nature of the lines. One may be related to the PCV valve which may just be clogged (replace for about $10) and thus the cause, and the other I think is from the EGR recirculation system, which can get full of oil and spill this way. You can open up the black square metal cover over the CAS area which is the EGR separator and see if it is filled with oil. This could be just a clog too. Is your engine oil at the right level? Scott, suspect your dimmer switch as mine has given me gremlins like this before. I have not replaced it yet but it is likely not too much and is probably even a GM part. Could be a problem with the main light switch but sounds like the dimmer from your past problems. You could bypass it (short it with a wire clip) as a last resort and see if all is well--this would confirm the dimmer as the cause. Now can't the rotation force of the tranny fluid at the clutch cause enough juice to turn the hub--just like the way an automatic tranny works?

Nov 5, 2001 - 00:22 - From: Bill Luton
Title: clutch
Message: I took his question to mean that the clutch would not disengage with the pedal to the floor. It is annoying when you try to adjust the cable to catch just above the floorboard and accidentally get it to catch just below the floorboard. In neutral, the wheels can not turn unless something is very wrong or they are turning just from the vibration of the engine idling._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 5, 2001 - 03:52 - From: jeremy
Title: brakes
Message: Changed my original discs for ATE power discs and the pads to greenstuff. If previous braking was 2 out of 10, I reckon we are straight up to about 5 before they even bed in properly. Pedal feel is still a bit soft but at least now I do not have to push so hard I am afraid of bending the pedal. The grooved discs and green pads look great too! Sorry Doug but the part number sticker had been ripped off the box. Simon,.. there certainly used to be a lotus dealer in Northern Ireland cos my Elan was bought new there. I'll check my documents for names.

Nov 5, 2001 - 04:52 - From: Philbo
Title: Elan Caliper Kits
Message: Joshua, see my page www.informatica.zen.co.uk/elan for details on a full front brake upgrade that should be available as a kit for shipping to the U.S. - I directly asked this question of the proprietor and he said it should be no problem. The only minor (!) issue might be that the kit was designed to be the biggest that could fit inside the stock 15" OZ alloys, you could go bigger inside US 16" wheels but they're good (with a capital F) already. EBC grooved discs 285mm, two pairs of 4-pot racing calipers and EBC pads should cost about $650, other pads and steel brake lines also available. If you have any q's then email me.

Nov 5, 2001 - 05:49 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Clutch
Message: Guillermo, With the car up on jacks and in neutral the wheels will spin because there is a certain amount of air drag on the transmission plate from the revolving clutch plate (or the other way around) it is quite normal - do not worry about it I have a seen it on a number of cars.

Nov 5, 2001 - 07:22 - From: Guillermo
Title: clutch
Message: Thanks Richard ... what a relieve .. already thought of some more months discovering other faults on the car ... and thinking of clutch changing I start sweating ... thanks to all

Nov 5, 2001 - 10:59 - From: Winston
Title: Oil Spill
Message: Doug it seems that the egr pipe is fine. It was dark last night when I was looking at the engine so it was hard to get a good look but this morning it seems that the pipe connected to the turbo hose by the airbox filter that branches off to two different areas in the engine bay has come off. What is this hose and would this be the culprit?

Nov 5, 2001 - 17:07 - From: Dave M.
Title: spinning my wheels
Message: Glad to hear I wasn't the only one with spinning wheels/hubs when in neutral. Forgot to mention that earlier when I noticed it. Ah, due diligence. My quest for more power is giving me quite the education on our little 4XE1. I bet you know about that, eh Matt? Charlie, was it you that did a different boost gauge? Whoever has, what are you using? I need something to register over 1 bar. (See where this is heading?)

Nov 5, 2001 - 20:55 - From: charlie
Title: boost gauge
Message: yes i have an autometer phantom boost gauge which is PSI based and not electronic, takes about 20mins to fit.

Nov 6, 2001 - 08:32 - From: Steve P
Title: Spinning Wheels
Message: Just to confirm my wheels have always spun with the car jacked up and the gearbox in neutral, in fact I think most of the cars I've owned have done this, so its never worried me. Guess there is some oil drag in the gearbox as the gears spin around, the clutch plate should be in contact with the flywheel even when in neutral. Start to worry if you can't stop the spinning wheel easily ;-)

Nov 6, 2001 - 15:48 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Nitrous pictures
Message: Dave, Doug... sent them to you. If anyone else wants to see just let me know.

Nov 6, 2001 - 15:50 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: MAP control clamp
Message: ...was shipped to me this morning. I should have it by this weekend.

Nov 7, 2001 - 06:19 - From: jeremy
Title: tyre pressure
Message: Hi chaps,... anyone know what kind of tyre pressures I should be running. My wheels are 17'' and the tryes are mega skinny,... 45s I think. I was running at 32 front and 30 back but when I checked the pressures after picking the car up from the garage after new brakes discs/pads, their mechanic, who is normally very good, had pumped them up to 37 and 35. Any ideas?

Nov 7, 2001 - 09:50 - From: Kyle "BlackHole"
Title: Re: Fuel shutoff (overboost)
Message: Matthew, >I am finally getting somewhere obtaining a fuel-cut->defenser. I found a company (one-man-show, but hey, it's a >company) that custom makes what he calls a "MAP control >clamp". It does not allow more than a certain voltage >output from the MAP to reach the ECU. Or you can do the same for <$10 with a Zener diode wiring into the MAP circuit. See http://www.kipanderson.net/rs/fce.htm. It should work fine for the M100s since the Impulse RS AWD uses the same engine+management system. > experiencing fuel-shut-off due to overboost. Just so you have enough fuel to deal with the boost level over factory limits, since the ECM won't add any more fuel after it reaches the MAP limit. Running lean would be a bad thing... :-( Kyle "BlackHole"

Nov 7, 2001 - 11:22 - From: Doug
Title: pressures
Message: Jeremy, I use pressures similar to yours. I have found it is detrimental to run over 30lb in the rears--this causes loss of contact patch and traction, and in a track situation this can cause the back end to get loose. I have found that in normal driving I keep the tires around 32lb in the front for the best wear, but for hard driving they actually roll over the sidewalls from the weight bias in the front of the car, so then I put them up to max pressure! Different tires will have different max pressures. Check the wear/scuffing of the tread to determine what is best for your situation.

Nov 7, 2001 - 11:55 - From: jeremy
Title: tyre pressure
Message: Thanks Doug,... that's kinda what I thought. My concern was that skinny tyres might need a greater pressure but I felt the tyres let go a little whilst braking over bumps this morning so I think I'll reduce to 32/33 front and 30 or so at the back.

Nov 7, 2001 - 14:30 - From: Steve P
Title: Tyres
Message: I know we've been through this one before!! Looks as if a lot of drivers have fitted wider tyres than the 205's specified. Has anyone tried narrower tyres? Interested because our recent day at Lotus revealed that the engineers really wanted to fit 185/195s to the Elan but as per usual the marketing boys wanted a wider tyre....just a thought.......!

Nov 7, 2001 - 15:43 - From: Doug
Title: tires
Message: No thanks, Steve, but you can give it a try. Yes, I do know the tradeoffs, but I just can not imagine how narrower tires could perform better, other than straight line gas mileage.

Nov 7, 2001 - 16:05 - From: Ed
Title: skinny t[i|y]res
Message: 185's with all this extra boost... I don't think I would give it much consideration at the moment. But on the other hand, if I had the Quaife differential installed... it would be interesting to see how well it did handle with skinnier tyres and a Quaife.

Nov 8, 2001 - 09:53 - From: Dave M.
Title: tire stuff
Message: It seems a few years back a read an article on exactly this topic. The narrower tires were lighter, had less rolling resistance, and based on the weight of the car, could work in a correct heat range. In certain instances, overall performance was improved with narrower tires/wheels. Granted with tire tech what it is today heat ranges may not be as important (except for maybe race rubber), but the Lotus folks would certainly know the rest. Look at the Elise. I remember Jackson Racing telling me not to go wider than 185s on my CRX years ago for the above reasons. Ed does have a point, though with the extra boost - Lotus was obviously looking at narrower tires on a stock car. Wouldn't it have been great if Lotus did 185s stock and with the money they saved, added the LSD? Mmmmmm...

Nov 8, 2001 - 09:58 - From: Dave M.
Title: I've found my new wheels
Message: http://64.163.148.7/cgi-bin/new/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=000252 

Nov 8, 2001 - 10:22 - From: Judy
Title: 1965 Elan Convertible for sale
Message: I have a 1965 Lotus Elan Convertible that has been sitting in a garage for 15 years. It was my dad's car and it hasn't been started since then. Any ideas how much it might be worth?

Nov 8, 2001 - 10:32 - From: Doug
Title: Dave's wheels
Message: Dave, sweet choice! Two questions: (1) will 185s fit on them? (2) what lift kit are you going to use? Remember that the increase in rotating mass will slow your car down too!

