June 2000 Message Board

Jun 1, 2000 - 00:13 - From: Doug
Title: cats and brakes
Message: Steve, there is not normally a sensor in the precat--only in the "Japanese export model" of which there are few! It shouldn't make a difference if you use the precat part or the UK model which is stripped of the cat from within. Ian, Welcome, and please add yourself to the "Owners' List"!! The best way to have good Elan brakes is to get them in "top shape" and keep them there. The calipers are prone to sticking and thus shotty performance--this is likely the root of all brake evil, and can be remedied by thorough cleaning or overhauls!! Proper bleeding is a must to get a firm pedal feel, and the stainless brake lines may help a bit too. With good working calipers you can then put in new front rotors and pads and will likely notice a big improvement from all the parts being in top shape. The rears do only a small percentage of the brake work so get new rotors and pads for them last! I think the EBC parts are great, AND they are cheaper than the O.E. parts and easily available to you in London! See my brake write-up as you can save some serious money by doing the front brakes pads and rotors yourself--it is easier than you think and a fun experience.

Jun 1, 2000 - 02:57 - From: richard
Title: Re: So many questions
Message: I have used Evostick contact adhesive to stick on hood patches and they have been on for about 5 years without coming unstuck. Have you sewn across the slit to make a butt joint and put the patch on the inside?

Jun 1, 2000 - 12:49 - From: Ian H
Title: HELP!!! Rear Brake Caliper needed
Message: Hi, Similiar to Craig i have had an MOT failure due to brake problems. I have purchased two exchanged front calipers £50UKP each with new EBC green stuff pads from www.classicbrakes.co.uk an superb company that were most helpful that delviered the goods I wanted and within 2 days. The problems started when trying to get hold of a Rear Caliper which the piston has totally siezed on, I tried SJSportscars.co.uk but after 2 weeks of trying they was unable to help, Lotus themselves do not even have the part or any due in for months. Does anyone know where I can get a rear caliper I need a righthand side one (they are different), I am getting desperate the only other way is to find a new seal kit but I am also having trouble getting one of these but Steve at SJSportscars thinks he may be able to help if I cannot get a replacement. Please help as it pains me to see my car off the road and coming to work in my mates tired old ford sierra. For info - the Calipers for the back are supposedly off a Pontiac - the front are apparently off a Vauxhall cavalier, front discs are off a vauxhall astra 1990 GSI, pads are off a Vauxhall nova 1990 gsi. Thanks Ian.

Jun 1, 2000 - 12:51 - From: Ian H
Title: Replacing Calipers.
Message: If anyone requires any advice on the fitting of front or rear calipers then I am happy to provide help. I will try and write up a section on it for Doug to post. I would recommend doing it yourself as they are relatively simple.

Jun 1, 2000 - 16:04 - From: Bill Luton
Title: New Exhaust System Pictures
Message: After too long, I shot some better pictures of the Stan's Headers brand turbo-back exhaust system for the Elan. The image is at http://www.isuzuperformance.com/gifs/partsgifs/shbill10.jpg  and it is featured in the online catalog at http://www.isuzuperformance.com/bills/engexhcomp.html#stans  _ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 1, 2000 - 18:18 - From: Jeff
Title: Drool
Message: http://www.symbolicmotors.com/Lotus350/Lotus350.html

Jun 1, 2000 - 21:45 - From: Jamie
Title: Re: Drool
Message: For those that are in the Bay Area, you can see the 340R at the Redwood City Lotus. However, they store it in the garage so you have to walk in their to look at it. I've seen it three times now and was never questioned why I was there. But I guess that's because I had my window repaired their.

Jun 2, 2000 - 02:58 - From: Doug
Title: Transaxle Oil
Message: Steve, I was fondling the parts manual looking for the thermostat part number (mine just died!) when I came across something worth reporting. Part Number A100F6036F: Description = "Transaxle Oil 5w/30" I wonder if you can contact the factory and see what they say about this. Perhaps they have changed to the Castrol 75w/90 since then. It would be nice to know what they say as these 2 oils seem to be fairly different weights!

Jun 2, 2000 - 07:03 - From: George
Title: Hey Jaime,
Message: Hey Jaime, sorry that I couldn't make it to the BBQ that one day. I was so beat after the whole spin out thing. I guess I was mentally stressed without realizing it. Let's hook up this weekend some how though. I still want you to try the "clay bar" on your Elan. The funny thing about the 340 at Boardwalk is that I think the owner's name is Jaime as well. The guy works at Boardwalk, it's his little race car. I heard that he races that thing when there is an event. Anyway, I am still waiting for the estimate from the body shop. My insurance agent laughed at me when he heard I spun my car. I am so glad that by paying $500 deductible, the whole thing will get taken care of. See you soon.

Jun 2, 2000 - 08:43 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Tranny Oil
Message: _Do Not_ use gear oil in an Isuzu 76 mm transmission. I have not seen any Isuzu transmission that did not use motor oil for lubricant. gear oil is too heavy and will not lubricate the transmission. We did some inadvertent testing in Isuzu transmissions in 1988 and 1989 (translation: we did not know not to use gear oil) and found that with gear oil, the gear clusters burnt out and dropped all gears except direct drive in fourth (R, 1, 2, 3, 5) which was luckily 1:1. Never use gear oil in an Isuzu transmission._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 2, 2000 - 14:03 - From: Scott
Title: HKS Blow off valve spring replacement
Message: Last month I mentioned that I had realized that the TopEnd BOV I bought was not performing like other BOV's I saw at the car show. It was brought to my attention (and confirmed by Top End) that our BOV is supplied with the 12-18 psi RED spring. The result was a significant snort from the BOV under all conditions. In response to this, I had ordered the BLUE 7-14 psi spring and installed it this week. A more detailed write up was supplied to Doug and he said he will post it to the BOV section. In short, the BOV now produces a clean, "rush-of-air" sound. Plus, the acceleration is improved. I am sure the snort was due to the valve only opening partially (under all tension settings) and as a result, the turbo was ultimately spooling down. While I know the Elan can reach close to 14 psi, why in the heck were we supplied with such a monster of a spring? At least it was an easy fix. -Scott

Jun 2, 2000 - 23:57 - From: Doug
Title: 9 year old Thermostats
Message: Well I guess we will all have this problem, and probably sooner than later! My thermostat went out and luckily I was able to get my car home with the heater on full-blast and the temp gauge showing a needle-width ABOVE 4/4 before the engine exploded! I've just replaced the thermostat for a grand total of about $7 plus an hour and a half of my labor. Write-up is soon to follow!

Jun 3, 2000 - 02:47 - From: Steve P
Title: Gear Oil
Message: As per Doug's request I've e-mailed Lotus to clarify why they are now recommending the TAX-F 75W/90, and not the Mobil 1. I hope Lotus don't have a problem if they fitted it to 800 S2 Elans!

Jun 3, 2000 - 07:38 - From: George
Title: Temperature Problem
Message: Doug, knowing how hot LA is, and how hot our cars run, it was great and amazing that the car did not over heat. Cheers. I was wondering if anyone else has tried that Mercedes water pump that I recommended. I believe in my water pump like you would not believe. Up till today, well, till I spun my car, I think it was the greatest add on besides MBC that I've ever done to my Elan. Maybe that the Bay Area does not have 110 degrees scorching heat like SoCal, but even in 90+ degree weather, in slow moving traffic, my temperature gauge barely reached 1/3 of the whole gauges mark.

Jun 3, 2000 - 17:19 - From: Doug
Title: Coolant Recs Anyone ?
Message: Yes, I was lucky George! But I was keen enough to see the whole thing unfold before me and had my eye glued to the gauge. I put the heat on as it was getting to 4/4th's and it came down a needle and stayed there so I continued. Otherwise I would have stopped. I am wondering if anyone has any coolant info/recommendations to offer?? Know any reason to use or NOT use any particular brand. Got any favorites?

Jun 3, 2000 - 17:35 - From: charlie
Title: cooling
Message: that time my cooling fans got stuck on the temp never went above 1/3.. so i'm thinking if we alter the thermostat control so that it comes on a bit sooner it might help a lot. much better than leaving the fans running all the time =) unless you plug the car in to a wall outlet ..

Jun 3, 2000 - 18:53 - From: George
Title: Coolant thoughts
Message: Some of my thoughts about coolants has a lot to do with mixture rate instead of types or makes of the coolant. As we all know usually, people put coolant and water at a 50:50 ratio. The engine actually cools better when there is more water. The main function of coolant is to prevent corrosion. Doug, Charlie, and everyone else that live on the west coast, such as California. We don't really have that much concern regarding corrosion because of the weather. So, I think we can up the water a little bit to get better cooling. Also, Doug, that product water wetter you mentioned before is an excellent product. I've been using it for about 3 years now and loving it. My cooling system is working like magic because of Water Wetter and the new water pump. I think by playing with the coolant/water ratio, flushing clean the radiator itself, add water wetter, and put the magic water pump in, Elan owners should be very happy about the performance of the cooling system. Well, just hope that our thermostat does not crap out during bumper to bumper traffic hour.

Jun 3, 2000 - 22:12 - From: terry daisy
Title: 71 elan
Message: still trying to find out more info on my 71, i believe it is a sprint? has colin chapman signature on the steering wheel, and a plaque on side that says world championship car construction, 71 72 73, black and gold, like a player special, but i believe in came into the us yellow. serial number 0048j. not a convertible, has a sunroof. believe it has stroms, not webers. would appreciate and info.

Jun 3, 2000 - 22:32 - From: Doug
Title: Re: '71 Elan
Message: Terry, check out www.lotuselan.net

Jun 4, 2000 - 13:42 - From: Ian
Title: Car Audio upgrade
Message: Having decided that my new brakes would be best fitted by someone who actually knows what they are doing, I have turned my attention towards sorting out improving the sound setup in the car. I have already replaced the standard speakers in the car in the standard locations (don't really want to go cutting out sections of panels to fit speakers) but what I really need to do now is find somewhere suitable to stick an amp. Unlike the rest of the car, the boot is actually remarkably free of leaks, so it's a possible, but I wondered if anyone had tried to install an amp under the roof stowage compartment next to the battery. It seems there is sufficient room in there for a small amp, and would mean not having to run chunky power cables through the car. Does this seem a sensible idea? Or are there compelling reasons not to do this that means I should consider somewhere else? Another option might be to fit it under the dashboard on the passenger side where the (broken and hopelessly designed) glove compartment currently is. Anyone had any good suggestions or experience?

