January 2003 Message Board

Jan 1, 2003 - 00:57 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Theo, gear cable
Message: I have a gear cable which the previous owner had replaced that he said there was nothing wrong with, that Lotus had changed the design so it would no longer come off when you attempted a speed shift, so he had it replaced. Problem is I don't know which of the 2 cables it is, but you are welcome to it if you want it.

Jan 1, 2003 - 01:12 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Lowering the Elan
Message: Here is an idea some of you in Europe might want to kick around. From time to time people have asked if there was any way to lower the Elan. I have a simple & cheap way to do it if you have 15" wheels. Yokohama has ceased production of their fine AVS Intermediate tire. They are (were) made in Japan so I would imagine are sold and available around the world. The Tire Rack here in the US has clearance priced these tires for several months now and one of the few sizes they have left is 195/45ZR-15. This tire is only 10mm narrower than the stock tire, and the same aspect ratio as the US tire. In any case, you would not give up much traction as the tire has a very soft compound and will only last 12-15k miles, and should give you more of the "riding on rails" feeling we have in the US. Anyway it will lower the Euro car by 14.5mm, which is .57 of an inch... more than half an inch. The Tire Rack is almost desperate to get rid of the ones they have left as they are now priced at only $38-USD, under half of their original price. I have a feeling your tire taxes must be higher than ours, so perhaps you should consider having one of those "Boston Tea Parties" to set things right. Anyway, just a thought I hope may help some.

Jan 1, 2003 - 01:35 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Happy New Year!
Message: Happy new year to you all and thanks to Doug for providing this great site. Best wishes and safe driving.

Jan 1, 2003 - 12:01 - From: Melvyn Cross
Title: 1964 Lotus Elan S4
Message: For Sale Lotus Elan S4 Convertible Rebuild Project - £1,000 spent - £5,000 - Ring for details Mobile Phone No. 07905026049

Jan 1, 2003 - 13:46 - From: John
Title: Flat Battery Probs
Message: Ok guys need some help, the battery on the girlfriend's elan, keeps going flat, have tried 2 batteries, both proven to be good. Have now disconnected the boot light and today cleaned the Earth connection onto the chassis from the battery. The battery losses charge overnight and will just (if your lucky) start in the morning, the drive to work charges it enough to get started to go home. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Jan 1, 2003 - 14:04 - From: Theo
Title: Check engine light
Message: Hi, me again. My engine check light is permanently on. Shorting the two pins does not put the system in a diagnostics mode - the light does not flash at all. The engine can rev above 4000 (I have read somewhere that an engine fault will limit revs to 4000). Any ideas why the diagnostics mode cannot be entered?

Jan 2, 2003 - 04:30 - From: Laurence
Title: Battery probs
Message: John, is your girlfriend just doing short journeys ? If so that could be the problem - in winter esp. with heater, lights & wipers going. Both my Elans have given me similar problems but they have been second cars that only get used weekends. I leave a 'Draper battery master' (from Halfords) connected all the time when not using the car. This is just like a small mobile phone charger and just puts a 300mA charge on the battery which does no harm but overcomes any discharge and eventually recovers a battery that is out of condition. You can still leave the car alarmed. The other alternative is to get an auto electrician to check the alternator for faults and if needed all the circuits with an ammeter (in-line at the fuses) for a discharge (I understand if it's not an alternator fault, Alarms are often the culprit). Laurence

Jan 2, 2003 - 08:01 - From: chris
Title: Flat Battery Probs
Message: John, my battery goes flat every now and again. I only use the car at weekends and often find the battery is flat when I come to use the car. If I go for a long run then the battery stays charged for 3-4 weeks which makes me think that the alternator is charging fine. I've checked the boot light which is turning off when you close the lid which leads me to suspect the alarm is the source of the power drain. I'm now so fed up with charging the battery that I've fitted a battery cut switch (called dis-car-nect) which is available from club lotus or frosts and costs £10.00. Just remember not to install the fused link otherwise the alarm will continue to drain the battery. Chris.

Jan 2, 2003 - 09:16 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: fuel tax
Message: Interesting article in yesterday's newspaper about fuel taxes. Here, in the locality I live in, the tax per gallon of motor fuel is about 46 cents a gallon. The breakdown is 18.4 cents in Federal tax, 19.7 cents in State tax, and 8 cents in local tax. By the way, premium 93 octane is $1.51 per gallon at the pump. The state of Georgia has no STATE fuel tax. Those who live about 30 miles north of me will drive up to Georgia to fill-up, and save a little money. However, there are other nasty things in Georgia like an 8% state income tax, while in Florida we have no state income tax; so I'll take what I've got!

Jan 2, 2003 - 09:58 - From: andrew
Title: Crunch !
Message: oops, I wish that I'd got that brake upgrade done before Christmas, rather than plan it for the NY. Was cut up by lady-driver in a large old Volvo in Hammersmith - hit the brakes but the Elan 'Anti-lock brake' effect failed to get me out of trouble! Got a cracked & bashed left-hand wing (as sat in the car), two bashed alloys (hit kerb on drivers side trying to avoid) - Where is a good place to get quotes for repair in the UK? Maybe it's worth sending to SJ as they seem to have a lower per-hour rate? Any ideas appreciated!

Jan 2, 2003 - 11:12 - From: Ben W
Title: Battery master
Message: Lawrence, how much was the battery master from Halfords? John, not to overlook the obvious, could your battery need replacing?

Jan 2, 2003 - 13:07 - From: Roger Tilley
Title: Hood seals, new hood, brakes and problem!
Message: Happy new year to all Elan owners. I see there has been lots of comments on hood seals. Before I had my new hood I discovered that SJ Sportscars sold seals much cheaper than other dealers. If I remember correctly, intermediate and falling pillar seals (set of 4) were about £85 at SJ whereas other dealers wanted about £400. In the end I got a new hood from Trim Technology/Paul Mattys as the old one had the usual tears each side and an opaque rear window. At £500 for a new hood with all new seals and a recon frame it seemed silly to spend loads on new seals. A word of warning about the new hoods, mine was replaced ( free by kindly Paul Mattys) after about 4 months as the first one developed bumps and tears on each side in the usual places. The latest version now has velcro holding down the hood on the falling pillar so the hood can be pulled clear of the linkages when it is folded down so no stretching /bumps and tears can occur. The latest one is great, no leaks, drum tight and the frame apart from looking better than the old rusty one doesn’t rattle hood up or down. Classicar Automotive at last got a supply of rear calipers. I fitted them along with new front ones and at last got decent brakes and a non sticking handbrake. Two cosmetic jobs, gave me great pleasure as both cost very little! I fitted a new front spoiler lip rubber ( ~£6 from Walkers, thanks to the person on the site who gave that tip) The car looks much better as the old rubber was a bit ragged and I feel very smug as the Lotus item is ~£100 even from SJ. Also free, to finish off the refurbished wheels, I made some new OZ stickers by copying an old one and printing off some on clear adhesive labels. The car passed its MOT on Christmas eve and all is well apart from the one fault it’s had since I bought it. Occasionally the dash and instrument lights go off, sometimes for days and then magically come back on. The sidelights are OK, it’s no bother in summer but not too clever this time of year. Has anyone got/solved a similar problem? I’ve checked all the connections as far as I can. When the dash lights are on, they are all working and the dimmer works OK. The dimmer module is the green one in the bank above the drivers footwell. I’ve been quoted ~£90 for a new one so of course I have not bought one! ( especially as it may not cure the problem) Is there a cheaper GM replacement? I’ve even toyed with the idea of removing the dimmer module and taking a supply direct from the sidelight feed as I never use the dimmer anyway. Anybody any ideas? Roger

Jan 2, 2003 - 13:50 - From: Rob
Title: fule tax
Message: Matt, O, Matt, O, Matt, if only we had the HIGH TAX'S on fuel that you have in the good ole US OF A! We pay about £4.00 A gallon for petrol (GAS), that's about $6.00 a gallon!!!! think your hard done to, I don't think so. If only we paid £1.00 a gallon, we can still dream through.

Jan 2, 2003 - 14:43 - From: Maggie Browne
Title: Xmas pressie
Message: Late I know but have had no internet over christmas. Now on my third Elan, first one flattened - as some will know, second non-turbo to be passed to my daughter, now I have a beautiful, mustard yellow N reg S2. personal plate M13 LOT (MB LOT) Happy old lady

Jan 2, 2003 - 15:07 - From: Doug
Title: good work
Message: Roger, I am jealous. I would get my top refurbished for that price if I weren't a day away by jet airplane. Wonder the shipping costs of something that big? Can you give us more info on the caliper costs? I assume they are refurbished and you must exchange your old ones to get them too? I have a bum dimmer switch that I never adjust, but I agree that it may be your problem and you could replace it or bypass it altogether--I have never even dimmed the lights. It should be a GM part and maybe even a generic one would work, but you'd have to be sure it'll fit the dash hole right--it is a bugger to reach in there from the top access oval too. But congrats on all your Elan upkeep and I'm sure you'll be smiling for a while because of it!

Jan 2, 2003 - 15:22 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Rob
Message: I was talking to a Brit, as I start out many a workday either that way or with the Dutch, being that they/you leave work at noon to 1pm my time... anyway, he said to me that when on holiday in USA he always asks for the BIGGEST rental car they have; his favorite being the Lincoln Town Car so he can stretch out in luxury. And he enjoys that almost more than any other part of his vacation!

Jan 2, 2003 - 16:46 - From: Owen
Title: Check engine light
Message: Theo - i had a similar problem recently, with the check engine light coming on erratically and it not entering diagnostic mode. I found that I had to replace the ECU, which solved the problem. They are not cheap though, £550 from lotus - i don't know where you are, but in the UK south west lotus centre are selling them off at £100 + VAT, which is a bargain if you need one. Do you have any other symptoms? When mine was playing up, the engine idled very high (around 2000-3000rpm) and the mixture was rich, since it backfired lots.

Jan 2, 2003 - 17:46 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Custom front pipe - Need feedback FAST!!!!
Message: Here's the deal: The mechanic called today to say that a custom mandrel-bent high-temp coated downpipe (attaches to the precat and extends to beyond & behind the front subframe) with a stainless-steel flex piece so you need not worry about any more broken down-pipes will run $325-USD. This piece can have attached to the end of it either a catalytic converter or just straight pipe and can be either 2" or 2.5" in diameter, your choice. Either way it WILL NOT have the famous SQUISH (restriction) which plagues all Elan pipes known to man: stock, SJ, and Paul Matty alike. In fact, I can send (E-mail) you a picture once I get the other pipes made as I have an original exhaust as well an an SJ stainless exhaust to demonstrate this squish vs. my truly open & free-flowing pipe. In any case this pipe is short & light enough to be shipped overseas without an exorbitant freight cost. Any average muffler shop should be able to finish your exhaust in fine fashion with this piece in place, as all the hard, labor intensive work will have been done and the rest of the exhaust is readily accessible. I need to know by Tuesday how many of you will likely order this pipe so that I can have the proper number made up. This is a once in a lifetime NOT to be repeated offer. I am not asking for a deposit, I trust you (those of you whose names I recognize) and will have the pipes made up on your word alone. If you have any questions E-mail me on the board or call me at (904)292-1569. Brian, the cost of your pipe will be $300 as I already had a 2" Stainless Flex-piece in my possession which I had never used. You (all) are purchasing a piece of first-rate quality which will not only give you a significant performance increase and look great, but will also last for the life of your car, as it will not rust or deteriorate with the passing of time like standard aluminized pipe.

Jan 2, 2003 - 18:36 - From: Peter W
Title: Battery
Message: Just a quick story that could possibly be of help at some point. My Elan has had the check engine light come on intermittently, especially when turning on or off accessories, the light would come on and the engine would miss for a couple of seconds. Checking into it last night, and starting with the battery connections, the problem was with the negative terminal clamp/post assembly (the two piece assembly - a clamp to the battery terminal connected to a post for the cable to clamp to, the two pieces connected to each other via a small bolt - there is a plastic insulator between these two parts, so the current must travel through the small bolt. There was a bad connection at this bolt, with scoring and evidence of sparking. Cleaning up this connection has fixed the electrical gremlins.

Jan 2, 2003 - 18:59 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: mufflers
Message: Here's the site if you are looking for a great muffler at a nice price. Buy an oval shaped vs. a round one and you'll be set... http://www.showtimeautotrix.com/exhausts.html 

Jan 2, 2003 - 19:51 - From: Peter W
Title: Re: Custom front pipe - Need feedback FAST!!!!
Message: Matthew, I am interested in the 2.5" version. My exhaust is stock right now - do you know if this would bolt to the Bill Sun Pre-Cat Eliminator if I bought one? You can e-mail me directly or on the board - Thanks

Jan 3, 2003 - 04:52 - From: laurence
Title: Battery Master
Message: Ben, it was originally about £17.50 but last time I was in Halfords, before Xmas, they were also 20% off! Just a comment, as it's a bit of a pain accessing the battery in the Elan, I used to leave mine permanently connected to the battery via the small crocodile clamps and then plug in to the mains when needed - it has a very long and thin lead on the 12v battery side. Now I have a cigarette lighter/accessory socket on a flying lead connected directly to the battery, I have put the corresponding male connection on the charger lead so it's easy to remove it/re-connect it. I still use it with the car outside but charger/mains connection in the garage. It completely solves the discharge problem and the Stereo, alarm etc. keep their memory! Laurence

Jan 3, 2003 - 05:05 - From: Laurence
Title: Dash light dimmer by-pass
Message: Roger, somewhere in the 2001 (July/August I think) archives for this board I described how you can pull the green dimmer control unit from the relay panel under the dash and hot wire the dash lights with a link wire to by-pass the dimmer control (sorry I can't remember the exact details now). Apparently it's also quite easy to change them to come on permanently when the engine is running like on the later cars (and S2's). I don't have the details on that fix but it should help to keep the dials a bit warmer and cut down on the condensation problem. Laurence

Jan 3, 2003 - 05:06 - From: Rob B
Title: Re: Custom front pipe - Need feedback FAST!!!!
Message: Matthew, put me down for one please, my exhaust has started to vibrate again and it's only been three months since it had a new cat on. The exhaust sounds the same as it did when i had the last cat replaced. Don't know if it's because I'm running at a higher boost pressure and that's killing the cat!!! How would you like payment?, you can mail me off board if you want to. That muffler site you posted is great, but why would you go for an oval pipe and not a round pipe?

Jan 3, 2003 - 05:23 - From: Laurence
Title: Hood fix/velcro mod
Message: Roger, the fix you mention 'The latest version now has velcro holding down the hood on the falling pillar so the hood can be pulled clear of the linkages when it is folded down so no stretching /bumps and tears can occur.' on your new hood sounded a very good idea. I'm not completely clear on exactly where the velcro goes and how it works in practice. Is it a fix that's left alone and works automatically or is it something you have to adjust when stowing the hood? Also is there any chance you could describe the exact location/way the velcro is used in a little more detail so it could be added to our existing hoods and hopefully extend the life? Laurence

Jan 3, 2003 - 06:40 - From: Darren
Title: Lotus on the way up ?
Message: I just read in my local rag that Lotus Engineering (sister company to Lotus cars) has just signed a £35M deal with an unnamed manufature, to allow them to use Lotus's Versatile Vehicle Architecture as used in the Elise. This VVA technology will allow the unnamed manufacture to produce small volume (typically 10,000 units) niche vehicles. This contract is in addition to the £10M contract they also won to develop a new engine based on their variable camshaft technology.

Jan 3, 2003 - 06:52 - From: Darren
Title: Battery conditioning
Message: I use a conditioner on my Elan as it spends the winter tucked up in the garage. I removed the plastic tray from the center console, drilled a hole in the back of it, mounted a suitable two pin electrical socket into the hole, connected the wires from the back of the socket directly to the battery (using a 3A fast blow fuse) and then soldered the corresponding plug onto my conditioner. The result is that I simply lift the lid on the center console, connect the conditioner and disconnect it when it's not needed. It's quick, simple and with the inline fuse, safe. One thing I would add to this, if you are planning to leave it connected for some time, I'd also remove the battery cover for extra ventilation.

Jan 3, 2003 - 07:17 - From: Ben W
Title: Donington 2003
Message: Now that the new year is upon us, is it too early to start planning for Donington? Being a new Elan owner, I've never been before, but do a bunch of you normally meet up beforehand somewhere? Doug - What happened to the social message board?