Nov 8, 2001 - 10:36 - From: Ed
Title: Roll bars and Dave's new wheels
Message: Since a few people here have mentioned roll bars... Can anyone that has one tell me how it is mounted? I would like to get one myself at some point, but I wonder about the overall strength. It would seem that it would wind up being bolted to nothing more than fiberglass. I don't really know anything about roll bar design, or just how strong the fiberglass is in the areas it would mount. But I wonder how much force it would take for the end of a roll bar to just poke through the shell. If I put one in, I want to KNOW that it is not just a heavy, expensive ornament. As for those wheels... They made me shudder. The first thing that came to mind was tuning the spokes.

Nov 8, 2001 - 16:07 - From: Bryn
Title: Classic Cars mag
Message: Lotus handling test in the Dec issue of 'Classic Cars' mag, Elan SE, Elan S3, 7, Elite, Elise & Esprit. Pretty poor editorial, certainly nothing more than a subjective view of a few guys driving all the cars on a track and guess what... they liked the Elan S3 best. They did not dis' the Elan SE, so worth a read if you come across it.

Nov 8, 2001 - 17:01 - From: Tony V
Title: Roll Bar
Message: The rollbar mounts to the center frame and to the side frame. In my opinion..it is not just for looks only. I just sold my Elan to one person, and we sold the rollbar (both new owner and me) to another. Have a look at Maggie's roll over on http://www.lotusowners.com I have a link on the home page. The window frame was supposed to be a structure that would support a rollover...I don't think it does.. I thought is was a good investment..but then I never installed it. I liked the Auto Europe Bar. but, then I never saw anyone else's...

Nov 8, 2001 - 21:51 - From: John
Title: For Sale: Black Lotus Polo Shirt
Message: bought this shirt for a friend and he sold his car. I paid $40 + shipping, selling for $35 shipped. Shirt is Large and it's black with the Lotus Emblem Logo email me @ fogleroller@email.com

Nov 8, 2001 - 23:30 - From: Tony V
Title: RollBar pics
Message: I am just waiting for permission from the person that took the roll bar photos to allow me to post them on the LOONY site. http://www.lotusowners.com/  I have everything uploaded...all I need to do is create a link from the repairs/upgrades page.. Hopefully he will get back to me tonight.

Nov 9, 2001 - 10:16 - From: Ed
Title: Rollbar
Message: I saw the pics of Maggie's car back when they were first put up. Between that, and wanting to put the car on the track once in a while, I think a rollbar is a good idea (well required for the track). I'll keep an eye out at the LOONY site for the pics. Thanks.

Nov 9, 2001 - 12:00 - From: peter bentley
Title: no speedo !!
Message: ladies and gentlemen, my speedo has suddenly stopped working, any tips, is the drive under the expansion tank ??

Nov 9, 2001 - 12:05 - From: peter bentley
Title: tires undersize
Message: don't remember who asked, but on a recent trip to the factory, the group i was with had an interesting chat with roger becker, he explained that the car was originally set up for a 185 tyre, it was just the marketing people who insisted on a wider tyre, so you should be o.k. Considering that most of your driving is normally done in a straight line, i would have thought you would have been alright, however what would an insurer say if you pranged your car ??

Nov 9, 2001 - 15:21 - From: Steve P
Title: Duff Speedo
Message: Peter, worth checking that the drive cable is correctly seated in the gearbox. I had this after I changed my gear oil and found I'd not engaged the speedo drive fully into the gearbox. Maybe yours has come loose. If you want to know where it is have a look in Doug's maintenance section.

Nov 9, 2001 - 16:42 - From: Bill Luton
Title: tires, wheels, and speedometers
Message: I will try not to get into the whole thing of larger wheels and tires weigh more and more tread on the pavement causes more friction between the tire and the ground... Something to consider, though, is that the autocross type guys who will do anything for cornering always look for a tire that is on the narrower end of the appropriate sizes to fit a given wheel, meaning they don't have a lot of rubber sticking out on each side of the rim lip. They look to actually stretch a tire onto a wheel so that there is less sidewall flex from having a tire that is too wide for a wheel. This is because if you throw something extreme like a 9 inch wide tire onto a 7 inch wide wheel, there are two inches of flexible rubber that the wheel can shift inside of before the rubber actually works into a position to solidly transfer the force to the suspension. It's sort of mushy on the handling._ _ _On the speedometer, the likely cause would be the cable housing coming unplugged on either end. Also, the cable breaking (older Isuzus do this in cold weather when moisture in the housing freezes the cable in the housing and the cable end sheers off a the transmission the first time someone tries to move the car). Very remote possibilities would be the teeth being eaten off the plastic speedo gear in the transmission or the speedometer disassembling inside its housing._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 9, 2001 - 22:27 - From: Tony V
Title: M100 Roll Bar Installation
Message: I have posted the roll bar installation into an M100 on the LOONY site. http://www.lotusowners.com/  Go to the Repairs/Upgrades Link..

Nov 10, 2001 - 09:06 - From: James
Title: interior light stays on.
Message: Does any one out there know what controls the interior light. The thing refuses to go out, thus draining my battery. I have attempted to pull the interior light dimming relay but this does nothing. Any ideas please!

Nov 10, 2001 - 13:21 - From: Doug
Title: interior lights
Message: James, there is a switch on the bottom edge of the rear view mirror for each light. This will turn the lights either off completely or on with the door timer switch. The main headlight switch will pull OUTWARD to turn the interior lights on full time! If it is pushed in then it will work with the door switch on timer like a normal car. The dimmer is a crappy rheostat that just dims the dash lights on a separate circuit. If there is a problem in one of your door microswitches then the car could think the door is not shut and keep the lights on--but you can always turn the lights off from under the mirror--however you can diagnose a door switch problem as the door locks will not go into the down position; they will keep popping up if the car thinks the door is not closed.

Nov 10, 2001 - 15:07 - From: steve
Title: magnecor kv 85 plug leads
Message: does anyone have any experience of fitting/using these leads. Do they make any difference / performance/smoothness etc ? Do you have to perform any other mod's in order to use them ?

Nov 10, 2001 - 22:50 - From: Bill Luton
Title: ignition wires
Message: You guys are getting away from the leaky convertible tops fixes and other topics a bit and hitting on some topics I can lend a few words on._ _I will try to make the ignition wire speech as short as possible: There are two groups, the people who say you can get more power out of specific wires, typically low resistance, and this group is sort of headed by Nology, and then there are the people who say that there is no power to gain here and that the wire must only conduct the electricity from one end to the other, and Magnecor is sort of the head of this group. Nology is going to stand there and say that their wire is going to increase horsepower through low resistance and their capacitive affect from the ground strap, and that Magnecor wires are not going to show any horsepower gain. Magnecor is going to stand there and tell you that no one's wires is going to show any horsepower gain, and specifically that Nology wires cause RF interference that messes up the ECU and causes static on your radio, that any capacitive effect of Nology wires is very short lived and fades almost immediately, and that their own Magnecor wires are the highest quality OEM replacement wires out there, meaning they perform like OEM wires and last many times longer than OEM wires. And about all I could add is that that nice grounding strap on the Nology wires has been known to short and start engine fires, or at least that is what people have said. Also, if you look on the lists for both companies of racers using their products, the lists are equally long and the names are equally recognizable, so what it all boils down to would be that there probably is no measurable performance difference, and Magnecor's product is more expensive than the wires on the shelf at the local auto parts store because the Magnecor wires are going to last longer._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 10, 2001 - 22:50 - From: Doug
Title: spark wires
Message: Steve, I have those leads and they are nice. They fit very well and no mods are needed. You have to loosen and move aside (but not disconnect) the coolant reservoir tank to reach the coil end. Just replace them one at a time and you cannot get them mixed up--they are all a bit different length anyway. They fit tightly the stock wire holders too. Considering most all of our Elans have fired the plugs over 1 Billion times, you can imagine the aging process. Besides it is the spark that runs the engine. Might as well replace the plugs while you are there too. Worth the investment!

