Nov 30, 2000 - 02:29 - From: Doug Title: Seat Heaters Message: Okay, rather than field ongoing emails about the topic, as people are interested in it now, I decided to make the full write-up for you all! Check it out in the "Upgrades" section! Thanks to Andy Y and Jamie Y for their email help to me with the project. ;-)
Nov 30, 2000 - 03:49 - From: will Title: bill luton Message: bill i will get all of the details. i was quoted a price of $3500. and that includes everything. not just a kit. i have seen those kits in boxes, and in cars. this guy does really nice work. the import racing seen here is really big. there is definitely a japanese influence here. i need the work done. my friend is about to get his car back from the shop. he had an integra type r motor put in a civic. he should be doing 13s at the track. he believes that honda rules the entire driving world.
Nov 30, 2000 - 04:57 - From: Richard S Title: Paintwork Message: If anyone has had any paintwork done by Ryland of Birmingham U.K (now know as Rystar) over the last 6 years can they let me know.
Nov 30, 2000 - 09:38 - From: Dave M. Title: price follow-up/auction Message: Finally got my EBC slotted rotors for $79 a piece. A bit more than Doug paid from the UK, but shipping was much better ($18). My wife doesn't understand what new parts do to a car nut, but my two-year old now knows how to say "slotted rotor". He understands. Also, if anyone is going to the Lotus Corps auction in the Chicago area tonight, please track me down. I'll be in the Lotus Engineering shirt. And please don't bid on the Lotus shop clocks. I want one for my garage!
Dec 1, 2000 - 04:51 - From: Paul P Title: Oil Crisis Message: I have and SE which is very thirsty on oil and I find that I am using about 1 litre (from full to empty on the dipstick) for every 1000 miles. I am baffled as there is no excessive smoke from the exhaust or major leakage around the engine. Has anyone had a similar experience? All I can think of is problems with the turbo - although it appears to work fine.
Dec 1, 2000 - 07:21 - From: Richard S Title: VIN Numbers Message: Can I urge all owners who add their VIN numbers to the Members list to give the 10th letter from the left and the last 4 digits. The letter denotes the year and the digits the serial number. See http://www.best.com/~gglotus/ "Technical Info", "M100 Elan" for more information on VIN codes. Thanks Richard
Dec 1, 2000 - 08:43 - From: Mike Rice Title: Funny Noises! Message: I started the car up from cold recently (actually, the first time it had been started in 2-3 weeks :-( ), and while it was idling a sound rather like a dry leaf or a piece of paper rubbing against a drive belt came from the drive-belt side of the engine. I had a close look but couldn't see anything trapped there - it was very hard (like most noises) to pinpoint its source exactly. When the car is warmed up, the noise stops. Any ideas?
Dec 2, 2000 - 01:42 - From: Doug Title: Nirvana Message: Okay I finally got all the stuff done to my Elan--Changed the oil and filter, changed the tranny oil, changed the coolant, bled the brakes, got NEW tires, got a great alignment, put in the seat heaters, cleaned and polished her, put in some new replacement bits here and there, and some other stuff! Boy she is fun to drive now! I updated the write-ups on these things too. Looking forward to a fun drive next Sunday, the 10th--see ya there!
Dec 2, 2000 - 01:50 - From: David Title: rub it in doug Message: where as Doug is finished with all his projects I am just starting...Who was just talking about wires for their cars? Did we determine what the best ones were, I didn't see it in the upgrade section and I want to squeeze the best out of my snazzy new torquemaster plugs...What about a complete weather stripping kit? do we have to go to lotus for that? ...Jamie and Doug any pics of where you placed your heater switches?
Dec 2, 2000 - 01:53 - From: David Title: oh ya Message: any nocal people heading south for the drive on the 10th? doug is that the same parking area as last summer?
Dec 2, 2000 - 02:57 - From: Doug Title: David Message: Yes, same place--easy to remember. Get the Magnecor wires, you can get them from Bill--er--ahh--mmmm--I guess you can go to their site instead ;-) I put the heater switches just behind the window switches as you can see a bit in the last picture of the seat heater write-up I did. Yes they are toasty and you can try them out on the 10th! Jamie put his in the 2 switch blanks below the hazard and A/C switches.
Dec 2, 2000 - 03:18 - From: Ray Title: Waxoyl Treatment Message: Hello All, I was just wondering if anybody has used "Waxoyl" to treat the chassis/suspension components of their car and if it is worth while, especially as it is relatively cheap to buy and seems easy to apply.
Dec 3, 2000 - 07:04 - From: George Title: Waxoyl? Message: Ray, what is Waxoyl treatment? Is it some type of anti-corrosive treatment for those metal components? Just wondering and would be very interested if that is the case.
Dec 3, 2000 - 07:20 - From: Adrian Title: BOOST GAUGE Message: Can anyone please help. I have recently noticed my boost gauge is not returning to zero, it will only drop to the first mark above zero, this is the same when the engine is on or off, even if I just turn on the ignition It immediately goes to the first mark above zero but the needle does return to its stop once the ignition is turned off. The car seems to be running ok and apart from this the gauge seems to work alright at maximum boost. Is this a major problem or just a faulty gauge. Any answers to this will be much appreciated.
Dec 3, 2000 - 19:33 - From: Will Title: ideas Message: i think that i am one of the youngest owners of the elan on this site. I may offend some of the purists but, i was watching speedvision. the were talking about the Ferrari Modena and the 911 turbo. when they showed the interior of both cars. they had brushed aluminum accents everywhere. has anyone done this to their car? if so, can you tell me where you got the parts? yes the elan is my toy. and i was thinking of doing a tail light conversion. i will accept any pointers. oh yeah bill. the guy is going to do the turbo upgrade for $2500. that also includes a fuel system work up as well. he suggested the T3 turbo. which do you suggest? i know doug, if i wanted straight ahead speed i should have bought a z28 or a mustang. but i will be getting my new 225/40/17's next week. my grand parents gave me my christmas gift early. with a lot of begging done by me.
Dec 3, 2000 - 23:21 - From: Andy Y Title: Trim Message: Will, I agree on the brushed accent look - looks very modern. I was actually thinking of starting w/ the carpet on the lower door - replacing it w/ a 1/4" brushed alum plate. It's very easy once you make a template. I have yet to start this project, but once you make a perfect template (possibly out of MDF medium density fiberboard) you can duplicate it on a router table. Next you peel the backing on one side of the alum. and make a jig to run the alum back and fourth on a flat surface w/ 400 grit stick on sandpaper...that's the idea - I'll get more detailed as I start it one day...Also, if you decide on upgrading your tail lights, please let me and (possibly Doug) know. We need to replace our partially broken lights...
Dec 4, 2000 - 05:57 - From: Ray Title: Waxoyl Treatment Message: George. I think Waxoyl is a spray on treatment that is supposed to protect the chassis from rust. I seem to recall seeing it mentioned in a Lotus service manual. I saw some in my local car accessory shop the other day and thought it sounded worth doing especially here in England.
Dec 4, 2000 - 10:59 - From: Dave M. Title: Lotus site Message: If you haven't seen it yet, check out www.lotuswebshop.com for some very unique Lotus stuff. Prepare to spend some time and money.
Dec 4, 2000 - 15:31 - From: George Swet;and Title: Fuel leak revisited!!! Message: Referring back tot he May and June 1999 Archives, I now an experiencing the same fuel-leak-upon-fill-up problem that doug had. Today, I filed a complaint with the NHTSA, and called both Lotus cars USA, and Platinum Motors. I have never had a call returned from Platinum, so i expect the same from them. I E-mailed Lotus UK. My call to Dwayne Shumate at Lotus US, revealed that Dave Simkin, formerly of Bauer/Platinum, has now taken over as the rep. from Lotus for California. I spoke to Dave, who I knew personally, and he denied any knowledge of Lotus 'warrantying' this type of problem. He suggested I get the car over to Platinum and let Harry 'look at it'. This sounds like a money pit in the making. I think it best to hold off on doing this until I get word of some official kind that there is some hope of the Factory acknowledging that if there is a defect, they will assist in fixing it. Any further ideas? George Swetland
Dec 4, 2000 - 17:14 - From: will Title: tail lights Message: andy i want to change the whole thing. there is a guy here that is trying to fit a body kit on the car. it is more difficult than i thought. he did make a civic front end fit on a blazer. but i wanted the ferrari modena tail lights. since the car is fiberglass it should not be tooo difficult. the car is already different. i just want the one and only. i also wanted flush headlights. i have a lot of wants. a whole lot of wants. i figured i do it now before i get married.
Dec 4, 2000 - 18:31 - From: Andy Y Title: Married eh? Message: Will, speaking of marriage (sp? looks very WEIRD) I will be in your neck of the woods in Jan attending one of those rituals. Are you on Oahu? Hey, if you get your lights in by that time maybe I can work out something w/ you on your old ones???