Jan 3, 2003 - 08:07 - From: Laurence
Title: Dash light dimmer by-pass
Message: Roger, I found the original info it follows: I have a 1990 SE and can tell you that when I got it the Rheostat Module had been removed and a link wire put across two terminals to bypass this circuit and make the instrument lights work. A replacement Rheostat module is about £150 from Lotus in the UK so that is probably why a wire was used. Anyway if your car has the same wiring as mine (I think an S2 might be different as the instrument lights come on with the ignition), instructions to hot wire the instrument lights are as follows. Fit two male spade connectors to about 1.5" of wire. The rheostat module is fitted right below the Indicator flasher module in the panel of relays fitted under the dash (on a right hand car this is between the steering wheel and side of the car and facing the front of the car). Lay on your back in the footwell and shine a torch up under the dash. Unplug the Rheostat - it's a bright green cube - from the middle of the right hand row. You then insert the link wire spades into the middle left and middle bottom sockets (as you are looking at them - there comfortably lying on your back in the footwell trying to hold a torch and put a hand up under the dash at the same time). These should correspond to terminals 6 & 8 on the Rheostat. Might be worth a try ! Laurence

Jan 3, 2003 - 08:17 - From: Laurence
Title: Donnington
Message: Ben, last year Rod at www.mardibloke.co.uk arranged a meet - see his site, also for UK social stuff check out and sign up to the UK site www.british-cars.co.uk in the Lotus Elan area (It's for all Elans but tends to be a bit dominated by us - chatty - M100 owners). Laurence

Jan 3, 2003 - 10:11 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Custom front pipe
Message: The custom made front pipe will bolt to Bill Sun's PCE as Bill Sun's piece is a BOLT-IN duplication of the original. By that I mean all the bolt-holes align with the OE (original equipment) piece. For payment E-mail me your ZIP code & city so I can get a freight quote from UPS (I will have to wait until next week before I have a pipe to weigh), then send a Bank Check or Money Order for $325 plus freight in USD to: Matthew Welsh 10229 Indian Princess Rd. Jacksonville, FL 32257 He is going to fabricate these next week. When I type in the shipping info on the UPS-site it gives me a rate for each type of shipping they offer, so I will E-mail you back all the rates and you can choose which way you'd like it shipped. Thanks, Matt

Jan 3, 2003 - 11:15 - From: Theo
Title: Engine check light - Owen
Message: Owen, thanks for your reply. My symptoms are as follows: The check light is permanently on. The car idles OK, but does backfire a bit under heavy acceleration. A couple of questions: Am I right in saying the ECU is a square box mounted at the top back of the engine compartment with two sets of cables connected to it? Is it possible at all to test this unit somehow? Does anybody have a schematic diagram of the unit for possible repair/rebuilt?

Jan 3, 2003 - 11:25 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: oval vs. round muffler
Message: The stock dimensions of the M100 muffler were 5 x 8, making it an oval muffler. The length of the BODY of the muffler (not counting any pre-pipe or tail-pipe) was 17". That length, 17", is the maximum length muffler you can fit into the "hole" which has been hollowed-out on the underside of the Elan. That part of the Elan is made of composites, and was molded for a 5 x 8 muffler to fit up into it. That is not to say you cannot use a round muffler on the Elan, it just will not fit into the pre-molded space as well. Besides, if you look at your original muffler you will see that 3" from the end of the body is a clamp which bolts around the entire diameter of the muffler. At the top of this clamp (which you cannot see with the muffler still in the car) is a prong which fits into a rubber exhaust hanger to hold the muffler in place. There is a single bolt on one side of this clamp. Undo this bolt and you can remove the clamp and re-use it to mount ANY other 5 x 8 (oval) muffler you buy. This will greatly simplify re-installation of your new muffler into the car. Many new mufflers you will find for sale have a body which is only 14" long. That is fine because you can bolt the clamp to whatever point on the muffler will mount it in the proper position. I would tend towards buying a muffler which was manufactured with a tip already on it, as that will keep you from having to buy yet another thing, a muffler tip. Keep in mind you cannot fit a dual-outlet muffler on the Elan as the pre-cut outlet at the back of the Elan's body is not wide enough for two tips

Jan 3, 2003 - 11:52 - From: Rob B
Title: oval vs. round muffler
Message: Sorry Matt when said oval i thought you meant the actual tip of the muffler not the body. I was wondering what size to get after seeing the HUGE range on the showtime web site.

Jan 3, 2003 - 13:09 - From: Alan Betts
Title: ECU location
Message: Theo: If your car is the same as RHD UK spec the ECU is located under/behind the glove box. Going from memory look for a metal box about an inch deep and about six inches square with a plated lid and a connector with 40 or so wires going to it.

Jan 3, 2003 - 13:21 - From: Steve P
Title: Engine Flushing
Message: Thanks for the comments on flushing now in the archives! Guess this is very much a personal thing based on ones own experience. Looking at a number of enthusiast sites it does now seem to be recommended for a number of modern engines – in particular Mazda for ensuring smooth operation of the HLA’s (Hydraulic Lifters). I also tempted fate and poured some into my wife’s Mitsubishi GDI petrol engine and it has definitely resulted in less noise from start up. Both these engines have had regular oil/filter changes so I wasn’t too worried about dislodging anything too big, an older pre 90’s engine with unknown history and weak oil seals might be a different matter all-together. I’m not going to put any into my Elan for the time being just in case!

Jan 3, 2003 - 14:40 - From: Rob B
Title: My S2 now a Norma!!!!
Message: NO TURBO...... I pull up to the traffic lights a Boxter'S' pulls up next to me, the lights go green and my Elan had turned into an XR2, did I feel stupid as the Porka sped off into the distance. It sounds like the turbo is moving (can't be 100% sure) but little or no movement on the boost gauge and no engine boost. I have a bypass valve which I have taken off and checked over but it does not look to be passing, any other suggestions PLEASE. Rob

Jan 3, 2003 - 15:25 - From: John
Title: RE: Battery
Message: Cheers for the ideas guys, seems to be running fine now, Peter W's idea about the clamp on the negative terminal rings a bell, had noticed that the clamp wasn't on the battery to well. Again could have been the boot light, need to shut the video camera in there when I have time, I'll leave it disconnected for the time being. Also I'm thinking that something may have got wet in this glorious weather we've having over hear (Jersey CI). Anyway thanks again. John

Jan 4, 2003 - 01:37 - From: Dave M.
Title: Rob/boost
Message: Check your intake hose connections from the turbo outlet to the throttle body. I had one come loose that couldn't be seen without actually moving the pipe and leaked enough air to give me 0 boost.

Jan 4, 2003 - 01:44 - From: Dave M.
Title: more exhaust stuff
Message: I spoke with Matt's shop today and was quoted $325-350 for bending up the same pipes and having the same flanges fit that I will have for my system. That seems steep to make more copies, but I'll see what I can do when I talk to them again on Monday. With Bill's PCE, a free-flow cat and muffler, then a tip, the total would be in the $900 range I'm estimating for a great 2.5" mandrel-bent system. If you're interested, let me know ASAP as I'm not sure I'll be buying any copies of the pipes at that price without someone who's wanting one. My Visa is pretty much hurting after the holidays...it can't take too much more. ;)

Jan 4, 2003 - 01:48 - From: Dave M.
Title: funding my insanity
Message: Since the new bits are here or coming for the new intake system, I'm selling the entire stock intake plus the Isuzuperformance upper and lower intercooler pipes. See the For Sale section if interested as I've got a link there for pics at the Isuzone site.

Jan 4, 2003 - 01:51 - From: Dave M.
Title: OK, I'm really done now.
Message: A very Happy New Year to all. One last thing: there is a Thunderbird turbo compressor wheel and housing on the Isuzone site for $40. I make no claims on condition and it may already be sold, but just an FYI I came across. http://www.kipanderson.net/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Parts;action=display;num=1041200211 

Jan 4, 2003 - 03:05 - From: Dave M.
Title: so late I'm tired & stupid
Message: Sorry, forgot the upper Isuzuperformance pipe may be spoken for already. I'll post again if it doesn't sell.

Jan 4, 2003 - 04:09 - From: Rob B
Title: Boost
Message: Dave, thanx, I have already checked the connections except for those on the intercooler which i can not get to, will have to get the elan up on ramps for that.

Jan 4, 2003 - 04:56 - From: Mor
Title: Elan in Thailand
Message: Is there any difference in the spec. of the m100 and the accessibility of the part in Thailand or in this region. Anyone can comment on this?

Jan 4, 2003 - 09:08 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Elans in Thailand
Message: Hi Mor, I live in Lam Luk Ka just North of Don Muang airport. I drive an Elan SE Turbo. There are around 100 M100 Elans in Thailand. I believe that most if not all Elans in Thailand were brought into the country as personal imports. All the ones I have seen here have been UK spec. At the time the Elan was in production there was a concession whereby Thai nationals returning to Thailand (such as students and diplomats) could bring cars back to Thailand at a reduced rate of import tax. The local Lotus importers are Benznakarin in Srinikarin Road. They stock routine service items like filters but if you need anything beyond that it will have to come in by air cargo. Add on 45% import tax and the importer's margin and parts can get very expensive. If you want to know what Benznakarin's service is like E mail me off line. The Elan is probably the Lotus most suited (or should that be least unsuited) to Thai conditions. The air con works well and it has better ground clearance than most Lotus models. I am sure you know that ground clearance is a real issue in Thailand given the state of the roads. If you are looking for an Elan in Thailand you will have to search hard to find a good car. Many have been ruined by poor maintenance, bad paintwork and the fitment of poor quality parts. You may be interested in my website: http://www.geocities.com/abmap2002/index.html  Regards Alan Betts

Jan 4, 2003 - 09:25 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Gearchange cables
Message: Guys, I am just about to replace the gear change cables on my 1991 SE Turbo. These are the original factory fitted cables. Seems to me that the design is unsatisfactory in a number of ways. My question is this: Are the S2 cables a total fix for gear cable problems on the Elan? I have not seen the S2 cables hence the question. If the answer is yes then I will buy them on the basis that there is little mileage in re-inventing the wheel. If the answer is no then I will probably design my own, get a batch manufactured and market them. I have had a look at the Elan Central write up on gear change cables and so far as I can see there is no 'plug and play' 100% ideal solution currently available. Unless, of course, the S2 cables constitute such a solution in which case that fact probably merits a mention in the Elan Central write up. Grateful for views. Alan

Jan 4, 2003 - 10:47 - From: Owen
Title: Theo - ECU
Message: Theo, Alan's right, the ECU on RHD UK cars is mounted behind the glove box. You can see it from underneath the glove box, or the glove box can be removed for easier access. When I first had problems with mine, my local mechanic knew an ECU specialist, who was able to check it somehow - he confirmed that it was knackered. I think that if the ECU goes, all sorts of strange symptoms occur. There are a few ECU specialists who can test and recondition them, but i don't know how good they are. If you know anybody with another Elan, then you could swap the ECU's - it's simple enough - and that would tell you. Any sort of self-testing is very difficult if it won't enter diagnostic mode, so if I were you I'd take it to somewhere for it to be tested properly.

Jan 4, 2003 - 11:37 - From: Mor
Title: Alan, thanks for the info.
Message: Alan, Thank you for the info. I also did look into your website, it'd be useful if I have an elan which now I'm searching for but is there anyway that I could know the price range of the elan here. Can you give me a hint? Thanks.

Jan 4, 2003 - 12:48 - From: rudz
Title: ECU
Message: theo, others have described to you exactly where you would find the ECU. just fyi, the item in the engine compartment you described is probably the headlight module.cheers...rudz

Jan 4, 2003 - 14:42 - From: Rob B
Title: R.I.P. Norma long live TURBO
Message: Just for every ones info it was the cat,(cat was replaced 4 months ago but i'am running mbc, K & n air filter and a bypass valve, all too much for the normal cat) had it replaced with a nice piece of 2.5" s/s and now its boosting upto .75psi. Just waiting on Matts down pipe to get the whole exhaust re done in 2.5" and then i will have it dynoed, fingers crossed bhp will be upto around 220bhp, wheel spin city yummy.

Jan 4, 2003 - 17:19 - From: Theo
Title: ECU - Owen
Message: Don't know what to do. Opened the ECU - it looks OK. I have tested some components and they seems OK. Problem is: There are no agents in South Africa, meaning no test facilities to check the bugger out. There are only 5 Elans in the country (so I was told by the previous owner) and I don't know where they are, meaning I cannot swap it with another unit. And if you think it was an expensive replacement for you, spare a thought for me and our poor exchange rate. The thing is, except for a bit of backfire under heavy acceleration, the car is normal. It is only the engine check light that is permanently on. So, do I have to replace the ECU? And what if it is one of the sensors causing the problem, and not the ECU. Is it maybe possible for you to check with the guy who worked on your car how the ECU can be checked if it is OK?

Jan 4, 2003 - 17:55 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Elans in Thailand
Message: Hi Mor, I would say price range from THB 400,000 to 700,000. Buy the best you can find. Buying cheap to fix up does not make sense because of the cost of parts here and difficulty getting them. Alan

Jan 4, 2003 - 18:36 - From: Peter Canepa
Title: Door repair
Message: Well here I go, today I opened the drivers side door, heard a "clunk" now the window does not go up. Ok so now we take apart the door and this site, has a complete instruction for the door removal. I have been wanting to replace my original speakers, so I will do that at the same time. My question is what's with the orange clip? If I break one, where do we get new ones. I want to be prepared before I tackle this one. Ferrari of Los Gatos has been pretty good for a few parts I ordered. They are now looking into Lotus logo floor mats for me right now. he says Lotus has them for the car. $170.00, I'm trying to get a picture to make sure they're kool. If so I'll pass it along. Thanks guys!

Jan 5, 2003 - 06:05 - From: robert collins
Title: Theo - ECU
Message: Theo - if you could possibly build or buy an interface cable and run ElanScan on your car it should shed some light on the problem.

Jan 5, 2003 - 07:34 - From: rudz
Title: Theo - ECU
Message: i had a similar problem with the car under heavy acceleration ie. boost but my problem was more of stuttering & hesitation. anyway, if you want to try, i finally found out that the culprit were the spark plugs. may be worth a try cos a set of plugs don't cost nearly as much as a replacement ECU. good luck ...rudz

Jan 5, 2003 - 21:06 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Don Ferrario - messages come back undeliverable
Message: Don, please read the message from Dave below. They will be working on the car Monday morning for probably not longer than 2 days, as I have 3 other front pipe orders (some of whom are going to buy your PCE as well). I don't see how you can get your stuff here in time unless you 2nd day ship it right away! The 2" pipe was for ONE individual so just disregard that, it has nothing to do with anyone else. The shop already has your PCE (Dave's). I'll get you a price on the shop doing a complete 2.5" mandrel-bent system from your PCE back, with the pipe ending where the muffler begins. That way you can just cut out the 12" or so of pipe your cat will reside in & weld it in. I don't know what kind of coating it is but it's dark gray & has not discolored or chipped from my XR2 which had a complete exhaust done this May. Keep in mind that shipping of a complete exhaust will not be cheap as the longest piece will be over 48" which will make for an "oversize" UPS parcel (billed at the 75-lb rate). Matt P.S. Don, The UK cars came with 50-series tires, not 45-series. That's why the numbers work out.

Jan 5, 2003 - 21:46 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Mandrel bent front pipe
Message: If you want one made up please let me know before the end of business Tuesday. FYI, a mandrel pipe-bending machine costs about 20 THOUSAND dollars. The hydraulic crimper/crusher at your local muffler shop costs $1,500 - and they will sloppily weld your pipe while it is ON your car. As Don Ferrario and another individual told me "there is no local person who can do this kind of work". Well, you get what you pay for. I am not saying Dwight is Mother-Theresa, but he has to somehow pay for that machine and the time he spends CAREFULLY fitting your exhaust onto my car. The only welds done on my car are spot welds to hold the pipe in place, until he can remove the pipe and weld it while it is on a table... small, smooth welds like a true professional. I am sorry to go on, but I am tired, and we have, in some degree, already put Bill's Isuzuperformance out of the Elan business. I am losing money on every pipe constructed as I am not passing on the 7% sales tax to you, and yet I have had 2 people ask me, "is that the best (price) he can do". Everyone has a right to make money. We should be glad for anyone who will make parts for our Elans, lest there be none. Dwight just started his business in April and has no credit with his suppliers. He must pay cash whenever parts are delivered. Are you really so hard up that you need him to lop off 50 bucks from his fee, or do you just want to feel like you've gotten a "deal"? Iv'e said my piece, please forgive me, Matt. By the way, I'm sure Don Ferrario is not making a living from the $225 he gets for his PCE. Almost anyone who is making dedicated parts for the Elan is working from the heart, not the head.

Jan 5, 2003 - 22:00 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: shifter cable
Message: Who was it that wanted the shifter cable? I found it in the closet today. It has part number A100F10016F (best as I can make out as it is someone else's writing) tied to it. It is the cable with the "cup" on the shifter end, not the straight-through connector. Is that the one you need?

Jan 6, 2003 - 01:46 - From: Doug
Title: US Elise
Message: http://www.lotuscars.com/elise_announcement.html 

Jan 6, 2003 - 04:30 - From: Philbo
Title: US Elise
Message: Gotta love that Lotus press release, "US model may be slightly different to current UK 111S specification"...like having a completely different powertrain!

Jan 6, 2003 - 08:05 - From: Dave M.
Title: garage sale continues
Message: I've added a K&N filter to the for sale section. $20. I sure hope I never have to make my car original again... I also have the stock filter (20,000 miles on it?) if someone wants it. Just pay shipping and it's yours.