Nov 12, 2001 - 03:07 - From: Steve P
Title: Verdict -- It's 105's!
Message: Car was not accelerating or handling too well yesterday, so pulled off at a petrol station to discover a flat rear tyre. Lesson 1_ The wonders of modern tyre inflation machines in the UK, if the tyre is flat (little or no pressure) the machine won't pump it up! Great! Fortunately the spare had 60 psi (only because I'd pumped it up to go to Hethel a few weeks ago!). On goes the 105/70 R14, have to say it looks errr rather silly on the car, but in the interest of getting home it will suffice - Off we go and wow what a difference. Lesson_2 Acceleration is transformed, well up to 50 mph anyway, road noise is a lot less and cornering is sensational below 30mph. What further proof do I need? A 105/70 R14 is better than a Flat 205/50 R15.....Nail will be extracted from 205 today ;-)

Nov 12, 2001 - 09:15 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Nitrous performance report
Message: Finally obtained my fuel-cut-defenser, which works great. It was obtained from pking@mindstreamcomputing.com, in case anyone else needs this piece of equipment. I found any electronic part known to man at http://www.digikey.com/ , however, they had 40-some-odd DIFFERENT 4.3 volt zener diodes of different mAh, as well as way too many potentiometers within the spec, etc. It was enough to let me know I DIDN'T really know what I was doing! The unit I have now requires no adjusting, it was preset for the Elan's normal ECU cutout, not to exceed it. To not splice into the existing wiring I obtained 2 electrical connectors from Pep Boys, one a GM MAP connector (used 1982-1996, so you should have no problem finding one) and also its female equivalent. Look carefully at the small slits in the sides of your existing MAP connector. You will have to duplicate those slits with a razor-blade in your purchased unit (it is a safety to make sure you do not install the connection backwards - but I guess it differed from one GM application to the next. Now, on to the performance. WOW! This thing just flat takes off, even in 4th gear on a rural road or 5th on the interstate. It now seems like downshifting is an unnecessary procedure. The way the boost gauge immediately climbs & pegs on 1.2 bar (I didn't even know it would go that high) is scary at first, heck it's still scary. Who knows how much boost this thing is really making? But the power is all very tractable and useable, as the nitrous does not kick in below 3200rpm and by then the tires are firmly planted. I will call today to schedule a dyno run, and keep you updated on the result.

Nov 12, 2001 - 14:55 - From: Simon Humphrey
Title: Lotus Elan S2 Alloys for sale
Message: Hello, I have a set of Lotus Elan S2(M100) alloys for sale. Email me for pic`s.

Nov 12, 2001 - 17:56 - From: Gary
Title: Speedometer Cable
Message: My cable broke about two or three inches in back of the speedometer. Having had this problem on other cars, I assumed that I could buy a new cable and slide out the inside drive cable from the outer sheath, pull out the broken inner cable in the car and replace it. Of course with a Lotus you can't do that...they can't be separated. You must disconnect both ends, slide in the new entire cable and reconnect them. The real fun was when I couldn't get the old cable out since Lotus had used a plastic tie to hold it in place ...buried deep in the dash. I ended up with a mechanic charging me over $100 for labor to install the cable.

Nov 12, 2001 - 18:28 - From: Shiva
Title: sudden loss of power
Message: This was the first time this happened to me. It was raining heavily and I felt a sudden loss of power and the engine started to stutter. I had to downshift and rev the car up. And when I stopped I had trouble getting off in first gear. Do you guys have any ideas what could be the reason? Spark plugs? hopefully nothing serious as I just got the car back from a major repair. Thanks Shiva

Nov 12, 2001 - 19:17 - From: Mat
Title: Boost fault/cut off fault
Message: HEELLPP!!!!" Dear All, please can you help with this small problem. I have just purchased my first Elan se, 92 J reg 73,000 miles on the clock (for a great price!) But i seem to have a problem when accelerating hard , first the fuel seems to cut, then no power, then check engine light comes on for around 10 seconds then go's out. some people have said it could be the waste gate on the turbo not opening ? and some people have said that it's not closing ? or is it electrical, ecu ? apart from this problem the Elan is GREAT and i love it to bits. can anybody help !!!!!!! One Last thing, this site is great and takes many question's and sleepless nights away. thank you from one very grateful Elan owner. BIG THANKS MAT East Sussex England PS. Know any good helpful dealers/garages in this area.

Nov 13, 2001 - 05:23 - From: jeremy
Title: Shiva
Message: I would put my money on cracked plug leads. Had a similar problem once but since I put new leads on it has not reoccurred.

Nov 13, 2001 - 05:23 - From: Per
Title: Badges
Message: I have an red Elan S2, which needs painting. Because of that, I need to take off all the badges. The painter said, they might broke, so therefore I might need to replace them. Does anyone know where I can buy those badges (Lotus-badge in front, "LOTUS" and "ELAN" badge for the rear, and the S2 sticker)

Nov 13, 2001 - 05:32 - From: jeremy
Title: Mat
Message: Could be either a sticky wastegate or you could be hitting your manifold pressure limit. This can happen if you have fitted a manual boost controller or a big sports exhaust. Others may disagree about the exhaust... Try the paperclip thing to read the code registered in your memory (cars). See this site for instructions. Doug's site will prove an invaluable source to you and many more knowledgeable folk than I post on a variety of Elan related topics.... much handy info. Good buy! Good bye!

Nov 13, 2001 - 07:20 - From: Ricahard Steele
Title: Re: Boost fault/cut off fault
Message: Matt, Do you know if the Cam Angle Sensor has been changed or repaired?

Nov 13, 2001 - 15:54 - From: MAT
Title: Re: Boost
Message: Many thanks for all your input. I am in the process of removing the turbo cover so as to get access the the waste gate rod. the plan is to move the rod with pliers too and fro in the hope this solves the problem. I will also check the fault codes, thanks for that one, as for the leads, I will check than one out. If any one else has any ideas one my boost/cut out fault please please respond......... Big thanks MAT

Nov 13, 2001 - 16:44 - From: Robert
Title: Coolant loss
Message: Spotted a puddle under my Elan tonight. No coolant in the expansion tank. Nightmare! Strange thing is - I refilled the system with plain water to get me home but now I can't find a leak anywhere! In fact I've now driven for 60 miles with no loss, so I've no idea what the problem was. I suspect the water pump, since the coolant seems to have gone from the engine rather than the radiator, but since I can't see a leak, I can't know for sure. Has anyone out there had to replace a leaky water pump? If so what symptoms did you have? Cheers Rob.

Nov 13, 2001 - 18:57 - From: Tony V
Title: coolant loss
Message: Check the small valve right behind the intake manifold. it is right above the transmission cables bracket. My car was leaking there and it acted the same way. I did a write up on it in the fix it section

Nov 14, 2001 - 05:23 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Coolant Loss
Message: Tony V - Is this valve the heater matrix control valve that seems to corrode?

Nov 14, 2001 - 07:07 - From: Phil Johnson
Title: Re: Coolant Loss
Message: It might be worth looking by the front of the radiator, as mine started to leak around there - nothing that a bottle of radweld couldn't cure (a lot cheaper than a radiator!). Tell tale sign is a small damp patch behind the rubber lip and by the large rubber grommet on the passenger (RHD car) side under the front bumper. Lost about half a reservoir of coolant with no puddles under the car before I found it.

Nov 14, 2001 - 08:06 - From: Gordon
Title: Tyres
Message: Hello people! Its tyre replacement time for me, and I was wondering if any of you had any recommendations you could offer me? I'm currently running Michelin pilots 205/50 16" ZR on S2 wheels, and I was wondering how some of the new tyres from people such as Pirelli or Yokohama measure up? Thanks in advance - Gordon.

Nov 14, 2001 - 09:15 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Tyre recommendation
Message: Gordon, I like the Falken Azenis I am now running (215/45-16). They strike a nice balance between the original Goodyear GSD's & the Kumho ECSTA's I used to run. The Kumho was too soft and wallowy for me. The Falken has no squirm or loose feel to it but still is not as harsh as the GSD's. In the end, I guess it comes down to personal preference.

Nov 14, 2001 - 09:44 - From: Dave M.
Title: tires
Message: Gordon, are the tires going to be used mainly on the street? Are you looking for maximum grip, long wear, or a blend? I've heard real good things about the Yoho Paradas (medium price but good grip). The Kumhos would be good for the street, too (and the price is good). They are just a little embarrassing on the track (and sometimes the street) as far as squealing and limits of grip. I've heard wet traction is quite good, though. For the most part, tires are like a lot of things - you get what you pay for. Good luck with the search!

Nov 14, 2001 - 11:09 - From: Ian H
Title: Boost cut off
Message: Matt, I had a similar problem when I had a Janspeed Exhaust fitted and the boost valve would go above the norm i.e. .65 bar to about .95, and then the ECU would cut the power and then the light would be on as you say for about 10 secs. I ended up with a new exhaust and no more problems.

Nov 14, 2001 - 11:14 - From: Ian H
Title: Coolant / Heater problems
Message: Robert, I have a spare heater control valve that you can have, I have just replaced mine as my heater only works intermittently, (not good considering the weather in the UK). My old valve was fine when I got it out so you can have it (for free) if you want or £26 from http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/. Does anyone else have any ideas what else would cause my heater only to work now and again. My next step is to remove the fascia to check that the control knob moves the flaps to re-direct the airflow through the heater matrix. The pipes going to and from the matrix are hot but no hot air comes out. Thanks Ian.

Nov 14, 2001 - 11:23 - From: Ian H
Title: Paintwork / New Elise
Message: I am now in desperate need of a re-spray, bubbles in the clear coat are appearing now the size of my hand and the car is starting to look shabby. Can anyone let me know where a decent re-spray shop (UK) is and the costs involved. Also I am looking to sell my Elan, but I can see myself struggling with the Paintwork in its current condition. I have been too tempted by the new Elise and hope to have one delivered in January.