Dec 5, 2000 - 00:54 - From: Edward Title: Check Engine light Message: Two bad things happened today: had a van spit-up rocks at my car and put a slight ding on my windshield, and on my way home, the Elan started running erratically -- when I revved above 4,000 RPM -- followed by a check engine light. The light went away after an engine shutdown and restart, but returned later. I suspected the infamous CAS fault, and proceeded to obtain the diagnostic codes from the ALDL. Sure enough, it was a code 41! So I guess it going to the shop at Symbolic for repair...hope it's not too expensive?
Dec 5, 2000 - 05:19 - From: Richard S Title: Waxoyl Message: Waxoyl is a rust preventative coating that can be sprayed or painted. Lotus specify Dinol rather than Waxoyl and I have a Classic Car magazine article from some years ago that did a comparison between various types of rust preventing materials - Dinol came out tops with Waxoyl some way down the list. The problem with any wax type material is that if used on wishbones and other exposed surfaces it washes away over time and re-applications are required. The M100 Chassis requires re-application every 2 years to keep within the requirements of the 8 year guarantee when they also spray over all the suspension components as well (and the body and windscreen!). As with all wax treatments it needs a sound base to apply it to, the M100 wishbones usually have flaking paint and the wax doesn't flow beneath the paint and it tends to pull the paint off exposing bare metal beneath. The Dinol wax is supposed to be good on bare metal. Dinol is more expensive than Waxoyl.
Dec 5, 2000 - 08:12 - From: Rod Title: Waxoyl Message: I heard from a guy that had his car in for service at the actual Lotus factory service dept. It was a long drive for him but he said two good things came out of it a) he did the factory tour b) the service people claimed that when the Waxoyl, they do a real good job, cleaning everything up first, and also "injecting" into some areas of the car.
Dec 5, 2000 - 11:15 - From: Bill Luton Title: turbos and models Message: Will, We stick with the T3/T4 because it has the ability to produce more power. What you use depends on what sort of power output you want._ _ _The "Lotus Web Shop" lists two M100 models, one that is the Maisto and one that doesn't indicate the scale. There is a big note next to the description of the Maisto model stating "out of stock". They didn't run out of stock because they couldn't sell any, they ran out of stock because they can't keep enough on hand to fill orders. This might be just the people to talk to about getting a larger scale model built, as they have motivation to get a new model to sell to make up for the products they are out of stock on._ _ _Bill Luton
Dec 5, 2000 - 12:23 - From: Bryn Title: Oil in Turbo intake Message: I have oil residue in the turbo intake pipe between the airbox & turbo. Is this anything to worry about? is there a crankcase breather which may deposit oil into this pipe?
Dec 5, 2000 - 15:32 - From: George Swetland Title: Fuel leak, Held Hostage/Day Two Message: As of noon today, I have had no response from Platinum Motors (no big surprise here...) regarding the leaking fuel tank on our 1991 Elan. I called Lotus Cars USA, and asked for Duwayne Shumate, but he was on another line, and most likely will shuffle me off to poor Dave Simkin again who has no direct knowledge of this problem. Got back into the NHTSA site and found six other reports of the same problem, not including the one I filed yesterday. Look them up at www.nhtsa.gov/cars/problems/complain/compmmy.cfm. Looks like there have been no Lotus Flambe's as of yet. Wonder how many have leaked and not filed a report with them...? Hope to see you'all on Sunday. George & Buffy
Dec 5, 2000 - 18:26 - From: will Title: andy y Message: Andy if i do the tail light conversion. i will give you my lights. no cost, well maybe shipping. i will be off island for about a month. i am going to maryland to visit family. i will be back on the tenth of january. hopefully i will have my finances together so i can have the new turbo before i return.
Dec 6, 2000 - 12:51 - From: Dave M. Title: why? Message: OK, Will...your previous message has me curious in a grotesque way. Do you have a picture of the Blazer with the Civic front end? I refuse comment other than to say I feel bad for the Civic.
Dec 6, 2000 - 13:58 - From: Barry Berman Title: Waxes/Polish Message: I'm about due for my yearly full detail, and am interested in everybody's opinion on waxes, lotions, leather cleaning. I've been using Zymol for the paint, but I think there may be something better out there. For leather, I use Lexol PH for cleaning and Hide Food for conditioning. I'm fairly happy with that, pain to put on, but lovely to feel afterwards. Carpet cleaning, I use Dri Clean by Blue Coral. Then of course the usual armor all and windex. Suggestions please;) Barry.
Dec 6, 2000 - 17:28 - From: will Title: front end Message: okay dave i may have you confused. when i said front end. i meant the lower portion. from the bumper down. it was a kit from wings west designed for the civic. i will get a picture of the truck for you. it is nice.
Dec 6, 2000 - 17:30 - From: will Title: glasses Message: for you uk guys. i know this is completely off of the subject of cars. but i subscribe to loaded magazine. they have the glasses keanu reeves wore in matrix. they are not for sale her. can you give me a price?
Dec 6, 2000 - 17:53 - From: George Swetland Title: Fuel Tank leak, Day three... Message: Results! Dave Simkin our local Lotus Factory Rep. is meeting me at Platinum Motors tomorrow to look at the problem. He made no promises, but this is a positive step in resolving this defect. Stay tuned... George
Dec 6, 2000 - 23:38 - From: Barry Berman Title: Rims? Looking to buy;) Message: I'm finally going to break down and get some rims. I saw Doug's painted break calipers and would like to do that on mine too, so I'm looking for some good open spoke rims, like, 3, 4 or 5 spokes. Anybody know of some good rim manufacturers for this? I found one from a link on this site in the past but can't seem to find it again. Anybody? Barry.
Dec 7, 2000 - 02:15 - From: Edward Title: Wheels Message: Barry...try www.ozwheels.com
Dec 7, 2000 - 03:34 - From: Rod Title: Wheels Message: I am sure you already have done Barry, but if not, make sure you read all the information Doug has about the M100 wheels. General feeling is that you should aim to get as close to the spec of the M100 standard wheels. Certainly check for the offset and weight of any afterfit wheels.
Dec 7, 2000 - 06:01 - From: George Title: Wheels. Message: I was just checking the Tire Rack site. This is interesting... they have several 17" wheels for our car... Back then, they only specified Millie Miglia wheels for the Elan, 16" also. Anyway, here is the url: http://www.tirerack.com/mycar/baseframeset.jsp?model=Elan&make=Lotus&year=1991
Dec 7, 2000 - 08:29 - From: Dave M. Title: detail time Message: Barry, I would suggest after washing the car (with a good car wash liquid of some sort) use some paint cleaning clay. We talked about it a little earlier (in Nov?) and several manufacturers make it. It will take off a lot of impurities and make your polish and/or wax applications much easier. I got mine from www.griotsgarage.com. I've used a lot of their other products, too (car wash, polish, best of show wax) and really like them. For tires, bag the Armor All. Meguiars has a gel that goes on and lasts much better. Enjoy! I love cleaning my car almost as much as driving it. Too bad I'm in 6" of snow right now.
Dec 7, 2000 - 11:58 - From: Barry Berman Title: Wheels Part 2 Message: I read in the manual that the size of our rims are 16 x 7, I believe that is echo'ed in Doug's wheel page too. Tirerack is showing only 17 x 7 rims. Is there something I don't know about? Should we only look at 17 x 7 rims now?
Dec 7, 2000 - 12:10 - From: Barry Berman Title: Wheels Pt 3 Message: The 17 x 7 are to get a larger tire size. I talked to him about the 16 x 7 wheels, but he said none have the same offset. Should I be worried about this? Or is there some kind of adapter I should use to correct the offset? Barry.
Dec 7, 2000 - 15:02 - From: Bill Luton Title: Wheel Fitment Message: I'm surprised Tire Rack lists anything, they are tied by an umbilical cord to their reference book which says there is nothing available for any Isuzu car or Elan. The biggest problem is that there are no 56.5 mm hubcentric ring adaptors available. Aftermarket wheels are made with an oversized hubcentric ring (something like 76 mm) and then they make plastic insert adaptors to fit the wheel to any of the dozens of sizes of hubcentric rings used by various manufacturers. But no one makes 56.5 mm adaptors, so, as of three or four months ago, it was Tire Rack's stated policy that they did not offer any wheels to fit Isuzu cars or Elan._ _ _The way around this is to order the wheel by specification, not application, stating the required diameter, width, bolt pattern, offset, and hubcentric ring diameter, but order for a 56 mm ring and use a sanding drum on a drill to enlarge the plastic ring insert to fit the hub of the car. Unfortunately, another of Tire Rack's policy's has been not to allow customers to order wheels by specification, only by application, because it is their belief that none of us can figure out what size wheel fits a car and that their reference book knows more than those of us who work on cars._ _ _On offset, 60 mm is the OEM offset. 48 mm is the deepest available on most aftermarket wheels. This will space the wheel out 1/2 inch farther and will fill in the wheel arch more, which is not a problem as long as the wheel and tire are not so wide as to contact the fender lip. I seem to remember reading that Lotus accidentally forgot to compensate for shrinkage in their fiberglass molds and that the wheel arches turned out a little larger than intended. The 1/2 inch difference in offset might actually return the appearance to more like what they originally intended._ _ _Bill Luton
Dec 7, 2000 - 16:59 - From: randy Title: clay Message: I tried the following experiment, using Meguiars clay product. I washed the car, using Meguiars specified wash. I them waxed the car on one side, using Mequiars. I used the clay on the other side before I waxed. The results were dramatic. The clay side was both smoother to the touch and a more brilliant shine. I am convinced.