Jan 6, 2003 - 08:45 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: US Elise
Message: Phil, that's great news, thanks so much! It looks wicked.

Jan 6, 2003 - 10:06 - From: Ed Miller
Title: LA Auto Show
Message: This past Saturday, several ClubLotus members got together at Donut Derelict’s in Huntington Beach, California, with famous Doug Abbott of www.LotusElanCentral.com with 5 Calypso Red (Bill Sun, Dennis London, Jacob Caldwell, Rich Lemieux and wife, Brian Barham) 1 Monaco White (Ed & Sean Miller), Lotus Elan M100’s, and 1 ’70 Lotus Elan in Norfolk Mustard (Ron Moore). While drinking coffee and sharing our latest upgrades and problems, we found *Peter Stevens* (famous Lotus Elan, Esprit and McClaren F1 designer) at the impromptu car show. Meeting such a legendary car designer was very memorable! He shared some thoughts on Elan and Esprit designing days. After this, several of us (Bill, Rich, Ed, Chili), met Peter Fan at his house and caravanned to the LA Auto Show. Once there, we met up with Gordonie, Michael Garibay, also Lox Thompson and famous Larry Marsala of the GGLC, who flew down for the show. Later, Dave Hall arrived from San Diego. At the show were: Arnie Johnson, Clyde Sheppard, Dave Simkin, and Harry Appleby (Sorry if I omitted anyone). While at the LOTUS concourse, we took group pictures and viewed the 3 Lotus Elise, and 2 Lotus Esprit’s cars and gave our views to Arnie about the Elise’s long awaited arrival to the USA shores. Arnie was able to share with us that the final engine for the Elise has been selected, but despite our clever interrogations – were not able to extract the specifics on this… With some hesitation, we left the LOTUS concourse, had lunch, and proceeded to view the rest of the show. Several hours later, we returned to say goodbye to the LOTUS folks, and Chili took some group pictures. Despite the lack of any new cars, the LOTUS concourse was filled with lots of viewers – including a blond woman that caught our attention, as she got into the Lotus Elise. Of course our interest was strictly honorable, to see how someone with a skirt would get into an Elise. The show was wonderful! Will definitely go back next year, hopefully, by then, the final LOTUS Elise will be there for personal viewing… I have posted some pictures at: http://community.webshots.com/user/lotus4luv  -- Ed

Jan 6, 2003 - 11:46 - From: Bryn
Title: Gear Cables
Message: Alan, S2 cables will be the 'fix' for your S1 if you are suffering from slipping adjusters on your S1 cables, but they will make no difference to the feel of the gear shift if that is what you are looking for (?). Given the cost of gen Lotus cables I don't think many S1 owners would rush to replace them until they really need to. S2 cables have metal adjusters on the gearbox end rather than the plastic ones on the S1, it is generally the plastic adjusters which fails, hence Lotus moving to metal for the S2. If you do the switch you also need the S2 gearbox mount bracket (cheap) and will need to change both cables at the same time. The Isuzu option mentioned on this site would I guess be as good as S2 cables but you will need to modify the existing gearbox bracket, and also find a friendly Isuzu dealer in the UK (I am presuming your in UK) who will get the cables in, not sure how easy this will be or how cheap given that they were never used on a UK Isuzu model.

Jan 6, 2003 - 16:17 - From: Dermot
Title: ELAN ECU and MEMCAL ID
Message: Hi Guys, I am trying to find out if the ELAN ECU is basically the same GM ECU as in the 4-cylinder Esprits. Esprit memcals are like gold dust. I have sourced a few Elan memcals and I was wondering if I swapped out the EPROM for an Esprit one would it work? The Esprit ECU is a GM 1228708. Any info on the Elan ECU hardware most welcome. Regrads Dermot

Jan 6, 2003 - 22:45 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Gearchange cables
Message: Bryn, I am looking at getting the cables manufactured with four design changes: 1. Replace nylon spherical joint on the fore/aft cable (which connects to the gear lever) with a steel spherical joint. 2. Replace the plastic cable adjusters with more conventional steel threaded adjusters and locknuts. A new support bracket to suit would be supplied. 3. Not sure what they are called but at the end of each cable is a steel tube which pushes into a plastic socket. These tubes support the free inner cable at each end. Replace all four sockets with steel. 4. Replace retaining clips at the gearshift end with a more secure arrangement. I am based in Thailand and all the major Japanese car companies have manufacturing plants here. There are a whole raft of component suppliers who support them, ISO 9001 accredited etc. I am talking to a company that supplies OE cables to Honda on Thursday. To my surprise they are able to offer a scalable response that covers small batch manufacturing as well as churning out zillions of clutch cables for Civics. The aim is to manufacture specifically for the Elan so that the cables will fit with no modification of standard components and all necessary parts would be supplied. Target price is £100 landed in the UK for the two cables and any associated components (principally the bracket that fits to the transmission). Testing would be done on my 91 SE Turbo. This would include finding the heaviest handed driver I know (I know just the man) and letting him hammer the car around Sepang GP circuit for a day. I would need to produce at least 25 sets to make this feasible but if there were a reasonable level of interest I think I would be prepared to take the gamble and go ahead.

Jan 6, 2003 - 22:50 - From: Tony V
Title: M100 Parts
Message: I have just put up on EBay a bunch of M100 and Esprit Parts.. One of the #s is 1876637634 From there you can see all the other auctions I have going. I am clearing out a Lotus dealers old M100 parts bin..so there may be stuff there you need. I will be putting up all kinds of parts over the next few weeks...so keep an eye out. You can see pictures of all the parts at http://www.drivingclothes.com link on the home page.

Jan 6, 2003 - 22:54 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Gearchange feel
Message: Bryn, Re. your point about gearchange feel. My guess is that the feel of the Elan gearchange is mostly to do with the way the gearchange lever and bracket mount to the chassis. Pretty easy to come up with a more solid arrangement but my guess is that Lotus did it the way they did for reasons of NVH. I may have a tinker in that area too.

Jan 7, 2003 - 04:20 - From: rudz
Title: gearchange cables - Alan
Message: alan, it's wonderful that you're working on one of the components of the Elan that always seems to be giving problems. this is merely a suggestion but it would be great if the gearchange feel could be enhanced with the improved bracketry. at the same time, if it doesn't take much more re-design efforts, it would be nice if it could have a shorter shift or shorter throw/travel of the gearlever.

Jan 7, 2003 - 07:05 - From: Bryn
Title: Gear Cables
Message: Alan, sounds like a great plan. £100 UK for a pair is V competitive, from memory Lotus charge £250 pair (of was that each?) plus the S2 bracket which is about £10. I don't know if the mounting of the lever and cables at the box end are a problem, but if you look at the amount of play on the lever before it starts taking up the cable movement this is certainly not helpful, sadly this wont be aided by better cables. Sure there was some wear on my change after 47k miles, but I think the gear lever linkage was never that clever from new. Good luck with the project.

Jan 7, 2003 - 08:25 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Gear shift/cables
Message: Thanks for the encouragement Rudz/Bryn. For me the S2 gearcables would be around £225 plus shipping costs plus 43% import tax! Difficult to explain exactly what I have in mind in text but assuming I get one set made up for testing purposes I will get photos and details of the changes up on the web. Personally I think that you need to keep some compliance, albeit reduced, in the system for NVH reasons. If it were a race car then, fine, rose joint the ends and bolt the gearshift down solidly. It is clear to me from the write ups on Elan Central that there is more than one problem area with the original cables. Dimitris' solution, for example, is addressing a different failure to the one I have experienced. I aim to address four different problem areas at once. Has anyone got photos of the Isuzuperformance quickshift kit (no longer available) they could mail to me? The write up says shift travel reduced by 50% but shift no heavier than standard. Hmmm...

Jan 7, 2003 - 08:43 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Showercape for Elan
Message: We have also developed a showercape for the Elan. You can see pictures at: http://geocities.com/abmap2002/Fon_Products.htm  We are in the process of negotiating a UK distribution arrangement with a leading Lotus specialist. This should be concluded within the next few days and stock will be in the UK in around ten days. Pricing will be set by the UK distributor but I am confident it will be reasonable. We believe this product is currently unique and the quality is excellent. If you wish to express an interest at this stage please mail me. Supply to the US looks more difficult as the US has a quota system and other obstacles in place in respect of textile imports. These may prove insurmountable but we are continuing to explore the issues. We aim to follow the showercape with full waterproof covers and indoor covers tailored specifically for the Elan at reasonable prices.

Jan 7, 2003 - 13:54 - From: Gary Eye
Title: Elan M100 Steering Pad
Message: The ignition key in my Elan will not come out. I understand I need to remove the shroud covering the steering column to access the key barrel. There are two screws under the shroud which are easy to remove but there also are two screws on each side that are partly covered by the steering pad that runs under the column. I cannot find any screws holding the pad so I'm assuming in snaps in. Can anyone help me with the proper way to remove the steering pad? Thanks.

Jan 7, 2003 - 13:57 - From: Doug
Title: Social Message Board
Message: Ben, the Social Message Board was canned due to lack of use and interest! I figure you right-hookers will use one of the other boards for Donington planning, but you can use this one too as needed.

Jan 7, 2003 - 14:01 - From: keith
Title: crashpad removal
Message: Went through this a few months ago, IIRC Don Ferrario last time. There are studs on the pad that are ~2 inches long and face almost up when installed. You need a deep 10 mm socket and a remote video camera to get to them. The outboard one is hidden behind a relay bracket, and is almost [or in Don's case completely] inaccessible. Look in the archives from a few months ago for more detail

Jan 7, 2003 - 19:44 - From: Andrew Barron
Title: Help w. set up for solo and track
Message: I am planning to run the One-lap-of-America in the Elan. This year they have changed the tire rules and we can choose from the following BFGoodrich, Firestone, Kumho, Pirelli, Bridgestone, Goodyear, Michelin, or Yokohama I have Goodyear Eagle GSDs on but will change before the event - does anyone have an idea s to which is best for track and solo? Also does anyone know of a source of low cost wheels - so I don't screw-up the street ones. thanks arb

Jan 7, 2003 - 21:05 - From: Doug
Title: one lap
Message: Wow, Andrew, I saw a special on that and it looked intense! Nonstop cross country driving with stops and tracks all around! Do you need a co-pilot? Tires I have heard great things about for track and street are Kumho VictoRacer V700s, BFG Comp-TA KDs, and Bridgestone Potenza SO3s. You will be able to mess with the sizes a bit to find a good tire. Don't have any great wheel suggestions though. You may want to get the ElanScan fired up for monitoring and recording of your drives.

Jan 8, 2003 - 05:11 - From: owen
Title: Car for sale
Message: Unfortunately, my lovely Elan (Elmo) is now for sale. Details are on Ebay, if you want to take a look: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18308&item=3104510673

Jan 8, 2003 - 08:08 - From: Dave M.
Title: ignition upgrades
Message: I've done some reading on this topic and it appears there may be some benefit to upgrading when running 15-20 psi (or more, as some may do). Apparently the additional volts will help the system arc in a seriously pressurized chamber. While I'm getting some grasp on what happens in the cylinder, HOW to improve things (what components) is lost on me at this point. Any ideas from someone who has done some research and/or replaced pieces on their vehicle or knows tons more (which is an easy thing) than me on this topic? I have to imagine running 20 psi, there is room for improvement in my ignition system that would make a difference.

Jan 8, 2003 - 12:11 - From: Philbo
Title: Ignition
Message: Hi Dave, can't say I know a lot about this either except to say that a coil that provides more voltage to the sparks *can* help or even be required in a high boost situation as the spark needs more energy to bridge the gap in a dense environment. Whether our Elans need this is another question; I expect I'll be given the answer when I get my car Unichipped & tuned. Any need to do so will probably show up as a misfire or retarded ignition. If I had to guess, given that the Elan is already a turbo engine and the standard ECU was designed to cope with 10 psi or so in an overboost situation, I'd guess that the coil would be adequately powered for another 10 psi.

Jan 9, 2003 - 00:12 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Cylinder pressure
Message: For what it's worth Dave, I believe the peak cylinder pressure in a blown engine isn't that much higher (unless you've got detonation...), it's just the pressure is sustained for longer (greater area under the cylinder pressure curve).

Jan 9, 2003 - 03:55 - From: Ben W
Title: End Cap
Message: Been looking through SJS parts and found A100B1085K DOOR WAIST FINISHER END CAP. I have no idea about what this is, I was hoping it was something to tidy up the door seals, but upon speaking SJS they don't think they were fitted on the S2. Has anyone any idea about this?

Jan 9, 2003 - 18:41 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: ignition upgrades
Message: You WILL need to upgrade your ignition to run 20psi. I experienced misfire under 1.2bar PLUS nitrous and only solved the problem by using the $15 per plug sparks made by TorqueMaster in California. I tried so many different gaps with the std. plugs and never could find a gap that would work both at idle and "under pressure" without a miss at one or the other extreme. The beauty of TorqueMaster is you can't even gap them, just screw 'em in & let them work! Me and my 24/7 heart monitor are going home now. Getting old sucks!

Jan 9, 2003 - 19:09 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Gear cables/Alan Betts
Message: I had the Isuzuperformance quickshift kit (no longer available). The write up did say shift travel reduced by 50% but shift no heavier than standard.Top of Form 5 The 50% was accurate but it was MUCH heavier than std. to move the lever from one gear to the next! It may interest you to know that I made a "Showercape" for my Elan by cutting the original car cover down to those dimensions. It worked great to keep the water from leaking in when my car was parked outside work! Good luck - I would highly recommend your product to anyone!

Jan 9, 2003 - 21:35 - From: rudz
Title: ignition upgrades
Message: i can say for sure that the gap makes a difference. it is a known fact that people who do some racing open up the gaps on their plugs to squeeze out a little more power from the engine. however, with the increase of the gap, it takes a more powerful ignition coil to produce that voltage required to create the spark across the larger air gap & hence the reason why we always see aftermarket ignition coils that are touted to produce higher voltage. in other words, more powerful ignition coils will allow you to still create the spark across a larger gap thereby allowing you to increase your plug gap (within limits, of course!) i also discovered that my previous plugs misfired only under boost & that obviously seems to verify that turbo engines (increased density in the combustion chamber under boost) makes it even more critical to have plugs & coils suited for the task since they operate under more "extreme" conditions. so as compared to a N/A engine with a normal plug gap, not only would you need the voltage to be powerful enough to spark across a denser environment (boost) but in addition, also a larger spark gap. as it was, the old plugs were doing a fine job when not on boost ie a typical situation for a N/A car...cheers, rudz

Jan 10, 2003 - 04:53 - From: Ben W
Title: Showercapes
Message: Price is £59.95 plus VAT. Stocks will be in the UK early next week. Available from Racespeed http://www.race-speed.com/  They have credit card facilities and their telephone number is 07817 447178.

Jan 10, 2003 - 06:03 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Gearcables
Message: To my surprise the supplier has the first set of cables made up already. These incorporate design improvements in four areas. As soon as I pick them up I will put pictures up on the web comparing new with old. Assuming they pass visual inspection I will fit them to the car for a bit of heavy handed testing. The only other part required is a new bracket at the transmission end to suit the new adjusters. I am busy designing it in Autocad at the moment.

Jan 10, 2003 - 07:56 - From: Dave M.
Title: ignition upgrades - components
Message: It appears an upgrade would help, so...the next question is what upgrade(s)? Matt changed plugs, and Rudz mentions a coil. If I did the coil ( http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2989&prmenbr=361 ) would I also need the ignition module (MSD, etc?) to go with it? I'll likely do the plugs, too in either case.

Jan 11, 2003 - 14:19 - From: Mike C
Title: Gearbox oil change
Message: Does anyone out there have any tips on extracting the speedo gear assembly from the gearbox housing. I have loosened the retaining bolt/plate, the speedo gear moves slightly and will rotate a little but it refuses to be pulled out. Is it just a brute force and ignorance method or could it be a temperature issue, the engine is cold.

Jan 11, 2003 - 17:00 - From: Doug
Title: Tranny fun
Message: Mike, the end of the speedo gear just pulls straight up-if you have removed or turned the little retaining plate out of the way then there is no other obstruction. I can tell you that crud does collect in this area as it is a depression; it is worth spraying some cleaner on this area and then hosing it off and drying it with a towel or compressed air. The cable end unit has an o-ring on it so if in place nothing will get inside the tranny, but it's best to remove the sandy grit first. It may be worth rocking the car back and forth slightly while in gear to move the speedo gear mesh a tad--this may help it loosen as well. When replacing it you have to be sure it goes all the way back in and usually it clicks back in as the gears mesh up again. You have to put it fully in place and remove it to check the level, so you may do this a few times--all the more reason to clean it up well first.

Jan 12, 2003 - 10:16 - From: Theo
Title: Gearbox oil change
Message: Mike - do the job as follows. Unscrew the speedo cable, and let it hang one side. Only now do you remove the bolt with the small plate to remove the goodie still sitting in the gearbox. This part just pulls out, it does not screw out. It got an o-ring round it, so it should not be to difficult to pull out. Let me know if you do not come right.