Jun 4, 2000 - 14:55 - From: charlie
Title: amps and speakers
Message: i fitted my bass amp vertically behind the passenger seat on the panel there. If it rains there's a problem, but it rarely rains here =) and my amp is certified water tolerant, ie can survive a short wettingm, but not a downpour, the solution here is to put a plastic cover over the top of the amp, so the water goes around it, or just return it to the manufacturer under warranty =) (they said i could) I added two more bass speakers in that box thing where the other rear speakers are. its easy to add and since that panels easy to replace later its not a big deal, and you cant see it because of the seats. The main problem with the elan is that all the speakers are below you, pretty low and all the high frequency stuff gets lost, and a lot of the lows get absorbed , especially from the back. a low pass filter added to the front door speakers, with the addition of a couple of tweeters mounted up high, and then high pass filters on the back speakers, change them to bass speakers (preferably with an amp, or add extras like i did) and you ought to start getting some decent sound.. i changed to minidisc which is superior in terms of vibration and skipping, but inferior in sound quality, but given its a convertible with lots of road noise and so on the loss from the MD isn't that bad, unlike say MP3 for no skipping. CDs also wear out fast in the car, specially in the sunny climates, my record is one day, new CD put in the car in the morning, by evening it was peeling, though obviously that's not typical. As for the boot/trunk not leaking your lucky then, i've heard many complaints of water in there, and people don't want to put CD changers in there.. Under the seat is bad too, since lots of water gets in there, behind the glovebox is a good place, but if its a big amp watch out for cooling and airflow problems. You can fit a slimling amp next to the battery, and that's where the electronics hookup is anyway, again the only real problem there is one of cooling and air flow, stands to reason hot day, top down, no air flow, big amp, bye bye =) amps generate a lot of heat as there are pretty inefficient beasts, and heatsinks won't help much if there is no air flow over them to convect the heat away. Fire is even possible , as high temperatures can happen, nearly all amps have thermal shutdowns, but even they fail... the stock speakers are in fact quite good for stock, and especially for early 90s. I replaced mine with bostons at the front (4 1/4 i think) and inifinitys at the back (5 1/4 i think) along with a couple of decent bass speakers which i forget who makes em, they are either 5 or 6 inch, 100w.

Jun 4, 2000 - 14:56 - From: charlie
Title: forget to add
Message: that the speakers i added for the bass are also waterproof, you can get marine speakers if you want to go crazy =)

Jun 4, 2000 - 15:00 - From: charlie
Title: mobil 1
Message: i always use mobil 1, however on alt.cars.lotus a lot of people say its too thin, and leaks out or something, i do have a lot of oil on the engine underneath, but it doesn't drip. presumably the two are connected.

Jun 4, 2000 - 15:39 - From: Doug
Title: Thermostat Write-up
Message: I have put a new write-up in the repairs section for the thermostat. It is in the works to be bigger too. You can see a picture of my old thermostat in boiling water while completely shut!! Thru this experience and others I have decided that the dashboard engine temp gauge goes 'roughly' from 80 degrees Celcius at the bottom, up in 10 degree increments at the ticks, to about 120 degrees at the top end! I think this is pretty dead on for my car and wonder if anyone else has input on this or a more accurate gauge with real numbers to comment! My car runs fine again and got some sun time today!! Cheers

Jun 4, 2000 - 21:33 - From: Geroge
Title: Audio
Message: Ian, I have my amp mounted in the trunk along with a pair of 8" subs in a box enclosure, and my 12 disk CD changer. Luckily, I had one of the few Elans that does not have a trunk leak. Therefore, I did not have any problems with amps and components getting wet. I agree with Charlie with the inferior stock speaker positions. Here is the bottom line: If you want to get good sound, you need to drill a couple of holes to mount them tweeters high. I am running 2 pairs of SoundStream 6.5" separates front and back. I had two tweeters mounted on front door panels, and 2 tweeters mounted by the "B pillars." By running a high quality class A amp, the sound is extremely good. If you do decide to put your amp in the trunk, check out a couple of things. If there is trunk leak, fix it by silicon sealants. Also, Class A amps tend to run at a higher temperature, so once a while, if the weather is over 110 degrees outside, you have a chance of blowing it. The fact is, I got my system installed back in 1993, car stereo technology has advanced significantly over the years. I believe a lot of amps out there could stand up to the beating of moisture and heat and still perform brilliantly.

Jun 5, 2000 - 01:08 - From: randy
Title: amps
Message: I had mine installed under the passenger seat. It sounds fine and the seat is still able to move. Randy

Jun 5, 2000 - 11:48 - From: Craig
Title: Dammit, sh*t and Bu**er
Message: Took the red bitch (Elan) in to get the brakes sorted (it6 failed it's MOT)!! apparently when you replace the rear discs/pads you have to replace a couple of bearings (true or false?). Anyway they also said that as the front caliper had stuck it had destroyed my EBC pads at the front (new set required !! after 1500 miles). I am really annoyed with the Lotus garage as they didn't pick up on this at the last service even though I questioned the front brakes !! Total bill for set of rear discs/pads and two front calipers = £550 !! Fortunately it's a company car but I can't help but think we are being taken to the cleaners financially!!

Jun 5, 2000 - 13:48 - From: charlie
Title: brakes under amp seats
Message: yeah i'm with you there, same thing happened to me, cept i went through two sets of rotors and lots of pads. I was a bit annoyed that they didn't find it out first time too. but when i turned up with red hot rotors (literally) and smoke and the car not moving forward because the brakes were locked on they had another look at it ;-) ............... i wouldn't put an amp under the seat if you ever go out in more than a shower. I had 3" of water in the footwell and under the seat after a drive to seattle.. theres drain holes under there to let water out, and let lots of it in if you hit big puddles, it also seems to get in under the wheel arch...............i agree with george on the modern amps though about standing up to heavy use and water, but i'd be cautious of putting a big amp next to the battery, because the battery can give off explosive fumes, and a big amp generates a lot of heat, when power transistors go wrong they can put a hole through a metal sheet, either by pure heat or force of explosion, and often they have mechanical relays in them, which are not hermetically sealed and tend to give off sparks.

Jun 5, 2000 - 17:00 - From: Steve P
Title: Company Car!
Message: Craig, who do you work for? I can just imagine what my boss would say if I asked for an Elan. "No way, we can't afford the bills", probably! Anyhow, the garage is right about the rear bearings if the discs are being renewed, the disc is the hub, and you would probably destroy the old bearing driving it out. Just think how much better you'll be stopping when it's sorted and the company has paid the bill..... ;-)

Jun 6, 2000 - 02:55 - From: Doug
Title: Gone in 60 Seconds
Message: Well I rented a movie over the weekend and it had this movie trailer on it; so needless to say I scrutinized it in super-slow-mo and found the red car is actually likely a Ferrari and definitely NOT an Elan unfortunately! It will be a good show none the less!

Jun 6, 2000 - 07:20 - From: Craig
Title: Brakes are Ready!!
Message: Going to pick up my Elan now. Brakes have been done. I actually had a look at the front pads (which needed replacing) and sure enough one of my lovely EBC greenstuff's had worn down to virtually nothing on one side - a few more mills' and it would be touching metal (new discs too then !!). What amazed me was that I didn't realise it was happening - I new that wheel was starting to get hot but I just put it down to my braking a bit too hard sometimes. Hopefully it will be a lot more effective now...

Jun 6, 2000 - 07:44 - From: Mike Rice
Title: Steering Free Play
Message: How much free play should there be in an Elan’s steering? Should it be possible to turn the steering wheel at all (when the car is at rest) without all the movement appearing in the front wheels, or is a small amount acceptable/inevitable? If there is free play, where is its most likely source? I have had conflicting advice from two garages. The first said there was play in the RHS track rod end, then changed his mind and said the play was in the rack. A second garage said the play was before the rack, in a universal joint. That sounded cheaper to fix (a new rack is over 600 UK Pounds), but I wasn’t convinced if he was right. Any ideas?

Jun 6, 2000 - 12:53 - From: charlie
Title: gone.
Message: maybe but in the trailer it looks like its an esprit with headlamps popping up, then then camera swinging over it , then coming down, behind a ferrari with the esprit in front, i donwloaded the quicktime of the trailer ;-) .... place your bets ladies and jellybeans, we ought to know the results by the 24th ..

Jun 6, 2000 - 16:02 - From: George
Title: Movies, Elan...etc.
Message: I just downloaded the "Gone in 60 Sec." movies trailer. Wondering which part are you guys talking about with the Elan? If it was the red one when they enter the lot with all the exotica cars, then, it was actually a 512TR. I went through that part frame by frame and realize it was a 512 with the prancing horse in the front grill. A friend of mine just got back from Vegas last week. Guys, remember that movie "Honey I Blew Up the Kids?" Rember that little 3 year old got blown up to like 100ft tall and picked up a yellow Elan? Well, seems that the Elans they used to make that movie is in one of the MGM parking lot. Two of them to be exact, just sitting there and collecting dust... What a shame; say, let's all take a trip to Vegas and rescue those poor Elans so they could come back to life and be driven instead of become forgotten. lol

Jun 6, 2000 - 22:29 - From: will
Title: stereo
Message: ian, i placed a 600 watt amp under the passenger seat. it is a very large amp, but it fit nicely. i have an enclosed sub in the trunk. i am getting rid of it though. i am putting a set of ten inch subs behind the seats. i saw some 8's. but i want a little more thump. i am in the process of building the boxes to hold them. there is ample enough space if you remove the covers for the stock speakers. i will update when i have it all installed.

Jun 6, 2000 - 22:44 - From: will
Title: stereo
Message: i must be one of the lucky ones. i have a very small leak in my car. it is on the driver's side. there is an 8th of an inch gap between the top and the forward part of the window. my amp stays dry. and when hawaii has a rainy season. we really have one. i have not had any leaks in the trunk. i also dynmated it. but now that is a waste because of me moving the box out of the trunk.

Jun 7, 2000 - 00:55 - From: Doug
Title: Trunk/Boot leaks
Message: For those unfortunate enough to have trunk/boot leaks try this simple fix: there is a closing height adjuster screw on each side of the trunk inside under the wing. Simply undo the lock nut and turn the screw so it is a tad shorter. This may then allow the trunk to close and properly contact the seal all the way around and stop your leak!

Jun 7, 2000 - 02:07 - From: Jamie
Title: Re: Trunk Leaks
Message: I am curious as to the design of the European model Elans (Right Hookers). Correct me if I am mistaken, but I believe only the people with European models have the problem with leaky trunks. I wonder if it is due to the design of the trunk, as it is different then the US models. Take a look at Randy's site (www.lotuselan.com) and look at the green Elans, as you will see that the entire wing goes up. The wing does not have two bracket affixed to the truck like the US models, but is one piece. Just a fruit of thought.

Jun 7, 2000 - 03:06 - From: Richard
Title: Brakes under amp seats
Message: "there's drain holes under there to let water out, and let lots of it in if you hit big puddles, it also seems to get in under the wheel arch" Have you traced the source of water leak from the wheel arch?, On the RHD versions it can leak in via the air inlet foam seal between the inner wing and the heater fan box and drip onto the floor. I'm not sure how the air inlet is routed on LHD versions.