Dec 7, 2000 - 17:08 - From: George Title: Detail advice too Message: Barry, I agree with Dave on the clay bar that cleans the paint. I use Mother's Clay Bar to clean the paint after washing the car thoroughly. After that I use Meguiar's Cleaner Wax as the first wax application. Then I use a sealer wax for the final application. Lexol is great on the leather. If you get that sticky film after trying to buff out the conditioner, just use Armor All to clear that up, save you a lot of headache. Get some plastic window cleaner too for your rear window, you could polish it like new. For the wheels, use Meguiar or Eagle 1 wheel cleaner... Just leave the foam on for a couple of minutes and spray it off. The wheel cleaners make a big difference on making the wheel stay cleaner in the future. Wash the tires with sponge and soap water and get some wheel shine sprays (No Touch Premium Wet/Protect is the best), Don't use the self cleaning foam type, the shine would only last for 10 minutes.
Dec 7, 2000 - 17:51 - From: Edward Title: CAS part received Message: I went to pickup the CAS to repair my code 41 problem. Just for grins...I asked the Isuzu dealer if they could install the part. Their response was that it would probably be 6 hours of labor. I told them that this was at best an 1 1/2 hour job. Then they said that no one in their shop had heard of a CAS and would have to spend time to look it up. Needless to say I left so that the Lotus dealer could install next Wednesday.
Dec 7, 2000 - 21:21 - From: Barry Berman Title: CAS Part Message: Oh really? When I inquired about this at my local dealer, Platinum, they sold me a kit I could install myself. Me being Mr. Butterfingers, it took me about an hour, but I'd imagine it's only about a 30 minute job. Barry.
Dec 7, 2000 - 21:28 - From: Barry Berman Title: Cleaners Message: Thanks for the comments. I'll go for the Mequaire line's cleaners, clay and polish. My this will be a fun trip to the parts store;) I didn't know about a plastic polish for the rear window. I'll try that. My windows in fairly good shape since I never ever have the top up. Am I the only one that drives like that? If it's winter just turn on the heat! Good tips on the tires/rim cleaners. I'm gonna get new rims now too;) Barry.
Dec 7, 2000 - 22:50 - From: David Title: attn: barry "butterfingers" berman Message: Barry what did they put in that kit? and how much was it? I hear what your saying my tops only up when it rains but unfortunately in my neck of the woods that happens frequently during the winter...maybe drains installed in the floorpans?
Dec 7, 2000 - 23:55 - From: Barry Berman Title: CAS Kit Message: It came with two electric parts. One that plugged from the harness to the CAS sensor, and then the sensor itself. Most of the time spent for me was attaching the the sockets so the wires would plug into the CAS sensor. You've actually got to do that with a wire stripper and clamp. The CAS is hidden underneath a plastic piece, (see I told you I wasn't mechanically inclined). With the old CAS attached, all you've got to do is mark with a grease pen the position of the old one to the engine block. Then remove the old one and attach the new one in the same position. I was told that I could bring in the car to test the timing after that if I wasn't sure I did it right, but it drove perfect after that, so I never took it in to test. BTW, in case you don't understand my explanation, the kit does come with instructions! Oh, I live in LA, rain? what's rain;) Barry.
Dec 8, 2000 - 01:49 - From: Edward Title: CAS kit? Message: Hi Barry, when you say a CAS kit, what was the part number? I ordered the part # 8-01103-818-1 and received a box containing a single part and no instructions. It looks like you have to connect a plug and insert into some kind of rotating hole (sorry for the laymen's explanation). Could you describe what grease pencil marks you made and how to place this single part on to the engine?
Dec 8, 2000 - 02:22 - From: Barry Berman Title: CAS Kit Message: Sorry, I didn't save it. At that time I didn't know this site existed, otherwise I'd have scanned it in and posted the repair, it was simple. I don't have the part number, but it's an official lotus part. I bought it right at Platinum Motors. They had both the CAS and the CAS repair kit in stock. I opted for the kit, was like $100 and could be installed on my own. I was told the other had to be installed by the lotus tech. The instructions was only a one page sheet on how to replace it. But the grease pencil instruction came from David Simkin. Literally, it was just "mark a line to make sure it's in the same place." It was pretty simple. Barry.
Dec 8, 2000 - 03:07 - From: Richard S Title: CAS Part Number Message: From the November archive Nov 21, 2000 - 03:07 - From: Richard S Title: CAS Hall Effect Sensor Lotus Code Message: The new CAS Hall Effect Sensor is Lotus part number A100E0102S and costs 96.63UKP which I think is a bit steep but there you are. Doug can you add this code info into one of your pages please. (The old sensor was code A100E6569S/R)
Dec 8, 2000 - 04:08 - From: david Title: heat? Message: weird thing happened on my way over the 17 tonight on my way to the airport...I was cresting the hill and felt my heat temp coming out of the vents drop by half and now its barely luke warm any ideas on this?
Dec 8, 2000 - 08:07 - From: Tony Vaccaro Title: heat temp in half Message: check your coolant level...air does not transmit heat a effectively as coolant..if you are losing coolant...check the valve right behind the inlet manifold...mine was leaking there..outside of this...i dont know..
Dec 8, 2000 - 08:37 - From: Davy Neill Title: engine timing Message: i had a go at setting the engine timing. When i first checked it, it was miles out, like about 0 degrees. I started to adjust it but i only got up as far as 12 degrees and then i ran out of adjustment on the CAS. I'm sure i've kept to the instructions; spark plug 1, put car into service mode, etc. Am i doing anything blindingly stupid?
Dec 8, 2000 - 10:52 - From: Edward Title: CAS kit v. complete CAS Message: Barry, just to clarify...you replaced the entire CAS -- instead of replacing or repairing the Hall Sensor. I have the part that is the entire CAS and after reading your explanation, it seems that you can simply take off the CAS and put the new one in it's place, making sure you position the new one like the old one. Then you connect the two electrical connectors -- one going to the Hall Sensor and the the other one. Does that sound right?
Dec 8, 2000 - 12:36 - From: Barry Berman Title: CAS Kit Message: I'm not sure if it replaced the whole CAS or repaired the Hall sensor. It was a repair kit so I'd imagine it was not replacing the whole sensor. Wish I saved the instructions for you to see it. Barry.
Dec 8, 2000 - 12:59 - From: Steve P Title: Engine Timing Message: You can't adjust the timing unless you have a link in the ECU diagnostic link connector behind the glove box. Doug has all the info on this site. If you do have the link in you've got a problem! ;-)
Dec 8, 2000 - 13:05 - From: Steve P Title: Engine timing Message: Sorry, I see you've put the car into 'service mode'! Did you rev the engine and reduce rpm slowly? Also it's worth checking your pulley wheel is marked in the correct place. Check for the notch and highlight with some correction fluid otherwise you can't always be sure quite what you're timing reference is!
Dec 8, 2000 - 17:32 - From: will Title: windows Message: barry it gets a little cold here in the winter. around 70 to 75 degrees. but my window still looks like crap.
Dec 8, 2000 - 19:10 - From: Edward Title: Installing CAS Message: I installed the CAS part using the suggestions and writeups in this message board. Well, it took me about 10 minutes to install -- including tightening the adjustment bolt. After that, the car started and I went to pickup my son from school a few minutes later. I purposely revved the engine above 5000 RPM, just to make sure the check engine light would not come on. So far, it seems to work Ok, but just to be sure, I'm taking it next week for timing check.
