March 2003 Message Board
Mar 1, 2003 - 04:51 - From: Jørgen,DK
Title: Interior lights
Message: You can turn interior lights on/off just like Rudz describe. The switch that turns the light on automatic when doors are open, are build-in to doorlock itself ( See Electrical manual page 24). Well, but I'm sure you all know that.!. Jørgen
Mar 1, 2003 - 08:36 - From: Ryan
Title: Damp Behind the Seats
Message: I was thrilled to find that my Elan was one of the very rare breed of "non-leakers". No matter how bad the rain, driving or stationary i could find no leaks from the hood. But this morning i found a damp patch in front of the rear speakers behind the seats? Cant work out where the water has gotten in while stood on my drive? What can i do about this and is it going to cause any other problems, THANX
Mar 1, 2003 - 16:11 - From: Joel
Title: GGLC Track Day @ Laguna 4/9
Message: Speaking of track days--the Golden Gate Lotus Club has just announced the details of its first (of 4) track days for 2003 scheduled for April 9 at the legendary Laguna Seca reaceway. See their website: gglotus.org for details. The limit is 60 cars, and the spots are expected to fill quickly. And speaking (again) of roll bars--they are not required at this track so you don't have have to worry about having to design/fab/install one in the next month! See you there. Happy Lotusing, Joel
Mar 2, 2003 - 11:02 - From: Derrick
Title: Lowering Springs
Message: Hey all, wondering if anyone has used aftermarket stiffer/lowering springs on the Elan. What were the Spring rates etc? Feedback please! Ive tried to get hold of Dave Schmid who did the entire set up, but havent got a response. I am looking primarily for the rear as I have the GAZ adjustables on the car and want to use Lotus Stock in rear with Lowering/stiffer springs.
Mar 2, 2003 - 12:19 - From: Paul S
Title: front wheel bearing
Message: can anyone tell me the bearing number for the front wheel bearing????
Mar 2, 2003 - 12:37 - From: keith g
Message: lotus number a100c6009f on bearing SKF BAHB 311396B
Mar 2, 2003 - 13:50 - From: andrew
Message: Ryan, was the car left pointing up-hill? The water can run under the door, get past the seal and then build up until it leaks over the plastic sill-cover and behind the seat. Does that sound likly?
Mar 3, 2003 - 14:30 - From: Jørgen, DK
Title: Up-date to my homepage.
Message: Hi all. I was looking hard on the net to find a good Elan SE, and was so lucky also to find "LotusElanCentral". Especial this message board is very helpful for a newbe, and i think i will be needing your help in the future. I'm danish so i hope you will forgive all misspellings etc. I have just made an up-date to my homepage and it's now in english. Please make a visit, see what I do, and take a look of my cars and projects.: www.danbbs.dk/~delta Regards Jørgen.
Mar 3, 2003 - 14:50 - From: ryan
Message: Thanks andrew, very possible. the incline is very slight but exists and the rain was of the terrential nature.
Mar 3, 2003 - 15:11 - From: Dave M.
Title: Jorgen's in-process shots
Message: Interesting photos of your restoration! The front end status looks similar to what is sitting in my garage (Monaco White and all!). One thing I did find interesting is the radiator and a/c condensor appear to be standing upright. On the US car, they are at approximately a 45 degree angle leaning back due to extra material for 5 mph crash standards. We have a honeycomb-type aluminum crush piece sitting directly behind the front bumper. This gave me fits in trying to stuff a FMIC in there. Looks like non-US owners could use more than the 8" tall intercooler I ended up going with.
Mar 3, 2003 - 16:29 - From: Tony V
Title: Looking for body part
Message: Hello all...I am looking for the left front "top shelf" for an M100 US spec car. Lotus Part # is A100B1251S This the front nose and left front. email me off list email@example.com
Mar 4, 2003 - 06:14 - From: Dimitris GR
Message: Hi guys, sorry for posting this one here, but is there anybody that has (or knows a url to find) an Elan's caricature (funny cartoon picture) to use it as an avatar in a forum that I participate? I searched for it internetwide and found nothing :(
Mar 4, 2003 - 06:26 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Proportioning Valves
Message: Yesterday, I installed the new proportioning valves I purchaised from SJ Sportscars. I remind you thet Steve @ SJS was extremely helpful and the package was delivered to me in under 3 days from the time of ordering !!!! So the only thing to discuss is how the brakes work! I only drove my baby for not more than 10Km in traffic jam, so I cannot say much, but I can say that the feeling is the same (more or less expected) and the braking was also the same (not expected). Maybe I comment more after some days of braking oooops driving!
Mar 4, 2003 - 07:09 - From: chris brown
Title: second intercooler
Message: hi all i have now finished installing my second under bonnet intercooler and have some pictures i would like to post on this web site (can anyone help with this) i am very pleased with it as it makes a differance to the car and also looks great . see what you all think
Mar 4, 2003 - 09:42 - From: Philbo
Title: Chris Brown's IC
Message: Pictures of Chris Brown's intercooler are available here: http://www.informatica.zen.co.uk/elan/ic Apparently the IC came from a Rover 220 Turbo and the nice pipework was a custom job. From the looks of it, the IC is mounted in "serial" to the standard IC, and the inevitable pipe run could induce slightly more turbo lag I suppose. Obviously the standard airbox was removed to make space. One thing that is interesting is that the turbo air intake will get warmer air from the IC, this warm air then gets sent through the std IC, then the new IC, getting cooled by the colder air that is normally fed to the airbox, before going on to the intake plenum. Sort of circular cooling effect...
Mar 4, 2003 - 11:23 - From: Ash
Title: Non Turbo Front bumper
Message: Please help me locate a bumper for a N/A Elan, I understand these to be different to the Turbo version, does anyone know in what way? cheers Ash
Mar 4, 2003 - 12:28 - From: Sean
Title: New to the Elan
Message: Hello all, Just wanted to ask a couple of questions and since you all seem a friendly bunch thought I would take the plunge, I have just posted on the elanscan message board. (possibly in the wrong place) so thought I should post here too. I have a 91 Elan SE Turbo, that currently is standard, however I am having a couple of small problems that I thought you might be able to help with, I have spoken to D Massey at Lotus and although he was helpful he seemed keen for me to take it to the dealer (unsurprisingly) where I really want to try to do the work myself (after all thats why I bought the car!) okay firstly the car seems to be producing VERY low stock boost. around 0.4 Bar the engine is mint and of very low mileage and the previous owner tells me that it has always produced that amount of boost (but then he only had it sine september!) in addition to this the intake pipe from the inlet manifold seems to Squeeze itslef together when revving from inside the engine bay, could this be a blockage in the system somewhere? I am having the Bailey motorsport Dump Valve fitted on Friday and am planning to build a MBC soon afterwards but would really like to solve this problem beforehand. Secondly I am experiencing a strange problem with the revs of the car, it seems to Idle at around 1000-1200 RPM at most times, but sometimes when it is cold much higher, and at times it sticks at around 2,200rpm. According to Lotus it should be sitting at around 950rpm. Also when it idles high it seems to absolutely drink the fuel and throw out more smoke from the exhaust than is usual (especially when its cold) which would lead me to believe it is overfuelling. unfortunately I believe that my temperature sender unit is broken as it never gets above cold so its difficult to diagnose if the problem could be the ECU temp sensor! Again, anyone got any Ideas??? Thanks so much in advance
Mar 4, 2003 - 13:29 - From: Doug
Message: Welcome to the site, and congrats on the Elan. We'll help you sort it out. Sounds like it could be a few things; but first question is: do you have a laptop? If so I'd recommend you download the ElanScan program and get a cable to run it (see links in ElanScan area). This program will read all the car's sensors, boost, ignition, etc and is a worthy investment for a DIY type! This will show you if a sensor is bad for sure. You could also have a sticky wastegate actuator rod or a non-functioning boost solenoid valve (BSV) as the stock wastegate is actually 0.4bar, and only with the BSV working will it go up to 0.65bar. But the idle thing seems to be something unrelated, maybe a bad Coolant Temp Sensor--you could check this with a multimeter if you had to but I did that before and it is not very precise that way.
Mar 4, 2003 - 15:03 - From: Jørgen
Title: Low temp.
Message: It seems that I'm not the only one who suffers low temp. When driving in -2C deg., it is almost impossible to get the heater going. I have changed the thermostat -didn't help, tried block of half the cooler, a little better, but the gauge still shows almost nothing. Has anyone a good idea on how to solved this problem. Jørgen
Mar 4, 2003 - 15:08 - From: Dave M.
Title: Sean - BSV
Message: I'm with Doug on the boost solenoid valve (BSV). It's the small, round, clear-topped unit that sits behind the air filter canister. It will have hoses coming out of it. Check to make sure they are connected - one to the turbo compressor outlet, the other to your intake pipe between the airbox and the turbo. I forget (as I've had my BSV removed a while), but I think there's also a third leading to a vacuum switching value - a blue-topped piece mounted in the right hand side of the engine bay, near the airbox.
Mar 4, 2003 - 15:53 - From: Philbo
Title: Circular cooling
Message: By "circular cooling" I actually meant that what goes around (the heat) comes around...
Mar 4, 2003 - 15:57 - From: Matthew Welsh
Message: Jorgen, normally my temp. gauge shows at 1/4 the way up when running at cold temps, but we just had the coldest winter in 7 years here in Florida and during these cold times my gauge would run like you said, just a tick above full cold. I too thought the thermostat was bad and changed it to no effect. What gives here? It does not seem to make the car run poorly though. I too would like to hear what further owners have to say.
Mar 4, 2003 - 15:58 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Bye bye Isuzu?
Message: Quote from page 42 of the April Motor Trend magazine, "Speculation is rampant that Isuzu will have to pull out of the North American market within a year". Get used to paying those Lotus prices or stock up wisely fellas.
Mar 4, 2003 - 15:59 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: World's best intercooler!
Message: From page 40 of April's Motor Trend magazine. The current Ford F-150 Lightning concept uses an additional evaporator (this is the part that goes inside the cab of your car under the dash that air blows through to get cold, right as the R12/R134A is turning into a gas and absorbing heat) in the A/C unit and locates it in the engine's intake tract. It is activated whenever the driver activates wide-open throttle or presses a button on the dash. Ford calls it the "Supercooler" and says it raises the engine's output by 50HP. The engineers point out this is done simply by taking advantage of the hardware that already exists in the vehicle. "One of a blown engines dirty secrets is that they don't maintain their rated horsepower when used in heat-generating conditions."
Mar 4, 2003 - 16:42 - From: Laurence
Title: new to Elan
Message: Sean, I wonder if you have a hose collapsed internally between the Turbo/intercooler/throttle body or have a clogged up air filter, or one of the 1/4" BSV hoses Dave described is blocked (it's just the 2 by the way)? These would be simple things to check yourself. If the hose from the Turbo (wastegate actuator) was pulled off from BSV then I think you would actually have a constant bleed and the boost could zoom up to about .9bar and the ECU would cut the fuel supply off (a bit dangerous and not recommended but you would find out if it was the BSV or not!). I'm a bit rusty on this but if I remember correctly, with the ignition off the BSV is closed but it should start to open as you approach 0.4 boost until it then starts to cycle open and closed to hold max boost at 0.65. The boost gauge on most standard cars never seems to get much over 0.5 anyway but you should at least get there. Good Luck Laurence
Mar 4, 2003 - 16:52 - From: Laurence
Title: Low temp
Message: Mine's very similar in sub zero (talking deg's C) conditions but after about 20 mins driving it starts to come up a bit and I start to get a medium amount of heat out of the heater. Not enough to take the hood down though! I think the secret is to get put your foot down and work that Turbo (a bit difficult if the road's are icy though) - Laurence
Mar 4, 2003 - 17:33 - From: Paul
Message: I live up here in the Northeast USA. While I store the car during the winter, I get it out monthly to exercise the AC and bring the engine up to full temp. I have had no trouble doing so. In fact, if left at idle, the guage goes all the way up to 3/4 and cycles the cooling fans on. The temperature is well under freezing when I do this. I think this is the proper design of the engine cooling system. If the engine is not coming up to temp, there are really only a few causes - thermostat not working properly, guage defective or perhaps a wiring problem of some sort.
Mar 4, 2003 - 17:57 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: low temps
Message: Car works fine as you say when left to idle in the drive. Temp goes to 3/4 and fans come on then cycle normally. But if driving (moving) in the really, really cold stuff the temps stay lower than 1/4.
Mar 4, 2003 - 21:22 - From: Ed
Title: Looking for previous owner...
Message: Are any of the Southern California owners around here (and you too Doug) familiar with anyone that would have owned a BRG Elan in the Lancaster area during the '90s. Title was reissued in January of 1996 so I'm guessing that is when the original owner sold it to the person I bought it from. The guy I bought it from claims to know nothing about the mods and they were done by the original owner. Mods include Garret turbo, EBC, custom intake ducting, BOV, etc. What I'm trying to find out without taking the intake off is if the owner also went for upgraded (larger) injectors. Also, if those who have done the injector change out thing can tell me, is there a visible difference from the stock ones just by lookin at the visible part of the top without pulling them? Thanks much...
Mar 5, 2003 - 01:20 - From: Ben
Title: Low Temps
Message: I've been driving my Elan throughout the summer here in Australia and have had similar results. If left idling the gauge gets up to the 3/4 mark quite quickly. However, once the car is moving it drops to 1/4 or slightly lower. This in temps as high as 40C.
Mar 5, 2003 - 03:08 - From: ryan
Title: Its all making sense now.
Message: Just got my elan back from lotus service centre (christopher neil) - had full A+C plus cambelt service. Unfortunately three unwanted problems have arisen. Firstly the Revs are sticking at about 2K when idling. Secondly the boost is only going to .4 where is was going up to .65(stock btw). and lastly the switch that changes airflow in the car to windscreen, feet etc (don't know what its called) is not working - just get very hot feet now. I cant see how this last one would be related to the service but i've no way of demisting the car now! - Not happy with Lotus at all right now!
Mar 5, 2003 - 03:30 - From: ryan
Title: car cover
Message: Does anyone have any input on car covers for the elan. I am looking for a full outdoor cover to keep the rain off it, not just a showercape? There must be a cover for a mazda mx5 or something similar that would fit on the elan reasonably snug, thanx.
Mar 5, 2003 - 04:03 - From: karl
Title: THANK YOU TO DOUG
Message: thanks matey, for making my elan, car of the month, very much appreciated. And i hope to see some people off this board on sunday at the donnington lotus show. come and say hello, i will be the one getting stuck on the grass because i have lowered the elan another 1" from that photo thanks
Mar 5, 2003 - 04:34 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Airflow Switch
Message: Ryan, there is a strange connector right behind the switch that must have been disconnected. You can reach it with your hand by removing the cover under the steering wheel-column (not the steering wheel itself). Be careful to connect it properly and test it before screwing the cover back, because the connector is really strange and you can easily make mistake.
Mar 5, 2003 - 05:36 - From: Laurence
Title: Air flow switch
Message: Ryan, in addition to what Dimitris said, first check the vacuum pipe that operates the flaps. You will find it behind the glove compartment and also connecting to the throttle body (left hand rear corner - looking from the front)- could well have come adrift. At least you have heat - don't complain! Laurence
Mar 5, 2003 - 06:05 - From: Sean
Title: Further with my elan
Message: Yes I do have a laptop, and Im in the process of connecting up the circuit as we speak. However back to the BSV on the turbo I checked mine and there only seems to be one hose connected to it, which appears to be coming directly from the wastegate. Below the bsv there is a nozzle which feels as though it should house a hose, however I am at a loss to locate where it could be, so any help here would be MUCH appreciated. Also.. How the hell do you get to the temperature senders with the damn CAS in the way? Is it pretty safe to remove the CAS as long as I mark the position it was set at? How safe is it to fit this MBC? I'll have the blow off valve by friday and wouldn't consider it before then but I'd love the extra power if it was relatively safe. And finally with regards the high idling etc, having a wiggle with the leads seemed to sort it out quite a lot, but until the car is "really" warm it does seem to overfuel causing quite a lot of white vapour from the exhaust, any ideas??? Thanks again guys
Mar 5, 2003 - 06:23 - From: Paul
Message: For anyone attending Donington on Saturday, I will be selling a new set EBC rear brake pads (still boxed). Sadly I sold my M100 a few months ago and never got round to fitting them.
