December 2001 Message Board

Dec 1, 2001 - 09:15 - From: Alan
Title: Help please, mate's M100 stolen
Message: Just heard from a mate that his car was stolen from his drive last night. Lives on outskirts of Bradford[UK]. Car is an SE in norfolk mustard, registration B5 SJW. Please contact police with any info. Thanks.

Dec 1, 2001 - 16:34 - From: Ed
Title: Stuck in 3rd...
Message: I was supposed to be getting Autocross driving lessons today, from one of this year's National champions no less. Well first run out and something gave, it would not shift. After some fiddling of the shifter the car went into third and is now stuck there. The shifter travels front to back easily but won't budge to the left or right. I actually managed to get home with only third gear. I never would have believed the car would go from a dead stop in third. Not sure how much clutch I ate in the process though. Since I'm going to have to start digging in the area of the shifter and cables, I figured I might as well ask before I get started... I remember someone recently saying they had one of Bill's short shift kits they didn't want. Is it still there? Bill if you happen to be putting one together soon, let me know. I'd hate to pass up this opportunity to "justify" a new shifter. I mean if I have to replace the cables anyway... At least that's how I'll explain it to the other half.

Dec 1, 2001 - 19:34 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Ed
Message: I was the one with the shift kit but it sold quickly. I had a shift cable break about 2-3 months ago, and like you, managed to get it into a gear which happened to be 3rd, and made it the 6 miles home. The cables are fairly easy to replace, if that's what the problem is.

Dec 1, 2001 - 19:35 - From: Doug
Title: shifter
Message: Ed, sure sounds as if you busted one of the cable attachment points. Look to the rear of the tranny for where the cable has busted off its mount/holder plate. Check out the shifter cable write-up and look for a place that has replaced them before as it is a bummer of a fix to do.

Dec 1, 2001 - 19:37 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Birmingham, England
Message: I will be flying into London on February 10th, working tues-wed-thurs in Birmingham, and leaving via London the following Saturday. Anything of note going on there during that time?

Dec 2, 2001 - 18:09 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: seatbelts
Message: Found a nifty little device that allows you to adjust the slack (tension) in your seatbelt. I always thought the Elan belt pulled just a little too hard on my shoulder and this device, for only 3 bucks, makes it more comfortable to be in for long periods of time. If anyone wants the details I can flip through some paper and get it.

Dec 3, 2001 - 08:50 - From: steve t
Title: Help with hood
Message: Purchased a new hood last weekend the whole assembly complete with everything, I want to fit it but im a bit scared of how to do it. It looks relatively simple but I want to be able to align it properly. Also I want to put a couple of patches on the inside of the roof to stop it wearing through like the last one, has any body got any suggestions on what adhesive to use to stick some more material to it? any advice would be gratefully received Thanks Steve

Dec 3, 2001 - 11:00 - From: Ed
Title: Shifter
Message: Anyone have any comments about the AutoEurope shifter mod? I'm giving it some thought since I'm about to pull mine out anyway (and Bill's isn't available). Looks like its going to be a complete cable change. Anyone else seen their cable adjustment rings held to the bracket with zip ties? The C washer that holds the for/aft adjuster in place must have gone missing at some point in the past.

Dec 3, 2001 - 11:20 - From: Ed
Title: hoses and valves
Message: There is a hose that comes off the electric water pump and connects to a pipe on the thermostat housing and also to the heater control valve (sits/hangs over the shifter cable bracket). Is this hose and the heater control valve standard to the Isuzu version of the engine or am I going to have to go to Lotus for either of these? The joint between the hose and valve looks like it has had a very slow leek for a long time. Lots of antifreeze corroded goop around it. They won't come apart for anything. Definitely time to replace both pieces.

Dec 3, 2001 - 11:44 - From: Fallon
Title: Elan Servicing
Message: Hi there, Hope you guys don't mind being "used" as a point of reference for a marketing exercise! My father (a life-long enthusiast of all things Lotus and proud owner of four models) is considering starting a servicing business. Now, I understand that there are plenty of dealers and independents around - but what are your opinions of them? Is there a need for a reliable, knowledgeable, reasonably-priced servicing workshop in the south-east? What are the most important aspects to consider when you are deciding whom to entrust your pride and joy to for it's annual service? Likewise, is servicing something that you prefer to undertake yourself? For some, it's seen as a necessary evil, but I know many Lotus owners love taking care of their cars enough to get their own hands dirty! Your thoughts, opinions and ideas would be very welcome! Thanks in advance for your help! Fallon

Dec 3, 2001 - 12:30 - From: Paul Munden
Title: HT Leads and Dis Cap
Message: Due to the fact that my Elan consistently wont start when it's wet I'm trying to get hold of a set of HT leads and distributor cap. I've tried Halfords so far but they don't do them. Can anyone help ? I'm in Portsmouth U.K. BTW. P.S. love the site. Full of loads of very helpful info Cheers, Paul.

Dec 3, 2001 - 15:13 - From: Dave M.
Title: Unichip
Message: Thanks, Philbo. I think this was mentioned before on the board, but I don't know much about it. Is this a replacement chip that is recalibrated for better performance, or is this something that makes the ECU "adjustable". My plans are almost for sure going to require larger injectors. With them, it appears I will need to do some adjusting of fuel delivery at (at least) idle and WOT. From what I've read, the stock ECU can handle the adjustments +/-20% in between. (with 370cc/min, should be OK). However, consulting the injector sizing chart at the Isupage, additional injectors may be a better option. But that's a whole other can of worms...

Dec 3, 2001 - 17:06 - From: Robert Collins
Title: SteveT - Hood replacement
Message: Steve, the best adhesive for the hood is the sort used for repairing wetsuits - high adhesion and very elastic. Where abouts in the country are you? If you're interested, I'd be keen to lend a hand/see how it's done - I've done an MX-5 hood before and it wasn't that difficult really, just time consuming.

Dec 3, 2001 - 17:19 - From: Philbo
Title: New ECU's
Message: Dave M, them Unichip is a "piggy back" style device for your existing ECU. Basically it overrides the fuel delivery and ignition timing aspects of the existing ECU, which is retained for all other functionality. The Unichip (along with most other "good" ECU's) is calibrated for a unique car's configuration, i.e. it should be the last thing you add after any other mods (unless you get it recalibrated afterwards). Optimum fuel and timing points are measured at (usually) 500 rpm intervals across the rev range, using a dyno to calculate loads. It's a much more finely tuned set of inputs than the basic ECU uses, and can be adjusted to suit optimum power, economy or useable power. The Unichip ECU is not the "best" available, but it is cheap by comparison (£480 fitted), works with turbos and is known to be a good match for the 4XE1 engine, apparently. I've not had one fitted so can't say from experience what the real benefits translate into, but if you know you need something more than the stock ECU for bigger injectors, it's right up your street, so I understand.