Jun 7, 2000 - 15:31 - From: charlie
Title: leaky
Message: there's a number of places, there's actually a large hole in the right hand side (on US) that goes straight to the ground, so to speak, you can see the road from it. (I used it to route my turbo gauge line) . I'd imagine a lot of the water comes from there, it was someone else on here how told me about the wheel arches i haven't investigated it. However the holes that are there are sufficient for wet feet =)

Jun 7, 2000 - 17:21 - From: Paul Dennis
Title: New Clutch
Message: Thanks for your advice about my gearbox problems sorry it has taken so long to reply, It was the clutch that had gone i managed to change the clutch myself (with help from a friend for lifting the gearbox) saving myself £250+vat for labour charges alone the clutch and new bearing came to £150 its a job that's not easy it took me two days! but i enjoyed doing it what took most of the time was taking the bits off to get to the gearbox

Jun 7, 2000 - 17:23 - From: Paul Dennis
Title: Leaking roof
Message: Has anybody tried ntc cars newly developed a frame seals as they claim to reduce leaks

Jun 7, 2000 - 17:29 - From: Paul Dennis
Title: leaking boot (trunk)
Message: I had a leaking boot and found the leak to be coming through the bonding off the panels above the inside of the rear light cluster after letting it dry i put silicone sealer around the area over a year ago and the leak has stopped ever since

Jun 7, 2000 - 22:46 - From: randy
Title: amps/seats/leaks
Message: Maybe I have just been lucky, maybe it is because my top is only a couple of years old, but the worst leak I have had during a monsoon was at the top left corner of the windshield, getting my knee wet. I have yet to have any standing water anywhere inside the car. That is why I felt it was safe to put the amp under the passenger seat.

Jun 8, 2000 - 07:31 - From: Richard
Title: CAS woes
Message: Got up this morning and had to use the Lotus (for complicated reasons that I won't bore you with) and guess what the engine light was on all the way to work, there was no acceleration and it ran dog rough. So lunch time I go out to have a look at the CAS hall effect sensor and before opening the bonnet I start her up and guess what - no engine light!!!! grrrrrr I think I know what I'll be doing tonight.

Jun 8, 2000 - 08:22 - From: jason
Title: Rear brakes, Amp, Leaks & drainholes
Message: When I had my rear disks & pads replaced new bearings were fitted - The parts were cheap, the labour expensive! Im no audio expert, but I remember someone suggested installing it on the ledge of the narrow shelf behind the seats. This area never gets wet, though footwells & boots do (not mine ;) - esp in the sunny UK!. A multichanger can then be put on the ledge behind the other seat. Richard, are there drain holes behind the drivers seat - this is the only area of mine that suffers. If there are, mine must be blocked. Almost tempted to drill a small hole through the floor! Anyone done this? Slightly off topic, went to Peter Smiths Today, they have a standard elise with the full msport body kit - this was one of the most awesome looking cars I've ever seen! If the exige is similar, I want one!

Jun 8, 2000 - 09:10 - From: Scott
Title: Tire air pressure question
Message: ...or should that be "tyre?" Here's a question for my friends at LotusElanCentral: Has anyone had to use trial and error with the tire pressure for the Elan? (for highway, not motorcross) The manual in the USA for the 16" x 7 (205/45/16) states a cold pressure of 26 psi. Unfortunately, my previous owner had > used the standard tire size, but had put on 4 brand new Pirelli P7000's that are 215/40's. Here's my issue, what's the rule on the tire pressure when you go to a smaller sidewall? At 26 psi, the fronts look more smooshed than normal. While I have confirmed that the tire wear is even, it just looks like I need more air. The backs look good at the same pressure. Please give me some hints out there. Thanks -Scott

Jun 8, 2000 - 09:12 - From: Scott
Title: correction on tire question
Message: should have read: "Unfortunately, my previous owner had NOT used the standard tire size, but had put on 4 brand new Pirelli P7000's that are 215/40's""

Jun 8, 2000 - 10:27 - From: Bill Luton
Title: tire pressure
Message: In general, car manufacturers put tire pressure recommendations in the owners manual that are to result in the most comfortable ride (read mushy ride). They suggest lower than what should be run so that sensitive American butts won't be offended by a sporty ride. It is better to look at the sidewall of the tire and it will have a notation of the maximum pressure. Set the tires at or a little below that. The car will ride a little bumpier but the tires will not wear as badly on the inner and outer shoulders from underinflation and the car will get better gas mileage as there is less friction from a properly inflated tire than an overinflated tire. This will also reduce hydroplaning. This becomes sort of a trial and error thing. In general, the lower the profile of the tire, the higher the pressure. My 195-60-14 tires are rated at 35 PSI max pressure and I run them at 33-34 PSI. My 205-40-17 tires are rated at 44 PSI max pressure and I run them at 42-43 PSI. (This is a 1991 Isuzu Stylus XS, shares the same engine and transmission with the Elan)._ _ _Autocrossing on street tires gets to be the most extreme use of tires and running higher pressure to overcome shoulder rollover where the tread tries to move out from under the wheel in hard cornering. More pressure for the afternoon of racing reduces this and marking the tire shoulder with white shoe polish or window chalk is the best tool to help set pressure (at least for me because my biggest concern is keeping the car off the tire shoulder and avoiding wheel damage). Mark the edge of the tread, run around the track, look at the marks and if the mark has been wiped off past the edge of the tread, add more air. If the mark remains way over onto the tread, you can let out some air. I run 50-53 PSI front and 41-45 PSI in the back of the 195-60-14 street tires and 60-64 PSI in the front and 50-55 PSI in the back of the 205-40-17 tires for the afternoon of autocrossing (and then bleed them down before I drive home)._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 8, 2000 - 12:47 - From: charlie wallace
Title: jason , drain holes
Message: i believe there are drain holes under the seats, but they are normally plugged by rubber caps. These usually degrade and either fall out or jam in . of course i might just be getting confused between the elan and the miata ;) since it suffers the same effect . .

Jun 8, 2000 - 19:47 - From: Scott
Title: re: Tire pressure
Message: Bill: I was afraid you would recommend that. My tires have a max pressure rating of 51 psi. Using your suggestion, that would be almost 2x the original 26 psi stated by Lotus. I am not suggesting you are wrong, it just seems extreme. Plus, with the load of the car being split roughly 1400/1000 lb fr/bk, then if we were to set the fronts to about 50 psi, would you not put the rears at about something less? (maybe around 36 psi??) Thanks for your previous post. -Scott

Jun 9, 2000 - 00:29 - From: Dan
Title: Window fix
Message: After a few months of a "juttering" drivers window [sometimes it would stop part way up, but with a little manual help would get there], its operation became worse. After reading the available "door strip down" and "window regulator repair" articles, I launched into dismantling the door. Once apart, I noticed that the cable was OFF the top pulley and was ABOVE the lower pulley; I also noticed that the "butterfly" clip that attaches the cables to the window was rotated and jammed between the center lift channel and the window glass. I jostled the cables back onto the pulleys where they belonged and gave it a try -- as it was being raised, the "butterfly" clip would rotate and come out of the channel and the lift pressure seemed to be biased towards the front, causing the window to become "skewed" (front lifted, back did not) and would stop -- a little manual lift on the back and the mechanism would work. It appears that the center "butterfly" clip is broken -- I think it should slide up and down the channel, but NOT rotate (true?). I think the window motor & cables are OK, but the center lift clip/guide is broken (shouldn't this stay in the center channel?). =====question: do I need to remove the window to replace the clip? or can it be done in place? I think the other guides (front & rear in channels) are OK, but maybe I should remove the window and check...any suggestions? Also, I removed the inner "wipe" fuzzy thing (was coming off) - stuck on with double-sided tape....any special requirements for replacement tape? What is the spec of the rubbery stuff used to glue/seal the access panels? looks like RTV but is closer to rubber. I'm not quite sure how to approach this repair, so any advice will be appreciated.

Jun 9, 2000 - 05:11 - From: Richard
Title: Re: Window fix
Message: Dan, The "rubbery stuff" is I believe Sikaflex. When I took my door apart the access panels weren't stuck to the main door inner panel the Sikaflex just formed a seal. The access panels were held in by a number of plastic pegged drive rivets. Did your seals break?, how did you get the orange plastic part out of the door plunger? I used a spire clip broken in half, this gives a strong thin metal hook that's just the right height and strength to hook between the clip and plunger

Jun 9, 2000 - 05:20 - From: Richard
Title: Sikaflex
Message: Sikaflex webpage: http://www.sikacanada.com/eng/msds/msdsind/msdslist.htm

Jun 9, 2000 - 07:59 - From: Dan
Title: Window FIx
Message: Richard - thanks for the Sikaflex info, I'll locate a local source. The drivers door had been apart before from what I can tell (edge of the orange piece broken, clear RTV used to re-seal the rear access panel). Following the instructions in the "door strip" article, I used a couple of small screwdrivers to pry the forward edge of the orange piece towards the inside of the car while pulling up and it popped off right away [after all the write-up on this little clip, I figured WOW! If this is the toughest part of the job, this will be a piece of cake!] -- while the door strip article has a bunch of great detail photos, there isn't a close-up of the "orange thing" REMOVED so you can see how it works (basically a a plastic piece with U-shaped cross-section that grabs the threaded lock rod by its own "spring" tension when mounted in the lock button). Other points: my access panels were also held with the plastic rivets and sealed with Sikaflex...seals were not broken; I think I'll replace the plastic rivets with stainless sheet metal screws when I re-assemble it (I'll probably be the NEXT guy going back in there!). Any additional ideas on replacing the clamp & clip? remove the window?

