March 2000 Message Board
Mar 1, 2000 - 09:37 - From: Rufus
Title: So what's an error 31 mean then?
Message: Further to my previous messages, I've checked the ALDL and the only error recorded is a 31 "Manifold Absolute Pressure (Turbo Overboost)". Can anyone tell me what this means and what a likely cause is? I'm sorry if it's elsewhere on the site but I'm at work and have no time to trawl through. But I certainly will do one day! There's stacks of useful info here that even a mechanical ignoramus like myself can make good use of. Thanks to everyone who contributes.
Mar 1, 2000 - 16:58 - From: Doug
Title: For Rufus
Message: Hey Rufus, get yer name on the Owners' List, eh?! Code 31 happens when the MAP (Manifold Pressure) sensor reads high pressure = overboost. I think you should look into a stuck/sticky wastegate control rod or a faulty wastegate capsule (diaphragm pressure chamber)--both of which can be replaced if needed. This is an area that is prone to getting sticky from weathering, etc. I keep mine "well exercised" so I don't worry about it too much. If your wastegate is sticking from this then the ECU is working overtime to control the engine
parameters and this may explain the other symptoms. You can remove the turbo front heat shield (3 screws) and try to free up this rod. You can "clear" the ECU error codes if you want by unhooking the battery from the car for at least 30 seconds, then reconnect it and check the error code to verify it is clear. Then you will know if the code happens again and to be sure it is only code 31. Let us know what you find.
Mar 1, 2000 - 17:24 - From: Doug
Title: Words of Warning!!
Message: Steve, I'm concerned; please be careful with your money! I am VERY skeptical of the BBR conversion--it was described once on the board a while back. (per
JJ: "my BBR conversion just appears to bypass the "Boost Control Frequency Valve" (located on back of air filter housing/trash can, it's cylindrical with clear cap) by joining the two tubes together with a plastic restrictor"). I would ask them 1000 questions if I were you, Steve. Make them explain EXACTLY what they do and WHY this works--I am not a believer until I hear more about this "conversion." The "Boost Control Frequency Valve" is only there to limit boost at low RPMs, and even disconnecting it will not affect the boost--I believe mine is disconnected--I'll have to check. There is no point in messing with this valve. Also I would get specifics of any changes they make to the ECU, if any! Ask them HOW and WHY they change it. If they are for real, they should be GLAD to provide you (and us) with this info! Their price is HIGH, and I'd rather see you get a bunch of other Elan Goodies for the same price!!
Mar 1, 2000 - 22:50 - From: Michael
Title: CAS Problems
Message: My CAS went out this weekend. All the classic symptoms: engine light on, unable to rev above 4000, etc. Ordered a new on from
Isuzu. $92.00 Anyway, I will be removing the broken one soon. If any do it yourselfers want it, it's yours. First come... Email me. Doug, still have not sold my car, but hey everybody's car is for sale for the right price, right? It's just my price is lower than some other peoples! Bill, I still need my air box back and when are you going to get the production run done for the cold air intake? Just wondering.
Mar 2, 2000 - 00:59 - From: Vince
Title: Help Mr. Wizard
Message: I am currently looking at possibly buying an Elan. I am wondering about cost of ownership with the various problems that seem to come up with this car. I currently own an Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce. Would anyone have an idea about how cost of repairs and dependability compare to the Alfa? The Elan I am looking at is red, has 32,000 miles on it. The front spoiler is cracked and a new one has been ordered. The car seems okay but I am not sure exactly what tell tale things I should notice. The asking price is $19,500 U.S. Looking at the prices of others listed on this site it seems to be in the ballpark but I don't know since I have never examined another Elan. Any help or input would be appreciated.
Mar 2, 2000 - 01:37 - From: Bill Luton
Title: BBR
Message: I have always been impressed with BBR because they always seem to know their stuff, they have a very good reputation, and their product always tests out to do what it says when reviewed by magazines. I do not have a description of their reboost kit for Elan but do have a description of their reboost kit for the older RWD 1985-89 Isuzu Impulse and Piazza Turbo models. That "kit" requires installation by BBR and involves modifying a pop off valve on the intake manifold, modifying the springs on the waste gate actuator unit, and pressure switch that is installed into the intake
manifold to cut the ignition circuit if the turbo overboosts. I would assume that the Elan kit is similar. I am
very interested in details on the kit and its performance. Over the past several years, I have discussed importing these into the US, but have not received a very positive response from customers who usually say they can do the same with a fifty cent aquarium valve. The things everyone overlooks is the overboost protection and that this kit could be used in combination with some sort of bleeder valve or boost controller for a further incrimental improvement in power output._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 2, 2000 - 02:02 - From: Doug
Title: Boost
Message: The BBR conversion is almost $800US !!!! Surely some serious stuff must be going on for it; but this is not the report from JJ! The aquarium valve for $10US seems to me to be the better choice--but decide for yourself everyone. The overboost protection is built into the car on the MAP sensor as Rufus has recently pointed out. I think BBR and Superchips are praying on our ignorance of how the boost works on our car! Yes, I bet almost every other car ever made with a turbo would need a chip upgrade to run the engine management under higher boost--at least we can thank Lotus for developing the computer well! With the money saved, you could get one of Bill's new exhaust systems, Steve--then the Elise drivers will be commenting on the nice sound of your Elan as it passes them! ;-)
Mar 2, 2000 - 08:01 - From: Richard
Title: Ron Hickman and Ketteringham Hall
Message: UK Club Lotus Midlands Area March Meeting
Date - 9/3/00
Time - 20.00 - 23.00
Venue - Moat House Inn, Kings Coughton, Alcester, Warwickshire
Speaker - RON HICKMAN (designer of early Elan and Black and Decker Workmate)
All are welcome
Open Day at Ketteringham Hall
Date - 18/3/00
Time 11.00 - 15.00
Venue - Ketteringham Hall, Whymondham, Norfolk
Reserve places for Ketteringham Hall by phoning Lotus Customer Contact Centre 0870 036 2277
Regards
Richard
M100 Register, Birmingham, U.K
Mar 2, 2000 - 08:45 - From: Bill Luton
Title: BBR
Message: As far as I know, BBR reboost kits do nothing to the computer program and make only physical changes to the system. The example of the 1985-89 Impulse/Piazza Turbo is of a totally different engine with a
Bosch/Hitachi fuel injection system. That system has no overboost control at all. The kit for the Elan may very well include some sort of piggyback module to move the fuel cut farther up along with some other changes for safer performance at a higher level. The point though is not to throw BBR into the same category as Superchips. Superchips is known to be a bunch of crooks and their product continually
under performs whenever reviewed. For BBR, this is not the case, as their reputation is not stained like Superchips. As I indicated before, 40 HP from the BBR kit plus 40 HP from the
bleeder valve is 80 HP, as compared to 40 HP from the bleeder valve alone. The bleeder
valve may be the easy step but once all the easy steps are done, you have to take the difficult steps to make more power._ _ _Bill
Luton
Mar 2, 2000 - 12:52 - From: Rod Little
Title: ** Donnington Lotus UK Meeting **
Message: Whilst we have a few confirmed people for Donnington, it would be nice to have more, only a week to go now !! Email me direct if you are south of Donnington and if north of Donnington contact Jason at crellinj@it.postoffice.co.uk see www.lotuselancentral.com/donnington.html for more information. Plan is now 100% for Saturday 11th.
Mar 2, 2000 - 13:36 - From: dimitri
Title: BBR fcd
Message: The BBR kit is a simple clump voltage fcd (fuel cut defender). The worst is that we
don't need it, because it stops the map sensor voltage in 4.25 V (0,65 bar)
instead on 0,95 bar where the fuel cut starts.
Mar 2, 2000 - 14:07 - From: Bill Luton
Title: BBR
Message: What I was suggesting was that based on the kit for the 85-89 Impulse/Piazza, that unit is not a
bleeder valve or manual boost controller. The BBR kit increases the power output on that car from 130/135/140 HP (US/UK/AUS ratings) to 175-185 HP. The UK Piazza guys then add manual boost controllers and push power to 210-220 HP, and
unfortunately max out the fuel injectors and blow engines. Now this is a different car and a different engine
(predecessor to the later model Impulse that shares the engine with the Elan), but if they are approaching the situation the same way, this would be a totally different upgrade from a boost controller/bleeder valve/aquarium valve, and the two could be used together to push power past the results of using one or the other. Meanwhile, it sounds like Dimitri may know more about what BBR is offering for the Elan than any of us who are kicking around ideas. Give us the long detailed version Dimitri._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 2, 2000 - 14:46 - From: Doug
Title: Boost
Message: Okay, I understand what everyone is saying--my point is that the only way to "raise" the HP on our car is to raise the boost! AND this can be done safely with only a bleeder valve up to the 0.95 Bar cutoff--this fact is true on our car but NOT on your average turbo car! Yes there is even a diagram online for a "fuel cut defencer" by Kip, an Isuzu guy--with this simple trick it is then possible to go higher without the fuel cut--but then you'll get other problems like big engine failures. To raise the boost worthwhile over 1 Bar will require a bigger turbo, as terminal velocity is just about met at 1 Bar! So the point here is that spending MAJOR money to "supposedly" do something you can do for less than $10 is frankly stupid! I cannot imagine what could be worthwhile in this BBR conversion--if so then let them explain it to you before they take your wallet. If you want smoke and mirrors I will gladly sell you a bleed valve for $500 and give you a cool looking certificate and some stickers, and I'll even keep your car for a day or two and have fun with it if you need to feel like I did anything to it.
Mar 2, 2000 - 15:11 - From: Steve P
Title: Boost Control Valve
Message: Doug, I have to disagree about the boost control solenoid. Surely it does nothing at low revs. At high revs it is actually the average exposure time of the waste gate
diaphragm to the atmosphere, via the boost control valve, that enables the wastegate to stay closed above 0.41 bar. Hence, if you disconnect the pipe to the BCV the boost shoots well over 0.65 bar with ease, close it off and you only see 0.41 bar. I'm glad that my ordering the BBR kit has generated so much discussion. I'm becoming more and more curious as to its contents! I'll keep you all posted ;-)
Mar 2, 2000 - 15:16 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Increasing Boost
Message: You are ignoring the fact that there is more than one way to increase the boost on a turbocharging system than just a bleed valve. Max Power (UK) or Fast Car did a big
write-up on three of the more popular methods and how they compared and contrasted several years ago. I believe it was a bleeder valve, an adjustable wastegate, and a third
method I don't even remember. They found that each worked and improved power individually but using the three together netted more power, wider power band, and the highest level of performance. You are
espousing only one boost increasing method and discounting all others when the fact is that once you have already installed a bleeder valve, to get any farther along on building power you must seek another method. This is similar to some of the rationale in the difference between light weight underdrive pulleys and aluminum flywheels. Both reduce rotating mass and release more torque by freeing up effort that would have been used simply to turn these big heavy parts around in circles and allowing that effort to be put toward turning the tires around in circles. The pulley is $160-170 and installs with hand tools in an afternoon with a 12 HP improvement on the non-turbo 130 HP 1.6 liter Isuzu DOHC engine. The flywheel costs a little under $500 and you have to pull the transmission out to install it, resulting in 16-18 HP on that same engine. The standard short sighted approach is to install the cheap easy piece and ignore the more expensive difficult piece and settle for 12 HP. However, combining both pushes power from 130 to 159, resulting in the turbo model power level in the non-turbo engine. Back to the turbo tuning, using one method to increase boost brings you to the limit of that single method rather quickly, while combining more than one method results in higher output results._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 2, 2000 - 15:31 - From: Steve P
Title: BBR Web Address
Message: www.bbrgti.demon.co.uk Just in case you guys want to ask them a few more questions!!!
Mar 2, 2000 - 16:14 - From: Doug
Title: Boost
Message: I never said the MBC is the only way to raise boost. Bill, please tell me if this is not true: "by using a MBC alone I can raise my boost to the 0.95 max; if I defeat the fuel cut (cheap to do as well) and still use only the MBC I can then allow the turbo to spin up to its max sustainable boost level, which is not much higher than 1 Bar. Even a new wastegate will not allow anything more from the turbo than I can get alone with the MBC." Why then do I need another device/method on the car (and we don't even know what it is, do you?) to raise the boost up to the 0.95 max?? Especially one that costs so much and does nothing else for the engine, internals, or ECU?? I am not saying anything about BBR's credentials (yet), and if I had a different make car I would probably have one of their products. I'm just posting a warning not to give money away for nothing--take it from me, I'll sell anyone MY Superchip for half of what they want from you ANYTIME!!
Mar 2, 2000 - 17:32 - From: Steve P
Title: More Boost
Message: Surely things are a little more complicated than just stuffing more air into the engine. There must be a good reason for limiting the boost to under 0.41 bar below 2900rpm for example. Please correct me if I'm wrong, if you connect an MBC it will allow more than 0.41bar below 2900rpm? Does the fuel or ignition mapping in the ECU cover out of limit boost at such low rpm? The fact it may be mapped to nearly 1 bar won't necessarily mean the fuel and ignition curves are correct?! I know there is good collective knowledge around this site, but lets keep an open mind. BBR have been well respected for many years in the UK and have an excellent record in motorsport. They have also produced the fastest Lotus Elise for the chief designer of the World champion Formula 1 Tag Maclaren team, so they must know a little bit about engines ;-)
Mar 2, 2000 - 18:18 - From: Bill Luton
Title: More than one way to skin a turbo
Message: Well, I guess since you have a bleeder valve, you can pull that blow off valve off and use it to hold down a trash can somewhere. I'm quite certain you would disagree, pointing out that your blow off valve does in fact enhance your performance in ways that the bleeder valve can not, but both are in fact boost control devices and both help in different ways. Each of these different pieces that control the turbo system can be modified for better performance in different ways to build more power, increasing boost, increasing boost at specific points in the RPM range, allowing more boost earlier in the RPM range, reducing lag, reducing turbo deceleration between shifts, etc. Try as I might, I can't find that article, but if I do, I'll transcribe a few of the more
poignant parts._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 3, 2000 - 00:07 - From: Doug
Title: boost
Message: Well, enough said--I've given the information I need to give. I am just trying to help others understand that there is NO WAY this BBR "conversion" is deserving of its price!! If they are not modifying engine parts or the ECU then there is nothing "magical" about their kit! The Elise conversion is for real: upgraded parts thruout the engine--now that is something to throw a month's salary at! One last phrase: there is no "magic" to raising the boost on the Elan, so don't be fooled by smoke and mirrors. Any company that is willing to mislead owners in this way is on my blacklist (i.e. Superchips). I welcome "proof" from BBR but know I won't see any.