Jan 12, 2003 - 10:17 - From: Theo
Title: Engine mounting bolts
Message: I want to check my engine mounting bolts - could anybody inform me where to find them?

Jan 12, 2003 - 11:31 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Gear cables: progress report
Message: I said I would put pictures on the web as development progresses. The attached link shows the gearshift end of the prototype cables. http://geocities.com/abmap2002/Gear_cables.jpg  The following may not mean much to those who have chosen not to get 'hands on' with their gearshifts. You can see that the plastic parts which retain the outer cables to the gearshift mounting bracket have been replaced with steel and the nylon spherical joint connecting the fore/aft cable to the gearshift has been replaced with steel. The steel spherical joint is a lot better than the standard nylon joint but I am going to find something better still this week. I reckon it will take about three attempts before I have the cables exactly right but they look promising. In view of some of the comments received I am going to try and make the final version of the cables so that either the standard bushes at the end of the cables will fit (swapped over from the old cables) or nylatron replacements to give a more positive feel.

Jan 12, 2003 - 18:44 - From: Farid
Title: Rear Right Wheel Ballbearing Assembly
Message: Lotus Elan 1991. The Ballbearing assembly has been totally damaged. Has anyone experience this problem. Please let me know if this assembly has to be purchased from Lotus dealers or a substitute manufacturer is available.

Jan 12, 2003 - 18:48 - From: Sam
Title: Fuel Guage Problem
Message: Ater having the Fuel Tank replaced by the Dealer, I noticed that the Fuel Gauge stays at the full level, even if the tank is empty. Does anyone experienced this problem. Would I be able to fix this problem personally or do I need to take it back to the Dealer?

Jan 12, 2003 - 23:23 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Rear wheel bearings
Message: Farid, here's what I used to replace mine, although I believe a couple of places are selling the Lotus parts cheap at the moment: - Tony Vaccaro via E-Bay & http://www.rdent.com/pages/specials.html  Rear Wheel Bearings - 4T-LM11710 & 4T-LM11710 (SMALLEST) 4T-L45449V1 & 4T-L45410. These numbers are 'NTN' brand. The seal I could not find a direct replacement for at that time but I was able to re-use the old one, however the numbers on the seal are: - BAF SL X14 52/62 90217 059 8.5/7

Jan 13, 2003 - 07:32 - From: robert collins
Title: rear wheel bearings
Message: I replaced mine just over 12 months ago. (Suspect lack of use by the previous owner caused them to fail). Price for 2 sets of bearings + 2 grease seals £ 30.32 from Christopher Neil. The hardest bit of the job was removing the centre part of the failed bearing as it had galled against the shaft

Jan 13, 2003 - 08:11 - From: Dave M.
Title: used front bumper
Message: Does anyone know the whereabouts of a front bumper assembly (damaged or otherwise) that could be had for cheap? The front mount intercooler project may require some cutting, and I'd rather have a "test subject" to play with rather than my stock front end. I'd like to fabricate a larger center hole, but without some trial and error, may not get the right size to fit 3" thick worth of intercooler.

Jan 13, 2003 - 14:38 - From: Mike C
Title: Gearbox oil change
Message: Doug/Theo thanks for the info, I will give it another go at the weekend.

Jan 13, 2003 - 17:06 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: high boost plugs
Message: Just wondered if anyone running 20psi or more has tried the ZEX plugs http://www.zex.com/store/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ZX&Product_Code=82003-4&Category_Code=HSP  which are supposed to be designed specifically for this task? Only reason I ask is they cost $20 for 4 plugs instead of $15 for EACH Torquemaster plug.

Jan 14, 2003 - 08:09 - From: James F
Title: '91 BRG SE - RIP
Message: The number of Elans on the road is now sadly down by a further one. Collision with a Range Rover on Saturday - fortunately all concerned escaped unhurt - although there were no winners amongst the cars. The Elan was kind enough to take most of the impact for me though the steering wheel is kind of hard on the face and the seat collapsing forwards on you does nothing for your kidneys and ribs. Not a lot left of the front of the car but I guess if there was then there'd not be a lot left of me. And so the dream ends I fear - no more Lotus ownership (probably) at least for the time it takes the finances to recover from the hammering it took to get this car back close to it's original condition. I shall probably make do with something somewhat more mundane (but not too much so!) for a while - suggestions more than welcome btw. Was interesting to read Simon's posting about insurance write-offs then (nice timing there!). I had been thinking about possibly buying the salvage to my car as it has a lot of sought after parts untouched by the accident. There are 2 main sticking points to this though - where to keep the scrap whilst I sell the bits off and then how to get shot of the carcass of bits that no one wants. Any ideas anyone? Anyway, I must just say it has been a pleasure sharing experiences and learning from you all on this board over the last year. I shall probably still pop in from time to time to see what's going on but not as frequently as I have been (for obvious reasons). Happy Elaning, James.

Jan 14, 2003 - 09:08 - From: Ben W
Title: RIP
Message: James, A truly sad tale. Can't imagine the car is worth much if not much of the front is left, don't think it would be worth it. I saw an elan for sale on autotrader for £4,750. You could always buy a cheap one and keep the dream alive????

Jan 14, 2003 - 16:45 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Doug
Message: I just got some of that "manifold dressing" you once spoke about. Do you have any tips such as 'light coat', 'heavy coat'... anything I should know about using this?

Jan 14, 2003 - 18:42 - From: Doug
Title: Griots Garage Manifold Dressing
Message: Matthew, it is great stuff and is still in place over a year after application. It is kinda a combo between paint and make-up. It goes come in a little container and goes on like I would imagine something like eye shadow (notice no personal experience with that) does and I used small hobby <$1 paintbrushes which worked well. Just apply until covered over. Looks great on the turbo and exhaust stack under the shields. Can wipe it off other area if you happen to get some on them.

Jan 14, 2003 - 19:10 - From: Tony V
Title: Roll Over Bar (Interior Roll Bar)
Message: Is anybody interested in an Auto Europe Roll bar? They have an order for one, but need 2 more orders to do a run. Price would be $695. For the guys over the pond, we could build it with a pin and sleeve setup in a few strategic places to allow it to be broken down...for $795 That would make it easy to ship. Prices do not include shipping. Email me off list if you are interested. I have pictures on my site http://www.lotusowners.com if anybody has not seen one. It is in the Repairs/Upgrades Section

Jan 14, 2003 - 19:26 - From: Doug
Title: Roll Bar
Message: Tony, just to comment, I AM interested in a roll bar but am not thrilled with the old style bar Auto europe has. I know theirs is perfectly functional (I have ridden in an Elan with one installed and was impressed with a "feeling of safety" with the top down on a track) but will try to some day get a more cosmetically pleasing, but functional, 340R type bar done up in my Elan. Until then I will just have to stay off the track, which sucks . . .

Jan 14, 2003 - 19:45 - From: Tony V
Title: Roll Bar
Message: Understand fully Doug. As you all may or may not know, I am selling parts for AutoEurope, especially their old inventory. They asked me to put out the word that they need one or two more bars to do the run. Worse comes to worse, I have one of their bars here that I could sell to their customer.

Jan 14, 2003 - 22:21 - From: Don Ferario
Title: window rattles
Message: Some time ago, I posted a message, asking if anyone had any experience fixing the typical Elan window rattles. Several of you said you had the rattle, but no one had attempted a repair.

We opened up the doors on the car with the noises, and the solution is not all that difficult. At the top of the glass, there are four guides. Two are on the inboard side, two on the outboard. These guides are covered with a furry material, which rubs on the glass. The problem is that either the guides wear and don't touch the glass, or the furry material simply falls off.

In our case, one guide needs to be replaced as the fuzzy material is simply gone. On a couple others the material was pushed off to the side, and could be re-glued on. Most simply needed to be adjusted.

There is a weight at the bottom of the glass. That weight was loose on one window. The rattling of that item was actually more than the glass.

Overall, this is a fairly easy job, one that any owner here likely would accomplish. Taking the door panel off is the trickiest part, and that is already documented elsewhere on this web site.

If you have to replace any of your pads, they are available from Lotus. US price is about $20 to $25 each. All the outboard pads are the same part number. Likewise, all the inboard ones are the same number.

Jan 15, 2003 - 07:46 - From: Laurence
Title: Roll over bar
Message: Doug, I did some measuring up and roll over hoops would have to be either very narrow or a long way off-centre from the seat backs if you still want the hood to go up and down. I don't think they would look nice and have personally given up on that idea. I have sketched out an idea for a single bar that I have copied to Peter Bently to look at. Looking at the AutoEu bar Tony mentions I am just a bit worried by the close proximity to the side of your head. My idea (which would need testing out) is for a bar (not as wide and high as the AE bar) that is behind the seats attached to and above the B post cross brace (which is under the trim in front of the hood compartment). It would be close to and roughly follow the inside line of the rear window. Further support could be added from the metal sections inside the speaker boxes and if wanted a rear central support like the AE bar. The objective was to keep it away from your head and not to limit the rear seat reclining angle too much. The sketch/dimensions are on an Excel file I can e.mail if anyone wants to take a look/improve on it! Laurence

Jan 15, 2003 - 08:19 - From: Dave M.
Title: James
Message: Sorry to hear of your accident. Thank goodness everyone is OK! As for keeping the car around, it's probably not worth the time and hassle. If you know the wrecker it goes to, you could always pull pieces from the car there for folks and charge a few bucks for your time and effort. That would likely be more cost-effective than renting some space to store it. We'll miss hearing of your car, but still glad to have you here at the board safe and sound! ;)

Jan 15, 2003 - 08:22 - From: Dave M.
Title: manifold dressing
Message: Did Griots finally get some back in stock? The Calyx dressing that I'm using goes on not very heavy. Just enough to cover everything. I just work it in the metal with a toothbrush. One bugger: it does come off in the rain. I've had my O2 housing washed almost clean from getting caught in the wet stuff...the manifold, too.

Jan 15, 2003 - 10:15 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: manifold dressing
Message: I didn't get it from Griot's but it's the exact same thing. If you need a new source I can look and see where I bought it from when I get home.

Jan 15, 2003 - 12:39 - From: Doug
Title: roll bar
Message: Laurence, most people with the AE bar are using it on the track a lot so they have a helmet on; but yes I can concur that the helmet does hit against the side support--would not be good to hit your naked head against in a traffic mishap! I admire the silver oval cross-section stock bar of the 340R and the double parabola (a la McDonalds logo) configuration. I agree that mere "roll hoops" are more style than full protection, and they are not qualified as a "real" roll bar anyway in the US for track use!

Jan 15, 2003 - 17:57 - From: Scott ("Slim")
Title: Re: Roll Bar
Message: I have the AE roll bar. I installed it about 3 years ago - I bought it used from someone else who got it from someone else. It was a bit tattered but I didn't care. It fit great although it took me the better part of a weekend to install. My solution to not hitting my head on the thing is to put some foam padding around it. It adds (or subtracts depending on how you feel about it) to the look and it certainly helps with the knowledge that hitting your head against bare metal is not a winning proposition. Even with the foam padding, the hood goes up fine and I can still drive with my helmet on just fine. I was a bit put off the the looks initially but I'd rather have a track day car and be safe and the looks are ok. It does fit very well, by the way. Most tracks require a roll bar and I'd certainly recommend getting one anyway for safety reasons - it also has the benefit of stiffening up the car. By the way, I was at a track event where an older Elan did roll over and the owner walked away. I didn't see the car though.

Jan 16, 2003 - 10:57 - From: stephen reid
Title: please excuse the lingo.
Message: cheers for posting the pics doug, this is as dirty as the car has ever been. the run up north is the first time ive taken it for a long drive (500 mile round trip). please excuse the lingo, but f#*k me what a car! if anyone out there has had the pleasure driving their elan in the highlands of scotland they will know what i mean. the twisting roads and infinite amount of different corners are just what the elan was made for. the cold dense air (-8) gave a notable increase in power and big increase in noise, the turbo was singing and the exhaust was burbling and booming on the down shifts. much fun was had and i learned that the window washer jets don't do much at 90+. the road that i took the pictures on was great fun but i had to do a bit of sheep dodging. cheers, stephen.

Jan 16, 2003 - 11:48 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: Manifold dressing
Message: Sounds like I am in the minority here, but I definitely do not like the stuff. I have used it in two instances; the first one it burned off (guess the turbo was too hot for it); and on the second (Elan) it was rinsed off by water (as mentioned earlier). I went through a lot of prep work beforehand, sandblasting the parts down & cleaning with acid. While it looks good initially, cleaning the engine compartment will quickly cause it to rust again. So now I am re-doing everything with VHT's "Flame Proof" paint ( http://www.pjhbrands.com/vht/high_temp.htm ). IMO, this seems to be a better option. Of course, time will tell...so far I have only painted the exhaust elbow with it. I followed the directions for curing it however, and it does seem to be durable. Maybe someone else has used it and can comment? YMMV, but coating this stuff is something I would rather only do once! Joshua Lawrence

Jan 16, 2003 - 16:53 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Joshua L. / Dave
Message: They had a manifold dressing paint they said was good to 1500F and would paint over rust and give the look of natural cast iron. Decisions, decisions. After I get my car back I'll look at how hard it will be to mask off the area and let that decide the issue. Thanks for your input. BTW I ordered a set of ZEX turbo/nitrous plugs for my other turbo car running at 15psi. Will let everyone know if it makes a difference over standard plugs. Dave, I just got off the phone with the shop and your muffler had still not come in. Because the rear-section of my exhaust is removable (2 bolts) I might can run back by and let him weld that bung on the proper place on your muffler when it comes in.

Jan 16, 2003 - 17:22 - From: robert collins
Title: cast iron's natural look
Message: Speaking as someone who works on a chemical plant built entirely out of (1924 vintage) cast iron, I can tell you that it's "natural" look consists of about 3/4" depth of rust flakes. The silver/grey surface of freshly-exposed iron literally turns rusty as you look at it.

Jan 17, 2003 - 10:25 - From: Ed Miller
Title: Club Lotus LA Meeting
Message: Here is a copy of a message fromt the turboesprit Yahoo groups list. I have both an Elan and Esprit, and have attended previous meetings. These folks are a lot of fun, and would like to see more memebers in the ELan ranks. With the Elise coming next year, we will certainly have some Elan owners add the Elise to their collection, so more Lotus owners will be seeking to joing a club. I sincerely hope that they will come and join this club. We have lots of activities planned for the year, and part of the benefit of the club is we have great rapport with Lotus USA, and can help in service issues. Being a member also gives us discounts in parts. PLease consider going to one of our meetings. Thanks....Ed ----------------------------------- Hi All, As You probably know by now, we are having our first quarterly meeting of Lotus L.A. this year. The meeting will be on 26 January, 2003, at the Holiday Inn, West Covina, (2 blocks east of the Barranca Exit, North side of the 10 F'Way), at 10:00 AM. http://meetings.sixcontinentshotels.com/usa/los_angeles/meetings/map_laxwc.html (Don't worry, we'll get you home in time for the Super Bowl). We are an active club, and invite your participation. Lotusing is a lot more fun when you do it with others, of like mind. This is YOUR Club. To make it even better (If that is possible), We would like YOUR IDEAS, for things to do, Drives, events, get togethers, places to go, places to hold meetings, or ANYTHING ELSE, that you might want to suggest, for 2003. Our club Web-site is at: http://www.lotusla.com , check it out. Lots of good links. (Suggestions for the Web-Site would ALSO BE WELCOMED). To that end, Please contact Marc, ( marcforby@hotmail.com - 310-202-6117) or Gordonie, ( gordonie@earthlink.net - 818-841-3189 ). And let us know your ideas, so we can bring them up at the meeting. This Club can only be as GREAT, as you are willing to make it. I would ALSO like to ENCOURAGE all of the Elan, Europa, Elise, and 7 people to join us in West Covina. If you know anyone, with one of these GREAT CARS, please get in touch with them, and invite them out to play with us on the 26th. I, (Along with my NEW, Black and beautiful S4s,), and Gordonie, (With Mellow Yellow, and his NEW 6 piston front breaks), look forward to seeing you all on the 26th. Any questions, write or call. We will do whatever we can to make your Lotus experience, a great one. Marc and Gordonie

Jan 17, 2003 - 12:30 - From: Dan
Title: Window rattles & manifold dressing
Message: Don's observations on the window support pads are right on --- in fact, I believe that losing the "fuzzy" padding on these is the major factor in failure of the window operating mechanism -- the added friction strains the cables/plastic guide parts/motor&drive, which eventually break. RE: manifold dressing. I've never had success with high temp VHT paint (even on freshly sandblasted parts). I HAVE used Eastwood's Stainless Paint on many manifolds with great results -- this stuff works! and stays put if you prepare the manifold properly (sandblast & wipe with lacquer thinner). Rather than brush on, I use a small V-shaped foam roller (normally used to paint internal corners on walls) to avoid brush strokes. See Eastwood.com

Jan 17, 2003 - 15:51 - From: Mathhew Welsh
Title: P. in Oregon
Message: Didn't want to use your real name. When you called me a couple of weeks ago and I referred you to Dave, then you dealt directly with the shop, maybe I should have warned you. When I picked up the front/down pipes 2 nights ago they had 4 of them, and I had to show them on my ticket where I only ordered 3 (I ALWAYS write up my own tickets in CLEAR English at that shop, so there can be no ambiguity). Dwight walked in at that point and said someone had ordered a 4th downpipe. I didn't care/nothing registered at that time, except I thought maybe it belonged to Dave. Well around 11:00 today the shop (Vincent) called me and said you wanted an entire exhaust made up. I said I knew that, that we talked 2 weeks ago. Anyway, I am picking my car up in 2 hours and it is too late to get started on anything new. I'm sorry about that, but there are 4 young people working there, all in their 20's... and although they are gear-heads and really into cars; as business-men they suck. Even with JUST Dave & I talking to them we got different stories out of them. That is why I put all the down-pipes on my ticket and handled it myself. It just would have been a massive screw-up if I had done it any other way. The reason I referred you to them directly is that an entire exhaust runs about a grand. I didn't want to be out that much money and maybe left holding the bag. I'm sorry they messed up your order. They were going to sell that down-pipe (the story 2 nights ago) at a discount to the one other Elan owner in town just to get rid of it. I Don't know where that stands.