Mar 5, 2003 - 07:19 - From: Andrew
Message: You can get really good car covers from Cover-Craft. In fact they even have an M100 on the car-cover home page! I have one of these covers and the fit is very good, it is also very water-proof! http://www.covercraft-europe.com/car.html
Mar 5, 2003 - 08:08 - From: Andrew
Title: Cover offer
Message: In fact, they have an Elan cover in the 'seconds' section for £100! Check if it's an M100 before you buy, I guess! http://www.covercraft-europe.com/offer.html
Mar 5, 2003 - 09:20 - From: Laurence
Title: Further with my elan
Message: Sean, the other hose is one of two that connects at the point where the turbo intake hose joins the airfilter box. You must have one hanging loose feeding unfiltered air to the Turbo! Check here for an MBC a lot of us use: Rob C installation details are here on Rod's site: www.mardibloke.co.uk/Cars/Lotus_Elan_M100/Upgrades/Rob-C_Boost_Controller/rob-c_boost_controller.html This can be used in place and instead of the BSV so if your BSV is faulty it's a cheap fix! I would then keep your boost to about 0.75 on the gauge, this is in case it reads low - at .92 the fuel pump cuts out (unless you get a fuel cut out defeater - FCD) Laurence
Mar 5, 2003 - 10:38 - From: Doug
Message: Sean, the CTS is tight behind the CAS. You can disconnect the rubber-end electrical connector from it to test the resistance without moving anything--just be sure the engine is not too warm! If you are going to use ElanScan then just wait to run it to read the CTS and other sensors if your car is running okay. Maybe think about new spark leads if you meant they are on the fritz--SJS has some of the Magnecors for a good price. Consider they are over 10 years old, and could have over a Billion sparks fired thru them if you have enough mileage! The turbo hose routings are pictured in the manual pages you can get to from a link on the "repairs" section.
Mar 5, 2003 - 10:48 - From: keith g
Title: lo temp
Message: I think the thermostats they sell now are a few degrees colder than original. [180 instead of 185 IIRC] I switched to a 190-195 thermostat and it is much happier, runs at 1/4 instead of a tick over low. Plenty of heat. all cars will get hot in the driveway, but if the thermostat is dead it will cool off as soon as you hit cruising speed [brrr]. I am keeping a 180 deg thermostat in reserve if it seems to run too hot in the summer
Mar 5, 2003 - 15:23 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: low temp
Message: Thanks Keith, I think you just solved my problem! Thanks again.
Mar 5, 2003 - 15:48 - From: Mars
Title: Karl's car
Message: WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Be careful, any more mods & it could be headed for the Riceboys home page. Just kidding.
Mar 5, 2003 - 16:34 - From: Dave M.
Title: Karl's aftermarket
Message: Nice looking car, Karl (I'm partial to the white!). Did you replace the strut assembly to lower the car like that or just install different springs? I'd love to get that on the track with center of gravity lowered a few inches! Did the seats go in fairly easily? Did you have to permanent mount them or are they on sliders? Did it raise the seat much from stock? After looking at the way your shoulder bolsters curve in, there may be hope to stuff a few seats in mine with my rollbar!
Mar 6, 2003 - 05:05 - From: chris brown
Title: karls car
Message: well done mate looks great
Mar 6, 2003 - 07:00 - From: karl
Title: thank you for the compliments
Message: thanx alot ppl, glad you like it, because some ppl dont right answer question time LOL, they are heavy duty springs that have been cut and re-tensioned, coilovers on the back, had it dropped by about 2"-3" and front has gone down about 2", the seats are on the original lotus sliders, just had to drill the mounts and seats bolt on. they are a bit wide at the bottom but they do go in. you actually sit lower in the car now not higher btw, and if anyone wants to buy a alloy gear knob, get a focus one from ford about £25 and it looks original because it has the gate on the top as well, just rethread the bar, took me 5 mins
Mar 6, 2003 - 07:30 - From: Sean
Title: Spot On
Message: Spot on on the hose guys, the previous owner had left it dangling at the back of the engine and I hate to think of the sort of crap it was sucking in. It's now connected back in its rightful place! Idle problem turned out to be a sticky throttle position Switch as a blast of wd40 and a wiggle ahs sorted that now too. However Im still having the problem with the whole temperature of the car thing. I'll get the ElanScan logs on as soon as possible. A big thankyou to everyone for helping me with this. Another thing, does anyone know of any UK lotus clubs or societies other than the official lotus one? I'm in Bishops Stortford in Hertfordshire.
Mar 6, 2003 - 07:31 - From: stephen
Message: when i get to Donington on sat i will be looking for a dump valve and a bleed valve. if any one has any for sale i will be in a pacific blue j plate. p.s paul, ill have a look at your brake pads. p.s.s if anyone is driving down from Scotland or the north of England email me and we can me up. cheers, stephen.
Mar 6, 2003 - 08:47 - From: Laurence
Title: Spot on
Message: Sean, Club lotus, 01362 694459 or get yourself up to Donington on Sat or Sun and join on the day! Quite a big group of M100's will congregate up at the Donington services (J23A) 9:30 on Saturday leaving by 10:15 (latest) for the parts fair. They will all park up together at Donington and then meet back at the cars at 2:30 for discussions about leaking roof seals, electric window fixes, dump valves, manual boost controllers etc. etc. See Rod's site at http://www.mardibloke.co.uk/Cars/Lotus_Elan_M100/Meets/Previous_Meetings/Donington/2001.html (Also see www.british-cars.co.uk) PS. I went to Waterside school in Stortford a very very long time ago! Laurence
Mar 6, 2003 - 11:41 - From: Andrew
Title: For Sale maybe .......
Message: Hi guys, was thinking that I might be selling my M100 this spring. I'm based in West London. If anyone is looking, this is quite a good little car: 1994 S2 Turbo, Red, 65K miles, FSH, leather, recently had B+C service. Also BBR & cat removed (still have cat). Private reg. New radiator & 2 new alloys on the front. New 'A' pillar seals (got fed up waiting for NTC to bring out the new ones). Anyone looking.........
Mar 6, 2003 - 16:01 - From: Shaun
Title: High idle
Message: Hi Since modifying my engine with a K+N filter, MBC, HKS dump valve and fuel cut defenser the increase in performance is great, unfortunately the idle speed seems to have increased from around 800 RPM to around 1200 RPM. Any ideas???
Mar 6, 2003 - 17:07 - From: Ryan
Message: I'm sure i'll get a lot of replies here But this is a question that should help everyone. SO, How many miles should i be getting on a full tank of fuel - urban and motorway. I'm getting well below 200 miles on a tank and by my calculation that is no where near what the spec sheet says?
Mar 6, 2003 - 17:20 - From: Doug
Title: Shaun's Idle
Message: None of those additions should inherently change the idle speed, EXCEPT that fuel cut defenser. It may be sending an errant reading to the computer, as I assume it is a modified MAP sensor circuit. I'd recommend you remove it/replace it to normal if you can and that should rectify the idle issue (to prove that is the culprit). If you were running the ElanScan program you could read the MAP readings/waves/curve and see if it is correct! Can you check the output voltages of the MAP on a bench type set-up?
Mar 6, 2003 - 17:45 - From: Peter W
Title: Re: Mileage
Message: I get ~290 miles per full tank, driving 'vigorously', mostly freeway. More than once, with the gauge showing just under 1/8 tank and the fuel light on, I've experienced fuel starvation on a 360 degree offramp, and head right to the station.
Mar 6, 2003 - 18:41 - From: stephen
Message: has anyone ever experienced dipped beam headlight glass on both sides shattering? They both seemed to go at the same time and the full beam lamps are ok. It can't be down to stone chips or vandalism as I haven't been driving at night - could they be staying on and overheating or could it have been when I hit a pothole and the glass hit of the inside of the pods. It's just the lenses that are shattered - the bulbs are ok.
Mar 7, 2003 - 08:19 - From: Andrew
Title: HiSpec Brakes
Message: Guys, I don't want to kick off another big discussion on brakes, nor do I want to tempt 'Lead Eater' into praising the original set up again (maybe he designed it, hence the big defense?!). Anyway - my question is - has anyone used their HiSpec brake system on a track day? How did they perform when really hot etc?
Mar 7, 2003 - 11:28 - From: Rod
Title: Hi Spec on track
Message: Yes. I have used the standard Lotus setup, then Tarox discs, various pads, braided lines, and fluid changes. For 2002 I had Hi Spec 285mm EBC grooved discs, four pot calipers ( no dust seals ) and DS2500 pads. I run standard 15" wheels. I am pretty sure a big problem on standard calipers is they just cannot get rid of the heat. Someone should really try ducting air in, as you can pretty easy get a long pedal and brake fluid that needs changing every track day. Changing pads, discs, and braided lines, make it fine for hard road use, but still on track the calipers overheat. I never warped my Tarox discs, but know people that have warped ATE and EBC discs. Spending the money on Hi-Spec is not really worth it for road use IMHO, but on track you can stay out for longer sessions, braking is improved, finally I was getting some heat into even the rear brakes and I have not had a fluid problem. Biggest gain is on circuits with multiple high speed stops ( eg Donington full circuit ), as the brakes just keep working. Only problem I have is that I warped a disc with the Hi Spec setup, and would like two piece discs which they don't do. Hope that helps.
Mar 7, 2003 - 11:53 - From: Sean
Title: Elans and Temperature
Message: Sorry to bug you again Guys but being a newb you are my best source of help. I think that my temp gauge may actually be okay as my elan does not seem to be getting very warm at all. the heaters blow out warmish air, but by no means hot. Has anyone experienced this and have a possible solution? I live in the UK and its pretty cold here so I may be just being obsessive, but better safe than sorry. Just had the Bailey Motorsport dumpvalve fitted. And its a great mod. Thanks for the advice. Sean
Mar 7, 2003 - 12:05 - From: Andrew
Message: Sean, your Elan sounds like it basically performs like mine. When sitting in traffic it'll go to 3/4 then the fans cut in. When driving around in 'normal' temps (ie: 10 - 25 degrees-C) it'll sit around 1/4. The heater will not give out much heat at any time I. But during really cold weather like we've just had I find that the temp will hardly rise off the bottom, even after half hour on the motorway. I suspect that the main reason that the temp rises so fast when sat at tick over is that the water pump is running too slowly to get the water around the radiator. I did a test on the motorway - running down the M1 at 100mph for several miles (temp sat on 1/4), then I just put the car in neutral and let it coast. Within one minute or so the temp gauge had started to rise, and I was still going at a fair pace. So I deduce that it is not lack of air through the rad, but lack of pumping through the rad. Comments......?
Mar 7, 2003 - 12:14 - From: Philbo
Title: Hi Spec on track
Message: Andrew, I back up what Rod says: even uprated discs and pads in the standard setup can't cope with track demands. I managed to basically melt the whole of my standard braking system on an airfield day, which places higher demands on the brakes than a typical track day. This led to the immediate quest for uprated brakes, and since finding and installing the Hi Spec setup I've not experienced any fade on track and much more stopping power. I too have had a disc warped when I let a friend drive, but he did abuse it terribly (locked the wheels and then tried to steer round a chicane with the wheel still locked, wrenching the wheel from side to side...imagine the forces acting on the disc)
Mar 7, 2003 - 12:22 - From: Nick
Title: Too cold!
Message: Not put a message up before so hi everyone! -have owned my Elan for over 3 years, and just fix stuff as it goes wrong. Sean -I could never get warm air, especially on motorways and the gauge was well below the 1/4 mark - turns out the thermostat was faulty (stuck open) cos after about a year of running the car it then went and stuck closed, and overheated with coolant shooting out of the reservoir! It was quite a surprise to get really warm air too, once fixed, even in the UK winter! For about £10 and 30min its worth a try.
Mar 7, 2003 - 12:30 - From: rudz
Title: cooling fans down !
Message: this morning both my radiator cooling fans decided to take a break from their normal duties & as a result, temperatures shot up immediately. i have checked the radiator thermal switch on the thermostat housing. the fans themselves are ok. the 2 fuses for each cooling fan (in the top dashboard) are also good. does anybody have any ideas on what might have gone wrong or what else i should be checking ? does the air-con pressure switch have a reputation for failing ? Doug, would ElanScan help here ? cheers ... rudz
Mar 7, 2003 - 12:46 - From: Doug
Message: I agree with Nick on the thermostat! Mine (in hindsight) was cracked open a hair for about 6 months allowing the car to run too cold on the highway--when I exited and stopped the car would run on the high "cold idle" setting (clue to think about). Then it stuck closed and I almost overheated it! So if your problem is too cold you should know that our thermostat has a nasty habit of slowly failing like I described!! Rudz, if your t-stat fails closed, hot coolant will NOT get past it enough to engage the fan thermal switch--you need to know this switch is on the "far side" of the t-stat!!
Mar 7, 2003 - 13:20 - From: andrew
Message: Being cheap now - could I get away with keeping my EBC discs and installing new Hi-Spec calipers? Or does a lot of the added performance come from the larger diameter discs?
Mar 7, 2003 - 13:36 - From: Rod
Title: Hi Spec with standard discs
Message: Good idea Andrew, and the Hi Spec mounting bracket might put the caliper in the same place, but even if it did, you will need new pads to fit the caliper and these have a bigger pad area, hence will overhang standard discs. Not good for the discs or pads. Suggest you wait until you need to spend money on new discs / pads, and then consider the Hi Spec option. You could also see if there is a Willwood kit available for Elan and price that up.
Mar 7, 2003 - 14:10 - From: Grant
Title: Bills Upper Intercooler pipe
Message: I just received Bills Upper Intercooler Pipe the other day. I assume the install is pretty simple but I am not sure exactly where to connect the hose that comes off the HKS blow-off valve or the small pipe coming out the side of the blow-off valve? Can any one help, or point me in the right direction?
Mar 7, 2003 - 14:46 - From: Matthew Welsh
Message: Things have warmed up and my car is back at normal low temps now. I was going to hold off changing the t-stat until next winter. However, now that I know the early warning sign I will change it within the next couple week(ends). What I can add now is that you can play with your fan thermal switch without changing the t-stat or your coolant. The trick is this: I have all 3 different thermal switches now and I played with them all to see their effect. What you do is jack up your car fully in the FRONT only and wait until your car is entirely cold. At that point you can loosen the overflow-tank cap enough to depressurize your cooling system. This will allow you to unscrew & remove your thermal switch with NO coolant leakage because your t-stat is closed and even though lower than your overflow reservoir will not let any coolant past to escape out the gaping hole created by the removal of your thermal switch. What a joyous thing to discover!
Mar 7, 2003 - 14:51 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Bills Upper Intercooler pipe
Message: Grant, the pipe you can let vent into the atmosphere. The hose you connect using the supplied tee fitting into the vacuum line coming from the far end of your intake manifold (on the left side, facing it, of the thing that says "DOHC 16V"). Grant, is Bill still selling this piece, as on his web site it says it is no longer available?
Mar 7, 2003 - 16:40 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: 195 or 180 ?
Message: It seems like the on-site recommendation " The O.E. thermostat of the 4XE1-T engine is 180F/82C " is wrong and should read 195... but I will let you know after I change my t-stat. Respectfully, Matt
Mar 7, 2003 - 18:05 - From: Grant
Title: Bills Upper Intercooler pipe
Message: Thanks Matt, for the info. No, Bill is no longer selling the pipe. I got my order in just under the wire and I believe they are all gone now. He is definitely not taking any more orders.
Mar 7, 2003 - 18:53 - From: Rod
Title: Bills Pipe - the connections
Message: I just took a couple of pictures, which say a thousand words : http://WWW.MARDIBLOKE.CO.UK/pics/billspipe/index.htm Depends which Dump valve you have, but worth doing the connection from dump valve to bills pipe if you have that option, else leave it blanked off on the pipe. Other connection can be t-piece into tube that goes to boost sensor ( red thing on left inner wing ), but better IMHO, is that there is a blanked off connection that Rob C spotted. You can just about see it in the last photo, and it will be obvious when you look for it.
Mar 7, 2003 - 19:36 - From: rudz
Title: cooling fans down
Message: i have checked the thermostat & that is not the problem. the fans have refused to turn on even when i ground the thermal switch. the fans themselves seem to function if i were to connect directly to a supply. the fans' fuses are also ok. i'm suspecting the fans' relay or the air-con pressure switch. any idea where the fans' relay is located ? anybody encountered a failed air-con pressure switch ? advice needed to resolve hot issue ! cheers ... rudz
Mar 8, 2003 - 05:51 - From: Laurence
Title: Extra air intake
Message: I had a thought for an extra air intake (if it would work - and I've not pulled the car apart to check) for front caliper cooling or an extra intercooler. You know where the front air filter fresh air intake is above the intercooler on the left side, well what about replicating the same thing on the right (oil cooler) side and then running a flexible air hose from inside the wheel arch liner to wherever it's needed? Perhaps folks who are familiar with that part of the car could comment? Laurence
Mar 8, 2003 - 06:05 - From: Laurence
Title: Alternative Rear Lights
Message: Further to the ideas of using the round Esprit or Elise type lights in a special mounting for the Elan. I'm not that familiar with these units but I was looking at some pics today and it seemed to me as though this units might not include rear red reflectors. It looked from the pics as though Esprits and Elises with these light units also had small separate reflectors. Right or wrong? Laurence
Mar 8, 2003 - 07:09 - From: Dave M.