Nov 14, 2001 - 14:05 - From: Robert
Title: coolant loss
Message: Or lack of coolant loss?? I've now done nearly 180 miles with NO further loss of coolant. There's no sign of a leak at the heater control valve (the metal part of the valve also looks reasonably OK) but I haven't been able to jack up the car and look under the radiator yet. I'm beginning to wonder if the puddle under the car last night was JUST a puddle. Maybe the (non-Lotus) dealer I bought the car from did a crap job of renewing the coolant when her serviced the car. I found that I had to warm the engine up till the thermostat opened, before the coolant would drain from the expansion tank to fill the system properly. I'm thinking he's just topped up the tank, with the engine cold, which would have left the system under-filled. At the moment, I'm just keeping an eye on the coolant level and if it doesn't fall, then I'll apply the first rule of engineering, "If it works, don't F*** with it!"

Nov 14, 2001 - 15:24 - From: Mike.C
Title: Front hub nuts
Message: Does anyone out there know of an alternative supply for front hub nuts. I am currently refurbishing the front suspension (beaddlast and paint) and am baulking at the prospect of paying S J Sportscars £35 inc P+P for two nuts!!

Nov 14, 2001 - 22:30 - From: Tony V
Title: Question Asked about Valve
Message: Question...Tony V - Is this valve the heater matrix control valve that seems to corrode? I don't know what it is called..but I was told it was the valve that shuts the coolant off to the heater when the A/C is turned on. On my car it just disintegrated in my hands once I grabbed it...literally just came apart..

Nov 15, 2001 - 08:04 - From: Philbo
Title: Tyres
Message: I run Bridgestone SO2 Pole Positions on the road, they have outstanding wet performance and pretty good dry. Nice progressive breakaway too. They cook on the track though - there I am weighing up Yokohama A502's and may even try some Colway cut slick retreads.

Nov 15, 2001 - 12:04 - From: Mark
Title: Lotus calendar
Message: Lotus Books is publishing a great 2002 calendar featuring the Formula 1 cars of mid 70s-mid 80s - it was a great time for Lotus - the JPS series, Fittipaldi, Ickx, Senna, etc. its available at http://www.lotusbooks.com/. For us US folks, you have to order by phone or fax tho - about 30 pounds with shipping.

Nov 15, 2001 - 13:59 - From: peter bentley
Title: badges
Message: per, try sj sportscars they normally have all you need. http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/ 

Nov 15, 2001 - 15:49 - From: Doug
Title: tires
Message: Hey guys, I know we are talking about different tires sizes as well. Certianly it depends on your expected use situations as well. I think the 225 Kumhos are very good, as does George S., but he didn't like the Yoko A520s though--then David M didn't like the Kumhos too much (were those 205s or 225s, Dave?). As there is almost never rain here I have considered a full track tire, but I don't think the insurance would like those used! The Kumho VictorRacer tire is Awesome but the sizes are few. The BFG Comp T/A-KD is supposed to be Kick arse too. There is the new Bridgestone SO-3 tire which I have heard is Great too but it is mucho $$$. You could always use 4 spare 105s--you'd get better mileage. Matthew, do the Falkens come in 225 size?

Nov 15, 2001 - 16:38 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: tires (Doug)
Message: No, they (Falken Azenis) come in 215/45-16, or 205/50-15 for those on the other side of the pond. They stick like glue and have absolutely no tread-squirm. I notice that I pick up all the little sand/dirt on the road cuz I see it on the tread and hear it flinging against the inside of the wheel-well. They are not expensive either, the 16" are just over $100 while the 15" are about $70. They are grippier than the Yoko AVS-Intermediate and have a better on-center feel. My friend with an S2000 says they grip much better than the Yoko Paradas he put on his car.

Nov 16, 2001 - 01:58 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Tyres, Book
Message: Yokohama Parada's, I've found these to be reasonably grippy, very quiet and smooth running, but they seem to track white lines etc really bad. I only got the Parada's because the AVS Intermediate's are no longer available Stateside. Bridgestone SO-2's were very good in the wet and had good feel, but by far the best tyres I've experienced on an Elan were the original's fitted to an S2, the turn-in was absolutely incredible. Books, I've just got an interesting book via E-bay, it is 'Lotus Elan' by Bruno Alfieri (English edition) and is part of the Italian Automobilia 'La Collection'. There are plenty of interesting photographs and unique illustrations to rival those in Mark Hughes's book. The 70-ish page book is beautifully written, though the translation is not completely flawless, unfortunately it is out of print now, but it's definitely worth trying to track one down.

Nov 16, 2001 - 04:23 - From: jeremy
Title: Dials
Message: The black paint on the inside of my oil pressure dial has fallen off in chunks inside the dial. Probably cos of the condensation that settles there in the winter. Not so bad during the day but it looks cr*p at night when the instrument are lit. Has any one replaced the three dials with something less BLACK and if so were you able to find speedo / revs / fuel / temp dials to match? I tried lockwood for a white dial kit but they don't make one for the elan. Is the speedo not a vauxhall part?

Nov 16, 2001 - 05:16 - From: Guillermo
Title: dials
Message: As I mentioned before German magazines were disappointed to find Calibra dials in a Lotus. In demon tweeks catalogue I found "Lockwood" dials and I looked after them .. disappointing web but you can find them also here: http://www.directcarparts.co.uk/lockwood.htm  (look at Vauxhall Astra Mk3) and the pictures: http://www.directcarparts.co.uk/images/Lockwood/Dial%20Pics/AstraMK3.jpg  . The first one on the left seems to be the one to go.

Nov 16, 2001 - 05:45 - From: Jeremy
Title: Guillermo
Message: Thanks,... these look good. Have you tried these yourself? Are they easy to fit? Are they stickers or plastic dial faces? Thanks again.

Nov 16, 2001 - 09:20 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: having fun
Message: Performed a complete attitude adjustment on an Audi S4 driver this morning. He was weaving in & out of traffic & cut in front of me on his way to glory. When we both turned right on a 3-lane I looked down the road for oncoming traffic & knew I had him. With both his turbos singing away I blew by his overweight 4WD butt like it was a VW Beetle. In the bad old days I would have hit the fuel cutoff, but no longer. Having that little nitrous switch on the dash comes in handy too. He fell way in back of me & stayed there. Hmmm, no more weaving in & out of traffic? Whats'a matter dude?

Nov 16, 2001 - 09:30 - From: Doug
Title: fun
Message: Jeremy, those look like a fun project. Would be cool to find new gauge needles to put on as well. How 'bout some green in the gauges to go with my BRG? You can usually pop the needles off with a plastic fork. Matthew, I am cheering and drooling . . .

Nov 16, 2001 - 11:55 - From: jeremy
Title: this n that
Message: Doug,... I'm keen to see a lockwood white dial kit in the flesh before I spend the kiddies school fees. They do dials in red, green and yellow too. Will keep an eye out for needles. Matthew, well done for 'explaining' it to the lardy Audi. Have a good weekend chaps.

Nov 16, 2001 - 12:06 - From: Dave M.
Title: tires and gauges
Message: Doug, my Kumhos are 205s. That may be the issue. :) As for gauges, the Autometer Phantom series is a good looking set if you're looking for white faces. Charlie has gone this route and I'm seriously considering it. Actually I'm considering replacing the boost gauge and oil pressure and swapping the charging indicator for an EGT. That is if I can figure out what I'm doing with the turbo. Either way I think the radio is getting swapped for the EFI systems Air/Fuel & Injector duty meter. Check http://www.extrememotorsports.com/  or http://www.egauges.com/ . I haven't measured in a while, but I think we need the 2 1/8" gauges.

Nov 16, 2001 - 13:18 - From: Grant
Title: Convertible top glue
Message: The rear edge of my convertible top has separated from the frame. Has anyone else experienced this? Can you recommend a good glue? Thanks!

Nov 17, 2001 - 06:22 - From: Guillermo
Title: dials & gauges
Message: Jeremy, I didn't tried one, but for that price I am seriously considering it. Dave M, what is an EGT ?

Nov 17, 2001 - 10:16 - From: Harlan
Title: Exhaust rattle
Message: I have noticed a progressive increase in a rattling noise from the exhaust system. It is worse when the car is cold and then becomes quieter as the car warms. It appears to be coming from the cat. converter? Should it be replaced or replaced with piece of straight pipe? thanks.

Nov 17, 2001 - 11:00 - From: Doug
Title: Gauges, Rattle
Message: Guys, the gauges look nice, except the range on the speedo is a bit different--the top is 10MPH less thanthe Elan top. Perhaps this is why all Elan speedos read fast; if the internals were the same with a bit faster gauge face then this could explain it?? My guess is that if you use the replacement your speed will still be pretty close. Harlan, the cat screens inside my cat went out years ago and did rattle like you say--also the mid-lower weld on the exhaust hanger gave and rattled as well. I suggest you look underneath to verify the hanger is intact. Why not replace the whole system; the Isuzuperformance system is SO GOOD and such a deal that it is a shame to pass it up!! Talk about opening up the system, I was just admiring the quick turbo spool time the other day with this system in use; if the engine is at 3000PRM or above and I hit the gas, the boost will go from 0 to max (0.9) Bar in just about one second (or less above 3000)--try this on your Elan and you will see the difference if you think about it!!