Jan 17, 2003 - 16:00 - From: Jay Sweet
Title: service; help!
Message: I am in Santa Barbara, CA. Where can I get service on a Lotus Elan M100 in the vicinity? Thanks for your help. Regards, Jay

Jan 17, 2003 - 17:11 - From: Doug
Title: S.B. Elan service
Message: Jay, I like you now live far from any competent Elan service place. I do not know of any around Santa Barbara, but you may be able to find a "competent mechanic" in your area who could perhaps do the work. Someone who is smart enough to overlook the Lotus exterior and notice it has a completely familiar Japanese engine is who you want. What do you want done? If enough then it may be worth transporting to Orange county where I can recommend Harry at Viking Motorsports in Costa Mesa as a great Elan mechanic AND nice guy. Don't know if the Thousand Oaks pseudo-Lotus dealer even does service, but I have never heard one good comment about them, if you get my drift.

Jan 18, 2003 - 00:06 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: P. in Oregon, Dave Meyers
Message: Dave, your exhaust is entirely finished and sitting at the back of the shop, just waiting on a box big enough to go in. I noticed there is no tip on the muffler, so here's my tip. REALLY look around for a tip before you buy one, or later you'll find one you like better. Believe me, I did. P. in Oregon, here's where you stand. That mysterious 4th down-pipe is now part of your exhaust system. I waited around 2 hours while they finished fitting your system to my car. It is complete but they still need to coat the pipe, that is all. Apparently they (all of them) spent all day working on it once they realized what you really wanted, and knowing I was picking up my car this evening. So, happy endings for all.

Jan 18, 2003 - 16:21 - From: Marie
Title: Window motor swap
Message: Hi all. I had a question to the vet. owners out there. Is it common to strip out the gears in the elans window motor? I took mine apart yesterday after the window stopped working and all of the plastic gears were stripped. Secondly and on an unrelated topic I just finished a custom blow-off valve discharge pipe (pics forthcoming) and 2.5" cat back exhaust for the car. It sounds mean. Next on the list is to design a better intercooler with help from spearco and to build some aesthetic accents to the bodywork i.e. esprit V8 taillight conversion (pics also forthcoming) Happy elaning.

Jan 18, 2003 - 18:14 - From: marie
Title: organizers of nor cal elan club
Message: Something else has come to mind recently, I noticed that there are no postings from the nor cal elan club. I was hoping to rectify that but there has been little response so I'll put this up on the board. I was hoping to get some of the local elans together for a day of fun and go kart racing. A good friend of mine took me and I had a blast. I also noticed that karts handle similarly to our elans so with that in mind any takers? These are also not cheap karts.............nor are they slow. E-mail me if interested and we'll get this party organized.

Jan 18, 2003 - 22:27 - From: rudz
Title: window motor
Message: marie, i had similar experience with the window motor too. when i took it apart, though, all the gears seem to be ok (not stripped) but the black bushing/spacer/washer had been totally crushed to pieces that you might see them as crumbs. i figure that if someone can locate a repair/rebuild kit for this assembly consisting of the bushings, there's lots of money to be saved. we all know how often the window gives us problems ! as it was, i had to replace the entire window regulator assembly (after waiting for more than 6 months for the factory to produce) & felt it was such a waste cos the motor is still working fine. if anybody else wants to get into this project, let me know, i've still got the old window regulator assembly and the motor for a sample to work from. cheers ... rudz

Jan 19, 2003 - 15:34 - From: Dave M.
Title: Thanks to Matt
Message: I'm sure I speak for everyone involved when I say a big thanks to Matt for dropping his car off for such a period of time. FWIW, Vincent is calling me Mon or Tues after he finds a box to ship in to wrap things up. The tip is no big deal, though they were supposed to put something on...oh, well. Anxious to see the finished product!

Jan 19, 2003 - 18:11 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Thanks Dave
Message: Don't feel too bad about your tip as they lost my front exhaust gasket; meaning it leaks and now I have to go buy a new one. Also, the nice stainless bolts/nuts I had were pretty much destroyed by their power tools, so now I have to order new stainless bolts/nuts. Couple that with the fact of trying to collect money for the front pipes I had made and it all means I will never be doing this again. My cardiologist has told me to reduce stress in my life and this has definitely been a strain on me.

Jan 19, 2003 - 21:23 - From: Doug
Title: mechanix
Message: Matthew, the fact that you are appreciated by your Elan peers should help ease your BP! No mechanic will do as good a job as you would have; hence the reason I (we) hate to take the car in if we don't have to. Your pipes look great, and if you need to unload the extra one let me know how much and I may be interested--will come in handy some day (like all the R12 you stockpiled!). Was under my car and noticed my downpipe has taken a hit and has a small dent in it--if it hangs down at all past the front subframe it is vulnerable!

Jan 19, 2003 - 21:35 - From: Doug
Title: best intentions
Message: Well I finally got the Elan up on ramps today to take off the "third bolt" for the top turbo heat shield. The goal is to send off the heat shields to JetHot for beautification! Knew it would be hard but it was harder than I expected. Got the other 2 off with ease. Tip for others: I had a 12-point 10mm socket wrench--you definitely need this rather than a 6 point one. Hard as all hell to reach up and turn it (from under the car with it up on ramps) but only had to beat up my hands about 48 times or so to turn it about 4 turns to loosen it enough to finally be able to take it out with my fingers! Matthew's tip of cutting your wrench in half would have helped to turn it faster at the end, but I needed all the leverage I could get to turn it for about the first 30 times! Not looking forward to re-installing it--any of you who have done this have you left the bolt off? And if so does it rattle at all? Then I went to take off the O2 sensor to remove the heat shield and it was stuck too! It was replaced a bit less than 3 years ago and was already fused in place 15K miles later! (can't imagine how fused the sensors are of those of you who live West of the Rockies in the US or in the UK!!) Put the O2 socket on with liquid wrench at the sensor and turned the breaker bar hard enough to jump the socket over the threads without turning the sensor! So okay, I then put a hose clamp on the base of the O2 socket to keep it pinched shut and proceeded to jump it again--so then put 2 clamps on the base and jumped it again. What the flock!! Planning to drop liquid wrench on it hourly overnight and try again in the morning. . .

Jan 19, 2003 - 23:15 - From: Dave M.
Title: FMIC
Message: As I've done some research into installing a larger front-mount, I'm finding that a larger intercooler added to a stock turbo at an MBC-enhanced 15 psi would apparently give a boost in HP. I'll check into things further with the folks I'm working with, but if there was a chance for a noticeable improvement, I'd consider building a setup to add a cold-air intake (in the stock IC location) and a center-located front mounted intercooler to an otherwise stock car. Just throwing it out there as a possibility...you'll get an idea of what it would look like as my system starts to piece together.

Jan 20, 2003 - 04:06 - From: Owen
Title: Bye bye!!
Message: Alas, my brief spell of Elan ownership has come to an end - Elmo the Elan was sold on Saturday, for exactly what I paid for it, meaning that apart from insurance, tax, a new ECU, an A service, a new suspension top link, full alignment check, new rear number plate surround, an Elise gearknob and a couple of orange clips i've had nearly 6 months of Lotus ownership for free!!! I just wanted to say a big thank you to everyone on this site, who have helped make owning a Lotus a much more enjoyable and affordable experience. The car has been fantastic and is already very sadly missed - the journey to work this morning in our knackered old fiesta was the most depressing journey of my life! Hope to get another Elan in the not to distant future though, look forward to returning to this site soon! Cheers, Owen.

Jan 20, 2003 - 08:18 - From: Geoff
Title: Elan Servicing
Message: Hello all, I am thinking of changing the dealership that does my servicing. Bell and Colvill seem the closest to me. Does anyone have any opinions on the service that they provide? Good or bad. Many thanks, Geoff

Jan 20, 2003 - 09:46 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: seized bolts, Doug
Message: After having the same problem with my O2 sensor as you, Doug (don't give up on the liquid wrench, but I ended up having the hole re-threaded); I have removed the O2 and re-lubed the threads every 3 months. Also, professional mechanics with their power tools will many times put on bolts way over spec. The first thing I do, in the case of the O2 and also with all my exhaust bolts (especially at the top of the pre-cat), is to remove them, properly lube them & reinstall at or slightly below spec (as the lube removes so much friction it causes the bolt to "glide-in" far more than it otherwise would). I repeat this with the precat bolts AT LEAST every six months. This may perhaps seem excessive to some, but if you've ever broken off a bolt head then you will see it as low-cost insurance, and well worth it. By the way Doug, I reinstalled the infamous side bolt. It went back in far easier than it came out. Perhaps it might give you some peace of mind to try installing the bolt without the shield, keeping the threads on the shield-mounting side well lubed. As to selling the pipes, I only had trouble with one individual and it stemmed from a simple misunderstanding of the Elan's exhaust system. I think it is sorted out now, if not I will let you know. Still in all, it is dis-heartening to accede to another's wishes, while doing the only thing you know which makes sense, provide parts (mine) and services (mine) for free, only to go through all this in the end. To say my heart can't take it is unfortunately true in my case.

Jan 20, 2003 - 11:33 - From: stephen reid
Title: box of tricks
Message: quick question. do all m100s share the same gearbox. cheers, stephen.

Jan 20, 2003 - 11:59 - From: Scott
Title: O2 sensor follies
Message: Doug: Last May, I went through the same you are going through. It took 3 days of applying liquid wrench. But, I had one advantage. I was using the O2 socket with an air impact gun. I truly believe the vibration of the impact gun used over the course of 3 days helped get the liquid wrench to the threads. When the sensor finally moved, it was like it was never stuck. And, I agree with Matthew. Putting the top screw back on the heat shield is not too bad. Now, I have small hands and was able to use a ratchet wrench. Looks like a normal closed-end wrench but rachets 5 degrees or so. Much easier than taking the wrench off each turn. (I bought the wrenches specifically for the Elan after fighting several bolts during the timing belt change). -Scott

Jan 20, 2003 - 12:46 - From: Philbo
Title: Heat shield, and B&C
Message: Chaps, the 1-liner in the Lotus Service Notes for removing the turbo that said "Remove turbo heat shield" took me about 3 hours to achieve! Mainly because those bolts must be exposed to a LOT of heat and would have been rusted/fused to their threads. I didn't have the luxury of time to liquid wrench them, and I stripped the head clean off the side one. There was no apparent difference in pressure between the ones that came loose and the one that was stuck, and the ones that came out cleanly took a lot of effort to come out the WHOLE length of the thread, which was a real treat because as you know you only get about 1/8th of a turn of the spanner in those confined spaces!

Geoff, Bell & Colvill do know the Elan and will do a good job, but they do charge a lot of money and have been known to "scam" a few replacements that don't really need doing. A lot of people use Lakeside Enginerring in Addlestone instead, who are staffed by ex-B&C Lotus-trained mechanics and are more enthusiastic about Lotus ownership in general rather than making money from Lotus owners full stop.

Jan 20, 2003 - 13:41 - From: Doug
Title: O2 follies
Message: Did the liquid wrench thing and tried again this morning--no dice! Plan to drive it to heat it all up and then re-try. Will keep the l.w. flowing per recommendation though. The ultimate failure would be to have to cut the wires off the sensor and put a full socket over it, but then I have to get a new sensor, which would be fine if I didn't replace it 15K ago! Will keep ya'll informed.

Jan 20, 2003 - 15:54 - From: Mike C
Title: Gearbox oil change
Message: Doug/Theo, I tried removing the speedo gear assembly again this weekend with the benefit of your advice, but it still won't budge. I think I will leave it till spring now although in this latest maintenance session I did change the alternator and power steering belts, thermostat and coolant, 4 out of 5 can't be bad ! BTW I built the ElanScan interface using the four transistor cct on Andy Whittaker's site and it works fine, hope to post some results when they have finished salting the roads around here.

Jan 20, 2003 - 18:17 - From: Ryan
Title: Insurance
Message: I'm sure this question has been asked umpteen times before BUT... can anyone supply me with decent insurance companies in the Uk that will give me a quote for my Elan - a reasonable quote as opposed to some of the ridiculous figures I've been getting? I am convinced that the bulk of insurers are smoking to much of the halflings weed of late. Thank You.

Jan 20, 2003 - 18:45 - From: Mike
Title: Brake Light
Message: I just discovered the third brake light (in the spoiler) is disconnected. The wire from the spoiler (with the female connector} was wrapped behind the washer bottle and I cannot locate the male counterpart. Does anyone know where the source is? I cannot locate it by feeling behind the washer bottle.

Jan 20, 2003 - 22:01 - From: Steve
Title: What 3rd brake light ?
Message: Errr, as the title says ? Do the US Elans have a 3rd light then ?

Jan 20, 2003 - 22:42 - From: Jeff
Title: 3rd Brake Light
Message: Fed M100 Elans have brake lights underneath rear spoilers (as have all U.S. cars since '86)

Jan 21, 2003 - 04:03 - From: owen
Title: insurance
Message: Ryan - try www.confused.com - they were by far the cheapest when I was looking. Tesco and directline have also been mentioned as being reasonable. Or, try to get a classic policy, if you don't mind the restrictions - look through a classic car mag to get some phone numbers.

Jan 21, 2003 - 06:27 - From: Ben W
Title: Insurance
Message: Agree with Owen, I found my insurance earlier this month on confused.com. Don't discount elephant.co.uk (Admiral) either as they can be competitive. Also AA came out reasonable.

Jan 21, 2003 - 08:26 - From: Dave M.
Title: O2 woes
Message: Doug, keep trying...after a few days and lots of WD40 mine finally came off, too. Worse yet, after the summer, my WBO2 sensor was also stuck in its bung. The threads sheared themselves off taking it out, so if I can't bodge something together come spring it's an expensive replacement! Doh...

Jan 21, 2003 - 08:35 - From: chris brown
Title: insurance
Message: ryan im with footman james 01215616224 on a collectors car insurance (4500 miles a year) and i pay £320 a year fully comp. you can go up to 6500 miles a year also

Jan 21, 2003 - 11:02 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Brake Light and other stuff
Message: I removed my 3rd brake light as the car looks sleeker without it, like the Euro version). 4 philips screws hold it in. Best to do this before the screws get too rusty. Anyone with a PCE made by anyone whose name starts will Bill(!) might be interested to know that NAPA gasket F7192 is a perfect replacement for the bottom of the PCE, and only costs $1.33. It is semi-metallic (not the way you'd think though, but much tougher than the original paper gasket supplied by Isuzuperformance) and has a metal-crush sealing ring at the inside 2.5" diameter. I bought 2 just to have one on hand and installed one last night. The original paper gasket absorbed water which promoted rust at that junction... much stripping/cleaning required. The NAPA gasket is made of a material which will not absorb water. I also tried that cosmetic manifold dressing last night. Very easy to apply. I can see that it will wash right off with water, the way my hands cleaned up. But there is really no alternative to it unless you are willing to disassemble the whole area to paint the parts. You can't mask them off where they stand. Lastly, I installed ZEX "super performance" spark plugs (4 for $21) on my other car last night. They are specifically made for turbocharged/supercharged/nitrous applications. They did eliminate the miss I was getting under high (1bar/15lb) boost. I don't know if they offer them in a size to fit the Elan though. But then, they told me they did not have them for my Capri either, but it is just a turbocharged Miata engine; so their Miata plugs fit my Capri fine.

Jan 21, 2003 - 14:53 - From: Clay Webb
Title: Need for speed......
Message: has anyone out there fitted any of the parts on the Top End site to their S2 or any elan with a cat ? In fact if anyone out there has any info on making the S2 go quicker or removing the cat or fitted 18" rims let me know.

Jan 21, 2003 - 18:13 - From: Ben
Title: Too hot !!!
Message: Hi there, I live in Sydney where my Elan is finding it quite hard to cope with the summer heat, especially when its stationary. It's got to the stage where its getting to the third line of the heat gauge far to often for my liking. Has anyone made any modifications to reduce this problem? Any suggestions re. coolants would be appreciated too. Also, is it possible to get the fan to kick in earlier?