Title: brake cooling
Message: Laurence, good idea on the ducting, however you'll want something that will pick up a fair amount of moving air. The stock air intake pickup is behind a small 2" x 2" cutout in the back of the headlight pod. I don't think you'd get enough air through there to notice a difference. Though if you willing to do some cutting that might not be a bad place to draw from. I've got the whole front end off my car and am trying to put something together that will fit the stock setup. Dave Schmidt also did some ducting and I think he may have just hung the opening of his down into the airstream under the car...probably the easiest way. In dreaming of upgrades for my wife's car I came across these. http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade/540_ducts.asp They would look neat on her car, though she'd never need them. I've thought of having a go with the Elan to see what I could make work. Worse case, I'd have to put them on the BMW! Darn... :)
Mar 8, 2003 - 07:33 - From: Paul
Title: Headlight replacements
Message: What do you get if you cross a kid with a football and my headlights ? yep you guessed it. I've just read the section on replacing the headlights and it quotes " Be joyful in the knowledge the Lotus chose commonly available and inexpensive standard round headlights." which pleased me. The question is, what are the commonly available replacements and where can I get them in the UK ? Cheers, Paul
Mar 8, 2003 - 08:32 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Message for Rudz
Message: From memory I think the fan relay is located behind the main instruments. Remove the cover above the instruments to access (two crosshead screws).
Mar 8, 2003 - 08:48 - From: Ryan
Title: RE: Mileage
Message: Thanks for the replies Peter and Michael, thought I would get swamped with replies on that but i guess not. Why then am i only barely getting 200 miles on a tank, on a good day?
Mar 8, 2003 - 10:18 - From: Dave M.
Title: gas mileage
Message: Ryan, could be a number of things...check your plugs, have you had the O2 sensor replaced recently?, CAS, or bad temp sensor for starters. ElanScan might help diagnose...you can view the a/f mixture under different operating conditions.
Mar 8, 2003 - 12:12 - From: Laurence
Title: Headlight replacements
Message: Paul, you can get them here http://www.cars.u-net.com/carsrallysporthomepage.htm but the correct European Cibie complex beam units are not cheap! The outer Dip beams are only dips which makes them quite unusual. If you go for standard Lucas (or Cibie) type dip/main units you will need to alter the connector and wiring (I think they can supply a plug in loom mod). Laurence
Mar 8, 2003 - 13:29 - From: Laurence
Title: brake cooling
Message: Dave, on my car, which does not have air con by the way, (looking into the left hand front grill with a strong light) there seems to be a 2" dia circular air intake in the top (extreme left) of the recess in front of the intercooler. I was assuming (hoping) that there must be a ram effect providing a good air supply to the filter. That's why I thought (assuming you can get to it) you might pick up a decent flow of air if you could do the same kind of thing on the other side of the car.
Mar 8, 2003 - 19:00 - From: Rod
Title: Donington 2003
Message: Pictures from today are here : http://www.mardibloke.co.uk/pics/don2003/index.htm sad to say rain and cold meant not much chance to chat with other owners, but nice to see so many Elans together.
Mar 9, 2003 - 07:56 - From: Geoff
Title: Fuel Consumption/Tyres
Message: Ryan, I only seem to get 200 miles to a tank also. I can't help feeling like I used to get more, so next service I'll ask them to check the mixture, etc. Also, has anyone ever has Michelin Pilot Sport tyres fitted to their car. I need new tyres, and these are supposed to be the replacement to my worn Michelin Pilot SX's. I have 15" wheels. I just want to make sure I am getting the right replacements. Many thanks, Geoff
Mar 9, 2003 - 14:20 - From: Ryan
Message: Thanks Geoff, About your tyres though, I just took the Pilot Sports off my Elan and onto my Golf and replaced them with Goodyear F1 - it corners like its on rails now and try as i might, i cant get the back end to step out like it did with the michelins.
Mar 9, 2003 - 19:36 - From: rudz
Title: cooling fans down
Message: thanx, allan, for the input. i have checked that area for the cooling fan fuses & they are ok. trouble is, if the cooling fans' relay is there, it is probably one of the many relays located in 2 rows. i will try to check all the relays there cos i don't have any other clue if the fans' relay is not one of them anyhow ! thanx for the advice, any more will be appreciated too ! cheers ... rudz
Mar 10, 2003 - 07:56 - From: Sean
Title: Stainless Steel Exhausts
Message: Nice one guys, spot on with the thermostat, changed it out and all is looking nice and rosy now. Had our first nice warm day here on Sunday and it was great fun driving the elan with the top off. Unfortunately experienced a minor mishap involving a speed bump and a great big hole in my exhaust system. :-( However all is not lost, I have been in contact with Janspeed in the UK who still have the Jig for the Elan SE Turbo and as such are more than happy to knock an exhaust up for me out of mild steel!!!!. Just as a side note here, if anyone else wants to get one made up (including you guys in the US) then I have a great contact there and although they don't ship to the states I can get it sent from work if you would like. Just drop me an E-mail if anyone is interested. :-) Sean
Mar 10, 2003 - 09:43 - From: rudz
Title: Online Electrical Manual
Message: Doug and Darren, thank you for the wonderful job with the Electrical Manual. It's been a great help while diagnosing electrical problems & I really appreciate it. I've actually seen thru the lot but I'm wondering if it actually ends on Appendix 3(pg 95). Somewhere in the manual it says that it should also have Appendix 4,5 and 6. Cheers .... Rudz
Mar 10, 2003 - 10:59 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Electrical Manual
Message: Rudz, I bought the actual electrical manual from Lotus and it does have 4 sections. Elan U.S., Elan Euro., Esprit U.S., Esprit Euro. I'm at work and it's at home, but perhaps that's what is being referred. Cheers, Matt
Mar 10, 2003 - 11:19 - From: Ed
Title: Fuel Consumption
Message: Ryan, Geoff are either of you getting any other symptoms? Bogging down on acceleration, smell of gas, or any signs of running overly rich? I'm curious in that I'm in the same boat at the moment. Only getting around 200 miles per tank, though I'll admit that is mostly city driving. However I know I'm running rich to the point that it bogs down under load if you give it too much gas too quickly. I'm still trying to determine what is causing it. All my sensor readings look good, at least to me, in ElanScan. I've got new plugs, wires, O2 sensor, and fuel pressure regulator. Looking at the fuel mixture in ElanScan, the only time it drops from 14.7:1 is when it's under high levels if boost at WOT. Need to recheck but I don't think it's dropped below around 11:1 even then.
Mar 10, 2003 - 14:23 - From: Kevin Down
Title: help with e.c.u
Message: I HAVE A ELAN S.E TURBO 1991 THE CAR WAS STOLEN.IGOT IT BACK RECENTLY BUT THE E.C.U HAD BEEN STOLEN.COULD ANY ONE TELL ME IF THE PART NO CHANGED FROM A 1990 CAR TO 1991 AND WOULD ANY ONE NO THE PART NO.
Mar 10, 2003 - 14:40 - From: Ryan
Message: Not had a chance yet to do the ElanScan. Not experiencing the other symptoms though but need to do the scan soon as i get it back from Lotus Dealer. Its back there after they made a mess of the service - cam belt change etc, but got it back with high idle revs and no airflow switch control plus low boost!
Mar 10, 2003 - 14:43 - From: Anon
Title: help with ecu
Message: What makes me think you are just going to nick it from the owner that removed that ECU as a security measure. A Hotmail address, not posted here before, all caps perhaps? If it had been stolen and recovered the insurance company would arrange the replacement so the answer is no. It would appear your little scam is foxed before you start. Sorry and all that. - Anon only for the purposes of this posting
Mar 10, 2003 - 14:58 - From: Alan
Title: Fuel consumption
Message: If you have an SE the check the CO potentiometer voltage. The air fuel ratio is predicated on a properly calibrated CO pot. The nominal value is 2V - if the car is still rich at 2V, and there is no other fault, then the CO pot. needs adjustment. My own fuel economy is not great (about 260 miles a tank) but it 200 miles when I got the car. Two things helped, a adjustment to the CO pot (done by a man with a Tech 1). and an exhaust with a bit less of a squash in it! The latter probably had the greater effect. Ed, Don't treat the air fuel ratio as a diagnostic tool - its a target value not a measured one - check the oxygen sensor value is averaging around 2V.
Mar 10, 2003 - 15:40 - From: Rob B
Title: Fuel consumption
Message: I to only get around 180 miles to a tank, the car is used by the better half in the week to travel into work, 6 miles heavy traffic. Then it is used at the weekend for fun etc. Not yet got the ElanScan setup so no help there, mine is an S2 with 51K on the clock so no Co2 pot. Rob
Mar 10, 2003 - 19:19 - From: Sean
Title: Thermostat and MPG
Message: Since changing my thermostat out on your advice I have seen a definite improvement in the Mileage I have been getting from the car, it seems to come out of "cold" mode much faster, the exhaust gas quickly clears and the throttle response and idle all seem MUCH better. If you chaps are suffering from a similar temp problem perhaps your thermostat could also be at fault, or failing that perhaps the temperature sender could be faulty, ElanScan should help you diagnose that, I'm easily getting an additional 50 miles to the tank since the replacement thermostat though, so worth a look!
Mar 10, 2003 - 20:40 - From: Doug
Title: rough running
Message: Sean, sounds like you got it fixed up! Ed, sounds like you are still not finding the problem. I remember you have done a pretty logical and thorough investigation and have even checked ElanScan for problems. I remember you have a turbo upgrade with EBC but otherwise are using stock sensors and ECU. The thing I wanted to say is that it sounds like it could be the CAS acting up--I can't remember if you changed it but I hope not yet. I had a nagging little problem and I used ElanScan to investigate--it confirmed that nothing else was to blame and ruled out the obvious offenders, and from the symptoms I therefore "guessed" it must be the CAS--replaced it and all is great since. The point is that even with normal ElanScan the CAS could be acting up. I cannot think of anything else reasonable to check other than real weird things like piston ring seals, a bunk injector or other far out problems--but then you don't have clear symptoms of these either. Might be worth getting a new CAS to see? Anyone else have ideas?
Mar 10, 2003 - 22:39 - From: Don Ferario
Title: which thermostat?
Message: Keith: Is there a particular brand and part number of 195 degree thermostat you used? I haven't been able to locate one. I've wanted a higher temp for years. I always noticed that when the Elan sits for a couple minutes, and the temp exceeds the thermostat opening (which it can't do, going down the road), when I take off it feels like it has more power.
Mar 11, 2003 - 01:23 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Proportioning Valves cont. / Breaking
Message: Hi all. I've done some driving the last few days and I'm back to comment as promised. So, after a second bleeding, 100 Kms from the proportioning valves' changing, the feeling of the pedal is great! The breaking is also great and you feel like you throw an anchor! I remind you that I have changed the breaks to EBC disks/greenstuff (front) and just black pads (rear) and Goodridge braided hoses. But there IS a disadvantage, comparing to the last set I had - just some drilled and grooved disks and greenstuff pads : On continuous hard breaking (when on track day) the breaks seem to get hot and tired, and the feeling AND performance gets much worse, something that NEVER appeared with the last set. This is quite strange, because everything seems to be enhanced!!!
Mar 11, 2003 - 02:18 - From: Bill Sun
Title: Headlights upgrade
Message: I just replaced my low beam with the Hella H4 conversion kit and the high beam with the Hella H1 kit. It was a lot of work just to take out all of the old lights and replacing them with the new set up. The end result is worth the effort. The lights now shine bright and clear just like the HID headlight.
Mar 11, 2003 - 09:12 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: It doesn't hurt to ask...
Message: I think someone already did this, but I inquired with Quaife yesterday about LSDs as our (Isuzu) application was still listed on their site. Here was his answer: "Matthew, we made a batch several years ago for a company in the States but do not have any left. We will only make some more if we get sufficient orders for another batch (25 -30). Applications are Isuzu Impulse FWD/AWD, Piazza FWD, Elan SE Turbo M100." And there you have it LSD fans!
Mar 11, 2003 - 10:06 - From: Laurence
Title: Electrical manual
Message: Does anyone have the Appendix with the wiring diagrams for the S2 model? I would really appreciate a copy, I have everything else but these and now I have an S2 car. Laurence
Mar 11, 2003 - 10:38 - From: Ed
Title: Various replies...
Message: Doug, I've done the resoldering of the hall effect sensor thing but I've not completely replaced the CAS. I am also starting to think along the lines of leaking injectors or possibly an ailing fuel pump. I've been thinking about getting a fuel pressure gauge to install as it would help with making a determination on the pump and wouldn't be a bad thing to have if I ever go the route of trying to push the thing to the ultimate usefulness of the turbo the first owner dropped in. I also find Sean's comments interesting as I know I am running a 180/82 degree thermostat. I put it in as the old one froze open shortly after I got the car. I doubt I checked mileage before then as I was mostly using it for fun runs and autocross. Alan, thanks for the mixture info, I wondered if it was just an ECU target value I didn't think there was any sensor beyond the O2 sensor to pick that up. Also, does the US SE have a CO pot? I didn't think ours did. If so where would I find it? I think that about covers it...
Mar 11, 2003 - 10:51 - From: Warren
Title: Hi & upgrades
Message: Hi, It seems there are a lot of happy any very keen Elan owners here. I have had my 1990 Elan SE now for 3 years and love it to pieces. Recently I have considered giving it a second lease of life with some upgrades. I have spent too much time reading various websites recently. This is what I think I can conclude: Pls comment. The plugs leads and filters all seem simple. However if i go for the fully mapped unichip with boaster do I still require the dump value. Illustrated on Philbo's site? Replacing my ageing exhaust with a complete stainless steel system seems logical, any ideas on the best source (performance and value? There is a stainless steel system at SJ sports (site) for about £200 and I have been quoted £424 (including fitting and Vat) for a custom stainless steel system with a promised 8-12 bhp. Brakes will require performance front discs and pads (road use only). Will the above a) be safe to drive? b) deliver 200+ bhp in a non stressful way to engine? I am already guessing it will be even more fun. I am based in Berkshire so localish suppliers would be helpful. Warren
Mar 11, 2003 - 12:44 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Don Ferrario, 195 thermostat
Message: ...is Stant number 59859
Mar 11, 2003 - 12:47 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Ed, CO potentiometer
Message: U.S. spec cars do not have this part. It is all controlled electronically.
Mar 11, 2003 - 13:41 - From: keith g
Message: I'm sure that p/n is good, but I just went to the local parts store and they list two for the 91 impulse turbo, I bought both, change back from a 10..... I think the 180 keeps it too cool, right on the edge of cold for the management system, high idles, rich running etc. Again, I will see what it acts like in the warm weather.
Mar 11, 2003 - 14:01 - From: Philbo
Message: Warren, yes plugs leads and filters all simple, as is installing a dump valve, which is almost recommended regardless of state of engine tune as it saves wear and tear on the turbo. A new exhaust will only give you extra bhp if it is less restrictive than the stock system (not hard), but it is mandatory to release all of the stock Elan's potential. Finally hold fire on the Unichip...there are some issues fitting these to the Elan as they are designed to work from standard crank signals which the Elan doesn't provide! However today I spoke to my people and they are going to go ahead and fit it to my car by basically working out how to make it all work...we've both given up on waiting for Dastek (who make the Unichip) to provide us with the technical info we need. The new schedule for this is now sometime in April.
Mar 11, 2003 - 14:10 - From: Alan
Title: CO potentiometer & economy
Message: Ed, S2s and US spec cars don't have a CO pot - they operate mostly in closed loop mode where the oxygen sensor reading is used to modify the mixture to the optimum. When you boot it and the mixture goes rich and open loop mode kicks in - I don't know how you would alter the mixture in open loop mode in a catalyst equipped car or even if its possible. If you have a leaking fuel injector then one cylinder would run lean and knock would occur - do you see much activity in the knock counter? If the fuel pump has low pressure you might see a higher injector pulse width than a unaffected car - hard to compare directly, I know, but worth checking for obvious differences. I reckon Doug might be onto something with the CAS - I had minor CAS problems (not enough to put the check light on) that caused hesitation - particularly at mid revs and high throttle as well as very occasional cutting out at idle. I fixed it with torquemaster plugs but it was treating the symptoms not the disease - I did get the check light in the end. Also have you checked the timing?
Mar 11, 2003 - 15:22 - From: jay thomas
Title: front wheel bearings
Message: has anyone had the pleasure of replacing the front wheel bearings yet, also i've found a nice new idle problem which makes the engine rev to around 3k for about 30 seconds then lowers to around 1200 afterwards when starting from cold. the engine also holds its revs for around 2 seconds when changing gears! strange one i know but any ideas would be much appreciated cheers jay...