Mar 3, 2000 - 00:52 - From: Andy Y.
Title: The truth is out there...
Message: Yeah, I agree w/ Doug about the MBC -- It's proven best-bang-for-the-buck value out there! And before I got to this site 'bout a year ago -- I was considering a Supershits, but was steered away from owners' experiences. I've considered modifying the MAP sensor, but I kinda like the insurance from damage to the motor. Sometimes I hit the
limiter, but it's only a small inconvenience -- Kinda like when you get the wind knocked out of you in football; as coach says, "walk it off!". It usually returns to normal in about 5 secs. I guess I'm being too greedy by bleeding too much off! Anyways, as one famous 'rapper' said, "Don't don't don't believe the hype!" Andy.
Mar 3, 2000 - 12:14 - From: Rod Little
Title: BBR
Message: I wouldn't say the BBR conversion is not worth the money Doug, we don't have a 100% answer as to
what's included and how it works yet. I am sure that at low revs its certainly going to do a better job than an MBC though. We are just lucky that a 15ukp valve ( for an M100 ) makes such a difference to performance. My interest is if they both do exactly the same thing ( allow boost from 0.65 to 0.9 ) then it makes sense to go for the cheaper option.
Mar 3, 2000 - 13:55 - From: michael bedard
Title: help
Message: the seal on my steering rack is leaking profusely and i need info regarding options. I understand that there is a rebuild kit available and I have the workshop manual but I wouldn't take on the rebuild myself. I'm wondering if it would be feasible to have the rack removed and sent to some hydraulic repair service in
the l.a. area. Does anybody know the source for the elan steering rack? I can't imagine that lotus built one
especially for the elan. Any advice relative to this problem would be greatly appreciated. Michael
Mar 3, 2000 - 15:14 - From: dimitri
Title: BBR information for Bill
Message: The BBR kit contains a FCD and 3 restrictors. "It bypass the "Boost Control Frequency Valve" (located on back of air filter housing/trash can, it's cylindrical with clear cap) by joining the two tubes together with a plastic restrictor" and you must cut the three map sensor cables and put in the FCD. Kip Anderson has made a very simpler FCD but more effective, with rising voltage until 4.7 voltage. That’s why I am planning to replace my BBR FCD with Kip’s (I have one in my Impreza).
Mar 4, 2000 - 03:13 - From: Andy Y.
Title: Correct way to fix Pop-up Lights
Message: Man, I am stoked!!! Found what the mysterious granules are from in the motor housing...It's 3 torque pins, also found on the drives for some power windows. The silicone fix was good, but it doesn't have the density to hold-up to daily use. The correct fix is to insert the 3 pins instead of filling it w/ silicone. The cool thing is that it's a perfect fit! I'll have some pics and a write up soon, but I've got to go back in the garage to finish @ 2:16AM. I have no life...Andy
Mar 4, 2000 - 14:22 - From: Doug
Title: F.Y.I.
Message: Not that I think anyone should be using it, but here is the link to Kip Anderson's fuel cut eliminator mod: http://mojave.clipper.net/~kipa/fce.htm
Mar 5, 2000 - 04:23 - From: Steve P
Title: MAP Mods
Message: I have to say I'd be a bit nervous about loosing a reasonable degree of safety control over the turbo system. I wouldn't want to sacrifice engine reliability for a few high speed kicks. Once you have an MBC you stop the engine being able to restrict boost when it detects 'knock' due to excessive heat/pressure etc. This can't be good for performance Vs engine longevity. If you then bolt on a very non linear FCD such as the one I've just looked at, the ecu will be starving the engine of fuel at the very time it needs it! There has to be a better way, I still can't see why a different ecu
program can't take care of everything: It could easily allow more boost via the BCV, and it can easily be reprogrammed to raise the fuel cutoff without changing the MAP characteristic. Where's that BBR kit I ordered, maybe their local pet store's out of aquarium valves!!!!
Mar 5, 2000 - 17:27 - From: will
Title: MBC
Message: there has been a lot of talk about boost as of late. all i want to know
is has anyone used the APEXi or GREDDY MBC?
Mar 6, 2000 - 14:14 - From: charlie
Title: wow
Message: nice to see heated debates =)
well i'm told its the brake master cylinder on my car, hopefully i can pick it up today and find out if its fixed for once and for all, i changed the
proportioning valves to so i will let you all know if there's a difference in the hard braking, (since its the back brakes that are now gonna kick in sooner). i was going to change the rotors to slotted or cross drilled but was unable to get them from isuzuperformance or topend , anyone else have a US source?
Mar 6, 2000 - 15:09 - From: Rod Little
Title: Charlies' Brakes
Message: Good luck with the car and its new brakes Charlie - the slotted discs make a huge difference - try everything you can to get hold of some - I believe there may be a web site owner that has a set that he STILL has not got around to fitting :-) - but other than that cannot help you with USA suppliers. Doug got his direct from a UK dealer I believe. I like my Tarox ones ( www.tarox.com ) but others appear happy on Greenstuff ones. Wonder if anyone could comment on why under hard braking from 100mph+ ( yes I know I am a bad person ) the car appears to be pulling from one side at the back. I am a little worried that one of my rear wheels is out of true ( lots a weights needed to balance it ) and noticed play in that wheel when I jacked it up. Both top to bottom and side to side play. The other rear wheel has no play. Any suggestions ?
Mar 6, 2000 - 16:08 - From: charlie
Title: play in rears
Message: isn't the rear wheels that can be tightened via the middle nut,
or is that just the fronts, i cant remember off the top of my head, its on the tech page on this site.
Mar 6, 2000 - 16:40 - From: Steve P
Title: Speedy Rod
Message: Rod, Charlie's right. You'll have to adjust the rear wheel bearings. Doug has a write up on this site. I had this problem some time ago, although I can't say I ever experienced it from over 100mph! One of my bearings did adjust up for a bit but was just plain worn out. Chris Neil had replacement kits for some ridiculously low price about £10 ukp I seem to remember, although it's real agro removing the bearing seats from the hub!! It's also tricky fitting the new ones into place and not causing any damage. The results however are worth the effort with better steering and handling. I can't believe how many people go over 100mph on public roads! In the UK that's a hefty fine and potential loss of license. I can't imagine not being able to drive my Elan :-( The BBR kit has arrived! Looks about as exciting as a wet weekend with the hood down. Says it gives a max of 0.94bar. I'm going to take some readings from the MAP modifier at the lab tomorrow to see what its up to. If it's a zener diode in a potted box I'm sending it back! I know, "told you so". Cheers, Steve.
Mar 6, 2000 - 19:59 - From: Doug
Title: Steve / Rod / Charlie
Message: Steve, just wanted to arm you with all the knowledge you need before spending so much! Rod, the dealer should be able to replace your bearings in less than one
hour (so says my local dealer!)--it may be worth it if you can get a good price on parts and labor. Check them and see if they can be tightened first though if you have the time. Charlie, where did your website go?? I am having problems with accessing mine right now as I'm waiting for the server to let me upload a bunch of little changes.
Mar 7, 2000 - 05:38 - From: Rod Little
Title: Speed / Bearings
Message: Speed is neither big nor clever and should never be taken lightly, and many times results can be dangerous. Secondly it can result in loss of license, so indeed I take it very seriously, however I do get tempted to exceed the legal limits - in the right conditions. Thanks for the tips on rear wheel play chaps, I am guessing that my damaged wheel has caused this, and will try and get new wheels and then get the local dealer to check the bearings.
Mar 7, 2000 - 08:08 - From: Steve P
Title: More on BBR
Message: I guess I've now discovered first hand what BBR stands for: "Big Blo*dy Rip-off"! The MAP modifier is seems to be no more than a 4.1V zener diode clamp across the MAP output, it's completely linear. I'm in contact with BBR and will let you know what they have to say for themselves. I reckon I could have achieved their high tech boost upgrade for less than £1 ukp. Sorry Bill, I think their reputation is probably now on a par with Superchips :-(
Mar 7, 2000 - 09:00 - From: Bill Luton
Title: BBR
Message: From both your and Dimitri's description, the kit sounds like a way of
increasing boost without Doug's "magic" bleeder valve (there is nothing
magic about a bleeder valve either). One thing about Kip Anderson's fuel cut circuit, about half the people who have used it have had trouble getting it to work. Most of the trouble seems to be the 10% tolerance in specification in the cheap electronics carried by the likes of Radio Shack. Using mil spec or industry spec electronics that have 1% or lower tolerances can easily take a $10 piece built with poor electronics and push the price up to $100. Even if a similar piece is part of the BBR kit, factoring in quality electronics and labor for putting it together makes up a good 1/4 of the price of their kit. Their valving system on that reference line of behind the air cleaner would probably make up the rest of the cost._ _ _Somebody asked about electronic boost
controllers, any type would work, the advantage being more consistent performance with changes in barometric pressure and humidity that would cause a bleeder valve to need constant readjusting._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 7, 2000 - 11:00 - From: Peter Seow
Title: Speeding
Message: With a car like elan......... speeding is must......... I became addict to speeding before I owned an elan but when I own one..........due to good roadholding etc........ I will speed. I have never a day driven an elan without breaking or exceeding the legal limits. In severe rain when most cars are at 80 - 100 km/h ........my elan ........160. In the dry weathers 200 km/h to 220 km/h. I exceed legal limits by double or even triple the speeds....... I race with a bmw 750/peugoet 605/subrau wrx for the whole journey at 200+ to 230+ . We will see who wins the day. I am crazy about speed. I know. Hard breaking is always needed to avoid *cops* I braked on time from 160 km/h to 80 km/h to avoid being booked and made on time. I was thankful to the car. If I was taking my bmw .......... my license would have been burnt. I haven't got booked so far yet.
Mar 7, 2000 - 12:15 - From: Rod Little
Title: BBR + EBC
Message: I think you have to add a large factor in the cost for the R&D to develop kits like those from BBR. They would be liable also if the kit did anything nasty to your engine I guess. I don't agree with the high cost of the kit, but can understand it. Looks like the MBC wins again though.
I looked into electronic boost controllers ( see here for USA manufacturer http://www.hksusa.com/html/boostcontrollers.htm and here for UK dealer and price http://www.tdi-plc.com/Technical%20EVC4.html, but a) they are rather expensive 400ukp+VAT b) very tricky to set up, think dealer wanted best part of 100ukp to install and set up.
Mar 7, 2000 - 15:20 - From: Doug
Title: Speeding / MBC / EBC
Message: Peter, you are crazy--even if you are the best driver in the world, you can have a mechanical failure or more likely some dumb-ass will get in your way and cause a collision! For those perplexed, my MBC needs adjustment about once per year so is only "low-maintenance"--if you were to be vigilant about maintaining peak racing boost, then it would need more attention. Also after driving Seamus' EBC in the past, I can say the difference between his EBC and my MBC in real-world driving is VERY minimal!! Again, if I were on the track daily then the EBC would be the better choice. I am just putting down my real-world take on these to let others know--I do know exactly the arguments for the EBC but find little real advantage. Also I've been told by Steve at Top End that the Elan's injectors pulsing is controlled differently than most cars so it can make a difference in the EBC you choose, and this is why some people have had problems in the past with certain EBCs.
Mar 7, 2000 - 15:20 - From: Steve P
Title: Yet more on BBR & Boost!
Message: The BBR kit is not going anywhere near my precious engine! I wouldn’t mind paying them the money if I thought they’d spent more than 10 minutes on the R&D. The
aluminum restrictors are simply acting as a cheap manual boost controller. You insert the 1.9mm restrictor; if there is too much of too little boost you insert the 1.8 or 2.0mm. Limiting the MAP is in my opinion a recipe for disaster when combined with bypassing the Boost Control Valve. A near open loop turbo control system spells imminent disaster to me. I know the Isuzu is strong but will it withstand 0.94bar long term (maybe Bill can advise)? Also I don’t think there is anything special about the tolerance of the MAP output limiter. It seems that BBR modified Elan owners often see code 31’s! Just read alt.lotus.net! It is I’m afraid it’s a con because it can all be done with a change of ECU programme, which I was hoping to receive from BBR, not $10 of useless hardware. Sorry to go on but this has annoyed me big time =( so much so that I reckon we could do a far more professional job ourselves. I’m not entirely sure how electronic boost controllers hook up to the engine, maybe someone can advise, but here is my proposal: 1) You don’t need an MBC if you can modify the ECU’s output to the Boost Control Valve. 2) It is desirable for the ECU to control boost, when necessary, to prevent engine pre- detonation. 3) you don’t want to limit the MAP output and stop the overboost protection. 4) It is probably better not to exceed 0.41bar below 2900rpm as we don’t know what the ECU is programmed to do, the engine may well start knocking which is undesirable?? Suggestion, why don’t we modify the signal to the BCV? This would be comparatively easy to do with a cheap microcontroller, a power transistor and a few lines of code! We can modify the PWM signal and programme in an upper limit to prevent overboost. We can even modify the boost characteristic in software whilst keeping the 0.41 bar limit below 2900rpm. The MAP will always be giving a genuine output to the ECU, and we can even have cockpit control of the system! I reckon it’s a few hours work and will cost only a few $/£. If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know. Soon as I get my house move out the way, I think I’ve found something to keep me occupied for a few evenings ;-) Sorry to go on Doug! Please edit as necessary. Cheers, Steve.