Nov 17, 2001 - 11:25 - From: Bill Luton
Title: SCCA SoloII Classification
Message: The following message was sent to the IsuzuWeb Mailing List and is a follow up to the article and letter provided in the last issue of Resurgence Magazine on the same topic._ _For those who are not aware, we have been trying to get the Lotus Elan (the FWD convertible two seat car that has the same model Isuzu engine as the 91 Impulse RS and the same model transmission as the 85-93 Isuzu FWD cars) classified to race in SoloII autocross events held by the Sports Car Club of America. We have asked that it be classified for Stock and Street Prepared classes and have provided the SCCA with vehicle specifications and documentation of production numbers as provided by Lotus Cars USA, Inc. _ _ The Solo Events Board (who are responsible for classing cars), under the direction of Howard Duncan, initially refused to acknowledge that the Elan was sold in the United States, claiming that all cars sold in North America were "grey market cars, privately imported by individuals". This is clearly news to Lotus Cars USA, Inc., who imported thousands of Elans and sold them through their dealership network across the US. _ _ The SEB has repeatedly refused to accept the documentation we have provided to them, claiming that their "experts" do not agree with the documentation provided by Lotus Cars USA, Inc. _ _ Further, the SEB has seen fit to class the Elan in with V6, V8, and V10 model rear wheel drive cars in the A Street Prepared class, and has banned the Elan from participating in Stock classes. _ _ This is clearly unacceptable to the members of the IsuzuWeb and to Lotus Elan owners, and we would ask that all IsuzuWeb members and Elan owners write the SCCA SEB to request that the Elan be formally classified for Stock competition and be placed in a Street Prepared class in which it can be competitive. _ _ To this end, we have placed an information page online at: http://www.isuzuweb.org/sccaban.html  _ _ We have additionally placed a form letter there that we request everyone to print out and mail to the SCCA SEB to show that there are a vast number of Elan owners and enthusiasts, as well as Isuzu and Storm owners, all of which wish to see the Elan out on the autocross course, competing against comparable performance vehicles. _ _ Thank you, _ _ _ Bill Luton

Nov 17, 2001 - 12:45 - From: Tony V
Title: Importation numbers..
Message: Bill L....I don't know if it makes any difference...but there were not thousands imported. Somewhere around 600 or so were legally imported into the USA and sold as a USA road legal car through Lotus dealerships. Now..for the SCCA to dispute this is just ridiculous. I am sure that they just don't want to car to compete. Anyways..just wanted you to know the real numbers in case that makes a diff.

Nov 17, 2001 - 14:28 - From: Scott P.
Title: Window fix
Message: Doug, didn't you used to have a section on a window fix? There is a great write-up on window regulator repair by Jade, but I remember seeing something about fixing a design problem relating to the window suspension system. Also, is Lotus really the only place you can get those orange clips? It seems like that should be a GM part we could get through a local dealer. Thanks!

Nov 17, 2001 - 14:48 - From: Doug
Title: Scott
Message: That is the only window write-up. There is more info in the MB archives, I just cannot compile it all into hodge-podge write-ups. I have no experience in the window area. The orange clips are cheap thru Lotus, but I would not be surprised to find it through GM somehow. It would be fun to rummage thru a wrecking yard and pull all the Elan's bastard parts off GM cars sometime!

Nov 17, 2001 - 15:25 - From: Bill Luton
Title: SCCA
Message: Tony, we are going with the numbers Lotus supplied to us. The more central issue is that the SCCA is selectively applying the rules and has classified cars that they themselves do not qualify to be classified under the same rules they are twisting to exclude the Elan._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 17, 2001 - 16:17 - From: Bill Luton
Title: numbers
Message: I would request that there not be a discussion concerning numbers on this forum at this time. I would also request that Tony's message be edited and the number contained there in removed. The numbers provided to us by Lotus themselves indicate several times more than that number. More importantly, any possible commentary or disagreement as to the numbers that might be found by the SCCA would be used by them to exclude the Elan from competition, and citing the number Tony posted would be the end of any attempt to get the car classified. To this end, I would ask that no one post, discuss, publish, advertise, or mention any numbers. Please do not list your car with a tag of "one of only three sold", or one of any number sold. Any postings like that or to that effect will doom any chance to get the Elan classified for competition._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 18, 2001 - 00:36 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: Stock Front brakes=Pontiac LeMans
Message: Being a newbie, I apologize if this is known already. Anyway, after some searching & digging, I have determined that the stock front braking setup for the Elan is the same as that of an 1989 Pontiac LeMans GSE 2.0 (in the US). I have compared calipers, rotors, & pads, and they are identical. Given that this setup is pretty much universally hated, this may not be that great of info, however in regards to caliper replacements, rebuild kits, and sliding pin boots, I thought it would be worth passing along. The setup is only the same for the 2.0 liter engine however, the others use a smaller caliper and rotor with the same pads. I also believe that only the GSE model uses this setup. Somehow I could not help but feel a little insulted when I learned which model this setup was inherited from, heheh.... Joshua Lawrence

Nov 18, 2001 - 11:17 - From: Kevin
Title: Gearbox problems
Message: I have recently purchased an Elan M100 and spent many £££ sorting it out. Now I'm eager to fit mbc and a dump valve. however the gearbox looks as if its going to have to take preference. Its always been a bit notchy and a bit clunky, although livable in most conditions. However after a long run in fifth its a bitch to get any gear you have to wrench it into fourth and severely crunch it into third, that's if you can get it into a gear at all. once you have been up and down the box a couple of times it seems to be ok again. This is severely spoiling my enjoyment. I'm not keen on the idea for throwing another large amount of cash at the car again right now. Do I need a new box or full overhaul or is it possible that it may be a linkage or synchro-mesh problem that may not be so financially crippling. Any ideas advice greatly received.

Nov 18, 2001 - 15:35 - From: Guillermo
Title: Bill
Message: Bill, I appreciate your efforts concerning making available parts and info for the Elan, I have no personal whatsoever against you. I don't know your interest in classifying the Elan in SCCA and personally I feel distant to that matter ... but you say teh SCCA is not applying their own rules ... is there not any possibility to appeal that decisions ? And if not, first, say you will go public with all this matter, if they do not react, publish their decision in a big magazine, make it public. And in any case, I don't think you do your case any good in starting to use false information ... and you know it is ... and your intention to censure input is ridiculous. There are many other webs related to the M100 stating production numbers, like the GGLC and the NYC Club, did you ask them to censure information ? Doug, you can censure this input - I would not regret - but this sounds ridiculous.

Nov 19, 2001 - 03:08 - From: Doug
Title: problem
Message: Shiva, did you figure out your power loss problem? You should check the resistance of your plug wires--you get an electrical meter and read the resistance across the wire, it should be very low--If not then it is fouled. Hell, if you're taking them off to check them you may as well get some Magnecor wires to stick back in there instead. . .

Nov 19, 2001 - 06:20 - From: Gian
Title: stutters
Message: Finally had the chance to measure the resistance of all my ignition leads and compare it to that of a set of new leads (Lotus original spares). Has advised by Mike from Australia, there was a dud one. I replaced all leads and the car now runs smooth. The problem with the engine dying on me every now and then when releasing the throttle at low speed is also gone.