Jun 9, 2000 - 09:24 - From: Bill Luton
Title: tire pressure
Message: You might want to check the accuracy of the owners manual. That is a performance car and it is hard to believe that the suggested pressure is that low. That might be worth checking as a possible misprint. You might check what the maximum pressure is on the OEM tires which could lend a hint and would at least help determine how much under the max pressure that their suggested pressure is. Once you put on tires other than what the manufacturer specified, you are pretty much on your own. The owners manual would have been written for the specified tire and would have a note that if you use a different tire, follow the tire manufacturer's recommendations. On front versus rear bias/balance on pressure, I do that for racing but not on the street. For racing, I'm trying to put in just enough pressure to keep the tread on the ground and no more. On the street, I'm running within the safe level and this car has no problems with oversteer so there is no need to lower the rear pressure for more grip at the tail. Also, running the same pressure in all of them means I can put any wheel on any corner and not have to worry about what the pressure is and I have the wheels off this thing about twice a week most of the time._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 9, 2000 - 09:43 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Another Gone Promo
Message: I've nothing as in depth as downloading trailers and frame-by-frame viewing, but they had a plug on CBS this morning and showed some film content. A group of people around a red convertible with the hood (the one in front of the windshield I think the wrong hand drivers call a bonnet [I'm kidding]). Two men sitting in the car asking each other if they are going to be able to steal enough cars. A woman working under the hood, the hood appears to be hinged at the base of the windshield and she is hotwiring with a pistolgrip switch that has a button on the end of the pistolgrip. She hits the button, the car starts, turns next to the hood and says something to the effect of no problem, back to the front of the car in the next view where the hood is already down and the four round headlights come up, end of scene. Now, if I saw what I think I saw, Ferrari's would not have an engine in the front (how do you hotwire a car in the front luggage space, it rather implies that the engine is being hotwired and that the car has an engine up there) and a Ferrari hood hinges at the front bumper, what we call "clam shell style". So I'm wondering what door wedge style two seat convertibles would have the engine in the front and a hood that hinges at the base of the windshield, and the Elan is at the top of the list. But maybe I was mistaken._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 9, 2000 - 11:35 - From: John Lafleur
Title: Paint work
Message: After a little fender bender, I'm looking for a paint shop to touch up my Elan. Does anyone have any recommendations in the Los Angeles area?

Jun 9, 2000 - 13:46 - From: charlie
Title: orange clips
Message: I cheat , i break them off and bought a pack of 20 =) first time i removed it i just pried it off slowly, and didn't break , next time it did.. They are tricky, i don't think you are meant to get them off without damage (at least not easily) hence lotus selling em in bulk packs, someone found out which car they were also used on its on the board archives somewhere so you might get em cheaper elsewhere. As for the panels, i used silicone rubber adhesive sealant, it sticks enough to hold it firmly, but not so much it won't come off easily. Also i used 3M contact spray adhesive to stick on the carpet.

Jun 9, 2000 - 15:28 - From: Scott
Title: Lotus at Watkins Glen, anyone?
Message: Anyone going to Watkins Glen over Labor Day weekend. Looks like a real Lotus-fest. visit site http://www.lotuscarclub.org/watkins.htm  to read about Lotus being featured at Watkins Glen. paraphrased..."Lotus will also be the weekend's featured marque and will be honored with a Lotus-only race. This contest will be open to any period race-prepared Lotus, including those which would not ordinarily be vintage-eligible, such as the Elise Sport 190. To spur participation, SVRA will be allowing any Lotus entrant to pay the members' entry fee, rather than the higher non-member fee, so Lotus racecar owners are encouraged to dust off their rides and bring them out to play. The Glen has also arranged with Lotus, Ltd. to have a car corral. The corral package will cost $59 per person and will include the following: a weekend pass to the races with access to all public areas, including the race paddock and garage area; preferred parking in the Lotus-only car corral on the inside of Turn 1; a courtesy tent at the location of the car corral with tables and chairs for comfort and shelter from the elements; a catered barbeque lunch on Saturday; controlled lapping of the race circuit... For the Lotus track day on Monday, September 11, prices have been kept to a minimum to encourage a large turnout. For participants in the car corral or the Zippo U.S. Vintage Grand Prix, the track day will cost just $50. Those choosing to attend just the track day will pay $100, which is still a bargain. During the track day, instruction will be provided by Lotus, Ltd. member racers, led by chief instructor and pro driver Zack Zarcadoolas and club hotshoe Kyle Kaulback. As an added incentive to participate in the weekend's Lotus corral, cars with a corral sticker will be allowed additional controlled lapping sessions during the track day. It is unlikely that another track day will be available at any time with prices this low, so start preparing your car now! Lotus Cars USA, the North American distributor, will also likely have a display area. And there are additional activities not yet confirmed that will surely add to the excitement. Not specifically Lotus-related, but certainly a major activity running concurrently with the race weekend, will be the Ikepod Grand Prix Festival. The festival will include a road rally, a concours d'elegance, a "Glenkhana," a Watkins Glen Grand Prix reenactment and a fireworks display. Contact & Ticket Information You do _not_ have to be a Lotus, Ltd. member to purchase tickets for the Lotus weekend at the Glen. Tickets may be bought in advance through Lotus, Ltd. or at the event, although the former is highly recommended. Ticket prices are $59 per person for the Lotus car corral package only; $109 per person for the corral package and the Monday Lotus track day; and $100 per person for the Monday track day only. Now I just have to talk the wife into going. -Scott

Jun 9, 2000 - 17:26 - From: will
Title: watkins glen
Message: i wish i could go. unfortunately, there are no "lotus" days here in the 808 state (hawaii). so when i go to the track. i have to sit and wait for all of those damn turbo powered hondas and acuras. then wait and watch the mustangs and camaros fishtail half way down the strip. i'm sorry everyone. i had to vent to someone.

Jun 9, 2000 - 22:57 - From: Brian
Title: Quality Paint
Message: John Lafleur: You should take your car to European Motor Car Works, 1940 Placentia Ave, Costa Mesa CA 92627. Phone 949-645-7132. Ask for Kye. Besides being a fellow Lotus owner (Esprit), he specialises with Lotus and Jaguars, and he is a perfectionist. From my experience a lot of shops skimp on preparation and rely on super-thick paint which they sand and buff to a typical 'respray' finish that looks soft and thick (coincidence ???). At European, the car is perfect before it is sprayed and the quality finish is straight from the gun with just the 'right' amount of paint, this gives an appearance more like glass. You won't find a better paint shop, you won't be disappointed.

Jun 9, 2000 - 23:30 - From: Doug
Title: Hi, All !!
Message: Lots of good info this month!! John, I hope you are not going to use this as an excuse not to come to the gathering!!! Right now, I am trying to find out if the Elise 190 will be attending! I will be getting Bill's exhaust (Finally saved the $$$ for it) but don't know if I will have it in time to install for the drive. Also, if anyone has things to add to the site, send 'em in!--Pictures, write-ups, repair tips, etc. And if your email has changed or your car has changed since your Owners' List posting, let me know and I will change it. Ciao

Jun 10, 2000 - 04:14 - From: Steve P
Title: Lotus response on Tranny Oil.
Message: -----The original Mobil 1 RTS specified is NOT the same as the Mobil 1 engine oil. The RTS was specially formulated for extreme conditions. You cannot necessarily compare directly gear oil and engine oil viscosities, as it depends on the criteria used for measurement. According to Lotus The Castrol TAX-F 75W/90 and the original Mobil 1 RTS 9775 fitted are of a similar viscosity.----- My personal experience with the Castrol TAX-F 75W/90 is that it is indeed far thinner that conventional gear oil, and seems to run very well in Isuzu box.

Jun 10, 2000 - 11:10 - From: Dan
Title: Watkins Glen
Message: Scott -- We'll be there! along with a group of folks from the Cleveland area. Many people are going to the Glen instead of the LOG because of the distance to Ottowa this year, so expect a big turnout....I just received this news via e-mail:........Big news for the SVRA race and Lotus car corral at the Glen Sept 7-10. Emerson Fittipaldi will be in attendance and there will be a special appearance at the Lotus Corral so participants can have exclusive access to him for a short period of time. Also appearing that weekend will be Dan Gurney and Jack Brabham.

Jun 10, 2000 - 15:55 - From: Scott
Title: Broken downpipe...gone in 60 seconds
Message: Hey guys. I had the fortune to escape with the wife and go see the Nick Cage movie last nite (kids left under the watchful eye of grandma). I will save the movie review for another day. In order to see a movie, it was necessary to drive into town. Thus, the Elan had to be subject to really crappy roads (in PA, they don't repave, they patch and patch and patch) On the way home, I said to myself, it doesn't the exhaust note normally come from BEHIND the car? (Also, I have a straight pipe for a muffle, so I am used to some noise) but this noise was up front. I could not confirm anything last night since I could not touch the pipe. This morning, I reached under the front and grabbed the downpipe. Broke right at the front flange. Completely off. So, I now have a couple options: 1. Buy a new downpipe and hope it does not happen soon. 2. Buy one of Bills exhaust. 3. Or, pull the old part off, have my boys in my machine shop weld the flange (or a facsimile) back on to the pipe, find a braided section of the right diameter, cut the down pipe in half (remove a section) and weld the braided section back in. Anybody else that has had this condition ever consider improving the design? Oh, if you haven't figured it out yet, I love the challenge of doing it a better way. While I may just end up buying a replacement part, trying is half the fun. Hey, Bill ole' buddy, I bet you could sell an improved downpipe using your braided design!! (hint, hint) Any suggestions welcome. -Scott

Jun 10, 2000 - 19:11 - From: charlie
Title: downpipe and oil
Message: i had mine replaced i think it was $80 about the cost of a welding job and it'll hopefully last another eight years.. Steve so what's the verdict on the oil to use, i'm not clear on it...

Jun 10, 2000 - 19:52 - From: Doug
Title: Downpipe
Message: Scott, I am getting Bill's system and would be able to sell or give you my downpipe (about 1 year old) if you can wait a few weeks. Be sure to get new seals for it because they will be cooked and will crumble when you open it up. I agree with Charlie about the cost of new pipe vs. welding and the repaired weld may give out in not too long as it will still be weaker than new. How do you like the rumble of the naked Elan engine--I though it was surprisingly cool, except it was coming from the front of the car.

Jun 11, 2000 - 00:12 - From: Scott
Title: re: downpipe
Message: Doug, thanks for the offer. I will take you up on the hand-me-down. In regards to the sound, let me give you some background. I am owner #3 of the beautiful blue Elan. Owner #1 leased this car. He also took the dealer up on an offer for a 5 year, 100k mile bumper-to-bumper warranty. As you can imagine, the Elan saw the dealer for every little defect. One of the "defects" was a broken muffler. He had them put in a "sport" muffler. It was simply the glass packed type. If we have a 2 inch pipe, the muffler is no more than 4 inches in diameter. Well, over time, this sport muffler has had its insides disappear. Looking into the business end of the muffler, there is NOTHING in it. So, I have been driving the Elan from day one with an exhaust note equal to one with a "broken downpipe." Except my noise is normally behind me. Everyone that hears it agrees that the report fits the reputation of the car. Low and rumbling, the noise evens out at highway speeds. Also, I work for a manufacturing company. The weld job would be pro bono. So, the cost is significantly lopsided in regards to buying a new one. That's why I toyed with the idea of designing/building a better one. But, based on your offer, I will pull the broken one, have the guys weld the flange back on so I can at least drive it until your new toy arrives. Thanks again. Let me know what I owe you. PS: No Elan in 60 Seconds. Their list of 50 cars was seen alphabetically in the movie. -Scott

Jun 11, 2000 - 12:26 - From: Andy V
Title: Water temperature gauge
Message: Hi all! A problem I've had since buying my M100 '91 UK Elan a year ago: The water temperature gauge only ever moves up if I'm stuck in traffic. It's difficult to judge when the car's reached normal running temperature [and hence allow me to open the throttle that bit more!]. Is this the case with all Elans or could the sensor be faulty? Cheers, Andy

Jun 11, 2000 - 13:13 - From: Doug
Title: Temp gauge
Message: Andy, perhaps you have a leaky or stuck open thermostat! I just put in a write-up about the thermostat you can check out. You should start your car when cold and see if you can feel the water flowing out the main radiator hose just past the thermostat--if so then this is you problem!! Otherwise I think the only way to verify the gauge is to take the sensor out and put it in water heated to a certain temp with a thermometer and then check the resistance across it with a voltmeter!! Or you have some sweet coolant in there that we all wish we had!