Dec 8, 2000 - 19:45 - From: Doug Title: CAS Message: Hey guys, just got home from a week long 'family' trip--still got to load all the wine out of the car we picked up while cruising Central Cal wino country! Well I feel I need to clarify things here and will update numbers and write-ups as needed. You can get the CAS from Isuzu and this is the 'whole unit'--I do not know for sure but the way described it sounds like the Lotus 'repair kit' may be not the whole thing but just a replacement Hall Effect Sensor which is )part of the CAS) an electronic sensor and will just snap and plug into place under the 'plastic cap'. Either way will work as it is the Hall Effect Sensor that fails as described so well by Charlie in his write-up! NOW, no matter how you fix this you will need to RESET the BASE ENGINE TIMING as this is actually the orientation between the CAS unit and the engine that determines this. If there is even a micron of motion the timing will change. The engine will usually run fine at rest as the ECU will ADJUST the rest of the engine to compensate for the proper running mix and spark--but there is a limit that the engine can adjust! It's like having your steering wheel set 90 degrees off--yes you can just turn it so it looks centered but it is still set wrong! The bottom line is that with the engine pouring out boost and revving at up to 6000 or more RPM, you want to be sure the car can still have the timing as desired! **If it is not set right at its base then it will be off everywhere (except for the AFTERTHOUGHT corrections by the ECU).** The 'grease pencil' trick will get you in the ball park but I can tell you from experience that your timing is "guaranteed" to be off after replacing the CAS. I will even argue that many mechanics will say you don't need to reset the timing if you are careful, but I will put up loads of money to them to watch their expression and win when they see the timing numbers after the repair--and I bet they would do the timing on their own cars! It IS hard to get the timing right and it should really be checked at least annually. Just loosen the hex screw a bit so you can tap the sensor gently to move it fractions of a millimeter and you will see the timing change dramatically. Steve's suggestion about marking the timing mark to make it more visible is a good one-->just be sure to mark it in the right spot as lightly as possible so you don't mess it up. If anyone wants to bring a timing light with them Sunday we can watch and laugh at how every Elan's timing is off (yes mine is overdue for a reset too)!!
Dec 8, 2000 - 20:11 - From: Bill Luton Title: Not that hard Message: A cam angle sensor is just a fancy distributor, it is not that hard to replace, in fact, it is easier because you don't have to worry about mixing up the ignition wires. It's one bolt that holds it in, two plugs to the electrical system, and then the whole thing comes out. Installation is two plugs and a bolt, then set the timing with a timing light, just like if it were a distributor, jumper the plug, loosen the bolt, twist until the mark is in the right spot, tighten the bolt, you're done._ _ _Bill Luton
Dec 9, 2000 - 19:05 - From: charlie Title: yellow elans in studio city area Message: i've seen a yellow elan knocking around where i live, but didn't recognize the driver. usually around lankershim/caheunga/ventura junction .. name yourself =)
Dec 9, 2000 - 19:10 - From: charlie Title: next meeting Message: i know there's one this weekend but! maybe we ought to think about doing a more arranged event where we could do a demonstration of a common repair, ie the CAS or door window. Obviously it'd have to be something that takes an hour or less, and not require any really serious tools.. Maybe we could even get the lotus rep to show up, though he'd probably watch in horror as we repair our own cars..
Dec 9, 2000 - 19:14 - From: Scott Title: Oil drip Message: Hey guys, its been a while since I last posted...my new consulting job is keeping me busy. I am fighting to find the source of an oil drip. My oil pan plug and filter are okay, I have had it on a lift twice and alls well. I have an oily residue on the tranny bell housing, the front of the block, downpipe and on front of oil pan. I think its the CAS, since it has an O-Ring and this location would leave oil the freedom to visit the areas listed above. Anyone experience this...or have any ideas. Thanks. -Scott
Dec 9, 2000 - 23:57 - From: Barry Berman Title: First Accessories Message: I finally broke down and start accessorizing my Elan. I bought a 3rd party gear shift and pedal covers. My gear shift was getting ratty, so I opted for a metal one. It's a lot easier to replace once you consult the service guide loosen a hex screw holding it in place. It doesn't just screw one like most gear shifts. The pedal covers just slip onto the old pedals. I looked at mine and realized that two of my rubber pads were missing, and I've been pressing on bare metal, for probably years. I just removed the remaining pad and slipped these one. It fits pretty tight except for the accelerator pedal, or as Mr. Burns calls it, the velocimatrix;). That one is a tad loose because the metal is soooo thin. I bought the thinnest one that Auto Freak (local custom shop) had and it is still a tad loose. Still though, I like it. If you are going to be there tomorrow you can see it. Oh, and I replaced my windshield wiper blades (first time, and I'm an original owner). I told you, I don't drive with the top up, which means never in the rain too. I figured though, it might rain tomorrow though in Santa Monica so I'll be prepared. Next are rims, and paint my brake calipers. Barry.
Dec 10, 2000 - 09:18 - From: Tony V Title: Cam angle sensor oil leak Message: Barry....when I removed my "bad" CAS I had a definite oil leak. The CAS was loaded with oil...fresh oil. Change the O-ring and if that does not work...change the CAS...
Dec 10, 2000 - 10:12 - From: Bill Luton Title: oil leak Message: If you have oil on the front of the block and the exhaust down pipe, it is not coming from the cam angle sensor. A leak from that little o ring on the cam angle sensor is going to be more like a tear straight down from the cam angle sensor, onto the transmission bell housing. It will not go forward or across to the engine block or, especially, onto the exhaust pipe. You very well might have a small leak from the cam angle sensor, but if you are getting oil on the front of the block and the exhaust down pipe, that oil is coming from somewhere else, probably a turbo seal, or a small leak from the oil lines going to and from the turbo._ _ _Bill Luton
Dec 10, 2000 - 11:13 - From: Barry Berman Title: CAS Leak Message: Geez, that sucks, when I opened up mine it was just fine. Perhaps you needed that whole CAS part like you got. Barry.
Dec 10, 2000 - 12:38 - From: richard burke Title: can you help? Message: i looked an elan SE today which i hope to buy, but when i turned the steering wheel, i heard a noise similar to air escaping. Is this normal on Elans? Is the steering pneumatic rather than hydraulic? Please help, Thanks.
Dec 10, 2000 - 12:46 - From: Rod Title: can you help ? Power Steering Message: Yes, its normal to here that noise, but only really when you are at a standstill, and especially at full lock. Suggest were you viewed the car and maybe an existing M100 owner on this BBS could take a look at the car for you.
Dec 11, 2000 - 15:20 - From: Kev Title: Non turbo Elan Message: I'm looking at getting a Non turbo elan. 55000 miles very little service history quite clean but minor faults (torn roof, few scratches, elec window not work) for the very low price of £6500. The engine sounds good and smooth it drives fine but when braking hard from 90ish, the car pulls to the left quite dramatically. there does not seem to be any visible damage from a crash. I think it may be a rear caliper. I don't want to buy this car if it could be anything major. Any advice welcome. Thanks.... kev
Dec 12, 2000 - 04:18 - From: Dom Title: Intermittent start problem Message: Hi. I have an intermittent problem starting my car. The lights on the dashboard (including engine management light) come on, and you can hear the fuel pump whirr and prime. The problem is that when the key is turned fully, the starter motor wont turn. It can stay like this for a few seconds or many minutes and if you hold the key fully turned, the motor can catch with no change in what I am doing. I don't know if the problem is here or somewhere else, but I had the CAS replaced (it needed it anyway) and that didn't cure the problem. Any ideas? Getting petrol late at night to avoid holding everyone up is getting very inconvenient! Thanks...
Dec 12, 2000 - 04:34 - From: Rod Title: Non Turbo Elan Message: Kev, to be very honest, I would pay the extra and get a turbo. The non-turbo was made in very limited numbers, and suffers from bad handling I was told. I noticed what looked like a really good Turbo ( history etc ) for £8.5k in autotrader last week. As winter sets in and for cars with less history, prices will fall over the next could of months.
Dec 12, 2000 - 08:08 - From: Dave M. Title: let it snow, let it snow, let it snow... Message: I know James Bond drove his Lotus in the snow, but after the 15" we got last night, my girl is staying warm in the garage for a while. Besides, after the discussion we had on performance tires, I don't even want to bring up snows...
Dec 12, 2000 - 11:28 - From: Andy Y Title: No Start Message: Dom, it could be 1 of 2 problems - possibly even both. The contacts in your starter solenoid could be hammered or you might be getting a voltage drop. Best way to confirm this is to clip on a 'remote start' switch from outside the vehicle. If you can jump the starter manually and consistently then I would lean towards the voltage drop theory. If not, it could be the solenoid. Let me know if it's the voltage drop - I have the perfect solution.
Dec 12, 2000 - 12:57 - From: Bryn Title: Non Turbo Elan Message: I agree with Rod's comments, go for a Turbo but look carefully at the cheap ones. I have just bought my Elan SE after looking around at a few, initially in the £8,500 - £10,000 range. At this level they are likely to need a few things doing and if you need to replace the roof (£1600), wishbones (£550 plus)do body repairs or anything else major, may be more economical to spend a little more for a real peach with a good history & no immediate big bills. Good luck.