Mar 7, 2000 - 15:23 - From: Doug
Title: Oil Filters
Message: Mike, look in the store under "91 Impulse Turbo" for the filter. I use the "Purulator PureOne" but there are a few other good ones out there. If you like to have the "Original
Equipment" filter then spend 10 times as much for a 'Lotus' one!--maybe we can clammer about this topic for a while. ;-)
Mar 7, 2000 - 15:30 - From: Doug
Title: boost
Message: No problem, Steve! I'm glad you didn't waste the money. I agree about the ECU program being best but have no way to ever do this myself. My car will not get high boost at low RPM and I don't think this will ever be a problem. At high boost I believe the engine runs rich and perhaps you could install a mixture monitor or just tap into the O2 sensor to check this for sure if you are worried, Steve.
Mar 7, 2000 - 17:35 - From: charlie
Title: ecu programming
Message: i can program the chips for the computer, i wanted to find someone who had the old chip before being updated so i could fiddle with it, i'd really like to get my hands on a complete ECU to fiddle with..............
i hear stories of each chip being different, i strongly doubt it, the closest i'd believe is that there are different revisions of the GM ECU/EMC/ECM, i also hear they tune it for each car i doubt that too, as a) parameters are reset if battery is disconnected, and b) you only send them the ECU not the car .............
my website is waiting for my provider to update the blinking dns records. i may stick a backup site on geocities as i have a 20mb plus space there.............
i'm surprised at BBR they have a really good name for their miata/mx5/eunos upgrades...
steve you could always use that zener to switch on the cooling fans earlier instead =)
Mar 7, 2000 - 20:25 - From: Peter Seow
Title: Speeding/Modifications
Message: The fact that I didn't get much mechanical failure is already something great about owning an elan.... My bmw went through gear box failure etc mechanical failure. However I get up to that speed only when I am full awake and when the road is empty. Don't try that it is extremely risky!!!! My elan collided into a Taxi. The police gave the taxi driver a fine. The door of the taxi smashed. Elan ... minor damages to the front bumper. I was at 70 km/h (speed limit ...50 km/h) When I get my next elan I would like to do a brake modification before I do the rest. Have anybody done an AP brake
modification??
Mar 8, 2000 - 11:34 - From: Al
Title: Boost
Message: OK Doug, I have read your arguments and you have won me over, I am going to try the MBC as you have suggested. I found en extra $10.00 in my glove box so lets give it a go.
Mar 8, 2000 - 12:08 - From: Doug
Title: Doc
Message: Al, I guess I'll take it as a compliment if DocFizzix likes my arguments?! But I'll take no
responsibility for damage from your overzealous boost! It's like playing with a loaded gun--as long as you know what you're doing, you will be safe. Just tell us about how big your grin is when you get it going---and as I always say, "if you're going to raise the boost, you should definitely get a bypass valve!" ;-)
Mar 8, 2000 - 12:41 - From: Dan
Title: Short-throw shift kit
Message: Bill -- any update on the availability of your "short-throw" shift kits? I'm anxious now that Spring is
here (for today, anyway -- 77 in Cleveland today, may snow by the weekend though).
Mar 8, 2000 - 12:48 - From: al
Title: Boost
Message: The one thing I love about this car is that you can play with it and tweak it to meet your own driving style! Many people are hesitant to tamper with the unknown and for them the commercial bought devices represent a certain amount of security. The basic principles behind the turbo, as far as the physics go, are simple. But you are right, you need to make sure you know enough about any "trick" before you dive into any modification. I have a certain level of comfort that is brought about by my understanding of physics which allows me to try the "ace hardware" MBC without hesitation. I have been reading the information about the ECU upgrades and am convinced that if the original ECU has the programming for the increased fuel needs, then this is the most economical and safest way to increase boost. As most of you know there is a lot of good information on the web from people I consider the real experts with these cars. From what I have seen and read, I think that the MBC is a great option for the average weekend mechanic.
Added not about CV boots: I did not have to remove them from the car, I have another fellow hold the axle shaft in place, then I hit the outer CV with a leather mallet. The CV joint popped right off with no trouble.
Mar 8, 2000 - 14:52 - From: charlie
Title: $6800 dollars later =)
Message: and my brakes appear to be fixed =) but i'm waiting to get stuck in traffic for the real test.............my invoice is 3 pages long .... even actual lotus staff swung by to have a look at my car i'm honoured, they left a tip behind on how to stop the leaking roof. i am going to have the device fitted and see how it goes.
Mar 8, 2000 - 16:55 - From: Scott
Title: Tell me more (leaks)
Message: Charlie, which area of the top does this device concern itself...windscreen?, A - B - C pillar,etc? Just wondering, and hoping ;-) I was about to attack 3 leaks with some DIY mods but if there is something better, I want to know. Scott
Mar 8, 2000 - 17:33 - From: Bill Luton
Title: stuff in general
Message: I'm a little upset to hear about the BBR stuff. I was ready to give them the
benefit of the doubt. From Dimitri's comments, it is different from a bleeder valve on a different piece of plumbing and includes a fuel cut electronic piece. I rather expected something more like a modified wastegate to be part of it. Dimitri, are you using the piece? Did it do what it says it was supposed to? Does it enhance performance even further in tandem with your own bleeder valve? It didn't sound like Steve was going to give it a try, so that leaves Dimitri as our only
witness to the products real effectiveness._ _ _On the shifters, I have S2 cable brackets done and sitting here. I got some sample S1 brackets from Lotus a little while ago and designed a replacement for it to be done from scratch (Lotus wants something like $40 for that silly bracket and Isuzu gets $7 for their version, and I can make it better anyway). I am waiting on my water jet cutter to get the pieces cut out of the 16 gauge steel sheet I provided to him. He also owes me header flanges, header gaskets, fuel
regulator brackets, turbo gaskets, and a long list of other stuff too. The Elan cable brackets are at the top of the list and I will be running them through to be cad plated as soon as I can get them bent, welded, and sand blasted._ _ _Meanwhile, I've been working on the tooling for upper and _lower_ intercooler pipes for the Elan, as well as intake piping. The raw pipe for the intakes is due to arrive in about two weeks and I will crank through those as soon as the pipe gets here. I will be shipping the lower intercooler pipe
prototypes to a volunteer who has already agreed to test fit them, as soon as the turbo
hose ordered earlier this week arrives._ _ _Are any of you Elan owners around Carlisle, Pennsylvania? The IsuzuWeb Isuzu car club has a big gathering at the Carlisle Import/Replicar/Custom Compact show every year, and it is coming up on May 19-21. I've already heard from one Elan owner who sounds interested in joining us and being the center of attention for a large group of Isuzu and Storm owners._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 8, 2000 - 17:38 - From: charlie
Title: national flower of wales
Message: it seems there's supposed to be a tube that runs along the top edge of the roof where it meets the windshield seal, it either comes off or gets flattened, so the fix is to add a stronger material tube into the seal of the roof that acts as a channel and takes away the water, you know like that brass pipe for aircraft
modeling. anyway i'm not overly clear on how it all works, but what's supposedly happening is the water gets stuck in the channel between the roof and the shield and eventually leaks in. so the tube acts like a gutterpipe and takes it away, if you look at the side of the windshield you'll see a channel that is supposed to run all the way around the windshield, it gets blocked or the rubbery seals at the corners get damaged and block the flow of water, which causes the buildup , so i guess the idea is to make the a passage for the water that
doesn't easily get blocked. they said something about inserting the tube into the seal on the roof side but i
don't se how the water gets into the rube in the first place, i'll see what happens when i take my car in next time..........
Mar 8, 2000 - 17:41 - From: charlie
Title: wheels
Message: i'm still after a couple of oz ruote wheels, i emailed the people on the for sale page but either they don't reply or are waiting on another buyer. i have the wanda sitting ready for a couple of em, scuffed is ok, bent rims is not.
california preferred. if you dont want to split em ill probably take all four as i know david s. wants a couple too. so long as none of them are rotationally challenged.
Mar 8, 2000 - 18:21 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Brakes
Message: Forgot something on that last eclectic message. If anyone has any old brake rotors lying around, I am in the market for one front and one rear, totally worn out brake rotor, to be used to match patterning for cross drilled and slotted rotors. If I don't hear from someone within another couple of weeks, I will probably resort to buying new samples from the dealership and waiting the month or two it takes to float them over from England on the back of a sea turtle._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 8, 2000 - 22:50 - From: George
Title: MBC & Fuel Pressure Regulator
Message: How is everyone. Busy work made me not stopping by and post here often. Interesting debates people are having here. Just fitted the MBC and Fuel Pressure Regulator on my car. Guess what.... Performance decreased!!! The car feels significantly slower than before. Got the hi boost. however, no vrooommmm. Why? Does anyone has any ideas? Wonder if anyone out there has fitted the same set up. Called Top-End, said should set the pressure at 45 psi idle, and around 65 full throttle, that margin has been played around already. Still, got a snail paced Elan on hand right now. My friend thinks it may be the
exhaust....? Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated.
Mar 8, 2000 - 23:54 - From: Dave (from Platinum Motors)
Title: Elan top leaks
Message: Doug - had to add this bit about elan top leaks - as far as i know there is no tube that runs along the windshield top edge , however there is a drain tube that runs down each of the "a" pillars . this tube is deemed useless by the mere fact that when the "a" pillar seals were installed at the
Factory the tops of them were sealed with rtv silicone which magically found its way into the drain tube ends rendering them useless - FIX - carefully remove the top of the a post seal at the windshield header rail and remove the silicone from the drain tubes . using sparing amounts of silicone and large amounts of care re-install the seal ( i personally use a blade to "sculpt" a channel to direct water flow to the tubes ) with the top down you should be able to put a cup of water on to the header rail and watch it disappear beneath the a pillar seal top mounting point and out through the drain tubes that run out by the front edge of the doors . If anyone wants more info or is close by our dealership I would be happy to show them how -- Dave
Mar 9, 2000 - 00:22 - From: Scott
Title: Headlamp pod control module
Message: Hi all. I had the misfortune of paying too much attention to the Elan tonite. While working on the sound system, the headlamp motors came to life on their own and popped up, but with no lights!!?? Knowing that I did not cause them to go up, I was dumb struck. I turned on the headlights and they came on. When turned off, they returned as expected. Now here is where it gets ugly. While trying to figure out why they got a life of their own, they eventually stopped working all together. This is not the gear issue mentioned on many
occasions. This sounded like the issue Dan had back in October. I pulled the control module and it was burned to a crisp. The reason I wanted to post this is when Dan had his problem, someone said that the Elan was not prone to this malfunction. Well, maybe
it's time related. We may all find out soon enough. Off to the junk yards looking for a
replacement (see Dan's reference in October) Later - Scott
Mar 9, 2000 - 04:47 - From: Richard
Title: Donington on Saturday
Message: Anyone going to be at Donington on Saturday?
If you want to meet me or avoid me I'll be at the entrance to the hall at 12.00 and 15.00 and hanging around the car park in between.
Richard
M100 Register, Birmingham, U.K
Monaco White SE, reg H14 RCS
Mar 9, 2000 - 08:16 - From: Steve P
Title: Clarification...
Message: Bill, what's the difference between an MBC and restrictor in the wastegate vent tube with the BCV bypassed (pipe simply
returns to the air filter box)? Doesn't the restrictor simply offer a controlled venting to the atmosphere like an MBC? Also, US Elans are very unlikely to suffer incorrect fueling as the ECU will always attempt to keep the correct fuel:air ratio based on the O2 sensor output. In the UK we've just got a CO pot! The BBR info makes repeated warnings to avoiding pinking and pre-detonation which gave me further concerns......Thanks.
Mar 9, 2000 - 08:18 - From: Jason
Title: Donnington
Message: I've sent an email to all the people Rod Little & I think contribute / have contributed (and are in the UK) to this board about the proposed meet. If we've missed you, get in touch!.
Current plan is to meet at Donnington Park Service Station (just off the M1) at around 10.30 AM on SATURDAY. Lots more detail in the email.
Cheers, Jason
Mar 9, 2000 - 08:25 - From: Dan
Title: Headlamp control
Message: Scott -- you may want to check the circuit diagram for headlamp control, which is how I figured out my problem. My headlights never "turned themselves on" so either your control module
toasted itself or got current from another external source(?); mine quit, but showed no physical evidence of burn-up/blow-out. I was told by GM parts guys that the part# I xref'd was superceded and that all Fiero & Firebirds used the same part; the control module in my car came from a '93
Firebird (located under left headlamp pod if you're boneyard picking) and is still working fine. Happy hunting!
Mar 9, 2000 - 09:30 - From: Rod Little
Title: Donnington
Message: Jason, your email address is bouncing any email I send you, suggest you find out
what's wrong with it.
Anyone who is having problems replying to Jasons' email can email me, or see here for full details : http://members.aol.com/av8ndoc/donnington.html Note that we are LEAVING the servives once everyone turns up or at 10:30am at the latest, if you want to be sure we wait for you then I need to know you are going to turn up, name, car colour and partial registration number emailed to me please.
Mar 9, 2000 - 09:32 - From: Martin Burhouse
Title: Front wheel bearings/play
Message: Gents, I have just had an MOT for my Elan and as a recommendation on the bill it said 'off side wheel bearing - slight play & near side front wheel not running true.
Now, is it as easy to nip up the wheel bearings on the front as it is on the back? And 'wheel not running true' I assume means tracking is out, can this be done at a tyre shop?
I need an answer on this one before I set off to DONNINGTON Friday lunch time.
Cheers
Mar 9, 2000 - 09:35 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Steve P.