Dec 4, 2001 - 09:47 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: New ECU's
Message: Dave & Phil, I discussed the Apexi unit (which works on the same principles as the Unichip) with a guru who uses it. He said the unit connects in series AFTER the stock ECU and can adjust any of the stock ECU's individual outputs by +/- 50%. However, the fuel shutoff still would not be solved by the piggyback ECU alone, as an injector output of 0 volts times 50% is still 0!

Dec 4, 2001 - 13:10 - From: Dave M.
Title: piggyback ECUs
Message: Thanks guys for the info. After a quick search I found a few Unichip dealers within a few hours' drive of me (see http://www.dastek.co.za/  for a bunch of info). I'll give them a call to see what they say. I like the Apex-i unit, too as it is adjustable if any future changes are made, rather than reprogramming. Either one is going to require some dyno time to sort out, however. Split Second has a couple nice units, too (ARC1/ARC2) that appear to do the same sort of thing. I'd better decide quick so I can get my request in to Santa...

Dec 4, 2001 - 13:14 - From: Dave M.
Title: on a related note...
Message: Knowing the stock ECU can adjust fuel delivery +/-20% through the rev range helps, but I think that changes at WOT. Does anyone know what happens at WOT? Does the system just max the fuel delivery or is there still some monitoring/adjustment?

Dec 4, 2001 - 14:34 - From: Ade
Title: Battery cable or what looks like battery cable
Message: I was working behind the dash last weekend, replacing some dash light bulbs and found it necessary to remove the radio. whilst fiddling around I noticed a thick red cable the same thickness as the main battery cable just lying loose below the radio opening and close to the heater, not connected, it did not appear to be live. It appeared to run from behind the dash along the tunnel to the rear of the car. Does anyone have any idea what it does, or should do.

Dec 5, 2001 - 13:44 - From: Ed
Title: Short Shifter
Message: I was looking at the write up for changing the shifter cables and saw that there is a scribbled note about an Isuzu Short Shift Kit on it. Does anyone here know what that kit is and whether it is applicable to our Elans?

Dec 5, 2001 - 14:44 - From: Dan
Title: Short Throw Shift kit
Message: Ed - these were available thru Bill Luton dba Isuzuperformance.com now listed as "temporarily unavailable" on Bill's site. We have one in our M100 and IMHO it is a big improvement. Lately there's been some interest on this board.....maybe we can coerce Bill into doing another production run? Bill?

Dec 5, 2001 - 14:59 - From: Ed
Title: Ahh...
Message: Ok, I wasn't sure if that was in reference to Bill's kit or if there was some other "Isuzu" kit that I did not know of. Just got back from ordering new cables and all, had to go to the Isuzu dealer, the local Autozone didn't carry them. A week to ten days for the order to come in... and afternoons are so nice for a top-down ride this time of year. BTW, that heater control valve I mentioned in an earlier post is over $90. Outrageous for a darn vacuum valve.

Dec 5, 2001 - 16:06 - From: Dave M.
Title: computer info
Message: What's the latest on our quest to have Andy Whittaker help us Elan owners out? Doug, do you know anything more? The more I look into fuel controllers and stand alone ECUs the more I'm finding that this info would be invaluable (even though I don't nearly understand it all!). It would be great for everything from slightly modified cars to beasts such as Matt's Nos snorter!

Dec 5, 2001 - 17:15 - From: Doug
Title: Ed
Message: Ed, that heater control valve is cross referenced to the generic and GM part in the CommonParts page!! It is very cheap this way! The cables can be ordered from Isuzu and they usually come 2nd day air from the Isuzu depot warehouse in Texas!

Dec 5, 2001 - 17:19 - From: Doug
Title: Home Tech 1
Message: This is another plea to anyone is England who can help us get Andy's "Freescan" program running on the Elan. With this program you can plug your laptop into your Elan and read all the sensors 'real-time' and even record the sensors during your drive!! Andy even make the computer cable to connect it for a very reasonable price now!! He has volunteered his time to figure out the "Elan protocol" for the program. All you have to do is contact Andy (see link in Links page) and arrange to bring your Elan to him and let him use it for likely a few hours max!! This is an invaluable tool to Elan tuning and even regular maintenance. Please let us know if you can help out! Thank you.

Dec 6, 2001 - 05:21 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Re: Help with hoods
Message: Steve-t, I've used evostick contact adhesive and it works a treat. Cut out the size of patch you want, hold it onto the hood then use tailors chalk around the outside of the patch to mark the size of the patch onto the hood. Apply glue to marked area of the hood and patch and when dry stick together.

Dec 6, 2001 - 05:27 - From: Richard Steele
Title: Hood Patches
Message: The hood wears because the hood mechanism rubs on the material when it is put up and down. Sticking a patch on the inside will extend the hood life but it will also wear in time because now the hood is tighter over the rub point. The ideal solution is a patch on the outside but this won't look good as just a repair patch it needs to be made into a feature such as the patch being embroidered with "Elan" or "Lotus". My question is if I had some embroidered patches made is there a market for them?

Dec 6, 2001 - 08:49 - From: steve t
Title: hood
Message: Richard, thanks for the advice, sounds like a good idea about the patches with 'elan' or 'lotus' on them, I could then make my old hood look pretty again. Then I would be able to sell it as it would be pretty much perfect again. If it looks really good i would do it to the new one too! Cheers for the advice.

Dec 6, 2001 - 10:40 - From: Ed
Title: Doug
Message: The local Isuzu/Chevy dealer is who I ordered the parts from, and TX is almost right next door. So I don't know why they said 7-10 days. I'll check the parts list for the HCV, I suspect he may be ordering the wrong part there despite my attempts to get him to be sure. $90 bucks just seems insane for that little thing.

Dec 6, 2001 - 15:45 - From: Scott
Title: Heater Control Valve
Message: Ed - The valve does not have to be specific to the Elan, it only has to operate in the same fashion (ie open or close under vacuum pressure). $90 is a lot, considering I paid about $25 for my replacement part (see Doug's replacement parts list). If I were you, I would take the part to a local parts store and have them visually find a match. Again, our metal version seems to be discontinued, for the better. Good luck. Scott

Dec 6, 2001 - 22:19 - From: randy
Title: carbon fibre
Message: I have been looking at the pictures of Steve's carbon fibre add-ons. I don't seem to recognise the bonnet protector, and the tail lamp pieces look to deep to fit on my car, plus it shows 4 screws and I only can see two on mine. does anyone know if these things are different from one side of the pond to another, before I order some?

Dec 7, 2001 - 04:58 - From: Guilhaume
Title: Leak or wet carpet
Message: I've just purchase a Lotus Elan (a couple of weeks ago) and I have problem with water getting inside the car, even with a light rain. Does anyone had such problem on an Elan and could help me find information on how to cure those leaks.

Dec 7, 2001 - 15:04 - From: Ed
Title: Heater Control Valve
Message: Just got back from Checker Auto Parts. They had what looks to be the exact same valve (black plastic) that's pictured in the common parts list. It was $12, nowhere near $90.