Jan 21, 2003 - 20:21 - From: Scott "Slim"
Title: Re: Too hot !!!
Message: Hi Ben, I have had that problem in the past. I once went over a large hill (4000 feet elevation) in traffic and the car was getting quite hot by the top. I had to pull over. Two things you can do: 1. Get RedLine Water Wetter. You just add it to your existing anti-freeze/water mix. Well, when changing your coolant, that is. 2. Turn on the heat. I hate that too but it does help. The other thing I noticed is that the gauge appears to be not like other cars I've driven. That is, it normally settles around 1/4 or below when driven normally. But, in traffic (just sitting) it goes up to 3/4 quite fast. I wouldn't worry about it until it gets close to or past 7/8. At that point, you've got to worry. Your fan should kick in at around 3/4 but it merely keeps the car at around 3/4, it doesn't seem to go back down.

Jan 22, 2003 - 00:19 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Re. Too hot
Message: I run an Elan SE Turbo in Thailand where temperatures are regularly in the mid thirties Centigrade. The coolant gauge gives a steady reading of a quarter of the way up the gauge in all circumstances provided the cooling system is functioning correctly. But it will only do this if the fans are working properly. As well as checking the fans probably also worth bleeding the cooling system to ensure there is no air in there. It would be pretty easy to wire in a manual fan switch as an addition to the sensor trigger for the fan but I do not think that it would be easy to alter the point at which the fan cuts in if I am right in thinking it is ECU controlled.

Jan 22, 2003 - 00:28 - From: Jeff
Title: Re: Too Hot
Message: Hi Ben, I live in Texas, and the same thing happens to me as well, especially in the Summer. Would not worry too much about it, as long as it starts to drop after fan kicks in, and you start to move in traffic.

Jan 22, 2003 - 01:11 - From: Marissa
Title: k&n air filters
Message: Hi All, I just received a very alarming report on K&N air filters tested on a buddy of mine's ferrari testerossa. He sent an oil sample to a testing firm and they found an irregularly high amount of silica in the oil as well as other particulate matter. The cause was determined to be the air filter (K&N). Ouch! After a little more research Ford has also stopped putting the filters on their cars due to the fact that they leave a residue on the MAF which sets off the check engine light and will not allow the car to idle. The filters were on some of the high end mustangs and at that only for one year after every one of the cars failed due to residue build up. I have also just had an oil test done on my elan with similar results: high silica content in the oil. Be forewarned that K&N flows more because it filters less. Flow + dirt = Power + damage. Just my $0.02

Jan 22, 2003 - 01:19 - From: Marissa
Title: re:too hot
Message: My car was doing the same thing in traffic and even during the smog test( the temp needle went up just a hair below the max) I ended up just wiring the fans always on. The sensor is on the top of the t-stat housing on the engine side. Just unplug the wire and ground it to the engine block. The fans will turn on every time you start the engine. Hope this helps.

Jan 22, 2003 - 01:23 - From: Desmond See
Title: H&R Cup Kit
Message: Hi Guys, Thot I read somewhere in here that someone has a H&R Cup kit fitted to the Lotus Elan ? I'd like to perform a similar stunt. Any comments / advise from anyone who's upgraded the suspension is welcomed too ! The AVO shocks ppl are pretty slow in their response....been a week now.........also not considering the SJ's gaz shocks...... Desperate, Desmond -

Jan 22, 2003 - 08:50 - From: Dave M.
Title: Air filters
Message: Since the K&N may be suspect, is there another cone-type filter that would be recommended. Perfect timing on this as I'm about to order one...thanks, Marissa!

Jan 22, 2003 - 10:06 - From: chris brown
Title: re. to hot
Message: i have wired in a manual switch so i can cool the car down when ever i like and the car still does its own cooling if i forget

Jan 22, 2003 - 10:51 - From: Adam
Title: door trim
Message: A little help please. I would like to know if anyone has the part number for the plastic door trim behind the inside door handle,(ie the piece with the screw you should remove before taking the door panel off!). Am I right in thinking this is a vauxhall part and if so what year and model car did it come off. thanks - Adam. ps I tried looking at the parts manual but the link seems to be down.

Jan 22, 2003 - 11:43 - From: Rob B
Title: K & N filters
Message: Which air filters are the problem, the replacement for the stock filters or the K&N 57i cone filters OR both? Aren’t these two types of filter made out off different types of materials?

Jan 22, 2003 - 12:23 - From: stephen
Title: gear ratios
Message: hello folks, is there a difference between the turbo or n/a or u.s gearboxes, and would there be a performance difference in a uk turbo car if i fitted a box with different gear ratios. i.e if the n/a car has shorter ratios it would sprint better in a turbo car. cheers, stephen.

Jan 22, 2003 - 14:00 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: gear ratios
Message: The gear ratios of the n/a car are shorter than those for the turbo. I have it in a book at home. The ratios for all the turbo cars are the same whether US or UK spec. Yes the fitting of an n/a tranny into a turbo should result in better acceleration but at the price of top speed and also a bit buzzy on the highway. If you would like to know what these ratios actually are let me know and I will look it up in the next day or two.

Jan 22, 2003 - 14:04 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: gear ratios
Message: If you are swapping out the tranny be sure & use the turbo clutch, as the n/a clutch has a smaller friction surface.

Jan 22, 2003 - 16:42 - From: Laurence
Title: Door Trim
Message: Adam, you have described the door escutcheons and when I tried to get a pair they were on 'Back Order' from Lotus. Which I think really means you will never get them (I gave up and cancelled the order after a number of months). Laurence

Jan 22, 2003 - 22:32 - From: Mike
Title: Window Woes
Message: I have resigned myself to the inevitable- my windows are becoming inoperable. Definitely the one weak link to the car (or at least mine). Passenger side glass needs to be held to allow it to go down without binding. Up, no problem. Drivers side-down, no problem but binds going up, also needs a helping hand. The schematic would indicate the plastic bushings are either off the track or become stuck in the channel guide. Before the binding began, the windows would jump forward and back as they went down, but worked ok. Is this something I should refer to a repair shop, or attempt myself? I see postings from time to time on various window issues, but I don't recall a definitive write up on how to inspect and fix the problems. I realize this is not an easy subject to cover, but if someone can help with some advice, thanks in advance.

Jan 23, 2003 - 12:23 - From: keith g
Title: parts etc
Message: Ray at rdent.com has some clearance items on his website. Check them out. LCU had the right side door escutcheon, but not the left, last summer.

Jan 23, 2003 - 13:18 - From: randy
Title: for sale
Message: My second elan is up for sale on ebay. pass the word. thanks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2401086095 

Jan 23, 2003 - 13:46 - From: karl
Title: Donington lotus 2003
Message: Can somebody please tell me if there is a lotus event on at Donington this year, have never been b4 and just wondered if it is on?? thanx

Jan 24, 2003 - 00:17 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: electric water pump
Message: Hi, I was wondering if anyone has replaced the little water pump that cools the turbo after engine shut-off? If so, did you have to get it from Lotus or is there another source available? Just wondering for when it actually warms up here... Josh

Jan 24, 2003 - 04:09 - From: Ben W
Title: Karl - Donington
Message: Karl, Donington is on, sometime in March, don't have the exact date with me here. Never been before myself, but I understand that Rod at www.mardibloke.co.uk normally organises a meet up before heading there. I emailed him and he is still planning on doing it this year, hope to see you there!

Jan 24, 2003 - 04:22 - From: Laurence
Title: Donington
Message: Karl, I suggest you keep an eye out for details on british-cars.co.uk in the Elan section &/or pistonheads.com in the Lotus lounge. Laurence

Jan 24, 2003 - 04:31 - From: PaulN
Title: Timing Belt
Message: Hi Guy, Ive located a whizzing noise coming from the timing belt area, not sure whether its the belt or the runners thats are either worn or just making the sound. The cars 1994 with 38000 miles so its not due for another 3 services. Has any one had any problems like this before, also has anyone changed the belt before, if so is there a step by step guide and what parts are need as well. Thanks for your help PaulN

Jan 24, 2003 - 05:48 - From: rudz
Title: coolant pump
Message: joshua, the little electric coolant pump does not cool the turbo. instead, it pumps the coolant in the system in order to cool down the coolant in the cooling system. this pump is similar to the pump from a 90 Mercedes W124 & may be suitably modified for use in our ELANs. i'm about to try this but i've been putting this off till i have the time. i will let you know how it goes or let me know if you get it done before i do. cheers ... rudz

Jan 24, 2003 - 06:45 - From: Ben W
Title: Timing Belt
Message: PaulN, if you haven't already had a timing belt change you should head directly to the garage. They are supposed to be changed every 6 years (or 60,000miles), though some people recommend every 5 years (or 50,000miles).

Jan 24, 2003 - 07:23 - From: karl
Title: thanx
Message: thanx for telling me, not far away then, what actually happens there then??? (i only live 15mins from don) well there will be 2 more elans there then this year me and a friend, so look out for the white elan with the H 13TUS number plate and friend in a blue elan. cant miss us really probably the only modded elans there, sorry to ppl that say standard is best

Jan 24, 2003 - 10:12 - From: David
Title: Wet footwell
Message: This winter my footwells are soaking wet. The car is left standing so I can't see where the water is coming in from. I know the roof are'nt that tight, but I don't think it is coming in from there, since the doors and seat would be wet. Can anyone suggest anything.

Jan 24, 2003 - 11:19 - From: Laurence
Title: Donnington
Message: Karl, Did you go to Stonleigh and if so was it your elan with the dark S2 wheels, Alcantra interior and various Aluminum panels? If so it was v nice job. Laurence

Jan 24, 2003 - 11:37 - From: Doug
Title: various
Message: PaulN, have a look under the front right of the car (best done with it up on a jack with the right front wheel off) and check the condition of the 2 other belts. It is easy for road silt to get stuck in the grooves of these belts and make them wear out. You could remove the timing belt cover and visually check the timing belt if you really wanted to as well. They are all cheap belts, but the labor to put them in will send you to the pub to drown your sorrows. David, there is a fresh air inlet on the right front under the right front wheel well liner. This has a duct that rots away which can allow water from the road to jump up into your car that way. Unfortunately the way to check this is remove the right front wheel and then the wheel arch liner and you will see it up in there and can repair/replace/duct tape as needed. This may not be the source, but it has been for others in the past in this instance.

Jan 24, 2003 - 11:56 - From: Rob B
Title: Donington
Message: I have been on the BBS and they recon the 8th & 9th of March this year, but no info on a meet before hand at the moment.

Jan 24, 2003 - 12:55 - From: James w
Title: jigsaws...
Message: Anyone interested in online jigsaws (unlikely!) - lotus elise & 2 elans are in 'transport' gallery at jigzone.com. mine is the dark blue one...

Jan 24, 2003 - 15:04 - From: PaulN
Title: Timing belt
Message: Thanks for the info lads, Doug i know your a bit of a pro with the elan, so have you got any instructions for replacing the timing belt? Because while its in the garage having a check up, it might as well have the belt done. (Not Lotus dealership). Thanks PaulN

Jan 24, 2003 - 15:17 - From: Doug
Title: belt change
Message: Paul, that is something I let the dealer do--left a nice ding in my fibreglass from it too. Not that I couldn't do it but rather not take all the time and hundreds of swear words to do it myself. There are a few Elanners lurking who have done it themselves so they could tell you hints for your mechanic. It is otherwise a straight forward job, but with the Elan there is hardly room to do it so it is tedious.

Jan 24, 2003 - 17:15 - From: ian child
Title: skid marks
Message: is it posible to have a m100 with brakes ? mine can only produce skid marks on underware ! im in serios need of a brake upgrade beyond morris minor spec any help and advice wold be great thanks Ian (would later calibra calipers with the bigger pads fit ?)

Jan 24, 2003 - 17:51 - From: Doug
Title: Brakes
Message: Ian, welcome to the club--I remember that skid mark problem myself. There are a few upgrades available in the UK which have been discussed before (AP, HiSpec, and at least one more). The AP is probably close to 1000UKP, while the HiSpec is probably half that! I am in the fitting stages of a new upgrade designed and to be made thru Elan owners. They are a Wilwood 4pot caliper with larger rotor and have been test fit fine to the US 16" stock wheel. They are likely too big for the UK spec 15" wheel (will ask the designer), and I have yet to fit them to my aftermarket +47mm offset 16" wheels (will do this weekend). Our hope is to offer this to all for about US $750 including calipers, rotors, hats, pads, all hardware, and new front SS lines!! There are about 8 US Elan owners who have expressed full interest so far; I plan to finance the first 10 sets if need be, but we may have a US distributor set-up for them who can take them from the get-go or after the first 10 sets. Can tell you they are fantastic in use though--can bald your tires in one sitting if you desired!

Jan 24, 2003 - 17:56 - From: Billy
Title: Interior lights
Message: My interior lights will not switch off. I suspect something is wrong with timer that switches lights on for a certain time after unlocking. Has anyone had similar problem or know where timer/relay is located. Thanks

Jan 24, 2003 - 20:32 - From: rudz
Title: billy's lights & adam's door trim
Message: billy, i presume you do realize that there are switches under the rear view mirror. some new owners have been known to discover these switches had accidentally switched itself permanently ON when cleaning up the interior of their cars. adam, pls do let me know too if you can locate the door escutcheons as i need mine replaced. the last i hear from LOTUS 3 days ago was they don't make it anymore. so i guess we've got to start looking for alternative sources. cheers ... rudz

Jan 24, 2003 - 22:15 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: Re: Interior Lights
Message: Billy, check the headlight switch. It doubles as the "master" interior light switch if it is pulled out, away from the instrument panel. Give it a firm push IN to make certain that it is in the "off" position. I didn't find out about this one until after several months of ownership, and one very frustrating day spent trying to figure out why the lights wouldn't turn off after a friend accidentally pulled the switch to the "on" position! Cheers! Jose M. Armengol

Jan 24, 2003 - 22:26 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: Brakes
Message: Ian, I recently upgraded my M100's brakes with the AP Racing upgrade kit. Dave Meyers had this upgrade done last year and highly recommended it. I still can't thank him enough. The brakes are truly stellar. When combined with a very grippy tire, the results are truly incredible. Yes, the AP setup is rather costly, but in my opinion, well worth the dough. BTW, the supplier is B.G. Developments in the UK. Let me know if you need contact info, as I can locate it, though I don't have it handy at the moment. Cheers, Jose M. Armengol

Jan 25, 2003 - 01:49 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Doug's brake upgrade
Message: Doug's brake upgrade will only fit cars with wheels at least 16" diameter, as the disc's themselves are 12.19" diameter.

Jan 25, 2003 - 09:03 - From: Michael
Title: Time to tweak the Elan
Message: During the summer last year I purchased a '91 M100 with just over 200 (certified) miles on the clock. I just sold one of my three other cars for sale and am in a position to venture towards "stage 1" tuning. It's a lovely car and I've clocked just shy of 6K on it. Question1: Who offers a 2.5" turbo back (track only, of course) stainless exhaust system that I can purchase? I had Stebro custom build one for my S4S, but that took some time on their part, after sending my Borla system to them. Question2: Though this car is relatively "new" it is without Lotus warranty, and as Corky Bell says "We don't need no stinkin warranty." As long as upgrades are well thought out, especially on a factory turbo setup, one should be fine, relative to premature failures. That said, I have a new Garrett VNT (variable nozzle turbo) rated for 1.6 to 2 liter engines. The beauty of this unit is that it builds boost almost immediately as the vanes are hinged, dynamically altering the turbo vane area from nill, to almost fully wide open with no restriction. Has anyone out there done this type of turbo, or a similar VATN (Variable Area Turbine Nozzle) installation in an Elan? Question3: While lurking on this site, I've seen that folks (Jose comes to mind) have invested in AP 4 pot setups for their Elan's. Actually this upgrade will be first for me, as BHP is nice, but stopping is nicer. Does anyone have any experience with AP vs Wilwood vs whatever else may be available for our cars? My intended use for my M100 is fast road work, with the occasional track day, as I use my S4S primarily for the later. BTW: For you high BHP (over 200) M100 owners, what's the torque steer feel like with and/or without LSD? Thank you in advance for any responses Regards, "Elan by day, Esprit by night....life is grand" Michael.