Nov 19, 2001 - 10:47 - From: Bill Luton
Title: numbers
Message: Guillermo, thank you for bringing that to my attention. I have already sent a letter over to Golden Gate. The URL for the New York group does not work, so I am guessing I will not have to worry about that. The IsuzuWeb is a car club for Isuzu powered cars, including the Elan M100. It was suggested that we ask the SCCA to formally class the cars owned by the club members so that we could all run in consistent classes when we race in our own regions around the country. This went rather well for the Isuzu and Geo badged cars, but they are just being unreasonable about the Elan. The rules are ambiguous and they are interpreting words in the rules to mean different things. The word "produced" is being misapplied to mean "sold in the US". And, this misapplied standard is not being applied evenly, as they have classed cars that they themselves openly admit do not qualify, all the while refusing to class the Elan, claiming that it does not meet their misinterpretation of the rule they ignore for these other cars (Audi, Porsche, NSX, Triumph, Maserati, etc.). We've been fighting this for almost two years now, and just about anything they can find to delay and continue to refuse to make the proper decision is going to add more years to this. I'll be honest, if they find more ways to delay, it's going to start looking like it just isn't worth it._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 19, 2001 - 11:44 - From: Ed
Title: SCCA
Message: I'm putting this here instead of direct to Bill just in case others are interested. (Speak up if you are, I'd hate to post lots clutter no one is interested in.) Bill, out of curiosity, how many people do you know with a real interest in running their M100 Elans in SOLO 2? How many already do? Of the eight events I have run in, 6 with my Elan, I have yet to see another M100. I know of 4 other M100s here in Phoenix, but they are not interested in SCCA that I am aware of. I would love to see the car get a stock classification. But even if it does happen, will it do most of us who want to run any good? The reason being that as far as I can tell, any modification of the turbo system at all results in the car getting bumped to D-Mod. Even just the addition of a simple BOV (the idea of a BOV providing a performance enhancement in SOLO 2 is patently absurd). I have had numerous people tell me that the SCCA SOLO 2 rules regarding turbos are very uneducated at best. However, they are still there. So of the people you can name from the first two questions, how many have completely stock turbo setups? Out of those, how many have realistic aspirations of being competitive nationally? I have a boost controller, so I run in D-Mod. No hope of being competitive, but I can still have fun with it. Now, not to be a complete wet blanket, since I really would like to see the M100 honestly classified, I have no trouble with adding my name to the list of SCCA members wanting this corrected. BUT, before I do, I'd have to see the numbers you speak of and be able to verify them. I know nothing of the Audi production numbers, but suspect you may be correct at least on the NSX ones. If you can provide those number as well as the M100 numbers as part of your letter, it would lend it more weight. The numbers must be correct as well. I won't fudge numbers. The production numbers for the M100 that I have seen are 2060 produced in 1991 of which 528 came to the U.S.) The rules state 1000 produced for the year, without comment as to whether that is U.S. specific production. No offense intended, but as your letter reads now, if I were on the board, it would not get much notice. Lots of finger wagging, no details. You must also realize providing those details may still not have the desired effect. There is also the possibility that the only result would be a few other cars on the exclusion list. Thus making those car's owners less than happy with M100 owners. [For everyone else, sorry about the overly long post.]

Nov 19, 2001 - 11:44 - From: Dave M.
Title: SCCA
Message: One suggestion I have for those who are using Bill's letter: if you are not an SCCA member, add that you are considering membership, but this issue is a big factor. It may not mean much to some short-sighted folks there, but if the readers have the slightest business sense, they'll understand that increasing their membership base is a good thing. Please do send in something. You may never attend an event, but we need to support those who want to.

Nov 19, 2001 - 11:51 - From: Dave M.
Title: sorry, Guillermo!
Message: Just getting back to messages - an EGT gauge measures exhaust gas temperature. It is an additional way to determine if your car is running rich or lean along with an Air/Fuel meter. Kind of a belt & suspenders approach to do both, but the more info possible, the better you would be able to tune your car.

Nov 19, 2001 - 18:26 - From: Bill Luton
Title: SCCA
Message: We have provided over 100 pages of documentation to the SCCA concerning getting the Isuzu, Storm, and Elan cars classified. We provided them with letters and documents from Lotus Cars USA, Inc., indicating some 1,000 units in one year and 2,000 units in another. This is confirmed with internal Lotus paperwork signed by Ann Talbot of Lotus Cars USA Inc., among others. We have additionally provided the SCCA with copies of the reported production numbers from Audi, Porsche, and Acura from Ward's Automotive Yearbook showing that the following models failed to meet the required numbers: Audi V8 Sedan (1996: 0; 1995: 3; 1994: 127; 1993: 157; 1992: 388; 1991: 886), Audi S4 (1998:0; 1997: 2; 1996: 754; 1995: 736; 1994: 523; 1993: 691; 1992: 262; 1991: 0), Audi 200 (1995: 0;1994: 2; 1993: 19; 1992: 273; 1991: 856), Audi 200 Quattro (1994: 0; 1993: 8; 1992: 586; 1991: 931), Audi 80 Quattro (1996: 0; 1995: 1; 1994: 1; 1993: 40; 1992: 211; 1991: 355), Audi Coupe Quattro (1993: 0; 1992: 189; 1991: 376), Porsche 911 Turbo (1998: 0; 1997: 835; 1996: 831; 1995: 433; 1994: 212; 1993: 262; 1992: 363; 1991: 357), Porsche 928 (1997: 0; 1996: 15; 1995: 96; 1994: 103; 1993: 121; 1992: 195; 1991: 367), 1995-01 Acura NSX (1999: 301; 1998: 249; 1997: 458; 1996: 702; 1995: 648; Additional documentation showing that changes were made to the 1995+ model cars are essentially different vehicles from the prior models, due to changes in horsepower, transmissions, addition of aluminum body panels, etc.). As to who would race if the cars were classed, the way it stands now, the cars are excluded from stock and ridiculously classed for Street Prepared. Lotus owners are by definition car enthusiasts who are more likely to participate in track days and racing events. When is the last time anyone ever heard of Kia having a track day event and what percentage of owners of their cars would show up? What percentage of Lotus owners show up to track days held by the factory and clubs? Excluding the cars from entry level autocross classes turns away the owner of one of these cars even before they get to the track. The SCCA is saying "Sure, you can race anything you bring, except the car you drive, you will have to find another if you want to race with us". The classes have to be there before the owners will enter the race, and like it or not, if the owner doesn't feel their car could run competitively in a class they have misclassified their car into, they won't even consider entering._ _Keep in mind how easy it is to remove a blow off valve and a bleeder valve to return the car to stock condition so that it can legally run in stock classes. This is normal for many race participants in our area who switch from oversized wheels to stock, remove intakes, and remove strut braces, so that they can run stock class._ _ _Yes, at this point the tone is not of asking but of pointing out that the rules have been applied selectively and in a manner to intentionally prohibit these cars, and that this action by the SCCA is wrong. We passed the asking nicely stage two years ago._ _ _Something that was intended but not stated outright, the letters were placed in files so that you can edit them as needed before printing and mailing. Change the IsuzuWeb member portion to read that you are a member of a Lotus club. Change the SCCA member part as Guillermo suggested, or indicate you are a member of another racing organization who would race with the SCCA also if they straightened things out and offered the appropriate classes for your car._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 19, 2001 - 19:01 - From: Edward
Title: Wind Blocker
Message: I ordered the Wind Blocker, using the link on this website. It arrived a few days ago, and after making 5 trips to Home Depot -- I finally installed it! It was really difficult to find the bolts and nuts listed in the parts list, so I found the equivalent one's in non-metric. The installation was difficult because the brackets, would not fit properly if installed exactly how the instructions explained the setup. If followed, I would have given up precious leg room and reclining on my seat. By cutting the brackets and drilling a new hole, I was able to install and reclaim the leg room. I will try and take some pictures for a write-up this week...

Nov 19, 2001 - 19:11 - From: Rod
Title: Windblocker
Message: You mean this one : http://www.mardibloke.co.uk/pics/windstop/dcmalbum.htm If so I did a write up for the supplier, that parts list was from bits I picked up at my local ( UK ) DIY store, in the write up I mentioned that it only works for me as I am short ( 30" inside leg ), but the supplier may have edited the write up :-(. The advantage of where mine is installed is that you can get the softop up and down with it in place and also fold it flat on the back deck if required.

Nov 19, 2001 - 19:58 - From: Tony V
Title: Importation figures
Message: I sure would hate to be the cause of the Elan not getting classified in SCCA. My post is just what has been repeated on many sites, and if it is wrong..then I am sorry. Go with what Lotus USA is saying..I am sure that is the correct figure. Doug...delete my post concerning the figures and this one as well.

Nov 19, 2001 - 21:43 - From: Ed
Title: SCCA
Message: Bill, if your numbers are correct for all those other makes, and you've been at this two years already... Maybe the best approach would be to seek a wider audience. If you've already put that much into it, then we are certainly dealing with something that is purely politics. Maybe letters to the editor of SportsCar magazine or something. If that hasn't been tried yet. Speaking of which, I just got the latest issue and ironically it has an article about how the SCCA management has decided to make customer service a priority. Maybe now is the time to drag it out again and point to the NSX etc. as examples of other cars being given a stock classification regardless of production counts. As an aside I should think we ought not to worry about the numbers being shown on the various sites. Most of which are so close together if not identical for me to believe that Lotus's real numbers would be that much different. I would certainly like to see the car classified, but I guess not at the cost of having what is probably at least mostly accurate information censored from Lotus web sites.

Nov 19, 2001 - 22:47 - From: Edward
Title: Wind Blocker
Message: Rod, the instructions did include your pictures, albeit not in colour or as large. Over here in America Jima, it's very difficult to find metric bolts. The other problem I found was that the installation, which I followed, does allow me to have the convertible top over it, but I cut the bracket and drilled a new hole. This gave me the extra legroom I needed. Other than that, it looks pretty much like your installation.

Nov 20, 2001 - 01:25 - From: Doug
Title: Front Rotor Replacement
Message: FYI, I have been corresponding with Mark Joseph (dbasport@bigpond.com) at Disc Brakes Australia (DBA) ( http://www.dba.com.au/home.htm ) about our Elan front rotor. It seems with the specs and measurements I emailed him, he has matched the Elan rotor to the GM/Opel Calibra. They have this replacement in their DBA “Longlife Slotted” rotor. The price for Longlife slotted would be US $85.00 each, plus shipping (which may be a lot due to weight). The Part Number is “DBA 023” and weight is 5 Kg’s each. Contact Mark at DBA for more info or to order.