Dec 7, 2001 - 15:19 - From: charlie
Title: =)
Message: http://www.charliex.net/bentcar/BentCar.html 

Dec 7, 2001 - 15:24 - From: charlie
Title: leaks
Message: usually they come from the window seals at the top, supposedly some elans come with a tube that runs along the top of windshield, this wicks away the water. I've had luck resealing around the top of the windshield posts with RTV, but it usually still leaks, replacement of the seals runs around $1500, windows sometimes drop a little too you can adjust the travel of the electric windows up a little, or easier adjust the seals on the hood, they are adjustable and nearly always travel upwards, given the nature of the car. the other problem is that if you drive through puddles, there are holes under the car that directly lead to the footwells.

Dec 8, 2001 - 15:58 - From: giorgio
Title: info to buy well
Message: I'm going to get a lotus Elan s2 as used here in Italy. I would like to know what kind of check I have to do before buying, I mean the most frequent problem and all you think to be important Thanks GIORGIO

Dec 9, 2001 - 11:24 - From: Brian MDB
Title: All time favourite....
Message: This Australian website is my all time favourite website of all time! Tons of interesting, well wrote(!) articles relevant to the things we discuss here on the MB. It tells you where to stick your cold air intake....great article on how tyres work and why bigger ain't always better, traction control, intercooling, MBC's, practical aerodynamics. Dammit, it's so good you might even consider subscribing to it...that way you can see even more articles AND download the Acrobat files. http://www.autospeed.com 

Dec 10, 2001 - 03:44 - From: Rob Collins
Title: Andy Whittaker's ECU thingy
Message: I have made contact with Andy - he's based a couple of miles from where I work. We'll be getting together in the new year to do whatever it is he does with the ECU - I'll keep you all posted.

Dec 10, 2001 - 05:00 - From: jeremy
Title: not technically minded
Message: You are a ladyboy and your FTO is a shed. How much do you charge for a cut and blow-dry?

Dec 10, 2001 - 12:45 - From: Dave M.
Title: Thank you.
Message: From all Elans this side of the pond: thank you Mr. Collins!

Dec 11, 2001 - 06:40 - From: Guilhaume Bonafe
Title: Hard Top
Message: Does anyone know a hard top supplier for the UK.

Dec 11, 2001 - 08:23 - From: Steve P
Title: Cars and FTO's
Message: Quite liked the FTO I tried but the ride needs sorting out, and unless your on flat tarmac the steering is not the best. Engine is good but suffers from the need for revs before you can really get going so I'll stick with the Elan. On the subject of cars I'm looking for another everyday driver - need something sensible that the family can ride in too ;-) Was wondering about the Volvo S60 2.4T, anyone on this board own one or have ownership experience? If so, maybe you could e-mail me, save clogging up Doug's board. Thanks.

Dec 11, 2001 - 09:58 - From: peter bentley
Title: Cat amongst pigeons/bypass valves
Message: whilst researching dump valves and m.b.c.'s thought I'd speak to turbo technics, they reckon that unless you are running 1.5 bar you are wasting your time and money on dump valves and mbc's. Now I realise that many of you have fitted them so it got me wondering if a comparison test had been run from a modified car against a standard one ? In brief his answer was, on a race engine producing 2 bar etc they are worth having, on a road engine like ours, they are really only a fashion accessory. Don't be offended by this point of view, i just wanted to see if a comparison had been done, your comments please as I'm still on the fence as to what to do. otherwise merry Christmas to one and all.

Dec 11, 2001 - 10:36 - From: Doug
Title: mods
Message: Peter, that guy obviously spends too much time with his head up his arse or he'd not say that. 0-60 time before mods = 6.7 ; 0-60 time after mods = 5.6 . You tell me if that is a difference?!

Dec 11, 2001 - 12:58 - From: Steve P
Title: Turbo Technics
Message: Have to agree with Doug, if you run even 0.2bar extra you'll feel a difference in performance. The Elan is a completely different animal around 0.9bar with an MBC/BBR mod. You don't even need to measure the 0-60 time to prove it, but I have to say my lap times have come down ;-) You also don't have any problems keeping up with Elise 135's! Try that with no increase in boost.....

Dec 11, 2001 - 17:29 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: turbo technics
Message: Regarding the statements by Turbo Technics, that is some of the most uninformed BS I have ever heard, and points to the danger of not experiencing something firsthand. If you haven't experienced something for yourself, you have no basis for knowing if someone is telling you the truth.

Dec 11, 2001 - 18:55 - From: Dean Holt c/o Trim Technology
Title: Lotus Elan Soft Tops
Message: We are the original manufacture of the Lotus Elan Soft Top, although we are not able at present to manufacture a complete frame assy. We can offer a replacement canopy, either supplied pre-boxed, or fitted to the customers car as per the original. Prices are £200.00 + VAT for canopy alone, and £350.00 + VAT fully fitted. Please do not hesitate to contact me direct on 02476 646000, or email me.

Dec 11, 2001 - 19:32 - From: Bill Luton
Title: blow off valves
Message: That is some pretty irresponsible advice about not needing a blow off valve until the boost is cranked up. It is more than rare for a stock car not to at least have one of the ugly little plastic Bosch type valves venting back into the intake as original equipment, and a little disappointing that Lotus did not use one when Isuzu did on the Impulse with the same engine. Ignoring all of the performance type reasoning, a blow off valve is going to greatly lengthen the life of the turbo because the turbo doesn't stall when the throttle plate slaps shut, that pressure is vented and the turbo slows at a more relaxed pace and can then pick up speed without having to accelerate from a standing stop after stalling. Without the valve the turbine is always starting and stopping, and that is the quick way to wear out the bearings. The valve reduces wear and tear a lot._ _ _Bill Luton

Dec 12, 2001 - 01:29 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: mods
Message: Being an Elan newbie, I understand dump valves to some extent, but what are you guys referring to by "M.B.C.?" Also...Doug, am I understanding you to say that the addition of these two shaves over a second off 0-60 times?? Holy cow... If so, what is responsible for this increase in speed? The fact that the valve keeps the turbo spooled up? Thanks, Joshua Lawrence

Dec 12, 2001 - 01:49 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: Answering my own question...
Message: OK, I realize now that MBC must mean Manual Boost Controller...so I revise my question: Doug, what boost level was the 5.6 0-60 time based on? On a separate and somewhat related note...the sending unit for my boost gauge seems to be non-functional. The gauge pegs as soon as I turn on the ignition, bypassing it at the sending unit gives a reading of "0." Does anyone have a suggestion for a fix or replacement? Personally, I would have preferred a mechanical unit... Thanks, Joshua Lawrence

Dec 12, 2001 - 02:29 - From: red_daisy
Title: lotuselan downunder
Message: Is there a lotus elan club downunder?

Dec 12, 2001 - 02:33 - From: red-daisy
Title: advice sought on tyres
Message: I am currently running Michelins on my S2 and need to replace the back 2. What are the best tyres for the car?