Mar 11, 2003 - 17:15 - From: Sean
Title: Rev problems
Message: Jay, this is exactly what mine was doing before I changed the thermostat, I think it was due more to the fact that my temp sender was probably not working properly too, I gave it a nice clean up before it went back on, so check both of those especially if your temp gauge seems particularly low
Mar 11, 2003 - 17:23 - From: Sean
Message: Warren, If you read my earlier post on exhausts I have recently been in touch with Janspeed (a company that made a stainless steel exhaust for the Elan SE Turbo that I have heard nothing but good things about) and they have confirmed that they still have the Jig for this exhaust and are building me one as we speak (delivery is expected in about 8 days now) they say they can make as many as they get orders for too and for this service they are charging me a fairly reasonable £300 including delivery! I'm planning to fit it next weekend and will be using ElanScan to get some performance figures from it, so if you can wait till then that might be a good option for you.
Mar 11, 2003 - 17:33 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: oil caps?
Message: Does anyone know which car manufacturer's oil cap will fit our car? For instance, a Miata cap fits my Mercury XR2 like a champ, but is WAY too big for the Isuzu motor. Honda, Mitsu, & Nissan seem to be the 3 most prevalent replacement caps available. Will any of those fit?
Mar 12, 2003 - 04:25 - From: Warren
Message: Thank you Philbo & Sean, I will wait to hear about the unichip and the Janspeed exhaust. When I fit the dump valve do I also need to remove the boast limiter? If so how is this done? Thanks
Mar 12, 2003 - 05:45 - From: Philbo
Title: Dump valves
Message: Hi Warren, the dump valve is an independent item so you do not have to worry about installing boost limiter options at the same time. Your options there are the typical MBC as described on this site, or some more sophisticated cheap electronics which will fool the ECU into allowing more boost.
Mar 12, 2003 - 07:09 - From: stephen
Message: hello folks, I've worked out what happened to my lights. they shattered because after changing the bulbs the other week i (stupidly) tightened up all the screws surrounding the lamps including the sprung loaded ones for adjusting the beam angles. this has left the lamps rigid in the pods and when i hit the pot hole the sudden jolt has smashed them. i think ? the headlights that i bought at donny were federal(lhd) but at £6 a pair they got me home (worth it for the bulbs alone). this still leaves the problem needing headlamps that work and will pass an m.o.t. it's the outer dipped beam lenses that have shattered and chris neil want £140 quid for a pair. are the lamps interchangeable with any other cars or can they be upgraded (coz there not that bright) and how much for? p.s nice to meet so many nice folk at donny, there was a helpful exchange of info and experience and i will be back next year. cheers, stephen.
Mar 12, 2003 - 08:41 - From: Ian
Message: I have one replacement UK headlamp unit I can sell you... I bought it rather unnecessarily some years ago for an obscene amount of money (about £80 as I recall - would take 40 or so). But from the sounds of things you need two of them. You can also get them for about £52.50+VAT from SJ Sportcars it seems (http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk) which is a little bit less than you are being quoted.
Mar 12, 2003 - 10:37 - From: Ed
Title: Alan, Matt, Doug...
Message: The timing is dead on, reset that after doing the resolder thing on the hall effect sensor. I was sure I didn't have the CO pot but figured a sanity check at this point wouldn't hurt. I may go ahead and order a CAS just to give it a try. Anecdotal evidence gives that as high a likelihood as anything else at the moment. And given the history of the CAS for the Isuzu engine in general, if it's not the cause, having and extra on hand wouldn't be a bad thing either...
Mar 12, 2003 - 11:27 - From: Laurence
Title: Headlight units
Message: Stephen, you can get them from http://www.cars.u-net.com/carsrallysporthomepage.htm but the correct European 5 3/4" H1 Cibie complex beam units are not cheap! £50 to £60 inc VAT The outer Dip beams are only dips which makes them quite unusual. If you go for standard Lucas (or Cibie) H4 type dip/main units you will need to alter the connector and wiring (I think they can supply a plug in loom mod). Laurence
Mar 12, 2003 - 19:04 - From: James
Title: Sticky Boost Gauge
Message: Any one experienced a boost gauge that refuses to return to zero? Regardless of my efforts to dislodge it my thumping on the top of the dash, my gauge continues to dify the laws of gravity and stays at .25 bar or just under. It does however rise ok when the boost level increases, although it has hit 1bar a few times on hard acceleration (mbc currently on minimum). Am I to assume that the gauge is at fault or the sender unit?
Mar 12, 2003 - 20:38 - From: Ben
Title: Magnecor cables
Message: Hi everyone. I'm planning to re-new my spark plug cables with some Magnecor cables. I've looked through the service manual but haven't been able to find the length of each cable. Can anyone help with this? I'm also planning to replace the spark plugs with the recommended NGK BKR6E (part#6962) Has anyone found any other plugs to be better than these? Thanks
Mar 12, 2003 - 22:30 - From: Dave M.
Message: The stock cable lengths are: 32", 28", 26", 22 1/2"
Mar 12, 2003 - 22:32 - From: Dave M.
Message: Sounds like a loose ground connection on your boost gauge issue. Try tightening and/or cleaning all connections around the boost transducer (the rust-colored unit in the left side of the engine bay).
Mar 12, 2003 - 22:36 - From: Dave M.
Title: SJS (GAZ) coilovers
Message: If anyone is curious about the adjustable suspension pieces SJS is selling, I've posted some pics over at Isuzone. Looks like a minimum of a 1-1 1/4" drop with further adjustable ride height and compression/rebound adjustment. They appear to be very nice pieces. I'll have a drive in another month or so and report. See @ http://www.kipanderson.net/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Suspension;action=display;num=1047525446;start=0
Mar 12, 2003 - 23:38 - From: Steve
Title: Hood Lid Holder
Message: Anyone see 5th Gear (UK) tonight ? The new Street Ka has the same manual roof type as the Elan and it seems to have a gas strut or similar to hold the hood lid up while you get the soft top out. Anyone know how you could do this ? i'm sure i saw a picture of something similar on an Elan once ?
Mar 13, 2003 - 03:41 - From: steven
Title: sticky boost gauge
Message: James, mine does the same from time to time. Take off the little hose that runs from the top of the inlet manifold to the boost transducer and put it back on again. Steven
Mar 13, 2003 - 12:25 - From: James
Title: sticky boost gauge
Message: Steven, What does the removal of the tube actually do ? Is there some kind of vacuum pressure stored in the circuit that needs to be released? Are you not fed up with having to do this?
Mar 13, 2003 - 13:32 - From: adam
Title: esprit tail lights
Message: can anyone provide me with the link to the pictures of the elan with the esprit tail lights? cheers (i thought the message was in the february archives but the link seems to be down)
Mar 13, 2003 - 16:14 - From: Matthew Welsh
Message: Hi all. Yesterday I got some great pictures of my newly Jet-Hotted exhaust-system. Tomorrow I will E-mail them off to the normal lot of you. If you wish to be added/removed from this "pictures of what I did to my Elan now" club please let me know by E-mailing me. Cheers to all, Matt (p.s. the E-mail server goes down at 5:30PM EST and back up at 7:30AM EST to guard against hackers, whom had become a real bother!)
Mar 13, 2003 - 19:50 - From: Harry(Viking motorsports0
Title: Elan parts
Message: Hi Guys. WE are in the process of parting out a 91 Elan and all the parts are available except the following. Front bumper, front clamshell, radiator, Condenser, oil cooler and pipes. All other parts are available at this time. I am also in the process of obtaining the front brake upgrade kits. We can also fit limited slip diffs to your car if you provide the diff. Talk to Jacob Caldwell for info on the diffs. Regards to all. Harry
Mar 13, 2003 - 23:07 - From: Tony V
Title: Elan Parts...
Message: VikingMS...I tried emailing you but your address kept bouncing..I am looking for the left front "top shelf" for an M100 US spec car. Lotus Part # is A100B1251S This the front nose and left front. I dont know where you are located... email me off list firstname.lastname@example.org
Mar 13, 2003 - 23:19 - From: Doug
Message: Harry typo-ed his email, Tony. Here is his info: http://www.vikingmotorsports.com/ email: email@example.com Viking Motorsports Inc Phone: 714-979-1020 Fax: 714-979-1090 3019 Enterprise St. Costa Mesa CA. 92626
Mar 13, 2003 - 23:39 - From: Mark
Message: My tires are wearing thin, and with track season coming up, need to replace them. Currently running on Dunlop SP9000s which I like a lot for everyday driving - good grip, quiet, decent ride. However, I'd like something stickier for the track which will also drive ok on the road. I've heard mixed things about Kumho. what are others using for track days?
Mar 14, 2003 - 04:17 - From: Jon B
Message: Is there anyone out there who has experimented with different sparkplugs? I'm currently running an S2 with a MBC with just a moderate increase in boost (gauge measures 0.7'ish on max). I am experiencing hesitation under higher boost conditions. I have tried reducing spark plug gap on existing NGK plugs which marginally improved under boost but engine ran less smooth at lower town speeds. A local garage to me sells Splitfire plugs but has warned that these can overheat and cut out in turbo cars. With the price of a set of these platinum plugs at around £40, it's a bit much to spend on the off-chance that it may work!
Mar 14, 2003 - 05:18 - From: Sean
Title: The S2 and hesitancy under boost
Message: Jon, One of the guys I met in the club last weekend was telling me about the exact same problem that he had with his S2, he told me that once he changed exhausts it sorted the problem out totally, I'm not sure what plug set up he was running but he seemed to think that the problem was due to flow restriction of the exhaust rather than a lack of fuel or a spark problem, in fact on his recommendation I have ordered the same system as what he had and am very much looking forward to getting it. Perhaps this could be your problem too?
Mar 14, 2003 - 05:28 - From: Jon B
Message: Thanks for that Sean. I hadn't thought about the exhaust. The exhaust is a notorious bottleneck, particularly in the S2. The hesitation is not all the way up the rev range which you would expect if it was the exhaust. Over 5000 rpm it seems to clear and runs fine. Very confusing!
Mar 14, 2003 - 07:31 - From: Dave M.
Title: track tires
Message: I have only good things to say about the Kumho V700s. Qualification: they are an autocross tire and will give you a short life. The difference in grip from a street tire is amazing. I have had them in the wet (150 miles of highway), and though I never pushed them, they never seemed to be having grip issues. If you want something with a bit longer life, the Falken Azenis has received lots of kudos as well.
Mar 14, 2003 - 09:31 - From: James
Title: Jon B : hesitancy under boost
Message: Jon, I get exactly the same thing in my s1. My boost gauge reaches about .75 on the gauge and I get a hesitation. Its more noticeable on the motorway, accelerating from 80/90 onwards. Acceleration in low gears is fine, especially as you tend to change up. I've tried reducing the boost level and playing with the ignition timing which appears to help a bit. I was thinking it was to do with not running a rich fuel mix. Let me know if the exhaust fixes the problem.
Mar 14, 2003 - 09:46 - From: Jon B
Message: James, It appears that this is more common than I first thought - which in a way is quite reassuring for me!! Mine is the same as yours. OK through the gears but at higher speeds in 4th or 5th it is quite noticeable. At the moment I don't feel confident about fiddling about with the timing but I have an adaptor on order so I can link my laptop to the ecu via ElanScan. Hopefully the readings from this will shed some light. Jon
Mar 14, 2003 - 10:37 - From: Grant
Title: New Orleans
Message: Are there any Elan owners in the New Orleans, LA area? I will be down there in May. I don't see too many other Elans up here in Minnesota. So if any one in the area is interested in meeting up let me know. Grant
Mar 14, 2003 - 10:53 - From: Andrew
Title: hesitancy under boost
Message: Guys, mine does this too, so it is obviously a common thing. I have the BBR kit and sports exhaust, I actually assumed that it was caused by the BBR but maybe not ....
Mar 14, 2003 - 10:58 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: missing at over 1.2 bar plus nitrous
Message: After endlessly dickering around with spark plug gaps, different plugs (NGK, Autolite Rapidfire) the problem was forever solved by switching to Torque-Master plugs. Pricey but effective and proven to work at higher pressures than probably any of you are currently running. The cost was $60-USD If you order, talk to them (in California) directly. They will ask questions to determine the proper heat range plug for you.
Mar 14, 2003 - 13:02 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: Steering Wheel upgrade
Message: Hi, I was checking out the steering wheel write up, and I think I have it figured out pretty well. However, I just wondered, is the weird turn signal cancel/gear assembly still somewhat visible with an aftermarket wheel in place? It looks like the outer edges of it will be... Thanks, Joshua Lawrence
Mar 14, 2003 - 13:57 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: UNTESTED way to increase spark...
Mar 14, 2003 - 14:08 - From: Scott
Title: Hood seal mods
Message: To all of you that requested pictures to illustrate my mods to the windscreen hood seal, you can now see them at http://www.lotuselancentral.com/seals.htm. Thanks for the effort, Doug. -Scott
Mar 15, 2003 - 01:45 - From: Doug
Message: One thing to add is consider the condition of your ignition WIRES! They could be up to 13 years old and have fired more than one billion times if you have never changed them. You change your oil, your tires, your other fluids, even your wipers; why not renew your wires too?! Also not impossible to be a CAS gremlin--mine started similar to your descriptions. . .
Mar 15, 2003 - 07:29 - From: Dave M.
Title: steering wheel
Message: The cancel mechanism and some of the internals are slightly visible since the hub adapter I used does not slide down the steering shaft enough to be near-flush with the steering box. This allows you to see a gap. Eventually I'll make something to attach to the hub adapter to close up this gap (because it would look nicer), but this is so far down my Elan "to do" list I can hardly see it. ;)
Mar 15, 2003 - 10:35 - From: stephen
Message: alright folks, for all those who met me at donny on sat you would have seen my damaged hood. 2 nights before the show some thieving monkey ba@&%#d tryed to steal my motor. they ripped the stitching where the hood meets the frame from the top of the drivers door to the clam shell. what im looking for is advice on whether i should claim my insurance or try to source a new or used one. how much would it cost? can it be fixed? if so where and how much? as a fairly competent mechanic can i fit a hood my self? cheers, stephen.
Mar 15, 2003 - 11:15 - From: James
Message: Doug, I've just put magnecors on so I think we can rule that one out. So, what's the deal with the cas? How long does it continue before sending an error message? The cars done 60K so I guess it may be worth considering.
Mar 15, 2003 - 12:24 - From: Gary
Title: Wind Break
Message: At Donington I saw an Elan with a windbreak installed behind the seats. I think it was from an MX5. Is this effective ? If so does anyone have the part number, UK cost and fitting instructions ?
Mar 15, 2003 - 16:37 - From: Harps
Title: Pod Lights Relay??
Message: Hello all, I have had me Elan SE Turbo for three months and I am having a problem with the Pod Lights functioning as normally; basically the pod lights come up as expected but do not go down. Also the main beam lights are also not working, So making driving at night impossible unless I frig the pods to be half up and drive around with my flashers on. I have checked all fuses (Left hand passenger floor bin) which seem to be fine and fuses by battery which are also fine. I have resorted to disconnecting a connection which leads to the pod motors on the bulk head and wind pods down manually. Where would I find the Relay for this?, Any Ideas? Cheers H.
Mar 15, 2003 - 20:54 - From: Bill Sun
Title: Steering wheel
Message: Dave M, I also installed a Momo Sport 350 steering wheel on my Esprit S4S and had the same gap problem between my hub and column. I cut out a piece of black foam from a flat piece of air conditioner filters that I bought from Home Depot (hardware store), and I cut a piece with a hole in the middle (almost doughnut like shape with a large center hole) to fill the empty spot. It looks original and quite nice, and it was very inexpensive to do (about $1-$2 for the flat piece of foam).
Mar 16, 2003 - 03:30 - From: Doug
Message: Just got my order from SJS! Plan to fit the new adjustable struts soon. Any one who has them or otherwise have any recommendations on setting them up? I may drop the car 1-2cm ride height max but wonder what to set the rebound damping on? There are 36 positions on the dial! I guess starting in the middle would make sense? Should I set the fronts stiffer a touch since the front carries 66% of the car's weight?