Nov 20, 2001 - 21:06 - From: Rod
Title: Front rota - Calibra
Message: Doug, I don't know if you realise but the Calibra we got in the UK ( now discontinued ) was a bigger/heavier car - kinda like the Mazda 626 you get over there, but in a 2-door coupe body style. Generally a 2.0l 8v or 16v, but there was also a turbo 4x4 version. I would have thought it would have had a bigger caliper than is fitted to the Elan, especially considering that we know the pads to be off a Vauxhall Nova, which is about the size of the old mk1 Honda CRX you guys have a lot of.

Nov 21, 2001 - 02:57 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Orange Clip
Message: Doug, The orange door clip is in the UK GM part number 90286850 and the last time I bought a couple they were 27p + VAT = 32p each.

Nov 21, 2001 - 07:50 - From: mike
Title: DTC's
Message: I've just read the DTC's currently logged, the dreaded 41, also 42 and 54. Non are permanent. I observe an engine stutter most days, the check engine light comes on, then usually goes off again within 30 seconds. Have all the reports resulting in replacing or repairing the CAM sensor had a HARD fault, lamp permanently on?

Nov 21, 2001 - 09:28 - From: Doug
Title: CAS
Message: Mike, sounds like the usual CAS problem to me!! People usually replace them in the stage you are in before is goes to a hard fault.

Nov 21, 2001 - 09:37 - From: Ian H
Title: Paintwork / New Elise / Front Rotor
Message: After all of the troubles with the clear coat and pink paint on the Elan I am about to get it re-sprayed at Peter Smiths (a reputable Lotus Dealer who specialises in fibreglass resprays). I am also picking up my new Elise on Saturday, and will sadly be parting with my Elan before the end of the year, if anyone is interested let me know. For info the front Rotor/Disc is from a 1990 GM/Vauxhall Astra GTE, available off the shelf at Halfords for £25 each.

Nov 21, 2001 - 10:32 - From: Mike
Title: Clear DTC's
Message: Doug, What's the procedure to clear the DTC's and be sure what the current fault(s) is. Are 42 "Electronic Spark Timing" and 54 "CO Potentiometer" known faults with a fix? OEM Brakes in the UK, try Brakes International in Rochdale, they have the rear pad, but again discs are Lotus only. Front GM (Vauxhall GTE) are cheap.

Nov 21, 2001 - 12:16 - From: Doug
Title: CAS woes
Message: Mike, to clear the codes you have to disconnect the battery for a minute or so--this will reset the ECU. The 41 and 42 likely go together, and mean you have a CAS problem if they come back. The 54 may be a result of the CAS or another thing alone. You should do the CAS first and then, if the 54 continues, you have to adjust the CO pot.(see archives for info from a few who have done this) Be sure to check all the electrical connections as a possible cause of the faults as corroded contacts can cause all sorts of Elan protests!

Nov 21, 2001 - 16:14 - From: David Winfield
Title: N on Turbo -Upgrades
Message: I went to Stoneleigh at the week-end and enjoyed the occasion-bought a r/h federal wiper blade for £5.I have spent ££££'s on the car over the past few months including new suspension front and back together with downpipe and and too many other parts to mention. I'm now interested to hear from any other non-turbo/turbo owners for performance upgrades. Great site by the way......

Nov 21, 2001 - 18:24 - From: Rod
Title: Peter Smith
Message: Ian, I had some insurance work done on my car by Peter Smith over 7 years ago. It looked ok initially, but I spotted some overspray and also the clearcoat started to peel in the areas where they had resprayed. Having seen other paint jobs I think they could have done better. As I said this was many years ago, so things may have changed. However I have heard from other people they are still a little expensive compared to other dealers. I guess they are handy for you though - and that would probably be the deciding factor for me too. Is it a complete respray ? Care to tell us how much its going to cost ?

Nov 21, 2001 - 18:27 - From: rod
Title: Upgrades
Message: Sounds like you have been having fun rebuilding a car David, care to tell us why it needed new suspension ? Have a look around the lotuselancentral website, it contains an upgrade section that covers all areas of the car. Then make sure you are at Donington next spring for the Club Lotus event, as I will probably get a few M100 owners together again before the show. Or maybe if there is enough interest we will get a UK Elan meeting going sooner.

Nov 22, 2001 - 08:31 - From: Ian H
Title: Re-spray
Message: Rod, It is going to cost me £1500. When I was getting the Elise I was chatting to Peter Smith about the Elan and the blistering paintwork, I mentioned that I had got a quote for £3000 from his bodyshop, and said that this was way too expensive. He said it should cost £1500, but when I took him up on the offer I think he wished he had not mentioned it but, he said he would honour it anyway, so in the next couple of weeks I will be paying him a visit. He said that they do not mask off any areas they remove everything including the glass. I will let you know how it goes.

Nov 22, 2001 - 12:17 - From: Rod
Title: Respray
Message: Well for £1500 at an approved Lotus place you should be ok, as when you come to sell it the buyer will be impressed. I am at the stage where mine might as well have a complete respray and will be interested to see how yours turns out. Have had quotes from a few garages and the cheapest quotes are somewhere between £1500 and £2000. So you do have a good deal. Peter Smith like doing insurance work - as they charge whatever they feel like IMHO.

Nov 22, 2001 - 14:56 - From: Richard
Title: Respray/coolant
Message: I had my elan resprayed about 2 months ago, it cost just short of £1500, but this included the wheels being resprayed/repaired at the same time-they even had new route oz stickers made. I have to say that I was VERY impressed. It was done at a panelworks in Poole. Does anybody have any idea why my elan keeps chucking out coolant from the expansion tank cap, i have replaced the cap, but still have the problem. It seems to do it until the tank is nearly empty!

Nov 22, 2001 - 15:52 - From: Ade
Title: Stoneleigh
Message: Yes, Richard I visited Stoneleigh last weekend. It was a really good turn out. Lots of cars for sale including m100,s at, sad to say very low prices. Quite a few stalls, I bought two dipped beam lights for two pounds each complete with bulbs and back sealing rubbers, trouble is they are for a left hand drive, no good for me but worth it just for the bulbs and bulb seals. With the sort of turn out there was on sunday I would think It should be bigger and better next year.

Nov 22, 2001 - 18:22 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Richard, coolant
Message: Richard, I had this problem on another turbo car I owned and it turned out I needed to replace the head gasket. Combustion gases were escaping into the cooling system forcing the coolant out of the expansion tank. If I "babied" the car so it didn't come on boost it didn't happen. That is one way you can test to see if the cause of your problem is the same.

Nov 23, 2001 - 03:05 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Respray
Message: I had my Monaco White front resprayed by Rylands 6 years ago and initially it looked O.K but now the white on the wings has turned vanilla but the bonnet (hood) and bumper are still white. This was a Lotus Approved Dealer and guess what, they are not in the least interested as to why I have different shades on different panels. I'm also outside the 6 year legal limit for a small court claim (action has to be started within the 6 year period). I asked Lotus how they monitor their "Approved paint shops" and they said that it was on a complaints basis i.e if they do crap work and no one complains to Lotus itself they will carry on being approved. There seemed to be no quality scheme whatsoever to become "Approved" or any monitoring scheme after being approved (except for direct complaints to Lotus). Be very very careful who you pick to do the work, in my opinion a Lotus Approved Dealer is no better than anyone else. See if you can get a 6 to 10 year guarantee on the work as this may sort the real craftsmen from the flashovers.

Nov 23, 2001 - 10:06 - From: John G
Title: Floor Mats
Message: Has anyone located some really nice Lotus Logo Floor mats for the M100?

Nov 23, 2001 - 10:41 - From: jeremy
Title: carbon fibre parts
Message: I ordered some seat protectors and a windscreen wiper fairing in carbon fibre for the elan and apparently they are in the post. With any luck they will arrive over the weekend so I'll tell you what they are like on monday. Cant wait! If you want details of the range of parts or the e-mail address of the chap Steve who makes them, let me know.

Nov 23, 2001 - 12:12 - From: Dave M.
Title: floormats
Message: It seems when I ordered mine from a place called Bekkers, the logo was available, too (I got the plain charcoal ones). They are great custom-sized mats for what I remember a reasonable price (I'll check the invoice when I'm back home after the holiday). Check http://www.bekkers.com/ , although you will likely have to call. I highly recommend their catalog as well. Yummy.

Nov 23, 2001 - 12:53 - From: David Winfield
Title: New lower front/rear suspension
Message: Rod....thanks for that, i will have a good look around the site. The reason i replaced both lower links at the front and the A-Frames at the back was purely down to corrosion. The suspension parts were not maintained over the years, ie waxoiled and hamerite and i suddenly found myself looking at gaping holes which to be honest i didn't want to chance. I got the rear frames from South West Lotus and the front lower links from Christopher Neil's -however they were hard to come by and expensive.....