Dec 12, 2001 - 04:44 - From: dave
Title: lights, insurance and optimax
Message: ok couple of questions for you experts out there. firstly my reversing lights refuse to work any ideas, have checked obvious fuses/bulbs. secondly relocated up north (manchester) and to my horror direct line have loaded my policy by 50% due to post code change, can anybody recommend a different company? lastly has anyone tried shell optimax heard good things about it from other car drivers. thanks in advance!

Dec 12, 2001 - 04:52 - From: Guillermo
Title: Soft Trim
Message: Its nice to see the manufacturer on this board, speaks a lot of its importance. Now for the non-too-good-English-speaking-foreigners: what is a canopy ?

Dec 12, 2001 - 05:38 - From: Darren
Title: Lotus Clubs - UK
Message: What's the "best" UK Lotus club to join if you're a M100 owner .. ??

Dec 12, 2001 - 10:45 - From: Dave M.
Title: boost, gauges, tires, and (no) snow
Message: Joshua, with an MBC fitted, you can run boost up to the fuel-cut max of .92 bar. That's where you'd get the acceleration numbers Doug did. As for the boost gauge, check and/or clean the ground connection for the sending unit. It sounds like that may be the culprit. Diana, some people mix tires or cars, but I would recommend the same front and back. You may not want different grip, water dispersion, etc. between the front and rear. On a great winter (well, almost winter here) note, we haven't had a bit of snow yet. See my owners' photos to see what my driveway looked like last year near this time!

Dec 12, 2001 - 11:36 - From: jeremy
Title: canopy
Message: I think the canopy means the soft top.

Dec 12, 2001 - 12:50 - From: Guillermo
Title: canopy
Message: Thanks Jeremy ! 200 UKP +VAT seem reasonable for being the original manufacturer. how about some different colours ?! Were there some Elans with white roof ? At least in HUGHES book is a photo ... white dials, white roof, what's next ...

Dec 12, 2001 - 14:51 - From: Bill Luton
Title: reverse lights
Message: It is worth checking the reverse light switch on the top of the transmission, it should be next to the quadrant box and shift linkage. If it is unplugged or broken, the lights will not come on._ _ _Bill Luton

Dec 13, 2001 - 06:00 - From: jeremy
Title: canopy
Message: Sorry Guillermo, after re-reading the post about the canopy, I think they mean only the cloth part of the soft top. best regards

Dec 13, 2001 - 12:14 - From: jeremy
Title: gauges
Message: I have been looking into replacing the oil pressure, volts, boost gauges again and have found some lovely looking ones by Greengauges (ex Smiths). Does anyone know whether these are mechanical or electrical in the Elan? Is there anything else I should bear in mind? Thanks in advance.

Dec 15, 2001 - 06:59 - From: peter bentley
Title: Boost improvements/turbo technics
Message: Thanks for the replies on the boost/valve question, in a way im glad that he is wrong according to the replies received, the mods seemed to make sense to me so i'll be going ahead with them, thanks to all that wrote back. Looking forward to the improved acceleration, peter

Dec 15, 2001 - 07:53 - From: Matt Pritchard
Title: windscreen washer bottle
Message: Hi all... Firstly may I say that this website is the most fantastic godsend for a limited fund Elan fanatic like me. Just had the dreaded Code 41 pop up and thanks to you guys I have more ways of solving it than I know what to do with. The main reason for my post is that I'm looking for some pointers regarding the windscreen washer bottle. The damn seal on the thing has been pretty naff since I've had the car and has been prone to pissing fluid all over the boot (trunk). Anyone a) experienced the problem and found a solution b) know of the original part source (i.e not Lotus) or c) know of any quick fixes in the mean time. Cheers guys... Have a fantastic Xmas and New Year... Matt

Dec 15, 2001 - 20:19 - From: Doug
Title: washer bottle
Message: Matt, welcome to the site! Be sure to add yourself to the Owners List and send me any pictures of your car to post to the site. About the bottle, that is the first time anyone brought that up. I did notice the plastic on that bottle is pretty crappy and yours has probably deteriorated so the seal is duff right? Well, how about getting some regular kitchen plastic wrap and putting a couple of layers directly on top of the bottle, then snap the lid back on and this should create a good seal. You can then trim the plastic edges around the round cap if you have to make it look nicer. Try keeping the level not too full to keep the sloshing from reaching the top. You know I have had mine for more than 5 years and have never even had to refill the wash fluid yet?

Dec 16, 2001 - 00:13 - From: George
Title: Boost Creep...
Message: Hey Guys, haven't been visiting the board too often due to my hectic life. Anyway, did anyone figure out a way to fix the boost creep? I can't full throttle in 5th gear since it overboosts everytime. Still couldn't figure out why it's doing it. Seems that for people that did some mods to their exhaust system, it is a common problem. I didn't get a new exhaust, but I did hollow out the cat on my car. By the way, if you do hollow out the cat, you can still pass the strict CA emission test. Just got my new sticker for year 2002, needed to get the Elan smogged. Passed all tests with flying colors. Take Care, George

Dec 16, 2001 - 00:49 - From: Doug
Title: you creep
Message: George, did you try disconnecting your Boost Solenoid Valve (BSV) as we discussed previously? This works as an electronic boost controller and will bleed of a bit of pressure to the wastegate under full throttle, so in combo with the MBC it can lead to overboost!

Dec 16, 2001 - 11:39 - From: dimitri
Title: no creep
Message: The only way not to get boost creep in fifth gear is to inject more fuel (more power). I put 370 cc injectors and the problem was away. With .9 bar boost you can have 200 –210 hp (with cat).

Dec 16, 2001 - 17:35 - From: charlie
Title: canopy
Message: i think canopy is the soft top + supporting frame.

Dec 16, 2001 - 18:55 - From: Mathhew Welsh
Title: George, boost creep
Message: George, I put in an earlier post (also in the owner's review section) about an electronic piece you can obtain that will totally solve your fuel-shut-off problem. I can get this info easily if you are interested.