Mar 16, 2003 - 05:06 - From: Sean
Title: S2 Alloys
Message: Guys, Is it possible to fit the Elan S2 Alloys to the SE? And if so are there any major disadvantages in doing so, I know that lotus made some changes to the chassis from SE to S2 to accommodate the larger wheels. Cheers, Sean
Mar 16, 2003 - 05:16 - From: Laurence
Message: Gary, if it was Pacific Blue that was probably Rod's car you need to look at Rod's site www.mardibloke.co.uk It's the Oris Windstop for the MX5. I got mine from www.moss-shop.co.uk it works well with the windows up you only get a small amount of draft, but it means you can wear a base ball cap without fear of it blowing away at speed! My tip's; you can actually mount the fixings with self tapping screws if you make suitable small holes with a drill first (and drill new corresponding smaller holes in the mounting fixings). You must put the mountings at exactly the same height as Rod did just above the carpet then the screws will go through the fibre glass wall and into the edge of the (metal)B post cross brace. I used longer bolts than rod so mine are mounted at the ends of the straight length of plastic trim. I also cut down and re-drilled the mounting flange on the prongs that attach to the Windstop and the plastic mounting flanges on the Windstop so as not to limit the rear seat back travel too much (the need for this depends how far back you like to lean the seat back for driving). Laurence
Mar 16, 2003 - 11:36 - From: Rob B
Message: Gary, I was at Donington (Azure Blue S2), with windstop. I bought mine from an MX5 parts shop by me, £144, well worth the money as the misses can now ride shotgun without the aid of a hat to stop her hair from whipping her face (I don't have that problem). I fitted mine just below the plastic on the carpet, using the two screws provided and the two platerboard fixings to secure the other part of the bracket. It took 15 min from start to finish to fit, well worth the money imho.
Mar 16, 2003 - 14:28 - From: Daz
Title: S2 Alloys
Message: Sean, I'm no authority on the issue of upgrades, but I asked the same question about S2 wheels on SE's, here some months ago and was told 'no problem ' ... I have since fitted some S2 wheels with good rubber , and although the steering felt different at first ( extra grip from better tyres I think !!) there appears to be no other effects (other than the car looks much better). Obviously the rolling dia.of the wheel/tyre remains the same with the 16" by using 45. series tyres. I would be interested to know myself if anyone has experienced problems.
Mar 16, 2003 - 20:22 - From: Steve
Title: kia elan on ebay
Message: David Clement has posted on british cars this for sale on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2407404973&category=18308 is it me or are those rear clusters nice ? and i wonder if it will fit the elan and can we get them ?
Mar 17, 2003 - 00:43 - From: Doug
Title: Kia tail lights
Message: Steve, I know Andy Yim got a pair from Korea about 2 years ago but I don't remember if he installed them, though I assume he did. They should fit right in if you could get some. Best bet is go to Korea or have connections there.
Mar 17, 2003 - 02:06 - From: Doug
Title: Elan Engine Management Manual
Message: this should help out a lot of the recent questions: http://www.our-community.net/lotus/
Mar 17, 2003 - 08:27 - From: Laurence
Title: Kia rear lights
Message: Julian (from the UK) just looked into this. May be OK for other markets but not ideal in the UK. The number plate surround would also need to be changed plus there are apparently no reversing lights or rear fog lights in the Kia clusters. Laurence
Mar 17, 2003 - 11:11 - From: Grant
Title: Kia Cluster
Message: I agree, if there is anything to be said about the Kia, it does have a much more current looking rear light cluster. p.s. I installed Bills Upper Intercooler pipe this weekend. It was a piece of cake to install and fit perfectly. I haven't pushed her to the limit yet but I did notice a much more pronounced sound from the wastegate during shifts. Very cool.
Mar 17, 2003 - 12:32 - From: Ryan
Title: buckled wheel
Message: Thanks to everyone for the past information. previous problem regarding airflow switch, engine revs and low boost were all down to a collapsed vacuum pipe which someone kindly suggested. I now have a buckled rim that is causing the car to vibrate at all speeds! If anyone has a spare 15" elan SE turbo rim, not sure if there are different ones but it is OZ, please let me know. thanks
Mar 17, 2003 - 15:25 - From: Ian West
Title: MBC Possible Boost Spikes/Creep
Message: Hello everybody, Have owned my Elan SE for 6 Years now and have been a regular reader of this site. But have never posted anything. My Elan until recently was standard factory form, but have now installed a 2.5" Bore Stainless steel straight through exhaust and just built the MBC as described on this site. My problem is after changing into second gear and accelerating flat out the boost gauge seems at first to register 0.75 bar hesitates jumps to 0.8 bar hesitates then hits the cut off limit. Seems all right though accelerating hard in first gear (just goes upto 0.75 bar). I read on this site that the hosing to the MBC must be kept as short as possible. This I have done one side of the valve about 3 inches (to the turbo) the other side of the valve about 10" (to the wastegate). Should these lengths be equal or does it not matter. Also I assume I've disconnected the BSV by just pulling out the electric plug is this so or do I have to do something else. Hope someone can help as I love the extra power.
Mar 17, 2003 - 17:36 - From: rod
Title: Buckled Wheel
Message: Ryan, Great news you found the vacuum pipe problem. Your wheels are the standard 15" OZ ones fitted to the car when new. The do buckle quite easily as they are rather light ( hence keeping unsprung weight down and making the car handle so well ). You can try and find a wheel, but to be honest most 10 year + 15" wheels will need checking out anyway. You could go for a set of USA 16" wheels ( Federal ) as these are pretty light too, but you would need a set of four plus new tyres. Or you could pop a set of 16" S2 alloys on, which look much more modern, again you would need a set of four plus tyres. These wheels are stronger but hence heavier, and recommendation is to change to S2 suspension set up = £££ http://www.thelotuscentre.com/ can help you out with all three options, as they trade in old 15" for federal and S2 wheels. Oh, guess you could just get non-Lotus afterfit wheels, but note that the Elan has a larger than normal offset, so if you want to maintain the ride and handling you need to choose with care. My approach was to just get my wheels mended and refurbished. I was very pleased with the results, and I recommend this place, just as a happy customer ( think it was £200 to get four wheels done and they look like new, and no buckles ). http://www.alloywheelrepair.co.uk/contactlocateus.htm Hope that helps.
Mar 17, 2003 - 17:44 - From: Rod
Title: Boost stuff
Message: Ian, am not sure what instructions you have followed, but 10" sounds rather a lot. Initially I had an MBC spliced into the VERY short pipe just under the turbo, picture of that pipe here : http://www.mardibloke.co.uk/pics/robc_BBR/DSCN0010.JPG I then changed and put a valve in the place of the BSV, pictures and words here : http://www.mardibloke.co.uk/Cars/Lotus_Elan_M100/Upgrades/Rob-C_Boost_Controller/rob-c_boost_controller.html and here : http://www.mardibloke.co.uk/pics/robc_BBR/dcmalbum.htm I know Doug's write ups are sound and have worked for me and many others too. But suggest you check the write up and perhaps tell us more about how you have installed.
Mar 17, 2003 - 17:55 - From: Rod
Title: S2 Wheelies
Message: Just noticed some other posts about S2 wheels, note that if you change from SE 15" wheels to 16" S2 wheels you need a new set of wheel bolts - so my dealer claimed, for the full 16 it was not a trivial amount of money too ! Could anyone with S2 wheels on an SE confirm / deny ?
Mar 17, 2003 - 18:47 - From: Bryan
Title: New Elan Owner
Message: Hey there, I am a new Elan owner and I have a couple questions for other Elan owners. First of all, I am looking for a set of floor mats and the center cap logos for all 4 wheels. The car has roughly 17,000 miles on it and is in wonderful condition with a couple of exceptions. 1) I have the infamous window problem with the passenger side window. It will raise half way and then you have to pull on the back of the window and it will raise the rest of the way. Also, the right sided front shock squeaks, will need to replace both of them. Any shocks out there that you guys can recommend, and would you go ahead and fix the window before it breaks? Thanks, Bryan
Mar 17, 2003 - 20:48 - From: Mars
Title: Service Manual Download
Message: I am having problems downloading the service manual from this site (http://www.our-community.net/lotus/). I can download the electrical & management manuals OK, but this one keeps bombing out for some reason. Any tips?
Mar 18, 2003 - 01:28 - From: Marie
Title: Kia tail lights
Message: Something about them just weirds me out. they don't seem to flow with the car and to me look rather bug-like. Just my opinion though.
Mar 18, 2003 - 03:29 - From: Ian West
Title: Boost Stuff
Message: Thanks for replying Rod. MBC was made using brass branch T, air vent screwed into top of branch and pipe nipples screwed into branch to receive new 1/4 inch hose. All connections to valve, turbo & wastegate jubilee clipped tight. It looks very similar to Scott's MBC example shown on this site. I think though the valve might be leaking a bit of pressure (still goes over 0.4Bar with the valve closed) Going to put some PFTE tape over the threads to seal them can only think this is where it's leaking!! If this doesn't work going to buy your valve and install as you have shown. The location up by the BSV seems a better place than right by the turbo anyway. Thanks again for your help.
Mar 18, 2003 - 03:55 - From: ryan
Title: Floor mats
Message: Hi Bryan, I too am new to the Elan, similar issues just been sorted. Just got the passenger window done, they changed the motor and the clips and the company i bought it from picked up the bill (cant recommend ADAMSONS SPORTS CARS enough - they have been fantastic). Also got a set of floor mats yesterday at the same time from lotus. They had to order them in as i did not like the colour match of their copied ones. The original lotus ones looked black when i first got them but as they got into the light the colour seems to match up to the grey trim in the car - weird. BTW £39.99 for the lotus mats.
Mar 18, 2003 - 05:01 - From: stephen
Title: hello bryan
Message: hello bryan, I've had my se 6 months now and my pas-window has just broken, I'm in the process of fixing it now. check the write up on this site for info on how to sort it. as for the centre caps they are like hens teeth, i got some at the Donington show the other week but they were for another car (thanks chris neil). the logo was the same size but the cap was different, I've modded them to fit the old caps. stephen.
Mar 18, 2003 - 05:15 - From: Dimitris GR
Message: Hi guys. I lately read about this hesitation under overboost after changing to 2.5" exhaust. Some say that this is due to cables' failure. Well, I kinda disagree. I think that when we alter the exhaust from 2" to 2.5", we let the gases flow more than before, thus allowing the turbo spin more. So the boost increases. This is the point where the electronic cut occurs. It seems quite logical to me. I also changed to a 2.5" downpipe a couple of days ago (I changed the catalytic converter 10 days ago) and experienced the same problem, but when I reduced the boost everything went back to normal except the torque that seems to grown up quite a lot. Anyway, I'll visit the service garage to let the mechs set the overboost to 0.9, with the Tech-1. :)
Mar 18, 2003 - 05:19 - From: Dimitris GR
Message: Last month I wrote about some curious problems with the cooling fans system. I solved the problem. It was a CTS failure. I changed it to a Honda (!!!!!!) and it works more than fine. It works between about 96-98 to 90-92. Wonderful!!! Just visit a Jap cars electric store and ask for a CTS, showing yours...
Mar 18, 2003 - 06:53 - From: Laurence
Title: S2 Wheel bolts
Message: THe S2 BBS bolts seem to have exactly the same size thread, base flange and bevel but the bolt head is a reduced size across the flats. If you fitted SE wheel nuts into S2 wheels there would probably not be enough room for the standard SE wheel brace to fit over the bolts. It's possible a socket might just fit but I've never tried this and don't have any SE wheel bolts anymore to test it out. Laurence
Mar 18, 2003 - 07:03 - From: Dave M.
Title: boost creep
Message: Ian, sounds like your car is overboosting due to boost creep. It has been an issue for a number of folks here who have replaced exhausts, and I am not totally sure what they did to fix it. I had some creep after installing the MBC on a stock exhaust in 3rd/4th gear roll-ons of power which was only solved by decreasing boost through the MBC a touch. Another option is to fashion a fuel cut adjuster (or see below) that raises the limit of boost it takes to trip the overboost protection. I wouldn't do this however without a) a different boost gauge, b) an air/fuel meter, and/or c) an EGT gauge. Too many things can go wrong unless you monitor what's happening and correct problems. As for hose length to/from the MBC: a few inches one way or another should make absolutely no difference. I don't think you have any leaks, either. 0.4 bar is ~ the stock sensitivity for the wastegate actuator. It sounds as if it is working properly. One last: Dimitris. How exactly is the garage going to set your overboost with a Tech 1? The Tech 1 is read-only. The main ways to modify your overboost protection is to trick the MAP sensor into thinking it is seeing less boost (bleed valve), change the signal heading to the ECU from the MAP (FCA/FCE - as mentioned above), or (like I did) use a 3-bar MAP sensor. Just trying to save you a trip to the garage!
Mar 18, 2003 - 07:06 - From: Laurence
Message: Just thought I would mention this, most people will know that you can reverse the Elan up most standard DIY car ramps to work underneath. The front is much too low for this but, I recently discovered that you can get lower level ramps for leveling up trailers & caravans on slopes and this type of thing will fit under the front of the Elan. It will only raise the front a few inches but could possibly be useful sometimes if you don't want to bother with a trolly jack and axle stands. Laurence
Mar 18, 2003 - 08:12 - From: Dave M.
Message: The human resource specialist in our office just tossed me the keys to her new 350Z. I really need to get my car done! I forgot how much I missed a seriously taut suspension and some grunt to a powerband (mind you I've been driving the Subaru). Nice car...not the whisper-quiet speed of the old 300TT, but a very solid platform (as much as I could tell in a quick, low-speed sampling) and it GROWLS! Mmmmm.
Mar 18, 2003 - 08:33 - From: Laurence
Title: Se Wheels
Message: Ryan, there is an add in E&M for 4 good S1/SE wheels for sale with good tyres for £275 Tel: 01628 481527 (Bucks). Could be worth it if they are straight and have the right tyres on. Don't forget you can also get a set of new 16" Federal wheels with Yoko tyres for £500 from SWLotus. Laurence
Mar 18, 2003 - 16:46 - From: Jørgen, DK
Title: Low temp, again.!.
Message: Just changed thermostat to 195 deg.F.,but unfortunately it didn't help. Temp. is still very very low when driving in light frost weather. It might help if I blocked half of the cooler off, but that is not a proper solution. Is there a T-state of 210 deg.F.?. What dos the "Book" say about the standard t-state, and where can I find it.?. Also had the wheels balanced. They was obvious very buckled. 160g of target.!!!., so I will also have to look for new wheels!
Mar 19, 2003 - 00:38 - From: Dimitris GR
Message: Hello guys. Dave, you are right about Tech-1, even though you can do some settings, like auto bleeding, but only in Esprits. The way I mean it is trial-and-correction. I'll use the Tech-1 as an accurate boost measurement unit and set the MBC to 0.9 ;-)
Mar 19, 2003 - 05:37 - From: Geoff
Title: Wheel weights
Message: Hi all, Probably a stupid question about wheels here, but, I have always noticed that there are a couple of little weights attached to the rims of my wheels (definatly on the rears, but not sure about fronts). There are 2 x 10 gramme and 1 x 5 gramme weights on each wheel. These seem like such tiny weights, but do they actually make a reasonable difference to the handling - I assume that is what they are there for. It's just that the other day I noticed that the weights on the rear right have dropped off. Am I now driving a potential death trap? Many thanks in advance Geoff
Mar 19, 2003 - 05:50 - From: Ryan
Title: Wheels - answer and a question.
Message: When wheels are balanced they attach little weights so that the wheel does not wobble at high speeds. All that will happen Geoff is your balancing will be out a little and you should feel this when driving, not a death trap at all though - not a very techinical answer but one for the layman. Q: could someone please explain what a federal 16" wheel is - is this the one thats on S2's or just an aftermarket lookalike, thanks.
Mar 19, 2003 - 07:07 - From: Dave M.
Title: 16" wheels
Message: I believe the S2 wheel is this http://www.lotuselancentral.com/images/Gallery/SB2.jpg While the federal (US) Elan wheel is this http://www.lotuselancentral.com/images/Gallery/DAM4.jpg
Mar 19, 2003 - 07:44 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Rough Crawling
Message: Got caught up in a M40 5 mile queue the other day due to road works at the M40/M42 junction and we just crawled along. I found it hard to smoothly crawl along, is this a symptom of a worn throttle position sensor, sticking throttle cable or sticking butterfly - any thoughts or other pointers? Anyone know of an independant non Lotus UK source?
Mar 19, 2003 - 08:35 - From: Simon V
Title: Ref: Rough Crawling
Message: Whilst explaining his car's difficulty to crawl smoothly' Richard asked: "Anyone know of an independant non Lotus UK source?" I think I'm being dense here Richard...a source for what?
Mar 19, 2003 - 12:34 - From: robert collins
Title: Rough crawling
Message: Richard, I am no stranger to slow crawling traffic on the M6/M60/M62! In 1st gear I can let the clutch up v slowly (with no throttle) and the car will crawl along at whatever speed matches the idle RPM (5 - 7ish mph?). The car will trundle away perfectly happily at this speed. Any slower and it's either stop/start or coasting, which is a lot more tiring on the legs. Are you saying that the car won't rise gently from idle, but jumps violently to high RPM?