Jun 11, 2000 - 14:28 - From: Ray Green
Title: Elan wheels
Message: I want to replace my standard 15" wheels with a new larger set. Can anybody tell me what size will fit i.e 16" or 17".

Jun 11, 2000 - 14:35 - From: Ray Green
Title: Wheels again
Message: Also what tyres?

Jun 11, 2000 - 15:56 - From: Scott
Title: downpipe removal
Message: Boy, its fun playing under the Elan! For those that have had a hard time figuring out how to get enough room under the car to work, here's what I did. I had one of those cheap 1 ton floor jacks. It has a max lift height of 14 inches. I jacked up one side of the car all the way, then put 4 2x6 inch boards under the front tire. I put it down and went to the other side and did the same thing. I had enough room to get all the way back past the last connection on the downpipe. Now, I am a big guy (46 inches across the chest) I still had enough room to lay on my side and use 2 hands on the rusted bolts. This will be a normal procedure for me for anything under the engine bay. Oh, by the way, it only took me an hour to get the broken downpipe out. I will see what my boys at work can do. I still want to investigate incorporating a flexible, braided connection into this section. I will keep you posted. -Scott

Jun 12, 2000 - 00:59 - From: Doug
Title: Gone in 60 . . .
Message: The car in question is a cherry red F355 Spyder with a black top. No Lotuses. I believe the Elan is probably a more exclusive car than about ALL the ones I saw on their list--except the Shelby edition perhaps. Anyone want to look into finding those Elans from the "I Shrunk the Kids" film and see if they are willing to part with them??

Jun 12, 2000 - 04:28 - From: Craig
Title: Le Mans 24 Hour Race
Message: Any of you guys (UK/Europe/US!) going to Le Mans for the 24 hour race - If you are, let me know and I'll wave as I pass you on the motorway - ha ha !! I am going with members of the MG club !!!! They are apparently letting me travel with them as I have a British car too, but I told them that as I have a Lotus Elan and they have MG's I should be a 'special guest appearance'.

Jun 12, 2000 - 04:49 - From: Steve P
Title: Tranny Oil
Message: Charlie, I guess it depends on who you ask as to which oil you should use! The Castrol TAX-F 75W/90 (I think this has the trade name of 'Syntrax') is what Lotus are now specifying and have used during Elan production. If you speak to the Isuzu guys then it seems that Mobil 1 engine oil is their choice. I guess either will do??!!

Jun 12, 2000 - 04:54 - From: Steve P
Title: Engine Temp.
Message: Andy, because of the poor resolution of the temp gauge I tend to use the oil pressure gauge to tell me when it's OK to use more performance. At least you then know the oils up to temp. and protecting your bearings ;-)

Jun 12, 2000 - 08:15 - From: George
Title: Vegas & Yellow Elans
Message: Doug, I'll be going Vegas very soon, within the next two weeks or so. I shall investigate if they are going to be willing to sell them.... :-)

Jun 12, 2000 - 08:33 - From: Dan
Title: Window Fix
Message: After being unsure of the cause of my window failure, I decided to remove the window to determine why it is "binding" on the rear tracks [guides on the center plastic "butterfly" piece that raises/lowers the window were broken off, allowing it to rotate under tension]. I was able to release the clip and remove the window without loosening the window tracks or the lift track [I think the lift track should be closer to the window -or- the window tracks should be adjusted to move the window closer to the track]. Once out, I noticed that one of the tubes(?) that are inserted in the sliding blocks was missing, but all the nylon blocks appear to be OK; I'd guess this was lost in the previous "fix" (when door panel was stripped, it was obvious that it had been apart before), but I'm not sure this is my problem. I think the problem is one of alignment of the window track and lift track - I think that the misalignment caused the center lift plastic piece to be pulled outward from the track and eventually got skewed and broke the guides off of it. My plan is to replace the center lift piece (any tips on this?) and adjust the window tracks and center lift tracks so that everything works with a minimum amount or force required to raise/lower the glass. Anybody have any advice on this alignment????? I'm not sure how much adjustment is possible.... The manual describes aligning the window for fit with the top, but doesn't refer to window operation (I will re-read this section). Has anyone done this alignment before????

Jun 12, 2000 - 13:11 - From: charlie
Title: water gauge
Message: Andy, i've never been able to get my temp guage down below (just under) 1/4 after running, even on a very cold night on the freeway at the ocean, which is pretty cold =) So i'd suspect something's up, does it go to 3/4 in traffic , that's the normal place it gets to , then the fans come on..... The Elans AC needs more one setting, where you can put it on blow hot and it routes it straight out the back or underneath or something, I've noticed that if you put it on blow hot during hot running the temp will drop 1/4 of course since that means its hot outside likely you'll die of heat exhaustion if the tops up =) i usually put it on the windscreen setting, and i've been wondering why my windscreen has been getting so dirty so quickly , i kept cleaning the outside, of course the two are connected its the inside that gets fouled up presumably from engine gunk makes you thing about what you are breathing ....... George vegas huh, let me know when your going i'll meet you there =) its been a month or so since i went last. We ought to arrange a nocal/socal trip to vegas sometime, its a good drive from nocal over the mojave, plenty of 150 opportunities..

Jun 13, 2000 - 09:54 - From: Steve J
Title: Wheels Wheeels Wheels
Message: Ray, I have just fitted 17 inch wheels to My Elan, 16 and 17 fit but make sure you get the correct offset! the closest to the standard +60 is +47. The car looks really cool with larger wheels. I have Avon zz1 tyres, I had the same ones on the std wheels, good all-around tyre, not to slippy in the wet! check out the wheels section on this site!

Jun 14, 2000 - 11:15 - From: Rod Little
Title: Wheels / Tyres
Message: Steve - what size tyres do you have on those 17" rims 225x17x40 ??? And are the rims 17x7 or 17x7.5

Jun 14, 2000 - 12:45 - From: Bill Luton
Title: offset
Message: I read through the wheel information and found something really ambiguous. The statement on offset says something like "it is not recommended to change the offset by more than 20%". 20% of what? Offset is the measurement from the center of the wheel to the mounting surface. There are cars with 24mm, 38mm, 45mm, and 60mm offset as well as everything in between and even negative and some cars use a 0mm offset, or centerline wheel. 20% of this particular measurement is pretty well meaningless or this statement would say that if the car came with a 0mm offset, 20% of 0 is 0 and therefore that offset can not be changed at all. And the permissible change for a car that starts out with a 60mm offset would be double that of a car that came with a 30mm offset. That doesn't make a whole lot of sense. If the statement stated something like that the offset should not be changed such that the measurement from the center of the tread track to the pivot point of the suspension is changed more than a certain percent to avoid added stress and fatigue on the suspension components, that would make a lot more sense. It's a interesting guideline, just lacks a good reference point to work right._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 14, 2000 - 14:26 - From: Rod Litt;e
Title: Wheels and more wheels
Message: I have found the following options for wheels with large offsets. 6.5x17 ET4 offset 49 7.0x17 ET6 offset 55 7.5x17 ET11 offset 61 8.0x17 ET11 offset 66. I am guessing that a 225 tyre is not going to fit on a 6.5x17, but wonder if it might on a 7x17. I also think maybe a 7.5x17 with 225 might rub/not fit at full lock - thoughts/experiances anyone. Oh. . they look quite nice 5 spoke wheels - but I only have a faxed copy of what they look like.

Jun 14, 2000 - 19:24 - From: Bill Luton
Title: tire sizes
Message: I hate having to repeat this, it comes up very often with Isuzu and Storm owners, but you must be extremely careful when selecting a tire to make sure that the diameter of the treaded surface is the same as the original equipment tire that the speedometer is calibrated for. The confusion comes in because people assume that the second number in the tire size is the sidewall height (EG: 205-45-16, 45 being the number in discussion). This is called the aspect ratio and is not a measurement of the sidewall height but a ratio which allows you to calculate the sidewall height using the tread width. The sidewall is a ratio of .45 in relation to the tread width. Keeping in mind that this is a ratio that depends on the tread width, a 225-45-16 tire is not going to have the same sidewall height because the sidewall is .45 in relation to the wider tread width of 225 and is therefore a taller tire. How this applies to the discussion at hand is the suggestion of a 225-40-17 tire, which is too tall to keep the speedometer accurate on an Elan. 205-40-17 works out to a correct size for accurate speedometer reading, as does 225-35-17. Look at the wheel and tire calculators at: http://www.isuzuperformance.com/isupage/#otech  ._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 14, 2000 - 22:21 - From: Tony V
Title: Turn Indicators
Message: A while back someone was talking about their indicator lamp on the dash not flashing with one side but OK with the other...Anybody ever come up with a solution. Mine is doing that now....Outside signals are OK on both sides...but the inside indicator only works when I actuate the right signal...

Jun 15, 2000 - 09:29 - From: Ian H
Title: Rear Wishbone
Message: After overhauling my rear calipers and replacing my front, I was removing the old flaky paint from the rear wishbone only to find that it has a hole in the top about 2cm by 3cm. This part retails at £234 UKP, does anyone know where I may get a cheaper part from, is their an alternative etc.. Any help would be gratefully received.

Jun 15, 2000 - 10:35 - From: Rod Little
Title: rear wishbone
Message: Not only expensive but also hard to get hold of I believe. Last months Club Lotus mag, had an advert from another company offering the part I believe - no price on the advert though.

Jun 15, 2000 - 10:38 - From: Scott
Title: rust prevention
Message: Speaking of rust, has anyone come up with a regular regimen to tackle the rust that will eventually crop up on the suspension parts? I've been lucky so far, but I know that some of the paint on the rear parts are beginning to flake. I want to know how to repair and then prevent this from happening again. All suggestions welcome. -Scott

Jun 15, 2000 - 13:36 - From: Ian Hampson
Title: Rear Wishbone / Rust
Message: Thanks for you help Rod, unfortunately I do not get the Lotus Club Mag so if you could supply some more details it would be appreciated. Scott, along with yourself I plan on keeping the other parts for some time so I am planning to get them cleaned up remove any flaking paint and treat with some rust guard and then paint with hammerite, I am also going to get the underside waxoyl'd which should prevent further rusting. Thanks again.