Dec 16, 2001 - 19:39 - From: George
Title: Boost Creep
Message: Thanks Doug, Dimitri, and Matthew!!! I'll try to removed the BSV...as you mentioned Doug, and we'll see how that works out. With the fuel thing... Dimitri, what type of injector did you get? Can you give me some details? Presently, I do have a Race Top fuel pressure regulator installed in my car. I don't know any current owners besides me that has the FPR. I believe our old friend Semis had one, but the dude moved on to Italian Ferrari ownership... I am thinking about removing the FPR, since my gas mileage is worse than my V8 Benz ever since I installed it. Even with a turbo, a 1.6 liter engine getting only 15 mpg is just not acceptable. Matthew, I am very interested in the Fuel Cut Defenser. I do have a couple of questions though. Does the defenser just let the boost go and interfere with the ECU so you don't get the stock ECU's fuel cut at maximum boost; or does the defenser actually regulates the boost to a reasonable level so you don't get over boost? Looks like if I do everything, my boost creep problem will go away; or I would hope so... lol Thanks Guys! George

Dec 16, 2001 - 21:04 - From: Rod
Title: Apex / HKS / Unichip
Message: Unichip piggy back sounds a good solution, as if you can get it working with the Elan ECU, you can remap it, with a rolling road session, each time you change the car ( new exhaust etc ). These are popular for other makes of car, and may UK rolling road places have experience with them. Downside is that I cannot find anyone that has added a unichip to an Elan, and also the Unichip would not be able to handle adding larger injectors. The HKS EVC IV ( http://www.hksusa.com/images/?id=1293&rsku=0  )electronic boost controller has been a topic of discussion now and again, and I am sure it would be a vast improvement on an MBC, but at a price. I found a couple of UK HKS dealers willing to have a go at fitting one, but they need rolling road time to set up and so several hours of a specialist time to setup add to the total bill. The Apexi SUPER AVC TYPE-R ( http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_savcr.asp  ) is another electronic boost controller, does much the same job as the HKS product, however is a more recent product, offering a few more features. Its much the same price as the HKS, but apparently more tricky to set up. I did find a UK place that were prepared to have a go at an install, however again mention costs for setup could be expensive. So as you see the HKS and Apexi are just boost controllers, where the Unichip is more about mapping fuel etc. In fact I wonder if the Unichip can look after boost ?

Dec 16, 2001 - 21:05 - From: Rod
Title: Washer bottle seal
Message: The washer bottle seal was something a decent Lotus dealer would change every couple of years at normal services. Its got a Lotus part number and is a matter of a few pence. Perhaps just order one from Lotus.

Dec 16, 2001 - 21:09 - From: Rod
Title: Tech 1 / Freescan
Message: Doug, I have now sorted out a cable and installed the Freescan software. I emailed Andy and he just said connect it up and see if you can capture raw data. This raw data means very little unless you work out which bits of data relate to which sensors. I am sure you could spot RPM / Speed etc pretty easy. He didn't offer any advice on what to do with the raw data, or how to modify Freescan to correctly display data in the correct GUI form though. I am sure if someone could spend half a day with Andy we would get somewhere though. So will leave it to Rob to try and meet up with Andy as he is much closer than I.

Dec 16, 2001 - 21:11 - From: Rod
Title: Bigger Injectors
Message: Dimitri, do you have more details on the injectors you have fitted to your Elan ? Bill, any ideas what will fit ?

Dec 16, 2001 - 21:19 - From: Rod
Title: Trim Technology
Message: Great to see the chap from Trim Technology here, and not wishing to put him off, but thought the original supplier of the 1990's Elan Hood, was Tickford. Is my memory on the blink, or perhaps Tickford has been renamed ?

Dec 17, 2001 - 04:30 - From: dimitri
Title: injectors
Message: Rod Bill knows about the RC injectors (370cc instead 330cc original fitted) The car runs very good and you don't need FPR or FCD (this is the only way not to have boost creep when you have bigger exhaust).

Dec 17, 2001 - 07:55 - From: Rob
Title: New hood from Trim Technology
Message: I've dropped a line to Dean Holt at Trim Technology re the hood. £350+ vat is for the new hood fitted by them to your existing frame, based on you delivering the frame to their factory in Coventry. Also the "fitted" price includes replacement of the main header seal, which as we all know is v.expensive to buy on its own. (£205+vat from a Lotus place near me)

Dec 17, 2001 - 10:38 - From: Guilhaume
Title: Code 31
Message: Has anybody had code 31 and how was it fixed ? Symptoms are: engine cutting out during acceleration sometime see the turbo gauge go from 0.5 to 1.0 suggesting a turbo overboost. With gentle acceleration not using more than 0.3 of the turbo, the engine works fine. Could it be the dump valve sticking? Any ideas how to confirm and repair it?

Dec 17, 2001 - 10:59 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: fuel-cut defenser
Message: George, what the fuel-cut defenser does is not allow the MAP sensor to report more than a 4.5 volt output to the ECU. If you report more than this for a half second or longer the fuel injectors are shut down. In no other way does it regulate or interfere with the car's normal operation. Also, Dimitri, I don't see how larger injectors would stop you from getting boost creep. I can see where they MIGHT richen the fuel mixture though, and in that way be beneficial.

Dec 17, 2001 - 11:00 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: fuel tank
Message: I put in a new fuel tank this past week. I thought it would be simple, but trust me, this is something best left to the dealer (somebody, anybody, besides yourself!). I don't have a fuel leak any longer though! If I could accept some imperfection, I wouldn't put myself through stuff like this!

Dec 17, 2001 - 11:01 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Spark plugs
Message: I had to narrow the gap on my NGK's, and that took care of the high-RPM miss I experienced when on nitrous, but I would sometimes get a slight miss at idle. I bought and installed Torque Master plugs and it has totally solved the problem. I can't say I recommend them for a 'normal' Elan though, even one running increased boost, as they are just not needed until internal cylinder pressures become very high. The part number was *SVFN6GR, and they are $15 per plug, plus your gas mileage will increase! You should order *SVFN7GR, as he went one range colder as I was running nitrous. ( www.torquemaster.com ) By the way, the exhaust wail when on nitrous is unbelievable. But passing more air through anything (a trumpet, whatever) results in different noises being made, so I guess it comes as no surprise. I haven't even gone through my first nitrous fill yet (the tank still has some left). I rarely use it, but it's nice to be able to flick that switch when a "target of opportunity" comes into view. I armed it this weekend when a new Porsche Turbo pulled up along side, but I wasn't willing to incite anything and neither was he. I have to say, that has been the only car I've encountered that I had doubts about.

Dec 17, 2001 - 11:03 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Rod, convertible tops
Message: Tickford did change it's name. I only know this as they were the original supplier of Triumph TR8 tops and I decided to track down the original supplier when I ordered my second top replacement. Can't remember what they're called now, but if it's important I can find out.

Dec 17, 2001 - 13:48 - From: Dave M.
Title: injectors, piggybacks, etc.
Message: Check http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm (thanks, Doug!) for some interesting calculators regarding injectors. From my calculations we should be OK on the stock injectors (322cc/min) up to the .92 cutoff. It wouldn't hurt to clarify this with an A/F meter, though. Once you remove the boost-cut with a fuel-cut defenser however, you aren't adding more fuel, just more boost. That's dangerous and should be monitored. For those who can wait a bit for some sorting out, I will be making some major changes this winter which will include a fuel cut defenser (set to cut at maybe 20 psi or so), at least a larger compressor wheel, new injectors, A/F and EGT gauges, and a piggyback (or maybe replacement) ECU - right now the Apex'i Super AFC appears the best value for what I think I need. I promise a BIG write-up with steps (starting with pictures this coming weekend as I remove the turbo) when I'm done. Also, on injector upgrades, apparently 370 is the largest you can go on the stock computer alone. Above that and a piggyback (HKS, Split Second, Apex'i, etc.) is needed for better control.