Mar 19, 2003 - 13:13 - From: Ryan
Title: wheel refurbishment
Message: has anyone had any experience with buckled wheels and refurbishment? I had my MR2 wheels done years ago and if i can remember correctly they sorted out a buckled wheel too. If anyone has a contact in the manchester area that can do this or information of past experience please speak now or forever hold your peace, thanks.
Mar 19, 2003 - 20:11 - From: Matthew Welsh
Message: I changed the t-stat and it was the problem with running too cold. You could just look at it sitting on the kitchen counter and see that it was not shut all the way. I installed a 180F/82C t-stat. This is the proper one as the car now runs at 1/4 on the gauge. BTW, as a cost cutting move internet access of ALL DTR employees is being removed effective this Friday. So I guess this means I'll being buying my own computer and talking to you chaps in a couple of weeks. Bye for now, Matt
Mar 20, 2003 - 02:52 - From: Simon Vickers
Title: wheel refurbishment
Message: Ryan i've not tried these people, and it wouldn't matter if I had because they seem to run an "area rep" type operation, but they do list a Manchester-based bloke: RAJ PALMER 07974 407756 http://www.wicked-wheels.co.uk/locations.shtml
Mar 20, 2003 - 07:53 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Rough Crawling 2
Message: I'll try and explain my rough crawling a little better. Whilst in 1st gear with the clutch out (i.e engaged, drive to wheels)travelling at around 5mph when I gently press on the accelerator pedal the car tends to lurch forward and when I take the pressure off the pedal the engine seems to lurch back again. I don't know if it is the accelerator cable or the Throttle position sensor. I don't get this with my Lotus support vehicle (VW Golf) but saying that the golf is 3 years old and the M100 is nearly 12 years old but both have done the same amount of mileage. The independant part I was after is the throttle position sensor.
Mar 20, 2003 - 10:28 - From: Ed
Title: Rough Crawling
Message: Richard, are you seeing any such behaviour while in other gears and gently rolling onto the accelorator? If not you may want to rethink the TPS. If the TPS has one or more bad spots on it, you would notice them in all gears at the same throttle position. Lower gears would probably be more pronounced of course but it should be noticeable in all gears if your looking for it.
Mar 20, 2003 - 10:44 - From: Andrew
Title: New Hood / Seal
Message: Was someone asking about where to get replacment hood in the UK recently? Around 6 months ago I found that Paul Matty Sportscars in Bromsgrove (01527 835656) were supplying the Trim Technology hood (Dean.Holt@trim-technology.com), complete with new header-seal for £200 (£350 fitted).
Mar 20, 2003 - 10:57 - From: Sean
Message: Hope that someone might be able to help. Janspeed have let me down and have said thta they will not be able to have the exhaust ready for me so I need to order one urgently (must be a stainless steel) does anyone know of a GOOD uk supplier that provides one? Thanks Sean
Mar 20, 2003 - 12:22 - From: Jack
Title: Turn signal indicator
Message: I have recently developed a strange problem. My interior indicator light (in the dash) for the turn signals has stopped working. The turn signals (exterior) them selves are working, and I know the bulb is good because if I put the 4-way flashers on it blinks like it should. Anyone got any ideas?
Mar 20, 2003 - 13:45 - From: Dan
Title: Harps! - Headlight Control Module
Message: Check out "Common Replacement Parts" listing under "Repairs/Problems/Maintenance" links from LotusElanCentral -- this may be your problem; there are two control modules, this fix worked for Scott & me.
Mar 20, 2003 - 15:18 - From: Ade
Message: Sean, Try S.J. Sportscars 01363 777790. WWW.sjsportscars.co.uk I bought mine from there. Go for the sports box its a little noiser than the standard but does sound good.
Mar 21, 2003 - 07:39 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Exhaust
Message: Sean, Try Double S exhausts of Culumpton Devon, they have a web site which you can find off Google Richard
Mar 21, 2003 - 08:10 - From: Warren
Title: Dump valve
Message: Have fiited a baileymotorsports dump valve and its has a very visible effect of improving acceleration when I am flooring it. Especially between 2-3-4 gears. However I have a few questions. The boost gauge now seems to be at 0.2 bar as a start point (even in idle) is this right? Also should the dump valve sound even when I am easing off the gas when cruising in 3 & 4th gears at levels where i don't think the turbo is active? Now accelration seems slower above 90mph (this could just be relative)is this normal? The dump valve is the only modification on my car, but the front pipe on the exhaust(after the down pipe) is blowing badly (supplier waiting on part). Any ideas? Cheers
Mar 21, 2003 - 09:19 - From: chris brown
Title: dump valve
Message: warren.yes you will hear a noise from your dump valve when at speed in 3rd/4th/and even 5th that is normal. i would check all the new and old tube work going to your dump valve and the t piece check that there are no loose pipes this could give the boost gauge false readings as all these pipes are connected to the boost gauge?
Mar 21, 2003 - 18:40 - From: Doug
Message: Warren, there is no way to have +0.2Bar pressure at idle so thus your gauge is off. Since it just did it and since the problem is the same 99% of the time, you need to check to see the black wire going to the boost transducer is loose at the screw at the base of the bracket and then re-tighten it which should fix the problem. There's really no other explanation, which is good.
Mar 22, 2003 - 02:18 - From: randy
Title: turn signal indicator
Message: I had a similar problem a few months ago.Even tho all exterior bulbs were flashing, I was frustrated and replaced one. That solved the problem, and now the indicator works. Makes no sense to me, either then or now, but give it a try.
Mar 22, 2003 - 08:10 - From: donald
Title: fuel economy and gear cables
Message: Like some of you I have terrible MPG figures. my car seems to work fine in all other respects. I would like to know if any of the other cars that are guzzeling also had their ECU chip changed for the new emission regulations that was brought in the UK in the early nineties. The Northern Ireland Mot is carried out by a government agency (strict)- I believe others in the UK may have left as standard. -- On another tack - my gear-cable went this week, thanks to the writeups on this site I was not afraid to have a go myself. My failure was the Twisting adjuster mechanism popping apart - the permanent fix was to tie-wrap it together. - And again - changed the oil and filter - How do you stop the oil running down the back of your arm as you remove the filter ? thanks .....
Mar 22, 2003 - 09:07 - From: Simon Vickers
Title: Dump valve
You have the same symptoms (vis-a-vis dump valve) as I have with a Bailey...I think the spring's not strong enough, I'm sure it shouldn't be almost constantly venting while cruising and venting after only the most gentle accelration. The noise is awful too. I've bought an adjustable recirculator from FSE (FHE?) and it'll get fitted the minute this Iraqi conflict calms down. My Bailey will appear on eBay shortly afterwards.
Mar 22, 2003 - 09:24 - From: Dave M.
Title: Dump valves
Message: Warren, I had the same issue with the HKS valve in 4th and 5th. If the valve is set too sensitive, under slight vacuum (such as lifting slightly at highway speeds) it will open. If the intake system is charged with boost, this is fine as air goes out the valve. If there is no boost, this can be bad as unfiltered air will actually suck in through the valve. Unless you are driving in real dusty conditions, it's probably not a major issue, but it may make some think twice about adding a recirculation-type kit (like Simon mentioned) or fashioning your own.
Mar 23, 2003 - 00:33 - From: Doug
Title: GAZ adjustable dampers from SJS
Message: Well, I got my big 'care package' from SJS last week, full of new dampers and other assorted bits. Just wanted to report how much I like these new dampers/struts! They are each adjustable for ride height and damping rate. Let's just say my old struts were shot--about 80K miles and they bounce all over the place--reminds me of a bouncy Cadillac ride. I put one in (the left rear) a few days ago, and then drove the car a few times. Boy does it make an obvious difference! The left rear felt as if it were hugging along the road nice and firm, while I could feel the other 3 corners of the car bouncing all around! Inspired, I put the right rear in today; drove the car, and yet again, I can feel that the entire rear is riding beautifully while the front still is bouncing around. Am so happy and inspired now that I am planning a late night install of the right front tonite. Definitely worth the money; and I'd bet almost all of us have tired original struts now . . .
Mar 23, 2003 - 12:19 - From: Dave
Title: FSE (FHE?)
Message: Info on "Adjustable recirculator" would be appreciated. Do they have a web site?
Mar 23, 2003 - 15:11 - From: Darren
Title: Dump valve
Message: Warren, I too fitted the Bailey dump valve and I too have the same symptoms as you, i.e 0.2 on the boost gauge and what seems like almost constant venting. So is it the valve itself or the way it's been fitted ? (Simon, if/when you dig out the details of your re-circulator, I'd be interested).
Mar 23, 2003 - 16:13 - From: SJ Vickers
Title: Dump Valve - FSE (FHE)?
Fitted the new valve this morning and took Stripey out for a quick lunchtime fling around Middlesex (night shift does have its benefits!)...This is a vast improvement on the Bailey BOV (IMHO) even at stock adjustment (I haven't plumbed the recirculating hose yet, as I want to get the dump setting right first and I can't see how you can know when it's dumping if you're recirculating, because of the supposed lack of noise. Be warned though, the diameter of the inlet flange is substantially smaller than that of the Bailey. I managed, however, to compress the Bailey hose (part of the BOV-associated fitting kit) sufficiently (without leaks) to get a good fit to the T piece. The new unit dumps later and doesn't appear to be constantly wanting to vent ad nauseam! Furthermore, if anyone wants to use one of these as a normal (non-recirculating) BOV, it has a classier "Whooooooosh!" than the Bailey...more of a "bl**dy great sneeze" than a "Puuufff". Any offers of a more onomatopoeic description of a functioning BOV, much appreciated.
You've caught me on the hop though; what little paperwork I had when I ordered it [the BOV]is at home in Worcestershire and the box is up in my room in the Mess...and I'm down in a bunker 3 storeys underground.
Can I get back to you at a later date please guys?
Mar 23, 2003 - 16:26 - From: Simon V
Title: Dump Valves - FSE
What's more to the point, there's a variety of flange sizes too. I reckon I must have the TBV003.20A...the TBV003.25A measures in at 25mm. I think that's more like the size of the Bailey's inlet.
You can order online with major credit/debit cards too. Hope this helps.
Mar 23, 2003 - 17:07 - From: robert collins
Title: Rough crawling
Message: Richard, what you describe doesn't sound all that abnormal to me. In most cases you do want your sports car to take off aggressively when you open the throttle ;-) At a guess, maybe you could adjust the throttle position sensor so that the ECU detected "off idle" conditions at a slightly lower throttle position to smooth the transition slightly. The ECU detects you accelerating from idle by looking for a certain %age signal from the sensor, which may equal a smaller or larger movement of the throttle, depending on adjustment. You'd need a tech-1 of Elanscan to set it properly.
Mar 23, 2003 - 17:19 - From: robert collins
Title: dump valve noises
Message: My Bosch recirculating dump valve (off a Saab 900) makes a barely audible "phssshhhhhh" when it opens. The sound lasts for about 3/4 of a second, so I guess that the valve would only be a performance enhancement if you completed every gearchange in 0.5 seconds or less! FWIW it opens whenever the inlet manifold goes under vacuum.
Mar 23, 2003 - 17:40 - From: Mars
Title: BOV & Rough Crawling
Message: After much perusal of this site re BOVs, I installed a Tial BOV. I chose the Tial instead of the HKS cos the supplier here (in Oz) did not have the hoses to go with the HKS (other wise I would have installed the HKS). The Tial is more expensive, and does not allow any adjustment. It is capable of holding up to 3.0 bar (if that's the right term - holding). According to the supplier, this BOV works on a piston/diaphram steup instead of springs. I have now had the Tial for over a year with zero problems. In hindsight, I'm glad of this decision (thanks to HKS supplier!!) as I don't want to keep adjusting springs, etc. You can also get a recirculating BOV from Tial, but it costs more & I didn't want to cut a hole in the air box. The Tial does not come with hoses or 'T' piece. I had a 'T' piece fashioned out of steel pipe & installed it with the existing hose. I do on occasion get rough crawling, usually when the car is cold. I either just throw it back into neutral, select 1st & go again, or gently increase revs whilst it's hopping around (no stranger to kangaroos here!!). This seems to work for me. As I said, I don't get it often enough to worry about. Regards......Mars
Mar 24, 2003 - 01:28 - From: Doug
Title: rob c dump valve
Message: Rob, I am not sure what you are saying about performance value? First of all I can surely change the gear in 1/4 second and likely do most of them in under 1/2 second, but I don't see how that matters. Dumping the charge keeps the turbo spinning so when you engage the next gear you have more ready access to positive boost.
Mar 24, 2003 - 01:32 - From: Doug
Message: Well, got the 3rd damper on last night. The fronts are harder, take longer, and require more tools than the rears. Old damper can be extended and compressed with almost no effort--this explains the Cadillac sensation. Also the top bumper/rubber under the gaiter was dried up and flaking away and half gone. Needless to say the new one works great. The car rides so much nicer already--it really does feel like a new car. It sits glued to the road now--can't wait to carve up some local country roads . . .
Mar 24, 2003 - 07:47 - From: Dave M.
Title: front suspension/seats
Message: Good to hear the ride is much improved, Doug! I just put my fronts in yesterday (but won't be going for an immediate drive...bummer!). What settings did you start with? Have you noticed the lower ride height? On another note, got my seats back from the upholsterer where I had some openings put in for the shoulder harnesses. I have begun reassembly and curse the day I took them apart. I'm going to like the finished product, but the hook system used to hold the leather cover to the foam backing is a nightmare to take out/put back together. Don't go there. ;)
Mar 24, 2003 - 12:38 - From: Doug
Message: Dave, yes the seats took the longest of any Elan job I have done, when I did the seat warmers I had to disassemble the entire bottom! Hey, while you are there you could throw some in for those cool MI days! If you feel like the damper write-up I can add my 2p also. Sure was a good tip on the deep sockets, and I found my magnetic pick-up useful to put the top bolt washers back on and even to place the top nuts back on and get them turned one turn so I could then drop the socket over them. I put the front damper spring baseplate to yolk bolt distance 2cm shorter than the stock damper. I decided to put the adjuster dial facing inboard, rather than outboard [outboard=as I had done on the rears] as I figured I could reach this with the car on the ground and wheels turned to the lock so I could adjust it easily. I set it on +16 clicks to start. How bout you?
Mar 24, 2003 - 14:37 - From: Gregor
Title: Sport exhaust from Paul Matty
Message: Can anybody recommend the sport exhaust from Paul Matty ?? I would like to order one, but don´t know if this is the right one for my Elan ;-)... And I hope I don´t have to use a welding torch and a big hammer to fit the exhaust under the car :-(( Please help me! Thanks a lot.
Mar 24, 2003 - 15:49 - From: robert collins
Title: dump valve
Message: Doug, what I mean is that, I reckon the audible sound is more than just the pressure in the manifold being dumped - it's the sound of the compressor still trying to pump air as it slows down. Thus what I'm saying is that if you want to see a performance benefit from your dump valve, you've got to get back on full throttle before that compressor wheel slows down completely! One of my Elanscan files has some brisk gear changes - from 100% throttle to 100% throttle in ~0.6 seconds. This is changing up at 6000+ rpm, so not exactly gentle driving ;-) I'm judging the dump valve performance here by how much boost there is at the instant the throttle gets back to 100% open. Going from 1st to 2nd, the boost came back in at 0.11 bar. Going from 2nd to 3rd, the boost came back in at 0.27 bar, but the gear change looks very slightly quicker. So as I say, you've really got to be quick on the shift to get any extra boost.......Rob.
Mar 24, 2003 - 18:39 - From: Rod
Title: Finally - Elan Video with ECU data
Message: http://www.mardibloke.co.uk/adw/m100.mpg My first attempt at video, logging ECU data ( thanks to Elan Scan ), and video from multiple cameras. Thats my first attempt at sticking it all together. Now have proved it, potential for doing it in better quality and adding more guages for Elan Scan data. Would be interested in feedback.
Mar 24, 2003 - 22:33 - From: Steve
Message: Title says it all ! How did you do that ?
Mar 25, 2003 - 02:34 - From: Doug
Title: Go Rod Go !!
Message: Fabulous, Rod. Suggestions--how about more. You need an HTML page with links to the videos--my WMP wanted to stream your mpeg and wouldn't load it until I linked to it and downloaded it in full first via trickery. How about the other 29minutes of the drive? How about some pop-up bubbles with what all the babes on the sidewalk say as you drive past? Gotta put the boost gauge on there too, man! Also I have been peering in your garage for a few months via your webcam but have only seen your car and bike each day--any other action going on in there ever?