Nov 23, 2001 - 16:33 - From: Kevin
Title: Gearbox
Message: I have a UK 91 Elan se unfortunately the gearbox has gone and needs some major parts apparently there are some new boxes for about £1000 the parts from Lotus £650. Does anyone know if this would be a Lotus part or is it Isuzu or Vauxhall if so from what car? Also if anyone knows where I might find a secondhand box either in working order, repairable or for parts. Any advice info or experience gratefully received.

Nov 24, 2001 - 04:38 - From: Steve P
Title: Gearbox
Message: Kevin, I believe that the gearbox casing was slightly modified by Isuzu for the Elan, Bill will no doubt know more about any non standard gear ratios etc.. Lotus did have brand new replacement gearboxes in stock a while ago and sold a number off a few years ago at Donington for £250 each!!! I know of at least one other poster to this board who bought one at the time - Maybe you could make them an offer if you trawl through the archives. I don't think you are likely to find a source other than Lotus for this gearbox in the UK?!

Nov 24, 2001 - 12:58 - From: Bill Luton
Title: transmissions
Message: The good news is the type of transmission is the most common in North America. The bad news is that the gear ratios are all unique to the Elan only. Along with changes to the case itself for clearance around the raft, Isuzu was more than happy to provide ratios and gear sets not used in any other application._ _ _Bill Luton

Nov 24, 2001 - 16:40 - From: Richard
Title: Thanks !
Message: Mathew, thanks for the help, I will get it checked out, it does seem to permanently hiss from the expansion tank, after it has been running, so could be the combustion gases!

Nov 25, 2001 - 09:54 - From: Steve T
Title: Hood/engine
Message: Today people is a great day! I managed to get hold of a mint condition s2 roof today for a song. Finally I can get rid of my tired se roof, just got to add some more material inside the new roof so I don't get the god awful slitting, and I have got to get it fitted. Anyway the guy I bought this from has got a M100 Turbo engine for sale only covered 13,000 miles looks a minter too and he only wants £600 fine english pound notes for some one to take it a way. If anybody is interested his home number is: 01702 204343 Mob:07881818501 His name is Ray and just Say Steve said to call. Happy elaning peeps

Nov 25, 2001 - 10:45 - From: Robert
Title: Richard - Coolant
Message: Richard, I think I've got the same problem as you but not as bad. My coolant loss problem turned out to be a knackered expansion cap, but the new one still hisses very slightly when at max temperature / pressure. I'm guessing that being over-pressured on a regular basis caused the old one to fail. So now I'm scared that I've bought a car with a blown head gasket! I wasn't going to rush out and have the head gasket replaced though, not until it gets really bad (if indeed it ever does.) In the meantime, I'll be checking the coolant every day, and replacing the cap at every service as a precaution.

Nov 26, 2001 - 00:47 - From: Allan Horsley
Title: Instrument Panel Lighting Control
Message: I have an S2 Limited Edition '96 model RHD Elan. The lighting level on the instrument panel is controlled by adjusting a knob on the instrument panel beside the air vent and above the clock. The control unit has become loose in its mounting hole in the panel. I have tried to remove the knob of the control unit without success. There appears to be no obvious way to release the knob, set screw etc. Is there advice available on how to remove the knob and tighten the fitting. Your assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks Allan Horsley.

Nov 26, 2001 - 04:02 - From: jeremy
Title: carbon fibre
Message: My carbon fibre bits came this morning. They are beautiful. I don't know whether I will put them on my car after all or just leave them on my desk to oggle and caress. The wiper blade wing cover is a beautiful piece of work but the seat protectors are even better. At £20 quid a pair you simply must get these! I am now convinced of the quality of workmanship that Steve produces and hope to get a few of the other parts he makes when funds permit (dash top cover panel).

Nov 26, 2001 - 10:05 - From: C Tomes
Title: Reg Plate
Message: How do you guys recommend attaching a new reg plate at the rear of my Elan? should I use some sort of sticky pads or glue it ? doesn't seem to be any screw fixings so a bit unsure - help !! thanks all

Nov 27, 2001 - 01:29 - From: Guillermo
Title: dials
Message: I was wondering about the colour of the illumination of the dials, do they depend on the face or on the "bulbs" behind them, so - just in case I change them - the numbers remain shining in red ?

Nov 27, 2001 - 01:38 - From: Guillermo
Title: dials again
Message: BTW, the dials I found always were face only, today I also found the frames: http://www.kpsport.com/Eng/catalogue/default.asp  (on the left you see an icon with the frames. But only available in yellow, blue, red, silver and transparent.

Nov 27, 2001 - 03:04 - From: Doug
Title: dash bulbs
Message: Guillermo, the dash bulbs are all little clear bulbs only! What about replacement gauge needles?

Nov 27, 2001 - 08:37 - From: kevin
Title: Gearbox update
Message: After speaking to my mechanic today and viewing the damage it seems the parts that i require are basically everything contained within the fifth gear housing if there is anyone out there who may be able to help in locating these parts possibly from a box that has gone in in a different way then please E mail me. Any help gratefully received.

Nov 27, 2001 - 10:48 - From: Guillermo
Title: gauge needles
Message: Doug, why replacing the needles ? Don't you like the color (wouldn't it change with a new dials face ?) or do you want a different style ?

Nov 27, 2001 - 11:16 - From: Ed
Title: Window fix/woes
Message: My right window quit working a couple weeks ago. I could tell the piece that raises/lowers the window was still working so I figured it had just jumped off somehow. After reading the regulator write-up in the maintenance section a couple times (thanks BTW), I had my door apart in short order. Nothing is ever as simple as it seems of course. It turned out that both front guides for the window had come loose. No wonder the lifter piece popped. The bottom guide piece was jammed at the bottom of the guide rail so hard I could not budge it. I realized at this point the window was going to have to come completely out so I could reattach the guides and the front guide rail had to come out so I could get the guide freed up. I wound up having to drill out the rivets that hold that long metal strip (that holds the fuzzy material) to the inside of the top of the door. Once that was out, the rest was quite easy. With that piece out of the way any of the three guide rails can be easily removed and the window can come completely out. The only trick was that after putting it back together, you need to leave the top mounts for the guide rails a bit loose so you can adjust them to allow the window to go up and down without binding. The top mounting points are slotted enough to allow for this adjustment. To put the metal strip back on you'll need a hand riveter and a few 1/4" x 1/8" aluminum rivets. Doug, you may want to add the hand riveter and rivets as potential items on the tools and parts needed section of the window write-up. I got a nice riveter with a 360 degree pivoting head and a box of assorted rivets at the local home shop for $25. That and a spare screw from my jar of odds and ends to reattach one of the guides was my total cost for the project. Beats the heck out of 3-4 hours labour at $85 an hour that the shop would have charged. It's been working great ever since.

Nov 27, 2001 - 16:02 - From: charlie
Title: crunch!!!
Message: well it had to happen sooner or later i suppose, and its a good excuse to get the car in for a respray, initially it looks like a quick bumper spray, then you start to look, slight oil leak, gaps not quite as big, popped panels ! hopefully get a nice shiny car back in january, late december, fix the bumper $780, do the whole car $4k so i went with the full monty

Nov 27, 2001 - 16:07 - From: charlie
Title: rheostat, removal, alan
Message: just pop the lid off the top of the dash and work your way over to it from there, I'd imagine that's the easiest way to get to it. mines loose too.

Nov 27, 2001 - 16:52 - From: charlie
Title: Funny thign
Message: when i took the car off to the bodyshop this morning i noticed the oil gauge was pretty much stuck at about 9 bar, and there's a very slight oil leak, about 10 drops overnight, now the oil is probably all leaked out, wouldn't it read 0 bar and not 9, or is there something I'm just missing on how its supposed to work?

Nov 28, 2001 - 03:16 - From: Giles
Title: Error 42
Message: Does anyone have any useful info / tips on an error 42 problem (Electronic Spark Timing circuit). Cheers!

Nov 28, 2001 - 17:03 - From: Dave M.
Title: fuel controllers
Message: Has anyone had experience or know anyone who has experience with a unit such as the Apex'i Super AFC, HKS VPC, GReddy Repic III, or equivalent unit? It looks like I'm going with bigger boost and if I need larger injectors, I'll need some sort of control over the process. Any knowledge would be helpful!

Nov 29, 2001 - 04:48 - From: Philbo
Title: Fuel controllers
Message: Dave M, I know of a man who has offered to fit any number of ECU's to my Elan. He specifically recommended the Unichip as being a good match for the 4XE1 engine, known to work. He's based in Dorking, Surrey, UK.

Nov 29, 2001 - 12:39 - From: Steve
Title: Dials
Message: I guess that there are a number of owners quite interested in changing the black dials to white faced, and it sounds like some of you have already done this. Any chance of a write up on this website, including pics, where to buy from, and possible problems (like removing the needles)