Dec 17, 2001 - 14:09 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: Bill, question
Message: Bill, would using 370cc injectors help the air/fuel ratio be richer if one is using a fuel-cut-defenser, at above .92 bar? If so, are there any drawbacks to using the 370cc injectors with the stock ECU?

Dec 17, 2001 - 21:50 - From: Doug
Title: code 31
Message: Guilhaume, you have a CAS failure and should refer to the Cam Angle Sensor write-up on this site in the Maintenance area for all the info you need. Also this has been discussed repeatedly in the Message Board archives.

Dec 18, 2001 - 00:18 - From: Doug
Title: Washer Bottle Seal
Message: Matt P, I was sitting on the John reading the Elan Parts book (better than Playboy) and found your part number by chance: B100M0206F = "Gasket-Washer Bottle Cap (1mm)"

Dec 18, 2001 - 03:07 - From: Guillermo
Title: Doug
Message: Your comment on reading parts book sitting on the John (which is what I suppose) mine is there two, with a classic car and a car magazine ...

Dec 18, 2001 - 03:09 - From: Guillermo
Title: sorry
Message: should be: mine is there >>too<< ... mine English ist nicht zis bad

Dec 18, 2001 - 03:21 - From: steve t
Title: Speakers
Message: Can anyone tell me what sizes are the speakers in the front and the back of the elan. And has anybody got any recommendations of speakers that give really good sound? cheers and merry Christmas!!

Dec 18, 2001 - 05:44 - From: jeremy
Title: speakers
Message: Hi there. I replaced those nasty standard speakers with 3 way sony components in the doors (5'' I think, but not too deep) and 6'' alpines rear for big bass, with separate tweeters mounted on top of the speaker boxes pointing at your ears. This works great but I am regularly tempted to add a small amp for some really pumping vibes. A bit antisocial I know, but then so is my exhaust. The hard (time consuming) part is getting the doors apart. The back couldn't be easier.

Dec 18, 2001 - 09:58 - From: Steve Crook
Title: Elan purchase
Message: I presently own three Elans (all the early ones) but am looking at a 1991 Elan. The Chassis number is SCC1002N1LHD16211 and engine number 854287 How do I decipher the numbers to check that the car is as claimed. The original colour was red and I was told that this had faded and hence the respray, there are no obvious signs of repairs etc. The claimed mileage is 51,000 but my feeling is that the car has done more and there is a gap in the service history. Is there any way of determining the mileage apart from the odometer. The pedals have been fitted with drilled covers so no info here but the steering wheel is very smooth/polished, is this normal at the claimed mileage. TIA Steve

Dec 18, 2001 - 11:15 - From: jeremy
Title: genuine?
Message: All I feel qualified to say is that my elan has 31k miles on it and the steering wheel is smooth as the proverbial baby bum. The red cars are known to 'pink' in the sun so the respray could well be for the best reasons. The rear discs are 100 ukp per disc so are not replaced until necessary. Mine have a slight ridge in them by now by the edge of the pad. Have a look and see how worn these look then try to find out whether they are original. Don't MOT certificates have the mileage on them? Ask for old ones and check for regular mileage increases. Some private owners keep MOTs,... I do.

Dec 18, 2001 - 12:10 - From: Doug
Title: Elan check
Message: Steve, the best thing I can suggest is perhaps finding a knowledgeable Elan owner in your area to look the car over with you. There certainly are some common things to look out for, surf this site for more info. All Elans have a bit different personality so it helps to drive and test a few to see what I mean.

Dec 18, 2001 - 12:30 - From: Dave M.
Title: Elan check
Message: Steve, I would also get the VIN and go to www.carfax.com (or does anyone here have an account?). The reports don't usually tell too much, but may give you a little more insight into the history, number of owners, etc. It also may give you a little help on the mileage issue if any of the entries show maintenance logs.

Dec 19, 2001 - 05:50 - From: Vanessa Hook
Title: Hi Elan number plate for SALE
Message: My elan has the registration number H19 LAN (reads Hi elan). IT IS FOR SALE. I have put it up for auction at the EBAY.co.uk site. Please go and have a look and bid only if you are seriously interested....

Dec 19, 2001 - 07:42 - From: Thomas
Title: Lotus Dealers in the UK
Message: Found a nice page in the internet of all Lotus Dealers in the UK with all the telephone numbers. Some also have links to their internet pages. I am searching for a quality rating for this dealers, does anybody know about one. Merry Christmas to all!

Dec 19, 2001 - 09:05 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: America gets screwed!
Message: First, we only got the Elan in 1991. Second, I'm looking at the current featured owner's car and I notice the nice transparent plastic piece that covers the license plate at the rear of the car and is flush with the other tail-lamps. He says this was a standard fitment on all 1990 Elans. The piece is not even listed in my parts book, just that crappy black plastic piece that is sunken-in and not flush with the taillights at all. Of course, I keep my parts book on the book-shelf and not by the John, so I'm not a real enthusiast anyway; but, has anyone tried to fit the piece I am talking about to their US Elan? If so, how did you obtain it?

Dec 19, 2001 - 14:38 - From: Thomas
Title: Lotus Dealers in the UK
Message: Uuups, forgot the internet address: http://www.findit.co.uk/cars/lotus/dealers.htm 

Dec 19, 2001 - 18:38 - From: Ed
Title: stutters
Message: I seem to be having a stuttering problem. It only shows up under moderate acceleration in the 2-3.5K rpm range. If your gentle on the gas or if you romp on it from 1st on thru then it seems to be just fine. Of course it seems worst when giving a bit of gas in 3rd or 4th from about 2K rpms. You know, driving in city traffic... I've already checked the wires/connections for several of the sensors. Now I'm starting to wonder if one might be bad. I'm reasonably sure its not plugs or plug wires as they are not that old. If anyone has seen any similar behaviour let me know what the fix was. Thanks.

Dec 19, 2001 - 18:59 - From: Ed
Title: Shifter cables
Message: After waiting over a week for my cables to come in from the Isuzu dealer and not hearing anything, I got impatient. The failure was where the fore/aft cable clamps into the shifter mount. So I finished the job of breaking the plastic mounting pieces off the cable and was left with the hard plastic stud that the pieces I had broke off wrapped around to hold the cable in place. I took a few measurements and headed to the hardware store. It took about $4 worth of PVC parts to put together a new clamp for the cable. So my old cables are back in the car and working fine. Now, having seen the shifter, I'm giving serious thought to doing my own short throw conversion. The only "hard" part would be getting the stem and ball milled. The rest could be done by just about any shop student... Now if I only had access to the toys to actually do the work myself.