Mar 25, 2003 - 02:50 - From: Geoff
Title: Fuel economy experiment
Message: Hi All, After realising I was only getting 200 miles/tank the other day I have been engaged in a little experiment. Since filling up (to the brim) the other day on premium unleaded (95 ron) at shell I have been driving as economically as possible. This involves 20 Miles through outskirts of London in the morning, then 50 miles round the M25 in the evening. Obviously I'm aiming to see just how far I can stretch a tank of petrol. I haven't been above 3000rpm since filling up (frustrating initially, then strangely calming). I know this isn't a very exciting way to drive the car, but I wanted to know what was possible. I'm a little way off using half a tank at the moment, and have racked up about 140 miles. I'm going to try to break the 300 miles barrier. Feel free to take the economy challenge! I'll let you know what my final achievements from this tank are. You'll probably see walking along side of the motorway in a couple of days with a petrol can in my hand. Geoff
Mar 25, 2003 - 03:55 - From: Simon V
Title: Sport exhaust from Paul Matty
I can personally recommend the PM sports exhaust. I've had mine for about 3 weeks now and it's great. Nice tone without being boy-racerish and heaps more performance.
On the downside however is that they are prone to causing overboost (Rob B built a device, designed by another owner whose name escapes me, to cure my overboost and it works a treat). The other option is the BBR chip/kit which costs about £400 IIRC.
Paul Matty is reluctant to sell the exhaust "as is" (£299+VAT) and prefers to fit them on his premises (£399+VAT all in). There is no problem with either SE or S2 cars being catered for. SE is easiest but he has ordered mid sections to accommodate the S2 brigade with cat or without cat. I got this from the horses mouth about 2 weeks ago. Hope this helps.
Mar 25, 2003 - 07:04 - From: Ben
Message: Great soundtrack Rod! Well done.
Mar 25, 2003 - 07:45 - From: Dave M.
Message: Great job! I love the music...I'll be singing that the rest of the day at work!
Mar 25, 2003 - 07:53 - From: Dave M.
Title: fuel economy
Message: Geoff, the first day I owned the car, I drove from Chicago to Detroit (all highway ~300 miles) at about 65 mph (I didn't know the speedo was off at that point). I know I didn't fill up on the way and remember getting something like 37-38 mpg! Ah, the beauty of that little engine.
Mar 25, 2003 - 10:53 - From: keith g
Title: turbo replacement
Message: Looks like it is that time. Oil in the exhaust. What's the deal on turbo replacement, do we have to send them out? Can I buy one exchange? I would like to do it quickly as this is my daily driver. keith
Mar 25, 2003 - 11:26 - From: Darren
Title: turbo replacement
Message: Keith, SJ Sportscars (http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/) have this listed in their price guide, so it may be an idea to give them a call "RECONDITIONED TURBO CHARGER £395.00 SJ100E0003". I know other people do the same thing i.e Turbo Technics etc. Darren.
Mar 25, 2003 - 12:00 - From: keith g
Title: turbo replacement
Message: I'm in the US but I may call them if I can't find something over here.
Mar 25, 2003 - 12:36 - From: Darren
Title: Kia hood seals
Message: Laurence, I understand that you've manage to make contact with the Kia people, if so, what's the score on hood seals ? i.e are the Kia versions compatible, if so are they better than the Lotus offerings and if all this is true, can we actually get some from Kia, here in the UK. As ever, just a passing thought. Darren
Mar 25, 2003 - 13:50 - From: Philbo
Title: New Turbos
Message: Keith, if you are going to get a new/reconditioned turbo, it may be advisable to get some small mods done at the same time if you are that way inclined - you may find it will cost no extra. They are UK based again, but Turbo Dynamics will swap you a reconditioned turbo with any mods you want for a fixed price. Stronger wastegates and/or slightly bigger compressor and/or turbine blades could transform the car.
Mar 25, 2003 - 18:37 - From: Terry
Title: Starter replacement
Message: Okay, sorry if it's on another section of the site but I can't get in to any of the other sctions of the board. Has anybody had the pleasure of replacing their starter yet? I can see both mounting bolts thru the side after removing the right side wheel. Can also get to the electrical connection. But for the life of me, I just can't see how the starter assembly will fit out from behind, underneath or heaven forid, after removing the intake plenum, out the top. Any help? Dies this starter cross over to an Isuzu part? Send me an e-mail if you have an answer.
Mar 25, 2003 - 18:47 - From: Rod
Title: The M100 Video
Message: I can take little credit other than bringing other peoples efforts together. It involves a PC under the drivers seat, running Elan Scan connected to ECU to log data, and two web cams connected logging video footage. Park the car in the garage and the wireless card in the PC allows me to connect and trasnfer the ( huge ) files. A chum ( Matt D )has writted a program to take ECU data and create a "blue screen" video with the guages in the corner. Then a splice the front and rear cam footage together and overlay the blue screen video with the guages on. Finally picking a sound track, as all I am getting is wind noise right now. Lots more work for Matt to do on the ECU > Video program, but am pleased with first results, and we may eventually get the on track video Doug has always wanted :) Thanks for suggestions, what do people think to the quality ? I don't really want to go any higher quality as the files get huge ( that was about 10MB/minute of footage ),
Mar 25, 2003 - 19:07 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: I'm back!
Message: Took my daughter to Disney on Friday and got just over 30mpg! Here's a small tip for anyone traveling south to the Orlando area: Take US1 instead of I-95 then US17 instead of I-4. Right now, with construction & spring break, you will save over an hour and have stuff to actually look at too! Above is my new home E-mail. My old work E-mail is still valid as well, just depends on the time of day.
Mar 25, 2003 - 19:18 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: 2 1/2" PCE & downpipe
Message: Since I have already done most of the work (2 1/2" PCE already completed) I am having a 2 1/2" PCE with attached mandrel downpipe terminating where the existing downpipe does with the 2-bolt flange at the same angle, ready to bolt to the rest of your exhaust. I am having it coated at Jet-Hot, to stop that dreaded rust before it starts and also for the shear beauty. At that point I will take pictures. You will be shocked at the visual difference between 2 & 2 1/2", looking down through the neck of the PCE. Will either go up in the attic or to the highest bidder.
Mar 25, 2003 - 20:38 - From: Doug
Title: oily exhaust
Message: Keith, I am doing my part to ask how you have deided it is the turbo leaking the oil?? Have you checked the cylinders, rings, plugs, seals, gaskets, or other sources of oil? Just want to be sure you don't replace it unless needed. There should be plenty of places around who could do a fine job of turbo rebuild, which should be the cheapest. You could send it wherever overseas if the price and result are worth it. You could make it better during rebuild by replacing with better components too.
Mar 26, 2003 - 01:12 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: After the 2.5"
Message: Hello guys. As I already mentioned before, I changed the exhaust system to a 2.5" downpipe and a racing catalytic convertor. From this point further there is the 2" pipe and a high flow 2" final muffler. So, where is the problem? In the beginning there was this overboost >1 bar that I overcame with the BOV setting to lower rates. But there's another annoying and most probably harmful thing. There are many pops and sometimes bangs when changing gears (!!!) Does this mean that I'm running lean? How can this be fixed? Thank you. :)
Mar 26, 2003 - 02:10 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Pops & bangs
Message: Dimitris, sounds like your BOV is maybe too sensitive and whenever you let off the gas to shift it "blows". Plausible, don't you think?
Mar 26, 2003 - 02:58 - From: Alan
Title: Pops and bangs
Message: If anything pops and bangs indicate your running rich - its unburnt fuel igniting in the exhaust. Although I think its probably just that your exhaust is more free flowing than before so you hear it better, rather than any problem with the mixture - I certainly heard more pops and bangs after fitting a stainless exhaust with a straight through back box (only 2" though :( ). I had the mixture checked and it was ok...
Mar 26, 2003 - 03:28 - From: Doug
Message: Dimitris, I believe you are referring to popping/gurgling as with overrun/deceleration. This is likely due to the design of your exhaust with a greater diameter up front and only the 2" pipe after the cat. This allows a pressure change and disturbs the exhaust smooth flow in the system. This may be remedied with change to a total 2.5" system. On another note, my downpipe broke once and I drove the car this way for a few weeks. It has an incredibly nice sound raw out of the engine which is fiercely loud (set off all car alarms within a good raduis), and it was very gurgly and poppy in this form. The point being that the raw exhaust note does have some of this sound to it, so it also may just be the open nature of the system you have installed allowing you to better hear what is going on.
Mar 26, 2003 - 05:43 - From: robert collins
Title: fuel "economy"
Message: My record without running dry is 294 miles from a brim-full tank. On re-fuelling I got over 45 litres in, which is quite a lot for a 10 (UK) gallon tank...Normally 30MPG without driving gently. Low 20's if I cane it :-)
Mar 26, 2003 - 06:06 - From: Philbo
Title: Fuel "economy"
Message: I'm pretty certain I got about 320 miles from a tank, once. I must have been Mr Gentle Right Foot that day - all motorway cruising as I recall. My worst effort was 8mpg on an airfield day - yikes!
Mar 26, 2003 - 07:24 - From: Gregor
Title: Exhaust Answer from Simon V
Message: Hi Simon. Thanks a lot for your answer. Unfortunatlely I have to wait for the exhaust :-( Clive from Paul Matty told me he is waiting for one pipe.... But he will have the part ready for tranport within the next two or three weeks (I hope I can belive him!). End of april we have to change all the belts including the cam belt and all belonging hardware. I think we have no fun during this job!? You mentioned the BBR chip/kit. Can you tell me where to buy this? Thank you.
Mar 26, 2003 - 09:21 - From: Simon V
Title: Exhaust Answer
Message: Best you get back on the phone Gregor. The only outlet I know for the BBR Kit is Mr PM! I'm not saying they're the only outlet, just the only place that I know.
However, this might be their webpage:
http://www.bbrgti.demon.co.uk/...you need macromedia flash software to view it properly and because I'm on a works machine I haven't got it and I can't install it. Can anyone confirm this for me/Gregor please?
Mar 26, 2003 - 11:25 - From: Andrew
Message: It has been said on this site before that the BBR is very expensive for what is basically a couple of resistors and a fixed Manual Boost Control. I think you could make this for a few £ / $, although I do not have the knowledge myself. I'm sure that at some point there was talk of how to make this with bits from RS / Maplins. Anyone have the knowledge?
Mar 26, 2003 - 11:29 - From: Philbo
Message: That is indeed the correct website, though they aren't listing any Elan parts any more. I originally bought my BBR "kit" through Bell&Colvill, so they may still be in a position to supply them as well as PM.
Mar 26, 2003 - 11:47 - From: Simon V
Message: Andrew, you're correct. I can vouch for their simplicity, although having assisted/watched the construction & fitting of mine I still wouldn't want to build/install one. Purchased the makings of two units for about £8.00.
Mar 26, 2003 - 11:55 - From: Robert Collins
Title: Poor man's BBR kit.
Message: My own version cost as follows............. Bleed valve (sourced from pneumatics equipment stockist) £15 ................Fuel-cut Eliminator in nice black box (self-built from Maplins parts + correct electrical plug to avoid cutting Elan wiring harness) £35. Of which £11 was for the plug, included several "spare" sets of components and loads of wire left over for other projects.
Mar 26, 2003 - 12:26 - From: Darren
Message: Philbo, did you read the info on BBR's Interceptor 2000 product ? Darren.
Mar 26, 2003 - 14:20 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: April 2003 EuroTuner Magazine
Message: Page 18 states "Lotus' North American debut of the Elise, which was supposed to happen sometime this year, has been delayed due to emissions and crash-test requirements. The tentative date for the car's appearance on these shores is now March 2004."
Mar 26, 2003 - 20:32 - From: Doug
Title: US Elise?
Message: And that's probably too soon a prediction as well. What about developing and dropping in the whole new driveline, SRS system, seat belt tensioners, Fed bumpers, etc? I'll believe it when I see it . . .
Mar 27, 2003 - 00:46 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Pops & Bangs
Message: Hi all. Thanks Matt, Alan, Doug. I think that it is most probably the restriction of the exhaust system after the cat (which is not a real problem) but I'm also afraid of a wrong mixture... The thing is that it is happening mostly on sudden right foot lifting on high revs, and fast gear changing. Hmmmmmmm...
Mar 27, 2003 - 02:12 - From: Marie
Title: pops & bangs
Message: Hi All, I have the same problem when I wind the engine out. After much dyno time it was concluded that the almost backfire like sounds were caused by colder outside air rushing into the now 2.75" exhaust after hard acceleration then suddenly letting off the throttle. When the hot gasses of the exhaust meet the cold gasses rushing in it makes a gurgling/ popping sound. It's kinda cool sounding but its also an indicator of a rich mixture (i.e. the rich mixture of a turbocharged engine) The reason the stock exhaust doesn't do this is because the exhaust created by the engine still fills the narrow stock pipe enough to reduce/ eliminate this sound. When you go larger with the piping you would need to fill alot more area with exhast gasses to reduce the pooping sound (not going to happen so enjoy the sound) I ended up changing out my 2.5" exhausts after my high flow cat. took a poop and one of the monolithic "bricks" lodged itself into my 2.5" exhaust causing limited boost (.125 bar) and an overheated turbo. The 2.75" plumbing flows much better along with a custom built glass-pak muffler. All that I can say is wow it sounds mean. Happy elaning.
Mar 27, 2003 - 04:02 - From: Philbo
Title: BBR Interceptor 2000
Message: Darren, yes I did have a quick perusal but there are a lot of these devices out there now and the trick is being able to find someone who can (a) fit it to your car and (b) map it correctly - unless it's properly mapped it's effectively a worthless device. Most of these piggyback ECU's are designed to work off timing signals from standard Ford, Vauxhall or Rover cranks, some can be made to work with engines without a crank signal (like the Elan) but as such engines are pretty thin on the ground compared with the vast numbers of mainstream engines, it can get very fiddly and expensive. The Unichip is known to be able to work with a signal from the CAS in the Elan, the waveforms just need to be understood. Finally there is the mapping issue - the Unichip is designed to be fully mapped on a rolling road for every installation. Although alternatives like the Emerald can be mapped this way, it is more usual to provide a map from an existing "similar" engine installation - it's quite common for owners of upgraded Elises to swap maps with each other to try and find a best fit for their car, whereas a properly installed Unichip should be unique and perfect for that one vehicle. I don't know much about the BBR I2000, but their "kit" for the Elan has left a slightly sour taste in my mouth, and as I have some very local tuners that I know and like who can fit the Unichip, I think I'll be sticking with that.
Mar 27, 2003 - 04:40 - From: Gregor
Title: Lotus Cars of America Has Recalled the 1991 Lotus Elan
Message: Don´t know if anybody has seen this: Safetyalert: Lotus Elan
Mar 27, 2003 - 04:46 - From: Dave
Title: FSE (FHE?)
Message: Thanks Simon, will check them out.
Mar 27, 2003 - 04:52 - From: dave
Title: rob c dump valve
Message: Doug, Please give me details of your gear linkage! I can barely dip the clutch in 1/4 sec!
Mar 27, 2003 - 06:12 - From: Clay Webb
Title: Fan switch
Message: the fan for the rad is not cutting in. I know it comes in late but it is not working at all. Can anyone tell me where the temp switch that triggers the fan is located ?
Mar 27, 2003 - 06:49 - From: KEVIN
Title: REAR LIGHTS
Message: Need to know where to get cheap rear lights for Elan Turbo '91!!!!!
Mar 27, 2003 - 12:13 - From: Dave
Message: Andrew. Do you know anymore about BBR's "fixed manual control valve"? What does it look like. Is it really fixed?
Mar 27, 2003 - 13:03 - From: Rod
Title: $8 ALDL connector ?
Mar 27, 2003 - 13:04 - From: andrew
Message: Robert Collins posted these links back in August showing the two parts of the BBR kit. I believe the little white thing is the MBC. http://www.lotuselancentral.com/images/Gallery/BBR1.jpg http://www.lotuselancentral.com/images/Gallery/BBR2.jpg
Mar 27, 2003 - 13:04 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Clay, where is fan switch?
Message: Clay, close to the engine, put your finger on the large black rubber coolant outlet hose going to the radiator. Move your finger straight up one inch and your finger will be on the copper colored metal switch capped with a white plastic piece. There is a single green wire coming out of the top of it.
Mar 27, 2003 - 15:17 - From: Dave
Title: Clay, where is fan switch?
Message: I think if you short this wire to earth the fans should come on, with or without the ignition on(Make sure it's not any of the wires going to the temp sensor!). Can anyone confirm?
Mar 27, 2003 - 16:52 - From: Mars
Title: Pops & Bangs
Message: G'day all, I have the standard exhaust piping & I also get the pops & bangs. It is consistant with flooring the pedal & release to change gears. If I drive in a 'civilised' fashion i.e. no hard revving, no pops & bangs. I can bring in the pops & bangs 'on call' when I want to by revving hard. I don't know if I should be concerned, but will watch this site. I haven't been concerned to date. Regards......Mars
Mar 27, 2003 - 18:17 - From: Darren
Title: BBR Kits
Message: If anyones interested, BBR still make the Elan kit i.e "Yes" we still supply and fit the Reboost kits. Fitted Price at BBR (Brackley) £445.00 + V.A.T D.I.Y Price £345.00 + V.A.T Suggest phoning 01280-700800 for further information and deals. Too much for me. Darren.