Dec 12, 2000 - 13:41 - From: Rod Title: Non-Turbo Elan Message: I didn't go view the 8.5ukp Elan, but the advert and picture all sounded too good to be true ( Full Lotus History, approx 60k miles, Red, very good condition etc etc ), I could only think it was one of the pink ones, or was over-due for B+C service ( cambelt ).
Dec 12, 2000 - 15:12 - From: Doug Title: maintenance Message: Hi all, just wanted to report on some things: Changed the tranny oil to Redline MTL which runs well--can't tell if it is really better with shifting as some think with other cars, but it's definitely no worse. Bled/flushed the brakes which was easy with my Griot's Garage vacuum pump; the pedal feel is improved, firm, and solid now! My EBC front pads are 9 months old and show very little wear, while the EBC rotors are the same age with excellent surfaces and no grooves. The seat heaters are great!--take a few minutes to get snuggly warm in the morning--'low' is a soft warm feeling while 'high' is very warm (you could melt snow with it David!). Also got the new 225/45-16 Kumho Ecstas--like and ride great--can't tell how they handle yet though but I'll let ya know. My old speedo error was 4-5 MPH fast, and as expected this is improved to 1-2 MPH fast after the tire change as seen on my real-time GPS speed reading. Got to take the boy for his first Elan ride soon--no passenger airbag is a good thing here!
Dec 12, 2000 - 15:33 - From: Kev Title: Non-Turbo Elan Message: How much is a Cambelt change in UKP? I will have to get it done straight away. You can get a full warranty for £189 from autotrader website that covers all things like wishbones. You don't need an inspection just at least 3 months MOT.
Dec 12, 2000 - 15:36 - From: Kev Title: NON turbo elan. Message: Rob, what do you mean one of the pink ones? And how much does that service cost? Thanks
Dec 12, 2000 - 16:51 - From: Dom Title: Starting problem Message: Andy. The problem is so intermittent and unpredictable that I wouldn't be able to prove it with a remote start - unless it was permenant! I don't suppose you want to tell me the voltage drop solution??? The solenoid has been mentioned today by someone else as well, so I think I may look at and clean that this weekend. Does anyone know where it is?
Dec 12, 2000 - 19:05 - From: David Title: stuff Message: Doug melting snow sounds great for when i get it stuck in tahoe this year....if we drop our cars off at your house on a friday night can we get it back by monday morning after the service is done? ;o) Kev all red Elans have bad paint that will turn "pink" over time and the clearcoat will peel with high exposure to sunlight....Lotus actually told me that it was my fault for taking the car out in sunny conditions but after reading the owners manuel for the billionth time i cant find anywhere in there where it says that you can only drive then at night, they must have told the original owners at the dealership during pickup time so we should be able to get them to pay for it dince they didnt pass the info along
Dec 12, 2000 - 23:45 - From: Barry Berman Title: Replacing the Stick Shift Message: Hey all, I thought, you'd all like to have some suggestions on how to change the stick shift, plus some ways to overcome problems you might have. First the upper trim gaiter connects to the gear lever snugley but comes off just by pressing down firmly from where it's it's connected wrapped around the gear lever. Now the mettle washer with the groove in it has a grub screw that needs to be loosened, this is done with a hex wrench. Now that that is done, you can take off the gear shift knob by turning it counterclockwise over and over. Once I got that off, I noticed some scratches in the protective plastic where the grub screw was. So the way to replace it, was to remove all the protective plastic, then replace it with 1/2" black shrink to fit tubing. Use a hair dryer on it, and it shrinks back just like the orginal. Now for a new gear shift, I bought one from Razu, a japanese brand, it is basically one size fits all, but the adapter I used was the 10mm adapter. I assume that any other one would also need to use that size adapter too. The new shifter knob is just above the leather trim which I think looks great, but you may want to get a knob that has a washer with a groove in it like the old one. Barry.
Dec 13, 2000 - 00:58 - From: Andy Y Title: 'Rig/Fabrication' Whatever you want to call it Message: Dom, here's our solution for voltage drops. We have customers come w/ the same problem -- usually they've been turned away from the dealership after they've tried everything - even a new starter! Most import cars use a small guage wire from the key switch to the starter - after age/time wear and contamination; develop resistence thus the voltage drop. Use a 12v SPDT 30/40Amp relay to amplify the voltage to the solenoid. Use the ignition switch the activate the relay; that gets direct 12volts from the battery via heavy guage wire(8g - 10guage) to give the starter solenoid a real shot of 12volts. If you decide on this set-up, you can even add a LARGE RED start button, just like the S2000. Let me know if this is your problem and I'll make you a schematic. Andy
Dec 13, 2000 - 03:30 - From: Rod Title: Non-Turbo Elan Message: Kev, as far as I know *some* Red Elan's start turning a pink colour. The only solution is a full respray really ( 1500ukp+ ). You really need to see a "good" one to know we you are looking at a pink one. The B+C Service is around 60k miles, and depending on dealer can be anything from 500ukp to 1500ukp. The cam belt obviously gets changed, but things like a fuel filter change,( which is in an odd place, requiring a big amount of labour ) add up to several hours work. UK dealers charge anything from 50ukp to 80ukp/hour for work.
Dec 13, 2000 - 07:54 - From: Bryn Title: 'Cheap' Elans Message: Think there are some reasonable Elan SE's out there around the £8,500 level if you don't mind a few compromises. I looked at a Silver 90 G, 49,000 mls, new galvanised wishbones, good body, but with tatty hood, slightly sketchy history (but BIG, BIG bill for major service inc belts)and 6 (!) owners. Just looks like it needs a little TLC. Owner is looking around £8,500, happy to pass on his details to anyone interested.
Dec 13, 2000 - 12:49 - From: Rod Title: Cheap Elan's Message: The 8500ukp one I saw was a J-plate with 60k. There really must have been something wrong with it.
Dec 13, 2000 - 13:30 - From: Loren Title: more no-start data Message: My data showed about 1.9 volts drop from battery to solenoid control terminal - but checking the electrical layout has the ignition key contacts already driving a relay and picking up the solenoid. Unfortunitely all this circuitry goes thru the "maxifuse" and all suffers voltage drop. I wired in a ford starter relay from the main starter bus terminal (not thru the "maxifuse wiring") to the solenoid control terminal and switched the existing solenoid wiring to the external Ford starter relay. It seems that the starter solenoid needs almost 40 amps to operate. This worked for awhile until my alternator became intermittent (because the battery had one bad cell), so beware that car electrical problems are sometimes related. So now I have bypassed the "maxifuse wiring",checked battery-to-chassis ground wiring, rebuilt altenator, and a new battery. thank you,Loren
Dec 13, 2000 - 13:40 - From: Kev Title: Hard top Message: Has anyone got or seen one of these hard tops from NTS cars (in extras on this site)? What are they like? Do they leak? How much are they? If possible does anyone have pictures of these on real cars instead of the soft focus ones that are on the site. Thanks
Dec 13, 2000 - 13:51 - From: Bill Luton Title: Starting; Loren Message: Check the switch on the clutch pedal and the alarm. There is a switch on the clutch pedal that cuts the circuit to the starter to keep people from starting their car without the clutch pushed in. Usually, the alarm will involve a relay between the switch and the starter. If either the switch or the relay go out, the voltage will still drop when the key is turned, appearing exactly like all is fine except the starter is bad. We de-alarmed a car several weeks ago and several days later, had these same symptoms. We found that relay still between the clutch switch and the starter, and once it was removed, no more problems._ _ _Bill Luton
Dec 14, 2000 - 21:43 - From: Edward Title: reset ECM Message: I got my car back from Symbolic after I had installed the new CAS and decided they should check the timing for me. It took them about one hour and was charged for 1 hr of labor. The car seems to run Ok, but was wondering if reseting the ECM would be a good idea. I have been away for a couple of weeks and since I don't drive the car daily, it feels like it hesitates in 1st and second. With an aftermarket exhaust upgrade and the turbo bypass valce, I'm sure would improve this, but does anyone have experience with reseting the ECM?
Dec 14, 2000 - 23:56 - From: Doug Title: ECU reset Message: Edward, do I dare tell you to check other things like the plugs, etc? Well, it should not hurt the car to reset the ECU, but I do not suspect that is the problem. All you have to do is disconnect the battery and reconnect after a minute or so and the ECU will reset. I suspect the Symbolic guys know what they are doing, but if the timing is not correct it can cause roughening and hesitation--I'll just say nothing is better than setting the timing the right way and seeing it with your own eyes! If you come up to L.A. sometime give me a shout and we can check it ourselves--BTW I know they just use job-based hour charges from the book, but that is at most a 30 minute job!
Dec 15, 2000 - 00:23 - From: Barry Berman Title: hesitant accelleration Message: Hey, I had that problem, and I decided to change my spark plugs. It worked like a charm and was fun too. Remember to get a gapper for your plugs when you buy em. Barry.