Dec 19, 2001 - 23:00 - From: Doug
Title: Need to vent/Oil change fun
Message: Well I need to vent off my disgust as usual at the oil filter access! I wrestled with it for a half hour or more this time; if I find out who the jerk was who put it on so tight last time I'm going to kick his ass! Usually it is not this hard. I changed the oil in my wife's Subaru last night--did the ENTIRE job, including cleaning up and pouring the oil into the recycling container, all in 25 minutes! You just reach under the front bumper to get to the drain plug and filter and you can even drain the oil from the plug and filter into the same pan because they are so well placed! Interesting that Subaru and Isuzu are both subsidiaries of Fuji Heavy. Freakin Elan filter @$%#*& . . . . . . . .

Dec 19, 2001 - 23:11 - From: Doug
Title: Oil Drain Plug
Message: Well I want to let you all in on my newest little Elan toy. I have had it for a while and forgot to put it on last time I changed the oil. It is a magnetic oil drain plug. My wife's Subaru has built-in magnetic plugs in the tranny and differential (how smart!). I guess in theory the oil filter should be able to pick up the particles--but I bet I can report about the film on the magnet next time I change the Elan oil!! I got it in Pep Boys (auto store) for a few bucks. It is "Oil-tite" brand, part #65216, "M14-1.50 Oil Drain Plug." It uses a 14mm wrench instead of the original 22mm (which isn't a standard size in most wrench sets anyway!). Now I can stock up on the M14 washers to go with it as well! Better than reusing the Lotus ones as I can never seem to find one to fit the original real good. It is a bit longer than the OE plug, due to the magnet bonded on the tip. I was worried to be sure it did not hit the oil pick-up, but the oil pressure is just the same as it was before. Perhaps if you cannot find one and really want one I can send one to you at cost. Cheers

Dec 20, 2001 - 10:25 - From: Mike
Title: Starter Motor
Message: I think the starter is on it's way out. Every now and then it doesn't engage, just get the click of the solenoid. Has anyone removed the motor? tips on accessing it? Not enquired from Lotus the price of a replacement, though I'd be interested if anyone has the Isuzu part number for cross reference.

Dec 21, 2001 - 06:14 - From: Ian
Title: Click on starting
Message: Mike, sounds like it could be a power problem rather than the starter. I had a problem with the battery terminals being badly corroded that meant that turning the key would initially get ignition lights, then when I tried to start the engine, everything would die, no lights, no ignition, nothing. Unfortunately, this had the dual problem of setting off the alarm as it though it was being tampered with.. and with no power I couldn't stop it... my neighbours had little sympathy for my plight unfortunately. You might want to check the battery terminals (battery located behind the seats in the roof stowage area as you probably already know). Apparently it is also possible that there might be a bad connection behind the centre console in the dashboard where there are a number of power cables meeting at a post. These terminals are protected by red rubber/plastic covers and sometimes these terminals can also get quite badly corroded, but they are a pain to get to.

Dec 21, 2001 - 15:12 - From: Steve P
Title: This & That
Message: 1. Oil Filter, Doug treat yourself (as it's Christmas) to the Lotus SST oil filter remover. Job will only take you 30 minutes.......if you're lucky. 2. Magnetic drain plugs. Had one of these on my 1978 Austin Mini. Great idea, but worrying when you remove it and it looks like a Christmas tree! ;-) 3. Headlight bulb. Changed one of these a couple of weeks ago... boy, whoever designed that part of the car should be arrested, best book a weeks holiday!! 4. EMU temperature sensor. My car's performance has always gone off the boil slightly after it fully warms up, I also found more recently that I couldn't get the CO% within spec. Changing the sensor seems to have done the trick :-) Wishing you all a very happy XMAS. Steve.

Dec 22, 2001 - 00:21 - From: Dave M.
Title: easy and not-so-easy
Message: I'm with Doug on the Scooby filter. All cars should be this easy. Thanks for the tip on the magnetic drain plug, too - I'll go find one tomorrow. Now, the not-so-easy: has anyone removed large parts of the dash before? I've been in the pod in front of the steering wheel to access gauges, but I'm looking at getting behind the main panel where the switches, radio, etc. are located. Any tips? I should probably check the exploded view in the manuals Charlie scanned... Also, any tips on getting to the ECU? It's A/F, EGT, (new) boost, and (new) battery gauge time and the ex-car stereo competitor in me is thinking custom "stealth" install. However to afford these items, I can't be breaking ANYTHING taking things apart...

Dec 22, 2001 - 17:20 - From: Tony V
Title: Oil Filter Removal
Message: Oil filter removal is easily handled by making a poor man's wrench. A poor mans wrench is a piece of rubber fuel line hose..about 5 foot..3/8 works best. You wrap the hose around the filter 2 times...then let the ends of the hose hang down under the chassis..past the chassis so you can grab the ends. pull on the ends to tighten or loosen the filter. I used to change my oil and filter in 10 min.

Dec 23, 2001 - 03:30 - From: Doug
Title: Moving Website Host
Message: Just a note to let you all know I am moving the website host server. This will not affect the site in any way, but there may be very short temporary downtime on the site or my website email. I doubt this will happen but just want to post the info in case it does. If you notice anything wrong on the site or any missing pictures, etc do let me know! I am moving to a BIGGER space so keep the pictures, articles, and suggestions coming in!! Cheers.

Dec 23, 2001 - 03:34 - From: Doug
Title: oil filter removal
Message: Thanks, Tony, I will try your ingenious approach next time! I do have a "filter wrench" cap but it was slipping off cause the filter was so tight. I almost pounded a screwdriver right into the filter to lever it off, but then realized I did not have enough room to even do that!!

Dec 23, 2001 - 17:11 - From: Matt Welsh
Title: Oil filter wrench caps
Message: Doug, the oil filter wrench cap should never slip off, no matter how tight the oil filter is. I've found that manufacturers of different caps make them different sizes (even when they claim to be the same). Take your oil filter with you to the store and actually fit it in the cap before you buy it. I buy Penske oil filters and got the cap I use at a Kmart. Different oil filters for the Elan have a different circumference, so if you switch oil filter brands your cap may no longer fit snuggly!

Dec 23, 2001 - 21:30 - From: George
Title: Happy Holidays
Message: MERRY CHRISTMAS, EVERYONE!!!  George  :-)

Dec 25, 2001 - 16:01 - From: Richard Steele
Title: New Email Address
Message: The wife's watching Eastenders part 2 so I thought I'd let you know that I'm now "between jobs" having been made redundant on the 21/12/01 after 30 years with the same firm. Not quite the Christmas I was expecting but the future looks hopeful. My new email is rcsteele99@hotmail.com . Happy Christmas everyone. Richard M100 Register U.K

Dec 26, 2001 - 15:41 - From: Richard A Clifton
Title: Bad Luck
Message: Bad luck Richard. Whatever you do, make sure the Elan is at the mother-in-law's when the bailiffs come!