Message: I'll be the first to say that I am no expert on turbo systems, which is why I subcontract that work to a local company that runs eleven second Eclipses as their personal vehicles. I have read a good bit about them and understand the basics. The bleeder valve or electronic boost controller would go in the turbo pressure reference line between the turbo output side and the wastegate, effectively fooling the wastegate by allowing more pressure to build up than is normally allowed and then, at a somewhat set point, releases that pressure to activate the wastegate. The problem is that you set it one day and the barometric pressure, temperature, and humidity is different the next, or the internals of the bleeder valve shift, and your setting is different the next time you use the car. Big problems
transferring from winter to summer and back if not adjusted to compensate, and don't set it at high altitude and drive to low altitude unless you like raining engine parts. Electronic boost controllers would install the same way but would have a reference sensor to read and maintain consistent performance and eliminate problems with changing weather and altitude. The description of the BBR kit sounds like a similar approach to another sensor. There would be no difference in fooling a sensor or fooling the wastegate actuator, you're still fooling something to trick it into doing what it wasn't designed to do so that you can squeeze out more power. Cars are built very conservatively to avoid warranty claims and keep foolish people from breaking things and you can squeeze more power out of the engine by running it harder as long as you are willing to keep an eye on it and make sure that something doesn't go wrong. Instructions are always written with those foolish people in mind and must be written in such a way that the installer is fully aware of every conceivable problem from the misuse of the product to keep the foolish people from bolting something on wrong, blowing up their car or running into something, and blaming the manufacturer or retailer._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 9, 2000 - 10:34 - From: Ade
Title: Matching monoco white paint..
Message: To anyone out there who as tried to repaint panels on there monoco white elan and cannot achieve a decent paint match.
After spending nearly 12 months on and of trying to achieve
the perfect monoco white paint match, I have finally found the answer, do not use monoco white.
Try auto paint international white, code 400(1200 grms) mixed
with yellow ochre code 402(6 grm) plus or minus a grm to achieve your match.
Mar 9, 2000 - 10:55 - From: Al
Title: Bill MBC
Message: Bill, you are exactly correct. The solution, we need to design a
barometric mechanically operated dial. I have made my MBC and have also ordered a bypass valve. I am not going to put in the BC until I have the bypass valve installed. Until them I my work on a
barometric control for my MBC.
Mar 9, 2000 - 11:47 - From: al
Title: On second Thought
Message: On second Thought, I do not think that any barometric pressure changes in the atmosphere will change the dynamics of a MBC controlled tuned engine that much. The system is open to the atmos at several points including the intake, it is like the airplane that has a door open, the pressure inside is the same as the outside. If you know
something different let me know.
Mar 9, 2000 - 12:21 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Al
Message: The barometric pressure does make variance problems when you start pushing up the boost. Barometric pressure is very different with altitude also. One of our Impulse RS AWD owners is in the Rocky Mountain area of Nevada (4,000 ft.) and is having all sorts difficulty because cars run a good second or two slower at that altitude, and the whole adjustment of the turbo boost is thrown off to the point that if he were to drive his car down to sea level without turning the boost back, he would need a metal umbrella or hard hat to protect him from his falling pistons after he launches them through his hood (engine cover/bonnet)._ _ _I'll start working on that
ambient pressure sensitive bleeder valve right after I finish up that idea for the digital, dash board adjustable fuel pressure regulator with adjustable delivery curve. Another great idea that is way past my electronic ability._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 9, 2000 - 12:52 - From: Steve P
Title: Thanks Bill
Message: Thanks for the info Bill :-) I've started on the electronic BCV modifier which should not need adjustment for atmospheric pressure (I hope ;-o )I think $10 should do it. I was thinking of limiting things to about 0.85bar?
Mar 9, 2000 - 12:59 - From: Jeff
Title: This is pretty funny
Message: Just thought I'd say "hi" and pass this on... http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/ When is it going to stop raining....
Mar 9, 2000 - 13:52 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Coffee Cans
Message: There seems to be a general misconception about large diameter exhaust tips and why they are used. A four cylinder non-turbo engine without a muffler is about as melodious as a combination of a jack hammer and a dump truck. It does not have eight cylinders to balance out the sound like a big muscle car does. Highly restrictive stock exhaust systems muffle the noise down so that it is not
noticeable. But when you put a performance exhaust on a non-turbo four cylinder car, with minimal muffler and a straight exhaust tip, the sound is awful. Using a larger diameter exhaust tip does the same thing as increasing the size of a HVAC duct in a building where it comes to a vent register. The increase in duct size causes a deceleration of the airflow which reduces the sound of
the air passing through the pipe. The increase in pipe diameter shifts the resonant frequency to a lower octave so that it is both deeper in tone and lower in volume perceived by the human ear (it is harder to hear deep tones than high pitched tones). The larger diameter exhaust tip reduces the volume level of the engine exhaust sound and makes it deeper in tone, which is more pleasant to the human ear. For you audiophiles, think of a larger diameter tip as a bandpass filter to cut off the higher frequency levels. It is for the sound, not to improve performance._ _ _Now, bolting a big diameter tip onto a stock exhaust system would be only for looks and the only reason would be to try to fool people into thinking that the car owner has put a performance exhaust system on the car._ _ _Turbochargers muffle a lot of engine sound by passing the exhaust through the turbine fins, but a larger diameter tip can still deepen the tone of a turbo exhaust note._ _ _Unfortunately, many people don't understand this and equate all exhaust tips with the use by people trying to fool others into believing they have performance exhaust systems._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 9, 2000 - 16:53 - From: Doug
Title: stuff
Message: Jeff, thanks, I am wiping the tears away after laughing for so long. You guys can do what you want with the "atmospheric control", and I fully understand being a scientist and pilot, but trust me it is not worth it! Doc fizzix can plug values into the PV=nRT equation for us and see how much the turbo pressure changes with the largest atmospheric swing from 29.85in to 30.15 in. Yes if you drive from Denver to the ocean and your MBC is set to the absolute high limit, then you will hit the cut-off on the way down--but anyone who is this extreme can back off the MBC or get an EBC. In the real world it will not be a factor. Steve try driving different boost max levels before you decide to limit yourself to 0.85--you will regret it. And Bill I saw an Isuzu with a 4XE1T the other day and was horrified by the stock exhaust--I bet my thumb would barely fit into the tailpipe! Perhaps this is the reason for the large HP increase quoted by Isuzu guys with their mods you mentioned last week.
Mar 10, 2000 - 03:38 - From: Martin Burhouse
Title: Turbo's
Message: Guys, I work for Holset engineering as a Design Engineer. Holset is probably the worlds best turbo manufacturer. It astounds me why you lot bugger about with your turbo's. Do you not think that Lotus matched the turbo to the engine?? Turbo's are designed without almost any safety factor and the
aluminum compressor wheels especially are at the limits of their material properties. Increasing the boost will almost certainly shorten the life of the turbo due to high and low cycle fatigue and increased stresses, especially at altitude where the turbo will overspeed.
Try loosing weight or something if you want to go faster. I think the Elan if a perfectly
balanced driving machine and wouldn't touch my turbo with yours!
What about insurance claims, re-sale?? I wouldn't touch a 'messed about with' Elan.
Keep Elanin' as it was supposed to be.
Mar 10, 2000 - 12:53 - From: Doug
Title: Like a Virgin
Message: Martin, that is a truly valid argument, but you need to drive an Elan with 0.9Bar first before saying you would never change your boost!
Mar 10, 2000 - 15:06 - From: Andy Varey
Title: BBR Upgrade
Message: Sorry - more turbo talk! After visiting my local Lotus dealer today I found out for sure what the BBR conversion does. Bill's correct in his assumption that the ECU is left completely alone. What it does (and please bear in mind I'm not best techie on the subject) is 'fool' the system into thinking the pressure is less than it really is, thereby providing close to 0.9 bar instead of the stock 0.65 bar. Thought I'd also pass on the price list for some upgrades offered by my Lotus dealer (Bell & Colville, West Horsley, Surrey): BBR conversion = £545 UKP, cross-drilled front brake-discs and Mintex pads = £495 UKP, stainless steel performance exhaust system = £645 UKP, all of the above package = £1545. Incidentally, what's the update on that ALDL / ECU reader thing someone was working on a while back - I'm certainly still interested in getting my hands on a Tech-1-type unit. See you tomorrow all who are at Donington!
Mar 10, 2000 - 18:25 - From: Steve P
Title: BBR respond!
Message: Following my "Mr. Angry" ;-) message to BBR, they have replied. I think I've rattled their cage!! One of the guys who developed the Elan upgrade responded, saying everyone has been happy with their upgrade; yes the box does limit the MAP output, and in his opinion there are different but no better ways of increasing the boost pressure. He then went on to tell me that the only way to read some ECU software was with a scanning electron microscope...... Hmmmmm. In otherwords they have obviously not been able to get access to the Elans ECU code and PROM data. I've replied asking what happens in the event of wastegate failure?! The MAP modifier is apparently more complicated than I suggested to him ........... I have to admit that I did spot a 100uF 25V Capacitor in the box as well! However I really can't understand what's magic about it from my test. If you simulate the MAP input to the box, the output simply tracks it until you hit 4.1V, maybe they've also stuck a resistor ~4.7k in there as well to increase the fuel supply slightly too? I'll keep you posted if they respond further. Hope the rain stays off for Donnington tomorrow. If anyone's interested I've a BBR kit looking for a home....How about £499 Andy? ;-) That does of course include the 10 minutes fitting time!! Cheers, Steve
Mar 10, 2000 - 20:32 - From: will
Title: for martin
Message: have you ever heard of Garret turbo's?
Mar 10, 2000 - 22:26 - From: Doug
Title: boost, upgrades
Message: Well, the truth about BBR comes out! I like the "electron microscope" comment---shows they really are a classy outfit! Obviously they are more interested in your money than their own upgrade. Also those prices for brakes and exhaust are pretty high. The EBC parts are much cheaper as is Bill's exhaust system!
Mar 11, 2000 - 10:26 - From: Bill Luton
Title: BBR
Message: I would be under the impression that the comment about the "electron microscope" was more in jest than in seriousness. I have used the phrase "get out your slide ruler" when discussing with people that they must sit down and, with their own elbow grease and calculations, figure out their mathematical problem (most often tire clearance with lowering springs). I don't really expect anyone to use an actual slide rule. I do see a direct correlation between an electron microscope and a Tech I, both are pieces of equipment that I don't have and can't afford. The last time I checked with Kent Moore (GM authorized tool distributor), the Tech I cost right about the same price as a mint condition Lotus Elan M100, with software additional (Lotus software would likely only be available to a Lotus authorized dealer and the programs differ between Isuzu and Storm enough that they are not
interchangeable). That would allow only downloading and uploading with no provisions for changing the program. To do that would require an interface to transfer the program onto a PC and even more additional software to read and modify the program. I can see exactly where that commentary is coming from and the direct relationship of both as used in a
metaphor._ _ _The thing that really confuses me is that the consensus of the group is that the computer program does not need to be modified to make boost changes and improve power output. BBR agrees with the group and has offered a kit that takes a different approach than bleeding the wastegate actuator trigger line to fool the wastegate into
opening later. I would expect wide range protests if the BBR kit included modifying the computer because this would conflict with the group opinion that the computer can be left alone. I'm not seeing why there is a problem when both BBR and the group is in agreement. The only real complaints are that the BBR kit contains less pieces than expected for the price they ask. Ignoring research and development,
marketing and insurance expenses, the real test would be as to the effectiveness of the kit and if it does what it says it does, and it doesn't appear that this is going to happen. It's one thing to say that they are asking too much for their product and another thing to say that their product does not work as they say it works, and without testing it, it would be best to leave the second comment out of discussion._ _ _One final question: If the BBR kit were to be sold for $100 or even $200, would that quell some of the negativity? Is the large price for the small box of parts really the root of the
skepticism?_ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 11, 2000 - 10:31 - From: david moore
Title: All going wrong
Message: Just 4 weeks left of Elan driving for me before I move to the USA. Why then has my courtesy light decided to stay on when I close the door and why have the metal clips snapped under my seat dropping the seating position by about 2 inches? If anyone has any ideas about the first question I'd be most grateful (I can't even see what turns the light on and off!). The second question probably has something to do with my weight (is 12 stone too heavy for an Elan) but if anyone knows where to get the metal clips that would be great. Any offers for the car I'm leaving behind??
Mar 11, 2000 - 12:01 - From: Doug
Title: BBR
Message: I think the whole problem I (we) have with BBR is that they are a reputable company, but are giving us the shaft and masquerading their product as something it is not! I'm sure they know more about turbos, engines, etc than all of us combined. Their other products seem to be of the caliber they have their reputation on, whereas the "Elan Upgrade" is nothing more than any plumber could design!--and I'm glad we have weeded them out! Sure the answer is to reprogram the computer, so it flows like natural up to the new limit--Ian was able to read the computer codes, so likely they could too if they wanted. The bottom line is getting taken to the cleaners and being a 'chump' for blowing your money when you can do the same 'upgrade' from the help of your 'friends' for pennies! Without a fuel-cut defense, I believe the MBC is a better avenue than the BBR kit with its potential for destruction is anyway! I'll say what I said before: if you want more than 0.9Bar of boost, get a bigger turbo, get a 'piggyback' computer for the ECU, get an EBC, get a Quaife with Aluminum flywheel and better clutch, get Bill's exhaust, get the engine blueprinted and rebuilt properly, and then go kick some ass!! Boy do I wish I had the $$$ to do all that!
Mar 11, 2000 - 12:03 - From: Doug
Title: Courtesy Lights
Message: david, just "push in" the switch for the headlights to turn the courtesy lights off--it is a weird switch!
Mar 11, 2000 - 14:19 - From: Steve P
Title: BBR is MBC!