Mar 27, 2003 - 20:32 - From: Mark
Title: ALDL cable
Message: Does the ALDL cable from Wide Open Throttle fit into the Elan port without any mods, or is there something that needs to be rigged up to use the cable with ElanScan? Will a standard OBD I cable also work with ElanScan?
Mar 27, 2003 - 21:54 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Dave, fan switch
Message: Even though you have incured my mechanic's rate of $1/hour (that's about .65GBP/hour for those of you overseas considering doing the same), I can confirm that shorting the fan switch to earth does indeed turn the fans on whether or not the ignition is enabled. Please remit a check for .2 cents (since that amount cannot be found in general cirulation, or I would gladly accept cash) to me within the next 7 years, so that I will have the statute of limitations on my side. One cannot be too careful these days, Matt
Mar 28, 2003 - 02:18 - From: Alan
Title: ALDL cable
Message: Mark, Have a look the ElanScan message board. The WOT cable works, although I'm not sure if it comes with a suitable ALDL plug or not, I don't think an ODB I cable would work.
Mar 28, 2003 - 05:47 - From: rudz
Title: fan switch
Message: the fan switch is, as everyone else has said, located on the thermostat housing. Matt's description is spot on but of course don't do it when engine is hot ! it has a plastic connector(on the cable side) that needs to be pinched if you're to unplug it out of the fan switch. if this is grounded, it will activate both fans. the wiring diagram is on SHEET 18 of the Elan Electrical Manual. good luck ...rudz
Mar 28, 2003 - 05:58 - From: Clay
Title: thanks and.............
Message: Thanks for the info on the fan switch guys....now how about this. I need to replace one of the guides that screws to the glass on the side windows. The little white ones that slide in the channels at each end of the door. As its one of the top ones I may be able to do it without taking the glass out fully but in any event I will need to disconect the glass from the motor. How does the white retainer slide out......up down or sideways ? I've done it before on my S1 but I remember it coming out easily. On my S2 however it doesn't seem to want to budge any way....am I doing something wrong ?
Mar 28, 2003 - 08:47 - From: Paul
Message: Does anyone know where i can get TAF-X in the UK Thanks Paul
Mar 28, 2003 - 11:30 - From: Rich Lemieux
Title: Elan won't start...intermittantly
Message: UGH! After all of the upgrading and replacing of worn parts, now my Elan is not starting. Towed it to the garage, and it starts fine for them. The story: I drove it about 1 mile. Stopped the engine for about 1 hour. Drove another mile or so. Stopped the engine for 5 minutes. Started the engine to go somewhere else. It started, but immediately stalled out, and would not restart, even after 1 hour. Flatbedded it to the mechanic (Harry Appleby) and it then started fine for him. Has anyone else experienced this? I don't like the idea of having this happen many times before it can be diagnosed. thanks in advance, Rich
Mar 28, 2003 - 12:00 - From: Doug
Title: won't start
Message: Rich, sounds like the old classic vapor lock in any other older car, but I doubt that is what is happening. That is because the Elan has a fuel return line to prevent just this. Does sound suspicious for perhaps weak fuel pressure = check fuel pump is coming on with key turn to run, perhaps clogging in fuel filter, or weak pump? Have Harry throw the Tech-1 on there to be sure the sensors are running right, as I can vouch if your coolant temp sensor (CTS) goes south it could cause something like this.
Mar 28, 2003 - 12:44 - From: Peter W
Title: Re: Elan won't start...intermittantly
Message: Rich, a fuel pump relay on its way out (or a failing connection to it) can cause intermittant starting. On LHD Elan's it's in the speaker compartment behind the driver's seat (Electical Manual pg. 12)
Mar 28, 2003 - 16:49 - From: Dave
Title: BBR Kits
Message: I seem to recall a magazine running a test on this kit (supplied by Bell & Colvill?) in the early 90's when the Elan was current production. Anyone have a copy of this please?
Mar 28, 2003 - 16:59 - From: dave
Title: Clay, where is fan switch?
Message: Just to clarify,the fans should come on as follows when the wire is earthed: 1. Ignition off - fans and coolant pump running 2. Ignition on - fans running Remember, don't wear a tie when doing this!
Mar 28, 2003 - 19:17 - From: Rich Lemieux
Title: Re: Intermittant start
Message: I should mention that the engine cranks like crazy, just no fuel. Harry thought it might have mattered that the tank was only 1/4 full, bu I have run it down to 1/8 many times. The only other fact might be that the right rear wheel was in a depression, so the car was not completely level. Harry has been driving my car all day, trying to duplicate this problem.
Mar 28, 2003 - 19:35 - From: rudz
Title: Clay, where is fan switch?
Message: On my S1, when the ignition is off, the thermoswitch can only activate the coolant pump. When the ignition is on, it can only activate the fan. There never will be a situation when both can turn on. Dave, could you confirm this ? It would be interesting if both can be activated together when ignition is off. It will definitely cool the system faster and has just given me an idea ! Cheers ...rudz
Mar 28, 2003 - 21:22 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: OK, my bad
Message: With the ign. on only the fans run with the switch wire grounded. Put hand on pump, feel nothing. With ign. off only pump runs. When I made the connection the other night I assumed I heard the fans, but it was the pump. Tonight, heavily armed with a dual element flourescent light, I went shootin' for bear and learned the truth. It's like the difference between a hurricane & an electic drink stirrir, not that I ever drink.
Mar 28, 2003 - 21:40 - From: Rich Lemieux
Title: Car is back, runs like new! (was not starting)
Message: Harry drove my car for 2 days. (First he idled it for 2 hours!) Anyway, he says nothings wrong, no charge. I get the car back and IT'S VERY FAST!!!!! I forgot how fast it was supposed to be. Something he did must have caused the computer to really click in. The turbo is boosting earlier, the BOV is popping like crazy, and I even got a trademark Lotus exhaust POP! The performance difference is greater than when I had the 2.5" exhaust added. Harry says he "flogged it", but I think it may have just needed a good idle since the last battery disconnect. I'm hoping for the best. I looked at the fuel pump relay and its very clean and dry, no bad contacts there.
Mar 29, 2003 - 01:30 - From: Doug
Message: Rich, did he bring it back with a full tank? Maybe he zeroed it with the Tech-1 and then drove it like you said so it re-learned good habits--all the more reason to drive it hard from now on! Worth asking him what he may have done with the Tech-1 though! Since no one mentioned it yet, thought I'd point out could be a faulty grounding somewhere. I remember the good old days when the car wouldn't start when the distributer got damp, so dad had to dry it out with a hairdryer and then car'd run fine--moral = could be some coil/ignition thing?
Mar 29, 2003 - 14:36 - From: dave
Title: Clay, where is fan switch?
Message: Sorry Guys my mistake. Memory not what it was. Rudz you are correct. Checking the wiring diagram it is fans or pump but not together. I think it would work if the cooling fan relay supply was changed to permanent live and connection at terminal 87a moved to 87 (or just piggy back them). The pressure swith would then operate the pump as well as the fans. ref wiring diagram sheet 18. Not sure how easy this would be. Alternatively you could also use another relay wired same as the cooling fan relay but with a permanent live supply to terminal 86. Don't forget to use fuses as appropriate!
Mar 29, 2003 - 16:29 - From: Andy
Title: An everyday proposition
Message: Hi, I don't own an Elan yet but am seriously considering the idea but do many people run these cars as everyday transport. I don't have a garage available at the moment; this makes the notorious leaky hood more of a problem - are they generally that bad? Any advice gratefully received!
Mar 29, 2003 - 17:05 - From: Philip
Title: re: everyday proposition
Message: Andy. Lots of people in the UK use the Elan as an everyday car, the amount that the hoods leak seems to vary from car to car. But if that's the only thing holding you back why not get a shower cape from www.race-speed.com ?
Mar 29, 2003 - 18:10 - From: stephen
Title: re. everyday proposition
Message: hello andy, the elan is a very practical everyday car. i keep mine on my driveway no problem, there are ways to shore up the hood to stop (most) leaks and like phil said there is a shower cape. it has a suprisingly large boot for a car in its class and it can give a resonable mpg if driven carefully (not a chance in hell). thay are ideal for carving up rush hour traffic if you use it through the week. i think they run better with regular use. stevo.
Mar 30, 2003 - 13:14 - From: Ryan
Message: Hi all, i seem to have the notorious battery problems starting. For the first time today the battery seemed weak when starting - bit of hesitation. Then a few hours ago it would not start. When the car is running the meter reads at least 14, if not full but when i get back to the car a few minutes later and turn the ignition the needle barely moves. I got it started miraculously and its home now, just want to know what i should look for first before running out for a new battery, thanks.
Mar 30, 2003 - 14:57 - From: Philip
Title: gear knob (gear shift knob?)
Message: My gear knob is looking very worn, has anyone fitted a MOMO or similar? The Lotus knob has a collar at the base that the leather gaiter fits over, which I guess is not going to be there on non-standard knobs.
Mar 30, 2003 - 16:42 - From: John Cushnie
Title: Rear Calipers M100
Message: Hi, The garage who service my Elan SE Turbo think that the rear calipers are shot and not worth remaking/rebuilding and they have recommended sourcing two new rear calipers. Any suggestions on where to buy from in the UK, and likely cost ? Many thanks. John Cushnie. firstname.lastname@example.org
Mar 30, 2003 - 17:45 - From: Mars
Title: Phil's gear knob & floor mats
Message: I replaced mine with a new original M100 knob sourced from RD Enterprises in the US (www.rdent.com). It cost US$37.50. Great service from Ray, received it within 3 days in Oz! I am looking for original floor mats, any tips? Regards.....Mars
Mar 31, 2003 - 00:00 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Re: Elan won't start...intermittantly
Message: Hi All. When I was experiencing the same problem, exactly 1 year ago, I changed the fuel pump twice, and finally found that ithe faulty part was the.... Tadaaaaaaam..... Immobiliser board!!!
Mar 31, 2003 - 00:00 - From: George
Title: Philip, gear knob
Message: Philip, I fitted my car with the carbon-fibre Momo Combat know a couple of years ago. Great fit, feels even better. Really easy to install and no fitting problems at all.
Mar 31, 2003 - 00:06 - From: George
Title: Headlight conversion
Message: I'm trying to get some input regarding upgrading my headlights to HID. I know there were a couple of people that did this, what are your thoughts? Was the installation a pain in the ass or was it pretty simple? Also, I admit I'm not a good mechanic, especially an electrician..., so I'm a little nervous about doing the ballasts...etc... Any input will be appreciated. Since I got a burnt out bulb as well as a worn out motor (got the rebuilt kits for both sides), I thought it would be smart to do the conversion at the same time. By the way, here is a site I've found. http://www.headlights-hid.com/HID_HEADLIGHTS.htm If anyone knows I can get the kit at a lower price, please inform me. :-) Thanks, George
Mar 31, 2003 - 00:10 - From: Joel
Message: Ryan, you did not say how old the current battery is, but my guess is that it is completely shot. I've had this happen a number of times with other cars--a reluctant start and then nothing, even after the battery should have been charged by driving. It seems to be the symptom of an internal short in the battery--it can no longer take a charge nor can it deliver the required "juice". Time for a new one! Joel
Mar 31, 2003 - 00:48 - From: Mark
Title: rear calipers
Message: John, interesting timing about your problem, as I have my rear calipers off the car and am in process of rebuilding one of them. The rear brakes get little braking activity as the proportioning valves shunt 85% of the brakeline pressure to the front brakes. I wonder what your mechanic is referring to when he says they are worn out. I am replacing 1 seal, 1 rubber boot and a 2 way check valve, with total cost less than $50 plus my labor. Harry down at Viking Motors in LA offered to sell me a pair of calipers at $300 each, so the new ones aren't cheap. Ask your mechanic if the calipers can be rebuilt rather than replaced.
Mar 31, 2003 - 07:50 - From: Dave M.
Title: battery/gear knob/HID
Message: Ryan, you may want to unplug your trunk light. The switch seems to be the culprit in most cases, leaving the light on. The battery may just be a goner, however. A battery shop can test it to see how the cells are. Philip, I have fitted a Momo knob and just left the gaitor loose. You can barely see at http://www.lotuselancentral.com/images/swheel/newwheel.jpg It looks fine IMO. George, careful on HID conversions. If it is just the bulb that is replaced, the orientation of the Xenon arc with respect to the stock filament within the reflector may be different. What happens then is the angles of reflection change and your beam pattern may be horrible. This happened to some extent when I replaced higher output bulbs (not even HID) into my Subaru. If you do, replace the entire reflector assembly, otherwise you may be very disappointed.
Mar 31, 2003 - 09:36 - From: Warren Bailey
Title: B+C service
Message: Hi, Does anyone know of a good and inexpensive place to get a B+C (cambelt change) service. My car has 84000 miles on the clock and I am quite sure its still on the original cambelt. This plus the usual need changing and checking over.The guy I usually use has quoted me a rough price of £600-£700. This seems a bit rich (SJ Sportscars quote £425+ Vat)but that's in Devon and I live in Windsor, Berks. Thanks for previous advice on dump valve etc.
Mar 31, 2003 - 12:21 - From: Darren
Title: Rear Calipers M100
Message: John, the handbrake lever can seize in place causing the pads to contact the discs, sliding pin problems and that's about it. Your options are, buy a seal & pin kit from SJ and do it yourself (beware there's a special tool required (?)) or get them re-con'd by either SJ Sportscars or Classic brakes, both of which are circa £120-130 per caliper. Failing that, buy them new from either Lotus (£200+ each) or off the internet, they're off a 1989 Pontiac Grand Prix (rears & pick the heavy duty version). For info, I'm having my internet Pontiac calipers fitted on 8th April, I'll report back my findings etc. Darren.
Mar 31, 2003 - 12:42 - From: George
Title: Dave, HID Conversion
Message: Dave, I think the HID conversion kit requires you to replace the whole housing, which include the reflectors. With the H5006 type sealed beam the factory use on the Elan, it seems that every time you got a burnt out bulb, you have to replace the whole housing assembly. Did you do a conversion so you do not have to replace the whole housing but just the bulb? You mentioned you got higher wattage bulbs for the Elan, was there a noticeable difference? If that's the case, it may a route I'll go with instead, since it's a lot cheaper... By the way, do you have to modify the wirings so the new bulbs get the electrical current it requires? Thanks, George
Mar 31, 2003 - 13:37 - From: Jeff Brown
Title: rear caliper question
Message: Mark, as you have your rear calipers in bits at the mo' would you be good enough to tell me if I will be able to fix a non operational "ratchet" adjuster thingy? My mechanic has advised on an exchange unit but I would prefer to fix it if its possible.
Mar 31, 2003 - 15:08 - From: Tony V
Title: Rear Calipers
Message: There may be something I am missing here..but I was told by several people that know, that the rear calipers are form the W body GM cars from the late 80's. I would think that these are easy to find and cheap to replace. There was a huge class action lawsuit with these. GM had to provide the bushing kits to retrofit so they don't freeze up so easily. I have forgotten what the W cars were...but it was like the LaSabre or other mid range GM here in the States.
Mar 31, 2003 - 16:14 - From: Darren
Title: Rear Calipers
Message: Tony, as mentioned above, I bought my rears from the US (long story) and can confirm they are from a Buick Regal 1990-1993/Chevy Lumina 1990-1994/Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1989-93 or a Pontiac Grand Prix 1989-1993 (not sure if these are GM wide bodies, it's a UK thing). Your also right to say that the US versions are rebushed, to quote the sales ad "heavy duty option is fitted with problem solving hard anodised aluminium bushing and including lever, bracket and spring". Now, as also mentioned to Doug, I haven't had these fitted yet as there are a few subtle differences, namely the caliper mounting and one of the levers doesn't have provision to mount the handbrake cable but I'm hoping these items can be removed from my originals. I'll have more info after the 8th April. Darren.
Mar 31, 2003 - 16:22 - From: Darren
Title: Calipers, calipers and more calipers
Message: Why I'm on the subject of calipers, the fronts are off a 1989 Pontiac LeMans GSE 2.0, make sure it is the GSE 2.0 and not the 1.6, as they're NOT the same. Hope this helps, Darren.
Mar 31, 2003 - 18:20 - From: Graham
Title: Problem starting
Message: Can anyone tell me why when I try to start my Elan all I get is a clattering noise from the starter motor which doesn’t engage the flywheel? Could it be a weak battery? TIA Graham
Mar 31, 2003 - 19:55 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: colored MBCs
Message: Black, red, or blue anodized (NOT painted) Manual Boost Controllers for $15. Color match to your car. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=2409018258