Dec 15, 2000 - 01:54 - From: Edward Title: car running rough Message: Hi Doug, I checked the spark plugs last month but will certainly do it again. I haven't replaced the plugs since I got the car -- two months ago... In fact the plugs when I checked them were good and the gaps was just slighly off. I re-gapped them and put the plugs back in, leaving the new plugs still in the box. BTW, I did not talk to the after they returned my car, to find out how far-off the timing was. I did look under the hood and noticed the CAS was aligned precisely where the original one was -- that went bad. If anything, they might have adjusted it slightly. I'll be away for two weeks, but will call you when I get back to see about driving up to LA and maybe you could re-check the timing. I also would like to drive someone else's Elan to compare -- (ie yours), to have a point of comparison... Being a little mechanically challenged, I don't have a good understanding of all the inner workings of a car; however, I am a fast learner, and I am eager to learn. My goal is to have a car that has many aftermarket upgrades, but preserve the original look of the car.
Dec 15, 2000 - 04:56 - From: Dom Title: rear brake pads Message: I have bought some new disks for the back but also need new pads. I asked the Lotus dealer for a price and they quoted just over £72... There must be another option for these pads, I can't believe people have to pay that much. My slotted front disks didn't cost a lot more than that! Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Thanks, Dom. P.S. I am in the UK, but have ordered CAS from US in the past so don't mind ordering pads.
Dec 15, 2000 - 07:52 - From: George Title: Doug, about brakes Message: Doug, I need to get some new rear rotors. Could you recommand an after market product or me or am I SOL and stuck with having to get some "Genuine Lotus Parts?" I got the pads, but my rear rotors are a mess right now. Thanks. :-)
Dec 15, 2000 - 14:33 - From: Doug Title: Brakes Message: George, I do not know of an aftermarket rotor yet for the rears--this is solely because no one has taken the time to match the rear rotors up. The front rotors have a "German" G.M. Part number engraved into them, and my bet would be that the rears do too--this could be used to cross-reference the rotors to other GM cars and then we could use this info to find aftermarket rotors.
Dec 15, 2000 - 17:24 - From: George Title: Doug, thanks Message: Thanks man. I'll look that up and see what going on with them. So they are German GM parts huh... =) Oh, by the way, I think I've read that you got them new Kumhos on your Elan. How do you like them so far?
Dec 15, 2000 - 20:17 - From: Andy Y Title: Front discs Message: A while back my friend Derek referenced them to a US GM part @ a NAPA auto parts store. Hey Derek, if you read this msg -- share the knowledge!
Dec 17, 2000 - 18:54 - From: Barry Berman Title: New Rims/Tires, warning Message: Hey all, I just put on new rims on my car, plus a few new tires. A couple warnings though. I purchased my rims from Tire Rack, so they were drop shipped to the tire store where they put them on, Stokes Tire Pros, in Santa Monica, CA. Well, once they were on, I noticed a chip in one of the rims. The Stokes Tires says it was like that when they came in from Tire Rack. This may be correct, but they didn't notice it till I pointed it out. Plus, Tire Rack won't replace a rim that has already been installed. Quite the quandry huh. Looks to me like I have to ride around on a rim with a chip on it because of negligence of Stokes Tire. Either they didn't inspect the rims, or they chipped the rim on accident. One other warning is to install rims when you are getting new tires. When I had these installed I was reusing two of my old tires since they didn't need to be replaced yet. Well, one of those tires couldn't be transferred because it was damaged, and the tire store didn't have another one instock to replace it. So I had to go to another store for that one, nice! Barry.
Dec 18, 2000 - 08:12 - From: Richard Steele Title: Rod Little Message: Rod, Can you email me your phone number?
Dec 18, 2000 - 15:54 - From: Barry Berman Title: New Rims Pt 2 Message: Whoa out of the blue, TireRack decided to replace my rim. I'll let Stokes off the hook. BTW, they really did give me a fantastic alignment while I was there. Barry.
Dec 18, 2000 - 18:53 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Parts for sale Message: I have a couple of parts for those you are in need. I thought I would offer then to the Elan board before I try ebay. Here is what I have: I have an air conditioner evaporator that is in perfect and excellent condition. I bought this when I was having trouble with my system, the problem turned out to be the thermo switch. I also have a power assisted steering rack that is in great condition. I want $200.00 for the evaporator since I paid $400.00 and never used it, and I want $300.00 for the steering rack which I also never used! I paid $600.00 for the rack. Both items came from a car with 30,000 miles. Send me an email if you are interested. Al
Dec 19, 2000 - 02:39 - From: charlie Title: anyone recognize this picture ? Message: http://www.finitemonkeys.com/malt2.jpg its a fairly large jpg, around 750k, its not one of my better ones, but its coming along..
Dec 19, 2000 - 11:11 - From: Barry Berman Title: I recognize that Message: My baby is in that picture;) Barry.
Dec 19, 2000 - 17:20 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Correct oil? Message: Give me some advice people. I read through Doug's transaxle oil change page and then I changed the tany oil today. I had a hard time finding the oil, I ended up using Mobil 1 SAE 5w/30 weight engine oil, is that correct? I also see that "Castrol TAF-X 75W/90" is also listed and there is a big difference between these two oils. Please advice. Al
Dec 19, 2000 - 18:33 - From: Doug Title: Tranny Oil Message: Al, I hope the write-up was helpful and you did not have as hard a time as I did getting the retaining bolt out! I know your dilemma about the oils and it turns out that 'engine' and 'gear' oils use a different weight system--it just so happens that 5/30 engine oil and 75/90 gear oil are equivalent weights. Lotus originally recommended the 5/30 Mobil One but now recommends the Castrol instead. I decided to rebel and used the Redline MTL oil which is used and loved by many and a common oil to our tranny when used in American GM autos. Joe S. is the resident oil guru so perhaps he will see this and add some insight.
Dec 19, 2000 - 19:27 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Correct Plugs Message: Here is my last question! I found some NGK plugs at Pep-Boys, but when I got them home I say that the markings said that they were BKR6E. On the sparkplug replacment page I noticed that it says BRK6E, did the writer switch the lettering or do I have the wrong plugs? I bought plugs for an Izuse Impulse. Al
Dec 19, 2000 - 23:17 - From: charlie Title: sparkies Message: I'd go with switched letters, I searched altavista for BRK6E and the only page that showed up was mine, BKR6E found a whole lot more.. Typo..
Dec 19, 2000 - 23:23 - From: Doug Title: Spark Plugs Message: Ever wonder what the plug code means? See http://www.lotuselancentral.com/commonparts.htm#spark
Dec 20, 2000 - 00:19 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Wrong Plugs? Message: When all else fails, just check the manuals. The correct plugs are BKR6E as stated in the owners manual. Who ever typed in the article must have switched the "K" and "R". No more questions on my end. I hope this got a few of you excited. Al
Dec 20, 2000 - 04:55 - From: Richard S Title: Re: Tranny Oil Message: Here's a reply that I got from Mobil about what alternative was available to Mobil 1 RTS 9775 5W/30: RE: Mobil 1 RTS 9775 5W/30 Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 11:42:05 +0100 From: "Hurley, Barbara T (MOBIL)" To:"'r.steele@ftel.co.uk'" The reply is that the product was withdrawn when Lotus cancelled the model. The recommended alternative, bearing in mind the requirement for a synthetic oil, is Mobil 1 0W/40. It will be marginally thinner at cold but still with adequate fluid film. At higher temps the film will be marginally thicker giving better protection. Regards Barbara Hurley Technical Help Desk hurleybt@mobil-europe-lubes.com Tel: 01908 853138 Fax: 01908 853828
Dec 20, 2000 - 05:17 - From: Richard S Title: UK Wipers update Message: The only ones at Halfords were Bosch 24" and they cost 25UKP for a pair!!! which is more expensive than Lotus, Halfords own only goes up to 23" and the required size is 600mm (23 5/8") I kept the original 91 wipers and these are now back on the car and they don't screech like the newer (95) Lotus ones. The original Trico blades have a larger blade height whereas the later ones (also Trico) have a much smaller blade height - about half. The blade height is the distance from the wiping edge to the narrow necked section that allows the blade to move from side to side. Any idea what difference the blade height makes?
Dec 20, 2000 - 09:12 - From: Paul P Title: Seat Stripdown. Message: Doug, after reading your article on installing the seat heaters I was spured on to swap my drivers seat for the passenger seat , since the drivers side is considerably more worn. However, I encountered a problem when trying to remove the seat runners (which must stay on the original side due to the seat belt buckle). I was faced with two bolts at the back of the seat, holding on the runners, and two at the front - access to the front bolts is giving me problems. Perhaps you could explain how you managed to undo these two bolts. Thanks in advance for your reply.