Jan 25, 2003 - 13:04 - From: Billy
Title: Interior lights
Message: Jose, Thanks, I had pulled the headlight switch out when switching the lights off. I've put the bulbs back in now and all is well. Billy

Jan 25, 2003 - 19:28 - From: Dave M.
Title: Michael
Message: Congrats on finding such a "new" Elan! As for your questions, #1: most of us who have wanted a 2.5" exhaust have had ours custom made. No one supplies them any longer. Matt from the site was great enough to let his car be the jig recently for some to be made. My recommendation...if you're lucky enough to live near a shop that does mandrel-bends, take it in and let them have a go. #2, you're the first I know of with the special turbo. I'm jealous! That's a beauty... #3, I also have upgraded to a large front brake setup w/4-pots (the AP set Jose also has). I can't speak to AP v. Wilwood, but I can speak to AP v. stock v. "upgraded stock" (better pads/rotors). There is no comparison with the new brakes. As Ian asks about above, the upgrade will lock at will. Sadly, I've got the flat-spotted autocross rubber to prove it. ;) My $.02, for quick road use and minor track days, any of the 4-piston units will likely be OK. It's the pad/fluid combination that makes or breaks the system. If you find a pad that doesn't wear down too quickly, and a fluid to handle the heat, as long as the caliper assembly handles the heat transfer well (combination of piston size/fluid capacity/housing materials), you should be in good shape. Personally, with the AP Racing calipers I've had great experience on the road with EBC Greenstuffs and great track performance with Hawk Blues (though they are a touch hard on the rotors). I think venting air to the rotors will be a massive help, too (a current winter project). For your BTW question: I've been pleasantly surprised to find that there is very little torque steer, even with almost 230 HP at the wheels. This is with no LSD (yet - another winter project), and competition tires. This car never ceases to amaze me! Best wishes in your upgrades, and please let us know how you come out.

Jan 25, 2003 - 19:32 - From: Dave M.
Title: seats
Message: Has anyone replaced their stock seats? I think I'm out of luck after having installed the Auto Europe rollbar as there is no width to work with in the shoulder area. The bar nearly touches the seat there. I'd have to shove the seat too far forward to make room. I'm in the process of possibly modifying the stockers to be able to run the 4-point harnesses through the backs.

Jan 25, 2003 - 20:16 - From: ian
Title: you dont need brakes they only slow you down
Message: cheers guys £500 for brakes that work and fit my wheels would be great but twice that would beat a big prang ( the other inevitable option ) when we've got brakes we will discus boost creep the other new elan owner subject. i must say that (in my experience )as a fairly average driver that the elan must be the best way of pissing off people who think they have fast cars ( just dont try out braking them )

Jan 26, 2003 - 05:57 - From: Philbo
Title: Turbo & brakes
Message: Ian and Michael, suggest you look at a page I did on Elan upgrades: www.informatica.zen.co.uk/elan/Stages.htm (also available from links on this site). This has a lot of contacts for UK suppliers of brake upgrades and also power upgrades. I can say that at 225bhp there is virtually no torque steer, will be interesting to see how it is at 280bhp! Also 4-pot brake kits transform the car, highly recommended. Michael, those continuously variable turbos are awesome, you have just got to get one fitted to the Elan! Might be quite a job though unless Garrett have retained the same exterior connections as the T3/4 series as then you could use some of the BlackHole Performance parts, otherwise you're into custom fabrication of manifolds and exhaust elbows.

Jan 26, 2003 - 15:20 - From: robert collins
Title: torque steer
Message: Anyone else notice a touch of torque steer while sprinting up steep hills?

Jan 26, 2003 - 23:21 - From: Jeff
Title: Houston Auto Show
Message: Hello, Just got back from volunteering at the Houston Auto Show. The dealer, Star Motor Cars had 2 Aston Martins (Vanquish), an Esprit, and an S2 111 Elise. Interestingly enough, several people were interested in my M100 Elan. Some people thought that by the time the Elise got here, that with all the added weight, that the performance would not be that radically different from the Elan. Many people said they would place deposits on the car but we will see.

Jan 27, 2003 - 01:11 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Back Again
Message: Hi guys, long time no seen... I was away from the Elan story (and many other things) for a month and a half due to personal reasons, but I am back now. It is nice to see you all here...

Jan 27, 2003 - 02:12 - From: Marissa
Title: filters
Message: All K&N air filters are prone to letting in dirt because of their design and filter element. Anything similar will do exactly the same. These filters flow more because they open up larger "pores" to let the air and dirt in. No oil bathe will fix that either; which is what alot of the manufacturers claim the oil bathes do. Just another small observation. I noticed that alot of the aftermarket intake systems that I've seen in the elans leave the filer to breathe the same air that cools the engine. With the bonnet closed the temp in there is between 140- 178 degrees F in my car. Hot air is less dense so how can you get more power from it even if you flow more? Why not just run a large diameter hose off of the front grille to the turbo and get a ramair effect at speed and forego the heat build up woes. Last inquiry. Have any of the elans with these intakes gone to the dyno to see how their car is performing & did they do the test with the bonnet up or down? Was the engine warm or cool? That's the real tell all of how much power you really have under the hood. Just wondering. Cheers.

Jan 27, 2003 - 07:57 - From: Dave M.
Title: air intake
Message: Actually it should be quite easy to get a little bit better flow with stock parts. The stock system has a small intake that resides behind a maybe 2"x2" opening in the back of the US drivers' side headlamp housing. The intake actually sits perpendicular to this opening. It gets fresh air, but how much must be greatly limited. As an idea, you could remove the fender liner (4 bolts, 3 screws), disconnect the flex hose leading from the airbox to the little plastic intake nozzle, and relocate the flex hose opening somewhere in an airstream. Obviously you'd need to be careful of picking up water anywhere (locate it as high as possible), but I've got to imagine flow would improve.

Jan 27, 2003 - 08:10 - From: Gary (UK)
Title: Donington
Message: I too have never been before but have seen the pics on Rods website and definitely will go this year. I have been to all the websites mentioned in the messages, but can't find any details. Please can some-one post a link or full details here ???

Jan 27, 2003 - 08:51 - From: KARL
Title: Donington
Message: its on the 8th - 9th i think matey according to the links and stuff LOL so i will be there

Jan 27, 2003 - 10:30 - From: Ed
Title: Door Escutcheons
Message: If this is the part I think it is (plastic piece behind interior door handle), both of mine are looking the worse for wear as well. Someone over there in the UK might see if Steve Sharpe is up to producing those as well as his other carbon fibre pieces.

Jan 27, 2003 - 11:28 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: Seat Mod
Message: Dave, I've had the same thought regarding modifying the stock seats to pass shoulder harness straps though the seatback, as the seats are just too wide at the shoulders for the belts to sit properly if coming over the top/sides of the seat. I will (at some point this year) take my car to my local trim guy (he's really good & did a great job with the installation of my new hood) to see what they can come up with. I'll let you know what I find. Cheers! Jose

Jan 27, 2003 - 11:35 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: Fan switches/fuses
Message: Sorry to not have been paying attention earlier, but could someone tell me where the fuses/relays/switches that govern the radiator cooling fan reside? I know there is a rather common problem w/the 2 temp system. My cooling fan only cuts in at the 3/4 mark and shuts down just above the 1/2 mark. I suspect it's not working properly and may just be the culprit of my recent track day slight overheating problems. Thanks! Jose

Jan 27, 2003 - 11:35 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Alarm system, Keyless entry
Message: I am having the aftermarket alarm which was fitted to my car in 1991 pulled as it stranded me (starter lockout) for the 2nd time in 6-months. Wait a few hours and it works fine again, but that's not quite good enough! This is not a high crime area and I am just having a keyless entry system installed instead, a function which the alarm system also performs. Does anyone have any WORDS OF WISDOM regarding the wiring of the car, or anything that will be of value to pass along? I would like to have this done this week. Thanks, Matt

Jan 27, 2003 - 11:42 - From: Jason Banan
Title: Door Trims
Message: The door trims are back ordered from Lotus. This does not mean no longer made. Order them and they will arrive in a few weeks or months. If the dealer won't accept the order go to another one that will. Don't order them at all and they will go "no longer available" from Lotus. Then you are collectively stuffed. Simple market economics mean an order of as little as 10 items now could mean 200 on the shelves in the Lotus stores in a months time. Remember door window motors? No longer available said some. The number on the shelves now wouldn't fit in the boots of half a dozen Elans.

Jan 27, 2003 - 15:28 - From: Tony V
Title: Car For Sale
Message: Changing financial position is forcing me to sell either my Elan or my Seven. I just cannot bring myself to sell the Seven..although I may regret the choice in the coming years. Anyone interested can see the details at http://www.lotusowners.com Go to the For Sale page...first on on the left. This would be nice car for someone that just wants a good fast car and does not want to spend a lot of money. Something you could really modify and still get your money out if you ever have to.

Jan 27, 2003 - 16:05 - From: Gary (UK)
Title: Donington
Message: Karl - thanks but where exactly can i find the information ?

Jan 27, 2003 - 16:48 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Garrett VNT, Michael
Message: What controls the position of the blades on this particular turbo? The Aerocharger, the only VNT which I am familiar, uses a simple hydraulic pressure actuator, which has one of 2 settings for reasons of "don't mess with that" liability; as a VNT, while more efficient, is less stout than a waste-gate turbo due to the extra mechanical features within the turbo. I know Chrysler had a VNT for only 1 year, 1990 or 1991, whose blades were controlled by the engine management system. It would keep the blades purposefully closed for .4 seconds or until the gas flow was sufficient, then open the blades taking advantage of the fast exhaust flow. Beyond these points, the biggest advantage I can see to a VNT is that you need NEVER suffer from boost creep as you can simply close, or partially close the blades, the standard method in which a VNT regulates boost.

Jan 27, 2003 - 22:07 - From: Mike
Title: Peter Stevens
Message: I need assistance in determining the M100 designer's other credits. As best I can tell, the list is the Macleran F1, redesign of the Espirit, XJR-15, and as head of design for MG Rover, a variety of MGs, including the MG LMP which ran at Lemans last year. Someone mentioned the XJ220 as well, but I'm not sure on this one.

Jan 28, 2003 - 02:23 - From: Brian MDB
Title: Air Intakes
Message: Marissa, like you I was doubtful of the benefit that an under hood cone filter would offer if it was breathing what I'd imagined to be fairly hot air, but surprisingly the air temp around the filter is generally only 10 degrees or so above ambient even at fairly slow speeds. What I found was that air flows in around the front bumper and towards the rear of the engine compartment where it escapes out the sides of the hood. On the left side (drivers viewpoint) temps are progressively warmer to the rear but not excessive, on the right side however the breeze takes a lot of heat off the exhaust/turbo/engine that gets carried rearwards to heat-up the intake manifold, and this takes a long time to normalise after slow driving has brought temperatures in this area to at least +100F above ambient. I believe there are several things that could improve the situation, such as insulating the exhaust side of the turbo, also the downpipe, and maybe fitting a baffle near the rear of the cam cover, a low thermal conductivity gasket between the intake manifold and cylinder head and ducting outside air directly to the manifold area behind the new baffle.

Jan 28, 2003 - 03:27 - From: Doug
Title: perseverance
Message: Well the war to remove the O2 sensor has ended with victory. Drove around the block to heat it all up a bit, put on the liquid wrench (didn't cause a flash fire), put the 7/8" offset spanner on and tapped a bit both directions and then gave a big tug, and it broke loose. I was so shocked it moved I had to look down to verify it didn't jump off the nut or something like that. Boy are those exhaust manifold threads rusted--well the whole thing is a pile of rust. The whole point of this was to remove the heat shields for JetHot coating, which I have now done along with the front 2 brackets (one holds the dipstick and the other the front engine hanger). I knew it would be difficult from other's reported experiences but the point is it is pretty darn time-consuming getting all that crap off the car. Will add some pictures to my gallery page when all is cleaned, shined, coated, and replaced.

Jan 28, 2003 - 06:05 - From: Steve
Title: Peter Stevens
Message: Mike, I believe he was contracted to do the Subaru Impreza redesign on both the old and current car and i think he also did the WRC cars too. Strange coincidence as i seem to keep buying cars he had a hand in, now just saving for that F1 :-]

Jan 28, 2003 - 07:48 - From: Dave M.
Title: cooling fans
Message: Jose, I believe that is the normal operation of the fans. It seemed a bit odd to me, too the first time it happened. As an aside, I found a downside to RedLine WaterWetter. With temps like -12 yesterday morning, I've noticed the car taking a long time (my Scooby, not the Elan) to get warm! I may install the seat heaters...

Jan 28, 2003 - 07:56 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Wet Footwell
Message: PaulN, As Doug said 24/1 there is a tarred foam joint in the LHS inner wing between the fresh air intake and the input to the air cooling/heating fan housing. Over time the tarry bit goes hard and cracks. In my S1 on the wing top shell by the bonnet (hood) hinges there is a large hole (manufacturers hole) that allows water to flow from the windscreen through the hole and onto the foam joint, into the fan housing and then into the footwell. I've not experienced water being thrown up from the road at the joint so it may be worth taking the wheel liner out and having a look at the foam joint and also blocking up the hole.

Jan 28, 2003 - 13:43 - From: Theo
Title: Turboprotect
Message: Are any of your guys aware of the product Turboprotect? It is basically a device fitted to the car that circulates oil through the turbo after engine switch off. Meaning you don't have to run the car on idle after a drive.

Jan 28, 2003 - 14:04 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Precat porting
Message: Here's something that might push you to buying a PCE: I decided to buy (am still holding onto my original) and attempt to modify the existing Precat (housing) to 2 1/2 inches. I first gutted the Precat so I had a hollow chamber. Next I spent $55 to have 6 iron welding rods reinforce the outer (lower) neck, where it narrows like a coke bottle. Then I had a machine shop look at it. They said they could port it out to 2 1/2 inches and do some inner porting work as well so the exhaust would flow very smoothly. That they did for $65. He had to machine a new inner lip for a gasket (he told me the outer dimensions to order, so I could find & order a gasket). While the gasket was on order I sent the housing off to Jet-Hot & received it back all for $45 including shipping. With the gasket fitted in its seat I traced around the inside hole from the top, and removed the excess gasket material from the inner dimension of the gasket, which would have otherwise been in the exhaust flow. So, I now have a beautiful exhaust piece that will flow great for $165. Here's the downside; although I believe this part will INITIALLY seal, I think the gasket/mating surfaces are too thin, and will fail in time (taking heat, vibration and pressure into account). It is my personal feeling that the largest size you should attempt to port the existing piece out to is 2 1/4 inches. In the end, you would be better off buying a PCE from Bill Sun... Matt

Jan 28, 2003 - 18:10 - From: Jeff
Title: Brakes? What Brakes?
Message: My stock brakes on my '92 SE are terrible! I've 'improved them' slightly by fitting braided hoses, EBC Turbo discs, EBC Greens and replaced the fluid. the systems been bled 5-6 times and i've even replaced the rear calipers (seized). The servo seems to working fine so unless I've mis-read the manual . . . Looked at the links on this site but still can ANYBODY point me in the right direction/recommend an upgrade? Thanks in anticipation . . .

Jan 28, 2003 - 22:55 - From: Mars
Title: Gear Knob
Message: G'Day to all. Does anyone know if a 340R gear knob fits a stock M100 gear shaft? Alternatively, if there a 'Lotus' badged gear knob for the M100? I want to replace the plain aluminum one on the car - don't know if it is stock or if it was changed during the car's past life. Regards....Mars

Jan 29, 2003 - 01:00 - From: Doug
Title: gear knob
Message: Mars, if yours is aluminum it was changed--stock knob would be worn black leather with fading gear pattern pressed into it. Can't comment about 340 knob, but most knobs will fit--decide what you like and it probably will just use grub screws to cinch it down to the metal lever under the gear shift knob. FWIW I used a hack-saw to remove a few cm of my lever when I changed mine and I like the feel/height of it better the new way (had a bit too much viagra from the factory).

Jan 29, 2003 - 04:05 - From: Philbo
Title: Brakes
Message: Jeff, if you are US based then watch this site to see how Doug gets on with his wilwood conversion kit. If you are UK based then go straight to HiSpec - their 4-pot calipers transform the braking, though you will need matched discs and pads as well so your existing investment will be partially wasted. If you have LOTS of money then look out for the AP Racing kit for the Elan. See http://www.informatica.zen.co.uk/elan/HiSpecBrakes.htm for details on the HiSpec upgrade. It's become the standard upgrade for UK Elans, though the company aren't very good at keeping to their time estimates.

Jan 29, 2003 - 04:33 - From: owen
Title: knobs!
Message: Mars, i fitted an Elise gearknob to mine, which I think is the same as the 340 - smalish, chrome, with the shift pattern and LOTUS on the top. It's the right diameter, but the wrong pitch thread. You can re-tap the knob with the correct thread and it will fit. This isn't particularly good practice, but with a bit of threadlock mine was been fine.

Jan 29, 2003 - 05:59 - From: rudz
Title: gearknob & fans
Message: mars, you can try the CLUB LOTUS gearknob if you want. it's a chrome ball with a LOTUS logo on the top surface & secured with a grub screw. shortens the gearstick a little from the original height of the stock. Jose, i live in a country that sees 33-35 degrees Celsius everyday & yes, that is how the fan behaves, cuts in at 3/4 & cuts off at 1/2 mark. in fact, if you look close enough, i think it's written somewhere in the owner's handbook. cheers ...rudz

Jan 29, 2003 - 06:11 - From: Darren
Title: Brakes? What Brakes?
Message: Jeff, what exactly is your problem as I know a few people who have performed this upgrade and advised that it's an improvement over stock (ok you can now out brake 1.1 Metros) but everyone has advised that bleeding the system is the biggest problem/issue and it's not unusual to bleed the system SEVERAL times before you remove all the air and thus get a responsive pedal feel. I'd check out the brake bleeding section before condemning your installation.