Dec 26, 2001 - 22:51 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: various
Message: I finally have dyno time scheduled for the first week in January, so I'll be able to report some HP numbers. I installed some Magnecor plug wires today that I got for xmas. Man they clamp down on the spark plug. You really have to push them on, and then, they just will not come off. Good thing I have 100,000 mile plugs & the wires have a lifetime warranty! The car does run a little smoother. In taking off the coolant overflow bottle (to get to the ignition coil pack) I decided to clean the metal bracket that holds it in place. Be forewarned, it is painted with the minimum amount of paint that allows one to claim that something is painted. It just wiped right off. I removed it from the car and polished it up, then clearcoated it. It shines almost as brightly as Bill's chromed intake piece! Also, here's a site worth checking out. I got their catalog & they have some great stuff: www.properautocare.com 

Dec 27, 2001 - 14:16 - From: Tony V
Title: oil drain plug...magnetic
Message: While I was at the Racing Industry show in Indy....I saw a company that had really STRONG magnetic drain plugs...If somebody wants to send me an old plug..I will send it to them..see if they have the size and make a group buy for the club. I would do it at cost to introduce my new webiste that I am putting up to sell driving clothes..(not for the racer..but for the DRIVER)

Dec 27, 2001 - 15:13 - From: Tony V
Title: poor mans wrench..oil filter removal
Message: Just to be clear...I did not invent the poor man's wrench...Two years ago, somebody on this board reminded me of it. My grandfather told me about it when I was young, but it took somebody on this list to make me think of it again. Works like a charm. It is amazing the amount of torque and gripping power you can get with just that piece of 3/8 hose.

Dec 29, 2001 - 13:26 - From: Roger Tilley
Title: Several Queries
Message: To all you helpful folks out there. Bought a ‘91M100 as a stop gap as the nut and bolt rebuild of my old S4 Elan was clearly not going to be finished for the spring/summer of 2001. I still have the M100 as I doubt the old Elan will be ready for good weather in 2002! Done several jobs on the M100 and the web site is very useful. What I find is odd is that with the old Elans everybody strives for originality down to the last detail but this message board is full of modifications! Anyway the car is in fine fettle now the front discs and pads have been replaced. I have a few questions for all you experts 1) Rear brake parts pistons, seal/recon kits calipers are getting difficult to get hold of and are very expensive in the UK. Are they easily obtainable and reasonably priced in the US. Classicar Automotive are thinking of trying to adapt something else other than the original Pontiac bits to fit. 2) Rattles!! Derbyshire roads are perhaps not good but the Elan is the worst car for annoying rattles I have ever owned. I have started trying to track the worst down but does anyone have a top ten list of the worst and the cures?? 3) Condensation in the gauges. I have tried the hole drilling in the voltmeter only and it is not a complete cure. Does it eventually ruin the gauges. Does nobody wrap up warm and go out with the top down in winter? 4) Bulb failure in the smaller gauges (perhaps its connected with the above!) I always seem to be replacing these and I have yet to change the boost gauge one as it seems very difficult to get at. Is this a common problem? 5) The replacement rubber lip on the front bumper is a stupid price as are the hood seals etc. Someone at the Lotus Jumble at Stonleigh said that the original manufacturer had been found and the price was very reasonable can I have the address/phone number please. Regards Roger

Dec 30, 2001 - 02:21 - From: Mark
Title: Bay Area Track Day
Message: the golden gate lotus club is hosting a track day at Laguna Seca on March 4. Of note for those of us with unmodified M100s, open top cars without rollbars will be allowed on the track for one of the sessions. more info at www.gglotus.org 

Dec 30, 2001 - 04:24 - From: Guillermo
Title: Roger
Message: I remember some of your questions are already answered on this board. Just have a look at the archives files which you can access via a link on top of this page. Also helpful is the Access file for searching, but you need MS Access for using it.

Dec 30, 2001 - 13:24 - From: Dave
Title: Starter Motor
Message: Mike, I think from memory the starter is a Lucas part and at the time the price from Lotus was ££££'s. I was experiencing similar problems and sent mine away to be reconditioned -cost approx £60 and is as good as new -maybe worth a thought if the motor hasn't completely gone. Cheers and Happy New Year everybody.

Dec 30, 2001 - 19:59 - From: Joshua Lawrence
Title: Timing belt failures
Message: Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the result will be of a failed timing belt in the Elan. After checking with the previous owner, I learned that the belt in my car has never been changed, and it now has 90,000 miles. In the event of a failure, are you simply stranded, or will the results be catastrophic (do the valves protrude into the cylinder?)? I am leaning towards replacing it anyway, as being stranded is not usually a pleasant experience; however if the potential for serious damage exists it is not even an option for me. TIA, Joshua Lawrence

Dec 30, 2001 - 20:28 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: featured car
Message: Ours is the featured car in "The Market" segment of the Dec. 24th Autoweek magazine. Basically it says "pity the poor Elan", vilified for having an Isuzu motor far superior to the Ford sourced unit in the original Elan, that no one seems to notice. He (Keith Martin, the writer) said they are a lot of fun for the money.

Dec 30, 2001 - 20:34 - From: Matthew Welsh
Title: tired of rusted nuts/bolts?
Message: http://www.southcoaststainless.com/index.html 

Dec 31, 2001 - 00:55 - From: Doug
Title: SS Bolts etc
Message: Matthew, great link--I vote you to be in charge of making up a list of all the bolts worth changing in the engine bay, etc!! Get us a list and see if the owner will give us a discount and I'd bet many (myself included) would be interested!! There is a useful (accuracy unknown) list of Elan bolts on the GG Lotus site. I changed out all my engine bay bolts already (meticulously anal) and polished up some others but would still like some top quality SS ones!! Are you up for it? How's the Nitrous treating you? Did you get a license plate "N20 Elan" yet??!!

Dec 31, 2001 - 06:29 - From: Steve P
Title: Hood Down etc..
Message: Roger, unless I get caught in the rain my top is always down when out in the Elan, it's the only way, but rather bracing at this time of year! ;-) Interesting comment about modifications - I wouldn't do anything to change the external (or internal) appearance of the car, that would be sacrilege in my eyes, however making the car better to drive with improved brakes, increasing the boost, Bills short throw shift etc. makes sense....No car is perfect, even the original as you know :-) Rattles.. worst on my Elan used to be in the doors, I used to dread going over bumps and hearing WW3 break out. In the end I stripped down the door and tightened every screw with locking compound, never heard a thing since!

Dec 31, 2001 - 15:29 - From: Ed
Title: Timing Belts
Message: Joshua, yes timing belt failure can be rather catastrophic. Valves and pistons should not be allowed to try and occupy the same place at the same time... I don't know of any anecdotal evidence for the Elan, but our engine should be no different than any other in that respect. Given the age and mileage, changing the timing belt would certainly be a reasonable thing to do.

Dec 31, 2001 - 17:47 - From: Doug
Title: pristine cars and rattles
Message: Roger, nothing personal, but as far as I am concerned, Original condition is for antiques and relics; neither of which I believe the M100 to be (yet!). I quieted my only squeaks from the roof storage area with some felt pads placed on the undersurface of the storage lid.