Message: Bill, the BBR kit does bleed the wastegate actuator. It vents the tube to the atmosphere via the restrictor. All they are doing in effect is giving you a three setting MBC with the restrictors. I believe that Doug has disconnected his BCV, which is exactly what the BBR instructions tell you to do. As Doug says the scary thing is that the BBR kit kills the engine cut if overboost occurs!!! I think it's a bit rich having to pay all that money to increase the risk of damaging your engine :-( I'll let you know what they say about this. I just happen to have a 1991 US book
which goes into some detail about the GM ECU which looks remarkably like the Elans, including the "flashing" dashboard light! No doubt GM had a generic unit that it used across its engine range at that time. All the trouble codes etc. are identical to ours. What is interesting is that it's the PROM chip that is the key to the particular vehicle not the microprocessor. All look-up tables for fueling/ignition/engine cut etc. are in the PROM. Lotus obviously recalibrated this chip for the Elan. I don't believe that this can't be updated by an ECU specialist. I guess the bottom line is £££$$$$. You don't spend time and money recalibrating an engine PROM on a limited production car like the Elan. You spend time doing that on mass production vehicles where the returns are far higher! As BBR say themselves about their Star*Chips "The only way to tune a modern computer controlled engine." Something slightly ironic about that given their Elan upgrade don't you think?!!!
Mar 11, 2000 - 15:40 - From: Bill Luton
Title: BBR Kit
Message: Dimitri's commentary was: "It bypass the 'Boost Control Frequency Valve' (located on back of air filter housing/trash can, it's cylindrical with clear cap) by joining the two tubes together with a plastic restrictor". That description would indicate that the restrictors go into one of the atmosphere reference lines that are plumbed into the air filter box or intake pipe for those with intake systems. That isn't the wastegate trigger line which goes from the outlet side of the compressor housing to the wastegate by a short hose. Without seeing something like a diagram myself, I can only go by the description which is leading away from the wastegate line and to some sort of atmosphere or
vacuum reference line._ _ _The ECUs are Delco and externally look the same. However, each manufacturer has fine tuned the programming for the specific vehicles. An example is that the 91 Isuzu DOHC ECU can not be uploaded with a 91 Geo Storm DOHC computer program. We tried this and fried the ECU (local Chevy dealership). There are several primary lines of programming that are radically different between the two and the Isuzu ECU with the Storm program went into panic mode looking for those missing lines of primary programming and left the check engine light on solid with no trouble codes (scratch one ECU as toast). Now, the Storm DOHC ECU can be installed in the Isuzu DOHC car and will run the engine quite well, as I have been doing for about a year now. The computer, though,
differs, and can not be interchanged. I would expect the same difficulties with the Lotus program, and there is no way I would ever risk damaging one of those, they are only $650, but would take about six months for delivery from England strapped to the back of a sea turtle._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 11, 2000 - 16:04 - From: Rod Little
Title: BBR up close
Message: Bill, your comments just above this post about the BBR tube just behind the air filter would appear correct based on the car I saw today with BBR fitted, its a little white think placed into an existing tube that has been cut, the other thing I noticed was a small black box with wires in and out attached to the engine bay bulkhead, pictures send to Doug.
Mar 11, 2000 - 16:06 - From: Rod Little
Title: BBR "value"
Message: I think we must not forget that BBR have done the R&D and marketing as Bill pointed out. But its still way to expensive and at 100ukp, fitted it would make much more sense.
Mar 11, 2000 - 16:08 - From: Rod Little
Title: Donnington Today
Message: I just want to thank all the chaps that made the effort to turn out today for the Donnington meeting. I really enjoyed chatting to everyone, and hope we all went away with a list of "things to do" to our cars ! I have sent Doug the pictures, and am sure as soon as he gets a minute we will see them up on the website.
Mar 11, 2000 - 16:22 - From: Steve P
Title: Migraine!!!
Message: Bill, I've got a headache over this one ;-) How is the BBR mod different in principal to an MBC if both vent the wastegate capsule to the
atmosphere in a controlled way. Aren't BBR just doing it in a different place for ease of installation (another point they made to me)? I don't have your experience with interchanging ECUs', and I don't doubt that there is not universal interchangability. However, the point is that the PROM (the book states Delco 6079F0) enables the same ECU to be 'Calibrated for use in different applications'. The books words not mine ;-)
Mar 11, 2000 - 16:33 - From: Rod Little
Title: ECU Programming
Message: Steve, is this perhaps a reference to the fact that you could reprogram to EPROM ? Certainly we know one guy that has changed the 0.9 limit in the ECU up to 1.1 and now uses the MBC to keep to 0.9. Download the EPROM, make changes and make a new EPROM ?? Found a new M100 ECU for £250ukp+VAT, at Donnington. God knows what I would do with it if bought it though ?
Mar 11, 2000 - 19:19 - From: Joel
Title: experience with SJ SportsCars / UK
Message: I was wondering if anyone has dealt with SJ SportsCars in the UK for M100 parts. If so--are they reliable and are the parts/service OK? How do their prices compare? I'm
looking for new shifter cables, but not in a big rush, so thought I might try them as a source--or does anyone out there have another suggesting for these critical parts. Joel
Mar 11, 2000 - 20:09 - From: Rod Little
Title: Shifter Cables / UK Dealers
Message: Joel, just pick up the phone and ring around a few dealers, probably worth trying Deans 01895 623231 - they tend to buy up parts stock from Lotus.
Mar 11, 2000 - 23:43 - From: Scott
Title: misc. ramblings...
Message: Just checking in. First, follow-up on my dead headlamp pod control module. Found a replacement from an '87 Fiero. Cost me $20(bone yard pickings). Better than the $140+ OEM. Received my parts from Top End. Got the ITG highflow intake and the custom bypass valve. What's been everyone's opinion on the workmanship? I was really disappointed on the welding they did. Looks like the guy needed glasses. Globs of welding here, lack of welding there. I know its just going in the engine bay but it still bothers me. Also, I've read where some owners have seen leaks coming from the
transmission underside, but looking like coolant. Someone said that the overflow is above this area and not too worry. Well, I too had this leak. In pulling off the manifold intake
tubing (to install the bypass valve) I decided to investigate. I found the leak to be a vacuum actuated valve that I think controls the flow of coolant to the heater core. The valve has disintegrated around the flanges that the clamps hold on to. Has anyone had to replace this part??? Any clues as to whether its a GM part or Lotus. No real marking on it except for "2R90D" stamped onto the metal part. If anyone has an idea, I would love to hear from them. Later -Scott
Mar 12, 2000 - 11:49 - From: Chris
Title: engine-problems
Message: I am from germany, so my english (specially technical english) is not good.
The engine of my Elan stalls by shifting from cold to warm running mode.
When I hold the gas (at the moment the engine "tries" to stall) on the normal idle rpm for 1 to 3 minutes the engine won't stall anymore until the next start.
Please help !
Mar 12, 2000 - 20:03 - From: Dean
Title: Headlight Replacement
Message: I wrote up a procedure for replacing a headlight on the Elan. Access my site http://home.att.net/~giacopassid/lotus_m100_2.htm for a complete description. I only takes about 15 minutes to do the job.
Mar 12, 2000 - 20:06 - From: Dean
Title: Left Rear Wheel Lock-up
Message: I went for a spirited ride yesterday (Left hand drive, USA. Under heavy braking the left rear wheel wanted to lock. Does anyone have any suggestions as to the reason.
Mar 12, 2000 - 20:49 - From: Doug
Title: Lock-up
Message: Dean, the calipers have a tendency to freeze up. Knowing that you do not drive the car daily, I would suspect this as a cause. Take the calipers off and give them a thorough cleaning or overhaul if needed!
Mar 13, 2000 - 05:07 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Seat fixings
Message: Dave,
My seat has also collapsed in the past due to clip failure and I made some new clips out of a metal coat hanger.
I have some pictures somewhere, I'll dig them out.
Great to meet everyone at Donington.
Any details on the car your leaving?
Richard (14st)
M100 Register
Mar 13, 2000 - 08:10 - From: Martin Burhouse
Title: Donnington
Message: Sorry I missed you guys at the service station, I got drunk with my girlfriends parents Friday night (essential) so I was feeling a bit caned. Did anyone see me, I was in the silk red Elan with a graze on the front bumper from hitting one of those metal rods in the carpark at Donnington which became invisible without any red and white tape on it, or was it my hangover?...I was going to park along side you lot but I felt a bit guilty for not showing up earlier.
Top day (apart from my accident)
Mar 13, 2000 - 08:31 - From: Jason
Title: Donnington
Message: I won't waste time saying how good donnington was! Nice to meet you all.
What I have though is a fair amount of digital vid footage. I'll convert this to stills when I get the time & send it to doug for posting here.
Martin B - I think I probably filmed your car - I was trying to get a pic of all the colours / interior trim combinations.
Also got some good video footage of the "procession" on the road. Shame my cameraman was so poor :)
The swearing is pretty funny though as he headed towards the footwell (took his seat belt off to film the cars behind) as we braked hard in to the roundabout.
If anyone knows how I can produce small vid clips off this please email me.
Having been underwhelmed when I saw the 340 R at the motorshow, I thought it looked amazing when on the road.
Shame the M250 wasn't on display. Lotus were conspicuous in their absence also.
Mar 13, 2000 - 09:08 - From: Rod Little
Title: Lotus Ltd at Donnington
Message: From what I remember Jason, the only time Lotus actually attended was last year. Noticed some dealer saying they would take M250 orders, but its still guess work as to even what engine will be in the final car.
Mar 13, 2000 - 09:12 - From: Richard
Title: At Donington
Message: Martin, at Donington was yours B13 VCS?
Richard
M100 Register
Mar 13, 2000 - 09:50 - From: Martin Burhouse
Title: Donnington - for Richard
Message: My Elan was the silk red one K834 DNM, I have never seen another the same colour apart from the s2 I saw at Donnington. Shame I'm not on any of the pickies!!
Mar 13, 2000 - 16:34 - From: charlie
Title: ecu programming
Message: if anyone wants to give me half the price of a tech 1 tool calibrated for lotus, i'd be happy to sell you a replacement =)
anyway seriously its trivial to build an interface to a computer/laptop that can read the codes and more, not quite as handy as a tech-1 but not as expensive, and you can always get a libretto and use that as a hand held diag tool.
as for the ECU being an off the shelf with lotus mods, thats close, apparently they redid the whole thing, but since its just a bunch of settings and tunable values i'd be
surprised if they hadn't.
arrgggh for bill too i just had my rotors replaced *again* they asked me if i wanted em, i said no (considering half the car was in the box) they have probably binned them by now. but i will call and ask, i have one caliper and maybe a rotor from last time.
Mar 13, 2000 - 16:36 - From: charlie
Title: rotors - bill
Message: i just called ferrari los gatos and they still have all the bits from my car lying around, so you're in luck bill.
theres rotors, pads, master brake cylinder, exhaust downpipe, sun visor, wheel bearings, various hoses and valves and a bunch of other stuff i have a nice long list around.
i will pick them up tomorrow morning and fedex them to you.
Mar 13, 2000 - 16:45 - From: charlie
Title: eprom reprogramming
Message: you can't actually reprogram the chip that's with the ECU its a PROM , not an EPROM, however since speed is unlikely an issue you can replace the PROM with an EPROM but to make it more expensive/likely/conspiracy they added a module around the PROM so it doesn't fit into a standard blower, this is a trivial thing to deal with though someone already worked out the pin connection details. Be warned though EPROMs do have a more limited life , its supposed to be 20+ years, but i've seen
deterioration in 3-5 years (which is not typical, but is possible) replacing the chip every three years is overkill but doesn't hurt (reprogramming it will shorten the life again). i'd hate to think what would happen to a ECU with a randomly changed set of data, again its unlikely but is possible.
also the headlamp control pod, the parts on the board are about $5-$10 depending where you go so you can replace it cheaply if you cant find a replacement module at the scrappy, unless the boards badly burned.
Mar 14, 2000 - 03:48 - From: Peter Seow
Title: SJ Sports cars
Message: My experience with them was positive but they DO NOT stock much parts. I had to wait 3 weeks before my header tank reached S'pore(2 weeks in u.k). Luckily my header tank was showing a few stress cracks but was
definitely on it's way out. I carried it in my car....... It broke up 2 months after it arrived......... I fixed the tank up on the spot....... I noticed
coolant flowing after I parked my car......I got a few water bottles after I returned .......
They don't have stock of seals either. Peter smiths is better. Chris Neils have the stocks but are usually a few quids or so more.
Mar 14, 2000 - 08:07 - From: Richard
Title: Heated Mirror Timer
Message: Anyone know what the heated mirror timer module is off/also on (UK models), is it capable of handling the current that the turbo water cooling pump requires?
Alternately what have other people used?
Richard
M100 Register
Mar 14, 2000 - 12:16 - From: Chris
Title: Upgrades
Message: Which upgrade gives the best performance for the best price?
Mar 14, 2000 - 12:39 - From: Rod Little
Title: Turbo Timer, upgrades
Message: Richard, I would stick with a real turbo timmer - lots of companies do them.
Chris, best performance upgrade for the money, was my Tarox front brakes ( discs and pads ) - I also believe the Greenstuff ones are rather good. AFTER you have done that upgrade read back through the message board about "MBC".
Mar 14, 2000 - 12:51 - From: Chris
Title: MBC? Brakes?
Message: Where can I buy optimized Brakes (possibly in Germany/Europe)? What is a MBC?
Mar 14, 2000 - 17:41 - From: George
Title: Hey Chris
Message: Don't know about the availability of brake parts in Europe since I reside in the U.S. MBC stands for: Manual Boost Control
Mar 14, 2000 - 18:38 - From: Rod Little
Title: Brakes for Chris
Message: Chris, you could just follow the links from this web site for upgrades and then Brakes to http://www.chrisneil.demon.co.uk/specialoffers.htm for a UK Lotus Dealer with M100 brake parts or direct to Tarox at http://www.tarox.com where there are email links that you could use to ask about dealers in your area.
Mar 14, 2000 - 21:05 - From: George
Title: No boost.
Message: Well, just drove my car again. Everything sounds fine, fuel pressure regulator is giving the correct fuel/air mixture. However, one thing: No boost into the engine. Checked all the connecting hoses, nothing is loose, getting high boost on the gauge and sounds great, but infact, I am running on just four cylinders without the turbo. Couldn't figure out why; waste gate problem?