Jun 15, 2000 - 18:27 - From: Lance Johnson
Title: Short shift kit
Message: I haven't been able to find any information about the Short Shift Kit for the M100. Has anyone had this done or know about it? What is the cost? I'd really like to get one. After shifting in my Esprit, the Elan feels like I have to move the shifter 5 miles to each gear. Thanks!

Jun 15, 2000 - 18:56 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Short Throw Shift Kit
Message: http://www.isuzuperformance.com/bills/drivshift.html#bi

Jun 15, 2000 - 23:18 - From: will
Title: wheels
Message: bill i am glad you broke down the wheel thing. i have 17" wheels on my elan. they are from RYNER. i have 205/40/17 tirs. i use the nitto 555's. i used to have the 455's. they started screaming at about 50 mph. i was not confident in the tire. most of my friends use the 555. their cars range from a nissan sentra to a lexus sc400.

Jun 16, 2000 - 05:14 - From: Richard
Title: Re: Rusty Wishbones
Message: Ian, I wouldn't use Hammerite as it dries with high and low spots (Hammered finish) instead use Smoothrite that gives a more uniform finish. The secret of good adhesion is as usual in the preparation of the surface. Has anyone any experience of POR 15 or any phosphating solutions. I have painted mine with Smoothrite and then Dinol waxed over the paint but it still comes off. Whenever I have the car serviced I get underneath and touch up all the bare areas with more Dinol wax. I have heard of some people (including a Lotus dealer) welding plates onto the wishbones. Have you had the car regularly Dinol treated (every 2 years?) as required by the servicing schedule? The reason it has to be repeated is because the Dinol wax washes off. Can you take a photograph of your wishbone? Richard M100 Register, Birmingham, U.K

Jun 16, 2000 - 07:26 - From: Richard
Title: New Rear Wishbones
Message: From Club Lotus News 2/2000 page 9 UK source of M100 rear wishbones: Midas Metalcraft 44 (0)1234 378995 I think they are still under development, let me know price and availability if anyone phones them

Jun 16, 2000 - 07:36 - From: Dan
Title: Rusty Wishbones/Window Fix
Message: Richard -- I've used POR15 on many Europa/Elan suspension parts during restorations. It an unusual product in that it chemically bonds with metal (even rusty metal! hence POR-Paint Over Rust), cures fast in heat & humidity and it VERY tough once cured (ie NO solvent will touch it after its dry!). Comes in gloss black, clear, silver; for my suspension pieces, I always have them sandblasted first (it adheres best to bare metal), prep with lacquer thinner to remove any oil or blast residue, then apply the POR 15. It is thick paint, so you may want to thin with their expensive solvent or xylol. Since the gloss black shows imperfections too well (and my personal preference for suspension pieces is semi-gloss), I usually paint the POR15 coated pieces with Eastwood Chassis Black paint as a final finish coat -- hides most imperfections and looks closer to original. Caution - POR15 is toxic stuff! use gloves and well ventilated area. Anyone consider powder-coating the wishbones? RE: WINDOW FIX -- I've got the parts and I'm about to re-install my driver's window -- anyone have any advice on ALIGNMENT of the window & tracks????? Doug? Jade? Charlie? have you guys done this before?????? I'm going to align for least resistance sliding up/down....window doesn't seal well to top now, so maybe I can address that as well??? or is the fit a compromise? Any advice will be appreciated.

Jun 16, 2000 - 09:48 - From: Ian H
Title: Rear Wishbone Replacement
Message: I rang Midas Metalcraft and they have just finished the first batch which were made to order. They have been snowballed by the demand for these parts and are planning another batch in the next 2-3 weeks. I was quoted a price of around £175 UKP, +VAT and whatever the bushes cost. Thanks for all of your help.

Jun 16, 2000 - 09:52 - From: Doug
Title: Windows
Message: Sorry, Dan, I am a window virgin--mine work just fine.

Jun 16, 2000 - 13:32 - From: John
Title: Turn Indicators
Message: I had the same problem, recently. Typically that's an indicator that your turn signal light is burned out. Indeed on my Elan, my right front turn signal was out and needed to be replaced.

Jun 16, 2000 - 16:15 - From: charlie
Title: window fix
Message: david over in santa cruz repaired his window, i haven't seen him about for a while, i'll dig up his contact details. unless hes lurking =)

Jun 16, 2000 - 21:28 - From: Doug
Title: Turn Indicators
Message: I second John's comment about a burnt out bulb as the cause. I have seen this with other makes of cars before. It causes the feedback circuit to fail and thus the indicator light does not come on.

Jun 16, 2000 - 21:43 - From: Jamie
Title: re: Disaster Struck....
Message: George, do you know the verdict on your car situation? Let me know. I hope it's okay and all fixed up. The weather has just been awesome. We need to go cruzing.

Jun 17, 2000 - 20:42 - From: Douglas
Title: Brake upgrade
Message: Has any one seen or had any experience with the "brake inch upgrade" kit shown on the KIA Elan Club site. I have tryed E-mailing them and gotten no answer. They only have the details in Korean. But a 15" disc would look great.

Jun 17, 2000 - 22:02 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Big Brake Kits
Message: I have been approached by another company and offered big brake kits that would retail for under $1,500.00, which is half what KVR gets for the kits I currently offer for the Elan and Isuzu cars (They have also offered to make two piece OEM size rotors for Elan for me). On the big brake kits, they can put together various combination of calipers and disk sizes, including stainless hose sets and DOT 4 brake fluid, all to bolt directly on. I am in the process of collecting front steering knuckles so they can crank through the prototype work. On size, a 13 inch diameter rotor requires a 17 inch wheel. If someone is selling a 15 inch rotor kit, this will require 19 inch diameter wheels to clear the caliper._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 18, 2000 - 11:00 - From: Douglas
Title: Brakes
Message: Thanks for the feedback Bill. Would the new brake kit fit all four corners, or just the fronts? And with the four piston calipers what kind of head space is necessary as I am making an effort (all be it difficult) to stay with a +60mm offset.

Jun 18, 2000 - 12:03 - From: Steve
Title: AP Brake Upgrade
Message: Has anyone fitted this upgrade, it seems to be the best option but i've been quoted around £1200 plus fitting (front only). Is it really worth it ?

Jun 18, 2000 - 16:58 - From: will
Title: jae-kyoon jeong
Message: i want that body kit. the ground effects are what i need. i could not tell in the picture, but are the lights flush? if so. where can i get them? i really want the whole conversion. well except for the back seats. but i want that look for my car. no-one makes any body kits for this car. i tried everyone. i even had someone in austrailia trying to find some stuff for me down there. it is very upsetting.

Jun 18, 2000 - 18:17 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Brakes and fiberglass
Message: Big brake kits are all front only. This is always what they call a big brake kit. The fronts do 90% of the job of braking and really, anything more than drum brakes on the back is well beyond the capability of almost every front disk and rotor combination available. I have never seen a big brake kit for the rear of any vehicle, and this is probably mostly because reengineering the emergency brake would be a total nightmare._ _ _The kit we are working on would be front rotors and calipers in various sizes. Most likely the smallest would require a 16 inch wheel (convenient, that is what you guys start out with) and a larger size for a 17 inch wheel. Offset would remain unchanged. Wheel fitment would remain unchanged. The idea is to cram bigger parts into the same hole without changing anything in fitment, only requiring a minimum wheel size, which would not be a problem for you guys since the Elan starts out with a 16._ _ _I have a local fiberglass company who will be working on Isuzu and Storm aero kits this Fall. I have kicked around the idea of offering OEM replacement panels for Elan. Aero parts for Elan would not be that much of a stretch, though would require a volunteer with an Elan and a large budget. The plus would be that the volunteer has input on what the kit looks like._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 19, 2000 - 06:19 - From: Rod Little
Title: AP Brake Conversion
Message: I only have ever read two reports on the AP Brake Conversion, and both said that it transformed the braking. However for much less cost, just changing the fronts to EBC Greenstuff or Tarox pads and discs, and going for braided brake hoses you will have *much* better braking and pedal feel. I have never seen those two upgrades compared, and as the standard brakes are so poor I'm not surprised the AP conversion gets written up so well. Paul Matey Sports Cars are the people that have been doing the AP Conversion, and I am sure a call to them would get more information.

Jun 19, 2000 - 07:57 - From: Richard
Title: EBC UK Costs
Message: From Powerstop 16/6/00 sales@powerstop.co.uk Kevlar Roadsport Green front pads 39.00 UKP inc VAT and delivery

Jun 19, 2000 - 08:21 - From: Rod Little
Title: Tarox Costs
Message: I don't have the exact costs at hand, but a set of Tarox front discs and pads, worked out almost the same cost as a set of Lotus parts.

Jun 19, 2000 - 09:57 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Pad Prices
Message: I don't know how much Lotus US marks up parts to cover import and their own profit margin, but in the US, OEM Elan front pads are $98.00 (58 UKP) and rears are $124 (73 UKP). I have four different racing pad sets available for both front and rear (VGX, Hawk HP, Carbon/Kevalr Street/Racing, and Carbon Kevlar Racing) ranging in price from $58.00-127.00 (34-74 UKP) for the fronts and $66.00-127.00 (38-74 UKP) for the rears._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 19, 2000 - 12:39 - From: Ian H
Title: Midas MetalCraft
Message: Midas MetalCraft has called me back from the sales office on 01933 355512, they are supplying the Lotus dealers (UK) with their parts and have already sold some to Paul Matty, Chris Neil and CJ Dean. They are also going to be working on the front wishbones for the Elan in the future.

Jun 20, 2000 - 11:29 - From: Craig
Title: Massive Brake Fade at Le Mans
Message: Went to Le Mans last weekend - FANTASTIC EVENT if you have never been - lot's of other Elan drivers there too. Anyhow, went for a very fast crack on the course down the Mulsanne straight etc. It was great fun until.........got to the end (70 mph ish) hit the anchors and very little happened !!!!! It was only the immense grip from the car that took me around the bend - VERY SCARY. Basically, I could put my foot flat and the brakes were only giving me 20% braking power max !!!!! I believe this is what they call the dreaded brake fade. I am not too sure of the cause but if any of you could help I would be grateful of your help/experiences as I don't want that to happen again !! I have fairly new (600 miles) EBC greenstuff kevlar pads/discs at the front. The Lotus garage suggested I could have boiled my brake fluid and recommended a bleed and "DOT 5" or higher brake fluid putting in. Once cold the brakes were fine again, the Elan had been stood on a very hot day (35 degrees) and I had been braking quite hard for a short period. Help - I don't want to buy any more pants just yet !!!!!