Dec 20, 2000 - 10:16 - From: Doug Title: seats Message: Paul, the front bolt of the runner is sideways. You have to undo the side clips of the black bottom cover with a flat screwdriver and lift it upward; then push the cushion down so you can get a socket onto the bolt. The seatbelt buckle is only held with a single bolt--perhaps you are right as I didn't switch mine. I guess if there is not another bolt hole on the other side of the seat bottom then you can not switch them. Let us know about that.
Dec 20, 2000 - 10:25 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Trany oil Message: Here is what I know on my end. I have been talking with several Lotus dealers in Texas and they are telling me to use the Mobil 1 SAE 5W/30 motor oil and not any of the heavier lubricants that are listed on the web site. The reasoning is that the engine will have to work harder to spin the gears through the thicker weights of grease, Mobil 1 synthetic has the protection that you need and the trany will not have to work as hard, keeping its temp down and better performance. I AM ONLY RELAYING WHAT I HAVE HEARD TODAY. I have also called Mobil to speak with the technicians and they have also told me to use the Mobil 1 5W/30 as a replacement for the listed RTS in the manual. HELP!!!!! Al
Dec 20, 2000 - 10:43 - From: Bill Luton Title: Oil and transmissions Message: Isuzu specifies 5W30 motor oil for that Isuzu 76 mm transmission (I prefer Valvoline or Redline MTL). Isuzu specifies motor oil as the lubricant in all the transmissions they build. We have five Isuzu cars here now and have owned Isuzu cars for thirteen years now. Each and every time that gear oil was mistakenly put into the transmission of one of these Isuzu cars, it has trashed the gears (because it is too thick to properly lubricate) and has required the replacement of almost all internal parts and a rebuild at a cost of $3,000+ USD. $3,000 mistakes make for very vivid memories. But then people keep telling me I don't know what I am talking about._ _ _Bill Luton
Dec 20, 2000 - 11:01 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Bill Message: Bill, what you are talking about is about the same thing that the technicians were telling me! I do not think you want to use the thicker weights. Al
Dec 20, 2000 - 14:57 - From: Steve P Title: We're back to tranny's again! Message: I have checked and double checked this issue with Lotus HQ UK. They have stated that the recommended oil, as fitted to the S2 Elan after the RTS was discontinued, is the Castrol Syntrax TAX-F 75W/90 as specified in the FAQ's. Bill is correct about the normal gear oil not being suitable, the Castrol specified is NOT the normal heavy gear oil, it is a very light weight oil with a similar viscocity to the original RTS, and Lotus recommend its use. No doubt the Redline is just as good. I've used this oil for over 2 years and use the car regularly on the track and have no gearbox problems. As a tip, to get better access to the speedo drive gear remove the coolant header tank (just release the retaining bolt) and the air intake hose to the throttle body. I found using a universal joint with my socket set helped to release the bolt securing the speedo drive retaining plate. I think it's a 10mm. Taping a pipe to the Castrol bottle and feeding it into the gearbox lets you go off for a quick pint while it's filling. Checking the level is much easier if you don't try and put the speedo gear back every time. I used a piece of metal bent marked up from the drive gear. Don't drop it in the tranny!!! Also make sure the gear is fully in and tightened down otherwise once finished the needle on your speedo will be bouncing up and down......best of luck.....I enjoyed the pint the most ;-)
Dec 21, 2000 - 12:51 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Smile! Message: Boys, this is a new day! I have been doing the 60Kmi service and today I have a new smile. I changed the old "Bosch" plugs with the correct NKG plugs found at Pep-boys. i also checked the timing and found that is was only at 10 degrees BTDC and changed it to 16 degrees BTDC as stated in Dougs article. Also replaced the O2 sensor. Took it out on a test drive and found notable more acceleration and performance, the engine is now as smooth as can be! The improved performance is so notable that I feel I have to mention it to all. Al
Dec 21, 2000 - 21:04 - From: Bill Luton Title: Ignition Timing Message: Be very careful setting the timing farther forward than the stock setting. The Delco computers are very sensitive about timing, and more importantly, the draconian little so-and-sos try to correct everything back to stock settings, seeing any adjustment as a failed sensor or some sort of problem to deal with. The computer will sit there and fight with itself trying to retard the timing back and has been seen to cause all sorts of idle problems, including the engine dying when the gas pedal is let up as when pulling up to a stop sign or light, the idle hovering at 2,000-3,000 RPM, and, probably the worst, revving and dropping on its own with the driver's foot off the gas pedal. These are the symptoms are epidemic with Isuzu Impulse, Stylus, and Geo Storm. They are the same symptoms as a faulty ECU, and resetting the timing back to stock is the first step in curing idle problems to eliminate the less serious possibilities before diagnosing it as a faulty ECU._ _ _If you don't see any idle problems, don't worry, but if you start seeing dying, hovering, or revving, bump the timing back some._ _ _Bill Luton
Dec 22, 2000 - 05:38 - From: Steve Title: Paint Message: For information - a while back the Americans on the site were raving on about "paint Clay" as a preparation prior to polishing. Well, was in Halfords last night and they sell this labelled as "surface cleansing bar" for 4.99UKP
Dec 22, 2000 - 15:16 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Trany lube Message: I received this from Fred Wells for Barbara Hurley Technical Help Desk Mobil Oil Co. Ltd. Great Britain: If you have obtained the Mobil 1 5W-30 I guess you are in the USA. It is certainly not marketed here in the UK. I have checked with our Automotive Engineer & he confirms that this is the correct product for the application. Original question:I have a 1991 Lotus Elan, the manual recommends using Mobil 1 RTS 9775 5W/30 for the transaxle, I can not find this anywhere and I was told that the SAE 5W/30 Mobil One Synthetic is the same thing. I have refilled my trany and I want to know if what I have substituted is really the same thing and if it will work. Please advice.
Dec 22, 2000 - 16:01 - From: charlie wallace Title: sparkyplug typo - doc f Message: yeah like i said doc, it was a typo, and I fixed it, no undue excitement over it here. I can tell you for sure that mobil 1 5w/30 doesn't work in the engine =) at least it doesnt for long
Dec 23, 2000 - 01:48 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Charlie Message: Charlie, I did not see that it was you who wrote the article and I did not see your first reply to my question on the plugs, sorry. Thanks for you reply to my question but know could you explain your experience with the Mobil 1? Are you talking about putting it in the trany or engine?
Dec 23, 2000 - 16:04 - From: charlie Title: mobil 1 5w/30 Message: bad in the engine, it leaks out and generates a lot of smoke at about 135mph . don't try this at home kids..
Dec 23, 2000 - 19:49 - From: George Title: Oil...and spark plugs. Message: Charlie.... smoking around 135.... Jeezzzz... You do that daily? ;-) I like the oil I use though, Synthec 5w/50. Works great. By the way guys, I saw an advertisment on the new Car & Driver about a new type of spark plugs. It's some ultra sonic spark plug that claims to increase mileage and horsepower by 20%... Anyone tried it yet or should I be the new lab mouse for this? :-)
Dec 23, 2000 - 22:30 - From: charlie Title: yup Message: I accidently put 5w/30 mobil 1 in the engine, i wasn't paying attention when i bought it, it was in the wrong box, and i didn't notice the cap colour. Anyway i was going up the 5 not long after, and about 135 thick grey smoke started to pour out the exhaust. I stopped at the next service station and set fire to my engine =) and no i'm not joking,.. anyway i took out all the oil and replaced it with 30w and it was fine again, once the residual oil had burned off, which takes a while with synthetics... spent a few hours as a gross polluter!
Dec 26, 2000 - 07:01 - From: Alan Title: Lotus Collectables Book Message: If you're not aware of this book it is just released by William Taylor.the guy who put together the big yellow Lotus book a couple of years ago.Same format,it covers memorabilia,model kits,press releases etc by model type.Four pages on the M100,looks very accurate in content as I think M100 material was quite limited. Bit pricey at around 40 UKP if you're only interested in the M100 but a superb book if you're a Lotus fan in general. Brilliant illustrations of model cars ,many complete with original boxes plus rare literature etc. The cover says'The complete collection of Lotus memorabilia' which is probably a bit overstated as I know of lots of die-cast and a few plastic models which aren't shown,but nevertheless a superb effort by the author.Definitely worth a Christmas present to yourself!Published by Coterie Press Ltd London.
Dec 26, 2000 - 15:14 - From: Rod Title: Lotus Collectables Book Message: Thanks for the book tip Alan, any tips for best bookshops to find it in, here in the UK ?