Mar 14, 2000 - 23:27 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Charlie; Brakes
Message: Charlie: Send those disks on over. I was talking with my brake supplier a couple days ago and he said that if he couldn't match the rotors in a cross reference, he would have two piece rotors made up from custom center "hats" with racing bolt on disk rings._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 15, 2000 - 06:48 - From: Andy Y
Title: Brake stuff
Message: From my exp - I can verify the Fiero brake pad rumors - It's an exact fit! A friend of mine (who doesn't do this site) found a GM # on the rotor that matched up to a set @ NAPA autoparts. I don't know if that'll help? Maybe save you some time...Andy
Mar 15, 2000 - 08:03 - From: Richard
Title: Turbo Timer
Message: Rod,
Do you have any sources of these timers?
Richard
Mar 15, 2000 - 08:29 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Brakes
Message: Andy: Matching pads isn't a problem, we have matched four different grades of racing pads for both front and rear of the Elan. That information has been in the online catalog for over a month (http://www.isuzuperformance.com/bills/brakes.html#smc). EBC's North American distributor is apparently in bankruptcy or having some sort of trouble as they niether answer their telephone nor return telephone calls, but with the VGX, Hawk, and Carbon Kevlar pads, that is covered._ _ _We have the SMC brake hoses also (http://www.isuzuperformance.com/bills/brakehoses.html#smc)._ _ _(By the way, Goodridge just settled a wrongful death case out of court in Arizona or New Mexico. The passenger of a car equipped with their hoses was killed after the hoses failed causing a rather nasty accident between a small car and a diesel truck at the end of a highway offramp last Fall. The same thing that
happened to Jason's Elan last October, except he wasn't at highway speed when his Goodridge hoses failed.)_ _ _The rotors are the last piece of the puzzle and once we have those matched, we will have race quality US alternatives for the entire system._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 15, 2000 - 08:31 - From: Dom Blundell
Title: Exhausts
Message: I need to get a replacement exhaust and have heard of a few. SJ Sportscars do one (not made by them) for about £200 with a claimed 10bhp improvement, has anyone heard anything about them? Also can anyone tell me what the deal is with ferretic and non-ferretic? Does one rust and the other not?
Mar 15, 2000 - 08:47 - From: Ian Levy
Title: ECU EPROM, Tech-1 replacement
Message: The ECU contains an EPROM, not a PROM. It's on a small daughterboard (called a MEMCAL - MEMory and CALibration package) that contains miscellaneous other stuff. On the Elan memcal, there's specifically the knock sensor signal conditioning circuitry. The EPROM is a bog standard 27-series EPROM which can be programmed by anything from the last 15 years.
As to what's in it, well, bits of it are standard GM stuff, bits were written in-house by Lotus (supposedly). Certainly the
actual code is different for the SE N/A, SE Turbo and S2 in the UK. Some of the calibrations are also different.
I have a copy of Code ANXZ (SE Turbo Domestic) [the code is printed on the label on the outside of the ECU] in original form, semi-disassembled form and with modified turbo cutout which anyone that wants it can have (within reason, as long as it's not sold for profit, blah blah blah). This modified chip will do exactly the same as the SuperChips, BBR chip etc. but won't cost you 400 quid :->
Again, if anyone knows 68HC11 assembly and wants to help decoding the entire program, mail me direct.
As for the software Tech-1 project (along with Andy Whittaker (www.andywhittaker.com)), buying a house and other such things have sidetracked me. Anyone with 20quid and a few hours to spare could collect data that would speed things along - see http://www.syntaxis-technology.co.uk/lotus.html for details.
Ian
Mar 15, 2000 - 09:24 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Exhaust
Message: We've received comments back from our 1991 Isuzu Impulse RS customers that they have measured a 6 HP increase with our turbo down pipe and another 11 HP increase with the precat eliminator. That is 17 HP with the stock main catalytic converter and the stock 1 7/8 inch diameter exhaust system behind it (Doug, it looks smaller at the tail pipe because they use two 1 1/2 inch tail pipes out the muffler on the Impulse stock system). The down pipe is the same design for the Elan as for the 91 Impulse RS and the precat eliminator is the exact same unit for both. The big difference is that the Elan turbo back exhaust system includes a high flow main catalytic converter, 2 1/2 inch exhaust piping, and Magnaflow straight through muffler, a complete system. You can expect a very easy 20-25+ HP from the system. Mark Haines wrote a review on January 29, 2000 that you can go through the archive and read (http://www.lotuselancentral.com/january00mb.htm). I should have a big box of ceramic coated exhaust parts show up today to fill orders, the Elan exhaust has been a pretty hot item._ _ _Here is something interesting, the UK cars are listed as "non-catalyst", but the parts catalog shows they are equipped with the pre-cat._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 15, 2000 - 11:09 - From: Rod Little
Title: Windstop - Serious Auto
Message: Has anyone bought and fitted the ELAN Windstop from Serious Auto, we just got a couple shipped to the UK and find the company now admitting they are just Miata ( MX5 ) windstops, and they have no idea how to fit them to an ELAN.
Mar 15, 2000 - 11:18 - From: Rod
Title: Turbo Timer
Message: Richard, take a look at the owners list on this site, William fitted one, you could try emailing him for details. Think one of the UK ( London ) guys mentioned fitting a timer a while back now, but forget who though. Am sure a quick web search should find you something.
Mar 15, 2000 - 11:36 - From: Jason
Title: Exhaust
Message: Bill,
As far as I'm aware the UK exhaust is 3 sections - Manifold, Centre pipe (straight & incredibly cheap!), and back box. The S2 had a Cat fitted - but not the S1. (as far as Im aware).
Mar 15, 2000 - 12:40 - From: Chris
Title: Brakes
Message: What parts of the Brakes have to be changed for best results?
Mar 15, 2000 - 12:41 - From: Thomas
Title: Turbo timer
Message: I have a turbo timer fitted to my Elan about 6 months ago and it works great. It's a GReddy turbo timer. I only cost $100 US plus installation. There's a couple of setting you can program also. It's pretty good unit in fact. You can pretty much go to any car performance/accessories stores to get one.
Mar 15, 2000 - 12:54 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Exhaust
Message: The pre-catalytic converter is shown in the parts catalog as being on all turbo models. The Pre-cat is bolted to the O2 manifold before the down pipe, it is a large round cylindrical piece covered by lots of heat shields. Apparently, Isuzu produced the engines with the pre-cat and shipped them as a unit to Lotus, Lotus then included the pre-cat on all models, or so the parts catalog indicates. The parts catalog shows the main catalytic converter beneath the vehicle as being excluded on LHD models._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 15, 2000 - 13:21 - From: Stephen Jones
Title: Aftermarket Wheels/ geometry
Message: Has anyone in the uk fitted 17 inch wheels to their Elan,
If so is it true you need a different offset for the rears?
Also have they changed handling and steering for the better or worse.
Does anyone know the suspension geometry settings for a UK car, are they different to the US version because they wear 16 inch wheels?
Mar 15, 2000 - 13:39 - From: Rod
Title: Oh no not wheels again !
Message: Stephan, wheels have been discussed in the past, could you take a read back through the board and look at the owners section where you will find owners with 17" fitted. You can do it, but its the offset
that's strange on the Elan its 60 ( I think ) you can get 48 in aftermarket wheels if you look hard enough but no one has found 60 yet. If you go with 48 or less, then the wheels will stick out more, and although there is the obvious danger of bashing them against kerbs etc, there is the more annoying problem of them splattering mud and road rubbish all up the sides of you beautiful car. I am looking for nice 16" with 48+ offset, then go for 225x16x40 rubber, maybe then add the S2 suspension pack to my S1. Oh and check the weigh of afterfit wheels, try and get as close to the
original wheels as possible.
Mar 15, 2000 - 15:23 - From: Steve P
Title: CATS
Message: Bill, I've checked the service notes. On the non-cat cars the manual states "A cast iron outlet elbow connects with a starter catalyst housing. On non-cat versions this housing is an empty chamber." Hope this is of help :-)
Mar 15, 2000 - 18:51 - From: Bill Luton
Title: pre-cat
Message: I seem to remember a notation for the "brick", which seemed odd. The empty precat is a nightmare for flow. Bill Luton
Mar 16, 2000 - 03:00 - From: will
Title: wheels wheels wheels
Message: hey for you guys looking for wheels. check out the new issue of Super Street. they have a big article about rims. you can call and get specifics from the manufacturers. the rims i have are 17". they are called ryner. they are direct from Japan. if i find the number i will post it. does anyone have a spare soft top laying around? i need a couple of
pieces for my top.
Mar 16, 2000 - 07:06 - From: Chris
Title: K&N Filter
Message: Hi!
Does someone know the filter number for a K&N drop in filter?
Mar 16, 2000 - 07:40 - From: Rod Little
Title: Air Filter
Message: Perhaps you could cross reference the K&N to one of these : Coopers EG 939 , Crossland CF 9164 , Fram CA 4744A , Multipart ASU 1816 , Unipart GFE 1123 ; all of which I am told fit.
Mar 16, 2000 - 09:29 - From: Dan
Title: M100 Auto-x class
Message: The Auto-x rep of our local sports car club (Akron Sports Car Club)who just purchased an Esprit, informed me that the M100 Elan is classified in Auto-x as B Stock[SCCA "stock" classes do allow some mods -
tires (must use same diam&width wheel), swaybars, etc....MBC, turbo mods, etc not allowed]; it seems that the class is dominated by Mazda Miatas! ASCC members are "national" caliber autocrossers and there's a few local "hot shoes" running Miatas.....hmmm....could the M100 Elan be a "ringer" in B Stock? Anybody out there have any auto-x experience with their M100?
Mar 16, 2000 - 10:20 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Solo II Classifications
Message: Last year, the IsuzuWeb compiled model specifications for all of of the Isuzu cars as well as the Lotus Elan M100 and submitted them to the SCCA Solo Board for formal classification and reclassification of all models. It seems they took some of our advice and did reclassify a lot of the Isuzu cars but failed to classify many more. The Elan M100 has not been formally classified as of December 1999, and I have not know of any changes to the classifications after that date. The Lotuses in B stock are: Lotus 7, 7A, Eclat, Elan +2, Elite 2+2, Elite, 1216cc (and the Miatas). A Stock is: Lotus Elan RWD, Esprit, Europa Twin Cam, Europa w/ Renault engine (and the Porsches, BMW z# and Ms, 300ZXs, RX7s). Because there is no formal classification for the Elan, the decision is left up to the race steward (guy running the race) and if they go by the engine, the M100 would end up with the Impulse RS Turbo AWD in the G Stock class with the Integras, Preludes, Eclipses, and most four and six cylinder turbos by US and Japanese manufacturers. The Impulse RS AWD and Elan M100 have very similar
performance numbers, but they tend to class the Elan higher than its Isuzu cousin because of handling, and it would likely be placed in A Stock. Running stock allows only treaded tires, OEM or OEM size wheels, adjustable
dampening struts, racing brake pads, front sway bar upgrade only, stock engine and electronic system, and cat back exhaust. Stock does not allow larger wheels and wider tires, coilovers, cross drilled or slotted rotors, strut braces, engine bolt ons, cone filters, down pipes, or any modification to the turbo system whatsoever. SCCA is really restrictive on turbo modifications and bans any change from stock, or the car would be classed in A Modified with the Hennessy Vipers. With turbo modification, if the M100 had a back seat, they might give you the option of running Street Modified with the Saleen Mustang Turbos and Supercharged models._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 16, 2000 - 11:29 - From: Dom
Title: Double S Exhausts
Message: Has anyone had fitted to their car or heard anything about Double S exhausts? Their system sounds quite good and seems to be reasonably priced.
Mar 16, 2000 - 12:52 - From: Rod Little
Title: Double S Exhaust Systems
Message: There were many problems getting the Double S to fit, would suggest that if you get one you make the seller fit it for you. There are many other stainless systems available though, I have one made specially for Haydon Cars ( UK Dealer ), and I know of others available.
Mar 17, 2000 - 01:44 - From: michael bedard
Title: platinum motors l.a.
Message: Apparently I am one of the first to experience a seal failure in the steering rack . After some research I found a seal kit at Dave Bean's for 55.95 as opposed to $240.00 from Lotus. If anyone is unlucky enough to need one they have several more at that price. The silver lining to this story is discovering Platinum Motors in Costa Mesa.This is the only place to go for Lotus needs in So. Cal. Ask for David and you will be treated to a pleasant and fair experience. Be sure to check out the ever present collection of interesting Lotus and
Lamborghini cars. Michael
Mar 17, 2000 - 02:57 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Double S Exhausts
Message: I had a new S/S back box (straight through "sports" version) fitted last June actually at Double S's factory in Cullompton Devon and it fitted fine, there was an earlier problem where the back box fouled the rear valance and mine was the test car to see if they had sorted it, out which they had.
On my S1 Turbo SE there is no middle empty pre cat box just a straight pipe from the downpipe to the rear box.
Mar 17, 2000 - 12:23 - From: dave simkin
Title: elan door panels
Message: does anyone have a lead on any used elan door panels , i have a friend that is in desperate need of some
Mar 17, 2000 - 17:29 - From: Chris
Title: Gas/fuel
Message: Hi! What kind of fuel/gas You are using for Your Elan 95 or 98? Could any fuel/gas pipes of the elan get to hot if the aircondition is/was removed?
Mar 17, 2000 - 17:52 - From: Chris
Title: Brakes/MBC
Message: First to the brakes:
Do I only have to change the disc & pads or should I make an upgrade with these two + calipers?