Jun 21, 2000 - 02:09 - From: Doug
Title: Brakes
Message: Craig, sorry to hear the story but I'm still jealous of the fun you had! Check to be sure the calipers are floating and working well. It sounds like a GOOD brake flush is in order. Old fluid can get "wet" in the system and the moisture in the fluid can boil if used hard--a good flush should prevent this. You can only change to DOT 5 if you completely remove all the old DOT 4 as they are not really compatible--so it would be possible to do the change and even at the same time but I can't say if it is worth it. If you want the Elan to be a race/track car you may want to get the AP set-up.

Jun 21, 2000 - 05:12 - From: George
Title: Worst Dealership....
Message: God Damn Boardwalk Auto Center. This has to be the worst dealership ever in customer service and support.... Att: All Bay Area Lotus owners, order your parts somewhere else. My body shop ordered my bumper cover around 2 weeks ago, the word last Thursday was: "It would be there within 3 days." eventhough we clearly stated we wanted next day. Today, I just found out that they called my shop and told my body shop guys that: "it would be there within 1 1/2 weeks." Lazy ass bastards... Sorry guys, I am just venting.... Last time, I order a plastic clip for the hood support rod, that little plastic piece took 2 weeks, and I thought that was bad.... Although, I spoke to Dave over at Platinum, what a great experience. Very nice guy and helpful. Doug, thank you for the referral. :-)

Jun 21, 2000 - 05:22 - From: Ron
Title: Kia Elan.eks (2+2 Redesign)
Message: Find some more pics of the Kia Elan.eks design exercise at the following address: http://hongkonglife.pe.kr/profile-b4.htm

Jun 21, 2000 - 16:44 - From: Stephen Jones
Title: Wheel/tyre sizes
Message: Rod, the tyres on my 17in wheels are 225x40x17 they are 7in width. If its of any interest to people in the UK the wheels were supplied by a company called wheelmania in Birmingham. The guy told me he supplies Paul Matty with wheels for elans He knew about the offsets etc. The wheels are the super touring type, Look excellent!!

Jun 21, 2000 - 17:02 - From: Stephen Jones
Title: OOPS TYPO
Message: Sorry Rod, tyre size is 205x40x17 not 225xx40x17. Also are we about to get Disguised kia Elans? ref photo on main page, looks good though. Seems lotus are renting out the Elise platform to any takers, eg Vauxhall VX220 and now Proton are using the platform for their own Elise variant due 2002/3. Must be the way things go nowadays!! Vauxhall say they have taken 100 deposits for the VX220. everyone knows its really a Lotus!

Jun 21, 2000 - 18:56 - From: Doug
Title: Wheels
Message: Steven, I'll be expecting some pictures of the new wheels from you! Why not some wider rubber for the Elan shoes??

Jun 21, 2000 - 19:28 - From: Bill Luton
Title: tire size
Message: If you want to keep the same tire diameter, 205-40-17 or 225-35-17. Remember the earlier discussion that the second number is not a literal measurement of sidewall height but the ratio of sidewall height that can be calculated from the tread width measurement, so a 225-40-17 tire is taller than a 205-40-17. The reduced ratio combined with the increased width makes the 225-35-17 tire very close to the same diameter. Using a larger diameter tire throws off the speedometer, which is annoying and can lead to tickets, especially when you go larger and the speedometer reads lower than your actual speed by 3-10 MPH. More important from a performance point of view is that the taller tire effectively makes the final drive gearing of the car taller as well, decreasing acceleration ability._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 22, 2000 - 08:04 - From: Martin
Title: For Sale
Message: Does anyone want to buy my Elan? It's one of only 31 silk red ones built and has a chassis number after the official production run list. I have a letter from Lotus providing all details of manufacture giving proof. Recent CAS, disks, EBC greenstuff. FLSH. It's bloody good but my bachelor days are over, my girlfriend is moving in today and I cant fit her and my son in the car at the same time. And no...I cant get rid of my girlfriend or put my son in the boot. It's a sad day

Jun 22, 2000 - 08:36 - From: Richard
Title: CAS Hall Effect sensor repaired
Message: I followed Charlies CAS repair information on my CAS Hall effect sensor at the weekend and drove it today with no engine light. Maybe it's early days as the light only came on intermittently/randomly. Looking at the soldered joints through a microscope you could see fractures around the connector pins to PCB solder joints. I used a dental pick to get out the rubber potting and didn't damage the PCB or joints at all. I've sent some photos of the joints to Charlie so he may update his site.

Jun 22, 2000 - 08:43 - From: Dan
Title: Window Fix/Mid-Ohio
Message: Recap: my driver's side window would "jutter" on the way up, sometimes stop completely...eventually got worse and required manual assistance at the rear to raise and lower it. Thinking that the slider blocks were shot, I disassembled the whole thing, aligned it as best I could, lubed it (after replacing broken lift plastic piece) and --- it still "juttered" going up! I noticed that the window seemed to lift easier in front, then get "cocked" it the tracks and would jutter and/or stop (my original symptom!). On further inspection I noticed that the "brush seal" (whiskers) material had come off (found in bottom of the door!) the rear inside glass support pad. I re-glued it to the bracket, adjusted the alignment and BINGO! smooth running window! There are 4 support pads that guide the glass in the door, and it seems that if they are not in place, a great deal of stress is placed on the motor and all plastic pieces in the mechanism. If you're having any window problems and/or have to replace the motor/gear drive as documented in Golden Gate Lotus' site and this site, CHECK THE GLASS SUPPORT PADS! Doug - I'll do a more comprehensive write-up and try to get some digital photos to supplement our "window fix" section. Anybody going to the Vintage Races at Mid-Ohio this weekend?

Jun 22, 2000 - 09:40 - From: Rod Little
Title: Sad Day for Martin
Message: Its a sad day indeed Martin. How about getting your girlfriend to have a practical car and you keep the Lotus ? It worked for me :-)

Jun 22, 2000 - 09:45 - From: Rod Little
Title: Door glass - rear sticking
Message: I completely concur with Dan. I don't think its the motor or plastic clips that are the problem with the window lift. Its something that causes more stress lifting the rear of the window. And looks like Dan has found the offending parts. Last time jammed, I DID not keep trying to get the window up using the motor ( this WOULD have broken the motor or clips ), instead I got the car home and took the door apart. It was easy to notice there was something causing friction for lifting the rear of the window. In my case I applied lots of WD40 and cleaned up the rear track, then reassembled. That cured the problem for me, but looks like I need another strip down and look for those brushes !

Jun 22, 2000 - 20:02 - From: Scott
Title: message board mojo...
Message: Here's a weird one...has anyone else experienced this? You visit Doug's message board and read about a strange malfunction from our fellow posters. You chuckle, thinking they really have it bad. The next time you turn on the Elan, that strange malfunction has now materialized in your Elan. While the US cars are essentially the same age, its strange how the problems happen in spurts. To give an example, I read about the turn signal indicator that would not work on the dashboard. The very next time I sat down in the Elan, my indicator light stopped working.(burned out turn bulb) Now, IF my windows stop going up, I will never come back to this board again (chuckle chuckle) Later -Scott

Jun 23, 2000 - 06:40 - From: Jason
Title: Brake Fade & GF
Message: Craig, I've never had the brakes fade once at temperature - then again I've not been on the Mulsanne!. What I have noticed though is that occasionally I'll get what seems like fade. I know it's not, because if I immediately re-apply the brakes they stop like hell (I love the noise of the rotors). What I did discover last week though was one of my front calipers was sticking. Got new pistons / sliders & overhaul - now it works fine again. Definitely go for DOT 5 also. Martin - as for the girlfriend "issue", put her in the boot & your son in the car!

Jun 23, 2000 - 09:20 - From: Bill Luton
Title: Brake Fluid
Message: You guys do realize that DOT 5 is highly susceptible to water contamination and is designated for use only in race cars where the brake fluid is drained and changed between every race. DOT 4 is the farthest you can go in a street car. It is an even trade with higher boiling point but not so bad for water contamination. If you guys fill your Elans with DOT 5, you'll either be bleeding the brakes every day before driving or have so much of a water contamination problem that brake fade would be a good thing in comparison._ _ _Bill Luton

Jun 23, 2000 - 19:28 - From: Doug
Title: Elan Gathering Tomorrow !!!!!!!
Message: Hi All!! Just got back from a hell work week and gettin' psyched for the Gathering tomorrow. I have a new car toy I will show you all tomorrow that is making me grin real big!! Should be an excellent turnout, but still haven't heard back from 4 regulars??!! Bring your SUNBLOCK !! See ya there at 11 a.m.

Jun 23, 2000 - 23:53 - From: Dan
Title: Elan with 700 miles!
Message: FYI latest Lotus Ltd reMarque has an M100 Elan, Black, last one imported with just over 700 (yes, seven hundred!) miles on it.....$39K. [by the area code, its in the Cleveland/Akron area.....maybe my lottery numbers will hit this week?]

Jun 24, 2000 - 12:22 - From: charlie
Title: concept elan on main page
Message: i think ferrari might have something to say about that concept. But i do love the F355

Jun 25, 2000 - 02:36 - From: Barry Berman
Title: SoCal Meeting Success
Message: Hi everybody, I enjoyed meeting you all, and seeing all the great enhancements you've made to your cars. It gave me incentive to do that myself. Hopefully we can meet more often, exchange stories, and do more of the driving gig. It was amazing how people reacted when they saw a whole gang of elans coming by. Barry.

Jun 25, 2000 - 05:50 - From: Steve P
Title: Dot Com!
Message: Hope you all had a great day out, I'm hoping to meet some Elans at Goodwood race circuit on the 22nd? Anyone else booked for the day with Trackfun? Anyhow, thought I'd put my pennies worth into the fluids debate, we've done the tranny oil so I suppose it's brake fluids next ;-) I've used Halfords DOT 5.1 fluid for the last couple of years with no problems. After an hour in the garage I've located the bottle....which states "DOT 5.1 exceeds the current specifications for DOT 3 & DOT 4. It will mix safely with other brake fluids which conform to these specifications. High performance brake fluid developed for motor vehicles and motorcycles except where mineral based fluids (LHM) are specified (e.g. Citroens)". Off to chat to my neighbour, he's just bought himself an Elan..!..What a crazzzy guy ;-)

Jun 25, 2000 - 12:43 - From: randy
Title: Elan Meeting
Message: Just wanted to say thanks to all involved, I had a great time. Charlie, the accelerator fix worked, much better response, thanks. Randy

Jun 25, 2000 - 21:15 - From: Tony V
Title: Indicator lights
Message: Thanks all...Yes one light was out....that is why the inside indicator was only blinking on the right signal...left was out...