Dec 26, 2000 - 18:16 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Engine Message: Do any of you know for sure if the Izusu engine that is used in the Elan is IDENTICAL to the Izusu Impulse motor? or did Lotus tear it down and add their own components? I am asking because I found an Izusu Impulse Turbo motor with less than 2000 mi on it. It shines like new! let me know fellows. Al
Dec 26, 2000 - 19:47 - From: George Title: Doc Message: I belive that Lotus did do a little work on the engine. The key word here being "little." If I remember correctly, the motor mount is a little different as well as something to do with the throttle. I may be wrong on the throttle though... Lotus too the Impulse engine and made it a little smotther and torquier at lower RPM if I recall correctly. There isn't really not that much differnce except. 2000 miles on that motor? I say get it, and do a little side by side comparison. If there are parts you don't see on the Impulse engine, strip it from the Elan engine and put it on... :-)
Dec 26, 2000 - 20:09 - From: Bill Luton Title: Engine Message: Lotus was subcontracted to do suspension work for Isuzu when the 1.6 liter DOHC engine was being developped. Some of the cars Lotus would have done that suspension work on would have been 1987 and 1988 model Geminis with that same engine. These were not sold in the US. The closest would have been the 89 I-Mark RS, a non-turbo version. Lotus claims to have become involved with the design of the engine which they claim was in prototype form when they became involved through GM. Others will claim that the engine was complete and that Lotus took whatever was on the shelf. The facts lie somewhere between the two. Isuzu had working engines and Lotus lent some technical assistance to the design work and refinement of the design. In addition, Isuzu is not averse to providing a corporate customer with features and production changes that the customer requests. It is rather obvious that Isuzu did this with the engines supplied to Lotus and that Lotus selected details in those engines that were different from their main line product sold under their own name. In addition, it appears that Isuzu made changes to the engine design they used in their own cars after Lotus set its specs in stone. It is for these reasons that the Elan engine would be most closely related to the 88 Gemini JT190 DOHC Turbo, sold only in Japan, the next closest relation would be the 89 I-Mark RS, a non-turbo. The 91 Impulse RS Turbo engine would substitute, but would not be acceptable for concours type inspection because of a few detail differences._ _ _Bill Luton
Dec 26, 2000 - 20:14 - From: Doc Fizzix Title: Engine Message: Thanks for your information on the engine. I can tell you that I would be getting it for under $1000.00 dollars and it would be nice to have a spare. I know that the oil pan and some of the brackets are different but I have been told that the engine is in every other way the same. I really want to make sure first. Al
Dec 27, 2000 - 01:08 - From: randy maurer Title: engine Message: I recently read the book "lotus elan" by mark hughes. Here is the stuff I can quickly find in it. the Isuzu-Lotus engine was coded 4EX1. There was the required re-mounting of the turbo. The throttle body was different on the Elan. There was a mod made to the engine mounts for two reasons. The standard rear engine mounts would not hold up under extreme torque (like any of us would do that) so there is a torque control arm bolted to the back of the engin and there is a collapsible spacer in the engine mounts for frontal collision purposes. I seem to recall there was a Lotus designed fuel management/ fuel injection difference. There was also a "boss" at the front of the engine or transmission that was removed for additional clearance per Lotus' request.
Dec 27, 2000 - 06:26 - From: Ian H Title: Time takes it toll Message: The time has arrived where a respray is now becoming a necessity as virtually all of my body Panels have blemishes where the Gel coat has come away from the paintwork, The bonnet/hood look as if it has droplets of rain on it which is just the gel coat (also suffering from the notorious pinking). Has anyone had there car resprayed in the UK and have any recommendations etc. Also I have recently replaced my entire soft top with a secondhand replacement. It cost £300 and the top itself is in excellent condition althoguh some of the seals are worn but I have replaced these with the ones from my old soft top which are OK. I managed to remove and fit the new roof within two hours, i could not beleive how easy it was. I got the soft top from www.douglasvalley.co.uk who were very helpful. I actually went up to see them as they originally wanted £450 for the soft top so it was worth the visit. They have got a couple of Elans in if anyone needs any hard to get part. PS this was the only place I could get my rear caliper from aswell. Has anyone had a test drive in the new Elise, from what I have seen it looks superb. I am saving my pennies, but I don't really want to get rid of my Elan especailly with the depreciation that has took hold. Cheers Ian.
Dec 27, 2000 - 12:10 - From: Rod Title: Time takes it toll Message: I believe Alan (UK) had nice pictures of an M100 respray ( Green ), he mentioned a price to me, but have forgoten it - ALAN you reading this !??? I am also in the market for a respray and some minor body work sorting, however wonder if its worth the investment. Don't think I could be convinced to get an Elise II, however the Exige certainly was on my list to Santa.
Dec 27, 2000 - 16:25 - From: Alan Title: Collectables book & paint query Message: Rod, I got the Lotus Collectables book direct from Coterie Press tel 0207 6368007.The paintjob query is a bit harder to answer,it was the car of a guy in the South who I bought a spare set of M100 wheels from.Finish was superb and he'd had the rear light and no. plate surrounds colour-coded with the Elan legend handpainted in the Elise style.Looked very effective but a bit radical for me. I'll try and dig out the details,give me a day or two. PS If you've got the patience the book will certainly be on sale at Donington Festival in March.
Dec 28, 2000 - 08:15 - From: Rod Title: Collectables book & paint query Message: Thanks Alan, I will certainly be at Donnington, so will look for the book there. See if you can dig out the details on the green paint job. I am not interested in the extra bits, just the costs for a respray back to standard and if the guy with the green M100 is happy with the job.
Dec 28, 2000 - 08:45 - From: Steve P Title: Esprit? Message: The value of the Elan & Esprit is sinking fast, given the interest in the Elise, Elise II & forthcoming M250. Maybe it's time to look at a used Esprit? Has anyone on this board driven a V8? They certainly go like rockets but don't have the discrete 'not me' look of the Elan which it very appealing given the ferrocity of the police around me ;-) Word from drivers is that the Elise II feels very similar to the Elise I, no surprises here...but the UK press have gone mad over it and reckon it's easily the best handling car in its class. I wouldn't pay over £23k for a car with only 120BHP :-)
Dec 28, 2000 - 13:08 - From: Rod Title: Esprit? Message: Have driven a V8 on track and road ( day organised by my nice Lotus dealer ), certainly has got power, and nice on the track - Brands - however road driving was hard - its "feels" really big, hard to position on the road and not great visability. The Exige with 190bhp, looks like it could provide an entertaining drive - not got my hands on one yet.
Dec 28, 2000 - 13:46 - From: Alan Title: Paintwork specialists Message: Rod, I spoke to the guy who had the superb paintjob done on his car.Although the paint is brilliant the rest of his experience with the Co wasn't[eg bits broken and not mentioned at the time] so I can't recommend them unfortunately. If anyone doesn't mind the trek up to North Yorks I can fully recommend the place that repaired and painted my 1970 Elan S4 after a 'minor' accident.ie new front end,chassis,full repaint and a roof chop job.That was 4 years ago and it still looks like new.The place is Pool Lane Classics between York and Harrogate, tel 01423 330591 or www.poollaneclassics.com Fortunately the M100 hasn't needed any paint yet but I'll be taking it there when it does.
Dec 28, 2000 - 18:15 - From: Rod Title: Painwork Specialists - UK Message: Thanks Alan. I will start looking into paint places in the spring, mine has a couple of minor carpark dents, and marks, but more importantly the clearcoat is lifting in many places. I wonder if other people have clearcoat problems ?
Dec 29, 2000 - 03:23 - From: Andy Y Title: Clearcoat probs Message: The Silver is vulnerable to the elements too. I have a few imperfections w/ the clearcoat on the hood and spoiler. I'll probably end up taking a week off work sometime in Jan. for a respray. It's a lot of work, but I can't imagine trusting anyone else to do a detailed job as 'the owner'. Overspray and bad prep work can destroy a car! I'm talking about going into fine detail from: Removing all the trim from the outer side windows/Side mirrors/Pop-up headlamps/Spoiler/Key holes (door/trunk)/Rear lights etc...I'm considering the same color -- PPG 2 stage paint w/ a xtra coats of clear! I'll do a write up if anyones interested.
Dec 29, 2000 - 11:39 - From: Ian Title: Respray Message: Chalk up another interested party in a respray. Unfortunately also a new front spoiler and rubber spoiler lip due to a slight incidient involving me, my car, the recent icy roads and a bollard. Is it not a good idea to take it to a lotus dealer for such work assuming you dont particularly mind the expense? or is best left to a respray specialist?
Dec 30, 2000 - 04:54 - From: Rod Title: Respray Message: Some of the UK Lotus dealers "claim" some sort of official accident repair status. Peter Smith Sports cars springs to mind as one. However a minor repair / respray they did to mine a few years ago is the source of my clearcoat problems now. Hence I am looking for a paintwork specialist place. Would be nice to be able to have a recomendation from a happy customer or see some work they had already done.
Dec 31, 2000 - 13:39 - From: Rod Title: Happy New . . . . Message: Just wanted to take the chance to wish all the friends I have made here a Happy New Year.
Dec 31, 2000 - 14:19 - From: dimitri Title: Happy New Year Message: Happy New Year to all of you