Can I buy a MBC somewhere? (Maybe used)
Mar 17, 2000 - 20:37 - From: Doug
Title: brakes
Message: Christian, my 'opinion' is that the Elan brakes work well only if maintained well. The best thing for them is to be sure they are clean and not sticking--this may require nearly or even overhauling the calipers. Also a well-done brake line bleed can improve brake 'feel' and performance too! Now, if the brakes are working well and you want more, then the upgrade is best but costs a whole lot! Others think the rotor and pad replacements help and this is certainly cheap enough to be worth trying.
Mar 18, 2000 - 17:25 - From: Scott
Title: Headlight control module & coolant leak
Message: First, I would like to publicly thank Dan. He held my hand all through my headlight module problem. Together, we were able to find out something that will benefit all Elan owners. The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans
Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93/'94 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! In regards to the coolant leak, it was the heater valve. This valve is part plastic/part metal. The metal flange was 60% gone. Upon trying to replace this part, I was notified that the design was discontinued due to this problem. I was able to use a generic heater valve by Four Seasons, part # 74612. No more leaks, no more drips...another successful weekend. Scott
Mar 19, 2000 - 16:48 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Headlight Modules
Message: Somebody describe these Firebird headlight modules, where they are located on the cars, and what years they are from. We have a half dozen late-80s Firebirds
at the local yard and I have no idea where these things are or what they look like._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 19, 2000 - 20:22 - From: Scott
Title: Headlight module
Message: The module is 5"x5", black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word "GUIDE" written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight.
Mar 20, 2000 - 00:56 - From: Joel
Title: K&N Air Filter
Message: Re: Chris--just in case you have not found it by now the correct P/N for the drop in K&N filter is E-2350--and it works great!--Joel
Mar 20, 2000 - 03:35 - From: Rod
Title: M100 Door Panels
Message: D J Dean ( UK ) have new M100 door panels for 50ukp. Its JUST the "black" plastic bit, no carpet/leather bits.
Mar 20, 2000 - 09:15 - From: Craig
Title: BBR Conversions - Sorry to revisit this one
Message: Firstly, hello all.... I am new to Lotus Elans, I have had mine a week (H plate, SE Turbo, Red). The brakes are crap - getting some EBC pads and discs fitted the end of this week. The roof leeks (as suspected) and it seems to Stutter/'miss' a little when accelerating hard sometimes around 4000
rpm (any suggestions)
I have had a good look at the board and seen a lot of discussion about the BBR conversion - £445+vat UKP fitted - is it really worth it?
Thanks in advance all
Mar 20, 2000 - 10:01 - From: Dan
Title: Headlamp lift control module
Message: Bill -- on the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it.
Mar 20, 2000 - 10:39 - From: Craig
Title: BBR Response
Message: Just had this response from BBR regarding their conversion "the engine will not lose its driving characteristics. Power is still
available in the same engine speed band as the original vehicle except
that there is a lot more of it.
General service specifications are not affected but advice is given on
any suggested changes.
If the original boost is not exceeded whilst driving, fuel consumption
will remain unchanged.
Parts fitted by BBR-GTi Ltd in the conversion kit come with 12 months
warranty."
Is this all true - those of you who have one fitted ?
Mar 20, 2000 - 12:42 - From: Bill Luton
Title: BBR
Message: I don't believe you are going to find much in the way of a response to questions about the BBR reboost kit. The only person who is using one is Dimitri. One person purchased one and was upset with the large price for the small box of parts and the last statement was that they would not be installing the product on their car. Most of the speculation is just that, and little commentary, if any, is based on actually testing the product to see if it actually does what it says it does. Price, rather than performance, seems to be the biggest bone of contention._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 20, 2000 - 14:44 - From: Steve P
Title: Craig
Message: Craig, If you want a BBR reboost kit I have a brand new one for sale! You can have it at half retail, but I'd still feel I was ripping you off. You are far better with an MBC. The BBR is simply an
aluminum restrictor in the vent pipe to the wastegate, and a plastic pipe to bypass the engine's boost control solenoid, yes just an MBC on the end of a tube! The box which you pay over £400 stops the engine fuel cut-out operating at the new maximum boost of around 0.94bar. BBR have so far not replied to my concerns regarding 'knock' prevention, and overboost protection! I have no doubt that their kit will give you
plenty of extra boost, however my opinion is you are probably better to install an MBC like Doug and keep the fuel cut-out operational :-) If BBR do reply I'll post their response.
Mar 20, 2000 - 15:08 - From: charlie
Title: stuff
Message: yup sorry for the wrong info on the EPROM, i received an original from randy and its an EPROM alright, i was getting incorrect info from another poster early on =)
anyway now i have enough info to knock up these chips =)
Mar 20, 2000 - 15:12 - From: charlie
Title: first meeting of the NoCAL lotus club
Message: was yesterday =)
as with the socal club three people went on it, myself, david s.and jamie. all reds =)
we had a spirited drive around the 17, santa cruz , skyline blvd and down the hwy 1 to lunch. with only one minor incident =)
anyway next time we'll give you more notice, we are talking track days too, supposedly FLG is doing a track day. so i'm waiting to find out cost/where etc. i'd imagine buttonwillow.
anyone who wants to be involved in the northern california meets email me your contact details.
Mar 20, 2000 - 16:53 - From: Roger
Title: Speedometer
Message: Help!!! I have just changed the speedo cable and found that the cable had in fact snapped. On replacing the cable my speedometer still
doesn't work at all.
I have checked both end connections twice and found nothing wrong. Before the cable change when my speedo
wasn't working i got a check engine light and used the diagnosis you posted on this
site (works just as you said) I got a speed sensor error although it doesn't appear to be giving an error at all now.
Any suggestions?
Mar 20, 2000 - 18:54 - From: Gary vanDeursen
Title: Speedometer cable
Message: Roger,
The check engine light will come on when the speedometer cable is broken/disconnected, and the car is decelerating.
If you take the end of the cable off at the engine side and spin the cable in your fingers, some one inside the car would be able to see the speedometer move. If it moves, the speedometer should work ...and the problem is in the other end. If the speedometer has a broken part, let me know ..I have some spare internal parts for it. Good luck.
Gary
Mar 21, 2000 - 12:23 - From: Chris
Title: Fuel Pressure Regulator
Message: Is it useful to buy the fuel pressure regulator kit from topendperformance or should I use a MBC only? ___Chris
Mar 21, 2000 - 14:29 - From: Doug
Title: Fuel pressure regulator
Message: Chris, from my experience, I believe the FPR is not necessary on the Elan. I have not done definitive testing to prove this is true, but with our collective experiences we can assume it is. Install a
temporary or permanent fuel/air ratio gauge to check for yourself if you want--or you could figure out how to read your O2 Sensor voltage output while driving instead.
Mar 22, 2000 - 04:21 - From: Rod Little
Title: S2 Suspension
Message: I wonder if anyone has had the Lotus suspension upgrade. I believe its a kit to put S2 suspension onto an S1. I think this might be a good idea when I got up to 16" wheels, but at 300ukp plus fitting, I wonder if its worth it ?
Mar 22, 2000 - 10:40 - From: Roger
Title: Fuel Sender
Message: Thanks for the speedo info gary, turns out the new cable wasn't seated properly.
My fuel gauge has stopped working and I am pretty sure it's the sender unit, I am told this is attached to the fuel pump. Does anyone know if this is a lotus only part?
Thanks Roger.
Mar 22, 2000 - 14:42 - From: George
Title: Hello People
Message: Hey everyone, how is everything going? Rod, for the S2 suspension upgrade, from what I've learned, the handling does not improve much at all. What you get is a choppier ride as well as more road noise than the S1. I just got my fuel pressure regulator not long ago, the way I look at it, maybe the ECU could handle the higher fuel flow demanded by higher boost, however, I just want to be safe. I have my set on 45 psi idle, and 65psi full boost. Finally, I got my car back, turned out that the Cat. Convrtr is screwed, so my mechanic and I decided instead of replacing it, we would just hollow it out.... ;-) No restriction on the flow now... Charlie, are you still looking for some factory wheels?
Mar 22, 2000 - 15:00 - From: charlie
Title: autotech
Message: jamie which autotech meter did you get the 2" one (i think its 3303). also the autotech oil gauge comes with its own sender.
there's a place near me that has most of em in stock. there's white face/silver white/black red/black , nice stuff.
Mar 22, 2000 - 15:13 - From: charlie
Title: wheels
Message: yeah theres a couple of people looking for em..
Mar 22, 2000 - 20:42 - From: Jamie
Title: Autometer Gauge
Message: Charlie I purchased the 2 1/16" Mechanical boost gauge (Part# ATM-3301)for $41.95. If you want the white faced gauge it's part# ATM-4301 at $42.95. I would think the 2" will work fine as well. BTW the part shop by your house isn't Magnum Force is it? If it is, their prices see to be on the high side. You should
order it from Summit Racing (1-800-230-3030). I believe it's cheaper. Also when I ordered the gauges via snail mail, I received it in two days. Not bad.
Mar 22, 2000 - 22:30 - From: charlie
Title: meters
Message: naw its a buggy place new dimensions in santa clara
they have them in stock as well, its nice to see them first.
they do momo, hks and greddy as well as custom build stuff for bugs, but they don't seem to mind other custom =)
Mar 22, 2000 - 23:41 - From: Doug
Title: EBC Brakes
Message: So I finally had time to get my new front EBC rotors and Greenstuff pads installed today! I
proceeded to mash the hell out of them bedding them in afterwards, and I'm surprised to say I am impressed already with them! They are already better than my old set-up (original rotors and replacement pads). I will get a
write-up on installing the front pads and rotors soon. Next project, exhaust . . .
Mar 23, 2000 - 09:34 - From: Victor Adriani
Title: Brake Calipers
Message: Please help! My front caliper is sticking and I just priced a front caliper at $271...ouch. Does anyone know if there is an Isuzu, GM or other equivalent brake caliper that would not
compromise performance/specs.? Doug gave me some extremely helpful suggestions that I will take him up on, but in the meantime I would like to have other options.
Any information that you could share would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance and feel free to call me at 202-637-5204 (w-8:30-4:30 eastern) or (h-301-374-2448) anytime after. Again, thank you. Victor.
Mar 23, 2000 - 11:43 - From: John Caudell
Title: Need Passenger door panel parts
Message: I need a passenger door handle cover (interior). Anyone have a used one or know how to obtain a new one?
Mar 23, 2000 - 15:13 - From: charlie
Title: front calipers.
Message: they are AC delco calipers i have a used one lying around, if its just sticking it could probably be repaired.
you'd have a hard time finding a caliper to compromise performance against the factory ones, i'd pay money to see worse ones on the car.
its unadvisable to replace just one side at a time though, can't remember what i paid for mine but 271 sounds about right
Mar 23, 2000 - 15:22 - From: char
Title: advice sought =)
Message: so i'm toying on what colour to have my battery/oil/boost dials be..
there's the plain black with red pointer...
white face with red pointer and black rim...
white face with red pointer and silver rim... so far i like the look of the white and black rim, it'd be tricky changing the speedo and rev counter but i think the other 3 dials are far enough away for it too still look good, and the increased visibility for the dials could be good too.
..opinions from the panel ? http://www.autometer.com/hp/99catalog/sport_comp/36.html
http://www.autometer.com/hp/99catalog/ultra_lite/51.html
Mar 23, 2000 - 19:00 - From: Doug
Title: brakes, gauges
Message: Well one day with the new brakes and I feel the need to post again to say that I am still impressed. Very solid performance all around and much better at highway speeds! Also, I think someone mentioned it before, but the slotted rotors do make a slight 'flickering' sound which is VERY soft at slow speeds and still only barely
perceptible at higher speeds but a bit louder. I kinda like it as I am used to being the "conductor of my intake symphony"--now i have an extra instrument! Charlie, why are you changing the gauges anyway!? How about yellow face with green needles!?
Mar 23, 2000 - 22:19 - From: Jamie
Title: Re: Brake Calipers
Message: Victor I beleive that Wilwood makes a replacement brake caliper for our cars. However, the bore size of the pistons are larger (i.e. better braking). So you would need to replace both the front left and right sides. But I have some good news, assuming that the calipers will work, They are only $124.72 U.S. dollars each. So it's still cheaper by $20 dollars. Check out these websites and contact them to confirm if it will works --->
http://www.ryanemotorsports.com/gm2.htm
or http://www.magnumforceracing.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/store4/wilwood_disc_brakes.htm?L+mystore4+isjx6912+950034729
Oh ya, one more thing, if/when you contact them don't ask if the GM Replacement calipers will work for a 91' Lotus Elan. I'd bet they would straight out say "LOTUS? I DON'T THINK SO". Give them the GM part number for the caliper. I believe Charlie or Doug either knows it or can get it for you. If you have any more question drop me an e-mail.
Mar 23, 2000 - 22:33 - From: Jamie
Title: Gauges
Message: Charlie if you don't care about matching your speedo & tach gauges with the others, go with the white face gauges. I have a friend that has the white gauges in his car and they really look nice. Also if you get a boost gauge, don't forget to buy a mechanical gauge. Mechanical gauges are more accurate then electrical gauges, but unfortunately more difficult to install and connect.
Mar 24, 2000 - 03:18 - From: Martin Burhouse
Title: VIN Number
Message: My VIN number ends as thus- NHD16736. Looking at the VIN production quantities on your site (gglotus actually) the last number is higher than any listed. Is this a problem or does it mean it's a really late car??
Mar 24, 2000 - 03:55 - From: Craig
Title: EBC Discs / Pads - Help !!!!!
Message: Had my new EBC Greenstuff Discs / Pads fitted by a local Lotus dealer. When braking (at any speed) I am getting a fairly loud 'ticking' noise from the new brakes. It almost sounds as though something is catching on the pads / rotors. They have apparently been fitted on the right sides etc. Anybody else have experience of this problem ? The car seems to be braking fine but the noise is really starting to annoy. Chris Neill Ltd (suppliers) and Lotus dealer can't suggest anything - could it be a faulty set of rotors or is that unlikely - they looked OK. The ticking is faster/louder when braking from speed and only happens when I start putting my foot on the brake (that sounds obvious right?). It didn't do it with the old original set of discs/pads so I guess it must be these new EBC bits - help help help help - I can see me out of pocket on this one!!