Jan 29, 2003 - 07:27 - From: Mike
Title: Championship Records
Message: I cannot nail down the number of Constructor's and Driver's chmpionships in F1. I think it is 7 for Constructors and 6 for Drivers. Can someone confirm this?

Jan 29, 2003 - 08:36 - From: jeremy
Title: hardtop
Message: Just tried NTC again and they say the seals for the hardtop are done but they are working on the waterproof coating for them. The chap I spoke to says they are a month or two from selling the top (£1500 painted and ready to fit). Watch the website he said. mmmmmmm,.....

Jan 29, 2003 - 09:52 - From: keith g
Title: more knobs etc.
Message: Anyone have a suggestion of what to put on a stock leather gear knob to keep it looking ok? My old one is ugly and I just got a new one. Just had the front suspension gone through, one of the ball joints was bent 20 degrees! Feels much better now. Keith

Jan 29, 2003 - 10:56 - From: Micky Finn
Title: Hardtop
Message: >but they are working on the waterproof coating for them >a month or two from selling the top Jeremy, they have used NTC standard excuse #83 and #84. The first is pretty fundamental to any seal so if that is still a problem they will have to go back to the drawing board and start all over again. The second has been the story for the past 3 or 4 years. There can't be more than half a dozen hardtops out there in the real world away from the NTC website. When they launched at Donington they only had two on show, the pics they have online might even be the same ones just resprayed! Despite hanging round at lots of shows and meets over the years I've seen precisely one car fitted with one since and it didn't appear waterproof or maybe the owners just liked keeping bin liners all over their seats to keep it looking like a plastic trimmed MX5. Not sure if there is a market for a hardtop at 1500 pounds either now. Thoughts? Mick

Jan 29, 2003 - 11:55 - From: Dave M.
Title: Jeff's brakes
Message: See my Jan 25 post above for some help with pads/braking system. I'm one who burned my Visa on the AP kit, but that was after waiting 6 months for another Wilwood "supplier" and then another 6 months for Hi Spec to deliver (which they didn't). Others have had much better luck with Hi Spec. I'd also echo Philbo and see how Doug's Wilwood kit turns out. That might even be worth the US shipping if you're overseas. Regardless, the car will still be VERY heavily front-weighted as far as braking. Stiffer front springs and some other trickery will help that...

Jan 29, 2003 - 11:57 - From: Ryan
Title: Servicing
Message: Hi All, again i have a question probably asked a thousand times before - Lucy the Lotus needs servicing, 30K mile, plus could do with cam belt changing as its not yet been done (93 L plate). I've been quoted £482 for the A+C service and £782 to include the cam belt change. Seems an awful lot of money to be parting with. This is of course a Lotus dealership which i assume should be used for servicing? I did check the trees this morning but no money growing on em as yet so any pointers would be welcome, ta.

Jan 29, 2003 - 13:47 - From: stephen
Title: jeff's brakes
Message: how you doing jeff i am running the same brake set-up as you and i didnt think there was much of an improvement at first. but then i found that all the brakes needed was a bit of heat. try brakeing hard on a bit of road you know well and you will find the brakes get better and better. after a couple of corners the car will give all sorts of confidence. the next problem is trying to keep your license. cheers, stephen.

Jan 29, 2003 - 14:58 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Alarm removed / Keyless entry installed
Message: In case anyone else has a faulty alarm they need to remove the modules are located BEHIND your glove-box. My engine bay looks less cluttered with the Alarm's Horn removed. I can now enjoy the shine of Bill's Isuzuperformance chrome lower intercooler pipe for the first time! Nice to finally see that expenditure justified.

Jan 29, 2003 - 16:18 - From: Laurence
Title: Gear knob re-furb
Message: I use a conventional leather seat cleaning liquid (Decosal) on my original leather Elan knob which left it looking clean but pretty rough. I then applied black shoe polish with a brush and then polished it up like new. Laurence

Jan 29, 2003 - 16:46 - From: Jeff
Title: Brakes . . . now gear linkage!
Message: Philbo - thanks for advice; looked at link and have spoken to Geoff at HiSpec. Very helpful guy. Mentioned , as he probably has to many an Elan enthusiast, that the car is surprisingly front heavy for its size and the set up is not anywhere up to the job:- stock brakes are Vauxhall Astra GSI rotors with standard small calipers so in fact are a mis-match (parts bin as usual!). Kit price was quoted at £450+vat (+ £20 if I wanted EBC greens instead of supplied pads) which include brackets,270 rotors, 4-pot calipers in either Black or Gold (more colours to follow - this Friday??). Delivery 1-2 weeks. I'm VERY tempted but I've now only got 1,3 & 5 gear ! - cable and/or clips gone so thats my first job. Hey - don't laugh - its still a very reliable quick set of wheels! Darren - thanks for reply. Yup been told the same - bleed bleed bleed which is what I've done in the correct order - pedal feel did improve and run pads in now for about 2k miles. Before fitting Greens I overhauled calipers (new pistons, seals, pins) but still can't get wheels to lock up; just a fast but gradual slowing up - frightening sometimes! Dave M - hi - yes see above - thanks Stephen - Yup clean license as at this date . . .

Jan 29, 2003 - 16:48 - From: Mars
Title: Gear knobs - thanks
Message: Thanks Doug & Rudz. Which Club Lotus site do I look at for the gear knob? Regards........Mars

Jan 29, 2003 - 16:57 - From: Mars
Title: Gear knobs
Message: Oops - thanks Owen as well.

Jan 29, 2003 - 19:45 - From: Alan Betts
Title: Constructor's titles
Message: Answer to Mike: It says seven F1 constructor's titles on the back of my hat so I presume that is right!

Jan 29, 2003 - 21:23 - From: Mike
Title: Titles
Message: Thanks Allen. I'm putting together a display board for a car show and I didn't want the Ferraristas to challenge it.

Jan 30, 2003 - 04:13 - From: Steve P
Title: Great Book
Message: Just read Flat Out - Flat Broke, Formula 1 The Hard Way by Perry McCarthy. Very funny and interesting insight into F1 10 years ago. McCarthy is reportedly Stig on the UK's Top Gear motoring programme (a disguised race driver who hammers all the cars around a circuit in all conditions!). He doesn't like Lotus Cars but still manages to post great times in them, could be something to do with the fact he had a falling out with Lotus when racing Esprit V8's! Well worth a read :-)

Jan 30, 2003 - 06:02 - From: Dimitris GR
Title: Clutch & LSD
Message: Hi guys, I am about to change the clutch to a 4-wing with coils, due to a premature wear (this burnout was disastrous). I was thinking of changing the differential to an LSD. What are the changes in drivability that will take place with the LSD? Is it worthy? Any side effects or disadvantages?

Jan 30, 2003 - 06:40 - From: Laurence
Title: Pre-Cat
Message: Further to Matthew's posting I was wondering. I have an S2 which I assume has the same standard exhaust system as the Federal spec SE's. Some Exhaust companies over here will supply an after-market system without the main Cat and with no baffles in the silencer. They claim the Pre-cat alone should still get you through the UK Emissions/MOT test. If I wanted to improve the performance but the retain one or the other to avoid problems getting through the MOT test which would make more sense keeping the Pre-Cat or the Cat? My car currently has a quite new standard Cat and at the last MOT it still took a lot of warming up before the required emissions level was reached which makes me think that the main Cat may really be needed to get my car through. I would appreciate your thoughts. Laurence

Jan 30, 2003 - 07:07 - From: Andrew
Title: MOT & CAT / A+C service
Message: My S2 has had the CAT removed and it has passed two MOTs with no comment from the mechanic. What / where is the pre-cat? Morland Jones commented that my car had no CAT fitted. Ryan - I had a B+C done in the summer for about £700 (by Morland Jones), maybe if you are having the cam-belt done you should have a B+C which will be a similar cost?

Jan 30, 2003 - 09:20 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Mercedes C43 AMG
Message: What kind of V8 is in that? I trounced one of those twice this morning. I forgot I can't use nitrous in first gear (engine winds out so fast it beats the shifter), so it took me until 2nd gear to pull ahead the first go-round. At the highway on-ramp I remembered that and utterly blew him away. He came from way behind to pass me at about 110 mph but I had shut it off at 100 and backed off to 85 after he was 10 car lengths or so back.

Jan 30, 2003 - 09:28 - From: PaulN
Title: Servicing
Message: Ryan, The prices you said seem cheaper than the lotus dealership in leicester, but they are still really high compared to specialists. SJ SportsCars quote £226.02 + vat for a A+C service. For around the midlands the best price i have found to replace the cam belt is Paul Mattys £285 + vat. Its a 6 hour job. Although at present im dealing with a local garage/body shop who mainly work on Scoobys & other top end cars, Cam belt should cost £200 approx. PaulN

Jan 30, 2003 - 10:41 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Andrew, PreCat
Message: The PreCat is the exhaust piece just prior to the downpipe. Laurence, you still have the preCat fitted then? That is the "light-off" cat which heats up quickly because of its location close to the hot engine exhaust.

Jan 30, 2003 - 12:41 - From: Jose M. Armengol
Title: Water Wetter
Message: Dave, It's about 77 Deg F (25 Deg C) here in South Florida. Somehow, I don't expect sub freezing temps here anytime soon! I think I'm going to wire up a switch to override the fan thermal switch and possibly look into a more efficient/powerful electric cooling fan. My fan is very noisy (fan blade noise, not motor noise) and seems to be out of balance, as the car vibrates when it is running. Is this typical, or something I should worry about? Cheers! Jose

Jan 30, 2003 - 14:11 - From: Laurence
Title: South Florida
Message: Jose, (Sorry this is not technical Doug) I'll be taking the family to your part of the World over Easter. Miami, Everglades, Marco Island, St. Pete's, Busch Gardens. Orlando (Disney/Universal Etc.) Kennedy Space Centre (no launches on unfortunately). Have you any particular recommendations on the motoring front that I should try to see? Laurence

Jan 30, 2003 - 14:24 - From: Colin Bolsom
Title: Oxygen sensor
Message: Hello all, I need to get a new sensor and am coming to US on 6th march for a month. Can anyone tell me if they are easily available there or if there is an alternate to the Lotus unit. I have just moved to France and finding anything here is not easy. - but the roads are just great compared to the UK. Colin

Jan 30, 2003 - 15:54 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: PreCat/Downpipe
Message: Yo, I just had a great idea! I talked to Jet-Hot and they said they can remove their coating from the lower mating surface of my 2 1/2" modified PreCat. When I get it back from them I will take it, along with a standard precat & downpipe (so he will have a good template) to Dwight, who made all the other mandrel pipes; and have him WELD a 90-degree mandrel bend to the PreCat following the contours of the standard pipe. This will give me a STRONG downpipe and the beginning of a great high-flowing 2 1/2" exhaust! Problem solved!

Jan 30, 2003 - 16:01 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: oxygen sensor
Message: The O2 sensor can be gotten at Discount Auto for $61. It is Tomco part #11039

Jan 30, 2003 - 18:26 - From: Doug
Title: O2 sensor
Message: Matthew, interesting that the Tomco website application file says "11018 without terminals" for 91 Elan, and "11233 with terminals" for 91 Impulse Turbo. Can you verify for 100% that #11039 is the exact part??

Jan 30, 2003 - 18:45 - From: Andy P
Title: O2 sensors
Message: Colin no need to go to the US you can get one in the UK that will fit the Elan for about 28 pounds ($46)

Jan 30, 2003 - 20:08 - From: Doug
Title: coming to America
Message: Colin, any chance you are coming to the San Francisco area--if so I have a large box of Elan parts I will order from SJS you can carry on the plane and get to me faster and save shipping costs?? Will give you a new O2 sensor in return?

Jan 31, 2003 - 04:22 - From: Laurence
Title: Pre-Cat - what to do?
Message: Yes Matthew, the exhaust on my S2 is standard and the car feels slower than my old non-cat SE. I was wondering which creates the most restriction, the pre-cat or the main cat? Which would be best for my first stage of exhaust up-grade: 1) leave the pre-cat (for the emissions test) and stick on a 21/2" exhaust with no Cat and a sports silencer, or 2) Get a pre-Cat eliminator to go with with the standard exhaust and original main Cat plus a new sports silencer? Laurence

Jan 31, 2003 - 04:38 - From: Greg Choules
Title: S2 wheel wanted - UK
Message: HELP!! I hit a rock (or something) on the way home last night and broke a chunk off the front left wheel. Luckily the tyre stayed on and I limped home, but now I need a new wheel (standard 5-spoke 16inch S2 type). Has anyone got a spare? I am in Berkshire, England but could travel a bit to come and get one at the right price. List price from a Lotus dealer is ~£250 including VAT fingers crossed, Greg

Jan 31, 2003 - 06:14 - From: Colin Bolsom
Title: O2 sensor
Message: Hi all, Thanks for the replies on O2 procurement. Doug , I am arriving in UK from France on 5th and flying out on 6th so its a bit short notice. I am going to Vero Beach, FLA., but it was a good offer. Colin

Jan 31, 2003 - 07:58 - From: Dave M.
Title: Greg
Message: You may want to do some checking into having the wheel repaired. There are a number of places that will weld new material into place and refinish it. The results can be unbelievable! The shop would have to see the wheel to know if the structure has been affected, however. In some major cases, the wheel wouldn't be safe to fix. A repair would likely be cheaper than buying a new wheel unless someone had a spare.

Jan 31, 2003 - 09:20 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: O2 sensor, Doug
Message: I saved the Tomco O2 box. I will look this weekend when I go home.

Jan 31, 2003 - 10:10 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Laurence, exhaust question
Message: What I would do is eliminate (gut) the precat, or buy a PCE; and build an exhaust system which allowed me to bolt in a Cat converter (for the MOT test), then have a straight pipe to bolt in place of the cat after the MOT test is over. EITHER converter is a restriction, ESPECIALLY to a turbo car. OF COURSE, I know you will only use the straight-through exhaust for off-road racing, so the advice I have given you is 100% legal. JUST wondering, has a MOT inspector ever visited YOUR garage to see what you were doing to your car? I hope you get my drift.

Jan 31, 2003 - 10:21 - From: Michael
Title: M100 "Sport Exhaust"
Message: Can anyone recognize the source of a sport exhaust that is currently being offered on ebay as Item # 2401622036? It doesn't look like the IsuzuPerformance arrangement as that one entered the muffler in the center (I think). Thanks.

Jan 31, 2003 - 11:34 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Michael
Message: That looks EXACTLY like the 2"-pipe sport muffler that SJ Sportscars sells. I know because I have one up in my attic which I bought 2 months ago as a backup exhaust.

Jan 31, 2003 - 12:15 - From: Doug
Title: exhaust
Message: Laurence, Matthew knows Elan exhaust. I too vote to alter the pre-cat and go 2.5" full system with cat. The pre-cat is very small in catalyst area compared to a main cat--just be sure you get the system hot for the testing. A main cat alone is good enough for an Elan to pass the test in California which is strict by US rules.

Jan 31, 2003 - 13:43 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Tomco O2 sensor
Message: The Tomco O2 sensor box has number 11039 on it but that is Discount Auto Parts number for the sensor. I tried taking the label off so I could see if there was a number underneath the label but it just rips up the box and won't come off smoothly. Shame, because it has the 3-wire terminal on it which hooks directly to the receiving terminal on the Elan, right down to the little slide which attaches the plastic wire-terminal to the body of the car. It is an EXACT match and has worked flawlessly on my car since 6/22/02. I called Discount Auto Parts but he did not have a Tomco part number cross-reference. He said they now carry Bosch O2 sensors as well and he would see if he could cross-reference to a Bosch number. In the meantime all I can say is order part #11039 from Discount Auto Parts ONLY. Definitely DO NOT order the O2 sensor you mentioned without a terminal. How would you know which wire to plug to what? All the while, keep in mind an O2 sensor from Lotus is over $450!!!!

Jan 31, 2003 - 18:42 - From: Michael
Title: Elan Sport Exhaust
Message: Hello all. I have my mitts on one of Bills Exhausts from IsuzuPerformance. If I can get an excellent quality duplicate of this entire exhaust made for under $400 would I have any takers?? I need a headcount by early next week Tuesday or Wednesday. I need at least a dozen interested parties before I can proceed. Regards, Michael.

Jan 31, 2003 - 21:04 - From: Tony V
Title: M100 "Sport Exhaust"
Message: The M100 "Sport Exhaust" that I am selling on EBay is made for Auto Europe. This is the last one that they have, and there are no plans to make any more. I put one my BRG Elan that Randy M. owns, so he can say whether he likes it or not. I did like it. I liked the throateer sound. I cannot comment on who made these for AutoEurope. I do not believe that it had anything to do with SJ..but I might be wrong..I have a reserve of $150 on the exhaust. Current bid is $100.