Jun 25, 2000 - 21:20 - From: charlie
Title: weird
Message: so as we are driving home through brentwood we bump into a BR green elan, 20 x 60 i think.. He said he'd heard about the meet, but didn't make it, next time! very odd though leaving an elan meeting and bumping into another =) glad the fix worked randy, that's the cheapest easiest performance upgrade you'll ever get.

Jun 26, 2000 - 05:45 - From: tone
Title: Elan S2 Questions
Message: I test drove an Elan S2 Saturday. My first one. It was trade, and the bloke wanted £16,000 in the ad. It had done 30,000 miles. I though this place doesn’t know what there selling or there is something wrong with it. Anyway, the car didn’t look like it had been looked after. It was still dirty, the dealer( not a lotus dealer ) didn’t even clean it. It has two holes in the roof ( caused by the frame ), it had a lot of stone chips on the front ( tail gater? ) It had new tyres!! The Seal Trim look worm around the doors etc etc. inside looked new. I very much doubt I’ll buy it. But I have some questions… 1. The car I looked at had a piece of wood bolted down under some black felt in the far right of the boot on the floor. The grey cover looked like it had been trimmed, but I’m not 100% sure, with the felt covering the wood ( looked like MDF ). Is this normal??? 2. When we was driving it, and parking ( we had the roof down so we could here the engine ) we keep hearing a woosh of air sound ( like blowing down a big pen ) this happened when we was parking it… is this normal? And is this the Turbo? 3. The Steering seemed stiff ( compared to other power steering I have tried ) is this normal? thanks tone

Jun 26, 2000 - 05:51 - From: Ian H.
Title: Rear Wishbone / Brakes
Message: In the end I have managed to get my wishbone welded and painted with SmoothRite, all for 5 pounds thanks to a friend of my Dads. I now have the brakes sorted and have a valid MOT. I am using DOT 4 Synthetic brake fluid and have been for over a year now and it has been fine. If any of you bleed the brake yourself then you may like to know that there are 5 bleed nipples (one on each wheel and one on the proportioning valve between the rear wheels) and that as it is a diagonally split tandem system you should bleed both system simultaneously. Thanks for your help.

Jun 26, 2000 - 08:16 - From: Martin
Title: For Tone
Message: Tone, it sounds like a bit of a dog to me although the steering is normally a bit stiff. If you are interested my perfect one of only 31 in the world silk red elan se s1 is for sale. I have a letter from Lotus cars about the cars production etc. Full Lotus service history, 63K, Leather, AC etc. Beautiful and original (not the usual pink red or blue) I lice in-between Huddersfiels and wakefield near J38 M1 Drop me a line if you are interested £14,700 ono

Jun 26, 2000 - 13:01 - From: Lance Johnson
Title: Timing belt/engine work
Message: Where do you guys take your cars for engine/clutch work? Do you take it to an Isuzu dealer or specialist? My car has less than 15K miles, but after 9 years, it is time to change the timing belt. As for the Lotus dealer, no thanks. My local dealer leaves a lot to be desired (I have an Esprit under warranty, so I deal with them a lot). I live in Phoenix, in case any of you happen to know a good place to take it. Thanks! Lance

Jun 26, 2000 - 13:38 - From: charlie
Title: S2
Message: isn't the S2 the one everyone says to avoid at all costs ? I can't remember for sure, alt.cars.lotus ought to know =)

Jun 26, 2000 - 15:54 - From: Steve
Title: S2 Answers
Message: I've had my S2 from new and I can't remember seeing a bit of MDF ??? The air sound when parking sounds like it's when you move the steering wheel, mine does it too, and the demonstrator I tested, the salesman and service dept's say it's normal, they reckon it's the power steering pump. Yes the steering is very heavy considering it's supposed to have power steering, I always assumed that Lotus bleed of some assistance (hence the sound) to improve feel ? Anyone know for sure ??

Jun 26, 2000 - 17:48 - From: John
Title: Elan S2 Questions
Message: The steering sound is common to almost all Elans, to my understanding. At least I haven't heard of someone who doesn't have the swirling sound when turning at very low speeds. I'd bet that the power steering is of the variable assist variety. In other words, the faster you go, the less assistance you get so that, as Steve pointed out, you get improved road feel. I prefer that over a "floating" and "drifty" feel.

Jun 26, 2000 - 20:59 - From: Doug
Title: Timing Belt
Message: Lance, I would say Platinum Motors would be worth the drive to L.A. to get the job done. Call them at 714-546-4000 and you could schedule it with Dave. Although I had my timing belt replaced last year at about 55K miles and have the old belt which is in near perfect shape!! Lotus recommended 5 years or 50K miles but this rec was raised a bit since. It may be worth taking the cover (Large black plastic cover on the right end of the engine) off the timing belt to see its general condition and cleanliness. Your car has so few miles that the belt probably does not need changing. Isuzu work has been contracted out to weird dealers--by this I mean that when I call for parts it is at another brand's dealer that "just got the Isuzu contract" and probably does not even have any Isuzu service experience. Also they will not touch an Elan anyway! I wrote the part numbers for all the belts in the "common replacement parts" area of the "repairs" section. Since the belts ARE Isuzu parts I would recommend getting them from the Isuzu dealer (as I did) to save a lot of $$$ over buying the identical parts from Lotus!

Jun 26, 2000 - 21:53 - From: Tony V
Title: Blow off Valve and Whoosh
Message: Seen some mention of others with the blow off valve from Top End.. I have one and am wondering if it is working properly. also have a one of their Air Cleaner Assemblies... When I step on the gas..medium to hard acceleration...I get a sucking sound and then when I shift. I get a whoosh... is that right....it seems that there is an awful lot of sucking sound..is that from the new air cleaner? What are your experiences?

Jun 26, 2000 - 22:33 - From: Scott
Title: suck and whoosh
Message: Tony- I too get the sucking sound under hard acceleration. I used to get the same sound, but not as loud with the original intake equipment. It only became more noticeable with the TopEnd intake. In regards to the whoosh, that's the blow off valve releasing the pressure of the turbo. Previous discussions were regarding the BOV and some inconsistent sounds that came from it...ranging from a whoosh (correct sound) to severe snorts (incorrect sound). I've found that having the right spring in the BOV will dictate its correct operation. I would not worry, yours sounds like its set up right. -Scott

Jun 28, 2000 - 01:21 - From: Doug
Title: Ball Joints
Message: Well upon having my NEW EXHAUST installed last Friday I noticed the right front suspension anti-roll bar ball joint was starting to come apart. Sure enough on the Gathering hill drive the joint popped and was banging around in situations where the anti-roll bar was being actively torqued. Having an autocross this weekend, I needed to get it replaced or not go!! So I called trusty Platinum Motors yesterday; they sent me the part right then and it arrived today!! I installed it without a problem, and I'll put a little write-up about it up soon. I did get the complete exhaust system from Bill and can confirm what Mark H. said that this system is GREAT!! The turbo response/lag time is MUCH improved and there is even MORE power now!! It sounds fabulous too. Again I will post a write-up about it soon.

Jun 29, 2000 - 00:22 - From: Steve
Title: Timing Belt
Message: Doug, from the sound of your post you have a new time/mileage period for timing belt replacement ? I only ask as I'm now at 5 years but only have 7000 miles showing, is it worth the £400 now or wait ??

Jun 29, 2000 - 01:15 - From: Doug
Title: Write-ups
Message: Well the new write-ups are up!! There's one on the Stan's Headers exhaust system in the Upgrades section and one on the Ball joint replacement in the Repairs section. Cheers

Jun 29, 2000 - 01:20 - From: Doug
Title: Timing Belt
Message: Steve, I believe I remember hearing it was raised to 6 years/60K miles but don't take my word for it on this! Call a trusty dealer and ask them! Or email the factory for us. Personally I think that is even being conservative--which is the job of the recommended change timing though! Belts of the type are used in many motorcycles, planes, cars, etc. and hearing of failures is possible but rare! I'm actually looking at my old belt right now and still can't find any flaws in it!! But hey the burden is on YOUR shoulders--I'm just giving the advice.

Jun 29, 2000 - 02:34 - From: Martin
Title: messages
Message: Where have all the messages gone?

Jun 29, 2000 - 12:55 - From: Lance Johnson
Title: timing belt
Message: Before I bought my M100, I talked with Dwayne from Lotus Cars USA. I used his help a lot. He would give me the warranty history of any M100 that I was looking to buy. I asked him about the timing belt. The car is 9 years old with < 15000 miles. He felt that it would be a good idea to change the timing belt because of age. I had the car inspected before I bought it and they said that the timing belt looked like it was in great shape. However, considering what it will cost if it breaks, I think that it is very wise to change it.

Jun 29, 2000 - 13:54 - From: charlie
Title: paint job
Message: so its getting close for the full respray, recommendations in socal? The gelcoats beginning to give . . . www.charliex.net not all there yet but getting there (Again).

Jun 29, 2000 - 16:49 - From: Tony V
Title: Timing Belt and Dwayne
Message: Dwayne ( from Lotus) is really a nice guy...He was at LOG 19 in Watkins Glen and as I was the the co-head of the event, I had a lot of chances to talk to him. I was under the impression (and I don't know from whom.) I was under the impression that there really was not a time limit on the belt...only mileage.. Gee...mine is 9 years old...with 25K miles...should I be worrying about it? Has anyone had one let go? Let's open this up to suggestions and information....

Jun 29, 2000 - 17:26 - From: will
Title: roll bar
Message: i was thinking of adding a rollbar to my car. has anyone else done it? i was looking at the one on the audi tt convertible. that really looks nice.

Jun 29, 2000 - 22:21 - From: charlie
Title: dwayne
Message: yeah he's cool, he's the only one (apart from the net) who talked sense about my brakes. timing belts are scary things, i had one go out on my 911 it trashed my engine (different setup though), and the miata i had had a scary factory warning for changing it then went along the lines of if you don't do it perfectly you'll mash your engine..

Jun 29, 2000 - 23:52 - From: Michael Weidlick
Title: Bypass valve for Sale
Message: I sold my Elan a few weeks back. The only upgrade that did not go with it was the Top End Performance Bypass valve. If anyone is interested, email me. Of course it is in perfect condition and includes all mounting hardware. Original retail $325. Selling for $200.

Jun 30, 2000 - 03:27 - From: Brian
Title: Quality Paint
Message: Charlie, we met at last weekends Elan thrash, my car had the red and black seats, and the bodywork has been totally repainted 6 months ago. I don't know if you noticed the paintwork, but it is flawless. I'm very pleased with the work, if you want the same you should take your car to European Motor Car Works, 1940 Placentia Ave, Costa Mesa CA 92627. Phone 949-645-7132. Ask for Kye. I believe he does all of the painting for our SoCal Lotus dealer (Platinum). You wont find better.