Mar 24, 2000 - 05:54 - From: Dom
Title: Ticking disks
Message: My grooved disks and greenstuff pads make the same ticking noise. There was a comment in the literature about the noise, but I can't remember if it said it was normal or
not (the Lotus mechanics threw the paper out after installing the disks). I will phone powerstop who supplied the brakes and let you know what they say.
Mar 24, 2000 - 11:41 - From: Dom
Title: Ticking disks
Message: Powerstop spoke to whoever provided the grooved disks and Greenstuff kevlar pads, and they said that the ticking noise isn't abnormal and should fade with time. Part of the bedding in process.
Mar 24, 2000 - 12:30 - From: Craig
Title: Relaxing now
Message: Thanks Dom, sorry about the brakes panic everyone !! Now back to that turbo upgrade I was considering..........
Mar 24, 2000 - 13:31 - From: Doug
Title: ticking sound
Message: Didn't I just mention that yesterday? I agree it is normal for slotted rotors.
Mar 24, 2000 - 14:37 - From: George
Title: Stuff
Message: Hey people. About that ticking sound issue, I guess it may be the combination of EBC brake parts. I have slotted rotors installed, but with factory pads at this moment. I do not have any ticking sounds. I'll see what happens when I put the pads which I got from top-end. About the wheels people, I am trying to contact my friend right now. I was using his
garage like a storage, put my old wheels there when I put on my Millie Miglias. So, as soon as I get in touch with the dude, I'll post the information. Doug and Dom, I am wondering if "Green Stuff" pads squeak or not. I need to do a brake job on my Mercedes, so I was wondering if I should put EBC pads on. Also, what kind of life expectancy do they have? Supposedly from what I've heard, kevlar compound pads have significantly shorter life than regular pads.
Mar 24, 2000 - 14:46 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Brakes
Message: I called Power Slot and they asked me what kind of Honda a Lotus Elan was, as they offer parts only for Hondas. Apparently not Powerstop, which does not have a US distributor._ _ _EBC's US distributor appears to be in complete and total chaos and can't figure out if they have pads for the Elan._ _ _Someone mentioned that the slotted rotors from Top End have six slots in the back and five slots in the front, rendering them dangerous to use and unsafe for use on public roads._ _ _Today hasn't been the best day for digging for parts._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 25, 2000 - 03:33 - From: charlie
Title: gauges
Message: ive gone with the white face black rim phantoms, we'll see soon =).
so i had an interesting day, i pulled the ECU out of my car and the chip, i was determined to find out if i had a superchips firstly, and what if anything it does..... i can confirm it is a
superchips, also its an eprom (a 27c256 for techies) i can also confirm there are different revs of the 1990 elan ECU programming, randy was kind enough to loan me his old chip his was an older revision than mine. also my superchip *does not* replace the memcal unit , the memcal piggybacks the superhips module, it might be a security feature or
there's a novram or like on the memcal module.
anyway the car is running much better after taking out the chip, performance may be down i
don't know, its hard to make a good judgment about things like this without proper measuring equipment, but it
doesn't feel slower. the superchips is meant to raise the boost from 8.5 to 13 or so psi, maybe it does i dunno. but idlings smoother i'm not getting the overboost sometimes, and its not cutting out as much at hot starts. it might be nonsense but the car *feels* like its running smoother as well, the tone sounds better, maybe i'm imagining it i don't know, i'm going to have the chip out for a while, as the
bloody thing got damaged when it was out =) superchips are replacing it for me. so when i get it back, i'll give you an update, but so far it looks like our own dr doug is right on the money and the superchip may turn out to be just superchump, keep tuned here. i also bought a HKS turbo timer so i;ll keep a record of the fitting procedure of that and the new gauges.
happy elaning all!
Mar 25, 2000 - 15:16 - From: Tony V
Title: Coolant Leak
Message: Yes...thanks to all...my coolant leak is in fact the vacuum controlled valve right under the intake manifold.
It is completely disintegrated....
I suspect that all Elans are prone to this..
Came out no problem...in fact completely disintegrated in my hand...I took out the intake hose (big 3" one) and the filler bottle...
Check your cars...
Going to NAPA to see if they can cross reference using Scott's info..
Will post later the result...
If anybody has any more info on this valve and a manufacturer or part #...post it in case NAPA don't have it.
Mar 25, 2000 - 16:08 - From: Tony V
Title: Coolant Leak...Part for repair
Message: Hello all again..
just got back from NAPA.....
the NAPA # for the Heater valve. is 660-1200
It appears to work...can not drive the car as the roads are covered in salt up here...but unless you all hear form me...this appears to be a fix...the new valve is all
plastic...and
will probably outlast the car....
Thanks to All and especially Scott...saved my a heck of a lot of time...
Again...guys...check your cars.. I am sure mine is not the only one out there...
Mar 25, 2000 - 17:48 - From: Jamie
Title: Seat Heaters
Message: For those that are interested, I just purchased some seat heaters for my Elan. I was able to install the heating element for my drivers seat last night. The
verdict...It works great. Now I am able to drive with the top down in freezing conditions and be comfortable. BTW - I also have/use a wind blocker.
So for those that are interested in the seat heaters check out this site.. http://www.Katzkin.com/indexNS.html
As for the price, I cost me $106 a seat, which included shipping and handling.
Mar 26, 2000 - 13:20 - From: Rod Little
Title: Windstop
Message: Jamie, I wonder where you got your wind blocker from, and how easy to fit ?
Mar 26, 2000 - 13:41 - From: Jamie
Title: Re: Windstop
Message: Rod, actually I made my wind stop. It wasn't too difficult to fit. But I am still making some minor changes to the brackets. When I have a chance I'll e-mail Doug a
picture of it, so you can check out how it was made and installed.
Mar 27, 2000 - 03:50 - From: Jason
Title: Brakes
Message: I think I've had the EBC set up the longest - some pointers:
The noise (click / tick) is totally normal. It does get a lot quieter after say 200 miles - though I can still hear mine now with the roof down. Its the noise of the air between the pad and rotor expanding & compressing because of the slots & grooves. They don't squeak too badly. Mine stopped after about 30 miles.
Don't be too hard on the pads for the first 100 miles - you can glaze them quite badly & ruin them.
After however long I've had them I am still very impressed. Their performance, if anything gets better & better. I had new lotus
disks & pads fitted to the rear also, and the overall package is now excellent - and they need very little warming - ie a couple of dabs.
Mar 27, 2000 - 03:55 - From: Jason
Title: Double S Exhaust
Message: I steered clear of DS them after hearing some fitting & quality scare stories. I went for a Chris Neil Stainless back box. I like the noise, but apparently there are 2 types of stainless - ferretic & non ferretic. Make sure you get the latter if you want to make sure it stays nice & shiny. The on I got from Neils is unfortunately the former - I wish I'd known I'd have got something else. Having said that though it still looks fine. Also had to replace one of the bands on the back box after it snapped - shipped out to me in 24 hours - very impressed. One thing I noticed at
Donnington was the sheer number of different exhaust systems on the Elans there. Much more than I'm aware of.
Mar 27, 2000 - 16:50 - From: Rod Little
Title: Exhaust Bracket on back box & Tick Tick
Message: I also had the band that's the bracket around the back box, break. I got it welded up, as heard other people having the same problem with the standard Lotus one.
My Tarox disc and pad setup also is noisy, there was a warning with the fitting instructions. The fitting instructions also mentioned the best way to bed the pads in, it said fine ( and best ) to use them hard, just remember to cool the discs down. Best way to do this is just cool air passing over the discs, so driving along at 30mph+ for a while was
recommended. What you must never do is use the breaks hard and then just park up.
Would be very interested in hearing other peoples ideas on how to bed brakes in though.
Mar 28, 2000 - 11:32 - From: Scott
Title: Service Manuals and fixed leaks
Message: For those that have bought the service manuals, which do you recommend and what are the prices you've paid? I am going to the UK on April 9th and I thought while I was there, I would pick up the manuals.
Also, remember those leaks that would hit you on the knee, coming from the windscreen/roofline? I solved my leaks! I had recently replaced the rubber strip that went along the top windscreen edge. Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the seal that exists on the leading edge of the top has shrunk over time. (created a gutter effect) Instead of paying for new seals, I looked for a solution. I found that using a D-profile piece of
weather stripping (3/4") and adhering it to the new rubber strip on the windscreen, I now have a sealed that is so tight, closing the top is really tough. BUT, no more leaks! Plus, because the D-strip is so wide, it looks factory. -Scott
Mar 28, 2000 - 18:41 - From: Chris Woods
Title: air bags
Message: Does anyone know whether it is legal in the US to replace the air bag wheel with a non airbag wheel and if legal whether it has a devastating effect on insurance? Even if not illegal I doubt whether a main dealer would do the work because of potential liability in this litigation loving country but does anyone know an independent engineer/workshop in New York/North East Pennsylvania who would do the work?
Chris
Mar 29, 2000 - 01:36 - From: Brian
Title: Carbon Fibre Door Handle Trim Panels
Message: John, I'm currently in the process of producing some Door Handle Trim Panels in Carbon Fibre for my Elan to match the Carbon Fibre Effect Leather I used when redesigning my seats (see owners gallery). As my business is in manufacturing Carbon Fibre parts for Racecars amongst other things, I am also developing some Carbon Parts for the Elan. If any fellow owners have a wish list for ways to "add lightness" as Colin Chapman would say, then contact me with your suggestions and if there's sufficient interest to cover mold costs I can produce some nice pieces for our cars.
Mar 29, 2000 - 08:16 - From: Steve Holt
Title: Electrical Help Wanted
Message: I'm after a wiring diagram for a 1990 Elan SE Turbo and was wondering if anyone can help. The problem is:-
Turn the lights to side lights - nothing happens
Turn the lights to main beam - nothing happens
Push the left stalk to get full beam - nothing happens
Pull the left stalk to "flash" and the lights pop up and light up.
I have just removed a radar detector that was on the car when I bought it. There were only two wires that connected into the Elan electrics - one yellow and one black. I am presuming that they are live and earth.
Just to make matters a bit more complicated, there seems to be a "little black box" that hooks into the lighting circuit near the light switch. It turns the lights off automatically after a set period of time (adjustable) when the engine isn't running.
I have some experience of electrics (used to repair airborne radios many years ago) but don't really want to pull the dashboard apart before having checked basic wiring (switch, relays etc).
I think I may have dislodged a wire when removing the radar.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
Mar 29, 2000 - 14:27 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Air Bags
Message: DOT and the Federal and State governments frown pretty heavily on removing air bags. It would be a violation of Federal law and it should be impossible to pass inspection without the air bag. Last year they started allowing people to disable the bags if they were under a certain
height or can prove they sit within a certain distance of the steering wheel. I don't think they allowed removal, only disabling, by use of a key switch, installed by an authorized service center. The custom steering wheel industry pretty much went down the tubes because of this._ _ _All that said, if anyone replaces their OEM Elan wheel, I'm in the market for used Elan steering wheels and have a couple Isuzus with Lotus Tuned suspensions that would look great with Elan wheels._ _ _Bill Luton
Mar 29, 2000 - 16:42 - From: Davy Neill
Title: Cooling Fans
Message: Greetings from Northern Ireland.
Does anybody know of a way to check if the aux cooling fans are o.k. I'm not sure that mine do
Mar 29, 2000 - 17:24 - From: Doug
Title: wiring / cooling fans
Message: Steve, Charlie "used to have" the wiring diagrams all up on his site--but I think it is STILL down!!--the link is in the repairs section. Davy, if you turn on the A/C it will energize the fans immediately--if you do not have A/C then the fans will go on when the temp gets to 3/4 on the gauge and will turn off when the temp cools to 1/2. Hey, both of you need to visit the "Owners' Gallery" to sign up!!
Mar 30, 2000 - 02:57 - From: Steve
Title: Electrical help (Headlamp wiring)
Message: Charlie's site is still down. Can anyone help with providing a wiring diagram or could they have a look at their wiring diagram and help with the problem.
Many thanks.
Mar 31, 2000 - 16:49 - From: charlie
Title: Charlie's site
Message: yes it is still down, i will put up a mirror today and post the results
Mar 31, 2000 - 16:50 - From: charlie
Title: steering wheel
Message: My car has had the airbag removed for years, in california, no troubles here.. in fact i just put a new one on yesterday as mine was getting a bit worn... i'd join the NRA before i'd give up my momo wheel..
Mar 31, 2000 - 16:53 - From: charlie
Title: HKS turbo timer
Message: I installed the HKS turbo timer in my car yesterday, works fine. takes about 30 minutes to install. I'll do a write up for it.. I have mine set to 3 minutes, which means the temperature of the engine goes up, but hopefully the benefits
outweigh that. Talking of legal stuff is it legal to leave a car unattended with the engine running ( in CA )? so i
don't park by any coppers =)
Mar 31, 2000 - 17:30 - From: charlie
Title: mirror of electrical sections
Message:
Geocities has "lost" my link to upload stuff =) so i'm limited to 50mb on my main site, so i just uploaded the electrical manual for just now.. (its slow to upload so it might take a bit)
http://www.finitemonkeys.com/en/es.html
rest soon.
Mar 31, 2000 - 17:35 - From: will
Title: turbo timer
Message: charlie i have the apexi turbo timer. i usually run it for about 1:30. sometimes it interferes with my alarm. do have any suggestions about that?
Mar 31, 2000 - 19:06 - From: Jamie
Title: Attn: Norcal People
Message: Since the weather's been so nice up here in the Bay Area, how about a NorCal meet this weekend. Charlie, David, George, anyone else?????
Mar 31, 2000 - 19:18 - From: charlie
Title: timer and alarm
Message: how is it connected ? mine just takes the +B to the IG and and the ACC so its just like the key being turned. I have no alarm though =)